Out of all the videos I have watched and even my suzuki repair Manuel they do not explain when putting back the stem to pay attention to the stem lock cut out mad respect for this guy
For everyone commenting on not replacing the race, I submit that if it was on a rotating wheel, yes; on a steering head not necessary unless pitted or rusty. You'll never wear out a race on a steering head!
Great video -- thanks for posting. Steering-head bearings never even manage to make a single revolution and have very different operating conditions compared to wheel bearings (tapered-roller wheel bearings require END-PLAY, while steering-head bearings must be PRELOADED). With that in mind, the following excerpt from Timken Tech Tips, Vol. 7, Issue 2 provides some general background info w.r.t. tapered-roller bearings: "Timken recommends that the mating of components, the cup and cone, be from the same manufacturer. It is also recommended to change both components at the same time. Because the old component has a distinct pattern worn into its raceway, mixing it with a new mating component may set up edge stresses along the races. Following are the technical reasons that parts from various bearing manufacturers should not be mixed: • Incompatible internal bearing profile. • Overall bearing width difference due to tolerance differences. • Bearing rating differences. • Surface finish variations due to different manufacturing processes and technology. • Steel quality and cleanliness variations. • Steel processing and steel type variations. • Variances in worldwide bearing manufacturing quality. Mixing components from multiple manufacturers may seem insignificant, but it can make a big difference when it comes to correctly fitting parts together. International standards only mandate that the same part numbers have the same basic outside diameter, bore and width and cup angle, allowing the internal geometries and characteristics to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer." The bearing cone is mounted onto the steering stem with a light interference fit, and the inner race can be separated from the stem by application of heat once the cage and rollers are removed. The interference fit between the stem and the triple clamp is much tighter. Separation and reassembly of interference-fitted parts by purely mechanical means (without applying differential heating) can weaken that fit.
2 things. I've never had to use a press to remove the lower bearing from the shaft, they might not always come off easily, but they aren't a press fit. And I never would replace a bearing without replacing the races too.
Bearings are available in kits with races as well as individually. If the races have any imperfections, I would 100% recommend replacing the races. However, in this case the races checked out and looked damn near new, so there was no need to change em.
There are really no other good front to back tutorials for this. My bike has the death wobbles anything past 60mph right now. I'm glad this video got posted
it blows me way that you guys only have 701 subscribers, your videos are so informative and perfectly edited. I came here from hoonigans page when you were helping them with the yellow sporty, and instantly subscribed. you guys are awesome! keep doin' what your doin' guys!
I appreciate that man! We have had our TH-cam channel on the back burner for quite a while and are working to be more consistent with content. Thank you for the follow my man!
Im a doit myselfer and good imformation is crucial to doing it rite keep it up. What year bike were you working on? I have 04 dyna and have bought bearings and tools for races.i plan on changing bearings throughout my bike this winter and upgrades as well.
There actually is a measurement in the Harley manual for fall-away, it calls for 2-4" from center left/right at the point of falling on it's own. Though I don't find that to be necessary, your method is just as well. Whoever setup my bike didn't do the fall away properly, when I removed my triple trees for PC and suspension upgrades the adjustment nut was handy loose. My lower bearing was also not a press fit, assuming from excess wear from the neck adjustment being overly loose. Good vid!
i did this job on a 2008 and 2015 and didnt have to press out the steam on either jobs. the lower bearing was on there snug but not hard at all. you can pry it off with some patience or use some heat, after about an inch its in the clear. this should save you some time if youre doing at home.
Yeah it was a nice video I don't know why you didn't change the out the races anyway or even mentioned that the races are supposed to be punched down all the way to the metal rim inside the neck before you do all that so I did learn quite a bit I just tore down my whole front end of my 2006 Dyna FX DLI and I found out that the new triple trees that broke and the new bearings the top race and the bearing are rusted and pitted but both bearings are not pressed down all the way into the frame so maybe you should mention that on a video and somebody didn't line up that neck bolt the lock for the neck when they put it in so that was a very informative I really like that cuz I got to put this thing back together and I don't like going through a Bible it's for one page way back over to another page so these videos are very informative and I appreciate it so that's what I learned and now I got to find a press to do my new bearings and I need to knock out those races to get some new races put in and I will be tapping them down to the edge of the lip where they're supposed to go this is JD all northern and southern California and they call me John and Reno Nevada I appreciate that video like I said I learned a lot
Depending on what you guys have laying around the shop I'd love to see a straight forward comparison of different bars on Dynas. Mine came with 16'' apes, a little too big for me and I've been researching for a few days to find something I like and think will fit via photos. Be cool to have someone install and demonstrate different sizes and styles. Drags, pullbacks, mini apes etc.
