I’m not the kind of model builder who builds for realism. With some of the models I’ve build, I have incorporated some painting techniques so the model looks weathered but that’s about it. That said, what you’ve done is next lvl in terms of weathering and realism; at least from my view point. It looks great! It speak to your creativity and sets you apart from average Joe’s like me who would have just primed and painted the hull straight up! Thanks for sharing. I was genuinely inspired.
as a former squid, most of the ships stationed in Japan had this effect. the wave action pushes the Skin of the ship into the ribs/internal bracing. we called it "waffle hull" from the obvious reference. if your ship encounters Heavy seas for a prolonged period of time = waffle hull.
oil canning, tin canning.... those may be terms for the modelling technique used to replicate the effect. But the phenomena itself is referred to as HULL DISHING. It is also generally only noticeable along the font portion of the hull, not the full length. generally around where the Bow flairs our to full hull width. It is caused by wave action slamming the hull and dishing in the hull plating between the hull's structural support frames.
Hull Dishing!!!! Thank you! You know.... it seems like there are a lot of things like this that we see out in the world and no knows what they are called.
@@keithwhisman Yeah the Midway is awesome!!! I was really stunned to see all the hull dishing on it when I first walked up to it. That museum tour is great. If you ever get a chance to see her sister ship, USS Lexington, in Corpus Christi, I highly recommend it as well. That ship's air conditioning is on point, too ; ) Makes the visit even more fun!
(NOTE: Nigel at "Nigel's Modeling Bench" on YT did the dent thing on his Missouri hull as well). I pointed this out in the first vid, but the shp's hull experienced "dishing," which is what the dents on a Navy ship's hull are known as. "Tin-canning" is more related to Navy destroyers, more familiarly called "tin cans" by Navy folks. They're also known as "small boys" or -- in WWII, when it came to destroyer escorts (DEs) on North Atlantic convoy duty -- "grayhounds." Smalls boys (DDs, DEs, even fast frigates or FFs) were thin-hulled and lightweight, but they could be turned out amazingly quickly. Not so with battleships. As I found out when I was one of many, many who helped restore the Mighty Mo to her WWII glory back in '98, much of the dishing occurred over the many decades of her life, and not necessarily from her WWII service particularly, which was of relatively limited duration, except for her combat actions, of course. Any time Navy ships warp or kedge into and out of a pier ("warping" and "kedging" are more sailing-era terms but they're very descriptive) there's likely to be dishing as a result... expect when some dumb junior officer happens to ding the ship when he's parking it. That's totally on him, then. ;-)
WOW, it looks AWESOME that being said, one you didn't take in consideration is she was only a year or so in action. The thickness is a lot thicker than on a tin can so these dents would have not been as "tin canned" in August of 1945. These came about more from time than use. You have done such an AWESOME job that even hated to have to tell you this. Keep it up, I'm LOVING IT!!!! FYI guys, I served on board her in the late 80s and 90s!
The "oil canning" is a good creative touch! Some oil canning on ship hills is when welding was done on the outside before the inside is completely finished.
now that looks nice I would never have the guts to take a scraper to such an expensive kit. I switched over to Acrylic paint 2 years ago and i love it and so does the wife, so much less smell and i love how fast it drys.
You mentioned the kamikaze dent. I was glad you did and I'm looking forward to seeing you replicate it. I haven't seen anyone else even try to do that. The oil canning is a great addition that adds a lot of realism to the model. I admire your dedication.
Yes. I have been thinking about this a lot. I'm looking for some solid info on where exactly the dent is. There are lots of pictures of the "dent" online, but I'm not seeing any good reference points for where that is at on the starboard side. I know it's towards the aft near a 5" gun mount.... but I don't know for sure. If you have a link or reference of the exact spot, that would be great to know!!! Thanks!
Looks amazing and definitely makes a difference in the end. A couple techniques that have helped me with the hull dishing in the past is to prime it with a coat or two and then start on the hull dishing with a curved scraper. Scraping into the primer has really helped with a softer effect instead of going right into pure plastic. I used one of those extra soft pillows with the ripped up foam pieces in it to rest the hull on and it let me position/prop up the hull at all different angles which made it a lot easier to work on. Definitely helps with the scraping when it’s not totally parallel to the table. Looks 👍
Now that is some valuable information!!! I did a lot of "experimenting" before I filmed. And on the starboard side I arrived at your method of priming first. It definitely makes it easier to see what you've removed. If I had this to do over again, I would have done that first. And I would have moved ahead with a lot more confidence knowing that a little sanding and the paint layers really help sort everything out.
Wave action,warping from welds, and being pushed by tugs for 70+years. She, the NJ, and the Iowa were usually berthed at the secondary carrier piers(2&3) near us in Norfolk back in the mid-late 80s. I was stationed aboard Concord AFS5, we were always berthed at pier 4 northside whenever we weren't overseas during our Med Cruises. We served with the Big Mo, Iowa,NJ, America, JFK, Forrestal battle groups from 86-89. We were present the day when the Iowa had her #2 turrent incident. I have yet to visit the Iowa again, even tho I only live an hour away in SoCal.
Battleships, in fact Naval vessels of all kinds suffer dings, dents and bashes. When HMS Glamorgan had a catastrophic boiler room fire they had no steam to power the fire pumps. So they sealed off the burning boiler room and starved the fire of air. The resulting vacuum caused the hull to suck inwards by 6 inches on each side. They never tried to get the dents out so she spent the last 10 years of her life with a wonderful wave shape down her length. I was in the Royal Navy at the time and saw her like this.
