After watching this video, I changed out our old cartridge with a new one and had no leaks and wonderful hot water within seconds of turning on my faucet. I'm pretty impressed with my she-woman skills. If I can do it, anyone can. The way our old pump was positioned, I had to kneel/lay on the concrete in our garage to loosen the old bolts (which was somewhat of a challenge due to the angle). But, once the bolts were loosened, everything else went smoothly. You made this look simple, and for me, it was. It took around 30 minutes to change out. Thank you!
Two important points should be mentioned for safety. 1. Turn off electricity to pump. 2. Electrical box should be positioned to top or side of circulator so if it ever leaks, water doesn't get into electrical box and cause a short. Depending on your system, you may want to shut off power to entire system including the boiler. Since most people will be doing this with the pump installed, there will be water in the system and electricity connected to the electrical box on the circulator housing. If you don't have shut-off valves on both sides of your circulator, you need to find another way to prevent water from gushing out of the pump when you open it. If you don't know how to release the pressure from the system, call an HVAC pro or do some research. If you are replacing the cartridge on a pump that was already in service, some water will spill when you loosen the bolts and remove the circulator housing. It won't be much if you have shut off the water.
Question, my pump is making all kinds funny sounds. I’m assuming the cartridges is bad? The pump was installed in 2005. How long do these typically last and thanks for the vid!
Interestingly enough, the replacement cartridge for a Taco 008-BF6 ( bronze flange-connected pump, very similar to the one depicted) comes with a flat washer for re-sealing, as well as 4 beautiful stainless steel bolts with hex-key heads. Inside, the instructions say "don't replace with a flat washer, use an O-ring, or you will have leaks and void the warranty". In the approved "case seal kit" for this very same pump, you get: (1) one o-ring (2) one flat-washer (3) 4 beautiful stainless steel hex key bolts. So... what I am to use? The flat washer or the o-ring? I can see that Taco clearly cares about quality, and I have to say, my 3 Taco pumps (008 bronze circulator series) have been stellar performers over the last 24 years! Now I'm doing a service on one noisy pump and scratching my head over these things. On another topic.... be VERY careful how you put together a system with two mating surfaces which have a rubber sealing component between them, in a "pressure sandwich". Yes, if that o-ring or gasket isn't perfectly seated inside the metal groove constraints, you will get a "failure to seal" malfunction, if not immediately, some number of months or years down the road. It is essential to control the position of the gasket during installation, so that the rubber item does not get "pinched" by a slightly-offset positioning when closing the two constraining halfs of the joint being sealed. For my particular case, I had to replace the Taco pump rotors "in situ" meaning the whole pump is horizontally oriented, and the o-ring needed to stand up in the vertical position. To make this happen, I used a light layer of silicone plumbers grease to make 1/2 of the mating surface "tacky", allowing the o-ring to be "stuck in place" precisely in the correct position while I brought in the motor housing to make a complete mating operation possible. Good luck, DIY'ers! Peace, the Night Squirrel.
I have a taco 006-BC4. It is part of a 5 or 6-year-old installation of a solar hot water heater system. A few weeks ago, I noticed that the circuit breaker that controls my solar water heater seems to pop randomly. Today I actually happen to be standing in the utility room when it popped, and noticed a loud popping noise coming from the motor on the recirculating pump. I can only assume that this means that something with the motor has gone bad. I take it that the cartridge does not actually come with a motor, but just the impeller? I was able to find the entire pump surprisingly enough at The Home Depot, and it was about $300. That seemed kind of expensive for something like this only lasting a few years. Anyway, I assume that I can simply take that assembly off of the new pump and replace it on the body of the old one without having to unsolder the pump from the pipes, is that correct? Also, should this ever happen again, is there a replacement kit that includes that motor? Maybe there was a cheaper way to fix this.
i have a taco 007-sf5 but i bought a taco 007-f5, can i use the same cartridge? thanks for any help. i'm not sure what the s means, i didnt notice it when i bought it. Appreciate any info.
It seems that Taco 007-F5 is very popular, but when searching for the replacement cartridge with that number I cannot find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I can buy the replacement cartridge?
Pros don't replace the cartridge because the cost of the entire pump is about another 20 bucks or less..... If they sold the pump cartridge for $30 bucks it MIGHT be worth the risk...
@Ready Temp the gamble of buying the cartridge be pump. If the whole pump is needed, you eat the cost of a cartridge and drive time to the supply house to get the pump. You can't return the cartridge once installed also.
IT EASY ON THE BENCH BUT MY WATERPUMP LOCATION WAS INSTALLED BY POOR BUILDER DEVELOPMENT COMPANY. IT TOOK 3 HOURS TO REMOVE IT. THEY PROBABLY THINK IT LAST A LIFE TIME
After watching this video, I changed out our old cartridge with a new one and had no leaks and wonderful hot water within seconds of turning on my faucet. I'm pretty impressed with my she-woman skills. If I can do it, anyone can. The way our old pump was positioned, I had to kneel/lay on the concrete in our garage to loosen the old bolts (which was somewhat of a challenge due to the angle). But, once the bolts were loosened, everything else went smoothly. You made this look simple, and for me, it was. It took around 30 minutes to change out. Thank you!