I've been told NOT to press out the stem. Cant even get a stock stem without getting it already installed with the lower tree..AND my bottom bearing came right up the stem and off. No problem...went on just as easy..2013 FXDWG. My problem, getting position of upper clamp over the rounded star nut adjuster correct with the bottom..
Those neck bearings were badly worn , I would have definitely replace the bearing races . If anyone wants to know how to correctly check the Fall away , Doc harley has a very helpful video checking the Fall away on Dyna's and large touring bikes , Otherwise Good video .
I was told by a tech that I’ll have to change mine soon. This made me confident I can do most of the work myself except for the press because I don’t have one. Thanks guys.
Good information. I’ve had my xl12 for 4 years now and I’m thinking this is the problem that mine is having. Had a shop replace the front wheel bearing. They didn’t even look at the steering head bearing. Got the bike back (after 3.5 weeks 😡) still shakes like Michael J. Fox. I want to do it myself so I know it’s done right but I don’t have all the equipment to do so. So I’m left with a dilemma, I really don’t want to shell out a fuck load of cash to have this done and I don’t want to take it back to the shop that did the wheel bearing in fear that something is going to go wrong. I guess I’m not looking for an answer I’m just venting. Thanks for the video again. Dirty side down!
Damn, I wish you was in my part of the country. I think the shop I use is good, they just make me nervous sometimes how they work on bikes. I don't want a nick or scratch on it anywhere. Ride a Breakout and I and to have my neck bearing replaced with only 37k miles on it.
Dude. Your instructions are really great, you're far better at intelligent instruction than most DIY Harley videos, videography is great, but did I miss something? You only changed out 66.6% of the bearings!!! Unless I missed it, you left the old outer races in the frame's head tube...??? I'm trying to figure out how to remove them from an '86 FXR, with a massive 3/8" thick head tube aka neck, whose i.d. is smaller than the i.d. of the outer races pressed into the frame!!! Not like some of the hourglass looking neck tubes on most Harley videos where you can catch the underside of the pressed in frame side outer races with a race puller or drift punch. I'm going to dremel a notch into the frame on the frame spine welded-on side, as this won't compromise the neck tube ANY since there's a massive tube welded to it from the outside to support it. With this notch, I'll be able to get a drift punch under it. ALWAYS change the outer races unless you're just just changing the lower bearing to put a new rubber-type seal under it. If the bearing is worn, the race is equally worn. Replace it ALL if ANY of the parts are bad, as they ALL WEAR TOGETHER... Bearings worn & notchy? Races are worn in a corresponding way... Even if only on a micro level. Dont mix & match worn vs new assembly pieces. It's a matched assembly, replace it all together...
Hey Chuck! Bearings are available individually as well as in bearing kits. Timken bearings are not matched to the races and can be purchased individually. Unless the race has some sort of imperfection, which in this case we checked for, swapping the race is somewhat unnecessary. Is new better? Potentially. But, if the installed races are free from imperfections, to clean and regrease is perfectly acceptable. We will have a video showing the race removal/installation process later on as well!
Hello! can you tell me the easiest way to install this product Fork Cup Set, 3 Degree Rake, 2004- Up Harley XL Sportsters form Vulcan engineering company?
Cool video Man! I'm thinking to change my front wheel from my 883 Sportster for something more wide... Do you have some advice? I know that a have to replace for a bigger fork... But now I think that maybe only a have to change the triple trees... What is your opinion?
Tapered bearings are what my old cars use. You supposed to torque and rotate wheel clockwise and then backoff and retorque with inch lb. You cant do that on a bike so i guess thats why the don't last.
I live in Louisiana and the local stealership quoted me about 500. I bought a bearing removal set on CL for 5 bucks and am going to tackle this job tomorrow. Wish me luck.
1st, you guys should say what year and model your working on. 2nd, You could say some steering shafts are welded so just take bearing and Race out. 3rd, We ruined a Triple Tree welded in shaft on a press the shaft was weldwd and does not cone off... Down for 2 weeks and found aftermarket steel one not aluminum.
@@thomasmarchese2808 setting the correct tension/fall away is different on touring bikes but the removal and replacement of the bearings and races are fairly similar.
