I really like this review type of video. Another thing I extremely like about your channel is that a lot of your videos are made for amateurs or beginners in astrophotography and that really helps! thank you so much nico
Fun fact: this Video made me buying the FRA 300 this July. After that I wanted to get the Star Adventurer 2i. I already was at the checkout for ordering it, when I heard of the GTi.. I started watching videos about it and came back to this Video of yours! 😂🥰 first at that point I realized: you had this mount! I got so excited and I couldn’t resist: I bought the GTi… ✨💙 thank you for your great videos, Nico! Can’t wait to start shooting…
A most excellent review, Nico. I'm glad that you're reviewing reasonably priced equipment that more of your followers and afford. I look forward to many more.
Awesome review. I totally agree with the previous comments that we need more of these sorts of videos. Really really useful and I shall be buying this scope as a result. Great work thanks!
Thanks a lot Nico! No matter what question I have in my mind I always find a video here. And just in case I want any other details or info, you always reply🙏🏻🙏🏻😄😄
Thank you for this review. I share the Boston-area skyscape with you and am always impressed with the images you are able to capture as well as the detail you provide about process and gear selection.
Glad you said the weight of the rig up on the sa GTi. I am a bit obsessed with it lol. Going back to the scopes, I like that you said you were having to be a bit picky. They both performed very well. It felt that you were struggling to find things to really comment on for difference. I think if you mixed all 18 of the analysis boxes you wouldn't be able to tell them apart. Ultimately though it comes down to the final product and the askar looked astounding. The nebulosity looked like someone put droplets of dye in water.
I took my first picture with my FRA 300. It did not disappoint. North America and Pelican Nebulas. The reds were to strong because of the L Enhance filter. But the starts were tight and round all the way to the corners. Also there was virtual no light drop off at the corners and that was even with out the flats I messed up. Love the scope so far!!!
This is great. With my Redcat I get fairly significant "coma" at the edges with an APS-C I don't know if that's just my particular Redcat as I don't really see it that bad on yours, especially since you're full frame. I'm planning to buy the FRA300 for this exact reason, that I don't get any coma at the edges with my 2600MC Pro. I usually check my frames in ASTAP and have mild to none in camera tilt so I can assume that's accurate and not a tilt issue.
Hey Nico. I was just curious about the clip where you show the Redcat side by side with the other scope. You mention the dark corners of the RC52, and I was wondering if you would still get the dark corners if you use a camera with a crop sensor, like the T3i, or would it still exist regardless of crop or full frame sensors?
I would be very interested in knowing what has been your problems or experience. I am really considering a Red Cat 51. I love the colors I see in the OSC star clusters in Astrobin. I think it is hard to beat but, would love to know real user experience and possibly issues that I may have skipped before deciding in the purchase. Thanks in advance!!
Awesome review, but immediately I could notice this Askar is mounted on the new Skywatcher GTI mount. Did you test it yet? Very interested as the payload capacity itself was not improved compared to the Adventurer 2i Pro that I have tried but only usable for very light setups.
Good review. But if it's being touted as a quintuplet, then there should be no CA as far as I'm concerned regardless of the budget price point. It looks like it has the potential to be another tiny beast as I call the smaller scopes with punch, like the Sharpstar 76mm APO.
Very nice review, Nico! A quintuplet is on my list to buy (in the next 5 years because everything is too expensive) and the FRA300 is the most affordable I've seen so far.
Hey Nico. Thanks for this video. It made me buy one of the first units available in Germany since I was looking for a scope in the 300mm range for my Star Adventurer 2i and Petzval is a great addition (I already have too many adapters...). Although I recently was wondering, if I could fit my QHY268c to this instead of my EOS450D while shooting from the backyard. So I added up all the weights from your video + tech specs and just came at around 5.15kgs... Close. So weight reduction time. Removed the handle and put it on a scale with all unneeded screws. 167g, whew. But out of curiosity, I put the whole unit on the scale... And to my surprise it only had a weight of 2925g without the handle but with the USB heating band attached?! I also put my 450D on the scale for comparison and it was only 6g off compared to the factory data. So now I wonder what is missing in my FRA300 compared to yours 😄 I hope I can sleep tonight...
Nico. Thanks for the review. Is Askar 300 too much scope for the Ioptron Sky guider pro? With a canon rp? I also appreciate how you can review a product without losing your integrity in the process. Thank you.
I'd estimate you'd be at around 8 pounds with just the scope and the RP, and a bit over 9 pounds if you add a small guide scope. So you should be fine on weight. Of course everything is harder with a tracker when you push it to it's limit, but I've done a fair amount of imaging with the AT60ED at 360mm f.l. on the iOptron SmartEQ. With good polar alignment, I could do 30 sec. unguided subs and 2-3 minutes with guiding. I suspect you could get similar results with the iOptron Skyguider Pro.
Nice review and comparison. I was just wondering, in the aberration inspector the stars in the bottom left on the Askar looked quite elongated to me but I didn't see that corner on the Askar talked about. I have issues with elongation of stars in the corners of my Redcat (it went back to WO for "repair" but still has some issues). I was thinking about replacing it with something like the Askar but those stars in the bottom left of the Askar looked similar to what I am getting in my Redcat.
I recently bought the scope and will start with my Nikon Z6ii. I am intrigued as to the ideal 1) mount and 2) camera for this scope. The options you present make sense. Why spend $2k on a mount if there is one for $700 that does the job)? The 533 camera with filter wheels and filters is just over $2k! So when considering such large sums I wonder if they are really worth it and if they are the right choice. A salesperson told me that if I bought the 533 camera, I would be unable to use it with some ZWO equipment. Still a learning curve ahead.
Thanks for the test. The FRA300 is also comparable to the SharpStar 61 with its f/4.5 reducer for 275mm focal length, which is also the same as the infamous OPT Radian 61. The SharpStar / Radian 61 can both be used visually, but it looks like the FRA300 cannot? It is just for imaging? Looks like your results closely match the spot diagrams provided for the FRA300 which do show a bit of lateral chromatic aberration. And unlike the larger FRA astrographs there’s no additional reducer available for the 300 for an even faster configuration as an option. But f/5 is pretty nice! Looks like a good combo with the GTi mount. Cheers!
Re: visual use. No luck with a mirror diagonal, not enough inward focus. Holding an eye piece up, I can see where it would focus, and you'd need a very thin adapter, and even then I don't think it would work with all eyepieces. So I'd say technically possible, but not ideal for visual.
Thanks mate a great review video. It would be great if you can do a review and comparison of this detail on all the major branded scopes out there and build a catalog for us newbies to come to and watch before making expensive purchases so that we can make informed decisions based on a proper review like yours. I purchased the FRA400 recently and just did my first light with it and I am very happy with it. It's a great scope.
hello I finally got myself an am5 mount on AVX tripod and the zwo extension. bought used for a good price and I would like to get the askar fra300! I have an asi air plus, an EAF an asi 120 for guiding with the 50 mm scope from svbony. The main camera is the asi 294 MC pro. My question is is the camera made for this lens!? And what would be the good filters that I should get to complete my kit? Thanks Benoit
Which camera is best with the Recat 51? I’ve a main camera of Canon EOS R6. What is needed between the camera and lens? Sorry for all the questions. Love this type of photography.
Hi. Great comparison review. Can you explain why putting a guide scope on top and an ASIAir on the finder shoe might be preferred to the other way around?
this is a fair video when looking into wider fov's.. i image mono, it would be nice to see what the asi2600mm would be as I have no idea what your dslr sensor size is, or if your cam is modified. there are so many variations to this hobby. I have the reducer waiting for my FRA400 which puts me at 280mm with the 2600mm and am very excited to see the images I'll be able to get with it. doesn't look like I'll be getting that until September, if I'm lucky....
Very nice review. I realized that you had the Askar sitting on the new StarAdventurer GTI mount. Did you take the images with this mount? The Jellyfish blew my socks off ...
@@NebulaPhotos I'd be very happy to hear about the results. I'm currently looking for a light apo to pair with my Star Adventurer and had considered getting a RedCat. This Askar seems like a good alternative, since I wanted a bit more focal length :)
@@NebulaPhotos Thank you, looking forward to your report. The Askar + guide scope + camera + filter wheel may get you pretty close to the maximum load of the GTI. May be an interesting test how the GTI performs at its limits.
