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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Hey everyone, today I’m going to show you how to perform a valve adjustment on a Honda S2000. This has been the most requested DIY video so I really hope you find this one useful.
Valve Cover Removal: • DBW Valve Cover Remova...
Valve Cover Installation: • DBW Valve Cover Instal...
Difficulty: Moderate
Estimated time: 90 minutes
Tools necessary:
- 3/8 Ratchet
- 10mm socket
- 5mm hex drive
- Pliers
- 17mm wrench
- 10mm valve adjustment tool - amzn.to/2rR87oj
- Bent feeler gauges - amzn.to/2rxDeVn
Before you start this DIY you want to make sure the engine temperature is under 100* F. The reason the engine must be cold is because the temperature can affect the expansion of metal engine components and it can throw off your measurements. Since it can take several hours for the engine to cool down I normally perform a valve adjustment after the car has been sitting overnight. I also want to point out that you will need two special tools: a set of bent feeler gauges and a 10mm valve adjustment tool. You can find links to these below in the video description.
Steps
1. Once the engine is at room temperature you will need to remove the valve cover. You can find a video that I made on how to do that linked below.
2. Once the valve cover is off you’ll need a little extra room to work with. Remove the fuel rail cover and then unclip the injector wiring harness from the fuel rail.
3. Now you want to setup cylinder 1 so that it is at top dead center. I could make an entire video explaining what top dead center is but for the purposes of this video all you really have to know is that when a piston is at top dead center the valves can be properly adjusted. You can tell when a cylinder is at TDC because the exhaust camshaft lobes will point to 11 o’clock and the intake camshaft lobes will point to 2 o’clock. You can also tell when a cylinder is at TDC by looking at timing marks on the cam gears. For cylinder 1 the timing marks on the cam gears will be pointing inwards towards each other. With the car in neutral use a 19mm wrench to turn the crankshaft clockwise so that cylinder 1 is set to TDC.
4. With the piston you are adjusting at TDC you can now measure the valve clearance using your bent feeler gauges. The valve clearance in this case is the space between the valve stem and the adjusting screw. For the intake side the clearance should be between .21mm to .25mm and on the exhaust side it should be between .25 and .29mm. What you want to do is take a feeler gauge that is sized within the valve’s clearance that you are adjusting and try to insert it between the valve stem and the adjusting screw. If the feeler won’t fit you know that the valve clearance is too tight and needs to be adjusted. If it does fit you want to slide it back and forth and feel how tight the clearance is. Ideally you want the feeler to feel snug with slight drag between the valve stem and the adjusting screw. If the feeler gauge has no drag at all you will want to adjust the valve clearance so it is tighter.
5. To adjust a valve place the valve adjustment tool on the lock nut for the valve you wish to adjust. Make sure the tool is sitting around the lock nut and then lower the flathead until it is sitting correctly on the adjusting screw. Loosen the lock nut by turning the handle counter clockwise. You want to do this while holding the adjustment screw in place with the flathead driver to ensure the clearance doesn’t change. With the lock nut loose you can now spin the flathead in order to loosen or tighten the valve clearance. The adjustment screw should only need a fraction of a turn in order to adjust the clearance to spec. When you have finished turning the adjustment screw you’ll need to tighten the lock nut by turning the handle clockwise, all while holding the adjustment screw in place with the flathead driver. Now you’ll have to measure the valve clearance and repeat this process until the valve clearance is within spec. Once you’re happy with the adjustment, torque the lock nut to 14 ft-lbs.
6. After you are finished with cylinder 1 you will need to rotate the crankshaft 180 degress to get the next cylinder to TDC. The next cylinder to reach TDC will be cylinder 3, then cylinder 4, and finally cylinder 2. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each of these cylinders after you get them to TDC. Once all the valves finally adjusted you can begin putting things back together. Make sure all the lock nuts are torqued and remove the 19mm wrench from the crankshaft bolt if its still there.
7. Replace the fuel rail cover and replace the injector wiring harness onto the fuel rail.
8. Finally, reinstall the valve cover. You can find a video that I made on how to do that linked below.
Thats it! Start up the car to ensure that everything is operating normally. If you encounter a misfire double check all of your electrical connections and make sure everything is bolted down correctly.
man i hope you never stop making s2k videos
Me too lol.
lol
Can’t believe this and the valve cover vids are 7 years old! Used all three today. The inlet side is fun. Thanks for doing them.
did my first: valve adjustment, spark plug change, valve cover gasket change, spark tube seal change, pcv valve change, and tdc sensor o ring change. all with help from your videos. went well. thanks guy.