Nice work and always appreciate the finer details. @28:00 the "vents" are actually for dumping the empty shell casings into the sea and clearing the deck of the gun emplacement. The "hot shell man" would wear asbestos gloves or pads and shove them out a door in the deck.
Ok.. every US warship I visited looked like you could kick your foot right thru the hull... you are correct, the hulls of US warships are dented very much so and very noticeable. I am impressed with your bold attempt to create that realism to your kit....BRAVO ZULU!
Great job. That 53" challenge is gonna look great. Thanks for showing all you work. Card scrapping is the best method, your on it. The problem is the divot "depth" is much less and using the massive tools in scale is tough to get the effect. They would be less noticeable but there. Light drags on the scrapper. What a project.
Yeah keep in mind that the divers get filled with paint. So it ends up being significantly shallower that what you see. In fact, I have a hard time even seeing them now. You can feel them. They are there. But it worked out nicely.
The tin canning came out great, it's a nice touch that you don't see much of. I do agree with the bigger scales did some more detail on the hulls. There is a sight, Scale Model Workshop Paul Budzik . He dose lots of videos on panel lines, hull plates and detailing. Not that you need the help.
I really appreciate the research you put into building this representation. It’s about as flawless as your model building. You’re off to a great start. Thus is going to be another awesome build!
Even though you may not be completely happy with the final result, I think your persistence has paid off and it looks pretty darn good. Thanks for sharing, great video.
Looking great Ben she looks like a monster of a kit. If you can get your hands on a magazine called full ahead they show you how to do a 3d effect on tin canning. Check it out as it gives you great idea on how to tackle problems in ship building I hope this info helps.
I'm building my first ever ship model rn, aoshima hiryu, and this vidoe got me motivated to do more than just basic work on it! Thank you Midwest model shop!
Kevin Harbeson I agree completely. I’m assuming 99% of individuals watching this video have never even thought about doing it, yet alone trying. I was hoping to share how one might attempt it.
You are doing a really fine detail job on that ship. I went to see the Arizona Memorial in Hawaii . The Missouri was berthed further down and you are point with the oil canning. Job well done. I have scene this effect on modern commercial ships at the Port of Houston Bay Port Facility when I was on patrol as a police officer.
The texture looks great brother. I would've never done it to mine because I probably would've screwed it up. But you're canning dents look great. I'm not gonna lie, it's hard for me to do but you pretty much pulled it off. Looking great brother.
Even modern steel ships have indentations between the frames. It's caused by the shell being welded to the beams that make up the frames due to heat and easily seen by sunlight at certain angles. It is far more noticeable where the shell is thinner such as the deck houses. As the shell moves over the machinery spaces it is much thicker and even more so over the ballast tanks where it is up to two inches thick and nonexistent.
For oil canning, I would have tried using a Dremel tool with an appropriate burring bit. I think it would be both easier to work with and much quicker.
Yeah that was my very first thought. The problem is you have to go slow enough so you remove the plastic and not melt it. But then you’ll be left with a rough surface. Which you’ll have to figure out how best to smooth without removing the very subtle indentations you made. And then there is the control issue. If you slip at all....you’ll have to do a lot of filling. But you’re right. It “could” work out really well. I’m pleased with the results I got. They don’t stand out, just like on the real thing. But if you look at the hulk from the right angle you suddenly see them. Just like on the real thing.
Thanks Rob! Once I start a fun project like this I really try to work on it whenever I can. It's unfortunate that my training event is when it is. But oh well! Gotta make money to cover the hobby!
Navy Blue is a very dark blue. Some mistake it for black. If anything you'd be looking for a bluish gray (aka: haze gray). ModelMaster has a Haze Gray of the WWII era "5-H Haze Gray," which has a purple/blue tint.
Very nice start. I'm impressed with your efforts to push the envelope, and your philosophy that the main thing is to have fun... after all it IS just a hobby and not life or death. I followed your Arizona build and ended up building my own... and then I took on the Missouri for good measure. There is a well published photo of the hulk of the Oklahoma (very close in size to the Arizona) tied up next to the Wisconsin which dramatically shows the difference in size and fittings between the capital ships of the two eras. You will have an interesting display should you choose to pose your two builds in proximity. I used both the MK and Eduard products on the Arizona, and the two Pontos products (Eduard hull plates, as well) on the Missouri. I'm close to finishing up the Missouri, and have a fair amount of surplus photo-etch between the two builds. Should you run into an issue or two and require replacement pieces don't hesitate to let me know and I might be able to provide at no cost. Again, keep up the good work.
I'm sure you could have used a Dremel tool with multiple abrasive bits, to do the hull denting. Would have saved time too. Think it would come out a bit more rib conformed? Great job! Many would not do this detail, maybe the model company could have included an extra bow section with hull denting, $$$$? Or include something to apply to the hull, like the zimuret on the German tank models. Vahevala!
Very interesting and very informative videos you have already uploaded. I'm also getting ready little by little for the construction, (after first completing the Bismarck that I already have and am in the construction stage)) and I have started the research My opinion is that I will get a lot of help from you I am currently looking for information on the manufacture of Is there a related video?? I saw in episode no 2 The preparation for the > but not for the > maybe you have video efforts on the way they are made I would be very happy if I could learn from you. Again, congratulations on all the work
Great work! It took guts to start carving stressed skin in such a valuable kit and your mapping of the framing was clear and concise. Your build will help me when I come to work on my kit. I hope your training goes well and I look forward to the next instalment.
