I've been handing out Shapeoko-made engraved business cards for ages now. I do a batch of 20-30 every year or so, and give them to execs or accounts I want to really hold onto my card. I either get, "Wow! That's so cool!" or "Wow..... you have a lot of margin in your products don't you...." But I love it! Did the whole project in Fusion360 with Inkscape, and used just some line-art. Then had Fusion360 "fill-in" with passes at 45 degrees and -45 degrees. Putting the GCP logo on my card (for a diagram on the back, we connect w/GCP) was cool since it's 3 colors. I did one color with the entire cross hatch pattern, then did one color with 45 degree etches and the other color with -45 degree etches. Really looks fantastic.
@@jasonlovi8745 considering the amount of stuff I've learned from the Winston and the Carbide 3D gang over the years, I think they get a pass on this one. 😅
I mentioned these type of bits on a Facebook page a while back and knew they'd take off. A company local to me makes sliderobes and have a lot of waste mirror. I don't have a cnc but knew that with a drag bit and the mirror which I could get for free I'd be able to mess around with it whenever I get a machine. With my anxiety and depression though, I keep doubting my abilities and haven't bought one. I know, I need a good kick up the rear end.
I just watched winston drag video yesterday. It actually game me my idea for my sisters wedding present. Then after some of yours i will have to improve on it with a frame now
The first thing I used my MC Etcher bits on was my Zippo. Been using Zippos well over 20 years and if you got one that wouldn't light, it could be as simple as the wick needing a slight adjustment. They are proven and have life time warranties.
Happy to hear you put MC to work. I'd love to see what you did on the Zippo. Yes, I did later adjust the lighter. The main problem was the flint wheel wouldn't really turn. After a bit of bending things were restored to working order. It was fun to throw it across the room first. The reactions did prove how much people love Zippo.
I watched these videos and ended up buying a bit. I thought that the noise level would be better because the spindles off. Well, to my surprise, it never occurred to me that drag engraving glass might be louder than the spindle lol. All in all, amazing tool, made my brothers computer case look cool and he loves it.
Hey man you should be engraving in a flood bath WAY quieter and cleaner cuts. Basically just a clamp your stock in a big tub zero it out like normal an fill the tub before you send it.
Ok, you sold me on this bit with the Great Space Coaster and X-Wing fighter. I just finished an engraved project of 30 pieces on lexan with v-carving, and had to deal with gunked up material to clean out. I think this etcher will do much better.
How deep can a drag tip produce in yellow brass ? I need a result that does not wear away on a keyring jostling around. Currently, using hand stamps and a hammer. Rotary engraving would be fine if fast enough.
Great video. What kind of tile was before the glass tile? Where did you buy it? I have used Black granite before. I really like the contrast on the tile you showed before the glass tile.
@@carbide3d I apologize for not explaining further. I understand that the point of the bit is to scratch the surface but when it’s filling in an area, I would like there to be no definitive lines. If I can send a photo of some of my results, you’d know right away what I’m trying to describe. It’s hard to put into words. 😅
Hey Raven The 90° tended to be successful on the harder materials. Granite and other stone type applications. We use the 120° more often, but there are times where a second pass is required. Those situations are where the 90° could fair better. Remember there’s no substitute for experience and experimentation. And it’s fun. Run a small design with the 90° directly beside the same design with the 120°, compare the results and then decide what to use for the full project.
@@carbide3d Thanks a lot I just received it from you! I wanted to engrave (matte, semi rough) High Pressure Laminate, any advice on feed and speed and which degree to use? I'm worried I might damage the tip as it will drag pretty rough of a surface.
Chris. If you look in the tool library under “Carbide3D-Any-Any” and then “Endmills” you’ll find both MC Etchers pre-entered. You can create your own new “Library” and copy the MC Etcher bits into that library. Over at My.Carbide3D.com inside the “Create Basics” Unit, you’ll find video #11 “Tool Libraries + Tooling”. That may be of help to you.
hi, I have carbide create free for a year version, running on a windows PC, but I don`t see the engrave toolpath feature, do I need to upgrade for this feature, many thanks for your excellent video`s.
This is like kismet -- I am working on a design for brass coins I'm going to machine to give to my kids' teachers as a thank you for the crazy year, and I'm going to engrave text on them. I'm using my big, non carbide hybrid servo CNC (I know my nomad is getting sad). I see the recommendation is 0.4mm depth? So recommendation is to use the 120? Any tips on how to do this type of engraving in fusion, I have the design done in fusion, and I was just going to use the trace function for single line fonts, but this etching stuff is really looking cool.