Two important points should be mentioned for safety.
1. Turn off electricity to pump.
2. Electrical box should be positioned to top or side of circulator so if it ever leaks, water doesn't get into electrical box and cause a short. Depending on your system, you may want to shut off power to entire system including the boiler.
Since most people will be doing this with the pump installed, there will be water in the system and electricity connected to the electrical box on the circulator housing.
If you don't have shut-off valves on both sides of your circulator, you need to find another way to prevent water from gushing out of the pump when you open it. If you don't know how to release the pressure from the system, call an HVAC pro or do some research.
If you are replacing the cartridge on a pump that was already in service, some water will spill when you loosen the bolts and remove the circulator housing. It won't be much if you have shut off the water.
Thanks for that video, I am doing one right now.
Thank you. Helped me change my cartridge.
Question, my pump is making all kinds funny sounds. I’m assuming the cartridges is bad? The pump was installed in 2005. How long do these typically last and thanks for the vid!
How often do the cartridges have to be replaced?
Interestingly enough, the replacement cartridge for a Taco 008-BF6 ( bronze flange-connected pump, very similar to the one depicted) comes with a flat washer for re-sealing, as well as 4 beautiful stainless steel bolts with hex-key heads. Inside, the instructions say "don't replace with a flat washer, use an O-ring, or you will have leaks and void the warranty". In the approved "case seal kit" for this very same pump, you get: (1) one o-ring (2) one flat-washer (3) 4 beautiful stainless steel hex key bolts. So... what I am to use? The flat washer or the o-ring? I can see that Taco clearly cares about quality, and I have to say, my 3 Taco pumps (008 bronze circulator series) have been stellar performers over the last 24 years! Now I'm doing a service on one noisy pump and scratching my head over these things.
On another topic.... be VERY careful how you put together a system with two mating surfaces which have a rubber sealing component between them, in a "pressure sandwich". Yes, if that o-ring or gasket isn't perfectly seated inside the metal groove constraints, you will get a "failure to seal" malfunction, if not immediately, some number of months or years down the road. It is essential to control the position of the gasket during installation, so that the rubber item does not get "pinched" by a slightly-offset positioning when closing the two constraining halfs of the joint being sealed. For my particular case, I had to replace the Taco pump rotors "in situ" meaning the whole pump is horizontally oriented, and the o-ring needed to stand up in the vertical position. To make this happen, I used a light layer of silicone plumbers grease to make 1/2 of the mating surface "tacky", allowing the o-ring to be "stuck in place" precisely in the correct position while I brought in the motor housing to make a complete mating operation possible. Good luck, DIY'ers! Peace, the Night Squirrel.
Should the faces be cleaned or lapped? Or is the seal still good even if the surfaces aren’t perfectly flush?
I have a taco 006-BC4. It is part of a 5 or 6-year-old installation of a solar hot water heater system. A few weeks ago, I noticed that the circuit breaker that controls my solar water heater seems to pop randomly. Today I actually happen to be standing in the utility room when it popped, and noticed a loud popping noise coming from the motor on the recirculating pump. I can only assume that this means that something with the motor has gone bad.
I take it that the cartridge does not actually come with a motor, but just the impeller? I was able to find the entire pump surprisingly enough at The Home Depot, and it was about $300. That seemed kind of expensive for something like this only lasting a few years. Anyway, I assume that I can simply take that assembly off of the new pump and replace it on the body of the old one without having to unsolder the pump from the pipes, is that correct? Also, should this ever happen again, is there a replacement kit that includes that motor? Maybe there was a cheaper way to fix this.
i have a taco 007-sf5 but i bought a taco 007-f5, can i use the same cartridge? thanks for any help. i'm not sure what the s means, i didnt notice it when i bought it. Appreciate any info.
Does the TACO 007-F5 replace the TACO 007-F3 circulator pump ???
It seems that Taco 007-F5 is very popular, but when searching for the replacement cartridge with that number I cannot find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I can buy the replacement cartridge?
I have an 006, when I pulled the cartridge there was water in the motor coils. Is that normal?
Lots of trouble with the oring? The secret is that the oring profile is not perfectly round. One side is slightly flatter. Flip it and try again.
what is the problem if you changed out the pump cartridge and pump is still leaking
Pros don't replace the cartridge because the cost of the entire pump is about another 20 bucks or less..... If they sold the pump cartridge for $30 bucks it MIGHT be worth the risk...
@Ready Temp the gamble of buying the cartridge be pump. If the whole pump is needed, you eat the cost of a cartridge and drive time to the supply house to get the pump. You can't return the cartridge once installed also.
Where do I find the model number on the tacos
IT EASY ON THE BENCH BUT MY WATERPUMP LOCATION WAS INSTALLED BY POOR BUILDER DEVELOPMENT COMPANY. IT TOOK 3 HOURS TO REMOVE IT. THEY PROBABLY THINK IT LAST A LIFE TIME
Forgot to mention cartrige part number...