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BMW E46 Cyclone Crankcase Ventilation System Explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ส.ค. 2016
- To get an oil/fluid check valve:
goo.gl/t2QapU
To get a set of the cold climate CCV components:
goo.gl/RDA6wX
Which consists of:
11617533400 - oil separator
11617533398 - valve cover to separator tube
11617533399 - intake manifold to separator tube
11157532629 - oil dipstick drain tube
11617504536 - intake manifold return tube
To get a set of the standard CCV components:
goo.gl/91Qxz2
Which consists of:
11617501566 - oil separator
11611432559 - valve cover to separator tube
11617504535 - intake manifold to separator tube
11157532649 - oil dipstick drain tube
11617504536 - intake manifold return tube
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
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Every single video this guy makes is worth reading like a hour of forum posts. Love it
Finally.. someone trying to explain things, all your videos are straight. Subscribed.
This check-valve mod really works! Thanks 50sKid!! Ordered the valve, received it 4 days later and our bad oil consumption problem was eliminated on our 2001 e46 330I. Quick note - you can do this mod in about 25 minutes if you do it this way: Remove cold air intake tube, filter box and top intake rubber hose. Then look down the dipstick tube (to very near the pan) and locate the oil return tube coming down from the crank case ventilation separator octopus. With a sharp 4" knife, reach way down and cut this hose about 1" above the top end of the barb from the dipstick (assure room as you need to press the check-valve barb into the hose without interference from the dipstick barb). There isn't much room but if you gently move the knife back and forth 8-10 strokes, you can cut it. Then install the check-valve. With this method, very little disassembly is necessary. Also, it may look like you should have access to this area by jacking up the car and removing the left front wheel, but there is not enough opening there, without completely removing the whole engine under-tray. The above described method was fast and worked great. Hope that this helps!
How is the valve working so far?? Check valve right ? So you did it jus like he said?? Any info would help thanks
Yeah I would also like to know how it's working so far.
well said! 230,000 and 330,000 in the two I have and no issues with the oil burning with this mod
@Larry Smith, report back please. Let us know how your modification is working.
By chance, did you happen to have oil on the spark plugs and misfiring when the ccv system failed?
7 yr old video sure came as a life saver for my 2003 BMW Z4. I appreciate the explanation and my confidence level sure went up on this fix.
First a note of appreciation. Your videos are among the best on the internet. Good job. Please keep it up.
Second, I am not a big fan of modifying stock engine systems unless you are going to go whole hog and prepare it for the track or some such other endeavor. That said, I thought your suggestion of putting a check valve in the oil drain tube was genius. But then again, maybe not. Or at least, it won't cover all possibilities. Let me explain. I just finished replacing my ccv valve. 2003 Z4. And it needed it. It was putting enough oil into the intake manifold that it was puddling in the air equalizer portion of the intake manifold. But here is the rub. The tube running down to the engine block, the dipstick tube, was almost dry. The oil in the intake manifold wasn't coming from the sump. It was coming from the valve cover by way of the ccv valve. The diaphragm had stuck wide open and all the oil rich air being pulled out of the valve cover was going to the cyclone and then up to then up to the intake manifold. The oil was precipitating out of the air in the air equalizer manifold much the way it should have been separated in the cyclone. Getting to the point, at least in my case, the check valve option wouldn't have helped.
Anyway. You are a saint among TH-cam video producers. Keep up the good work.
50s kid = bmw god.
trueee
True af
Ong
Yea, right. That's 50sKid in a nutshell.
Episode 1: how to change pan gasket*
Episode 2: my car dumped all oil and I got stranded
Episode 3: what to watch out for when changing pan gasket
Episode 4: how to change pan gasket (properly this time)
*Insert name of any major part on a car. And, I mean guy learns as he goes, he is not a professional mechanic, after all. His DIYs are extremely helpful for newbies but he also makes a lot of mistakes.
E46 God
Excellent video!!! Short, concise, no nonsense, not trying to be a personality on TH-cam, just information that we the viewers are looking for. Thank you
I installed an oil catch can that is just chillin by my air filter. When I empty it, I just use a suction pump and a small tube. Takes about 2 minutes.