If you look at the lens design of fra300 the rear lens group lenses are drawn with distance where the last lens sits in the rotator. Is this design ok? By looking at the lens design of fra400 the rear lens group lenses are close together and sit more in the middle of the telescope. Which design is better for dedicated astro cams regarding any deviations in the imaging train?
How did the GTI handle those exact 5kg?! Unfortunately cables, Dewheater and ASIair will add another 500g… would be VERY interesting to see how SA GTI can handle overweight
Nice setup and great output for both instruments Nico. Question for you: I see you are using the Mac to process the images. Do you use it to control the camera and mount too?
I don't, but I have friends that do. There are a few options. One: use a virtual machine with Windows installed. Two: Use Mac-compatible software like Nebulosity/PHD2. Three: Use a distributed approach with a Raspberry Pi and INDI/KStars/EKOS (all free)
Hi Nico. Thank you for another awesome video... I didn't experiment yet, but hope to this month, with my Ioptron skyguider Pro and RedCat 51, and I was wondering what one should do with the mount after Polaris alignement. It would be logical that once Polaris is aligned the mount should be running at all times after that to now follow the stars, but when you mount your camera after having aligned, and while the Skyguider is now running, doesn't it impact the alignment you just did when mounting the camera on the Skyguider? And if one needs later to refocus the camera lens, does touching the camera and lens when it's on the running Skyguider slow down the mount motor while doing so, thus maybe losing the set alignment? I always wondered about that... Thanks for any insight if you have the time...
Hi Alan, Polar alignment is solely about pointing the mount physically in the right direction and with the right latitude adjustment on the wedge or ball head. The mount does not have to be on to polar align, and polar alignment will stay good for months as long as as the mount is not not disturbed. So to answer your question, you can definitely turn the skyguider off after polar aligning and then turn it back when ready to track. The key thing is not to disturb where the mount is pointed while attaching the camera. I think there is an optional declination bracket that should allow you to polar align with the camera/telescope attached. That would probably be ideal if I'm remembering correctly. Been awhile since I've seen a skyguider pro.
@@NebulaPhotos Hi Nico. thank you greatly for your answer. It is very clear with your explanations, again some spatial dumbness and not thinking that indeed, I can stop the tracker to fiddle with the camera as it's not the whole head that moves (logical) but just the mounted camera, and the head stays always aligned on Polaris as long as we don't move the tripod it's on, or its position. You are right though for the Sky Guider Pro, if mounted with declination bracket and not direct ballhead, it gives the advantage of leaving an aperture for re-polar aligning, even with camera mounted, which I believe will prove convenient because it might be a more frequent occurrence that one might think of to hit the tripod or do something that would throw the alignement off... Thank you again for your time answering my question, it's very much appreciated. As an evolution of that small setup of mine, I see many quickly jump into astro guiding for more accuracy, and on this subject, I was wondering if you have ever heard of a well praised system but not common in US, which is the Lacerta MGEN-3, or would it be too complicated for a beginner, or can only work with telescope? Yet it seems very powerful and convenient for light travel, although very expensive. I have to go and see on your video if you created content about astro-guiding and any beginner's advice you may have given for the ones with just their little tracker, DSLR and lens. This MGEN-3 looks like a very cool machine though, but I'm not advanced enough to be able to tell, and maybe there is a better, or simpler, US market equivalent... Best...
@@alanalain4884 Hi Alan, I've never tried the Lacerta MGEN, but thank you for the reminder, as I've been meaning to get one to try. The nice thing about the MGEN system for DSLR users, is it is self-contained, you can autoguide and dither without a separate computer attached to a guide camera. Another option (cheaper) that is popular today is to buy a ZWO guide camera, and ZWO's proprietary 'ASIAir' device. The ASIAir is a Raspberry Pi mini computer with ZWO's software. It is controlled from your smartphone or table and can take care of communication between the mount and the guide camera. Generally, I have chosen not to auto-guide when using lightweight setups like a star tracker and a DSLR. The biggest advantage is to be able to dither between exposures to break up the 'walking noise' patterns, but the downside is it really complicates the rig. Maybe the Lacerta MGEN you mentioned is the best way to keep the rig fairly simple, but add guiding/dithering.
Hi Nico, if you were going to get a new widefield refractor for astrophotography and are looking at pairing something with either the new Skywatcher SA GTi or the iOptron Skyhunter (and using a max of APS-C size sensors), what would you pick out of the two scopes mentioned here? Ideally be able to fit everything into a backpack still, which has me leaning towards a Redcat 51 paired with the Skyhunter.
At 14:40 you say "full frame camera". Earlier you showed a QHY533M when you weighed the camera/scope combination. Did you change to an full frame DSLR or something in between? The 533M has a 16 mm diagonal sensor vs. a full frame camera with a 43 mm diagonal sensor. I assume that would make a huge difference at the edges with vignetting and possibly flatness. Still, I like the look and the price/performance seems quite good. I already have a Redcat so this one isn't for me but I'll probably tell a few friends who "need" a wider field scope.
Sorry, I had the 533 installed for the demo, but the comparison shots were taken with the Canon EOS Ra as mentioned at 09:10. Then at the end, for the Jellyfish shot, I switch back to the 533. Totally see how that could have been confusing.
@@NebulaPhotos Wow, I missed the mention of the Ra. I saw the two frames you were showing were rectangular so should have re-watched and listened more closely for the change in camera. Thanks!
These four and five element designs seemed expensive to me, UNTIL I looked at how much field flatteners cost, so that's a $150 minimum, and probably more like $250 expense.
Hello - very nice video . Thank you . I am considering the FRA400 . I have a 2” screw in optolong l enhance filter . It’s not clear to me how I can use that with this scope . How do I mount it ? Thank you
My first and only refractor is the Astro-Tech AT65EDQ quad that I use use today. It still takes great images but being a bit longer FL and a little slower at f6.5 than the Askar. I do use a 0.85 focal reducer to make it a little wider. Would it be much of an upgrade to replace it with this Askar? Thanks
I've never been able to secure an AT65EDQ since they rarely come up on the used market. I'd say probably stick with what you have as this would be pretty similar.
Thanks so much for this! I've been dissatisfied with my Canon 300mm f/4 L prime for astrophotography and am looking to replace it. Question: didn't see anything about adapters, so how would it mount to either my Canon 90D or Canon Ra? Thanks!
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks Nico! I know what I want for my birthday now. Check out what I've done with just standard DSLR cameras and lenses. I'm guessing this will scale up my quality even higher. th-cam.com/video/SiyRznMDdjo/w-d-xo.html
Ok newbie question here but does a 300mm telescope equate to 6x magnification like a 300mm lens does? what differences would I notice between this telescope and my Canon 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM?
There won't be any difference in terms of magnification or field of view if you use the same camera. The differences would just be in the quality of the star field. Generally a camera lens doesn't do as good a job with stars as a telescope, but some Canon L lenses like the one you mention are quite good, esp. if you stop down to f/4 or f/5.
Once you consider the accessories included with the Askar, they cost about the same. So tough decision. Personally, I'd go with the Redcat if the little extra weight/size was a concern, and the Askar if not.
This looks like the perfect setup for me. Do you have a build list for everything? I'm guessing the sw gti is too close to the maximum weight. what would be a step up from the gti? (the Sky-Watcher EQM-35?).
For me, the Askar because I prefer it’s focuser and more traditional format. Optically they are both good and the Redcat might actually be slightly sharper. I’d only choose the Redcat if weight were an issue- for example putting it on a star tracker.
Hey. It is only for a few minutes. Whatsamatteryou!? We are dealing with a time & distance capture of photons, travelling through hundreds, thousands, millions of light years...and you're objecting to a few minutes of "noise pollution"!? Be a good Earthling, will ya!? 🐇🤔😱😷🌈🙃
Nico. Great video. I have Canon and Canon astro modified bodies and lenses. I also have a huge Meade SCT telescope which is painful. This little gem looks appealing but I am still trying to understand APO refractor telescopes or astrographs. To me they seem similar to a camera and a lens. What is better about say the FRA300 versus using a regular Canon telephoto lens and a 6D where I can get f/2.8? Is it the APO optics that minimize CA? Is the magnification similar? I'm guessing one would not use this for planetary photography. Just trying to understand the strengths of the APO. I'll Google it.