I'd go 120. Far less (to none all) of a burr. Winston used Fusion for his video. Trace is the function. On the computer engraving, I used .127mm DOC / with my zero just touching the surface. This gave me enough spring compression and raised zero burr. You're going to have to test it out. Be sure and post the finished project on the forum. I'm sure people are all for a special teacher gift after this year of mayhem.
You can simply tell the machine it has a 501 PCB Mill and then draw in the infill. Tool 501 PCB / Depth of cut should be set to .06" / Use No Offset / Draw in any vector lines you want for infill. It just takes a bit more drawing to create your infill. Super easy if you are coming over from Inkscape or Illustrator with an SVG. There you can add whatever infill you want via clipping masks.
@@carbide3d Thank you for that, I'll give it a try today. I really think you should have made that clear in the video, either by pointing out that it's a pro feature or how to do it in the free version. It was strongly implied that it was a standard feature of Carbide Create, regardless of version.
Thanks for the project ideas! Great video. Please tell me you're planing on making the carbide 3d shirt for sale?! (Didn't see on website, did I miss it?)
Try putting lighter fluid in the zippo. other than that I am trying myself to get into the drag bit I got one I just bought I’m trying to learn the best way to do imaging I’m not a fan of the lines you get it’s almost like a multiple pass on a router I would rather have one line or a fiilled in space then three lines and half a millimeter apart from each other
I've been enjoying (and learning from) your content, and if you're up for a request, I suspect I am not alone in wanting to know how to use a CnC to score and cut custom cardboard inserts for packaging. As someone starting a business with several new products in different sizes, the ability to create custom cardboard trays and inserts for my shipping and retail boxes would be tremendously useful. This is one of the more interesting videos I've found on the subject... and I bet Carbide 3D could knock this out of the park: th-cam.com/video/yBv6SBz82gE/w-d-xo.html
I've been handing out Shapeoko-made engraved business cards for ages now. I do a batch of 20-30 every year or so, and give them to execs or accounts I want to really hold onto my card. I either get, "Wow! That's so cool!" or "Wow..... you have a lot of margin in your products don't you...."
But I love it! Did the whole project in Fusion360 with Inkscape, and used just some line-art. Then had Fusion360 "fill-in" with passes at 45 degrees and -45 degrees. Putting the GCP logo on my card (for a diagram on the back, we connect w/GCP) was cool since it's 3 colors. I did one color with the entire cross hatch pattern, then did one color with 45 degree etches and the other color with -45 degree etches. Really looks fantastic.
Enjoyed the video - shows a lot of great uses and attempts of the bit that we will probably try on our own. Your attitude about them all is great!
Zippo needs to be filled with fluid before you light it.
Great video.
That is true.
@@carbide3d oh dear
Lol, you’d think that it’d be common sense.
@@jasonlovi8745 considering the amount of stuff I've learned from the Winston and the Carbide 3D gang over the years, I think they get a pass on this one. 😅
I mentioned these type of bits on a Facebook page a while back and knew they'd take off. A company local to me makes sliderobes and have a lot of waste mirror. I don't have a cnc but knew that with a drag bit and the mirror which I could get for free I'd be able to mess around with it whenever I get a machine. With my anxiety and depression though, I keep doubting my abilities and haven't bought one. I know, I need a good kick up the rear end.
I just watched winston drag video yesterday. It actually game me my idea for my sisters wedding present. Then after some of yours i will have to improve on it with a frame now
The first thing I used my MC Etcher bits on was my Zippo. Been using Zippos well over 20 years and if you got one that wouldn't light, it could be as simple as the wick needing a slight adjustment. They are proven and have life time warranties.
Happy to hear you put MC to work. I'd love to see what you did on the Zippo.
Yes, I did later adjust the lighter. The main problem was the flint wheel wouldn't really turn. After a bit of bending things were restored to working order. It was fun to throw it across the room first. The reactions did prove how much people love Zippo.
@@carbide3d Roll the wheel in the other direction a few times whenever you put a new flint in to break it in.
I watched these videos and ended up buying a bit. I thought that the noise level would be better because the spindles off. Well, to my surprise, it never occurred to me that drag engraving glass might be louder than the spindle lol. All in all, amazing tool, made my brothers computer case look cool and he loves it.
Mine is not loud at all. That's strange that yours is so loud.
Hey man you should be engraving in a flood bath WAY quieter and cleaner cuts. Basically just a clamp your stock in a big tub zero it out like normal an fill the tub before you send it.
