General winter boat jobs ; deck & engine maintenance, removing the fore stay and much more!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 เม.ย. 2020
- There are always jobs to do on a sailboat and we try to get as much done off season here in the Med as possible.
There are separate videos for oil change, winch maintenance, varnishing, bilge pump maintenance and rigging. So this is the stuff thats left... and there's quite a lot!
So in this video we delve into teak deck maintenance, cleaning and protecting with Semco, something I thoroughly recommend for teak decks.
We also tackle the problem with out roller furling which involves removing the fore stay, always a tricky business for the uninitiated.
We look at whats left to do on the engine this year, lacquering some of the Bronze (I went with 'Intralac' this year so we will see how that goes.
I replaced the seals in the hatches, having hatches that leak can be really annoying! And much more.
Do take a look at this video as I'm sure there will be something in there thats relavent for you.
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Great idea wrapping some screws with electrical tape to offset the chances of them coming loose from vibration. One tip a mechanic shared is that when you're done wrapping, don't stretch the tape to break it, but keep it loose and cut it with a knife; that will help prevent it from coming loose at the end. Appreciate your attention to detail; keep up the good work!
Yes I’m sure that’s good advice with electrical tape. I do often use self amalgamating tape instead though and of course in that case breaking by stretching is better.
Top tip Steve for aluminium is to fit stainless helicoils and you will never have the problem of a stripped aluminium thread ever again.
Very informative even for us beginner motor boaters )..thanks for sharing your multitude of boating knowledge you can never stop learning i much prefer this channel to many as its a lot more ,lets say documentary styled rather than soap opera safe sailing.
I love your BOAT! If it was mine I would do the same maintenance too. So jealous, but so happy for you guys. Thanks for sharing ❤️
I don't own a boat, and I wish I will at some point in my life, but I'm astonished by the amount of knowledge goes into taking care of your boat. I can tell the passion this guy has.
I found it extremely interesting and useful, and I haven't even got a boat.
Now I know you're loosing it Jeremy!
Jeremy Mitchell same..I think I’m hooked to these boat repair and upkeep videos is cos only boat I could afford is one I would need to repair by my self 😂
I feel like I am back in school with a very good teacher, many thanks again
Like a lot of blokes I Love the mechanical stuff , more of these please 👍
You make some awesome how-to videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I'm in lock down in Kuala Lumpur, day 24 ! 🤦♂️ so thank you for providing some therapeutic relief and while keeping ze boat looking rather spiffy (another great TH-cam channel which i am sure you know😉) ! Be safe and make the most that you can in this crazy world we are living in at the moment 🙌
Another excellent technical tutorial on various jobs around Fair Isle. Yes, please do a section on various lubricant’s. Thank you.
A lot of work, but a labor of love I’m sure. Thank you for making these videos.
Happy Easter and thanks for the videos. From Japan in Quarantine
I haven't heard much about the situation in Japan. I hope you guys are doing okay.
@@svfairisle Thanks for your concern all is up and running to a certain extend. we call it a soft ( to soft for us ) quarantine . Japan is a bit behind the curve on infection. will see. thank you for the passionate videos and your classy approach to sailing.
Really enjoy all your videos. Like the technical series as so many useful hints and tips. I can see why Fairisle always looks immaculate!
I’m very impressed with your workmanship, we all know that maintenance work on boats is never simple, one job seems to generate two more. Your professionalism makes me feel inadequate, most of my boat maintenance ends in a visit to A&E!
The more I see that boat, the more I like it.
I’m from the school that says, leave teak to breath, only ever used borocal. The problem with varnish and sealants is that once you start it becomes a regular job to keep the finish looking good. Having said that, I drawl over the varnish work on classic yachts.
Great stuff Steve very much appreciated. Keep them coming and stay safe!
Love your technical video's! Keep em' coming ;) Please do one on the sorts of greases and lubricants you have lying around, thanks alot.
Another excellent vid, Steve, most enjoyable !
Very useful information thankyou for producing these, keep them coming
I’m just a wierdo really,I don’t have boat,I have not been on boat a decade,but I can’t avoid to watch videos about all related to sailing,especially upkeep of boats..I guess it’s cos I’m poor and my only chance apart of vining lottery is getting old boat and repair it my self 😂 so yeah,grateful for these repair and upkeep videos,gives me hope I need
Just love these videos. Exactly what i need. Thank you.
Very informative, thanks for posting.
Well done. I'll have to look into the "O" Ring fix for my latches. Excellent video and very helpful.
Great information! Thank you.
Very informative, thank you.
Excellent video, thank you!
Great videos, would make an excellent reference book for new sailors.