Hey Ron, I'm into this about $700 US. for this thing. You're mileage may vary depending upon where you get the kit, the Pontos kit, and how much paint you already own. I could have cut the price in half with just buying the kit. And spent just $150 bucks on the detail set if I had gone with a different manufacturer. But Pontos, supposedly, is the best one you can get. So far, with the exception of the hull plating, nothing has been overlooked. The PE will be the bulk of this build, for sure. Then you will probably want a display base and case for it. I will be building those myself and the cost will be negligible. But if you have to have those items made.... well a new case could easily run you another 3-400 bucks. But, yeah, I'll keep all the cost "in mind" as I go and ask again when it's finished. A little google search can get you a ball park idea of the cost of things.
Hoy mate, good job. I like the oil canning with the half round scraper. This is a very intresting model. I enjoy building in large scales. I'll have to think about this one. I lean towards sailing ships but I do have a few large WW2 ships. Thank you for the videos and your dedication. New subscriber,
Thanks!!! I have a few all wood sailing ship kits that I’ve build/have started. I enjoy working on them when I feel like my plastic model kit skills have stalled out.
I'm actually thinking about putting a semi gloss coat on the hull...I've heard some stories about that being accurate anyway. But the idea is it would help reflect light from the right angles so you could see it better.
I am amazed at the efforts you make to achieve the weathering effects (tin-canning). IMO, any lack of satisfaction YOU may feel over the result is amply compensated by your desire for excellence at, and devotion to, your craft! Having said that, if your aim is to depict Missouri as in Aug '45, she was barely a year old. Your "ageing" efforts would perhaps be more appropriate to the Korean War era. Or perhaps even Desert Storm.
Next time try this method use flite metal adhesive tape and use burnishing tools to perform the tin canning effects. You will have to sand the flitemetal with various grades of sandpaper in order to get the paint to stick. Just search flitemetal on TH-cam to see if this will help you out.
I have been on this great Battleship when she was docked in Bremerton WA before being decommissioned in Pearl Harbor and is moored next to the Arizona Memorial.
That is just about the length of 1/72 scale submarine kits. Probably close to the wingspan of the 1/32 scale B-24 by HK. I think it looks fine. Even the bow. Forge ahead. You got a good build going & got the massive painting done on the hull. Good to see builds of stuff I wouldn't want given to me. Too big. I share your preference in Model master enamel. I do not mind solvent smells & like how enamel works. It torments me that they are discontinuing that line.
I’m doing the same thing as Brian the hobbyboss 1/350 scale Arizona. Been talking to him for so pointers. I have the Arizona book by the same guy ordered. The Missouri is looking good. You show check out what I’m doing on the Arizona could use more help or criticism on it lol. Keep going buddy.
I worked in ship construction for 30 years and hull dishing (as opposed to collision damage) is caused by the welding process. welding the frames to shell plates causes this distortion. you don't see hull dishing on riveted ships.
@@TheMidwestModelShop im thinking if you hold the iron a bit away from the surface with the right shape bit it might work .why not give it a try on a spare bit of plastic and see what it looks like .
you could have used an ice pick (fine point) and with a small wood hammer made the rivet heads yourself flip them over for the effect and glued in place.
Just started my ship as well. I have a bit of an advantage as I work on the ship so if you need a photo here or there let me know. Would be happy to snap one for you.
You look good with that huge kit. I don't have a room big enough to build that one. I do small wood ship models mostly. Midwest Products kits, still available on eBay.
Hi I'm going to order a deck replacement for my 1:350 USS Arizona . So if you don't mind if I tell John at Scale Deck that you mentioned his business on your first video . Also you mentioned the faze 22 color scheme for the USS Arizona . I've come across this and compared to some rare color photos prior to Dec 7 - 1940 The ships in Battleship row where Not the dark sea blue that you mentioned . The ships where a Mid to Light Sea Gray . The Faze 22 was used later on several of the surviving and recovered Battleships one of which I speak is the USS Nevada at Iwo Jima with the uppermost of the superstructure a Light Gray to White . According to the article the USS Arizona would not have this color scheme . A lot of people have been mistaken in missidentifing the burnt ships as the dark navy blue , again the ships in Battleship Row where a Mid to Light Gray with the upper superstructure a white or lighter gray .
Yes, please mention it to him. I actually had an email exchange with him about this build before I started. He plans on designing the 1/200 Missouri deck later this summer. Sooooo.... let him know that if he gets it done sometime in August or September to email me and I will order one for this build.
I currently have the 1/200 scale Titanic, Arizona, and Missouri. I know your not fully done with Titanic yet, but out of those 3 which was your favorite build.
Well…. The Missouri looks the best when finished. However, the Arizona is a much shorter build. And has a lot of unique features. The Titanic is unique and you’ll never get tired of assembling guns with her. But I think Missouri was my favorite, in the end. However… I have CV-6 now. And plans to make a sea going diorama with it. So we will see.
I thought photo etch was over priced till i watched how its done then never complained about it again. The materials, printer, software, chemicals and time involved in photo etching is pretty extensive.
The "tin canning" could (should?) have been designed into the kit itself, avoiding the need for this additional work. Anyway the end result seems very realistic. ...It would be cool to install RC gear, motor, etc and convert this kit into a floating, functioning RC model.