Ok, you sold me on this bit with the Great Space Coaster and X-Wing fighter. I just finished an engraved project of 30 pieces on lexan with v-carving, and had to deal with gunked up material to clean out. I think this etcher will do much better.
How to setup ( diameter, feed, depth of cut)the drag engrave diamond tool in vector aspire.
They're finally back in stock!!!!
can't wait to try this!!!
does the drag functions showed here work for a drag knife rotating bit project?
can you use a 4th axis rotary for etching a drinking glass
How deep can a drag tip produce in yellow brass ? I need a result that does not wear away on a keyring jostling around. Currently, using hand stamps and a hammer. Rotary engraving would be fine if fast enough.
We use the 120° and 90° on brass all the time. The markings will not wear away. I carry a brass key ring, marked with the 120°, full time.
Show us how to setup each material in carbide create.
Hmm ceramic tile, great idea!
Will it work with carbon fiber?
Great video. What kind of tile was before the glass tile? Where did you buy it? I have used Black granite before. I really like the contrast on the tile you showed before the glass tile.
It actually appears in the video, at 3:29, on the receipt. Alamosa Grey SKU:1293639 at Lowes. $0.49 each
@@carbide3d Thanks for the reply. I'm going to go take a look at that tile. I really like the contrast.
How much depth can you get with a granite tile?
The depth is negligible. Remember these bits are displacing material, not cutting it. Think of it as scoring or scratching the surface.
@@carbide3d is it possible to run enough passes to get at least .5mm/.02inch of depth?
.5mm is not achievable.
Which one is perfect for engraving aluminum 90 or 120 and how much deep can give maximum. I am so excited to buy this one.
I prefer the results with the 120 on aluminum. One of my favorite tools.
How do you get it to scratch the surface without leaving definitive lines? Whenever I use my drag bit, it leaves lines.
Trevor, I’m not sure what your question is. Drag engravers are supposed to leave lines. What are you working on?
@@carbide3d I apologize for not explaining further. I understand that the point of the bit is to scratch the surface but when it’s filling in an area, I would like there to be no definitive lines. If I can send a photo of some of my results, you’d know right away what I’m trying to describe. It’s hard to put into words. 😅
Send it via our Instagram Direct Message.
@@carbide3d ok, will do. It will come from Bald Guy Woodworks 👊😊
this guy reminds me of someone off an info commercial. " BUT WAIT GUYS, THERE'S MORE! "
Can this be used with the generic cncs?
It is a bit, so yes. But, you should also grab a Shapeoko or Nomad😉
@@carbide3d maybe when I graduate lol.
Of age....The Great Space Coast was a fun show.
How long does this bit last? how many uses?
It all depends on the surface and length of program. Ceramics will wear the tool more quickly than acrylic.
It would be great to know which degree bit you used for each material :(
Hey Raven
The 90° tended to be successful on the harder materials. Granite and other stone type applications. We use the 120° more often, but there are times where a second pass is required. Those situations are where the 90° could fair better.
Remember there’s no substitute for experience and experimentation. And it’s fun. Run a small design with the 90° directly beside the same design with the 120°, compare the results and then decide what to use for the full project.
@@carbide3d Thanks a lot I just received it from you! I wanted to engrave (matte, semi rough) High Pressure Laminate, any advice on feed and speed and which degree to use? I'm worried I might damage the tip as it will drag pretty rough of a surface.
how do i update my carbide create to the newest version?
Grab the latest from carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/
So, the lighter that doesn't even light. Did you add lighter fluid to it?
Yes. The wick was the issue. Works fine now
how do we set up a drag bit in CC for feeds and speeds etc?
Chris. If you look in the tool library under “Carbide3D-Any-Any” and then “Endmills” you’ll find both MC Etchers pre-entered.
You can create your own new “Library” and copy the MC Etcher bits into that library.
Over at My.Carbide3D.com inside the “Create Basics” Unit, you’ll find video #11 “Tool Libraries + Tooling”. That may be of help to you.
@@carbide3d thank you
I think laser etching is best for finer lines and work.
Do you have the link for those businesscards?
Sure thing: Thick Green Aluminum Metal... www.amazon.com/dp/B08TMFC3PX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
hi, I have carbide create free for a year version, running on a windows PC, but I don`t see the engrave toolpath feature, do I need to upgrade for this feature, many thanks for your excellent video`s.
Yes, the engrave tool path is located in the ever improving "Pro" version of the software.