As a new owner of an S2000, these videos are gold. Thank you!
Another great video! Making the S2000 the most well documented car to work on one video at a time! I am sure that was a pain to film so meticulously and get clear shots of everything. Great work.
+Andrew Hake That is the goal! I just want a giant S2000 video library. Your thoughts always means a lot! Thank you.
Very good non-ego centric instructional video. Most of the other vids on this topic are self-centered, and don't cover the most important details like this vid. Your camera work and close-ups are exceptional. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
I used this detailed video, while i was at tx2k when i checked my clearance. Your detailed videos are great and actually help people out there. Thank you.
🙏
I just adjusted my valves, put on new spark plug tube gaskets and a valve cover gasket (and didn't break anything lol). All of my valves were out of spec (Cylinder 4 was spot on for some reason on both sides) especially the exhaust valves which were all tight from .005-.007. Not only that, I got to take a look at my retainers and keepers, and they were all sitting flush, and based on your video that would indicate that I don't have any issues there hopefully. (2003)
Anyway,
Thank you so much for these DIY videos, we all really appreciate it man!
Sorry for the late response. Really happy that you were able to get all that done safely and that my videos helped! Don’t stress about the valve retainers if they look good!
Well, I am going to do this to my s2000 on Wednesday. Currently waiting on the tools. I am extremely nervous to do this but I have your video for guidance. Thank you!
Good luck!
Hoping you see this...if you ended up doing it yourself how did it go? Just got my first S2K and want to do this, but am extremely nervous as well.
Shortest and best video on valve adjustment. Thst is talent.
I bought a beat up AP1 project that needs tons of TLC. Your videos have been extremely useful!
Good luck
just watched this! best DIY I've ever seen for this job on our cars! thanks sir. I would shake your hand If I could. would you be doing any valve retainers replacement in the future?
+S2low you know damn well I will hahaha. I personally don't believe in replacing valve retainers on non track cars but I'll do it on my daily driver for the video.
+S2low I appreciate the kind words. There is a reason the valve adjustment DIY videos suck. It's because it's hard to film and explain so I appreciate it.
does the valves make a slight nocking nose when they need adjusting (help)
This seems a relatively easy diy because of the adjustment screws. On my yz250f motorcycle you need to adjust the valves by replacing the shims with different thickness. The check interval is 10h but it’s unlikely they will need adjustments. So you need to take the cam shaft and timing chain out. But it’s Only one cylinder, 5 valves in total and different clearance exhaust vs intake. Also it may need valve stems check and removing the carbon build up, new lapping and molybdenum lubricant.
Great help in your vid. Just got mine done after work 3hrs no issues
Fantastic video. I am sure this will be a valuable resource to future owners who do not know how to adjust their valves.
+Jamie Murray Thanks Jamie. I'm hopeful as there are no other good s2000 valve adjustment video on TH-cam! It took me a while to make this as coherent as I could.
How do you acquire this depth of car knowledge? I'm lost in nearly all your videos because of the terminology. Is there something you could recommend?
Also, could you do a step by step video on what to check (if this then do that) if getting white smoke from tailpipe?
Thanks
+LimeBlazer I've tinkered on a lot of S2000s 😊
What terminology is confusing for you? Like camshaft lobes and valves? I am in the middle of breaking down an engine so I could do an informative video on engine internals.
I want to make my videos so they empower someone with little mechanical knowledge to be able to work on their own car. If they can't do that in my opinion I've failed.
Not sure I've ever had white smoke from the tailpipe so I haven't even really looked into that.
Just wanted to be sure to thank you. Very nicely done and helpful videos!
You are very welcome
How do you know your tightening to the right ft lbs? Do the tool you’re using to loosen and tighten measure that??
Best DIY video ever! Thank for the share!
Hey man does each cylinder need to be a top dead center when adjusting that certain cylinder valves? If so does each cylinder vales needs to be at 11 o'clock and 2 o'clock? Or is that just cylinder .1? I want to make sure im going to do it properly myself.
Nice deff a big DIY for all s2k's
Car is running SO well after adjusting the valves. 15 of 16 were out of spec! But i do think you undersold how hard it is to access some of those valves, sheesh!
It gets easier with time 😛
How about a chain tensioner replacement video? Why have I not found your great S2000 DIY videos until now? Subscribed
I tend to make videos on problems I’m having and luckily I haven’t had any issues with my TCT for years. It might have to do with the fact that I stay away from Mobil 1! If someone in the area has the problem I would be glad to film the replacement on their car. Thanks for subscribing!
