It is a real pity that a small metal part broke off because you did a perfect fix, but that is the risk in works like that. However, you pulled out almost maximum from that situation and made one more great tutorial! Thank you Harvey, keep uploading, cheers...
Thanks, yes it was a shame, but it was my first attempt at it and at least others can now take heed lest he fall (corinthians 10:12) from my bodgery :-)
Excellent, keep them coming, I love this kind of mods. Now if there were a way of tightening the door locks so the doors wouldn't rattle over bumps, or to better secure the armrests in the doors when the little pegs and tags are worn that'd be awesome.
@@HatBoyHarvey well, they don't rattle as such, they are tight, but they sort of creak going over bumps. My guess is that the door seals are worn, letting the doors move ever so slightly, fractions of a millimetre even. When movement is transferred to the door trim panels x4, that's where the symphony begins.
Thank you very much for all the video clips you've published. Your work helped me a lot. Please make the next video replace the bad Brake Booster servo. Thank you so much in advance for the greeting from Croatia
@@HatBoyHarvey Hello! The vacuum tubes are as correct as the vacuum pump (when I put my finger on the vacuum, the hose that connects to the servo booster senses the pullout inside). The brake pedal is hard and needs to be pressed much harder for the brake to operate. When the pedal brake is activated, a short sound like SSSSS can be heard in the cab. I took off the hose that goes from the irreversible valve to the servo booster brakes, and instead of the vacuum bowel, I connected the outer hose through which I tried to blow air but resisted. My assistant, with the engine of the car extinguished, pressed a pedal of brake and then the resistance to blowing air stopped, and there was a strong blow in the cabin as I blew through the hose. After he stopped pressing the brake again, I felt resistance when blowing,
I already did it last week and it looks like it will work fine. I opened those little metal pieces less than you, just so I could separate the two parts of the door arrester. During the bending, I noticed that one metal piece looked almost broken, so I was careful not to break it completely (I used just pliers to open these 4 metal pieces ). Maybe there is less material, so poeple wont try to fix these door arresters :)
Hi, But I'd like to ask when the video for the trunk lighting will be released Another thing is when I open the trunk I have only 0.22V there and sometimes 7.50V-8.20V I am also interested in why? .. because my flashlight is charged to 13.09V I tested the light under current on a flashlight and it works beautifully. Where will the problem be? Its propably my problem:( Thanks for this video helped
Great video. Have a doubt I have a CBZB 1.2 tsi engine. While do fuel filter replacement the seller gave me a 4 bar fileter insted of 6.6 bar filer. The stock one is 6.6 bar. The seller as many online sources says 4 bar is compatible. My engine is stock. What's your opinion on putting 4 bar one. At present I am using 4 bar one. Seems ok to me. 6.6 bar OEM one seems a bit hard to find in my country. 4 bar one is also OEM.
Are you saying the one previously fitted on the car is 6.6 bar when you bought it? If engine is rated at 4 bar fuel pressure at the filter you should use that as higher pressure will only cause long term problems with stuff wearing out as the engine doesn't like it and will find it hard to compensate (richer fuelling). Premature pump failure and injector issues will ensue.
@@HatBoyHarvey Yes the last VW service center fitted one was 6.6 bar. The one i have with me now is 4 bar. Guess I will use it for few months then when giving car to service center will ask them to change it.
Interesting, on my 2008 Roomster, which is basically a Fabia in 'different clothes', the fixed, single point end is on the pillar, and the bit that moves with the 2 bolts is in the door, but all looks identical otherwise. Many thanks
Normally that is what I prefer to do first in order to save money. Try a cheap fix. But there is always a disadvantage > time consuming. Yes, the speed is a metal enemy and not respecting this will break/wear the tool or the piece.
I did the same for the Opel vectra '92, with the difference that I gave pieces of a PET bottle there. It worked great.
It is a real pity that a small metal part broke off because you did a perfect fix, but that is the risk in works like that. However, you pulled out almost maximum from that situation and made one more great tutorial!
Thank you Harvey, keep uploading, cheers...
Thanks, yes it was a shame, but it was my first attempt at it and at least others can now take heed lest he fall (corinthians 10:12) from my bodgery :-)
You just read my mind! This is exactly what I needed, these doors just won't stay open... Thanks a lot, will try when I'm not at work :D
Glad I could help :-)
Another great input in maintaing the Skoda - Thank you. All the best.
thanks, you too :-)
Супер! Привет из Харькова!