A Canon DSLR lens will perform better than these so-called astro lenses. Image resolution is strictly a function of f/number, so it's not even a contest between f/2.8 beating f/5. You can lock focus on a DSLR simply with a piece of removable tape. Not sure why these astro lenses even have a market. They do adapt to various bodies (Canon, Nikon, etc), so perhaps that's a minor advantage. The prices aren't favorable.
The main reason people prefer these small telescopes over camera lenses is they render the star field better meaning few aberrations on the stars, and round stars out to the corners of a full frame sensor. I've used many camera lenses, and even the best ones have trouble not distorting the stars in the corners of a full frame sensor.
@@NebulaPhotos Canon "L" lenses are better corrected and less aberrant than any of these aftermarket products. "Astro" lenses are not superior in primary performance. You might like the secondary features like the dovetail mechanics, but the "astro" optics are overrated. This is my scientific opinion as an optical engineer working in lens design and performance evaluation, and a lifelong astrophotographer by hobby.
If you look at the Canon 300mm f/4L IS USM, it is $1028 vs $949. The auto focus and higher speed are worth the extra. If one can find a non-IS version, it is probably cheaper, not to mention a large market on eBay for used ones. A direct comparison of image quality will be appreciated.
I have 1st generation star adventurer (I Ordered GT1. fingers crossed). Now that you've been playing with GT1, are first impressions good? As far as scopes, are you concerned with the extra weight on the tracker? Pretty much still using Lenses.
I still think it's a good combo, but I've been busy with other reviews and other stuff so haven't had time to get it out much. Let me know if you have any questions about it though.
Greetings Nico; Upgrading to HEQ5 mount with SLR. Suggestion for first telescope. Wildcat 51 unattainable and others so pricey. I value your opinion. Thank you.
What is your budget? Look at the Svbony 503 line or the Astro-tech AT line for some nice budget doublets that can be fitted with matched field flatteners.
@@NebulaPhotos +1 for Astro-Tech. I'm using my AT60ED and it's amazing. I'm still waiting to get my hands on a flattener/reducer so I've had to crop in a lot for recent images, but the optics are great. It's no William-optics grade scope but it's really good for the price point.
I tried 2 times for the HEQ5 and tripod shorted on both. Upgrading to the HEQ6 and DID find the RedCat 51. Will return shortly with probably a gaggle of more questions. Thank you for your kind response.
Is there a difference in ease of focus between these two different focusing methods? I imagine the helical focuser would be more natural when using the Redcat for terrestrial photography, but is one more precise than the other when focusing on stars?
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks for the quick reply! How would you rate the Askar 200mm lens coarse and fine adjustments vs. the Askar 300mm rack and pinion for precise focus?
@@UnderDriven17 It's in-between a RedCat/Lens and a rack and pinion. I like it slightly better than the Redcat, but not as much as the Askar 300 (typical refractor focuser). Another reason I prefer the rack and pinion is down the road if you want to add a motor for automated focusing, it works much better. With the Redcat/Askar200/camera lens, you need to use a pully which is annoying as it makes manual rotation of the field practically impossible, while with a normal telescope focuser, they typically put the manual rotator behind the focuser on the drawtube.
I'm looking for my first scope to go on my GTI. Would also like to use it for the '24 eclipse, would it be suitable? Looking to capture a good field of view of streamers as what I'm aiming for.
Yes, good scope for the GTi. I think it would also be good for the eclipse. At 300mm f.l. you should be able to get the full extend of the outer corona with a long enough exposure. The downside to that focal length is the smaller details (baileys beads, prominences) won't have as much detail, but if your priority is the full corona, it's ideal.
@@NebulaPhotos cheers! It’s either going to be on the 300 or 400. Would you sacrifice some outer corona for inner detail and go a bit longer? Think my location means I’ve a meridian flip 20 mins before totality so going to have to start practicing that 😂
It's decent advice typically. Really depends on the person. With very good polar aligbment, balance, and guiding, I don't think it is strictly necessary. The mount will not be damaged by going up to the payload limit so there is no harm in trying if you already have the gear. If someone was putting together a setup and they are fairly inexperienced than sticking to a lighter payload is good advice.
Can I buy that RedCat? I have gone through 3 RedCats so far, and none came even close to the performance you show, and I use a 4/3 sensor, almost half the size of a full frame sensor. yes it was very sharp and no false color, but not a flat field at all.
Ah, sorry to hear that. Is the star elongation the same in each corner or different? Do you still have the last RedCat or have you returned/sold them all?
@@NebulaPhotos Thank you for replying! I tried collimating the front lens cell, which made it better, and then used the tilt plate, which made it all symmetric. But still not flat. Stars are equally elongated in all the corners as well as the side edges in the long direction on my 4/3 sensor. They are all gone, but I am thinking of buying one more, just to see if I get lucky. That same camera works fine on 6 other scopes, but I really want that 250mm focal length. So many targets fit in that framing!
It's a quad so there is no strict backfocus requirement like with an external corrector, but your camera will definitely come to focus with 55mm spacing. Didn't try anything else
I definitely will be doing videos leading up to the next couple solar eclipses in the US. Maybe not in the next few months, but will definitely do them well ahead of time.
@@NebulaPhotos Fantastic!! Just a follow up...so I'm sure you are aware of the lunar eclipse on the 15th. I plan to try imaging it, but I will only have my tripod, T3i, and a 75-300mm lens. Would that be sufficient to get some nice images? I am hopeful that the weather works out too. Also, do you know when the Star Adventurer GTi will come out? I'm kind of on the fence as to whether I should go ahead and get the 2i or wait for the GTi.
@@kevinashley478 Good timing. I was just working on a lunar eclipse video that should be out soon. Yes, you can definitely image it with that gear. The first batch of Star Adventurer GTis are coming in June, but from what I've heard those are all going to people who have pre-ordered already. Second batch might not be until the Fall.
@@NebulaPhotos Great! I look forward to the lunar eclipse video, as well as the solar eclipse one. I saw the 2017 one in totality with my dad and my kids, but my wife missed it. It is awe inspiring, and I promised my wife that I would take her to see the 2024 one. I think that I might just go ahead and get the 2i, if nothing else it will give me a good amount of practice with the setup. I know the sky a little bit, so it will help me learn more about locations. Thanks for your input.
Are electronic mounts better than manual? Seems once u are aligned, the mount is locked in place. Unless electronic ones make PA much easier, or help with a guiding scope?
It depends what you mean by manual? If you mean a mount that you turn by hand with no motors, then a motorized mount will definitely work much better for astrophotography with a telescope. Our hands are only accurate enough for wide angle camera lenses. If you mean a motorized mount that is not computerized: that can work quite well. The two downsides to a motorized, but not computerized mount: 1. can't take advantage of GO-TO functionality and platesolving for reliably finding and framing objects down to the pixel. 2. depending on mount design, might not be able to take advantage of auto-guiding where software controls the guide corrections. Manual guiding (looking through a guide scope) and making corrections yourself with a hand paddle would still be possible, but that is a lot of work.
@@NebulaPhotos I mean how good is a mount that is not computer-controlled, and not motorized. You can align well with NINA and making micro-adjustments with the mount knobs, right? After that the tracker takes over. So I was wondering how a computer-controlled, electronic mount would be better, and I guess with auto-guide that could be? Without auto-guide it seems a manual (unconnected, not electronic) mount works well?
@@deeber35 If a tracker is not motorized, it can't "take over", it requires constant input from the person to move the mount in right ascension. See my $30 tracker video for a completely manual mount: th-cam.com/video/P_qqLA0WKJg/w-d-xo.html I think the fundamental confusion here is there is 'tracking' and there is 'guiding'. These are fundamentally different things, tracking can be manual (controlled by your hands) or motorized (controlled by an electric or wind-up motor), and guiding can be manual (looking through a guide scope) or software controlled (auto-guiding). The purpose of tracking is to to track the motion of the night sky. The purpose of guiding is to correct very small errors with a motorized mount due to the gearing not being perfect. If this is still not clear, please let me know a couple mounts
@@NebulaPhotos Sorry for not being more clear. I have a Skyguider Pro, which sits in a manual, non-computer-controlled mount. Would a mount controlled by a computer be better to put my SG Pro in? Would it help with PA? Once I have PA, the SG Pro can't be moved so u don't lose PA, right? So what good would a computer-controlled mount make? Does it help if I choose to auto-guide?
