I learned a simple technic as a you man. #9 wire one loop around posts with a tightening stick of locust. Just twist the loop and rest the stick against by rail. Quick and cheap. We had tractor mounted post driver in the late 60s
Very good video. Zooming in on the handling of wire crimping and threading of high tinsel wire into the tensioners would have been more helpful. Also, zoom on the pin instillation for cross brace posts into the vertical posts would have been nice. Thanks, Rick - Tennessee
I use lag screws, not staples on brace wire. Will not work loose. I like to use three posts with 2 horizontal braces for all long fences, like the video.
I place my top brace pin a little differently. I almost drive it in flush but I leave it out 1/2" and it makes a nice place to land the brace wire as I wrap it around twice. The brace wire is placed on top of the pin and is pulled down as tension is applied. Stronger than a staple and holds stout.
so you didn't comment on whether to set the pin a little higher on the corner most post so as to avoid hitting the other pin? Looks like you didn't double the wire as you did in the first video. did you mention the different in pin lengths, five inches and ten inches?
My mistake was using 12.5 gauge sleeve on a 12 gauge brace wire which didn’t crimp the wire well together and slipped and detached when I tighten on my strainer. My local tractor co didn’t have any 14 gauge sleeves.
It doesn't add strength at the ends of the wire it adds strength as a whole to lessen stretching. I'm not a physics expert I just know what works in the field from experience.
I do have one suggestion. Not trying to be an expert but the double h brace would be stronger and take the weight of say a cow or calf running into the fence better if it was braced with the wire contradicting on the posts from bottom center to both top sides on the outside posts. The pull from an animal hitting the fence on the side of the brace that the most pull is already on can loosen after a while or maybe even break posts off if they are pulled too tightly in one direction.
Couple questions. 1. Why would you measure down from top of posts andThe. up from the ground which is where the ht of fence is determined? I could see this is OK if you got every post to the same ht...but we know in real life this never happens. 2. In that corner post, if the holes are not offset by some distance the pin holes and pins would hit each other. I didn't hear any mention of that? Are they offset by some distance? Thx.
1. Watch the previous videos and you'll see how they set the posts at the same height. 2. Use your head. Either drill your second hole at an angle to miss the first or just move it down 1/2 in or so, in which case you drill your hole in the end of your horizontal a little lower to compensate and no one is the wiser.
This is end to corner sections. Around where i live its a pipe and 2 nails for the top. The tension wire has a pipe between the posts thats twisted tensioning the wire.
Are you talking about the twisting that posts get after awhile on most fences, which keeps loosening the fence? I always terminate on the inner post of the H instead of the outer for two reasons: 1) to keep the wire centered so no post twisting occurs over time, and 2) to distribute the pull evenly between the two posts, instead of having almost all the pull on the end post. It is simple to then fill in between the posts. You can even lag some 2x's across as a climber.
At a gate in the middle of a straight run, how do you run the wire? I would set posts on either side of the gate, then one more on either side to brace with. Maybe this will help get my point across: ___ ___ ----------------------- | | GATE | | ------------------- A). \ / B). / \ C). X X Which way should wire run? A, B, or C?
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I learned a simple technic as a you man. #9 wire one loop around posts with a tightening stick of locust. Just twist the loop and rest the stick against by rail. Quick and cheap. We had tractor mounted post driver in the late 60s
great explanation of the process! Thanks for the help
Very good video. Zooming in on the handling of wire crimping and threading of high tinsel wire into the tensioners would have been more helpful. Also, zoom on the pin instillation for cross brace posts into the vertical posts would have been nice.
Thanks, Rick - Tennessee
Great explanation and simple to follow. Thanks
Thanks for the help !
Dude this is very helpfull and a well done video
I use lag screws, not staples on brace wire. Will not work loose. I like to use three posts with 2 horizontal braces for all long fences, like the video.
I place my top brace pin a little differently. I almost drive it in flush but I leave it out 1/2" and it makes a nice place to land the brace wire as I wrap it around twice. The brace wire is placed on top of the pin and is pulled down as tension is applied. Stronger than a staple and holds stout.
Wrapping the brace wire twice adds strength. The most important part of your fence are the braces.
YES VERY IMPORTANT GOOD BRACING STRONG FRNCE
great vid
thanks guys great video helped me heaps
Thanks a lot, very helpful. Good videos.