Great videos guys. Very useful info. Can you do a video on aligning a Dyna engine. I have a 09 stage 3 110 and after replacing my failed front engine mount I have more vibration. Would be good to know proper alignment procedure.
I got one I have 89 fxstc! I haven’t seen a video on start to finish beat remotely and replace! Breaking down swing rear and bolts and start removal! Thank you
Do you guys pay any attention to your emails or people needing customer service.....ive tried MULTIPLE times to get ahold about an order i got charged for but wont provide any reason as to why i got charged but arent sending me my part or even responding....last time you guys get my business...
Disappointed! One shouldn't have to sift through 50+ comments and even more replies to discover that the instruction that convey a sense of authority are misleading, incomplete, and just plain wrong! I mean really, dude?! Even the HD shop manual says DON'T DO THIAT. You must always replace the outer race and stem bearing as a set or dont do it at all. You are better off cleaning and repacking the old inner bearing, even if rust is evident, than to install a new inner on the old race. Seemed like a good resource to subscribe to but that snafu will make me question anything this channel posts and to say DONT TOUCH THIS to the subscribe button. I get it why you have so few subscribers as another comment makes reference to.
Out of all the videos I have watched and even my suzuki repair Manuel they do not explain when putting back the stem to pay attention to the stem lock cut out mad respect for this guy
Great video, the best mechanic video I've seen by far.
This is the best video on how to do this on TH-cam.
Thanks for the how to vid. Doing mine this weekend. You made it look simple.
For everyone commenting on not replacing the race, I submit that if it was on a rotating wheel, yes; on a steering head not necessary unless pitted or rusty. You'll never wear out a race on a steering head!
Great video -- thanks for posting. Steering-head bearings never even manage to make a single revolution and have very different operating conditions compared to wheel bearings (tapered-roller wheel bearings require END-PLAY, while steering-head bearings must be PRELOADED). With that in mind, the following excerpt from Timken Tech Tips, Vol. 7, Issue 2 provides some general background info w.r.t. tapered-roller bearings:
"Timken recommends that the mating of components, the cup and cone, be from the same manufacturer. It is also recommended to change both components at the same time. Because the old component has a distinct pattern worn into its raceway, mixing it with a new mating component may set up edge stresses along the races. Following are the technical reasons that parts from various bearing manufacturers should not be mixed:
• Incompatible internal bearing profile.
• Overall bearing width difference due to tolerance differences.
• Bearing rating differences.
• Surface finish variations due to different manufacturing processes and technology.
• Steel quality and cleanliness variations.
• Steel processing and steel type variations.
• Variances in worldwide bearing manufacturing quality.
Mixing components from multiple manufacturers may seem insignificant, but it can make a big difference when it comes to correctly fitting parts together. International standards only mandate that the same part numbers have the same basic outside diameter, bore and width and cup angle, allowing the internal geometries and characteristics to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer."
The bearing cone is mounted onto the steering stem with a light interference fit, and the inner race can be separated from the stem by application of heat once the cage and rollers are removed. The interference fit between the stem and the triple clamp is much tighter. Separation and reassembly of interference-fitted parts by purely mechanical means (without applying differential heating) can weaken that fit.
2 things. I've never had to use a press to remove the lower bearing from the shaft, they might not always come off easily, but they aren't a press fit. And I never would replace a bearing without replacing the races too.
What is your method for pressing the bearings in?
They are press to fit on a dyna
They are a press fit lol
They certainly aren't press fit on late model dynas..
Awesome video. This will be on my winter project list. I’ll tackle a bunch of stuff at once. Tires brakes and all when it’s apart.
I came here for the hammer and punch. Stayed for the “oh shit. Fucked it!”
Thanks for posting this. Helped me immensely tonight.
I would most definitly change out the bearing races with the ones the new bearings came with, crucial.
Bearings are available in kits with races as well as individually. If the races have any imperfections, I would 100% recommend replacing the races. However, in this case the races checked out and looked damn near new, so there was no need to change em.
There are really no other good front to back tutorials for this. My bike has the death wobbles anything past 60mph right now. I'm glad this video got posted
If you have the wobble of death does that point to head bearings?
@@adminadmin9997 swing arm bushings is another place to consider checking.
As well as forks. Worn seals with really low fluid, especially if it’s one side will get you a tank slapper in a hurry.