Doesn't need to be emptied very much
Great video,I learnt a lot about bad PCV,CCV systems when I owned a 5 cyclinder Volvo,they are notorious for issues with these systems,worse han Beemers , the check valve is a great idea tto prevent oil being sucked back up, but it must have a very low spring pressure else the weight of the oil trying to get back into the crankcase will not open it by gravity,maybe on an M54 it is better to drill a small hole in the part of the dip stick double tube section above the normal oil level line so if excess vacuum occurs, i will not suck raw oil,another note for anybody intending to delete CCV , bare in mind that these engines seals (rear main, front seal and all the noorious leaky gaskets)seal so much better with a negative pressure on the crankcase,my suggestion is to maintain the CCV,but mount the new one outside of the engine,say on your left inner guard area, extend all hoses to and from,mount it a same angle and height as it was under the intake manifold but outside of he manifold , your engine bay wont look as tidy, but cleaning and replacing the CCV in future will be much easier, BMW really did place it in a prick of a place
I think on these engines you could just stick a modified oil cap with a pressure gauge fitted, then start the car and note the measurement. If it is within -+0.03 bar vs. ambient air pressure (refer to nearest weather station). If pressure is significantly lower, then your membrane is stuck open or ruptured hose. If pressure is higher, there's a blockage or the membrane is closed.
You really seem to know your stuff. Thank you very much for your videos. They were very helpful this weekend for the VANOS seals and the lock cylinder rebuild! Especially the lock cylinder stuff - without your video I would have never known it was that easy to fix. Car is running *great* now, it now feels like it did 12 years ago when I bought it, and for the first time in probably 4 years I can finally lock it! I'm pretty sure I will have to do the CCV valve, so I'll watch this then!
awesome!
Very informational explanation! Love your details videos! Even my kids starts understand how complex systems works. Keep doing what you’re doing!
Thank you for your video. It's easy to protect this system in the areas with the cold climate - dont use the car during the winter for often shot trips. If you want to use your car for the few miles, just add to your shot tryp about 10-15 miles to "fry" the engine. And this system will be clean and the membrane will be intact.
Thanks for clearing that up. I use oil catch cans on my GM 2014 and 2017 6.2 direct injected engines. Like you said they must be drained at about 3000 miles. Now that I understand the BMW system I think that's a great way to stay. I installed a hose on the bottom of my catch can and installed a motor cycle fuel drain valve draining is a lot easier. The motor cycle drain valve has the right O-rings so the crank case crap don't affect the rubber in the valve. The air tank drain valves do not last very long. Thanks for the great info. Paul's Transmission & Repair Baker city, Oregon love working on vehicles.
He knows so much like he's like a living BMW repair manual.
I like the addition of the check valve to the return hose. In order to combat heat degradation of the top part of that same hose, what would you think about wrapping an 8x4 inch strip of aluminum foil lengthwise around the critical section for heat shielding, then securing it with worm clamps? Aluminum does a great job reflecting radiant heat, which is why they use it in heat shielding near the headers etc.
what about thermal heat resistant tape? wires are taped with this tape from factory
So that's how that handicapped octopi actually works! I'will be looking for the lower return hose to the oil dip stick tube now. That one part should be fairly inexpensive and easy to replace.. Thanks for your lessons man, keep rocking. !!!!!!
Great video, and that's an excellent idea using a check valve in the drain line. The system overall looks pretty cheap though. What about a catch can, and running the drain from the catch can to the oil sump return line. You could plumb in the check valve you mentioned, or perhaps use a solenoid valve which defaults to open whenever de-energized, as when the engine is off.
Thanks for the tutorial. You just set my mind at ease in a major way. I thought my X5 was going to have to be taken out to the pasture and put out of its misery, but now I am confident that it will be smoke free in a matter of hours.
Any news from your X5? Have you fixed it by changing CCV setting?
i really enjoy listening to you. you speak clearly with good intonation.
You gave me the solution I've been looking for for a long time!
