Boat Lift - Antifoul
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2019
- This is guide covering what to do when lifting your boat for antifouling and general maintenance. We cover Prop servicing, changing anodes, repairing scratches on the topsides, checking your sea-cocks and lots of other little jobs to be done when your boat is on the hard.
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/ sailingfairisle
While Galvanic corrosion is slightly different to Electrolytic corrosion, I don't yet understand why at
th-cam.com/video/q7W8UwvO548/w-d-xo.html
Tightening something up squashes all the grease out of metal to metal contact, giving you a good Electrical connection.
But for example with an Aluminium screw in stainless steel you add some No-Ox-ID or similar, tighten it up, and the grease provides a Barrier between the dissimilar metals?
How can a coating between metal contacts be squashed out, and not be squashed out ?
People think of surfaces, especially shiny ones as being flat. On a macroscopic level they are but on a microscopic level even glass is extremely pitted. This means placing a paste like material like grease between them and screwing/bolting them up tight will push the grease into the crevices leaving areas where there is metal to metal contact only on the high points. This makes your electrical contact. It is the same without the grease, the high points would be in contact but the crevices would be open spaces prone to ingress of salt water or whatever they were exposed to. So the coating isn't squashed out, it is squashed in! Hope that makes sense !!
@@svfairisle
Thanks for the reply,
Yes I did understand that part.
To be more clear.
Metal on metal with a coating = good contact. (Galvanic)
Metal on metal with a coating = bad contact, ie a barrier (Electrolytic )
I was musing on how the same procedure can produce the exact opposite in regard to contact properties between metals.
No reply expected, I just need to do some research :) Fair winds.
Transmit This It’s actually easier to answer than you think. Dielectric grease doesn’t act as a barrier as discussed, it fills the gaps but allows the high points on the metal to connect. So for electrical and galvanic systems is works by keeping corrosive salt water out of the gaps next to your good connection. In electrolytic applications i.e. your stainless bolt in an aluminium fitting is works in the same way by filling the gaps and stopping salt water entering the system an acting as an electrolyte. For electrolysis to happen you need dissimilar metals AND an electrolyte. Dielectric grease is non conducting and is a very bad electrolyte, applied to the thread it keeps the salt water (good electrolyte) out and protects the aluminium thread from corrosion. Add a plastic washer or something for the screw/bolt head (grease will wash out too easily) and water can’t creep under there either and act as the electrolyte so you should be free from electrolytic corrosion.
@@svfairisle
You're too quick for me, there I was thinking about the contact area inside a screw or bolt thread and how that would change the behaviour. I just got around to more space inside than contact.... and was about to get the data sheets for different greases - Then you pop up with an well written reply.
You are absolutely right, and it makes perfect logical sense now that you have laid it out for me - thank you! for that.
In my defence I got distracted watching this chap explain anchoring 101 which is rather interesting.
All the best Steve, Kind Regards TT.
Thank you for your very informative videos. They provide some really good back ground information. A comment on carrying antifoul and other items in your airline luggage. Many of these things are considered hazardous on an aircraft, and in particular in the hold where they’re not accessible in flight, with only fire suppression systems to contend with a problem. Carrying hazardous material, even though it may save money, can place the whole aircraft, crew and passengers at risk. The safest approach is let the Hazardous Materials people decide by declaring…..then you can be certain the item(s) are safe.
Great video! Get yourself a cheap little digital scale and a notebook for mixing resin/hardener/paints and such. That way you can get keep track of exactly what proportions work.
You are excellent at explaining everything to someone who has never been on a sailing boat Thanks Garry/ IRELAND
I like the way you explain your maintenance routine.
succinct, yet with all the important aspects shown. Well done. Ps, I watched your walk through, I like it greatlly
Possibly the most informative video on this that I’ve seen. Your editing is brilliant, or in other words ruthless.
your techo's are my fav!! helps me learn how to take care of my own sailboat. Thank you doing these
Your doing your videos very nicely.. not to fast but showing exactly what your talking about and just enough verbal detail.
thanks:)
Love these technical videos. Super-informative, in a warm, level tone. Wishing you continuing success!
You do have a way with words! Your maintenance procedures are to the point and clear making them easy to understand, therefore more valuable to us! This also carries through to your cruising narrations as well! It is really nice to see your boat looking so nice.
