UPOL makes Raptor Liner, which makes an epoxy primer since you asked about it early in the video. I love your videos, including the rants; keep keeping it reel.
Have used the 2843, 2872, and 2882 clear and they all were really not worth using. The 2882 is meant for single panels and dries up pretty quick but also dulls very fast, the 2843 and 2872 say they're meant for overall and multi panels but set up quick and hardly level out at all. Additionally it seemed like no matter what hardener was used the dry times were never affected, I live in California and while the winters aren't extremely cold even using a slow hardener was too fast and as for the hot and humid summer days you can forget about using this stuff im not even sure if a retarder would've helped much. Id assume the national rule products are better but in general I've never really heard a whole lot of great things about upol aside from their raptor liner and high build primer
Hello my friend Pete. I have learned a lot from your channel and I’ll let you know what works best for us for collisions or low budget builds. We use upol gold filler, dolphin glaze and upol primer. The primer comes in grey and black and it’s a dtm so we never use expoy really. If you don’t add any reducer to the primer it’s ready to sand fast and easy. Adding reducer we giving it 24-48 hours for an easy sand and move to another project while waiting. As far as our clear, the best bang for the buck is finish 1. We have tried to find something better but never have for the money. We do always use slow with finish 1 or we will use med if it’s under 68 degrees. Hope this helps you out as much as you have helped us 👍
Hey Pete, I love this type of video for you. I really hope you do more like this, no cussing, no ranting. I've been following you for over 10 years. You're a wealth of great honest information, I feel the only reason you're not getting 100's of thousands of views is because of your temper 😉 I wish you the best, you deserve it. Keep up the great work
Thanks Pete . I’ve been waiting to see a review on u-pol products that I can’t get in Ca. The 2333 hardener is not allowed in Ca. Same as your clear . We have to purchase their low voc. Crap that is so thick you have to reduce it , but they don’t sell their reducer in ca , see where I’m going ! I use their bondo the cheaper can I just add some honey to it to thin it out .never tried the gold , I’m a cheap low budget guy on a fixed income . Next time I go out of state I’ll get some as you demonstrated. As far as results I have to color sand and buff just like you , this stuff in Ca. Is a rock hard product have to use 1000 then up They sell some products of u-pol at Oriley’s auto , but you may have to order it . Rock on Pete!
Brother if I were you just stay away from upol clear in general, I'm also in CA and had the same exact issues. Let me know your budget on a clear and I can tell you some products that worked great for me
I built custom pool cues , before that I had painted cars for years. I’ve used a lot of clear coats and have found that is some of the best clear I’ve ever used on my pool Cues . I use a UV sealer , that gets sanded smooth than I do automotive clear. I use the 2892 with a fast harder . truly some of the best clear I have ever used. keep in mind I want fast drying , that will give me less shrinkage down the road .. love the shine the way it sprays , durable , buffs really easy and it’s affordable .
I'm impressed with UPOL products. I use the primer you use. Works great. The cheapo UPOL Fantastic gold body filler you can buy at O'Reilly's works every bit as well as Rage Gold
I have to say Pete, I've used UPOL primer and hardener and some filler a long time ago. Can't say anything bad about it. That same primer is what I used to fix the messed up area on the MGA project. I did like it. It is more reasonable to buy for a DIY guy like me. I like slow hardener almost in any conditions. Helps me fake my way through a bit better! Take it easy buddy, JB Mike
It's a medium solids clear...good for spray and let her go kinda of jobs...can't color sand and polish much and does shrink alittle more then more expensive stuff...but for the price and ease of spraying lays pretty down pretty good it's a bargain ❤
Hay bud love the video, I use the upol gold body filler and it's good stuff. It spreads easy and sands really easy it's better than everycoat rage gold.
i been using upol for years,i found the 4to1 is good for jambs but there high solids 2 to 1 is great stuff very durable, painted the bed on my f250 using the HS and has been out in the sun in So Cal for 7 years and now in lake havasu az for over 3 years and still looks real good and used Summits brand of high solids on the cab and its coming off in sheets
I have used it before. It is what I used on the 78 Pinto. I like it, but I think I am not using the right hardener for the temp. Definitely going to pay more attention to it when I paint the Cougar next year.