Subscribed!!!
Would you PLEASE buy an old 07 n-52 e83 and make these videos again? Your videos are the best. I am a weekend warrior mechanic and not very good. you explain things at a level real people can understand without getting to elementary. I just watched the whole dang video even though my CCV is built into the VC. I would be done chasing my leaks and problems by now had you just bought the same vehicle as mine lol! Great vids, thank you!
I love your videos. Well done. Good information. And, the check valve modification is genius. If I may, you did the equivalent of putting a conventional (non-BMW) PCV valve in the BMW system. That is the sort of thing you would think BMW would have done, but perhaps that is asking too much. Anyway, another excellent video. Good job.
If they put this part in an easily accessible place we wouldn't all be so mad about it, having it under the intake manifold is a pain.
Just a chance to clean and replace small things along the way! (vacuum lines, plugs, gaskets, etc.)
Amen to that.
that's how you know they're building a service oriented money pit 🙄
Can I drive with a bad pcv valve for the meantime until my parts come in? I’m sorry if this is a stupid question
@@jeromeestrada6366 yes its fine
I did this job today. Took maybe 2 hours all up without removing intake manifold. Not too bad once you've made some room down there. Unfortunately the 2nd length of intake hose after the maf ripped apart as I removed it. Thankfully the best genuine bmw parts dealer around (Latvia + Lithuania) should send a new one on it's way real soon.
Also I was amused to find the cold weather version is simple the summer one, but with a nice little rubber/foam jacket.
Wow. So you're telling me that my ruptured hose at the bottom of the ccv system has simply been leaking oil. That explains a lot for both my E36s lol
Very good explanation. Thanks from the Home of BMW. Bavaria Germany
Great Video & Fantastic Pedagogy! I´ve fixed the most DIY maintains job on my BMW E46 through your videos!
Awesome videos!
😊
Thanks, that you Share!
Good video, I deleted mine on my 330i in favor of the oil catch can. Being in the north east the only problem I have had with it is when it gets cold the catch can fills up with water, so you constantly have to check it. In the summer You don't have to worry about it. I check it every thousand miles or so in the summer and there is a little bit of oil in there. You forgot to mention that the catch can increases crank case vacuum which gives the car a performance boost. I have been running the RAD OCC kit in my car for over two years with excellent results.
Nice, thanks for the info. I'm not sure increasing crankcase vacuum really actually provides any sort of performance boost, BUT i don't want to start a war over that, lol. Question: what is a RAD OCC kit?
O my bad, this is the kit that I am running, its a bit on the pricey side but I love the mounting location the kit provides
www.radiumauto.com/Catch-Can-Kit-for-BMW-E46-3-SeriesM3-P298.aspx
Thanks for the great video, I learn a lot with your detail explanation. For now I m trying the check valve , if the oil consumption stops or reduce then it will be great and is a easy job. I just worried the oil stuck in the hose .
Love your videos! I'll definitely try your mod. It's a pain in the ass to change the CCV system.
Good insight. I’d stay with the oe setup. the problem with aftermarket parts store pcv hoses I noticed is that they crack too soon for some reason. I discovered this on my Oil Catch can set up on my 4 cyl M44. So for my M54 I kept it the same.
With my 2001 BMW X5 during cold weather I find I have to warm up these crankcase ventilation lines by running my engine at least 10 minutes while parked. I am not warming up the engine per-se but warming up the lines around the CCV so that I do not get the freezing and plugging effect.
Very good explanation of the breather system.Your recommendation about removing the inlet manifold fully agree.
It sounds like more work but it makes it easy. Thank you again
That valve at the end there was clever! I think my old e46 is due for one of these repairs (along with a few others). Thanks and subbed!
I connected that nipple to the back of the intake on my old e46 M54 330ci - It stopped my excessive oil consumption.
Thank you for an awesome channel!! I drive a E39 and replacing the CCV right now.
hey 50's kid watched your video on oil filter gasket replacement very helpful was wondering if you were changing your front wheel bearings anytime soon would really love one of ur detailed videos all the ones I'm finding aren't really step by step like yours
I know that my driver side wheel bearing was already replaced. Not sure about the passenger side. But i'll put it on the list.