Really useful and excellent delivery. Thanks
I wondered if you considered the long springs that keep doors /hatches open for the engine doors? They stay open until you put pressure from the side and then go loose to close. If your case you would use your foot. So much room in your engine bay and so neat. André
Yes springs would do a good job
Hi Steve, absolute useful. I liked all tools you have on the door to the engine compartment. s/v cadhoa had a problem getting there pieces apart when fixing the sail drive. They put the troublesome parts in the oven, and it just fall apart nicely. Maybe something to test on your roller furler next time. Keep up these technical episodes coming, you always learn something new. Well done.
Happy Easter Fair Isle and go safe
Brilliant technical filmography !! I think I would do something with that secret passage to a Narnia world , don't feel it's needed there. And you did all the jobs without a few pieces not belonging to anywhere ;-)
Yes my sail locker can seem like a Narnia world at times, never know what you're gonna find in there!
Thank you very informative
Best thing I've seen for cleaning bright-works is brasso , the one with wadding in the tin.
That’s what I thought... then I found 3m’s polish & Gtechniq brass restorer which are both in another league!
@@svfairisle I'd have to try it out, but I'm apt to believe you seeing as 3m really does have a stellar product line-up lol.
I have hanked on head sails and I have furling head sails and I must admit when things go wrong I prefer hanked on sails! A hanked on head sail with a downhaul is far less trouble than a furling headsail with a problem.
I sailed for many years as a youngster with hanked on headsails, never again! If I were racing I might consider it... but even then! Several of the GGR competitors went with hanked on sails and regretted it. We we had the problem with the headsail we just dropped it the same way you would if it were slab reefed so not a problem. Roller reefing main, now that's another matter!
@@svfairisle I have boom roller reefing main sail which has its advantages and disadvantages.
Brilliant thanks
Brilliant video. Beautiful boat. I have two comments though. Wear glasses as the absolute minimum of protection when using a grinder and o-ring grease is preferable to vaseline on o-rings and plastics.
A mine full off information, thank you
Thanks. This is a tonic. No gin needed.
great video I feel the need to comment on the oil change interval, additional engine hours of use are not detrimental to the oil in fact sparse and short duration use do far more damage to the oil due to acidification associated with condensate and combustion by products. If you were to drop below 100hrs per year or if most of your motoring was less than 30 minutes I would increase oil change frequency.
Yes technical but it was very much worth watching
Yes I got from this that I need to get my Rs in gear as soon as the lockdown is over..... so much to do and cant get to the yacht.
Very frustrating!
I am not sure you will read this being an old video but with your screws and the problems you have there I have an idea. Can you use Allen Head bolts that come with lock wire holes and use s/s wire? Then you could use anti-seize and they will stay in place. Not sure if it's suitable. Just an idea.
Thanks for the info keep it coming, I think I would of sunk my boat by now if it wasn't for TH-cam lol
Can't believe that front swivel is manufactured without grease nipples.
👍
You really should not use Vaseline O rings. The petroleum will break down the rubber. You should be using silicone grease instead. Most dive stores carry this
Good point with natural rubber. But actually most o rings are much more sophisticated polymers these days. The ones I use are Nitrile that are resistant to just about anything. Cheap on amazon too, i paid £3.16 for 10! www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07W4WV84X/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There is no such thing as a UV protecter, what is meant is a UV absorber. That is all you can incorporate in a clear coat.
This absorber absorbs till its is full, so to say. After that no protection against UV is peft. The time during which it absorbs
Cannot be stated before, that all depends on the amount of absorber in the clear coat. As it is a very expensive additive,
Paint producers tend to add as littla as possible. IT is because of this reason that I always state, a clear coat is not UV resistant
In any way. To obtain good UV resistance use of an opaque paint is needed, preferably white, as that will not get hot in the sun.
This however cannot be used on a nice teak deck, so conclusion must be, leave it at it is, grey is beatifull. A rinse with salt water from time to
Time keeps it clean fron molds.
Enjoyed the whole video but was especially interested in the device you have to adjust the alternator belt tension. It's brilliant for people like me that have an engine "compartment" rather than an engine "room"! What's it called?
Its called the ' Balmar universal belt buddy' got to love these American names! It's overpriced for what it is, to be honest I should have got a bit of threaded rod & just made a captive nut and a moveable nut and it would have done the job. And you're right if you havent got the room to get over the top of the alternator and heave it over you've got no chance of tensioning the belt properly so its extremely important especially as people have been reporting Balmar alternators dying from fan belt dust. That would be some very expensive dust!!
How do you tension the belt on your engine water pump?