@@deeber35 Got it. You are correct, there is no difference to the polar alignment procedure. Here are the major advantages of a Computerized, GO-TO, Equatorial mount over the iOptron SkyGuider Pro: 1. GO-TO. You don't have to find deep sky objects, you just tell the mount where to point and it does it for you. This is only possible because it has motors on both the RA and DEC axes and can talk to a computer or hand controller with a database of the sky. This can be very accurate with something called 'platesolving' where software takes short photos of the night sky, and continues to correct until you have the position exactly right. Very nice for multi-night shoots. 2. Autoguiding. A sky-guider pro can be auto-guided, but you can only send corrections to the RA axis since it doesn't have a declination motor. A full GO-TO mount can be corrected in both RA and Declination which can make it more accurate, and more forgiving if your polar alignment is off. 3. Dithering. Dithering moves the mount slightly in between exposures to move the fixed pattern sensor noise around so that it can be rejected during stacking. The skyguider pro can only dither in RA, a full mount can dither in both RA and DEC which makes it more effective for rejecting noise through dithering. This is by far the best preventative measure for something called 'walking noise'.
I'm not seriously considering doing this, but I'm just curious. Does anyone do imaging with a monochrome camera and more filters than just red, green, and blue? Like, seven-color or fifteen-color images?
You could, but it might not last all night if you are also running dew heater strips, etc. Maybe having two Celestron Power tanks or just running some things on separate smaller batteries would work.
I bought the Askar 300 recently after seeing this video. Went out for the 1st time last night and could not for the life of me get the scope to focus. Using a Sony A7R III. Help. What am I doing wrong?
What kind of adapter are you using to attach the camera? My guess is it doesn't have adequate thickness. Did it look like you were coming more into focus as you racked the focuser all the way out? I wish stores would stop selling thin t-adapters for mirrorless cameras as I've met several people who have had this issue. If you don't want to buy a new t-adapter, you can get some spacers instead. If you don't want to mess with spacers, I would suggest the "William Optics 48mm Wide T-Ring for Sony E-Mount Cameras"
@@NebulaPhotos I was suggested a T-Ring from the store I got the scope at. Yes it is a thin adapter. I saw the WO T-Ring today with the 37mm thickness. I will purchase it today. But one question...I thought we didn't have to worry about backfocus with these astrographs. I guess I'm wrong, yes? Thanks for the quick response. FYI, I was still able to get a decent shot of C/2022 E3 with the crappy 28-70 kit lens. But not what I was hoping for. Thanks again Nico
@@feetheweasel We don't have to worry about precise backfocus as you would with a flattener or flattener/reducer, but it is then common with astrographs to use a fairly short focus travel for added stability with heavy camera loads. But this means they have to decide what will be a common spacing between the end of the focuser and the camera sensor, and they usually go with somewhere around 55mm as that is the industry standard. If you would, please let the store know to stop suggesting the thin t-ring as this will be a common problem with most 'astrographs' I've used. Sorry for the confusion - hope you get another clear night with the comet!
@@NebulaPhotos I understand. Will buy the WO T-Ring from Agena on your recommendation. Should have gotten the scope from there in the 1st place and this probably wouldn't have happened. Will eventually move over to an actual astronomy camera but for right now it's the A7R all the way. I'm extremely grateful for your knowledge and guidance...thanks Nico. ✌️
@@NebulaPhotos That's the diffraction limit. I doubt this is diffraction limited. Too short for the money. I don't even see a half decent Airy pattern, just a smudge. But again, the CCD might be too coarse. You should get a decent microscope objective and analyze the focal pattern of a star using the same camera on both scopes. Without that, your review is nothing but one of those hundreds Amazon reviews.
@@EngineeringFun Sure, if high-resolution imaging or well-sampled stars is the goal, I wouldn't get this scope, but you are unlikely to find anything better at 60mm aperture. I can't really test as you'd like me to, as I don't have the skies for it. My average blur from seeing is too large.
@@NebulaPhotos Makes perfect sense. I have a good and easy test for you if you can install an eyepiece. Take a standard newspaper out on a windy and cool day, over grass. Make sure everything is super stable. Try to BARELY read the small (regular print). If you can go 70 meters (for the 60mm aperture) and still be able to understand the general meaning of the text (you should not be able to see the letters clearly), you are around diffraction limit. Cheers!
@@EngineeringFun Ah, that is a good test! Unfortunately, this telescope isn't designed to accept an eyepiece. Do you know of an equivalent daytime test, but with a camera at prime focus?
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
We need more reviews like this. Astrophotography is such a niche market and not many reviews from equipment out there.
Really nice comparison Nico. Appreciate the close up shots of the corner stars. Both scopes performed well.
I really like this review type of video. Another thing I extremely like about your channel is that a lot of your videos are made for amateurs or beginners in astrophotography and that really helps! thank you so much nico
Agreed. The first 3 minutes of the video answered about 10 questions I had. Great presentation.
Fun fact: this Video made me buying the FRA 300 this July. After that I wanted to get the Star Adventurer 2i. I already was at the checkout for ordering it, when I heard of the GTi.. I started watching videos about it and came back to this Video of yours! 😂🥰 first at that point I realized: you had this mount! I got so excited and I couldn’t resist: I bought the GTi… ✨💙 thank you for your great videos, Nico! Can’t wait to start shooting…
Great Nadine! That's a great setup, I think you will have a lot of fun with it! -Nico
Will the fra300 work with the SA 2i?
Just gotta say your vids have been super helpful in my research leading into astrophotography. Thanks for taking the time to curate and teach!!
A most excellent review, Nico. I'm glad that you're reviewing reasonably priced equipment that more of your followers and afford. I look forward to many more.
I ordered an Askar FRA300 and I received it in the mail today. I cant wait to set it up and try it out. Thank you for the review.
Awesome review. I totally agree with the previous comments that we need more of these sorts of videos. Really really useful and I shall be buying this scope as a result. Great work thanks!
Thanks a lot Nico! No matter what question I have in my mind I always find a video here. And just in case I want any other details or info, you always reply🙏🏻🙏🏻😄😄
Yet another beautiful image Nico, and thanks for the review! I love the framing, the square sensor has a 16803-ish feel to it, I love it!
Thank you for this review. I share the Boston-area skyscape with you and am always impressed with the images you are able to capture as well as the detail you provide about process and gear selection.
Nico, great comparison.
I have the new version of the red cat 51 and I can confirm that the front lens element does move in and out when focusing,
That 533 sensor color also matches with several combinations of scopes. For wide field views Red Cat is a good performer. Great reviews Nico!
Congratulations Niko Very Good video the telescope is great!!!!😱😱😱😱🙏🙏😱😱😱
Glad you said the weight of the rig up on the sa GTi. I am a bit obsessed with it lol.
Going back to the scopes, I like that you said you were having to be a bit picky. They both performed very well. It felt that you were struggling to find things to really comment on for difference. I think if you mixed all 18 of the analysis boxes you wouldn't be able to tell them apart.
Ultimately though it comes down to the final product and the askar looked astounding. The nebulosity looked like someone put droplets of dye in water.
If I may make a small correction: f/5.6 -> f/5 is 1/3 stop, f/5.6 to f4.8 is 1/2 stop
I took my first picture with my FRA 300. It did not disappoint. North America and Pelican Nebulas. The reds were to strong because of the L Enhance filter. But the starts were tight and round all the way to the corners. Also there was virtual no light drop off at the corners and that was even with out the flats I messed up. Love the scope so far!!!
This is great. With my Redcat I get fairly significant "coma" at the edges with an APS-C I don't know if that's just my particular Redcat as I don't really see it that bad on yours, especially since you're full frame. I'm planning to buy the FRA300 for this exact reason, that I don't get any coma at the edges with my 2600MC Pro. I usually check my frames in ASTAP and have mild to none in camera tilt so I can assume that's accurate and not a tilt issue.
You have hit the nail squarely on the head these small high-tech telescopes are amazing.
Goodbye to my hernia-busting beastie. Good vid!! Keep it up.
You have some of the most informative videos I've ever come across. Bravo!
I'm torn between the Askar 300 and the Starfield 60. They both look pretty great. Thanks for the terrific review!