Great video! I replaced my starter recently and broke my ccv, i had to get to work so i taped it up (not very well) and saw a big cloud of smoke 💨 while driving on the high way, I thought it might be the head gasket but no overheating, hopefully this is the issue, parts are on the way
Having similar issues. No overheating and white smoke. Did it solve your problem
@@mvc2177 yeah i replaced my ccv and no more clouds of smoke 👍🏽
I appreciate all your hard work, thank you for sharing.
great video explaining the ccv. So what would you delete from that if you deside to do the catch can setup. Can you do a video on that, seeing you have a spare ccv to demonstrate?
I love how your start out the video saying "On a normal car" lol You are so right. BMWs are Not normal.
Can a malfunction of this part cause the "STOP! Oil pressure" warning to appear? I really enjoy your videos, magnificient work!
unlikely!
This causes an abnormal vacuum leak at idle ie. rough idle cold misfires while in "open loop"
👍
Olive oil and or Pam works great on o-rings, and since its a non petroleum product it doesn’t harm the o-rings.
you explained this SO WELL !
50sKid you are doing a great job also when coming to explanation. I understood you there very clearly. 👌🏽
Dude your awesome! I now know way more than I need about my m54. Thanks your dope af!
Very informative, i have a question , is there enough vacuum to open the check valve? I am afraid that the oil stuck on the tube and didn't go to the oil pan.
Thanks a lot
A PCV is not a check valve! There should be no check valve. sure not one that is spring operated or vertically mounted. A free-ball type check mounted horizontally might work for a while.
A PCV valve is normally open. The flow gets gradually restricted as manifold vacuum raises, mostly on idle and near idle (PCV system is not meant to suck up oil vapors, it is meant to suck up blowby and water vapors). The central exposed piece of orange rubber is not a seal, it is meant to tear if the oil sticks up the valve, acting then as a fixed orifice PCV and a vacuum leak that shows engine light. Older PCVs acted as a check valve against backfire, these new ones don't protect against backfire at all so back to point one - it is not a check valve, ever.
Listen to this guy and ruin your engine for good, he can buy parts, follow a manual but he's a parts monkey with no real understanding.
@@dushk0 pretty sure he is talking about the check valve he installed for the oil, not the CCV itself.
@@dushk0 you seem to have a better understanding of the system, please make a video about it. i get the occasional engine light because of p0171/0174 and the engine often stalls when rpm approaches idle. should i replace the whole system then or just the lower tube which might have cracked?
I ended up removing the ccv system and routing a line from the valve cover port down to the ground to avoid smelling the vapors. I Sealed off the two small ports on top of the intake and put a cap on the oil return line port @ the dip stick.
6 months and probably 5 thousand miles later it seems to be runing ok. I'm no enginer- I dont know how much vacuum goes through the system but I need to know what and how much damage it might cause. # 02 E53 X5 @240k
im in about the same boat. did pretty much what u explained except i routed a hose up towards the intake from the dip stick so there can be some air flow. im just kinda wondering if im gonna loose oil and such by leaving the valve cover open like i am now. i considered putting a small pod filter on there but since its an output i dont think i need that.
Is a very good information, thank you very much, I have learned a lot, I will do the changes of pipes.
Great explanation of the system, but I think the check valve is a bad idea, this system relies on gravity getting the oil out of the separator and down the dipstick tube into the oil pan. Problem with the in-line check valve is that it often requires a certain amount of pressure in order to actuate the spring inside, effectively clogging up the tube and flooding the oil separator.
I tested it before I decided to use it and gravity is more than enough to pass the oil through it. When the "arrow" is pointing down, the check valve is "opened" by gravity all the time... it has to be sucked shut by vacuum or by reverse flow, which it is.
Okay, sounds good then. I guess there are very different check valves around. I had one that required alot of pressure to actuate it, but it might have been purely for heavy hydraulics or something. Cheers! You make exceptional videos.