Try some Ms 30 from Matrix Pete it works really good very very high gloss I've never had any pinch back with it ever don't want to hammer it on too wet though it will solvent boil makes a good OEM finish
Pete, Its been like 10 years now, I recall you did a clear coat brands comparison with a brand Crystal Clear being the best, Im unsure if that brand is around anymore. This SYSTEM 20 clear has a fabulous shine to it and the kit pricing is afforable.
I've been using upol primer sealer in the rattle can and have had great results for the a 2 b cars. I would use there clear or the finish 1 works good for a 2 b cars as well
Never used their bondo , but used their upo700 fiberglass filler and that worked great and seemed to sand easier then most and spread nice and smooth Slow hardner is the way to go imo And also yes I’m not big on using new materials haha like you I’m a ppg man use the he’ll out of shopline
2882 is decent stuff and yes, it's critical to use the slowest hardener possible for the temp range you're spraying in. A splash of slow reducer or even retarder is helpful with Upol, but even better is the 2802 high solids. It has less shrinkage and chance of dieback.
Nice review Pete. I have used that clear and noticed that temperature does have a big affect on it. Had results smooth like glass and then not so great and my guess was it was temperature. When I try it again my plan is to lower the pressure if it is warmer. I'm guessing it's viscosity is too thin or light and it sprays dry. What do you think?
I have not used this product before but I have used another "cheap" clearcoat brand; Advantage brand I think it was - it was also around $90/gal. It turned out great initially and looked great for aprox 2 years until it started looking "splotchy" then eventually peeled in small thin sheets away from the basecoat. 5 years later there is hardly any of it left on the top surfaces of my car; it is still hanging on to the sides and places which don't get direct sunlight. So obviously one measure of merit for clearcoat is how long it stays attached to the basecoat paint under the environmental stress of sunlight and maybe heat - I'm not sure what exactly caused it to delaminate. The basecoat is still holding on but is not looking good; it's wearing without the clearcoat on top of it. So, with that all said; do you know how long this brand clearcoat will last in direct sunlight conditions? I am not a professional painter; I D.I.Y painted one car in my life which actually turned out well for ~ 2 years but now looks like crap! Not sure if it was something I did wrong or is a result of just using "cheap" products. My paint shop did have better options for clear but it was like $800 a gallon! I've also been told (by my paint store folks) that single stage paint (basecoat and clear mixed together) is more durable under environmental stress than separate basecoat then clearcoat systems; maybe you could comment on that. Thanks for the informative video.
Hi Pete can you help do you know of any chemical you can put on to Aluminium engine block to remove corrosion without scrubbing ?? Would be much appreciated
the upol clear is meh at best. dies back and pinches pretty bad. akzonobel imperium/ wanda (same parent company) is significantly better with the gloss retention and not that much more. I think around $120 a gallon
Let me know what you think of this stuff -- If you have used it before please leave a comment on your experiance.. Thanks for watching
UPOL makes Raptor Liner, which makes an epoxy primer since you asked about it early in the video.
I love your videos, including the rants; keep keeping it reel.
Merry Christmas Pete Minnie.❤
Have used the 2843, 2872, and 2882 clear and they all were really not worth using. The 2882 is meant for single panels and dries up pretty quick but also dulls very fast, the 2843 and 2872 say they're meant for overall and multi panels but set up quick and hardly level out at all. Additionally it seemed like no matter what hardener was used the dry times were never affected, I live in California and while the winters aren't extremely cold even using a slow hardener was too fast and as for the hot and humid summer days you can forget about using this stuff im not even sure if a retarder would've helped much. Id assume the national rule products are better but in general I've never really heard a whole lot of great things about upol aside from their raptor liner and high build primer
I don't like it. Prefer Finish1 FC720 for cheap clear.
I would prefer using the up2882 seems to be more flowable imo
Hello my friend Pete. I have learned a lot from your channel and I’ll let you know what works best for us for collisions or low budget builds. We use upol gold filler, dolphin glaze and upol primer. The primer comes in grey and black and it’s a dtm so we never use expoy really. If you don’t add any reducer to the primer it’s ready to sand fast and easy. Adding reducer we giving it 24-48 hours for an easy sand and move to another project while waiting. As far as our clear, the best bang for the buck is finish 1. We have tried to find something better but never have for the money. We do always use slow with finish 1 or we will use med if it’s under 68 degrees. Hope this helps you out as much as you have helped us 👍
Great information!
