Good job Paw Paw! I had a similar experience with brass plates. Same situation with the middle of the plate deflecting. I too taped the edges down to the spoil board. In addition to that, I shimmed the middle of the plate on the underside with a couple layers of tape. This helped in overcoming the space created by the rolled edges. Keep on keeping on!!!!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this project. A couple of thoughts popped into my as I was watching and listening. I have not done this at all, so these are only in theory thoughts... Could you have created a pocket to hold the plate in place along with the tape method, but creating a v groove around the inside perimeter of the pocket to allow the rounded over edge to sit in, kinda like a trough, thinking this would then allow the brass plate to be supported in the mid section thus resolving the deflection? Just some thoughts is all. Thanks again, always love your insights, etc. Have an awesome week.
Doing these kinds of projects at home, when your tolerances need to be tight, can be really challenging. I've been programming CNC machines professional for the past 2 decades, but I had it so much easier because I would use a vacuum table to hold parts down. It would pull a vacuum through low density spoil board (loosely pressed MDF) or fixtures. While I had more than my share of parts that would give me grief, you make me realize how spoiled I was. Throw the part up there, pull the vacuum and it would flatten your part right out. I have used double stick tape on small parts though and remove with a metal scraper. I speak in the past because I have been doing mostly sheet metal and copper tubing design work lately and programs for it. I remember working in wood saying, "I wish I worked in metal so I don't have to deal with grain direction", only to get into sheet metal and realize there is grain direction with that too, though not as cumbersome. LOL Great job!
A diamond drag bit will compensate for the differences in height. You can get a pair of them (120 and 90 degrees) for about $75 from Carbide 3D. I've used them on acrylic, aluminum, glass, and stone.
Thank you for sharing. You just never know what you will run across, from differences in the depth of the brass and the was it was manufactured. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia.
Wonder if using two sided tape on back would help with taking up some of the flex? Could put it down on waste board enough to make up for curved edges. Not as alternative to hold down. Would still tape down around edges.
Another suggestion that would also speed up the process, small vacuum pads to hold the plates down. Sticky tape is fine for single stuff, vacuum much better for batching.
![How To Engrave Glass On a CNC Router [With A Drag Bit], Glass Etching](/img/n.gif)
You are as young as you think you are! You are a pleasure to follow, and you are a fountain of information for all of us Thank you!
You are so welcome! lol, I must say my mind is still young but the body is rebelling and telling the mind that I’m crazy.
Good job Paw Paw! I had a similar experience with brass plates. Same situation with the middle of the plate deflecting. I too taped the edges down to the spoil board. In addition to that, I shimmed the middle of the plate on the underside with a couple layers of tape. This helped in overcoming the space created by the rolled edges. Keep on keeping on!!!!
Awesome! I actually thought of that as well. Great idea!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this project. A couple of thoughts popped into my as I was watching and listening. I have not done this at all, so these are only in theory thoughts... Could you have created a pocket to hold the plate in place along with the tape method, but creating a v groove around the inside perimeter of the pocket to allow the rounded over edge to sit in, kinda like a trough, thinking this would then allow the brass plate to be supported in the mid section thus resolving the deflection? Just some thoughts is all. Thanks again, always love your insights, etc. Have an awesome week.
Doing these kinds of projects at home, when your tolerances need to be tight, can be really challenging. I've been programming CNC machines professional for the past 2 decades, but I had it so much easier because I would use a vacuum table to hold parts down. It would pull a vacuum through low density spoil board (loosely pressed MDF) or fixtures. While I had more than my share of parts that would give me grief, you make me realize how spoiled I was. Throw the part up there, pull the vacuum and it would flatten your part right out. I have used double stick tape on small parts though and remove with a metal scraper.
I speak in the past because I have been doing mostly sheet metal and copper tubing design work lately and programs for it. I remember working in wood saying, "I wish I worked in metal so I don't have to deal with grain direction", only to get into sheet metal and realize there is grain direction with that too, though not as cumbersome. LOL Great job!
A diamond drag bit will compensate for the differences in height. You can get a pair of them (120 and 90 degrees) for about $75 from Carbide 3D. I've used them on acrylic, aluminum, glass, and stone.
Awesome! Thank you very much
Thank you for sharing. You just never know what you will run across, from differences in the depth of the brass and the was it was manufactured. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia.
Mind giving the speeds and feeds you were using while cutting?
Thank you Dave.
Awesome. Love people helping people.
You can use a small stone to debur the edges, and a carbide bit
Great idea. Thanks
Wonder if using two sided tape on back would help with taking up some of the flex? Could put it down on waste board enough to make up for curved edges. Not as alternative to hold down. Would still tape down around edges.
Great idea, that certainly may work
Any ideas on what bit works best for engraving lettering?
A diamond engraving bit is actually the best
Another suggestion that would also speed up the process, small vacuum pads to hold the plates down. Sticky tape is fine for single stuff, vacuum much better for batching.
Excellent idea. Thank you very much
Did u have to buy a new bit afterwards, or did it last for a while?
I went through several bits
Do you have a link to the brass plates??
Thanks, Dave
They were given to me to do the project. Do not have a link
Very helpful thanks
You're welcome!
I think that if you use 4 screws at the corners you will solve the fixing better. thanks for sharing the video
Thank you for your suggestion.
Hi. You started with the XE-PRO 8040 and ended with another machine. Problems ?
No, as stated wanted to show two different size CNC machines doing very small detailed projects
Muy buena información 🎉
Thank you very much
How many bits did you end up using total?
I believe it was seven. I used the bits that came with the FOXAlien. They are not the best bits to begin with.
Might have been better idea to recess the block to take yhe brass plate, then tape or light clsmps to hold the plate in situ
Yes, great idea, thanks
Making a shallow pocket in your waste board sized to contain the brass plates would also help to secure the work pieces.
Great idea, thank you very much