Thanks Brian.
This seemed to me to be a very good video about hull maintenance, whilst the boat is on the hard. Plenty of detail described in no-nonsense terms.
I own an old '77 Nicholson 39.......sadly she's not used much in the last 5 years as life has taken priority........but........this video has taught me more than the bible of yachts.... the Nigel Calder boat owners manual.
Your presentation style is fantasitc, thank you so much for 20 minutes of re education.
Enjoy your cruising.....you have a magnificent yacht.
Well I can't claim to be Nigel Calder, but I certainly appreciate the sentiment! Thanks Graham
OK then we met each other. I was the owner of jachtservice de waterman . I lookt several times to this boat it was a beauty and she has a very good owner now who takes good care of her. Both woman deserve a good care. I was hoping since I am retired
to sail also a little,lard, with my wife with a seaworthy motorboat. Time will tell wen we can start.
TOP TIP: Always check the resistance between the Anode and whatever you are protecting, prop, etc, with a volt meter set to the ohms, resistance, setting. You need a really low reading, very low resistance. Otherwise the anode IS NOT WORKING. Great video's subscribes already. Hope you don't mind me chipping in.
The specification of aluminium anodes is AL-CHEM1 and they include zinc, iron, silicon a trace of indium plus some other common metals at trace levels. They have an anode capacity of about 2800 Amp.hrs/kg. This is much better than zincs which are about 780 Amp.hrs/kg. They are also closer to stainless and bronze don't dissolve as fast when working. I'm not sure, but I think fouling on them could be worse than on zinc anodes and the biofilm could reduce effectiveness but I've not come across data on that...
Your yacht is benefiting from a lot of care and love -she's a beauty!
Great videos all round, looking forward to more of these techy ones!
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Love your boat and your videos. The style of your boat is beautiful !
Loving the finer details of maintenance, I'm taking notes now!
Yet another great video. Well done. We have always stumbled through some of these tasks. However, you have shown us several good resolutions. Thanks for these wonderful more detailed videos.
Another very good video. Very much appreciated.
She’s a beauty!! Well done friend!
Love your channel, thanks for all your info!
Your'll good! I'm seen a lot of videos, up on the hard. But you told me a lot of new things and ideas! Thank you
Well done Steve! Having a Max Prop myself, this reminds me that the maintenance of such a pricy prop is so important! You defiantly covered most all the bases on your haul out. Sadly my haul out and maintenance has fallen to the way side, as one other viewer wrote. For me a life time of sailing, and three young grandkids has switched my priorities to more simpler hobbies. Though Im still hanging in there, and have had the grandkids on once, though we never left the dock they loved it! You are quite lucky to have Judy by your side, someone who supports you and shares in your dream is the difference between a boat that sits at the dock, and one that takes you places and create a life time of memories. This is why myself and so many others live vicarelesly through your journeys. You and Judy do such a fantastic job in the production of your videos! I guess having the background that you both have helps, but passion for what you do makes up for experience in my opinion. So on this cold gloomy day in Long Island, as I sit here sipping my morning coffee, Im thinking of a trip to the Jennifer Marie, if nothing else, maybe a motoring out into the Great South Bay, and maybe some some winterizing! Thanks once again to you both for all your efforts, you defiantly inspire me, and if nothing else, remind me of all the memories of a life time of sailing...
Yes I certainly count myself lucky to have Judy. She's actually away visiting the kids this week but that gives me a chance to revarnish the saloon sole, difficult living on the boat with no floor! Boat maintenance is basically a full time job I'm not sure I'ld keep up with the maintenance if I didn't live on board. All the best, Steve
That is one beautiful yacht, new but traditional. Thank you.
Excellent stuff, I have some canal rash on my gel coat and thanks to you I can now have a go at fixing. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos.
Good knowledge, some nice tips, well presented!
Very instructive video. Thank you.
some great tips. thank you
Very useful, thanks. Well presented and just enough self afacement to add credibility. I’m a fan
Beautiful mate bloody marvelous
As always I really enjoyed your video and the how to of it. Learned a lot from your videos.
That repair was really very good.
Very well done!
Wonderful presentation!