Thank you very much Bruce for your considerable work and the transmission of your unique information ✨✨✨
I've been waiting sooooo long for Askar to make a 300. Super excited for this.
Hey Nico. I was just curious about the clip where you show the Redcat side by side with the other scope. You mention the dark corners of the RC52, and I was wondering if you would still get the dark corners if you use a camera with a crop sensor, like the T3i, or would it still exist regardless of crop or full frame sensors?
Thanks Nico, I might have to consider this. I have the redcat51 that I'm not as impressed with as I thought I'd be.
Can you explain why? I was thinking of getting the new GTI and a redcat 51 as my first DSO set up
I would be very interested in knowing what has been your problems or experience. I am really considering a Red Cat 51. I love the colors I see in the OSC star clusters in Astrobin. I think it is hard to beat but, would love to know real user experience and possibly issues that I may have skipped before deciding in the purchase. Thanks in advance!!
Nice review. I have the FRA500. Love it. One thing to note, is they are Petzval, so you don't have to worry about backfocus as much.
That’s one of the nice QoL things about these scopes.
Nice review, Nico. Thanks!
CS✨
Damien
I bought me the FMA 230 in November and i really love it. Menawhile there is even a EAF adapter available which makes it really nice to use remote
Awesome video Nico. I'm torn between the FRA300 and the Z61. If you had to choose which would it be?
Awesome review, but immediately I could notice this Askar is mounted on the new Skywatcher GTI mount. Did you test it yet? Very interested as the payload capacity itself was not improved compared to the Adventurer 2i Pro that I have tried but only usable for very light setups.
I'd love to know how it went on the GTI mount as well.
Thanks! Amazing final image.
Good review. But if it's being touted as a quintuplet, then there should be no CA as far as I'm concerned regardless of the budget price point. It looks like it has the potential to be another tiny beast as I call the smaller scopes with punch, like the Sharpstar 76mm APO.
Loved the Hara Noda tune in the background at the beginning ang the end.
Thanks so much for this review, I was literally just researching these 2 scopes. Much appreciated!
Another honest review! Keep up the good work Nico!
Very nice review, Nico! A quintuplet is on my list to buy (in the next 5 years because everything is too expensive) and the FRA300 is the most affordable I've seen so far.
Not wrong mate, just under $1400 here in Australia.
Would you ever do a review on the Svbony Doublet Refractors in the near future?
Hey Nico. Thanks for this video. It made me buy one of the first units available in Germany since I was looking for a scope in the 300mm range for my Star Adventurer 2i and Petzval is a great addition (I already have too many adapters...). Although I recently was wondering, if I could fit my QHY268c to this instead of my EOS450D while shooting from the backyard. So I added up all the weights from your video + tech specs and just came at around 5.15kgs... Close. So weight reduction time. Removed the handle and put it on a scale with all unneeded screws. 167g, whew. But out of curiosity, I put the whole unit on the scale... And to my surprise it only had a weight of 2925g without the handle but with the USB heating band attached?! I also put my 450D on the scale for comparison and it was only 6g off compared to the factory data. So now I wonder what is missing in my FRA300 compared to yours 😄 I hope I can sleep tonight...
Been using the Redcat51 with the SSI533 MC Pro and love the combo especially for Nebulas.
Nico. Thanks for the review. Is Askar 300 too much scope for the Ioptron Sky guider pro? With a canon rp? I also appreciate how you can review a product without losing your integrity in the process. Thank you.
I'd estimate you'd be at around 8 pounds with just the scope and the RP, and a bit over 9 pounds if you add a small guide scope. So you should be fine on weight. Of course everything is harder with a tracker when you push it to it's limit, but I've done a fair amount of imaging with the AT60ED at 360mm f.l. on the iOptron SmartEQ. With good polar alignment, I could do 30 sec. unguided subs and 2-3 minutes with guiding. I suspect you could get similar results with the iOptron Skyguider Pro.
Wow, what a beautiful telescope! Impressive Askar!
Outstanding Nico
Nice review and comparison. I was just wondering, in the aberration inspector the stars in the bottom left on the Askar looked quite elongated to me but I didn't see that corner on the Askar talked about. I have issues with elongation of stars in the corners of my Redcat (it went back to WO for "repair" but still has some issues). I was thinking about replacing it with something like the Askar but those stars in the bottom left of the Askar looked similar to what I am getting in my Redcat.
I recently bought the scope and will start with my Nikon Z6ii. I am intrigued as to the ideal 1) mount and 2) camera for this scope. The options you present make sense. Why spend $2k on a mount if there is one for $700 that does the job)? The 533 camera with filter wheels and filters is just over $2k! So when considering such large sums I wonder if they are really worth it and if they are the right choice. A salesperson told me that if I bought the 533 camera, I would be unable to use it with some ZWO equipment. Still a learning curve ahead.
Thanks for the test. The FRA300 is also comparable to the SharpStar 61 with its f/4.5 reducer for 275mm focal length, which is also the same as the infamous OPT Radian 61. The SharpStar / Radian 61 can both be used visually, but it looks like the FRA300 cannot? It is just for imaging? Looks like your results closely match the spot diagrams provided for the FRA300 which do show a bit of lateral chromatic aberration. And unlike the larger FRA astrographs there’s no additional reducer available for the 300 for an even faster configuration as an option. But f/5 is pretty nice! Looks like a good combo with the GTi mount. Cheers!
Re: visual use. No luck with a mirror diagonal, not enough inward focus. Holding an eye piece up, I can see where it would focus, and you'd need a very thin adapter, and even then I don't think it would work with all eyepieces. So I'd say technically possible, but not ideal for visual.
@@NebulaPhotos That’s what I thought. Similar to the RedCat in that respect. Thanks!
@@alandyer910 Doesn't the Redcat have a diagonal that will work for visual?
Awesome comparison very detailed and very much appreciated! Great work brother🤘
Thanks mate a great review video. It would be great if you can do a review and comparison of this detail on all the major branded scopes out there and build a catalog for us newbies to come to and watch before making expensive purchases so that we can make informed decisions based on a proper review like yours.
I purchased the FRA400 recently and just did my first light with it and I am very happy with it. It's a great scope.
hello I finally got myself an am5 mount on AVX tripod and the zwo extension. bought used for a good price and I would like to get the askar fra300! I have an asi air plus, an EAF an asi 120 for guiding with the 50 mm scope from svbony. The main camera is the asi 294 MC pro.
My question is is the camera made for this lens!? And what would be the good filters that I should get to complete my kit?
Thanks Benoit
I wish all product reviews were like this. It's like I just got a miniature Master Class education. 🧠👍🧠
Excellent review Nico, very useful mate 👍
Which camera is best with the Recat 51? I’ve a main camera of Canon EOS R6. What is needed between the camera and lens? Sorry for all the questions. Love this type of photography.
Hi. Great comparison review. Can you explain why putting a guide scope on top and an ASIAir on the finder shoe might be preferred to the other way around?
Weight distribution. Putting the heaver thing on top will cause less pull to one side and make balance easier to obtain
@@whocares5946 Makes sense but I was thinking that there might be an advantage to offset weighting to offset backlash.
Thank you Nico great video, very helpfull )
this is a fair video when looking into wider fov's.. i image mono, it would be nice to see what the asi2600mm would be as I have no idea what your dslr sensor size is, or if your cam is modified. there are so many variations to this hobby. I have the reducer waiting for my FRA400 which puts me at 280mm with the 2600mm and am very excited to see the images I'll be able to get with it. doesn't look like I'll be getting that until September, if I'm lucky....
Very nice review. I realized that you had the Askar sitting on the new StarAdventurer GTI mount. Did you take the images with this mount? The Jellyfish blew my socks off ...
Unfortunately, the GTi arrived a week after I took the Jellyfish shot (which was taken on the EQ6R) so I've yet to test that combo, but hope to soon.
@@NebulaPhotos I'd be very happy to hear about the results. I'm currently looking for a light apo to pair with my Star Adventurer and had considered getting a RedCat. This Askar seems like a good alternative, since I wanted a bit more focal length :)
@@NebulaPhotos Thank you, looking forward to your report. The Askar + guide scope + camera + filter wheel may get you pretty close to the maximum load of the GTI. May be an interesting test how the GTI performs at its limits.
