So if you think a billet xp turbo diff with sandcraft boom proof kit is just as good as a rs1 front diff then why do all that extra work? I’m debating doing the rs1 diff swap but if the billet diff is just as good then I would do that first. Let me know what is best. Thanks
Fully built xp diff Is almost the same or the same strength as a STOCK rs1 diff is my opinion. So I’d calculate the cost of the billet case and upgraded internals vs a new or new/used rs1. Like this diff was 1200 and the Coffman bracket was 400 i think. So 1600 and some elbow grease you’re as strong or stronger as fully built xp. With room to upgrade internals if needed. I’d do the rs1 swap over building up a xp diff if it were me.
@Indianahillclimber most rzr front diff ratios are around 3.17:1. TRE is 3.82:1. They’re probably wondering if that gearing difference in the front is gonna bind up the driveline. The only difference in the transmission is gearing. The always say you have to change out the ring gear and pinion shaft to do that swap in a HL or TRE. But the final ratios in the rear are around the same as other rzrs or rzrs with gear reduction so is there really that big of a difference??? The ratio in the front has to be a little different than the rear to let the 4wd work the way they have it work. I need to look more into this…..
@@CrashCitySxSIv always wondered that too. I’m just glad I didn’t buy one of those models. All the parts sellers all they you can’t use their diff parts or their transmission parts in the tre. I’m assuming the different diff gearing is to make the fronts spin even quicker than the rears, making the diff grab that much sooner and harder, but that doesn’t mean doing a gear reduction in the transmission would change any of that. Iv read a lot where people say you can’t rs1 swap the tre, but wouldn’t you just be changing it to a regular drive ratio. Only thing I can think of is if the tre transmissions have a different output gearing to the front driveshaft, I’m not sure if that’s the case and I doubt it would be, like if the snorkel gear had a different gearing then I could see how all of that would be different
Love the "in the shop" video's.
Thanks rev!
RS1 is the way to go for most. Love mine
Scott County ky?
Definitely a lot easier with a plasma cutter. I did this with a cutoff wheel and a dremel and it sucked, bad.
I would honestly hate to have to do it with a cutoff wheel. Hats off to you!!
So if you think a billet xp turbo diff with sandcraft boom proof kit is just as good as a rs1 front diff then why do all that extra work? I’m debating doing the rs1 diff swap but if the billet diff is just as good then I would do that first. Let me know what is best. Thanks
Fully built xp diff Is almost the same or the same strength as a STOCK rs1 diff is my opinion. So I’d calculate the cost of the billet case and upgraded internals vs a new or new/used rs1. Like this diff was 1200 and the Coffman bracket was 400 i think. So 1600 and some elbow grease you’re as strong or stronger as fully built xp. With room to upgrade internals if needed.
I’d do the rs1 swap over building up a xp diff if it were me.
@@CrashCitySxS thanks for your advice. Much appreciated and great video.
@250offroad9 you’re welcome and thanks for watching
When you do a gear reduction, would you have to change the gearing in the diff to match?
No since the front diff is ran straight from the transmission (transaxle) you don’t have to do anything to the front
@@CrashCitySxSHow come I'm told I can't install a RS1 front differential in my TRE because of the gearing?
@Indianahillclimber most rzr front diff ratios are around 3.17:1. TRE is 3.82:1.
They’re probably wondering if that gearing difference in the front is gonna bind up the driveline. The only difference in the transmission is gearing. The always say you have to change out the ring gear and pinion shaft to do that swap in a HL or TRE. But the final ratios in the rear are around the same as other rzrs or rzrs with gear reduction so is there really that big of a difference???
The ratio in the front has to be a little different than the rear to let the 4wd work the way they have it work.
I need to look more into this…..
@@CrashCitySxSIv always wondered that too. I’m just glad I didn’t buy one of those models. All the parts sellers all they you can’t use their diff parts or their transmission parts in the tre. I’m assuming the different diff gearing is to make the fronts spin even quicker than the rears, making the diff grab that much sooner and harder, but that doesn’t mean doing a gear reduction in the transmission would change any of that. Iv read a lot where people say you can’t rs1 swap the tre, but wouldn’t you just be changing it to a regular drive ratio. Only thing I can think of is if the tre transmissions have a different output gearing to the front driveshaft, I’m not sure if that’s the case and I doubt it would be, like if the snorkel gear had a different gearing then I could see how all of that would be different