Hi diyvideo! I’m doing the valve adjustment on my ap1 and I want your input as to how the fueler gauge should feel. How should a slight drag feel when sliding the gauge in the valve clearance? I err on the side of the loser end. 0.010 on intake and 0.011 on exhaust. I read that after adjustment, a 0.07 should slide easily on intake w very very little drag. And 0.09 should slide easily on exhaust w very very little drag. Let me know your thoughts
Hey man great video!!! I was wondering about TDC on other cylinders can you still based of the marking on the cam gear? Please let me know thanks!
Excellent video my friend! Makes me want to get those tools and check my AP1's clearance now since I have the cover off to replace the spark plug hole seals :)
+RolanTHUNDER Thanks!!!
Sure. Remember that misfire issue on my '00 AP1 I told you about? Some good news is that its much better now thanks to the new spark plug seals I installed in the valve cover last Saturday. No more oil is seeping into the coil and plug in cylinder 3 or any cylinder for that matter. I swopped coils around in firing order 1-3-4-2 and it seems much better to the point where I can floor it and not get a misfire however, it still misses at idle/lower than 3000 rpm and has a clunky start which concerns me. Sometimes if left overnight or for a day or two then starting becomes a bit more challenging.
+RolanTHUNDER Ah yes oil seeping into the plugs will definitely cause misfires. I would still try to swap some coil packs with someone else.
Gonna get the ones from my Silverstone AP1 tomorrow. I know for a fact they're working well because she never misfired. Will report back.
Sorted the misfire out! Just swopped coil packs with my other S2000 and voila, miss gone :)
I have 25k on my 2007 . Is it nec to adjust them.
Good video. I think you could have gone into a bit more detail how to check if the valve is top dead centre and where and how to turn the crankshaft.
I agree. I made this video a long time ago and would probably do a much better job these days.
Wow dude! Great stuff! You the man! *high five *
+Adam Leach Thanks Adam 😊
Which feeler gauges did you use? If it needs to be between .25 and .29 should I use .27?
Great video. Thanks. Why top dead center? Isn't the point that the cam lobes have to be off the valves? Why not just put the cam lobes pointing up which doesn't require determining top dead center?
Ok, years later I know...
That is how I do it. I call it 180 away. Turn crank until cam lobes are pointing up, 180 degrees away from the follower.
I don't bother finding TDC or counting degrees of crank rotation. I came up with this method in the 1980's, adjusting the valves on my Honda V4 bikes. Same exact valve adjustment methods as the F series.
I only ever did it once the way manual describes, then said forget this. Been doing 180 away ever since. Decades. It works. Its faster, easier. Foolproof.
180 away = cam lobes at 11:00 and 2:00 as mentioned in video. At very least you should check cam lobe orientation before adjusting any valve, even if you using tdc, timing marks, and degrees of crank turn. If they aren't 180 away, stop. You did it wrong. Align marks and try again.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 Yes. I do the same. Been doing it that way in various motors all my life. Works well. Less complicated and therefore less chance to mess it up.
Which model torque wrench did you use? I am concerned about over or under torquing
So your turning the Motor again 180 degrees after each cylinder still your done?
please share the phone holder you're using, the part that goes onto the modifry bracket.
what exact size feeler gauge are you using for for intake and exhaust
my gauges i have are :
.279mm
.229mm
.254mm
.305mm
let me know what you suggest
Great video! in fact all your video's are awesome and super helpful resource. Thank you 100x
Anytime!
great video man. do i need to remove the spark plugs to do this?
No. It will make turning the crankshaft easier tho.
Thanks a lot . love your videos.
Good job mate ! Great vids ! Keep up the great work. thank you !
+AJSIII Thanks AJS! I will continue to produce videos for the S2000
I have a 2006 with 66K miles on it. Doing the valve adjustment now and wanted to get your input on my numbers: Exhaust Valves are at .011 and intake valves are also at .011. What do you think? Any adjustments or can I leave alone.
Intake is loose. Exhaust is fine. Just compare to OEM specs.
Thank you for your reply. I can not get them to a perfect 9 for the intake, do you think if there are not perfect will result in something bad? Thank you. You made it look so easy.
The specifications allow for a range so you’ll be fine.
respect brother
Huge information you missed is to crank 180 degree CLOCKWISE for each cylinder. Im sure it was already said, but I'm not gonna go n read every comment
Hey good point!
Slight drag after you insert? Or before? For instances, my feeler gauges have a hard time inserting but once it is in between the valves there’s no drag in the middle of the gauges. Like there’s no pressure on it. Will it need to be tighten? Or loosen?