Great DIY info, I'm doing my boat's bottom this winter and will do for the most part what you have done. My raw water through hull had dezincifiction(previous owner or boat manufacturer had installed it), I replaced it in time in the water, another story! Dan in southern California
Great job
Beautiful sailboat
Looks as nice out of the water as when it is in it. Very informative video. Never realised that you need to sikoflex anodes to the hull.
Well Hull anodes usually come with a rubber backing so you might be able to get away without, but at the end of the day those bolts going through holes through your hull so I’m sealing them off every way I can!
well done videos... best g
Great sailboat ⛵️ video ! 😀⛵️😀 Mike from Missouri
Thanks Mike.
Nicely done, and some good tips. Thanks
Thanks, couldn't get the standard of finish you got on your 'bananarama' boat though!
Haha. My little fishing tub - cheers. A labour of love. I had a 10m yacht a few years back. I always enjoyed the annual lift out - make her all shiny new again. The wee boats fun doing days out fishing in summer. But I miss sailing I have to say...
Very nice
Before you dig out or dremel out the gel coat scratch or ding wax the area, then grind out the area, then fill with gel coat and cover with your mylar sheet. Once the gel coat has set the gel coat will not stick to waxed area and make feathering the repair much easier!
That's a great tip. Thanks Bill I'll have a go!
thank you - a good explanation - a couple of adds to you process - here in Aus we use a product called prop speed - nothing short of brilliant for retaining clean props and no barnacles - and another pointer from my tech man - he says weigh your anodes prior to installing - and then at service interval weigh again - apparently visual inspection is highly misleading as to % remains. do that for a while till you can make a sound judgement on depletion of anodes. Love the yacht
The weighing idea is genius! I’ll definitely do that. I tend to change them no matter what to be honest, but it’s really useful to keep note of how they deplete as if things start to change one year it could be the sign of something going wrong. Thanks for the tips. Steve
Do you have to scrape prop speed fully off at each haul out for it to be most beneficial? Then re apply etc?
That's a fancy prop 🤓... And your so knowledgeable too x
If you’re into props Andy there’s more in Ep4 and I’m going to put a section that didn’t make the edit in tech corner on the website. Steve
Cheers your very soothing to listen to
nice boat! nice job! nice narrative, at first glance I said.... look these guys speak like BBC reporters.... and then found out that you are ... hahahaha
About those zink details you was covering with nail polish..I have better idea,get UV resin used in crafts 200ml under 20£ on Ali express and some nail gel lamp,other 20£,...it’s just like epoxy resin,but thinner and it cures and sets with UV light..I would buff bit a detail and cover side,put in lamp 120 seconds of drying,then do other side,repeat if needed...I think it would work grate,we use resins all over the place in crafts and in nail arts and for me in y experience if it can last month on woman’s hands(cos we clean,scruff,wash,scratch)it’s good to last...I would give it a try,if nailpolish gives you hope,then UV resin will be you’re love....to me it’s better than simple epoxy,cos it only sets when exposed to UV,easy to apply and won’t drip,cos it will dry before getting chance...compared to simple epoxy it’s more expensive but worth the game on small scale when you want to control application,drying time,don’t want give dust,dirt chance to stick and dry...I really repair bunch of stuff with it and think it deffinetly will work 1000 times better than nail polish
She is a beautiful out of the water as she is in it. New subscriber. 👍
Takes a true connoisseur to appreciate a long keeled boat :)
God god, well done Steve.
Thanks Espen, Steve.
'Prop Speed' is a goodie.
Hi, great video, you mentioned aluminium anodes could you use the new zincs that don’t come in aluminium as a plug to get aluminium ones moulded in sand? Shouldn’t be that difficult to do and easy to collect scrap aluminium for the task.
It's a good idea Jason, but they're not pure aluminium for anodes there's other elements mixed in so you'ld have to be careful. You could certainly make them from part used aluminium anodes.
Parabéns meuo grande engenheiro você e o grande cara competente gosti
love your videos. What kind of sailboat do you have. I have been looking for one for a long time.
th-cam.com/video/x8SDb0syCWU/w-d-xo.html
I love the way you take care of your boat. By the way have you bought the boat in Katwoude. Be lucky you are on the boat , my boat is at a Marina in Lock Down. Always 1 Ft water under the keel and happy sailing.
Yes we bought Fair Isle from DeWalks in Katwould. They were great and let us live on board for 6 months while we got her ready. It was lovely having that time in the Netherlands.