I'm building a 1/200 HMS Hood by Trumpeter and I'm picking a couple tips here and there from these videos, but I steadfastly refuse to mutilate it by trying to make it look like it just came off a used boat lot in the south side. If that's someones cup of tea, so be it. I've never believed in displaying anything to show it at it's worst.
This is the age old argument of 'as issued' or 'used'. personally I don't mind it so long as it makes sense for the ship in the time it is being depicted. for instance on this build I think it makes sense to add it since the ship does have significant dishing in pictures from the time the ship is meant to be depicted, However if you added it to your model of Hood I wouldn't agree with it since Hood never showed evidence of it at any point in it's service life. Like you said though to each their own. P.s. that 1/200 scale HMS Hood must be an absolute behemoth. I did one in 1/350 scale and remember it being a monster, that's why I prefer 1/700 scale now their far more manageable to build and display
That's an awesome model, can't wait to see it finished. Ben, have you ever built an I-400 Japanese sub with the stow away planes and flight deck? I know a model exist but would like to hear a builders opinion on it.
hey just found your channel. great videos i appreciate the time you take to do this. i’m planning on buying a similar missouri model that is 1:350. it will be my second model ever and i’m worried i will somehow mess it up. any tips or tricks for the missouri in particular or just models in general?
Just take your time and try to enjoy it verses “making it perfect”. It’s a hobby and it’s supposed to be fun! Pick one thing you want to try and really get right. Focus your energy on that one part. For the rest of the model, just build it. If you do that with each build, you’ll have a serious set of skills in no time.
Beautiful! I am starting my Trumpeter Iowa-class ship, but before I do, I need help! I have been looking for a guide showing all the guy wires, antennas, cables, and misc lines for a WW2 Iowa-class battleship; I mean all of them. Yes, I have looked online. There must be a book or something...does the above-mentioned book feature this? Thanks!
Outside Beyond I was just thinking about that today. So this book is mostly a “history” of the ship. But there are WAY more pictures here than I’ve found anywhere else. I’m hoping it will provide that information. I wouldn’t let that stop you from starting the build, however. There is A LOT to do before you get to that stage 😉. Hoping to have another video update out by the end of next week.
Absolutely love your video. You've got me convinced to build one myself. Your videos are well organized, and informative. You do great work. One small piece of criticism: I wish you had used better lighting so we can see your work better. Keep up the great work! Thank you!
Yes and Yes. So the tiny parts on a 1/350 scale ship are much more manageable in this scale and that makes thing much easier. However, because this ship is so much larger, suddenly very small details that you wouldn't see on the 1/350 scale ship suddenly becomes visible and are modeled. Now you're right back to where you started. But, you could always opt to skip that stuff!
Glade to see your under way I orderd the upgrade parts today for that Sturling kit I will be doing BB61 that is because I am a ham operator and I had contacted that ship by radio.
I’m not the kind of model builder who builds for realism. With some of the models I’ve build, I have incorporated some painting techniques so the model looks weathered but that’s about it. That said, what you’ve done is next lvl in terms of weathering and realism; at least from my view point. It looks great! It speak to your creativity and sets you apart from average Joe’s like me who would have just primed and painted the hull straight up! Thanks for sharing. I was genuinely inspired.
Thanks Gary! I just try to do a good job.
The Midwest Model Shop no one can deny how awesome the results are. You’re certainly doing great. Watching the next one as we speak
as a former squid, most of the ships stationed in Japan had this effect. the wave action pushes the Skin of the ship into the ribs/internal bracing. we called it "waffle hull" from the obvious reference. if your ship encounters Heavy seas for a prolonged period of time = waffle hull.
oil canning, tin canning....
those may be terms for the modelling technique used to replicate the effect.
But the phenomena itself is referred to as HULL DISHING.
It is also generally only noticeable along the font portion of the hull, not the full length. generally around where the Bow flairs our to full hull width.
It is caused by wave action slamming the hull and dishing in the hull plating between the hull's structural support frames.
Great piece of info. Yep, structural support frames, or "stiffeners" I think as I remember they are called.
Hull Dishing!!!! Thank you! You know.... it seems like there are a lot of things like this that we see out in the world and no knows what they are called.
I’ve seen the hull dishing or oil canning on the rear of ships as well like the USS Midway in San Diego.
@@keithwhisman Yeah the Midway is awesome!!! I was really stunned to see all the hull dishing on it when I first walked up to it. That museum tour is great. If you ever get a chance to see her sister ship, USS Lexington, in Corpus Christi, I highly recommend it as well. That ship's air conditioning is on point, too ; ) Makes the visit even more fun!
Damn you got me reading about the Iowa class battle ships. It had an armoured citidel that could stop 16" shells! What an amazing ship.
IMO the "oil canning" on the hull is stunning and brings ship to life. Kudos! Look forward to seeing the finished and weathered Missouri.
