Check this NOW if you own or purchase a Yamaha 2 stroke PWC/Jet boat! Catastrophic oil line issue!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- I see several 2 stroke Yamahas killed every year due to this simple, cheap fix.
The oil injection lines have a tendency to harden over time and slide off the nipples on the carburetors, which then pours oil into your hull and not into the engine where it causes damage and in some cases can cause thrown rods or worse.
It is a time consuming task to get to these hoses, as part of the exhaust needs to be removed, but it isn't too complicated to do, and might just save your engine.
Other brands used Oetiker clamps rather that zip ties to hold those oil lines on and rarely have I seen failure from the lines coming off using those clamps.
Here are some affiliate links to the way I repair all of these failures: (the affiliate links give me a small commission on your purchase at no additional cost to you)
New 1/8 ID 1/4 OD Tygon tubing: amzn.to/2PLxtOq (Some say 3/16 ID is the proper size, I prefer a very tight fit so as to keep them incredibly snug and not pop back off once installed, So I use 1/8 ID even though it may add extra frustration trying to squeeze a smaller line over the barbed fittings)
25 pack Oetiker clamps: amzn.to/2YIin0u
Oetiker clamp pincer (get the 2000387, The newer "14100498" ones look kinda cheesy and have awful reviews compared to the older one like I have which is linked): amzn.to/35lMEo7
Here are some affiliate links to the way I repair all of these failures: (the affiliate links give me a small commission on your purchase at no additional cost to you)
New 1/8 ID 1/4 OD Tygon tubing: amzn.to/2PLxtOq (Some say 3/16 ID is the proper size, I prefer a very tight fit so as to keep them incredibly snug and not pop back off once installed, So I use 1/8 ID even though it may add extra frustration trying to squeeze a smaller line over the barbed fittings)
25 pack Oetiker clamps: amzn.to/2YIin0u
Oetiker clamp pincer (get the 2000387, The newer "14100498" ones look kinda cheesy and have awful reviews compared to the older one like I have which is linked): amzn.to/35lMEo7
Premix and never have a problem again. Play with oil pumps and lines and have a bad day. Very simple.
Premix is the only way to go with older 2-stroke jet skis do not even play with hoping your oil dispenser works
They certainly can be problematic
The Yamaha 700 two cylinder two stroke engine built in the 90's a fantastic motor! It is very durable and simple to work on, quite fuel efficient, and was the most trouble free PWC motor Yamaha ever built, in my humble opinion. The only long term recommendation that I've heard about for these two stroke engines is to eliminate the oil injection system with an oil pump block off plate (simple to install) then pre-mixing oil with the gas. I've had several of these 700 twin cylinder engines and done this to all of them - never had a problem since and I know for sure that my motor is getting lubricated! Hope this helps - :).
Absolutely. The 701, 760, and 1100 "non-pv engines" are super simple and the oil lines are by far the #1 failure point, blocking off is the easiest way to resolve that potential failure point. The PV engines don't have a lot more, just the PV "waveeater clips", or SBT sells a kit to resolve the PVs coming loose and falling into the cylinder. beyond that they're the same as the non-pv engines.
Hey mate I just brought a 700 everything looks and seems clean runs well havnt had it the water yet you reckon blocking the self mix oil system and just premix do you know the ratiothanks
@@shaneparker7441 - Ya, I removed the oil pump on mine about 15 years ago with a block-off plate then just premix the fuel at 40:1, that's 40 parts regular gasoline to 1 part two stroke oil. It's been working great, just rode the ski yesterday on a river!
I bought 2 700s waveraider single cylinder and the guy before me did not block off the oil injection he just started pre mixing the gas and ran tank dry .I want to start using the tank but am afraid the pump is shot any help on what I should do would be appreciated!
I have a 2001 xl 800 24 years I’m the only owner that owned it I bought it brand new everything is still factory never been rebuilt these TH-cam videos people post about this is questionable in my opinion its people damaging the engines I personally don’t pre mix you have to constantly keep pouring oil in the fuel to keep the cylinders Lubed .! Like i said I’m living proof never had any issues with oil lines I Laugh when see people doing this .😁👍
I block off my both my 1100 cc wave ventures about 10 yrs ago and they are still running good.
I'm doing a block off on a 1200cc Yamaha SUV (non pv motor) as well as replacing the engine because it lost an oil line and knocked a hole in the case. Blocking off is the most reliable way to ensure your engine is getting the oil it needs!
YES! I do a Pre mix!!!!
Meanwhile, I changed both the Start/Stop Box and Starter Solenoid and check led the fuse all new! The starter will engage and turn the motor over when I jump to two poles on the solenoid but I still don't have any power going up to my start switch could this be a bad CDI?