If you look at the lens design of fra300 the rear lens group lenses are drawn with distance where the last lens sits in the rotator. Is this design ok? By looking at the lens design of fra400 the rear lens group lenses are close together and sit more in the middle of the telescope. Which design is better for dedicated astro cams regarding any deviations in the imaging train?
Thanks for disclosing and marking this as having a paid promotion. (I realize the paid promotion is Squarespace, but it's also the free scopes)
How did the GTI handle those exact 5kg?! Unfortunately cables, Dewheater and ASIair will add another 500g… would be VERY interesting to see how SA GTI can handle overweight
Nice setup and great output for both instruments Nico. Question for you: I see you are using the Mac to process the images. Do you use it to control the camera and mount too?
I don't, but I have friends that do. There are a few options. One: use a virtual machine with Windows installed. Two: Use Mac-compatible software like Nebulosity/PHD2. Three: Use a distributed approach with a Raspberry Pi and INDI/KStars/EKOS (all free)
Hi Nico. Thank you for another awesome video... I didn't experiment yet, but hope to this month, with my Ioptron skyguider Pro and RedCat 51, and I was wondering what one should do with the mount after Polaris alignement.
It would be logical that once Polaris is aligned the mount should be running at all times after that to now follow the stars, but when you mount your camera after having aligned, and while the Skyguider is now running, doesn't it impact the alignment you just did when mounting the camera on the Skyguider?
And if one needs later to refocus the camera lens, does touching the camera and lens when it's on the running Skyguider slow down the mount motor while doing so, thus maybe losing the set alignment?
I always wondered about that... Thanks for any insight if you have the time...
Hi Alan, Polar alignment is solely about pointing the mount physically in the right direction and with the right latitude adjustment on the wedge or ball head. The mount does not have to be on to polar align, and polar alignment will stay good for months as long as as the mount is not not disturbed. So to answer your question, you can definitely turn the skyguider off after polar aligning and then turn it back when ready to track. The key thing is not to disturb where the mount is pointed while attaching the camera. I think there is an optional declination bracket that should allow you to polar align with the camera/telescope attached. That would probably be ideal if I'm remembering correctly. Been awhile since I've seen a skyguider pro.
@@NebulaPhotos Hi Nico. thank you greatly for your answer. It is very clear with your explanations, again some spatial dumbness and not thinking that indeed, I can stop the tracker to fiddle with the camera as it's not the whole head that moves (logical) but just the mounted camera, and the head stays always aligned on Polaris as long as we don't move the tripod it's on, or its position.
You are right though for the Sky Guider Pro, if mounted with declination bracket and not direct ballhead, it gives the advantage of leaving an aperture for re-polar aligning, even with camera mounted, which I believe will prove convenient because it might be a more frequent occurrence that one might think of to hit the tripod or do something that would throw the alignement off...
Thank you again for your time answering my question, it's very much appreciated.
As an evolution of that small setup of mine, I see many quickly jump into astro guiding for more accuracy, and on this subject, I was wondering if you have ever heard of a well praised system but not common in US, which is the Lacerta MGEN-3, or would it be too complicated for a beginner, or can only work with telescope? Yet it seems very powerful and convenient for light travel, although very expensive.
I have to go and see on your video if you created content about astro-guiding and any beginner's advice you may have given for the ones with just their little tracker, DSLR and lens.
This MGEN-3 looks like a very cool machine though, but I'm not advanced enough to be able to tell, and maybe there is a better, or simpler, US market equivalent...
Best...
@@alanalain4884 Hi Alan, I've never tried the Lacerta MGEN, but thank you for the reminder, as I've been meaning to get one to try. The nice thing about the MGEN system for DSLR users, is it is self-contained, you can autoguide and dither without a separate computer attached to a guide camera. Another option (cheaper) that is popular today is to buy a ZWO guide camera, and ZWO's proprietary 'ASIAir' device. The ASIAir is a Raspberry Pi mini computer with ZWO's software. It is controlled from your smartphone or table and can take care of communication between the mount and the guide camera. Generally, I have chosen not to auto-guide when using lightweight setups like a star tracker and a DSLR. The biggest advantage is to be able to dither between exposures to break up the 'walking noise' patterns, but the downside is it really complicates the rig. Maybe the Lacerta MGEN you mentioned is the best way to keep the rig fairly simple, but add guiding/dithering.
Hi Nico, if you were going to get a new widefield refractor for astrophotography and are looking at pairing something with either the new Skywatcher SA GTi or the iOptron Skyhunter (and using a max of APS-C size sensors), what would you pick out of the two scopes mentioned here? Ideally be able to fit everything into a backpack still, which has me leaning towards a Redcat 51 paired with the Skyhunter.
Yes, for that kind of portability, go for the Redcat 51
You need to make a Jazz playlist !
At 14:40 you say "full frame camera". Earlier you showed a QHY533M when you weighed the camera/scope combination. Did you change to an full frame DSLR or something in between? The 533M has a 16 mm diagonal sensor vs. a full frame camera with a 43 mm diagonal sensor. I assume that would make a huge difference at the edges with vignetting and possibly flatness. Still, I like the look and the price/performance seems quite good. I already have a Redcat so this one isn't for me but I'll probably tell a few friends who "need" a wider field scope.
Sorry, I had the 533 installed for the demo, but the comparison shots were taken with the Canon EOS Ra as mentioned at 09:10. Then at the end, for the Jellyfish shot, I switch back to the 533. Totally see how that could have been confusing.
@@NebulaPhotos Wow, I missed the mention of the Ra. I saw the two frames you were showing were rectangular so should have re-watched and listened more closely for the change in camera. Thanks!
So is this the Cunard line of scopes!???
These four and five element designs seemed expensive to me, UNTIL I looked at how much field flatteners cost, so that's a $150 minimum, and probably more like $250 expense.
Hello - very nice video . Thank you .
I am considering the FRA400 .
I have a 2” screw in optolong l enhance filter . It’s not clear to me how I can use that with this scope .
How do I mount it ?
Thank you
My first and only refractor is the Astro-Tech AT65EDQ quad that I use use today. It still takes great images but being a bit longer FL and a little slower at f6.5 than the Askar. I do use a 0.85 focal reducer to make it a little wider.
Would it be much of an upgrade to replace it with this Askar? Thanks
I've never been able to secure an AT65EDQ since they rarely come up on the used market. I'd say probably stick with what you have as this would be pretty similar.
Hi Nico, I take it the subs you were comparing were taken without any narrowband filters present?? Cheers!
Correct, just a Canon Ra connected to the back of the telescopes, with the Astronomik L-2 clip in Luminance filter I always leave in the camera body.
Thanks so much for this! I've been dissatisfied with my Canon 300mm f/4 L prime for astrophotography and am looking to replace it. Question: didn't see anything about adapters, so how would it mount to either my Canon 90D or Canon Ra? Thanks!
It comes standard with a 48mm thread, so you just need a 48mm wide t-adapter for Canon EF or RF.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks Nico! I know what I want for my birthday now. Check out what I've done with just standard DSLR cameras and lenses. I'm guessing this will scale up my quality even higher. th-cam.com/video/SiyRznMDdjo/w-d-xo.html
@nebulaphotos are you sure about 3.4 KG / 6 LB 11 OZ for the FRA300? Any possible error in your conversion from LB to KG or the other way around?
Whoops, probably should have been 3.04 kg. That's my guess for the error, good catch
Hello :D
Any chance you will test the Sky-Watcher Evolux 62 ED?
Ok newbie question here but does a 300mm telescope equate to 6x magnification like a 300mm lens does? what differences would I notice between this telescope and my Canon 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM?
There won't be any difference in terms of magnification or field of view if you use the same camera. The differences would just be in the quality of the star field. Generally a camera lens doesn't do as good a job with stars as a telescope, but some Canon L lenses like the one you mention are quite good, esp. if you stop down to f/4 or f/5.
Which one would you recommend the most, redcat or askar? Or are they both so close it's best to go with the cheapest option?
Once you consider the accessories included with the Askar, they cost about the same. So tough decision. Personally, I'd go with the Redcat if the little extra weight/size was a concern, and the Askar if not.
f/5 to f/5.6 is a difference of 1/3 of a stop as opposed to 1/2.
Ah, you're right. I misspoke.
This looks like the perfect setup for me. Do you have a build list for everything? I'm guessing the sw gti is too close to the maximum weight. what would be a step up from the gti? (the Sky-Watcher EQM-35?).