FrozenHaxor I was thinking the same exact thing.
what exact check valve did you use? seems like a lot of the check valves out there are spring loaded and I guess the one that you used is gravity actuated. can you point us to a seller or store to get that exact check valve?
Another great video 50sKid. Thank you.
Wow, thank you for this video. I have those lean codes and i believe this is the culprit. Never understood exactly what it does, but now I do! Earned my sub.
Thx!
Great explanation on how the ccv works!! Well done, your a smart man.
Also, when in cold climate, this thing can freeze. Usually if you got the mayo problem, there is a risk of freezing too. Mine did that. It was -20c and some part of the system froze shut, and result was oil shooting out from the filler cap. Fortunately it failed from there, and not from valve cover gasket.
mine failed from the valve cover gasket. It was -35 when it happened
Ouch. Did you get by just replacing the gasket, or was there more damage?@@franklin8408
@@Thesuice I HAD THE GASKET REPLACED TODAY, I OVER TORQUE 2 NUTS AND BROKE THEM. GARAGE SAID MY OIL SEPARATOR LEAKING, WHICH I CAN'T SEE THE PROBLEM. WILL FIX IT ONE BY ONE
Best explanation of an issue on youtube. Thanks
I like how he explains things. I’m subbing
This video made me realise I never knew to twist that ccv hose to lock it, right after I just swapped my motor and put everything back on..
Great video 🎉 I have a BMW Z4 which has the same M54 engine. Quite useful information
Thanks for the explanation 50's kid!! awesome video, finally understood how it works!! any part numbers or details about the Check valve?
Link in the description. Always check the description.
50sKid always do! somehow I missed it at the very top thanks a lot Sir!!
you're one the best I've ever seen, I've been following you for some time and I really like the way you explain things and demonstrate them! am already a subscriber and I'll keep following your videos! thumbs up
thanks so much!
How can i diagnose if its working properly or need replacement ? Thanks for all your great videos
Would that cause a whistle noise i have a whistle noise when i rev my engine
Change the oil filter
Air leak
Interesting info about the vacuum line to the fuel filter! That the pressure regulater dosn't run on vacuum. Is that actually so? So it coult be capped of if one would like to eliminate that line?
Yes it could be. The fuel pressure regulator is at a fixed pressure.
50skid i have a m52b28tu i had the horrible animal sound when i removed the oil cap know i found out that the line to the fuel regulator was raptured and i replaced it now it doesnt make the animal sound anymore but it has little vacuum but i think thats normal on any engine .but my concern is that even on working temparture of the engine there are a lot off exhaust vapour coming out is this oil vapour? hope you reply thanx
These BMW are Alot of maintnance . It sucks that all the Hoses are SPECIAL HOSES and cannot be CLAMPED down.
Im used to clamping everything !
Lmao .
Im new with the E46 BMW
CONVERTIBLE 330CI
50's kid......thanks for all your video's. If I pull my DISA off and see a fairly oily residue insode the intake manifold, could this also be due to excess oil coming thru CCV system and back into manifold ? E53 has over 225K. thanks. Les
Best video out there explaining the pcv
deleted the whole mess. oil catch can and pcv . works great.
I have a BMW 328i 2000... that port ( vaccum tube) on the oil separator piece... min is not capped and is not connected to anything EITHER. Let's say if it is suppose to be connected to the fuel rail but IS NOT... is that why my car is running with rough idle on cold start?
if the diaphragm fails, a simple checkvalve wont save it, it will still suck oil from the crankcase due to excessive vacuum
What about a catch can with the drain routed to the dipstick tube (where the stock CCV drains)? This is what my friend did on his E39 530i and I'm thinking about doing the same once my CCV fails, since a catch can will never fail like the CCV diaphragm does.
Thanks !!! I have a 630i 2005. N52 engine now it smokes and does exacly what you say ! So i am gonna order that and put it on .. fingers crosset 😉😉😉
Best presentation ever, thank you!