Motor mounts, swing arm bushings and misaligned rear wheels cause it too. Dynas don't like worn tires either.
What was the diameter and the length of that pipe? Or is it a special tool? What should the cost be if I brought it in to a shop?
Most complete and helpful video I've seen about this part of a Dyna!
it blows me way that you guys only have 701 subscribers, your videos are so informative and perfectly edited. I came here from hoonigans page when you were helping them with the yellow sporty, and instantly subscribed. you guys are awesome! keep doin' what your doin' guys!
I appreciate that man! We have had our TH-cam channel on the back burner for quite a while and are working to be more consistent with content. Thank you for the follow my man!
Me to! These guys are cool
Im a doit myselfer and good imformation is crucial to doing it rite keep it up. What year bike were you working on? I have 04 dyna and have bought bearings and tools for races.i plan on changing bearings throughout my bike this winter and upgrades as well.
Good video! Maybe give torque specs for us guys that don’t have a service manual or are just lazy and would rather just come to a video to hear them .
Thanks for sharing this with us. Straight to the point
There actually is a measurement in the Harley manual for fall-away, it calls for 2-4" from center left/right at the point of falling on it's own. Though I don't find that to be necessary, your method is just as well. Whoever setup my bike didn't do the fall away properly, when I removed my triple trees for PC and suspension upgrades the adjustment nut was handy loose. My lower bearing was also not a press fit, assuming from excess wear from the neck adjustment being overly loose. Good vid!
what about servicing forks seals and springs on a 750 street rod with inverted tubes..Thanks!
Am from Nigeria and most of the tools use may not be available, is there any easier Way
Where can I get one of those blocks with the speed holes in it for press fitting bearings etc?
Great video. Very good teacher
Now I just have to buy a hydraulic press and it's done. Perfect tip!
Na you don't need to. Get an end grinder and a burr bit and be very gentle cut the bearing cage being easy not to get into the shaft
Nice job ! Too bad you not closer to PA. Keep up the Great work and entertainment !
Best i have seen. No bullshit.
Thanks, I was wondering how to get the lower bearing off.
i did this job on a 2008 and 2015 and didnt have to press out the steam on either jobs. the lower bearing was on there snug but not hard at all. you can pry it off with some patience or use some heat, after about an inch its in the clear. this should save you some time if youre doing at home.
Cheers for that chum. Doing this this weekend. Wondered about that.
Will this help with death wobbles ?
This is a gem!
Yeah it was a nice video I don't know why you didn't change the out the races anyway or even mentioned that the races are supposed to be punched down all the way to the metal rim inside the neck before you do all that so I did learn quite a bit I just tore down my whole front end of my 2006 Dyna FX DLI and I found out that the new triple trees that broke and the new bearings the top race and the bearing are rusted and pitted but both bearings are not pressed down all the way into the frame so maybe you should mention that on a video and somebody didn't line up that neck bolt the lock for the neck when they put it in so that was a very informative I really like that cuz I got to put this thing back together and I don't like going through a Bible it's for one page way back over to another page so these videos are very informative and I appreciate it so that's what I learned and now I got to find a press to do my new bearings and I need to knock out those races to get some new races put in and I will be tapping them down to the edge of the lip where they're supposed to go this is JD all northern and southern California and they call me John and Reno Nevada I appreciate that video like I said I learned a lot
Great video, short sweet and to the point, not an endless amount of bullshit chatter, self promotion, general stupidity... thank you for that!
Thanks for showing this
I like your products TrackerDie 🤘🏻 keep up the good work!
Nice video & explaining ✌🏼🥰
Depending on what you guys have laying around the shop I'd love to see a straight forward comparison of different bars on Dynas. Mine came with 16'' apes, a little too big for me and I've been researching for a few days to find something I like and think will fit via photos. Be cool to have someone install and demonstrate different sizes and styles. Drags, pullbacks, mini apes etc.
I’m 5:11 I got 14 inch t bars they’re basically shoulder level. 14 -12 may work
This is Quality content!!
Man you guys make me want to get a bike so bad
Awesome video! Thanks!
I've been told NOT to press out the stem. Cant even get a stock stem without getting it already installed with the lower tree..AND my bottom bearing came right up the stem and off. No problem...went on just as easy..2013 FXDWG. My problem, getting position of upper clamp over the rounded star nut adjuster correct with the bottom..
Excellent video, my Dyna has 61k , I don't think Harley did anything at 30K? So I will just change them out. thanks again.