Hey Pete, I love this type of video for you. I really hope you do more like this, no cussing, no ranting. I've been following you for over 10 years. You're a wealth of great honest information, I feel the only reason you're not getting 100's of thousands of views is because of your temper 😉 I wish you the best, you deserve it. Keep up the great work
Thanks a lot I was wondering about that clear coat and I think you did a great job at breaking it down for us
Nice job Pete!!
That upol primer is awesome stuff.
Thanks Pete!! Appreciate all you do. I know it takes a lot of extra time to do these videos. Great information and it looks great!!
If Pete say it is good it is he is the master
Thanks Pete . I’ve been waiting to see a review on u-pol products that I can’t get in Ca. The 2333 hardener is not allowed in Ca. Same as your clear . We have to purchase their low voc. Crap that is so thick you have to reduce it , but they don’t sell their reducer in ca , see where I’m going ! I use their bondo the cheaper can I just add some honey to it to thin it out .never tried the gold , I’m a cheap low budget guy on a fixed income . Next time I go out of state I’ll get some as you demonstrated.
As far as results I have to color sand and buff just like you , this stuff in Ca. Is a rock hard product have to use 1000 then up
They sell some products of u-pol at Oriley’s auto , but you may have to order it .
Rock on Pete!
Brother if I were you just stay away from upol clear in general, I'm also in CA and had the same exact issues. Let me know your budget on a clear and I can tell you some products that worked great for me
I built custom pool cues , before that I had painted cars for years. I’ve used a lot of clear coats and have found that is some of the best clear I’ve ever used on my pool Cues . I use a UV sealer , that gets sanded smooth than I do automotive clear. I use the 2892 with a fast harder . truly some of the best clear I have ever used. keep in mind I want fast drying , that will give me less shrinkage down the road .. love the shine the way it sprays , durable , buffs really easy and it’s affordable .
The u -pol gold body filler is really good,all i use now! Best clear ive used is the nasons 475-00 high image clear,its a 2:1 mix
I'm impressed with UPOL products. I use the primer you use. Works great. The cheapo UPOL Fantastic gold body filler you can buy at O'Reilly's works every bit as well as Rage Gold
upol spraycan etch primer turned out to be the best for my driverway rust repair on my Chevelle and Mustang.
I have to say Pete, I've used UPOL primer and hardener and some filler a long time ago. Can't say anything bad about it. That same primer is what I used to fix the messed up area on the MGA project. I did like it. It is more reasonable to buy for a DIY guy like me. I like slow hardener almost in any conditions. Helps me fake my way through a bit better! Take it easy buddy, JB Mike
It's a medium solids clear...good for spray and let her go kinda of jobs...can't color sand and polish much and does shrink alittle more then more expensive stuff...but for the price and ease of spraying lays pretty down pretty good it's a bargain ❤
Looks awesome Pete, I would try it after seeing this!!
Merry Christmas to you and Minnie! ✝️🎄🎁
Hay bud love the video, I use the upol gold body filler and it's good stuff.
It spreads easy and sands really easy it's better than everycoat rage gold.
i been using upol for years,i found the 4to1 is good for jambs but there high solids 2 to 1 is great stuff very durable, painted the bed on my f250 using the HS and has been out in the sun in So Cal for 7 years and now in lake havasu az for over 3 years and still looks real good and used Summits brand of high solids on the cab and its coming off in sheets
Looks Beautiful to me good job Pete.
That's great clear I used it on my car high gloss
I have used it before. It is what I used on the 78 Pinto. I like it, but I think I am not using the right hardener for the temp. Definitely going to pay more attention to it when I paint the Cougar next year.
Try some Ms 30 from Matrix Pete it works really good very very high gloss I've never had any pinch back with it ever don't want to hammer it on too wet though it will solvent boil makes a good OEM finish
Sweet project, thanks for the video
Pete, Its been like 10 years now, I recall you did a clear coat brands comparison with a brand Crystal Clear being the best, Im unsure if that brand is around anymore. This SYSTEM 20 clear has a fabulous shine to it and the kit pricing is afforable.