No it will be the start stop switch. Or a blown fuse
Yup just found same issue. 2005 gp800r cylinder #2 oil injection line came off.
Luckily found it early compression is still good and equal on both cylinders
Might pull the head tomorrow to inspect further. Great catch
The Yamaha engines aren't bad to pull a head on, but sometimes I like using a borescope through the spark plug holes, might not be as perfect of an assessment but you can see if cylinders are really scored up or something. Hopefully you caught it before any real damage was done!
Also, what disassembly is required to look at these lines?
Would putting a small house clamp on these 2 lines fix the issue?
Would premixing the gas solve this problem? Been thinking about just installing a block-off kit on the oil pumps and premixing the gas to avoid anything breaking without me knowing...
Yes, premixing would ensure you're always getting oil as long as someone riding doesn't forget to premix
But you cant premix on a fuel injected model.
Correct, carbureted models only! Premixing on a FI ski will eventually clog the injectors and that'll ruin your day at the lake in a different but yet similar engine destroying way
@@Metakythera technically premixing is only for race use. You know why? Because they dont give a shit about the longevity of their race rigs. When the race is over they rebuild them anyways.
If you know fuck all about carburetors and the change in viscosity between pure gasoline and 2 stroke pre mixed gasoline. Youd learn that not only does the crank not get lubricated correctly. It also doesnt get cooled correctly or lubricated in the right spot.
Add to that the more important point.
Your carburetor was never designed or jetted for a premix application. I have raced two strokes all my life. Been a professional mechanic and fabricator for nearly a decade and been trained by the best in the business.
Oil doesn't atomize when mixed with fuel your jets also arent big enough for the change in viscosity.
Good recommendation!! Wish I would have seen this earlier!!! Trashed a motor on a beautiful GP1200r last year because of this.. only had 27 hours on it. ;(
Ah nuts! That's such a shame! The GPs are super fun skis, I've got a super good friend that has one, they rival nearly any modern ski for performance, and are way nimbler because of weighing so much less.
@@trythistv Yup!! I've got a buddy who's relatively new to jet skiing (he can barely comprehend a ski without reverse LOL) and hes flabbergasted that my three cylinder non-supercharged ski is only three MPH slower than his GP1800.. at 1/3 the price!
you may have answered already, but whats the replacement or fix hose look like to remedy this? does it come with crimp on or screw down hose clamps? whats the resolution for these hoses popping off?
The solution I have used is listed in the description, you'll need Tygon fuel line and oetiker pinch clamps along with the tool.
I have not had an issue with the hoses coming off after this kind of repair at all. Here is the info:
New 1/8 ID 1/4 OD Tygon tubing: amzn.to/2PLxtOq (Some say 3/16 ID is the proper size, I prefer a very tight fit so as to keep them incredibly snug and not pop back off once installed, So I use 1/8 ID even though it may add extra frustration trying to squeeze a smaller line over the barbed fittings)
25 pack Oetiker clamps: amzn.to/2YIin0u
Oetiker clamp pincer (get the 2000387, The newer "14100498" ones look kinda cheesy and have awful reviews compared to the older one like I have which is linked): amzn.to/35lMEo7
Hopefully this helps you get your ski ready for summer! We just went riding yesterday!
We’ve had our ‘97’s for about 20yrs and just noticed oil leak. Great article. Do you have any clips for a plugged lower side port.
I'm not sure what you mean by "clips for a plugged lower side port"? But noticing that oil leak could save your engine, make sure those lines from the pump to the carbs are healthy! Doesn't cost much to replace them!
This is a well known point of failure on these machines which is why I converted mine to premix.
Yup, exactly why I made the video, pretty much every 2 stroke yamaha PWC engine failure I've seen was these oil lines. The little gear pumps basically never fail unlike some of the diaphragm pumps some outboards use.
You run 40:1 or 50:1 wich is better im about to covert mine?
@@joseacd01 I run 50:1 synthetic 2 stroke oil, smokes at idle, but no worries.
Problem I have is going through sparkplugs after bypassing tge oil pump
Thanks for pointing this out. I have two Yamaha skis (WB760 and GP1200). I guess a good upgrade would be to use sprung fuel line clips rather than cable ties?
Absolutely, I'm a big fan of the Oetiker style clamps, but spring clamps would be a massive upgrade from the zip-ties that get brittle with age and slide off.