(NOTE: Nigel at "Nigel's Modeling Bench" on YT did the dent thing on his Missouri hull as well). I pointed this out in the first vid, but the shp's hull experienced "dishing," which is what the dents on a Navy ship's hull are known as. "Tin-canning" is more related to Navy destroyers, more familiarly called "tin cans" by Navy folks. They're also known as "small boys" or -- in WWII, when it came to destroyer escorts (DEs) on North Atlantic convoy duty -- "grayhounds." Smalls boys (DDs, DEs, even fast frigates or FFs) were thin-hulled and lightweight, but they could be turned out amazingly quickly. Not so with battleships. As I found out when I was one of many, many who helped restore the Mighty Mo to her WWII glory back in '98, much of the dishing occurred over the many decades of her life, and not necessarily from her WWII service particularly, which was of relatively limited duration, except for her combat actions, of course. Any time Navy ships warp or kedge into and out of a pier ("warping" and "kedging" are more sailing-era terms but they're very descriptive) there's likely to be dishing as a result... expect when some dumb junior officer happens to ding the ship when he's parking it. That's totally on him, then. ;-)
WOW, it looks AWESOME that being said, one you didn't take in consideration is she was only a year or so in action. The thickness is a lot thicker than on a tin can so these dents would have not been as "tin canned" in August of 1945. These came about more from time than use.
You have done such an AWESOME job that even hated to have to tell you this. Keep it up, I'm LOVING IT!!!! FYI guys, I served on board her in the late 80s and 90s!
You're amazing Ryback, its a shame you're not cooking for us.
The "oil canning" is a good creative touch! Some oil canning on ship hills is when welding was done on the outside before the inside is completely finished.
now that looks nice I would never have the guts to take a scraper to such an expensive kit. I switched over to Acrylic paint 2 years ago and i love it and so does the wife, so much less smell and i love how fast it drys.
You mentioned the kamikaze dent. I was glad you did and I'm looking forward to seeing you replicate it. I haven't seen anyone else even try to do that. The oil canning is a great addition that adds a lot of realism to the model. I admire your dedication.
Yes. I have been thinking about this a lot. I'm looking for some solid info on where exactly the dent is. There are lots of pictures of the "dent" online, but I'm not seeing any good reference points for where that is at on the starboard side. I know it's towards the aft near a 5" gun mount.... but I don't know for sure. If you have a link or reference of the exact spot, that would be great to know!!! Thanks!
Looks amazing and definitely makes a difference in the end. A couple techniques that have helped me with the hull dishing in the past is to prime it with a coat or two and then start on the hull dishing with a curved scraper. Scraping into the primer has really helped with a softer effect instead of going right into pure plastic. I used one of those extra soft pillows with the ripped up foam pieces in it to rest the hull on and it let me position/prop up the hull at all different angles which made it a lot easier to work on. Definitely helps with the scraping when it’s not totally parallel to the table. Looks 👍
Now that is some valuable information!!! I did a lot of "experimenting" before I filmed. And on the starboard side I arrived at your method of priming first. It definitely makes it easier to see what you've removed. If I had this to do over again, I would have done that first. And I would have moved ahead with a lot more confidence knowing that a little sanding and the paint layers really help sort everything out.
Wave action,warping from welds, and being pushed by tugs for 70+years.
She, the NJ, and the Iowa were usually berthed at the secondary carrier piers(2&3) near us in Norfolk back in the mid-late 80s.
I was stationed aboard Concord AFS5, we were always berthed at pier 4 northside whenever we weren't overseas during our Med Cruises.
We served with the Big Mo, Iowa,NJ, America, JFK, Forrestal battle groups from 86-89.
We were present the day when the Iowa had her #2 turrent incident.
I have yet to visit the Iowa again, even tho I only live an hour away in SoCal.
Battleships, in fact Naval vessels of all kinds suffer dings, dents and bashes. When HMS Glamorgan had a catastrophic boiler room fire they had no steam to power the fire pumps. So they sealed off the burning boiler room and starved the fire of air. The resulting vacuum caused the hull to suck inwards by 6 inches on each side. They never tried to get the dents out so she spent the last 10 years of her life with a wonderful wave shape down her length. I was in the Royal Navy at the time and saw her like this.
First time watching a modelling video and I never realised the attention to detail with putting the dents in.........dedication! 👍🏼
Nice work and always appreciate the finer details. @28:00 the "vents" are actually for dumping the empty shell casings into the sea and clearing the deck of the gun emplacement. The "hot shell man" would wear asbestos gloves or pads and shove them out a door in the deck.
Ok.. every US warship I visited looked like you could kick your foot right thru the hull... you are correct, the hulls of US warships are dented very much so and very noticeable. I am impressed with your bold attempt to create that realism to your kit....BRAVO ZULU!
Great job. That 53" challenge is gonna look great. Thanks for showing all you work. Card scrapping is the best method, your on it. The problem is the divot "depth" is much less and using the massive tools in scale is tough to get the effect. They would be less noticeable but there. Light drags on the scrapper. What a project.
Yeah keep in mind that the divers get filled with paint. So it ends up being significantly shallower that what you see. In fact, I have a hard time even seeing them now. You can feel them. They are there. But it worked out nicely.
The tin canning came out great, it's a nice touch that you don't see much of. I do agree with the bigger scales did some more detail on the hulls. There is a sight, Scale Model Workshop Paul Budzik . He dose lots of videos on panel lines, hull plates and detailing. Not that you need the help.
I really appreciate the research you put into building this representation. It’s about as flawless as your model building. You’re off to a great start. Thus is going to be another awesome build!
Even though you may not be completely happy with the final result, I think your persistence has paid off and it looks pretty darn good. Thanks for sharing, great video.
I wrote my name on the bottom of the keel when we were in dry dock once. Your model is looking fantastic.
The dents look great. They are the results of the wave actions on the plates between the vertical and horizontal bulkhead bracing.
for the black water line stripe i use auto pin stripping.
Gorgeous!! im obsessed with Iowa Class BB...my grandfather served on the Wisconsin.
