I made 1 of these based on your design Colin, the first identical to yours (which works great) and intend to make another two fences where I will trim the edge by the bit with the router ( a 10mm and a 12mm respectively in my case) these will be marked specifically one for a 10mm and the other for the 12mm, the routed edge should allow easy alignment to a mark without having to work out the bit offset and may also act as a splinter edge, it will make them a 'one trick pony' as they are only for use with their respective size bits
Thanks Colin for the Video. Great Idea. If you leave the template 1/2 Inch wider you can create a reference line at the edge of the Jig to align exactly with a pencil mark.
I havent read all the comment but the concept you are trying to say in the start was when you have the route running aligned to the straight edge there is a line contact and when you have it aligned on the circular side its a point contact. A point contact is always better because any point on the circle is tangent to the guide edge. In other words, in a circle you can put any point tangent to the edge you center of the circle remains the same as long as your edge remains the same. If that makes sense
Thanks Colin, this is just what I needed just when I needed it. I'm in the process of building a new top for my router table to hold my Jess-Em router lift and I was trying to figure out how I'm going to route out the slot for the miter track. I do believe this jig will do the trick.
Hi Colin, I'm going to make one of these, but instead of drilling holes in the lower plate, I was thinking of using my router to cut a T-slot the full length of the lower plate, then instead of cutting slots in the stop blocks, just drilling a hole in each one and using the bolts with the heads inserted into the T-slot, with wing nuts locking the stop blocks in place. Being a "newbie", I wanted to ask if you foresee any problems I might create in doing that?
Hi Colin. Might I suggest shortening the bolts? Their length looks like they would be a hazard to your hands. And possibly using knobs instead of wingnuts, although wingnuts are easy to use, and are less expensive than knobs. Oh yes, and flat washers to spread the force of the wingnuts over a larger area, the stop pieces would last longer.
Nice jig and easy to make , love your videos' they are very informative . With a little brain power you can make most tools for your workshop, keep them coming!!!
I like it, but how about extending the bottom out further with a gap for the router bit to run. This would then give you more support front and back of the router?
Thanks for this video Collin. It's going to be great for me if I can pull it off. Thanks again. What do you think about a continuous groove instead the series of holes for the stop.
Colin, for curves of non-constant radius I use a French curve. You get them at craft stores or art supplies for cheap. Just another way to solve the same problem.
Smart design as you don't have to make loooong slots on the base piece - which may cause flex and inaccuracy. Only thing I'm gonna change for something similar (for routing groves on flat door trim) is shorter bolts. Easier storage plus less prone to catch the cord/hose. Thx for the idea.
1:25 Asi es estimado, como usted dice. Siempre se utiliza el canto circular, que en teoría (si esta bien mecanizado), siempre se encuentra equidistante al centro de la fresa en toda su circunferencia. Por ese motivo la base es siempre es circular. La parte recta tiene otro propósito, y es el de acortar la distancia entre borde de la base y la fresa, y de esa forma tener una mayor profundidad de corte en dicho lateral. El problema ocurre cuando se tiene planitud de mente (jajaja, a mi me ocurrió), al principio usaba cara plana, contra cara plana, hasta que vi la luz! Nota curiosa: los router pequeños, no llevan bases con caras planas porque no las necesitan.
I really like this jig and plan to make one but I think I will make one addition to mine. I’m going to make adjustable slides on the bottom that will make it perfectly 90 degrees to the board I’m routing so I can just slide it up to the next spot that needs a dado
Great videos, Colin. Just one question about this one... why did you decide to rout slots into the two stops and drill a series of holes in the back plate, rather than drilling a single hole in each stop and two long slots in the black plate?
A nice jig, thank you. As a point of interest what was the reason for drilling individual holes and recesses as opposed to routing a slot(s) for the bolts?
I wondered that also, and came to the conclusion that routing a through groove that is nearly the length of the jig makes the base more flimsy and fragile.
@@slhogenson1156 That's a valid point. It occurred to me while I was watching that as the holes don't go all the way along the base you could route slots over the equivalent length, do away with the slots in the stops and then when they were locked down they would act as a brace . I guess there is always more than one way to skin a cat. Maybe I'll make two and see what differences there are. No cats will be harmed in the experiment :-)
Thanks for sharing. I loved the design and functionality of the jig. One question, though. Would you consider using 3/4 plywood for the base and place two sections of T tract, instead of drilling two series of holes that allow the adjustment of the stoppers? Thankx again for sharing.
Nice jig I like it....... I'll have to make one only about 9 ft long. Many fluting and cab building process's require bigger pieces. Thanks for the vid.
@jim bishop and @colin, I am not experienced yet with the router. If the shorter jig is used on a longer piece for longer flutes or other details, repositioning the jig as needed, will you be able to see the place where you stopped and started? Or can it look pretty seamless? Wondering if we have to make a long jig. Ty!