How did the look after you shaped them out at 60k
How long does it take from start to finish?
Those neck bearings were badly worn , I would have definitely replace the bearing races . If anyone wants to know how to correctly check the Fall away , Doc harley has a very helpful video checking the Fall away on Dyna's and large touring bikes , Otherwise Good video .
I was told by a tech that I’ll have to change mine soon. This made me confident I can do most of the work myself except for the press because I don’t have one. Thanks guys.
Harbor freight
What about changing the bearings in a softail swing arm? And tork specs for bolts on this job
It appears to me that their torque specs are tight foot lbs of torque 😂
Nice video. Thanks for posting it.
Good information. I’ve had my xl12 for 4 years now and I’m thinking this is the problem that mine is having. Had a shop replace the front wheel bearing. They didn’t even look at the steering head bearing. Got the bike back (after 3.5 weeks 😡) still shakes like Michael J. Fox. I want to do it myself so I know it’s done right but I don’t have all the equipment to do so. So I’m left with a dilemma, I really don’t want to shell out a fuck load of cash to have this done and I don’t want to take it back to the shop that did the wheel bearing in fear that something is going to go wrong. I guess I’m not looking for an answer I’m just venting. Thanks for the video again. Dirty side down!
Damn, I wish you was in my part of the country. I think the shop I use is good, they just make me nervous sometimes how they work on bikes. I don't want a nick or scratch on it anywhere. Ride a Breakout and I and to have my neck bearing replaced with only 37k miles on it.
When I say" ohhh Fuck" its usually a major fuck up...lol Great vid with lots of great info
when I fuck up its hundreds or thousands $$$. I don't mess up a lot, but when I do its big.
Muy buen video. Me gustaria preguntarte si esto podria ser la causa de las vibraciones de mi manillar. Gracias
Any idea on how to remove the bottom bearing on a 77’ xlh1000. As the steering stem is welded to the bottom triple tree
Thanks for taking the time to post this helpful video.
Makes me want to change mine, so informative!!
Always put in new races with new bearings, come on.
that's not how those slap shot idiot monkey mechanics do things so shut your mouth ya fuel
Exactly what I thought,always,replace the race????
If the races are in good shape why go through the extra headache of replacing them
dope content bro. currently troubleshooting a speed wobble issue. i think ill do this in the coming week and see if this takes care of it.
Is this task more of a pain in the butt on a 2012 Harley Tri Glide?
is there any chance to damage the threads when you press the steam?
How big a press does one need for this (length wise)??
The bottom Allen bolt that you tightened at the end what is it’s purpose?? Thanks guys. Video was great!
Thats for the brake line
Can I use that method on road glide? What’s the torque settings?
Thanks guys - doing the bearing this weekend - appreciate the vid
Not one torque wrench?
Dude. Your instructions are really great, you're far better at intelligent instruction than most DIY Harley videos, videography is great, but did I miss something? You only changed out 66.6% of the bearings!!! Unless I missed it, you left the old outer races in the frame's head tube...???
I'm trying to figure out how to remove them from an '86 FXR, with a massive 3/8" thick head tube aka neck, whose i.d. is smaller than the i.d. of the outer races pressed into the frame!!! Not like some of the hourglass looking neck tubes on most Harley videos where you can catch the underside of the pressed in frame side outer races with a race puller or drift punch.
I'm going to dremel a notch into the frame on the frame spine welded-on side, as this won't compromise the neck tube ANY since there's a massive tube welded to it from the outside to support it.
With this notch, I'll be able to get a drift punch under it.
ALWAYS change the outer races unless you're just just changing the lower bearing to put a new rubber-type seal under it. If the bearing is worn, the race is equally worn. Replace it ALL if ANY of the parts are bad, as they ALL WEAR TOGETHER... Bearings worn & notchy? Races are worn in a corresponding way... Even if only on a micro level. Dont mix & match worn vs new assembly pieces. It's a matched assembly, replace it all together...
Hey Chuck! Bearings are available individually as well as in bearing kits. Timken bearings are not matched to the races and can be purchased individually. Unless the race has some sort of imperfection, which in this case we checked for, swapping the race is somewhat unnecessary. Is new better? Potentially. But, if the installed races are free from imperfections, to clean and regrease is perfectly acceptable. We will have a video showing the race removal/installation process later on as well!