I have a 1200 that we got used and rode it around for a bit until it dropped to half its top speed so I checked the compression and that front cylinder had 0 PSI. I ended up pulling the head and sure enough the piston had a hole in it and melted to the cylinder, scoring it. I am still in the process of honing it out but I had to buy oversized rings so it will probably be a 1220 CC motor now 😂
Check those oil lines, or premix it. Also if it's a PV motor check that the power valve linkage stuff is upgraded, the pins can walk out and drop the PV into the cylinders unless you install a little clip thing on them, or they have the updated lever link things
I blew up my 96 WaveRaider... nuked the rear piston. All oil lines are attached... still researching why it overheated... but the way the cooling system is, I think it is likely lack of oil since the other two pistons are pristine. I’m putting a lcd temp gauge on mine when I get it back together... and thinking of going to premixed gas.
Check your carb tuning too, lack of oil is a fast killer, a lean air fuel will melt stuff more slowly but still cause severe damage over time. Going to premix will certainly prevent issues with oiling, but if something is askew causing the rear cyl to run lean, it won't prevent lack of oil because you'll still have a lack of fuel. I'd say it is more likely the nozzle got clogged or something went wrong with the hose, but if it's still attached then that rules out most of that.
Failing crank seals will cause a lean condition and you'll melt pistons
Yup luckily I think i caught mine early enough before it did damage
A little oil mixed with the fuel will prevent damage, even at 100:1 it'll keep stuff lubricated and cooled better than no oil at all, but the best thing to do is replace the lines and oetiker clamp them or block it off and go premix, as these machines are getting older and this will become more and more common as time goes on and the rubber lines harden up. Glad you caught yours before you needed an engine!
Quick note- these cylinders generally cannot be honed, as they are Nikasil plated. The plating is very thin and honing destroys this thin plating.
Yep, very good point. Honing will remove the plating, which removes all the benefits of the nikasil coating, so it would be on par for longevity and such as the other manufacturers plain steel bores. A bunch of the engine builders, cylinder exchange, resleeve and aftermarket replacements are uncoated, so it is something important to check when repairing a yamaha pwc engine
Hey Jon - where can I find out which Yamaha 2 stroke Wave Runners used this Nikasil plating - ?
HEY TRY! I have a 1996 Yamaha Wave Raider 1100! Useully runs great! But it stalled twice on me out there....installed new Start/Stop Switch Box & new Starter Solenoid! When I jump the Solenoid terminals it cranks over fine! Nothing when I hit the Green Start Button!!! There in No Power to the White Start/Stop Connector comming from the CDI Box!!!
Any idea's?
When you installed the new start solenoid, was there a small red wire connected to one of the terminals? Did you make sure to get that back on the right one? I've got a waveraider 1100 I'm planning on doing a video about sometime... It's a bit rough though. We'll see if I can get it running again lol
I actually had tried with the red wire hooked to both of the terminals didn't make a difference at all! The problem I'm having is no power out of the CDI box to the white connector that plugs into the start stop box so I need to try to figure out how to trace it back and see where it's losing power?
Thanks for your advice.
@trythistv what is the primer kit you mentioned in a previous comment? My 02 xlt1200 runs great but can be a hard starter when cold also what oil do you recommend I’m running yamalube 2w like the manual says at the moment but it’s like $36/gallon is there a cheaper option? FYI I’m premixed
Thanks
Something along these lines is what you'd want for a primer kit, and man it will totally change your life. amzn.to/2Poa8pQ
As far as oil, being premix you've got plenty of options, any half decent tc-w3 oil will work perfectly fine. I would run down to whatever auto parts store, or even walmart and pick up gallons of tc-w3 oil and enjoy your ski!
Never remove your choke plates. These carbs in the yamahas have a lean issue in the midrange severe enough to case detonation or even 4 corner scoring. Its impossible to tune this midrange lean out and its where youll spend most of your time riding your ski.
You need to rebuild your carbs if it takes a while to start or check compression. Even as simple as bad or broken reeds or sticky power valves
I wonder if I replaced the oil injector lines with copper lines ...would it be a good idea?
I suppose it could work, I would worry about vibration fracturing it over time, and making a connection that didn't leak at each end could prove troublesome, soldering or brazing in an enclosed hull on fuel system parts may be a tad risky if nothing else for the rubber seals and such. I'm quite a fan of Viton lines as they're quite stiff but very resilient, I usually buy from mcmaster carr.
Great video, really helpful
Glad it was helpful!
My 2strokes are all premixed. I remove every oil pump and out a block off plate in all my skis
Easy way to ensure you're getting oil! As long as anyone riding knows to mix the oil and not just put gas in!
I just replace the oil lines and check valves. Make sure that it’s blood and adjusted properly. And watch the real slow through clear lines. I actually really like the system
@@trythistv yep. I.mix all my fuel before I leave the house or if I get some from the pump I out oil in before I leave and then add fuel at the gas station.