Where did you purchase that hooked tool tip for the vibrating multi tool that you used to remove the old deck caulk?
Thanks, JIM
I got it from Amazon... www.amazon.co.uk/FEIN-63903238210-Caulking-Blade-Multi-Colour/dp/B019A33G9O/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fein+caulking&qid=1578788331&sr=8-2
Great videos very useful. Where would you recommend laying up over winter to treat osmosis etc in south Portugal? Best wishes john
Oh that's an easy one! Bruces yard, where we are now. Widely regarded as the best place to be in this area and we haven't been disappointed. It's a DIY yard though so if you're needing professional help they're not really set up for that. It seems to be 95% brits here, not sure how that happened, maybe it's because its a 10 minute Uber ride to the airport so easy to go back and forth as we have done.
Sailing Fair Isle thank you so much. We have just bought our first boat a 50ft Belliure Ketch based in Barcelona at the moment. Lots to do and learn. Thank you John and Sue
Sounds great, good luck!
Maybe im overthinking this, but what material are the screws of the prop-zinc? and what type of Loctite# do you use for that?
The screws are 316 stainless, I use red loctite on them
Amigo deus vai lê dar muitas competência para você concertar está linda embarcações
Obrigado por seus comentários agradáveis, Steve
I ilke it when you say in this video that you would suggest having a rope cutter - now might be the time to post an addendum at that point with a link to your rope around the prop video!
Ha! Yes I need to amend it to say an effective rope cutter. Really disappointed with the Spurs just falling apart at the first whiff on a rope! They were on the boat when we got her and I must admit I didn’t really question whether they would be good enough.
I already have the replacement and will do a video when I fit them. They’re called Gators and just looking at them you can tell they’re MUCH more strongly built.
What about keeping after the varnish! How often do you do that or is it a continuous ongoing project?
JIM
Oh yes it's continuous! The trick to varnish is to get on it before it's degraded enough to get through to the wood. When that happens you're in for a complete strip down to bare wood and revarnish which is a real chore. So far by using a good varnish (epifanes) and 6-8 coats I can get away with a rub down with fine (320) grade sandpaper and add a couple of coats once a year. I also use a breathable varnish on all the high wear areas, toerail - handrails etc. which is MUCH easier to use. I will have a video out on it in the spring as I'm doing the varnish now, watch out for that.
I have a simular boat but a bit bigger. My keel is the same, water line is 48, and draft is 7. How do I calculate how much bottom paint to use?
Good question, most of the manufactures have a formula if you look at their website, but it doesn't usually cater for a full keel. The best one I think is this one... www.hempelyacht.com/paint-calculator because it's very simple, you don't have to get your calculator out! Still it will underestimate a bit I think. Putting Fair Isles details in tells me I will need 5 - 2.5 liter cans, I can tell you I need 6 to do it properly. This time because i was doing it before it really needed it, so lots of the old stuff left, I just used 4 cans, that was enough for one good coat all over and three coats on all the heavy wear areas. Hope that helps, Steve
do you know what anodes they use on aluminium hulls?
Yes you can use aluminium or zinc, you just cant use magnesium (which some people like if they're moving between salt & fresh water) I know it sounds odd using aluminium on an aluminium hull! but the material used for the anode is very different from the hull, it contains indium which makes it very reactive. Steve
Would a wooden sailboat be pasted with anitifoul and attached with sacrificial anodes?
Yes, exactly the same process. The anodes are there to protect the metal parts of the ship, prop-shaft, prop, sea cocks etc. so it matter not wether the hull is Fibreglass or wood. As far as anti foul is concerned same thing applies, you don't want growth as it creates drag and slows you down, so you need to repel anything that wants to attach itself which is a surprisingly large amount of stuff!) There are different types of anti foul for different substrates but the principal is the same. The only material that requires a slightly different approach is actually steel or aluminium hulls which you have to be very careful with, but it sounds like its wood you're into so I won't bore you with that. Steve
@@svfairisle I could have a steel hull on my boat. So the antifoul will be a different product than for fibreglass hull etc?
Hey captain. Has anyone ever told you that you look like the legendary Jürgen Klinsmann?
I can't say they have... people have said I sound like Trevor Brooking, sadly I can't play football as well as either!