Yes, EQM-35 or HEQ5 would be good steps up from the GTi, but still not too heavy.
Great video nico !!
If you have one to choose between the two, which one would it be?
For me, the Askar because I prefer it’s focuser and more traditional format. Optically they are both good and the Redcat might actually be slightly sharper. I’d only choose the Redcat if weight were an issue- for example putting it on a star tracker.
@@NebulaPhotos thanks!!
i wonder if my ef-m mount canon m6 mark ii can hook up to the askar
Nice video but the music is really distracting.
Hey. It is only for a few minutes.
Whatsamatteryou!? We are dealing with a time & distance capture of photons, travelling through hundreds, thousands, millions of light years...and you're objecting to a few minutes of "noise pollution"!?
Be a good Earthling, will ya!? 🐇🤔😱😷🌈🙃
I thought exactly the opposite. I really enjoyed the music.
Nico. Great video.
I have Canon and Canon astro modified bodies and lenses. I also have a huge Meade SCT telescope which is painful. This little gem looks appealing but I am still trying to understand APO refractor telescopes or astrographs. To me they seem similar to a camera and a lens. What is better about say the FRA300 versus using a regular Canon telephoto lens and a 6D where I can get f/2.8? Is it the APO optics that minimize CA? Is the magnification similar? I'm guessing one would not use this for planetary photography. Just trying to understand the strengths of the APO. I'll Google it.
A Canon DSLR lens will perform better than these so-called astro lenses. Image resolution is strictly a function of f/number, so it's not even a contest between f/2.8 beating f/5. You can lock focus on a DSLR simply with a piece of removable tape. Not sure why these astro lenses even have a market. They do adapt to various bodies (Canon, Nikon, etc), so perhaps that's a minor advantage. The prices aren't favorable.
The main reason people prefer these small telescopes over camera lenses is they render the star field better meaning few aberrations on the stars, and round stars out to the corners of a full frame sensor. I've used many camera lenses, and even the best ones have trouble not distorting the stars in the corners of a full frame sensor.
@@NebulaPhotos Canon "L" lenses are better corrected and less aberrant than any of these aftermarket products. "Astro" lenses are not superior in primary performance. You might like the secondary features like the dovetail mechanics, but the "astro" optics are overrated. This is my scientific opinion as an optical engineer working in lens design and performance evaluation, and a lifelong astrophotographer by hobby.
If you look at the Canon 300mm f/4L IS USM, it is $1028 vs $949. The auto focus and higher speed are worth the extra. If one can find a non-IS version, it is probably cheaper, not to mention a large market on eBay for used ones. A direct comparison of image quality will be appreciated.
I have 1st generation star adventurer (I Ordered GT1. fingers crossed). Now that you've been playing with GT1, are first impressions good? As far as scopes, are you concerned with the extra weight on the tracker? Pretty much still using Lenses.
Yes, I am liking the GTi. Will need to get back to you on loading it up with lots of weight.
Kool, what I was getting at, is the setup in this video looks fairly heavy. Was wondering how much it weighs, and how it's handling that?
just wondering what went to this setup (FRA300 and GTi). I'm looking at these combo.
I still think it's a good combo, but I've been busy with other reviews and other stuff so haven't had time to get it out much. Let me know if you have any questions about it though.
who won the camera package?
I've not seen a notification about it yet
Oscar S. from Texas. www.nebulaphotos.com/giveaway/
Greetings Nico;
Upgrading to HEQ5 mount with SLR. Suggestion for first telescope. Wildcat 51 unattainable and others so pricey. I value your opinion. Thank you.
What is your budget? Look at the Svbony 503 line or the Astro-tech AT line for some nice budget doublets that can be fitted with matched field flatteners.
@@NebulaPhotos +1 for Astro-Tech. I'm using my AT60ED and it's amazing. I'm still waiting to get my hands on a flattener/reducer so I've had to crop in a lot for recent images, but the optics are great. It's no William-optics grade scope but it's really good for the price point.
I tried 2 times for the HEQ5 and tripod shorted on both. Upgrading to the HEQ6 and DID find the RedCat 51. Will return shortly with probably a gaggle of more questions. Thank you for your kind response.
Can I use a DSLR with the Askar fra 300?
Yes, for sure, just need a 48mm t-adapter for your DSLR (Canon EF, Nikon F, etc.)
Thanks!
Wow, thank you for the 'super thanks'! I really appreciate it Forecasting. Clear skies, Nico
Is there a difference in ease of focus between these two different focusing methods? I imagine the helical focuser would be more natural when using the Redcat for terrestrial photography, but is one more precise than the other when focusing on stars?
Yes, the rack and pinion focuser is more precise due to the 10:1 reduction knob, it allows for much smaller movements than the Redcats helical.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks for the quick reply! How would you rate the Askar 200mm lens coarse and fine adjustments vs. the Askar 300mm rack and pinion for precise focus?
@@UnderDriven17 It's in-between a RedCat/Lens and a rack and pinion. I like it slightly better than the Redcat, but not as much as the Askar 300 (typical refractor focuser). Another reason I prefer the rack and pinion is down the road if you want to add a motor for automated focusing, it works much better. With the Redcat/Askar200/camera lens, you need to use a pully which is annoying as it makes manual rotation of the field practically impossible, while with a normal telescope focuser, they typically put the manual rotator behind the focuser on the drawtube.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks for the info. Great channel!
Are pictures taken at maximum zoom?
pictures taken are on a fixed focus telescope
they cannot be photographed on at a maximum zoom
I'm looking for my first scope to go on my GTI. Would also like to use it for the '24 eclipse, would it be suitable? Looking to capture a good field of view of streamers as what I'm aiming for.
Yes, good scope for the GTi. I think it would also be good for the eclipse. At 300mm f.l. you should be able to get the full extend of the outer corona with a long enough exposure. The downside to that focal length is the smaller details (baileys beads, prominences) won't have as much detail, but if your priority is the full corona, it's ideal.
@@NebulaPhotos cheers! It’s either going to be on the 300 or 400. Would you sacrifice some outer corona for inner detail and go a bit longer? Think my location means I’ve a meridian flip 20 mins before totality so going to have to start practicing that 😂
@@danmar94 Personally, yes, I'd go for the more detailed shot at 400mm. Outer corona is very hard to process
Do you really push the weight limits to the ones prescribed for the mount? I often hear people stopping at half the payload capacity.
It's decent advice typically. Really depends on the person. With very good polar aligbment, balance, and guiding, I don't think it is strictly necessary. The mount will not be damaged by going up to the payload limit so there is no harm in trying if you already have the gear. If someone was putting together a setup and they are fairly inexperienced than sticking to a lighter payload is good advice.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks. Just slowly getting that confidence 😊
What’s the guide scope you have in the Askar?
That is the William Optics Uniguide 50mm
Can I buy that RedCat? I have gone through 3 RedCats so far, and none came even close to the performance you show, and I use a 4/3 sensor, almost half the size of a full frame sensor. yes it was very sharp and no false color, but not a flat field at all.
Ah, sorry to hear that. Is the star elongation the same in each corner or different? Do you still have the last RedCat or have you returned/sold them all?
@@NebulaPhotos Thank you for replying! I tried collimating the front lens cell, which made it better, and then used the tilt plate, which made it all symmetric.
But still not flat. Stars are equally elongated in all the corners as well as the side edges in the long direction on my 4/3 sensor. They are all gone, but I am thinking of buying one more, just to see if I get lucky. That same camera works fine on 6 other scopes, but I really want that 250mm focal length. So many targets fit in that framing!
What is the needed back focus, 55mm like for 1600mm or 71mm from the spec sheet I saw ?
It's a quad so there is no strict backfocus requirement like with an external corrector, but your camera will definitely come to focus with 55mm spacing. Didn't try anything else
I have the Askari 180 , do you think it is a better value at 1/2 the price same as the tpo 180?
Hi Mike, I'm not sure, I haven't used it. I guess you could try comparing the results I share in the video to your results and judge for yourself.
how will the false color stand out in photo brigt stuff like m45 or orions stars? i think if use color camera
Not bad at all. The blue Horsehead example was a color camera
Hey Nico, Mr Question here. With the solar eclipse coming up in April 2024, could you do a video on how you would capture imaging of that?