After you insert. You may have difficulty getting the gauges in because the angle is making it harder which can be deceiving. So I would say tighten until there is drag when you move the gauge back and forth while still inserted.
Great video as always!
+Suolong Dong Thanks!!
Not sure if this was mentioned in the video but what does adjusting the valves do for you?
The valvetrain metals wears very slowly over time and you just need to adjust them to keep the engine working optimally. If you ignore things you could lose performance (loose) or end up with burnt exhaust valves (tight).
If I’m also changing the camshafts. Should I do the valve adjustment first or after changing the camshafts?
It shouldn’t matter since you adjust the valve when the camshaft lobe is pointed away. However you may need to loosen the valve adjustment nuts to safely remove the camshaft caps.
i did same on my k24 accord...
car idles normal... when i pull hard in 2nd gear the car becomes jerky after 3.5k rpm... some time engine check light blinks...
car pulls perfectly upto 6k rpm in first gear....
what could be the issue ?? transmission is auto triptronic
was perfectly good before
Thanx in advance
No idea. I only work on s2000 sorry.
Great video as always! Did you change the gasket during the assembly?
+Karocko A I thought about it and didn't feel it was needed since there were no leaks. Thought about making a video on changing the different gaskets tho. You also have the spark plug tube seals.
Okey cool! Once again, thanks for your fantastic DIY's :)
+Karocko A No problem! Always open to suggestions
what size is the wrench you use to turn over the crank? 17mm? Also do you go clock wise or counter clock wise to turn it
19mm. I go clockwise but if you follow the 11 o clock and 2 o clock rule you can go either direction.
How do you torque to 14lbs without a torque wrench? Can the nut be torqued without the flathead in place? Thanks!!!!
You do it by feel 😅
DIYGuys ok, thank you, I am new to this, so just trying to learn.
.25 is opening more or its the .29 is opening more the valves?
What?
Mr. DIY Guy I just finished my valve adjustment on my AP1 with 130k miles. I was shocked to find that not even the 0.20mm feeler gauge would fit in ANY of the valve adjustment gaps!! This means that all of them were way too tight right? I think I even tried the 0.18mm which barely even fit in there. I then adjusted each one carefully and checked many times to make sure that they were intake: 0.22mm and exhaust: 0.25mm. Now I noticed that the car starts easier but the engine sounds louder. Is this normal? I also noticed on the road that the VTEC kick is harder now even with the airbox lid on. Normal? How did your engine sound after the adjustment you made? Thanks.
The looser valves are the more noise they will make which is normal. Sounds like you got the job done right!
DIYGuys thanks
Hey man, thanks for the great video, but in the end I couldn't get the car to start, I've already done the adjustment 3 times and made sure everything was reconnected properly, any ideas? the car cranks and cranks but smoke comes out of the intake and that's it
Check your top dead center sensors. Your car won’t start if your timing is off and those sensors look at the camshaft for timing. I’ve had it before where the sensors weren’t tightened down enough and the car wouldn’t start and misfired.
What year is your car?
2003
I'm trying to look up where to find the TDC sensor but I can't find it lol
If you watch my AP1 valve cover removal/installation video you will find it. They are two sensors towards on the rear of the valve cover.
Do you have to rotate the crank a full 180 degrees to get to the next cylinders TDC even if just a few turns will suffice? does rotational direction matter or can I go either anti clockwise or clockwise?
Direction matters if you want to do the cylinders on a certain order. All you really need to know is that if the cam lobes are pointed at 11 and 2 o clock it’s good to adjust.
DIYGuys cool thanks. Seems it doesn't matter if u turn CW or CCW according to some members on S2KI
How often do you recommend doing this on a AP2?
AP2V1 every 50k miles. AP2V2 every 25k miles due to the tendency for exhaust valves get tighter over time.
Ok so when you do cylinder two while turning the crack I should look for those 2 lines to line up again and so on ?
They will only line up like that for cylinder #1. You can just look at the cam lobes for each cylinder. Also if you spin clockwise the order will be 1,3,4,2
DIYGuys thank you.
The cam gears rotate 90 degrees for every 180 degrees the crank is rotated. They can be used to tell which cylinders are at TDC but it’s less straightforward than just looking at the cam lobes.
Will I be ok reusing my valve cover gasket or will I need to purchase a new one? 03 with 75k
You should be fine reusing.