How do you connect the zink and all the tru huls seacocks ???
If you look at the close up shot of where i'm taking the nuts off the inside of where the hull zinc attaches you'll see this is actually a bus bar with many wires attached (I point the camera at them a briefly I think where I say 'I will be cleaning all those up later' ) Those wires go to every through hull on the boat so that they are electrically directly connected to the zinc. The only external piece of metal below the waterline not on this system is the propshaft & prop and they have there own zincs.
@@svfairisle tanks, which dimensio cabel do you use
Fair Isle has 6awg gauge but 8awg is considered sufficient. These are fairly thick wires considering they we be only ever be carrying small currents but it's all about low resistance. Some people try to provide some lightning protection from the system, not sure this works but i'm looking into it. Bonding wire is usually green tinned marine wire although many manufacturers don't use tinned wire. It's okay to daisy chain through hulls that are next to each other but separate areas should have a dedicated radial wire via the shortest route and out of wetted areas of the bilge if possible. I'll be doing a piece on wiring for tech corner sometime, there's lots of pitfalls!
A bit off topic but I noticed you store some sharp knives on a magnet above your galley. Could be dangerous in heavy weather. I remember pulling a steak knife out of an electrical panel once, it had travelled all the way across the boat during a knock down ....
Don't worry they're not going anywhere, bloody strong magnet. In fact I was worried it would upset the compass 20 feet away!
@@svfairisle haha I'm imagining an ACME magnet pulling everything towards it lolz.
I noticed that when you changed the anode on your bonding system you removed the nuts, and then used a hammer to drive the bolts out. You should never do this with bolts you will (or may) use again. You should loosen the nuts and back them off, till they are flush with (or slightly proud of) the end of the bolt. Then you can use your hammer on the nuts to drive the bolts as far as possible with the nuts still on. Then remove the nuts and use a block ( or drift) to drive the bolt the rest of the way out. This way you protect the threads on the bolt from damage from being struck by the hammer.
Yes very good point. I've learned the hard way that exact thing extracting difficult bolts usually on the ancient tractor i used to have, that you end up damaging the tread and having top get the tap & die set out. Fortunately they've had the good sense to fit domed headed bolts on the Han Christian so this isn't an issue. Should have made that clear in the video. Steve
Could AL sacrificial anodes made via CNC for all of your requirements? Seems logical, but I don't know. You could start a whole new wave of of products which would be better for the environment, last longer, at the same price! win, win, win!
Yes making some moulds from CAD files should be easy these days, where's the nearest aluminium smelter!?
@@svfairisle I suggest just buying AL in blocks. They should be available through a local metal supplier. Say a 5"x5" block of AL. Then bring it and the cad file to a CNC machine shop and have them cut down several for you to size. Make sure they drill the holes. Try them out on the boat, and then test the waters and see if there is a market among the Hans Christian boat owners. You probably belong to a Hans Christian forum, and before you know it, you're in business! Set up a virtual sales sight and have your CNC shop send the anodes directly to your customers, and you collect the money. Then get together with other digital TH-cam yacht content channels do the same for their boats, and maybe some popular drive mfrs, advertise on their channels and away you go! If your idea is sound, you'll be banking some serious cash! Good luck. I guess the key is finding a good metal supplier. Locally, in the States, I know of one. This might be representative of a company you want to start with. Check it out, and this will give you an idea of what to look for. www.yarde.com/aboutus/ Good luck.
The aluminum anodes last too long, that's the reason they don't make them in aluminum.
You cynic you! Not sure the marine industry’s organised enough to work that out!
@@svfairisle not sure if serious or sarcasm >.> (but suffice to say, anything you buy that has the word "marine" in it is going to be filthily expensive)
Unclebenny Gaming oh yes! If it has the word marine you can treble the price, I know the industry gets that! You would just think for the money they’re charging they could work together with their products, so people who make props could make sure there was a proper range or anodes that fit it, not just leave it to secondary suppliers, things like that really annoy me! Steve
@@svfairisle yeah, it's gotten silly, but at the same time if that status quo changes there will be many upset manufacturers and suppliers so the chances of that ever really changing are somewhere between slim and none I think :(
@@gfimadcat Surely not. I bought some Autosol polish for home $12 a tube. Then I bought some "🌟🌟MARINE🌟🌟" Autosol polish in a pretty pink for only $12 a tube. Imagine my disappointment when I found that the "🌟🌟MARINE🌟🌟" tube had exactly 50% of the amount of the landlubber polish. Their boxes were so similar in size.