This is like kismet -- I am working on a design for brass coins I'm going to machine to give to my kids' teachers as a thank you for the crazy year, and I'm going to engrave text on them. I'm using my big, non carbide hybrid servo CNC (I know my nomad is getting sad). I see the recommendation is 0.4mm depth? So recommendation is to use the 120? Any tips on how to do this type of engraving in fusion, I have the design done in fusion, and I was just going to use the trace function for single line fonts, but this etching stuff is really looking cool.
I'd go 120. Far less (to none all) of a burr. Winston used Fusion for his video. Trace is the function. On the computer engraving, I used .127mm DOC / with my zero just touching the surface. This gave me enough spring compression and raised zero burr. You're going to have to test it out. Be sure and post the finished project on the forum. I'm sure people are all for a special teacher gift after this year of mayhem.
Is the cross hatching affect naturally created by the pocketing operation or is there something you have to do to make that happen?
In VCarve, this is the software I use with my Shark HD520, the cross hatching is an option when setting up the engraving tool path.
Be aware this feature is only for the PRO version of Carbide Create, not the free version. Would have been great to know before I bought the bits...
there is a free trial version of pro you can get
@@BradZipprich That you can't export gcode from, not very useful. Thanks for looking into it though.
You can simply tell the machine it has a 501 PCB Mill and then draw in the infill. Tool 501 PCB / Depth of cut should be set to .06" / Use No Offset / Draw in any vector lines you want for infill. It just takes a bit more drawing to create your infill. Super easy if you are coming over from Inkscape or Illustrator with an SVG. There you can add whatever infill you want via clipping masks.
@@carbide3d Thank you for that, I'll give it a try today. I really think you should have made that clear in the video, either by pointing out that it's a pro feature or how to do it in the free version. It was strongly implied that it was a standard feature of Carbide Create, regardless of version.
What version has the engrave option? I dont see it.
You'll need build 530 or later with a Pro license. carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/
Thanks for the project ideas!
Great video.
Please tell me you're planing on making the carbide 3d shirt for sale?! (Didn't see on website, did I miss it?)
Is it possible to engrave a mirror?
Absolutely
How much?
Can you provide links to the blanks you recommend for Etcher carving? I want to do a bunch for my team!
Which blanks? The business cards?
@@carbide3d Yes. Sorry I was not more descriptive.
Here you go. Several colors available: www.amazon.com/dp/B08TMFC3PX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
Try putting lighter fluid in the zippo. other than that I am trying myself to get into the drag bit I got one I just bought I’m trying to learn the best way to do imaging I’m not a fan of the lines you get it’s almost like a multiple pass on a router I would rather have one line or a fiilled in space then three lines and half a millimeter apart from each other
You have to put lighter fluid in the Zippo before it will light. They don’t come filled when new.
and sometimes a flint. but definitely lighter fluid. im sure it was a joke but i thought the same thing lol
I just wonder if he fell into the 1% chance of trying to light a zippo lighter out of the box, not knowing that you have to manually fill them up.
it was a flint issue apparently
Kind of came to this video to see how it would do on a zippo aka the thing most people would like to engrave
interesting, i bought 4 of your clamps they work alright, just really really small compared to what i pictured them being. but this looks nice
The green ones? I like them. And don’t have to worry too much if they accidentally get bit by the router.
@@Surannhealz the tiger claw clamps. They are just really small. Only slightly larger then the t slot they go atop of.
past Kevin: try rub 'n buff!
Sold out already?? This video just posted.
They are back in the store. You should be all set.
WHO CAN DO A HANDSTAND, AND READ EVERYTHING ON THE NEWSSTAND?
SPEED READER, SPEED READER!!!
Great product but it feels like I'm being sold a Sham Wow.
I do not disagree, but their expertise is in making cool machines. Sales is a different specialty.
@@SorobanWorld Fully, I didn't mean it disrespectfully. I bought it and love it. It's just a great over the top presentation :D
"viking tree" lol
No Gnews is good Gnews... With Gary Gnu.
Exactly
Kevin "Bacon" Barnett
You have to add fuel to your zippo
I've been enjoying (and learning from) your content, and if you're up for a request, I suspect I am not alone in wanting to know how to use a CnC to score and cut custom cardboard inserts for packaging. As someone starting a business with several new products in different sizes, the ability to create custom cardboard trays and inserts for my shipping and retail boxes would be tremendously useful.
This is one of the more interesting videos I've found on the subject... and I bet Carbide 3D could knock this out of the park: th-cam.com/video/yBv6SBz82gE/w-d-xo.html
I will look into it Mason.