Great video as always, your a smart guy. I Have a question if you would be so kind. My 07 X3 E83 3.0l makes a whistling, whining Irritating noise slowly starting at around 30 mph, when accelerating then stops at around 35, starts again when decelerating at around 35 stops at about 28 mph, whether In neutral, in sport mode, with brakes applied or not always at the same speed and rpm's. It's high pitched and almost sounds like it's coming from my speakers or windshield area center inside car or under the truck, with windows open or closed. The pitch changes sometimes w/ rpm's, worse when weather is colder but car is warmed up. Sometimes doesn't happen, I'll stop, shut car off, go again and it will start again. I have a slight leak in my rear diff. added oil need to change seal. Changed multiple parts, rear bearings, driveshaft, reluctor rings rear abs sensors, valve cover gaskets, plugs, coils, oil change at 3-5000 ms. Made a mistake and put 75W-140 redlne in front diff and 75W-90 Valvoline in rear diff. Could the driveline be that sensitive? Performed adaptations for TC w/ new oil. Changed Tranny Filter, pan gasket 2x's and added fluid twice. Could be bad Tranny filter or humidity in oil? Low oil? Just put 4 new Michelin's. I have a little play in lower front forward control arms so I never put the plastic under cover shields back on because I'm always working on this vehicle. I don't know anymore, Please help. I'll buy you a beer. I Have Foxwell 510 BMW specific OBD2 everything checks out. No more codes since abs system was resolved. Truck runs pretty good with 135,000 miles, noise is making me crazy though. CCV, PCV? Pad and Rotors replaced 2 times in 25,000 miles and I drive easy. Sorry for the book. Peace!
thanks for this video. I have a 2006 E87 118i with a N46 engine. What video can I see to change the CCV and its 3 hoses? Can I get away with not removing the intake manifold to change it? thanks!
I purchased a check valve and it looks similar to the own shown in the video, but i suspect the pressure needed for the oil to flow through is too high, i have to blow on it with some amount of pressure for it to open. Do i need one that opens with gravity or will the system apply enough pressure on the check valve so that the oil can flow down?
Another great video :). I don't have the m54 but you're a great teacher and I like to learn.
Thanks!
I replace the pcv and cvv and now my car wont fully start it cranks but does not turn on fully. The car was running fine. I did had some connectors in the wrong place at first when I started the car. the car turn on but the gas pedal did not have any pressure it was loose when I press on the gas. So I check the engine again and reconnect the connectors and the car started to cranked. So I jump the car battery to see if it would help and it didn't the EML yellow light came on and now this is where I'm stuck. What is the next step I need to take before I take it to a mechanic. Is there a video where you go over the connector on M54 engine e85 and explain their purpose. I have a 2005 e85 m54 z4 3.0i z4 bmw. It has the same pcv and cvv in this video tho.
So how does one replace the CCV without removing the intake manifolds?
He made a video bout it dude
Very informative video! What size is that one way valve? Also do BMW sell the diaphragm + spring separately?
Can I troubleshoot this by loosening my oil fill cap to ensure it's a CCV vacuum issue? I have the typical VANOS and half power mode after 20 minutes of driving. I have noticed my oil fill cap has a strong vacuum and I want to be 100% sure it's my CCV/ valve cover assembly. Can I loosen my oil fill cover to have a better vent and testdrive to see if it makes a difference?
At 4:00 you talk about the fittings being quick connect but then go on saying that they are troublesome as if you are unaware that there are specified pinch points on the floating plastic ring. It should be explained and that the pipes are not simply push and pull connections, which could lead to breakage upon install or even mis-installation. They are squeeze/push, squeeze/pull.
I did mention they were quick-release. What I meant when I said they were difficult to get off was that the o-rings, when new, fit very tightly and even when pressing the pinch points, it's difficult to get them off.
Hi great video, I have 520i E61 N43 car, I took some test , I pretty sure the the PCV diaphragm has ruptured, it makes whistle noise at idling, strong suction from oil cap, rough idling. just wander can you drive with blocking the vent hole on the top of the ccv valve cover?