🌈❤️💪😎
I have found many companies selling Aluminium anodes.... there's something that I haven't understand here.
I found there’s just not the range of sizes. For instance on Fair Isle I cant get one for the bow thruster, the rope cutter or the Maxprop. They seem to do the 6 hole in Aluminum but not the 3 hole. And as you can’t mix them I need the full set.
Naughty boy flying with antifouling. I got away with it too (Jotun Seaforce) flying into Porto.
You really shouldn’t feel proud about that. I despair, you know that it is wrong and stupid but still did it. Should it leak and cause an incident you are looking at an unlimited fine and/or 2 years in prison. Don’t be cheap.
La....je regrette vraiment de ne pas exercer la langue de Shakespeare.
Je n'ai pas tout compris, sur la graisse anti-conductivité...!!
Entre les images et le google traduction (qui ressemble..." a du chinois")...ca a été quand meme une video instructive.
Eh bien, la langue de Shakespere était plus proche du latin. Vous comprendriez probablement plus de cela que moi! L’utilisation de la graisse a pour but d’empêcher la corrosion, problème majeur des connexions électriques en mer. Ce qui est important à comprendre, c’est que lorsque vous reliez mécaniquement deux pièces de métal, qu’elles soient vissées d’une simple connexion électrique du type à ajustement forcé sous le microscope, le métal ressemble à la surface de la lune. Seuls les petits points hauts se connectent et ceux-ci conduisent l'électricité. Le reste, les "cratères" ne font rien car il y a un intervalle d'air c'est-à-dire un très bon isolant. Si cette connexion est mouillée, en particulier avec de l'eau de mer, la connexion se corrodera et se propagera éventuellement pour affecter la bonne connexion dans les points hauts. L'application de graisse diélectrique comble ces lacunes et ne permet pas à l'eau de causer le problème. Le fait que la graisse soit un isolant n'a pas d'importance, car il ne remplit que les vides d'air (également un très bon isolant), mais la graisse diélectrique est la meilleure protection. J'espère que ça a du sens! Cordialement, Steve.
@@svfairisle Oupss. Oui.
Je comprends mon erreur. C'est..d'avoir fait confiance a la traduction qui est ANTIdielectrique. A chaque fois que le mot etait prononcé.
Je ne connaissais pas l’existence d'une telle graisse...specifique.
/J'avais compris le fait que la graisse bouche le creux des aspéritées du metal (cratères). Mais, pourquoi isoler la conduction électrique..??/
A ma décharge: Lire une traduction approximative/erronée en stoppant la video toutes les secondes..est saoulant..!!
Par contre, j'ai ...Tout Compris sur le Cuivre/Manganèse...Aluminium.
Merci, pour cette longue..explication.
Jean-Michel
PLEASE READ. A great and informative video but may I add a big BUT to save a few quid carrying that anti foul paint in your luggage on a commercial flight is an absolute no. I checked the data sheet for the paint and it is a skin and eye irritant as well as being inflammable. It has a fairly high VOC and a low flashpoint. Any paint like that counts as dangerous goods and must be declared and packaged properly. You even said that you were advised that it tends to leak on a flight. Unlike you, I can imagine the potential consequences of that leaking onboard, what else might be hidden in the suitcase that ended up next to it in the hold? I couldn’t believe that you did that. Aside from totally ignoring dangerous goods regulations and breaking the law you are putting the aircraft, passengers and crew at risk. Please anyone reading this think about what you are putting in your suitcase. Sorry if this comes across as a rant but do NOT do that. Airline Captain.
The volume on the music is to high . The volume on your voice's is not as high . People hearing. adds have to keep adjusting their volume. The louse music hurts
Okay, slightly confused though as there wasn't any music on this video!
Are you sure you were a journalist?
Why do you ask?
@@svfairisle So knowledgable about boats.
Kaz Kazo it’s a journalists trick to sound knowledgeable about everything!
Using a screwdriver to stir paint? Shame on you! Any fule no that you’re supposed to use a chisel to stir paint. It also means you can open the paint tin too :)