By getting a belt the right size. It has 180 degree wrap and very very little resistance so you could virtually do it with an elastic band! If it were a serpentine belt you could have a sprung roller but v belts dont like being bent backwards. But as I said there's really no problem a reasonably tight fit with a v belt means it wont slip, it wont tension the bearing (a big problem when incorporated with the alternator because the tension then has to be massive in comparison and the wrap is much less) and because theres little tension it wont stretch, especially with the Nutlink belt I'm using.
I don’t own and boat and I found this very entertaining. :) The 7 people that voted this down should be prosecuted punished to the full extent of the law 😂
Good man!
Quick question looking at your bow. Did you ever consider opening the rail in the front, so that you can get off over the bow more easily. Or do you always go into a berth with the stern or sideways to a dock. (I hope the terms I used are comprehensible)? I looked at some respective ideas for our HC41. Any ideas? Thanks for the videos.
We do often go in bow to ( reversing in is such a bu&&@r with long keeled boats!) At the moment we're happy stepping over the rail, the bow sprit extends beyond it and you can put your foot on that. I've made a wooden platform that fits on top to make this easier, I'll try to show it when we use it next.
Love the 41 by the way, prettiest of the lot!
Sailing Fair Isle Do you have a ladder to attach? The bow sprit sometimes is quite high above the dock. While jumping down may be possible, getting back up again might be quite a challenge. (I can‘t attach a photo here can I??
No I don't think YT does pictures. We havent been in need of a ladder yet. If it becomes an issue I'd probably go for some sort of box that you can put on the quay to step up on.
How do you polish your stainless steel, it looks immaculate!
Once you've got it in good condition with Autosol or whatever metal polish you want to use I find a regular wipe over with fresh water is all it needs.
@@svfairisle thanks, I'll have a go😊
did you think of installing a diesel day tank
What's a diesel day tank?!
@@svfairisle th-cam.com/video/AQruMvQjxh0/w-d-xo.html
I would also add this to make it a fuel polishing system around 20 micron
th-cam.com/video/0GiSKWPMaUg/w-d-xo.html
using a 10 micron on the racor filter, 5 micron on the engine filter
I love your channel and enjoy all your videos, HOWEVER...
A major cringe moment watching you use the plyers on the turnbuckles and nuts instead of an adjustable wrench (shutter!) I have more than once given an apprentice an earful or even a (light) slap upside the head for such a thing (yes no longer PC but those were different times). Why would you mar your stainless like that?
Good point, duly chastised!
Those are Knipex, not just any pliers, they are micro adjustable and the jaws stay parallel to each other, even recommended by Brion Toss for that very same job.
@@chicoastro1 Yes I know, they are the only kind I use, together with Bacho adjustable wrenches. I just wasn't sure of the English name for them. But even then, they will still leave a mark if any pressure is exerted.
Really love your videos but please, please change your intro music. It sounds like a 1970's public safety film. I'm sure you can find something a little more modern. :)
Ha! When I first started at the BBC one of my first jobs was transferring Public Information Films from film to video, so it's nostalgic for me!
@@svfairisle I really like your intro music. It's positive.
Your O rings will last longer if you use lanolin instead of Vaseline, petroleum products eat O rings.
They are nitrile so Vaseline is no problem. Always use nitrile if you can not rubber on a boat, it's not only petroleum based products that degrade rubber.
oh boy.... I do not think that wd-40 is a good thing for electrical conectors...
Why do you think that? WD40 is just a water displacement, anti corrosion thin oil, perfect for to get into electrical switches and connectors. I use dielectric grease on anything that comes apart but for inaccessible items it’s perfect
Why do so many good sailing channels eventually end up having babies or doing how to videos?
I'm waiting for the first channel to do a 'how to have a baby' video!
Very very informative, thanks!
great video I feel the need to comment on the oil change interval, additional engine hours of use are not detrimental to the oil in fact sparse and short duration use do far more damage to the oil due to acidification associated with condensate and combustion by products. If you were to drop below 100hrs per year or if most of your motoring was less than 30 minutes I would increase oil change frequency.
That's a good point, if for some reason you were constantly running the engine and not getting to operating temperature you might want to increase oil changes to more than once a year even if you weren't putting in the hours. However I would just avoid do that altogether and make sure I regularly got the engine up to temp.
great video I feel the need to comment on the oil change interval, additional engine hours of use are not detrimental to the oil in fact sparse and short duration use do far more damage to the oil due to acidification associated with condensate and combustion by products. If you were to drop below 100hrs per year or if most of your motoring was less than 30 minutes I would increase oil change frequency.
Good for you making the comment 3 times... increases interaction and helps on TH-cam! Hope you're watching the adverts as well!!