I love the Wisconsin! I've visited her 2 times last summer. Great warship! And it is the Biggest Battleship ; )
My Dad served on the Wisconsin as well. He was a Gunners Mate in ‘45 and ‘46 after the war.
Looking great Ben she looks like a monster of a kit. If you can get your hands on a magazine called full ahead they show you how to do a 3d effect on tin canning. Check it out as it gives you great idea on how to tackle problems in ship building I hope this info helps.
Thanks Rodney! I need all the help I can get!
@@TheMidwestModelShop
Your more than welcome the magazine your looking for is called full ahead Knox & Baleares Class
By ak interactive
I'm building my first ever ship model rn, aoshima hiryu, and this vidoe got me motivated to do more than just basic work on it! Thank you Midwest model shop!
XxbeyblademasterxX hey thats awesome!!! I’m sure you’ll find the extra effort very rewarding!
I think the oil canning looks great for your first attempt. Never let anyone tell you that to fail is bad, remember it your First Attempt In Learning.
Kevin Harbeson I agree completely. I’m assuming 99% of individuals watching this video have never even thought about doing it, yet alone trying. I was hoping to share how one might attempt it.
I like the effects you did, those dents are awesome 👌🏾😸
Thank you! They look great on the finished model.
You are doing a really fine detail job on that ship. I went to see the Arizona Memorial in Hawaii . The Missouri was berthed further down and you are point with the oil canning. Job well done. I have scene this effect on modern commercial ships at the Port of Houston Bay Port Facility when I was on patrol as a police officer.
This is an incredible model and build. Great job on the “tin caning” and painting.
I like the box top on the wall in the background. Nice touch! Colourcoats do naval colors in enamel. It works very well and is available in the US.
The texture looks great brother. I would've never done it to mine because I probably would've screwed it up. But you're canning dents look great. I'm not gonna lie, it's hard for me to do but you pretty much pulled it off. Looking great brother.
Even modern steel ships have indentations between the frames. It's caused by the shell being welded to the beams that make up the frames due to heat and easily seen by sunlight at certain angles. It is far more noticeable where the shell is thinner such as the deck houses. As the shell moves over the machinery spaces it is much thicker and even more so over the ballast tanks where it is up to two inches thick and nonexistent.
Love the attention to detail you put into your builds Ben
Any project I do never comes out perfect. Outstanding job mister.
Looks good, I have a few ship models in my collection to do up and may just try adding the hull details like you did.
Thanks for the shout out buddy!! Glad the book is helping!! That's a lot of work to get that tin canning to look good!! She looks great to me!!
The loops are mounts for the accommodation ladder.
The dents are amazing, such so much work and dedication put into them.
Wow, fantastic work. Tin canning looks great. Very impressed!
For oil canning, I would have tried using a Dremel tool with an appropriate burring bit. I think it would be both easier to work with and much quicker.
Yeah that was my very first thought. The problem is you have to go slow enough so you remove the plastic and not melt it. But then you’ll be left with a rough surface. Which you’ll have to figure out how best to smooth without removing the very subtle indentations you made. And then there is the control issue. If you slip at all....you’ll have to do a lot of filling. But you’re right. It “could” work out really well. I’m pleased with the results I got. They don’t stand out, just like on the real thing. But if you look at the hulk from the right angle you suddenly see them. Just like on the real thing.
You warned us advanced that it would take time between episodes..I am happily surprised it was this fast already
Thanks Rob! Once I start a fun project like this I really try to work on it whenever I can. It's unfortunate that my training event is when it is. But oh well! Gotta make money to cover the hobby!
It seems you are so hard on yourself. The tin can effect is so awesome! I wish we didn't have to wait till august
There are some gunsmithing gouges made for stock fitting that are smaller and would seem to be about perfect size for that carving.
Navy Blue is a very dark blue. Some mistake it for black. If anything you'd be looking for a bluish gray (aka: haze gray). ModelMaster has a Haze Gray of the WWII era "5-H Haze Gray," which has a purple/blue tint.
Very nice start. I'm impressed with your efforts to push the envelope, and your philosophy that the main thing is to have fun... after all it IS just a hobby and not life or death. I followed your Arizona build and ended up building my own... and then I took on the Missouri for good measure. There is a well published photo of the hulk of the Oklahoma (very close in size to the Arizona) tied up next to the Wisconsin which dramatically shows the difference in size and fittings between the capital ships of the two eras. You will have an interesting display should you choose to pose your two builds in proximity.
I used both the MK and Eduard products on the Arizona, and the two Pontos products (Eduard hull plates, as well) on the Missouri. I'm close to finishing up the Missouri, and have a fair amount of surplus photo-etch between the two builds. Should you run into an issue or two and require replacement pieces don't hesitate to let me know and I might be able to provide at no cost.
Again, keep up the good work.
Holy Cow, Jim!!! Thank you very much!!! I will keep that in mind for when I inevitably loose something!
I'm sure you could have used a Dremel tool with multiple abrasive bits, to do the hull denting. Would have saved time too. Think it would come out a bit more rib conformed? Great job! Many would not do this detail, maybe the model company could have included an extra bow section with hull denting, $$$$? Or include something to apply to the hull, like the zimuret on the German tank models. Vahevala!
Looks great. That sure is one big model.
Great job with the hull! The tin can effect is awesome!
Very interesting and very informative videos you have already uploaded.