Good vid. Thank you.
That's one nice pole barn!
Wow, thats a great video, thank you.
If need any electric fence products, you can choose lydite
so you didn't comment on whether to set the pin a little higher on the corner most post so as to avoid hitting the other pin? Looks like you didn't double the wire as you did in the first video. did you mention the different in pin lengths, five inches and ten inches?
What are the advantages of using smooth brace pins vs. lag screws ??
This is very professional.
Most tension wire I've seen is a strand of barb wire with a short stick that you twist until tight.
YOU CAN BARB WIRE INSTEAD OF SMOOTH WIRE ALSO FOR AN AGRSSIVE FENCE ONE BARB WIRE UNDER THE WIVEN WIRE AND 2 OR 3 ON TOP
My mistake was using 12.5 gauge sleeve on a 12 gauge brace wire which didn’t crimp the wire well together and slipped and detached when I tighten on my strainer. My local tractor co didn’t have any 14 gauge sleeves.
It doesn't add strength at the ends of the wire it adds strength as a whole to lessen stretching. I'm not a physics expert I just know what works in the field from experience.
I can't find the brace pins. Where can I find them?
I do have one suggestion. Not trying to be an expert but the double h brace would be stronger and take the weight of say a cow or calf running into the fence better if it was braced with the wire contradicting on the posts from bottom center to both top sides on the outside posts. The pull from an animal hitting the fence on the side of the brace that the most pull is already on can loosen after a while or maybe even break posts off if they are pulled too tightly in one direction.
YES YES
At some important tasks like pin insertion etc.... closeup shots could have helped....better.
what is the recommended length of a fence to require a double h brace?
We don't crimp it we just wrap it and it works out just as good
it would have helped if the camera was a little closer to the work.
It was perfect. I hate zoomed recordings. Zoom in yourself or get a bigger monitor.
Couple questions.
1. Why would you measure down from top of posts andThe. up from the ground which is where the ht of fence is determined? I could see this is OK if you got every post to the same ht...but we know in real life this never happens.
2. In that corner post, if the holes are not offset by some distance the pin holes and pins would hit each other. I didn't hear any mention of that? Are they offset by some distance?
Thx.
1. Watch the previous videos and you'll see how they set the posts at the same height.
2. Use your head. Either drill your second hole at an angle to miss the first or just move it down 1/2 in or so, in which case you drill your hole in the end of your horizontal a little lower to compensate and no one is the wiser.
Every how many feet is a brace needed?
Is this for the middle of the fence? Or can the same technique be done for the corner post without doing an N brace.
This is end to corner sections. Around where i live its a pipe and 2 nails for the top. The tension wire has a pipe between the posts thats twisted tensioning the wire.
@@brandoncaldwell95 i did H braces on the corners, with tension making the N.
Almost a year ago now.
Are you talking about the twisting that posts get after awhile on most fences, which keeps loosening the fence? I always terminate on the inner post of the H instead of the outer for two reasons: 1) to keep the wire centered so no post twisting occurs over time, and 2) to distribute the pull evenly between the two posts, instead of having almost all the pull on the end post. It is simple to then fill in between the posts. You can even lag some 2x's across as a climber.
Correct. Don't stretch from the corner
Ever. In the Northeast, staple every 6th post tight. The rest are loose
anyone watching in 2021
At a gate in the middle of a straight run, how do you run the wire? I would set posts on either side of the gate, then one more on either side to brace with.
Maybe this will help get my point across:
___ ___
----------------------- | | GATE | | -------------------
A). \ /
B). / \
C). X X
Which way should wire run? A, B, or C?
On all multiple choice tests, I always go with, "All of the above." My answer is "D".
B. Because the weight of the gate will pull the top of the post inward, so there needs to be a wire holding the top of the post back.
Me too. =/
The "gear" cost less than $3 .... leave them in.
Hello ; is mortar mix a no no?
钢丝多粗？？
There are a few ways to build h-braces. Here is the way we do it - th-cam.com/video/iB79QFMOmb4/w-d-xo.html
NEVER USE SMOOTH WIRE FOR BRACING WIRE ALL WAY US 4 BARB WIRE FOR CROSS BRACING
Explain your logic please?