Great jig, ColIn, as always your ideas are very interesting :) If you glue small pieces of plywood (the same thickness as the base) under the stop blocks then you could mark a center line for the router bits on them. You would still have to calculate actual cut line according to router bit's diameter, but it may speed up a bit with lining up the jig. Anyway great video as always. Thanks for all your work :)
So what kind of jig do I need for my router to make some grooves in 4x4 ? I saw too much videos and I am confused. I want to make cell phone holder . can you share a link ?
Forgive me if this is stupid, but if you put the slot in the base and the hole in the stops, wouldn’t it make it easier/quicker to adjust the width of the stops? Couldn’t you just loosen the wing nut and slide the stops to a new position?
The problem there is with a slot long enough to go the distance you'd need on the base you would end up with a much weaker base. The distance between the slot in the base and the edge of the base would create a weak point and the wood would flex quite a bit causing inaccuracies in the cut.
If you have your holes at a fixed distance apart you will have a point of reference for measurement when you slide the adjustable stops. It would be easy to mark off increments of 1 inch (or whatever graduation you like) on it and use that to dial in the distance between the stops.
Not to be argumentative, but I think if you just put the slot(s) where the holes are and leave the center part intact, you could accomplish my idea while keeping the structural integrity of the jig. I might try it and see.
Are the T Bolts for toilet bowls cheaper than buying dedicated T Bolts for things such as T Tracks? That sounds like it could be a great lifehack instead of buying true T Bolts for woodworking purposes.
I have found the cost to be similar since most hardware stores sell the toilet bolts in a kit with nuts, washers and other hardware. The upside is that since you can typically only get the regular T bolts from woodworking specialty stores or online the local hardware store is great in a pinch if you only need a couple for a project.
I want to bring this to your attention. Regarding safety, you mentioned ear protection and safety glasses but not mask. I had conversations with my dentist yesterday. I mentioned my wood shop. His reply wear a mask. Then mentioned that his cousin died of sinus cancer 15 years ago. He spent many hours after work everyday making furniture. He was good at it. But never wore a mask.
I love your videos.. I'm new to the hobby and you are a big help! By the way, have you ever noticed how Closed Caption mangled your name? Quite amusing. I hope you think so, too. Today you are ”called a canet”. 😀
You were right about the color of your bench top making the wood pieces stand out. Great jig Colin!
Yup, makes it easier to show what I'm doing. Thanks for watching!
I made 1 of these based on your design Colin, the first identical to yours (which works great) and intend to make another two fences where I will trim the edge by the bit with the router ( a 10mm and a 12mm respectively in my case) these will be marked specifically one for a 10mm and the other for the 12mm, the routed edge should allow easy alignment to a mark without having to work out the bit offset and may also act as a splinter edge, it will make them a 'one trick pony' as they are only for use with their respective size bits
Wow very simple to make, loos like i will have another jig to use
Thanks Colin for the Video. Great Idea. If you leave the template 1/2 Inch wider you can create a reference line at the edge of the Jig to align exactly with a pencil mark.
I initially had a similar thought, but then realized that by doing so it restricts the jig to a single diameter router bit.
I havent read all the comment but the concept you are trying to say in the start was when you have the route running aligned to the straight edge there is a line contact and when you have it aligned on the circular side its a point contact. A point contact is always better because any point on the circle is tangent to the guide edge. In other words, in a circle you can put any point tangent to the edge you center of the circle remains the same as long as your edge remains the same. If that makes sense
Wow! So simplistic and useful! Great job! I'm definitely going to make my own! Thanks Colin!
You're welcome, Fred! Thanks for watching.
You make a good point about using the curve of the router instead of the flat.
It's on my to make list. Thanks 👍
Thanks Colin, this is just what I needed just when I needed it. I'm in the process of building a new top for my router table to hold my Jess-Em router lift and I was trying to figure out how I'm going to route out the slot for the miter track. I do believe this jig will do the trick.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Hi Colin, I'm going to make one of these, but instead of drilling holes in the lower plate, I was thinking of using my router to cut a T-slot the full length of the lower plate, then instead of cutting slots in the stop blocks, just drilling a hole in each one and using the bolts with the heads inserted into the T-slot, with wing nuts locking the stop blocks in place. Being a "newbie", I wanted to ask if you foresee any problems I might create in doing that?
As always thanks Colin.
Hi Colin. Might I suggest shortening the bolts? Their length looks like they would be a hazard to your hands. And possibly using knobs instead of wingnuts, although wingnuts are easy to use, and are less expensive than knobs. Oh yes, and flat washers to spread the force of the wingnuts over a larger area, the stop pieces would last longer.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Wowsa! The best ideas are always simple
Awe man. Another jig that I gotta build in the fiture
love mustard. great work
This is a great Idea. Thanks! I was thinking a couple scrap t-slot tracks would serve better here then the through holes.