What happens when you take the rubber diaphragm out and run it that way......with a check valve in your oil return. It would be no different that hooking a vacuum line up to the port. It would also not be much different than a catch can
George my E46 2003 during acceleration after drive for 20 min nothing lights fault detect but view blue smog exhaust what you recommend due. may be de PCV VALVE fault. the car have 150 k miles
I got a check engine light on with P0441, the interesting thing is that when I replaced the valve cover gasket and the hose that goes to CCV on the side of cover broke. Can the EVAP code be associated with the CCV hose?
check out MBs cyclonic crankcase ventilation system on the OM648, same principal, but better, more condensed engineering.
Watched your ccv delete video. i replaced my system with my starter replacement. Should I consider the delete?
Great video and thanks for revisiting this topic. I changed my ccv from you videos and it went perfect.
Can you tell me tho... I have a 2001 M54 330 and I never moved over the blanking port you talk about.
So basically the new ccv has been installed without this.
Oh and lastly do you know if my aftermarket ccv would allow me to fit a genuine BMW new pipe to it. The push clip that attaches to the vanos has snapped and I was hoping to buy a new pipe from BMW with better plastic.
If you didn't move it over then you've got a small vacuum leak that is giving you positive fuel trim and causing you bad mileage. The bmw pipes will be compatible.
I had the most common broken hose you mentioned broken. It was broken during extreme cold and high humid weather. I did see a little yellow mayo. I didn’t open the system to check for mayo. Would a bad ccv make a hight pirch noise at cold start only? It only does it for 5 seconds and it goes away.
My intake manifold is a bit dirty too. I clean the valve too.
I am living in small town and where doe law don’t apply Can I just vent the pressure from the valves cover straight into outside tqvm
I just replaced my valve cover gasket and when I went to turn it on it was running fine for a few minutes and suddenly it started to run ruff and I git a check engine light got it scanned at autozone got codes for the ccv system and mas air flow sensor
Car was running perfectly fine before replacing the valve cover gasket what can it maybe be ??? Maybe a cracked ccv hose
Great explanation on how the CCV system works. But if I understand your explanation up to the check valve idea it seems to me that the check valve might be bad in a particular situation: if the diaphragm fails allowing full vacuum to be applied to the oil return line (as you explained earlier) the valve would shut close not allowing the oil to be sucked up, indeed, but also not allowing the condensed oil from the CCV to drain. That would then be sucked in the engine. Did I got that right?
Yes but that would not be as bad as the oil from the oil separator AND the oil from the oil pan getting sucked into the intake. :-) It may or may not even cause much smoke. The hope is that it will make a little bit of smoke, enough to alert you that there is a problem that you need to take care of, but not strand you on the side of the road!
@@50sKid i have some issued with that check valve system , i think its must be test the check valve flow with gravity test , if the spring is to strong some oil will be stuck on it, and it will be burn when cold start, its alwyas possible positve crankcase pressure will open the check valve.
my E46 BMW EngiMisfire 5 with fuel cut-off only the first start show code PI351 , may be the idled speed Valve is the problem ? the spark plug and coil is ok
Great video! Now I understand the CCV.
Hi 50's kid, I have an e87 120i, with the N46 engine. After idling for about 10 minutes I'm hearing an extremely loud squeaking noise coming from the engine bay and the noise disappears when the revs fluctuate between 700 and 900 rpm. I've been told its a vacuum leak. Is there a common pipe that leaks on this system that I can replace to get rid of this irritating noise or do I need to replace the entire CCV?
The one way valve need some pressure to open, sow it will work?
If we use the one direction valve we need the diagrame, can we delete it in this case? thanks.
Hi I have a problem my engine dosent have a dipstick hole I have a z4 2.0 2005 basically it's a E46 engine and I have a proble with the cartergas acumlation in the engine when I start cold the engine its comming out a big cloud of smoke and it goes up the rot min to 1200 for about 2 min this could be the problem the pcv system?
How often does it fail? Well according to earlier in your video, EVERY TIME.
Did you make a newer video on this where you described the ports correctly? Cause i found this confusing. 2here is vacuum applied ? Which port ? I assume the intake manifold creates the vacuum. Cheers