I've been using upol primer sealer in the rattle can and have had great results for the a 2 b cars. I would use there clear or the finish 1 works good for a 2 b cars as well
I used U pol clear in a.. Rattle can.. hahahah to spray some small parts on a car. I did it in 2011. Still holding up
That's good
You should use UPol up2802 2:1 high solid clearcoat. It is amazing for the price.
Have a nice day pro regards from Holland
I use the 2253 primer on everything never used that clear though but might give it a try
Never used their bondo , but used their upo700 fiberglass filler and that worked great and seemed to sand easier then most and spread nice and smooth
Slow hardner is the way to go imo
And also yes I’m not big on using new materials haha like you I’m a ppg man use the he’ll out of shopline
Hey Pete....have you ever tried SPI products before? [Southern Polyurethanes} Enjoy your videos...Tony from Tampa
2882 is decent stuff and yes, it's critical to use the slowest hardener possible for the temp range you're spraying in. A splash of slow reducer or even retarder is helpful with Upol, but even better is the 2802 high solids. It has less shrinkage and chance of dieback.
A good stuff thanks pete
Nice review Pete. I have used that clear and noticed that temperature does have a big affect on it. Had results smooth like glass and then not so great and my guess was it was temperature. When I try it again my plan is to lower the pressure if it is warmer. I'm guessing it's viscosity is too thin or light and it sprays dry. What do you think?
Pete you should light up a Doobie while you're pouring and mixing that Clear
Hey Pete on a plastic piece for a car what's the steps you go through from start to finish
thanx 4 all you do bro
Upol is ok... but id pop for atleast ppg shopline. It runs about 160 a gallon here in va. Was like 110 2 years ago
And you think the extra harder and weather played into the way it sanded down? I would think so
I have not used this product before but I have used another "cheap" clearcoat brand; Advantage brand I think it was - it was also around $90/gal. It turned out great initially and looked great for aprox 2 years until it started looking "splotchy" then eventually peeled in small thin sheets away from the basecoat. 5 years later there is hardly any of it left on the top surfaces of my car; it is still hanging on to the sides and places which don't get direct sunlight. So obviously one measure of merit for clearcoat is how long it stays attached to the basecoat paint under the environmental stress of sunlight and maybe heat - I'm not sure what exactly caused it to delaminate. The basecoat is still holding on but is not looking good; it's wearing without the clearcoat on top of it. So, with that all said; do you know how long this brand clearcoat will last in direct sunlight conditions? I am not a professional painter; I D.I.Y painted one car in my life which actually turned out well for ~ 2 years but now looks like crap! Not sure if it was something I did wrong or is a result of just using "cheap" products. My paint shop did have better options for clear but it was like $800 a gallon! I've also been told (by my paint store folks) that single stage paint (basecoat and clear mixed together) is more durable under environmental stress than separate basecoat then clearcoat systems; maybe you could comment on that. Thanks for the informative video.
It looks great!!!
Great job
Hi Pete can you help do you know of any chemical you can put on to Aluminium engine block to remove corrosion without scrubbing ?? Would be much appreciated
I wish I could get that wet wet clear up here in Canada
Matrix ms 30 is great its fast ex gloss too
U pol seems 2 be good stuff
What intercoat clear did you use?
Who else cringed when he grabbed the dirty microfiber to dry the pannel off dammit Pete 😅 but I'm definitely impressed for 100$!!!
looks good to me.😊
Use the really f in hard hardener.
When I had used it it stayed soft for a long time
Yes I would
I really don’t like it but for a cheap bumper repair I works 😂
I used it alot just shine u have to work for it
Pete!
fast hardener this clear shirnks down like shit on the sun.
Upol gold is good
the upol clear is meh at best. dies back and pinches pretty bad. akzonobel imperium/ wanda (same parent company) is significantly better with the gloss retention and not that much more. I think around $120 a gallon
Dc 4000 4 me
Im really getting tired of You Tube with all the adds 😡
So was i until i started useing ADGUARD ADD BLOCKER NO MORE ADDS ON TH-cam .Try it my friend is fantastic