I run the tru lok harness in my 2017 R & T. It works awesome. I have run it for 3 plus years with no issius. I have just put a tru lok in my 2023 RZR Turbo R.
So im on my 3rd diff rebuild and would like to add some info. I have a 19 turbo S. My first rebuild was the magnet on the armature, for mine it actually threw a code/ check engine light, "AWD Circuit Fault" so I did the same testing you did 2 years ago, magnet wouldnt even hold the armature plate at all. wires were all good, battery was new ish. so I ordered the case half and also did the sandcraft bullet proof diff upgrades and good to go A year later 4x4 wasnt working so I thought great it went bad again. tore it all part and with the switch on it held but would move a little just like yours would. was only getting 10 ish volts tho. so I replaces the battery and bingo! Last week, 4x4 yet again wouldnt engage, tore part AGAIN ! Amateur plate would not move ,but this time I noticed with 4x4 switch off it was still supplying 3.5 volts and the armature plate would stick lightly... so I ordered the tru lok harness and that fixed the voltage issues. but I also noticed my sandcraft sprague had some wear in the cage plate notches "probably from the armature plate sticking. also on my one output hub, the inner piece was spinning...so thats junk and not letting the 4x4 to engage. the hub is around 500$ and you have to get both side with bearings, wish polaris could change it where you could just order the side you need., with or without bearings.
@@SomewhatHaggard I guess I wont mention my transmission problems ive had either hah. I honestly dont even beat on mine, we booze cruise on pretty easy trails. but I am almost 10k miles on it so it just wear and tear.. and its a polaris lol but to up date anyone who read my previous comment. the diff is back in action and working great!! if anyone else has a diff problem thats not electrical it more than likely the hubs.. "the 2 sides the axels spline into" if any part of them spin beside the bearings.. theyre bad. Ive been thinking about somehow welding them. the inner and outter piece, they seemed to be just pressed in and eventually fail. but it more commonly the sprag wears or cracks if youre still running stock
I was having random engagement in my pro xp. I took the diff out and cleaned it really well. And it has been working flawwlessly for 1000 miles. Metal debris was not allowing for it to engage properly. It was just normal metal from wear over 2000 miles. It was a layer on shavings on the magnet side like on a magnet oil drain plug that was interfering.
For this case everything had just been apart and cleaned when the new components were installed. The wiring or magnet in the cover is definitely where the issue came from on her machine.
I just rebuilt mine. I hooked my battery to it to test it, and it engaged. I haven't got the machine back together yet, but I couldn't get more than 10 volts when testing per the service manual's direction. I got 22.8 ohms on the coil. I am hoping I don't have the same issue you are having.
If the magnet does work. It will take hours for the sandcraft armature plate to break in with the magnet cover. The trulok is a gimmick and only works when the ecu doesnt send the power. Took me driving a lot of miles in 4wd to get 4wd working right with an aftermarket armature plate.
@@SomewhatHaggard new magnet and new armature plate don’t take anytime to break in. Using old magnet it takes miles. Awesome you got it working. HD extreme also replaces magnets for a lot cheaper then buying new one. But y’all were on a time crunch.
I run the tru lok harness in my 2017 R & T. It works awesome. I have run it for 3 plus years with no issius. I have just put a tru lok in my 2023 RZR Turbo R.
But did you need trulok?
Love the new Intro Music my man!
Thanks!!
Sounds like the classic weak magnet to me. They do fine cold but when they get warm they get weak so its hard to find.
Yeah it was definitely something with the magnet.
So im on my 3rd diff rebuild and would like to add some info. I have a 19 turbo S. My first rebuild was the magnet on the armature, for mine it actually threw a code/ check engine light, "AWD Circuit Fault" so I did the same testing you did 2 years ago, magnet wouldnt even hold the armature plate at all. wires were all good, battery was new ish. so I ordered the case half and also did the sandcraft bullet proof diff upgrades and good to go
A year later 4x4 wasnt working so I thought great it went bad again. tore it all part and with the switch on it held but would move a little just like yours would. was only getting 10 ish volts tho. so I replaces the battery and bingo!
Last week, 4x4 yet again wouldnt engage, tore part AGAIN ! Amateur plate would not move ,but this time I noticed with 4x4 switch off it was still supplying 3.5 volts and the armature plate would stick lightly... so I ordered the tru lok harness and that fixed the voltage issues.
but I also noticed my sandcraft sprague had some wear in the cage plate notches "probably from the armature plate sticking. also on my one output hub, the inner piece was spinning...so thats junk and not letting the 4x4 to engage. the hub is around 500$ and you have to get both side with bearings, wish polaris could change it where you could just order the side you need., with or without bearings.
Oh damn, what a nightmare!!
@@SomewhatHaggard I guess I wont mention my transmission problems ive had either hah. I honestly dont even beat on mine, we booze cruise on pretty easy trails. but I am almost 10k miles on it so it just wear and tear.. and its a polaris lol
but to up date anyone who read my previous comment. the diff is back in action and working great!! if anyone else has a diff problem thats not electrical it more than likely the hubs.. "the 2 sides the axels spline into" if any part of them spin beside the bearings.. theyre bad.
Ive been thinking about somehow welding them. the inner and outter piece, they seemed to be just pressed in and eventually fail. but it more commonly the sprag wears or cracks if youre still running stock
I was having random engagement in my pro xp. I took the diff out and cleaned it really well. And it has been working flawwlessly for 1000 miles. Metal debris was not allowing for it to engage properly.
It was just normal metal from wear over 2000 miles.
It was a layer on shavings on the magnet side like on a magnet oil drain plug that was interfering.
For this case everything had just been apart and cleaned when the new components were installed. The wiring or magnet in the cover is definitely where the issue came from on her machine.
I just rebuilt mine. I hooked my battery to it to test it, and it engaged. I haven't got the machine back together yet, but I couldn't get more than 10 volts when testing per the service manual's direction. I got 22.8 ohms on the coil. I am hoping I don't have the same issue you are having.
I am wondering why you are hesitant to put 4x3 offset rims on a vehicle
Just don’t wanna add stress to the ball joints, wheel bearings ect.
If the magnet does work. It will take hours for the sandcraft armature plate to break in with the magnet cover. The trulok is a gimmick and only works when the ecu doesnt send the power. Took me driving a lot of miles in 4wd to get 4wd working right with an aftermarket armature plate.
Hmmm she left it in 4wd for 50miles and it worked perfectly for 3 days in Tennessee.
@@SomewhatHaggardwith the old magnet or new?
@thmike the new one
@@SomewhatHaggard new magnet and new armature plate don’t take anytime to break in. Using old magnet it takes miles. Awesome you got it working. HD extreme also replaces magnets for a lot cheaper then buying new one. But y’all were on a time crunch.
Jeremy Nye the Haggard guy??? Are you really a Nye? It caught my attention because i am. Lol.
lol no I was just messing around.