I'm also getting ready little by little
for the construction, (after first completing the Bismarck that I already have and am in the construction stage)) and I have started the research
My opinion is that I will get a lot of help from you
I am currently looking for information on the manufacture of
Is there a related video??
I saw in episode no 2
The preparation for the > but not for the > maybe you have video efforts on the way they are made
I would be very happy if I could learn from you.
Again, congratulations on all the work
Great work! It took guts to start carving stressed skin in such a valuable kit and your mapping of the framing was clear and concise. Your build will help me when I come to work on my kit. I hope your training goes well and I look forward to the next instalment.
I like the oil canning. Good job. I have heard it called "the starving cow look" also
If it’s possible can you cover the cost for what you spend overall with the kit and upgrade parts. Thank you. Excited to see the build.
Hey Ron, I'm into this about $700 US. for this thing. You're mileage may vary depending upon where you get the kit, the Pontos kit, and how much paint you already own. I could have cut the price in half with just buying the kit. And spent just $150 bucks on the detail set if I had gone with a different manufacturer. But Pontos, supposedly, is the best one you can get. So far, with the exception of the hull plating, nothing has been overlooked. The PE will be the bulk of this build, for sure. Then you will probably want a display base and case for it. I will be building those myself and the cost will be negligible. But if you have to have those items made.... well a new case could easily run you another 3-400 bucks. But, yeah, I'll keep all the cost "in mind" as I go and ask again when it's finished. A little google search can get you a ball park idea of the cost of things.
Very nice! I just bought the kit, you're giving me wonderful ideas.
Hoy mate, good job. I like the oil canning with the half round scraper. This is a very intresting model. I enjoy building in large scales. I'll have to think about this one. I lean towards sailing ships but I do have a few large WW2 ships. Thank you for the videos and your dedication. New subscriber,
Thanks!!! I have a few all wood sailing ship kits that I’ve build/have started. I enjoy working on them when I feel like my plastic model kit skills have stalled out.
Would maybe a black wash or dry brushing to bring out those dents? you are doing awesome work. I was just spitballing.
I'm actually thinking about putting a semi gloss coat on the hull...I've heard some stories about that being accurate anyway. But the idea is it would help reflect light from the right angles so you could see it better.
Great work on the hull
I am amazed at the efforts you make to achieve the weathering effects (tin-canning). IMO, any lack of satisfaction YOU may feel over the result is amply compensated by your desire for excellence at, and devotion to, your craft! Having said that, if your aim is to depict Missouri as in Aug '45, she was barely a year old. Your "ageing" efforts would perhaps be more appropriate to the Korean War era. Or perhaps even Desert Storm.
Next time try this method use flite metal adhesive tape and use burnishing tools to perform the tin canning effects. You will have to sand the flitemetal with various grades of sandpaper in order to get the paint to stick. Just search flitemetal on TH-cam to see if this will help you out.
I have been on this great Battleship when she was docked in Bremerton WA before being decommissioned in Pearl Harbor and is moored next to the Arizona Memorial.
That is just about the length of 1/72 scale submarine kits. Probably close to the wingspan of the 1/32 scale B-24 by HK. I think it looks fine. Even the bow. Forge ahead. You got a good build going & got the massive painting done on the hull. Good to see builds of stuff I wouldn't want given to me. Too big. I share your preference in Model master enamel. I do not mind solvent smells & like how enamel works. It torments me that they are discontinuing that line.
Yeah, the day I can't buy enamel flat black paint.....I'll probably throw a giant 3 year old fit.
This really is extra-splendid; good work my friend!
tremondous work nice vedido I have the bismark in this series id be afraid to tin can it lol
Oh wow I'm so happy for this project!!! Love your videos
It looks great,awesome model.
Didn't know Benny Hill did model building ... :) Thanks for sharing, nice tips.
That has been one of my how the bloody hell can I make it look right, bloody awesome work mate looks good as always till next time have a good one
Interesting approach with some real good ideas.......
I’m doing the same thing as Brian the hobbyboss 1/350 scale Arizona. Been talking to him for so pointers. I have the Arizona book by the same guy ordered. The Missouri is looking good. You show check out what I’m doing on the Arizona could use more help or criticism on it lol. Keep going buddy.
Thanks for the awesome action.
Beautiful
I worked in ship construction for 30 years and hull dishing (as opposed to collision damage) is caused by the welding process. welding the frames to shell plates causes this distortion. you don't see hull dishing on riveted ships.
A soldering iron with the right tip could do the dents on the hull .
I thought about that. But it will just melt the plastic and you really need to remove it.
@@TheMidwestModelShop im thinking if you hold the iron a bit away from the surface with the right shape bit it might work .why not give it a try on a spare bit of plastic and see what it looks like .
Think I'm gonna send you a couple of B-52 fuselage parts in 1/72 Ben,
Sounds good to me!
FANTASTIC!! You amaze me with your skills. I can’t wait for August. Dave
Tamiya and Mr. Color paints man i havent found any thing thats better
I like stamina and have started experimenting with Testors acrylic for brush painting. I’ll look into Mr. Color. Thanks!
you could have used an ice pick (fine point) and with a small wood hammer made the rivet heads yourself flip them over for the effect and glued in place.
Looks good so far.
Just started my ship as well. I have a bit of an advantage as I work on the ship so if you need a photo here or there let me know. Would be happy to snap one for you.
Yes !!! Video 2 🥳
Dremel makes many, many attachments that might make that dishing effect go a lot faster.
You look good with that huge kit. I don't have a room big enough to build that one. I do small wood ship models mostly. Midwest Products kits, still available on eBay.