Спасибо добро пожаловать
Excellent, keep them coming, I love this kind of mods. Now if there were a way of tightening the door locks so the doors wouldn't rattle over bumps, or to better secure the armrests in the doors when the little pegs and tags are worn that'd be awesome.
They shouldn't rattle, but yours maybe damaged somehow. Does the door lift up/down by hand?
@@HatBoyHarvey well, they don't rattle as such, they are tight, but they sort of creak going over bumps. My guess is that the door seals are worn, letting the doors move ever so slightly, fractions of a millimetre even. When movement is transferred to the door trim panels x4, that's where the symphony begins.
Thank you very much for all the video clips you've published. Your work helped me a lot. Please make the next video replace the bad Brake Booster servo. Thank you so much in advance for the greeting from Croatia
dobro dan, You have a problem with your foot pedal sinking or very hard to stop? Have you checked the vacuum lines? any leaks or blocked?
@@HatBoyHarvey Hello! The vacuum tubes are as correct as the vacuum pump (when I put my finger on the vacuum, the hose that connects to the servo booster senses the pullout inside). The brake pedal is hard and needs to be pressed much harder for the brake to operate. When the pedal brake is activated, a short sound like SSSSS can be heard in the cab. I took off the hose that goes from the irreversible valve to the servo booster brakes, and instead of the vacuum bowel, I connected the outer hose through which I tried to blow air but resisted. My assistant, with the engine of the car extinguished, pressed a pedal of brake and then the resistance to blowing air stopped, and there was a strong blow in the cabin as I blew through the hose. After he stopped pressing the brake again, I felt resistance when blowing,
I already did it last week and it looks like it will work fine.
I opened those little metal pieces less than you, just so I could separate the two parts of the door arrester. During the bending, I noticed that one metal piece looked almost broken, so I was careful not to break it completely (I used just pliers to open these 4 metal pieces ). Maybe there is less material, so poeple wont try to fix these door arresters :)
Super super super....
Good job... Well done....
I try to my fabia...
Super, thanks, try not to break the tabs like me :-)
Nice to see it works 😀
I haven't fully tested it over time yet, but I am confident it will be fine :-)
Hi, But I'd like to ask when the video for the trunk lighting will be released
Another thing is when I open the trunk I have only 0.22V there and sometimes 7.50V-8.20V I am also interested in why? .. because my flashlight is charged to 13.09V I tested the light under current on a flashlight and it works beautifully. Where will the problem be?
Its propably my problem:(
Thanks for this video helped
The fault needs to be traced by process of elimination from one end to the other, loose connections, shorts and frayed wires.
Nice work! 👍👍👍👋
Thank you 👍
Nice experiment. Only what for problems give this for over a long period ? 🤔
I will wait to see?
Great, thanks!
You're welcome!
Merci pour la vidéo
Pas de problème :-)
Great video. Have a doubt I have a CBZB 1.2 tsi engine. While do fuel filter replacement the seller gave me a 4 bar fileter insted of 6.6 bar filer. The stock one is 6.6 bar. The seller as many online sources says 4 bar is compatible. My engine is stock. What's your opinion on putting 4 bar one. At present I am using 4 bar one. Seems ok to me. 6.6 bar OEM one seems a bit hard to find in my country. 4 bar one is also OEM.
Are you saying the one previously fitted on the car is 6.6 bar when you bought it? If engine is rated at 4 bar fuel pressure at the filter you should use that as higher pressure will only cause long term problems with stuff wearing out as the engine doesn't like it and will find it hard to compensate (richer fuelling). Premature pump failure and injector issues will ensue.
@@HatBoyHarvey Yes the last VW service center fitted one was 6.6 bar. The one i have with me now is 4 bar. Guess I will use it for few months then when giving car to service center will ask them to change it.
I did think this engine was 4 bar, maybe not?
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks for the reply. Will try on 4 bar filter for some time .
Bravo
Interesting, on my 2008 Roomster, which is basically a Fabia in 'different clothes', the fixed, single point end is on the pillar, and the bit that moves with the 2 bolts is in the door, but all looks identical otherwise. Many thanks
The other way round, interesting! :-)
Normally that is what I prefer to do first in order to save money. Try a cheap fix. But there is always a disadvantage > time consuming. Yes, the speed is a metal enemy and not respecting this will break/wear the tool or the piece.