@@FireTruckTech22 I like knowing that it will never run out of oil period. I mix my own fuel so I know how.much it has evertime. It's really not that hard. Add the fuel in a can vs in the oil reserve haha
@@jeffbryner5355 I know it’s not hard. But I’ve never had a problem with the oil system. The pump is solid and it’s just a valve that opens. I just don’t think it’s as bad as a system as some people make it out to be
Wow who puts zip tie on oil line must be stupidest idea ever I would change every one of these with clamps
Yamaha is the idiot that put zip ties on the oil lines... From the factory... Moving to the oetiker clamps like I use on every single one I touch is peace of mind for me, and less issues for my customers long term!
I just got a yamaha 800 and is asking me for oil
So I wondering which oil does it need motor oil transmission oil or gas mix what kind of oil is asking for how many types of oil does it use
Usually the oil indicator on the dash means the oil tank is low, you'd just want to fill it with a decent TC-W3 2 stroke oil and go have some fun.
The only other real case is if yours has been converted to run premix, Which you could tell by looking at the front of the engine, at around 0:54 I show the oil pump, if yours has a plate rather than the pump with hoses bolted to the front cover then it is converted to premix in which case you should continue mixing fuel and oil like you probably already have been.
yamaha xlt 1200 2003 40:1 mixture is good for my machine? some people are saying 50:1 some people are saying 40:1
I've always run 50:1 in all my 2 stroke PWCs and equipment in general, it has worked well for me.
What a great video!
I have a 2007 GP1300R and the oil lines was so close to coming off, started leaking a little bit of oil at the cylinder. I used 7mm compression crimp clamps and they will never come off. If you want pictures let me know, it won't let me upload any here.
I suspect those clamps are nearly identical to the oetiker clamps I used, they look like the clamps often used for pex plumbing pipe sold at lowes and any hardware store. and boy you are right, those will never ever come off, such a massive upgrade the the little tiny zip ties that yamaha used at the factory!
@@trythistv I'll send u a pic by email or text if you want. I need to just make a video of it and how to prime the oil lines with new empty oil hoses installed
Sure! send it to trythisathometv (AT) gmail (DOT) com, Getting those lines taken care of is a lot of peace of mind, they've killed far too many skis!
@@trythistv sending now.
Got it! yep those are the exact same clamps I used, and they are awesome! the line will tear in half, or the nipple will come out of the carb long before the clamp will let loose! Never need to worry about it again!
My gp1200r smokes on startup as soon as I run smokes gone?
I would check these hoses as well as the cable to the pump to make sure you are getting enough oil, and the cable moves freely with throttle movement, there should be a slight amount of smoke, not billowing clouds by any means but if the hoses, pump or inline filter or other things are restricting your oil flow it could be catastrophic left unchecked.
Thanks. Very helpful
Glad it was helpful! Just had a XLT1200 show up that I suspect has been bitten by this problem.
Premix ftw
We have a bunch of 650s and 701s. We have converted them all to premix.
Premix is night and day safer, you know you're getting oil if the engine runs. Unless someone forgets and doesn't add oil, but still, a lot less likely to burn something up because a hose decides to harden up and slide off.
I'm repairing a xlt1200 right now that had a line slide off the nipple on the carb. Happens all the time!
I have a 97 yamaha waverunner 760,I can start the ski and after 10 seconds,it will turn off on its own,it won't start again until I disconnect the battery,its like there is no power at all to anything,I can disconnect the battery and it will start again,I have replaced the CDI,and its doing the same thing,I took apart the start/stop button and cleaned it and my ski is doing the same thing.can someone out there give me and idea?
Does it have the security stuff set up by chance? I've seen them do some weird stuff. Aside from that, I'd pull the electrical box apart and start looking around, gotta be some bad wire, temp sensor, fuse, or something that isn't making contact.
@@trythistv i don't know about the security system but it will stay on for 5to10 seconds most of the time and then I can turn it off and that's when it has no power,my Guages doesn't work neither,would that have something to do with it?
The oil pump, and oil lines, have killed as many motors, as they have kept running. Delete the oil pump, and premix, ftw, those oiling systems run too rich or too lean anyhow.
So true, I generally always recommend switching to premix. Sadly 9/10 of my customers don't want to premix, I've highly recommended it to several and generally everyone goes "well, converting to premix will prevent my engine from failing in the same way again, and be dirt cheap to do, but what will it cost to just fix the oil pump, I'd rather not have to remember to mix my gas"... 😭
That’s what I did in my 94 waverunner 701
I just deleted my oiler. Screw even worrying about it I can mix the gas myself
Thats the sure fire way to know you're getting oil. Works every time as long as you're the one filling the tank!