I definitely will be doing videos leading up to the next couple solar eclipses in the US. Maybe not in the next few months, but will definitely do them well ahead of time.
@@NebulaPhotos Fantastic!! Just a follow up...so I'm sure you are aware of the lunar eclipse on the 15th. I plan to try imaging it, but I will only have my tripod, T3i, and a 75-300mm lens. Would that be sufficient to get some nice images? I am hopeful that the weather works out too. Also, do you know when the Star Adventurer GTi will come out? I'm kind of on the fence as to whether I should go ahead and get the 2i or wait for the GTi.
@@kevinashley478 Good timing. I was just working on a lunar eclipse video that should be out soon. Yes, you can definitely image it with that gear. The first batch of Star Adventurer GTis are coming in June, but from what I've heard those are all going to people who have pre-ordered already. Second batch might not be until the Fall.
@@NebulaPhotos Great! I look forward to the lunar eclipse video, as well as the solar eclipse one. I saw the 2017 one in totality with my dad and my kids, but my wife missed it. It is awe inspiring, and I promised my wife that I would take her to see the 2024 one. I think that I might just go ahead and get the 2i, if nothing else it will give me a good amount of practice with the setup. I know the sky a little bit, so it will help me learn more about locations. Thanks for your input.
Are electronic mounts better than manual? Seems once u are aligned, the mount is locked in place. Unless electronic ones make PA much easier, or help with a guiding scope?
It depends what you mean by manual? If you mean a mount that you turn by hand with no motors, then a motorized mount will definitely work much better for astrophotography with a telescope. Our hands are only accurate enough for wide angle camera lenses. If you mean a motorized mount that is not computerized: that can work quite well. The two downsides to a motorized, but not computerized mount: 1. can't take advantage of GO-TO functionality and platesolving for reliably finding and framing objects down to the pixel. 2. depending on mount design, might not be able to take advantage of auto-guiding where software controls the guide corrections. Manual guiding (looking through a guide scope) and making corrections yourself with a hand paddle would still be possible, but that is a lot of work.
@@NebulaPhotos I mean how good is a mount that is not computer-controlled, and not motorized. You can align well with NINA and making micro-adjustments with the mount knobs, right? After that the tracker takes over. So I was wondering how a computer-controlled, electronic mount would be better, and I guess with auto-guide that could be? Without auto-guide it seems a manual (unconnected, not electronic) mount works well?
@@deeber35 If a tracker is not motorized, it can't "take over", it requires constant input from the person to move the mount in right ascension. See my $30 tracker video for a completely manual mount: th-cam.com/video/P_qqLA0WKJg/w-d-xo.html I think the fundamental confusion here is there is 'tracking' and there is 'guiding'. These are fundamentally different things, tracking can be manual (controlled by your hands) or motorized (controlled by an electric or wind-up motor), and guiding can be manual (looking through a guide scope) or software controlled (auto-guiding). The purpose of tracking is to to track the motion of the night sky. The purpose of guiding is to correct very small errors with a motorized mount due to the gearing not being perfect. If this is still not clear, please let me know a couple mounts
@@NebulaPhotos Sorry for not being more clear. I have a Skyguider Pro, which sits in a manual, non-computer-controlled mount. Would a mount controlled by a computer be better to put my SG Pro in? Would it help with PA? Once I have PA, the SG Pro can't be moved so u don't lose PA, right? So what good would a computer-controlled mount make? Does it help if I choose to auto-guide?
@@deeber35 Got it. You are correct, there is no difference to the polar alignment procedure. Here are the major advantages of a Computerized, GO-TO, Equatorial mount over the iOptron SkyGuider Pro:
1. GO-TO. You don't have to find deep sky objects, you just tell the mount where to point and it does it for you. This is only possible because it has motors on both the RA and DEC axes and can talk to a computer or hand controller with a database of the sky. This can be very accurate with something called 'platesolving' where software takes short photos of the night sky, and continues to correct until you have the position exactly right. Very nice for multi-night shoots.
2. Autoguiding. A sky-guider pro can be auto-guided, but you can only send corrections to the RA axis since it doesn't have a declination motor. A full GO-TO mount can be corrected in both RA and Declination which can make it more accurate, and more forgiving if your polar alignment is off.
3. Dithering. Dithering moves the mount slightly in between exposures to move the fixed pattern sensor noise around so that it can be rejected during stacking. The skyguider pro can only dither in RA, a full mount can dither in both RA and DEC which makes it more effective for rejecting noise through dithering. This is by far the best preventative measure for something called 'walking noise'.
I'm not seriously considering doing this, but I'm just curious.
Does anyone do imaging with a monochrome camera and more filters than just red, green, and blue? Like, seven-color or fifteen-color images?
Yes people do that with 7 filters, LRGBSHO
Can I Powering the camera and mount with Celestron Power tank?
You could, but it might not last all night if you are also running dew heater strips, etc. Maybe having two Celestron Power tanks or just running some things on separate smaller batteries would work.
@@NebulaPhotos I heard the cords inputs aren’t the same ?
@@rockanthems It's the standard 12v plug on the GTi if that's what you mean
budget scope is relative to the exchange rate, in Australia this isn't a budget scope :(
I bought the Askar 300 recently after seeing this video. Went out for the 1st time last night and could not for the life of me get the scope to focus. Using a Sony A7R III. Help. What am I doing wrong?
What kind of adapter are you using to attach the camera? My guess is it doesn't have adequate thickness. Did it look like you were coming more into focus as you racked the focuser all the way out? I wish stores would stop selling thin t-adapters for mirrorless cameras as I've met several people who have had this issue. If you don't want to buy a new t-adapter, you can get some spacers instead. If you don't want to mess with spacers, I would suggest the "William Optics 48mm Wide T-Ring for Sony E-Mount Cameras"
@@NebulaPhotos I was suggested a T-Ring from the store I got the scope at. Yes it is a thin adapter. I saw the WO T-Ring today with the 37mm thickness. I will purchase it today. But one question...I thought we didn't have to worry about backfocus with these astrographs. I guess I'm wrong, yes? Thanks for the quick response. FYI, I was still able to get a decent shot of C/2022 E3 with the crappy 28-70 kit lens. But not what I was hoping for. Thanks again Nico
@@feetheweasel We don't have to worry about precise backfocus as you would with a flattener or flattener/reducer, but it is then common with astrographs to use a fairly short focus travel for added stability with heavy camera loads. But this means they have to decide what will be a common spacing between the end of the focuser and the camera sensor, and they usually go with somewhere around 55mm as that is the industry standard. If you would, please let the store know to stop suggesting the thin t-ring as this will be a common problem with most 'astrographs' I've used. Sorry for the confusion - hope you get another clear night with the comet!
@@NebulaPhotos I understand. Will buy the WO T-Ring from Agena on your recommendation. Should have gotten the scope from there in the 1st place and this probably wouldn't have happened. Will eventually move over to an actual astronomy camera but for right now it's the A7R all the way. I'm extremely grateful for your knowledge and guidance...thanks Nico. ✌️
That's the resolution of this scope with respect to the diffraction limit, Nico?
Around 2 arc-seconds.
@@NebulaPhotos That's the diffraction limit. I doubt this is diffraction limited. Too short for the money. I don't even see a half decent Airy pattern, just a smudge. But again, the CCD might be too coarse. You should get a decent microscope objective and analyze the focal pattern of a star using the same camera on both scopes. Without that, your review is nothing but one of those hundreds Amazon reviews.
@@EngineeringFun Sure, if high-resolution imaging or well-sampled stars is the goal, I wouldn't get this scope, but you are unlikely to find anything better at 60mm aperture. I can't really test as you'd like me to, as I don't have the skies for it. My average blur from seeing is too large.
@@NebulaPhotos Makes perfect sense. I have a good and easy test for you if you can install an eyepiece. Take a standard newspaper out on a windy and cool day, over grass. Make sure everything is super stable. Try to BARELY read the small (regular print). If you can go 70 meters (for the 60mm aperture) and still be able to understand the general meaning of the text (you should not be able to see the letters clearly), you are around diffraction limit. Cheers!
@@EngineeringFun Ah, that is a good test! Unfortunately, this telescope isn't designed to accept an eyepiece. Do you know of an equivalent daytime test, but with a camera at prime focus?