How much would this cost at a Harley dealer. How often do you need tp do this
500-600 dollars....the bearings are less than 50 bucks but there is a lot of labor....
Great informative video chaps. Cheers for that. Doing this this weekend on my 14 Lowrider.
Hello! can you tell me the easiest way to install this product Fork Cup Set, 3 Degree Rake, 2004- Up Harley XL Sportsters form Vulcan engineering company?
Cool video Man!
I'm thinking to change my front wheel from my 883 Sportster for something more wide... Do you have some advice?
I know that a have to replace for a bigger fork... But now I think that maybe only a have to change the triple trees... What is your opinion?
Tapered bearings are what my old cars use. You supposed to torque and rotate wheel clockwise and then backoff and retorque with inch lb. You cant do that on a bike so i guess thats why the don't last.
What’s this procedure cost to have done in a shop (ballpark)?
Came across this vid.. Awesome work! Thank you. Subscribed.
First vid I've seen of yours, and I was very impressed. Love watching professionals work on Harley's. Look forward to more - sub'd and liked. 👍
Good shit bro beans... im at mmi doing the same thing! Thanks for the extra help
u don't need to press the stem or bearing
Wht would you guess a good independant shop would charge to change the neck bearings and races on 2009 Low Rider?
I live in Louisiana and the local stealership quoted me about 500. I bought a bearing removal set on CL for 5 bucks and am going to tackle this job tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Do one on motor mounts please
1st, you guys should say what year and model your working on.
2nd, You could say some steering shafts are welded so just take bearing and Race out.
3rd, We ruined a Triple Tree welded in shaft on a press the shaft was weldwd and does not cone off...
Down for 2 weeks and found aftermarket steel one not aluminum.
Awesome video guys, very informative needs more torque settings though I’ve gotta look up the service manual for the settings now
Who makes that pipe used to press out the stem and bearings?
JIMS USA
Need to see how seals were installed
Great video
There’s definitely a measurement for fall away lol
DO NOT USE HIGH SPEED GREASE ON THE NECK BEARING AND YOU HAVE TO LEARN HOW TO HANDLE BEARINGS. YOUR HOME WORK LET ME KNOW SO I DO NOT DO THAT WRONG.
Thank you!! This is exactly what I needed. I’m assuming this process is very similar for the Street Glide, right?
No. Touring bikes use a swing back method. Touring bikes have special trees that return to center. Completely different adjustment.
Thomas Marchese well shit lol
@@thomasmarchese2808 setting the correct tension/fall away is different on touring bikes but the removal and replacement of the bearings and races are fairly similar.
Aaron Visuals?
You didn't replace the Sleeves inside the neck...
Over all a great video
Thank you brother
well done. thanks!
Bigger cam and other power how to’s?
show us a bike that needs the steering adjusted and the process in doing so
Thanks for the video , I will be doing mine this winter ...
Good video but there is a measurement to the fall away for a reason.
Bearing number ?
OMG! Thank YOU! You just saved me.
Great videos guys. Very useful info.
Can you do a video on aligning a Dyna engine. I have a 09 stage 3 110 and after replacing my failed front engine mount I have more vibration. Would be good to know proper alignment procedure.
I got one I have 89 fxstc! I haven’t seen a video on start to finish beat remotely and replace! Breaking down swing rear and bolts and start removal! Thank you
Do you guys pay any attention to your emails or people needing customer service.....ive tried MULTIPLE times to get ahold about an order i got charged for but wont provide any reason as to why i got charged but arent sending me my part or even responding....last time you guys get my business...
wrong,wrong,wrong. always change the race and bering as a set, for they area matched at the factory or Mfg. good review
Just read the replies from trackerdie dude. Theyre fully aware of that
Disappointed! One shouldn't have to sift through 50+ comments and even more replies to discover that the instruction that convey a sense of authority are misleading, incomplete, and just plain wrong! I mean really, dude?! Even the HD shop manual says DON'T DO THIAT. You must always replace the outer race and stem bearing as a set or dont do it at all. You are better off cleaning and repacking the old inner bearing, even if rust is evident, than to install a new inner on the old race. Seemed like a good resource to subscribe to but that snafu will make me question anything this channel posts and to say DONT TOUCH THIS to the subscribe button. I get it why you have so few subscribers as another comment makes reference to.
Christopher Tayler chill! 😂
Excellent but I would use super lube on my bike
You guys still in business or??
You never went over that special tool 😬
Damn good teacher
block tube