Looks awesome
Hi
I'm going to order a deck replacement for my 1:350 USS Arizona . So if you don't mind if I tell John at Scale Deck that you mentioned his business on your first video .
Also you mentioned the faze 22 color scheme for the USS Arizona .
I've come across this and compared to some rare color photos prior to Dec 7 - 1940
The ships in Battleship row where Not the dark sea blue that you mentioned . The ships where a Mid to Light Sea Gray .
The Faze 22 was used later on several of the surviving and recovered Battleships one of which I speak is the USS Nevada at Iwo Jima with the uppermost of the superstructure a Light Gray to White .
According to the article the USS Arizona would not have this color scheme . A lot of people have been mistaken in missidentifing the burnt ships as the dark navy blue , again the ships in Battleship Row where a Mid to Light Gray with the upper superstructure a white or lighter gray .
Yes, please mention it to him. I actually had an email exchange with him about this build before I started. He plans on designing the 1/200 Missouri deck later this summer. Sooooo.... let him know that if he gets it done sometime in August or September to email me and I will order one for this build.
Great video and good work! BTW no dent is alike/similar, keep up the good work.
I currently have the 1/200 scale Titanic, Arizona, and Missouri. I know your not fully done with Titanic yet, but out of those 3 which was your favorite build.
Well…. The Missouri looks the best when finished. However, the Arizona is a much shorter build. And has a lot of unique features. The Titanic is unique and you’ll never get tired of assembling guns with her. But I think Missouri was my favorite, in the end. However… I have CV-6 now. And plans to make a sea going diorama with it. So we will see.
I thought photo etch was over priced till i watched how its done then never complained about it again. The materials, printer, software, chemicals and time involved in photo etching is pretty extensive.
Wow! All you need are a couple of paddles and off you go lol!
Just an FYI, I don’t think the Iowa class has rivet details on the hull due to the fact that the outer hull plating was welded as opposed to riveted.
The "tin canning" could (should?) have been designed into the kit itself, avoiding the need for this additional work. Anyway the end result seems very realistic. ...It would be cool to install RC gear, motor, etc and convert this kit into a floating, functioning RC model.
I'm building a 1/200 HMS Hood by Trumpeter and I'm picking a couple tips here and there from these videos, but I steadfastly refuse to mutilate it by trying to make it look like it just came off a used boat lot in the south side. If that's someones cup of tea, so be it. I've never believed in displaying anything to show it at it's worst.
This is the age old argument of 'as issued' or 'used'. personally I don't mind it so long as it makes sense for the ship in the time it is being depicted. for instance on this build I think it makes sense to add it since the ship does have significant dishing in pictures from the time the ship is meant to be depicted, However if you added it to your model of Hood I wouldn't agree with it since Hood never showed evidence of it at any point in it's service life. Like you said though to each their own.
P.s. that 1/200 scale HMS Hood must be an absolute behemoth. I did one in 1/350 scale and remember it being a monster, that's why I prefer 1/700 scale now their far more manageable to build and display
That's an awesome model, can't wait to see it finished. Ben, have you ever built an I-400 Japanese sub with the stow away planes and flight deck? I know a model exist but would like to hear a builders opinion on it.
Keith Wills I have not but have also always been interested in that kit. If you get the Tamiya one, I would assume it would be pretty good.
Nice work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
hey just found your channel. great videos i appreciate the time you take to do this. i’m planning on buying a similar missouri model that is 1:350. it will be my second model ever and i’m worried i will somehow mess it up. any tips or tricks for the missouri in particular or just models in general?
Just take your time and try to enjoy it verses “making it perfect”. It’s a hobby and it’s supposed to be fun! Pick one thing you want to try and really get right. Focus your energy on that one part. For the rest of the model, just build it. If you do that with each build, you’ll have a serious set of skills in no time.
Looks great man,wish I could get my hands on that model myself
Beautiful! I am starting my Trumpeter Iowa-class ship, but before I do, I need help! I have been looking for a guide showing all the guy wires, antennas, cables, and misc lines for a WW2 Iowa-class battleship; I mean all of them. Yes, I have looked online. There must be a book or something...does the above-mentioned book feature this? Thanks!
Outside Beyond I was just thinking about that today. So this book is mostly a “history” of the ship. But there are WAY more pictures here than I’ve found anywhere else. I’m hoping it will provide that information. I wouldn’t let that stop you from starting the build, however. There is A LOT to do before you get to that stage 😉. Hoping to have another video update out by the end of next week.
Absolutely love your video. You've got me convinced to build one myself. Your videos are well organized, and informative. You do great work. One small piece of criticism: I wish you had used better lighting so we can see your work better. Keep up the great work! Thank you!
Question; Is a larger kit easier because all the parts are bigger, or harder because there is so much more detail and MORE small parts?
Yes and Yes. So the tiny parts on a 1/350 scale ship are much more manageable in this scale and that makes thing much easier. However, because this ship is so much larger, suddenly very small details that you wouldn't see on the 1/350 scale ship suddenly becomes visible and are modeled. Now you're right back to where you started. But, you could always opt to skip that stuff!
You can see pronounced dishing on the hulls of subs. Nautilus had a lot of it ...
Glade to see your under way I orderd the upgrade parts today for that Sturling kit I will be doing BB61 that is because I am a ham operator and I had contacted that ship by radio.
It's the USS IOWA (BB61)
Хорошая работа. Удачи!