Darren W so was i
Excellent job, Mr. Colin!
Thank You!
Always shear great idea , you are awesome
Thank You!
Thank you for posting Colin.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Man, I need one of these! Thank you Collin, great looking jig
Thank You!
GREAT project Colin. I am going to adapt this concept to my circular saw guide. Thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Verry good idea. Regards from Serbia !
Thanks for watching!
Nice jig and easy to make , love your videos' they are very informative . With a little brain power you can make most tools for your workshop, keep them coming!!!
I like it, but how about extending the bottom out further with a gap for the router bit to run. This would then give you more support front and back of the router?
Awsome mate great job thanks . Joe
Great addition to jigs I want to make.
Thanks for watching!
Great idea and beautiful design! Well done Colin!
Thank You!
As always thank you for your ideas and instructions
You're Welcome!
Well done just what i need
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video Collin. It's going to be great for me if I can pull it off. Thanks again. What do you think about a continuous groove instead the series of holes for the stop.
Great video. Can’t wait to make it.
Very good product for routing. Expecting more from you.
Thanks for watching!
Colin, for curves of non-constant radius I use a French curve. You get them at craft stores or art supplies for cheap. Just another way to solve the same problem.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Hi Colin,
Why didn’t you use a flat washer under the wing nut to better secure the connection ?
Bob
Thanks a lot just finished mine all from your help appreciate it.
Smart design as you don't have to make loooong slots on the base piece - which may cause flex and inaccuracy. Only thing I'm gonna change for something similar (for routing groves on flat door trim) is shorter bolts. Easier storage plus less prone to catch the cord/hose. Thx for the idea.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Superb Colin. Will be making one of these. Cheers Huw
Nicely done! Another great video, thanks Colin!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
1:25 Asi es estimado, como usted dice. Siempre se utiliza el canto circular, que en teoría (si esta bien mecanizado), siempre se encuentra equidistante al centro de la fresa en toda su circunferencia. Por ese motivo la base es siempre es circular. La parte recta tiene otro propósito, y es el de acortar la distancia entre borde de la base y la fresa, y de esa forma tener una mayor profundidad de corte en dicho lateral.
El problema ocurre cuando se tiene planitud de mente (jajaja, a mi me ocurrió), al principio usaba cara plana, contra cara plana, hasta que vi la luz!
Nota curiosa: los router pequeños, no llevan bases con caras planas porque no las necesitan.
La mia tiene la frontal y trasera planas, pero las laterales redondeadas... :|
Hi Colin, I have a Makita DRT50 doesn't have a rounded base. Will this make any difference?
I really like this jig and plan to make one but I think I will make one addition to mine. I’m going to make adjustable slides on the bottom that will make it perfectly 90 degrees to the board I’m routing so I can just slide it up to the next spot that needs a dado
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Great videos, Colin. Just one question about this one... why did you decide to rout slots into the two stops and drill a series of holes in the back plate, rather than drilling a single hole in each stop and two long slots in the black plate?
A nice jig, thank you. As a point of interest what was the reason for drilling individual holes and recesses as opposed to routing a slot(s) for the bolts?
I wondered that also, and came to the conclusion that routing a through groove that is nearly the length of the jig makes the base more flimsy and fragile.
@@slhogenson1156 That's a valid point. It occurred to me while I was watching that as the holes don't go all the way along the base you could route slots over the equivalent length, do away with the slots in the stops and then when they were locked down they would act as a brace . I guess there is always more than one way to skin a cat. Maybe I'll make two and see what differences there are. No cats will be harmed in the experiment :-)
Thinking about routing a 3/4 by 3/8 groove and using T Track (
Probably because the T bolts would be at risk of moving sideways and moving your stops.
Very nice jig. Now I need to remake mine. Lol.
lol ... Thanks for watching!
This is a very well designed and useful jig. Thanks.
How about some ideas for some easy to make Christmas gifts?
I will do it this weekend
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Great straight edge, thanks Colin 👍👍👍👍👍
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I really like that jig. Thank you for the great content and production quality. 👍😎🇦🇺
Nice jig, good and simple cheers
Thank you very much, it is realy handy.
Willy from Belgium.
You're Welcome!
That was a good one mate, thanks for sharing!
You're welcome, Mark! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing. I loved the design and functionality of the jig. One question, though. Would you consider using 3/4 plywood for the base and place two sections of T tract, instead of drilling two series of holes that allow the adjustment of the stoppers? Thankx again for sharing.
Nice and handy jig.
Cheers mate 👍
Thanks for watching, Bill!
Awesome Jig Colin! You really outdid yourself with that one! Need me one of those........... Thanks
You're welcome, Steve! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the knowledge on building this jig for my router Sir
You're Welcome!
Hi Very good thanks for the video
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Nice jig I like it....... I'll have to make one only about 9 ft long. Many fluting and cab building process's require bigger pieces. Thanks for the vid.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
@jim bishop and @colin, I am not experienced yet with the router. If the shorter jig is used on a longer piece for longer flutes or other details, repositioning the jig as needed, will you be able to see the place where you stopped and started? Or can it look pretty seamless? Wondering if we have to make a long jig. Ty!
Nice jig!.Thank you.
You're Welcome!
wow - definitely going to make this jig.. Thanks so much -
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great jig, ColIn, as always your ideas are very interesting :) If you glue small pieces of plywood (the same thickness as the base) under the stop blocks then you could mark a center line for the router bits on them. You would still have to calculate actual cut line according to router bit's diameter, but it may speed up a bit with lining up the jig. Anyway great video as always. Thanks for all your work :)
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Colon if you wax your wood you will have less drag. Just figured I throw that idea at ya.
Another great Video Colin, Just thinking, We could just screw the stops any where, To save making slots ?, Thanks.
I assume the width of the bottom bored will Bart based on the width of the base of the router?
Assume but verify. Where does 4 7/8 come from?
Как всегда просто и качественно.
👍
Nice jig.
Thank You!
Brilliant ..Thank you.. Terry Dorset UK
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much, Colin. Very helpful!
You're Welcome!
So what kind of jig do I need for my router to make some grooves in 4x4 ? I saw too much videos and I am confused. I want to make cell phone holder . can you share a link ?
Thanks Collin for sharing. I've learnt a lot from you. Btw, nice holder for your bit huh... a mahjong tiles
Lovely one..
Thank You!
Great job Colin, well explained, thank you.. Off to make one now. Cheers Aussie Jamie
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Forgive me if this is stupid, but if you put the slot in the base and the hole in the stops, wouldn’t it make it easier/quicker to adjust the width of the stops? Couldn’t you just loosen the wing nut and slide the stops to a new position?
The problem there is with a slot long enough to go the distance you'd need on the base you would end up with a much weaker base. The distance between the slot in the base and the edge of the base would create a weak point and the wood would flex quite a bit causing inaccuracies in the cut.
If you have your holes at a fixed distance apart you will have a point of reference for measurement when you slide the adjustable stops. It would be easy to mark off increments of 1 inch (or whatever graduation you like) on it and use that to dial in the distance between the stops.
Not to be argumentative, but I think if you just put the slot(s) where the holes are and leave the center part intact, you could accomplish my idea while keeping the structural integrity of the jig. I might try it and see.
I didn't know you could glue wood with mustard? Learn something new everyday. Now I'm hungry for a hot dog.
I hope this was sarcastic XD
It tastes good too ;)
Nice Job. Thanks for sharing. ;-)
You're Welcome!
Could MDF be used for this "
Absolutely.
Yes, it could. Thanks for watching!
Could a t track be used instead of drilling holes?
I was thinking when I make this, I will make a channel (dado basically) for the T bolt heads instead of all those elliptical holes. would be faster.
Are the T Bolts for toilet bowls cheaper than buying dedicated T Bolts for things such as T Tracks? That sounds like it could be a great lifehack instead of buying true T Bolts for woodworking purposes.
I have found the cost to be similar since most hardware stores sell the toilet bolts in a kit with nuts, washers and other hardware. The upside is that since you can typically only get the regular T bolts from woodworking specialty stores or online the local hardware store is great in a pinch if you only need a couple for a project.
I'm really not sure. I guess it depends on what your local store carries. Thanks for watching.
I want to bring this to your attention. Regarding safety, you mentioned ear protection and safety glasses but not mask. I had conversations with my dentist yesterday. I mentioned my wood shop. His reply wear a mask. Then mentioned that his cousin died of sinus cancer 15 years ago. He spent many hours after work everyday making furniture. He was good at it. But never wore a mask.
Hey my brother awesome Gadget,I love it good idea to for multi jobs later :)
Thank You!
Where did the 4 7/8 measurement come from? Base?
This is why I am reading the comments. Where did 4 7/8 " come from?
How can I contact you to buy one or more roter jigs? Thanks
I love your videos.. I'm new to the hobby and you are a big help! By the way, have you ever noticed how Closed Caption mangled your name? Quite amusing. I hope you think so, too. Today you are ”called a canet”. 😀
Yup, it seems to keep having problems with my names ... it's always interesting to see what it calls me today. Thanks for watching!
You can find 1/4" - 20 toilet flange bolts.
Can I buy one from you? I will pay $70 for your trouble
👍👍👍.
👍
Make me one and ship it to me I can pay you with PayPal. Thanks, Tom
not good