@@DIYGuysvideo so grateful for this video. First time it took me like 4 hours because I was taking my time and double checking but I can now do it in probably a hour or less. I’ve owned my S for many years and it was always very quiet. When I did my first valve adjustment, a lot of them were really tight. After doing the valve adjustments, the motor is a lot more noisy now. Like I can hear the valves tapping I guess.
I was told that property adjusted valves will be somewhat noisy but I’m not used to it this loud. My engine was really quiet and now all I hear is my valves tapping. I’ve checked it numerous times and they are in spec now. Do you think it’s normal that it’s noticeably louder now?
Shit...this explains why after I adjusted my Suzuki DR valve clearance (tighter), I lost compression and now wont start..
Professional
Awesome DYI. how tight were the exhaust valves? Intake okay?
+s2kiJax exhaust valves were tight AF as expected. Intake was mostly ok. Some loose some tight. Gonna make a follow up video on the 06+ explaining why valve clearances burn valves
Excellent thanks again… How often are you recommending that the valves be checked on the 06+ cars?
+s2kiJax I'll resort to whatever Billman suggests. Don't remember if it's 30k or 50k
After the valve is adjusted and tightened will using a torque wrench throw off the clearance since you will not be holding the screw in place?
It’s possible. What I’ll do it tighten the nuts by feel without a torque wrench by using the tool and check them later. Most of the time they are tight enough the components are very strong so it not as easy to strip them. You just don’t want them coming apart later which has happened to me once.
DIYGuys - thanks for the help. I adjusted my valves today with no issue. The exhaust valves were all a little tight, and the intake were fine.
I found that removing the air filter box made it worlds easier to turn the crankshaft. Also removed the heat shield to get to #3, and #4.
Yes it depends on what you use to turn the crank. If you don’t have a 19mm wrench and only have a ratchet removing the air box helps for sure. Good call on the heatshield too. Is your car DBW by chance?
DIYGuys it's a 2006 so I believe so.
Just curious since DBW exhaust valves seem to tighten. Interesting
are the stock valve springs dual or single springs?
Single.
Is your car being sluggish sometimes one of the symptoms of needing to adjust valve? I recently bought a s2000 with 130k miles on it and at times it runs strong but other times it runs a bit sluggish and not very responsive. I had changed the coil pack thinking it might help and the cleaned the map sensor dont know what else it can be but this. Please help. Thank you.
+Meezus Christ Valve adjust won't make much of a difference in how the car feels in my opinion. I can only notice a difference in the sound of the valves.
What do you mean by sluggish?
+DIYGuys it doesn't feels less torquey. Ive been reeding on s2ki forums, and someone had the same problem Im going through and they said that they adjusted the valves and it fixed their problem. Not sure.
+Meezus Christ Give it a shot. It’s cheap to do. Just a little difficult.
I feel like I am not handling the feeler gauges correctly (bent ones). Sometimes they don't fit in at all and then at the next try I can move them inside very easily.
I thought I could just open/widen the valve as much as possible, insert the feeler gauge with the correct measurement and then tighten the valve again until the feeler gauge feels snug?
Would that be a good solution or rather not?
That’s another way to do it absolutely.
Thank you for your quick response. And also thank you for all your great tutorials :-)
Great, my feeler gauge comes in "too small", "perfect middle", "too big".
For intake (0.21mm-0.25mm) that is "0.203mm", "0.229mm", "0.254mm"
For exhaust (0.25mm-0.29mm) it is "0.254mm", "0.279mm", "0.305mm"
I will just open the valve clearance until I can easily move in the feeler gauge with the "perfect middle" (0.229mm and 0.279mm) measurements and then tighten the valve clearance until I feel some resistance while still being able to move the feeler gauge around a little.
I think this way I won't need to "scratch around" as much with the feeler gauge. The downside is that I might be opening/changing valves that actually have the perfect measurement already.
I forgot to mention. The downside to this method is that you have to wedge the feeler in so that it can sit in place since you need two hands on the adjustment tool. So it usually only works for a few cylinders for me.
Hmmm I thought I would loosen the locknut, open the valve clearance, then put in and hold the feeler gauge with one hand and use the other hand to adjust/tighten the valve clearance with the screw. Then I would remove the feeler gauge with one hand while still holding/fixating the adjustment screw (with the tool you used) with the other hand. Now one hand is still holding/fixating the adjustment screw and one hand is free and there for can be used to tightening the locknut?
Well, at least that was my plan :D
Btw, should the cylinder head cover gasket be replaced? Only 30k miles here (2004).
It’s been so long you might as well just want to do it considering the age. The issue with holding the screw in place while doing all this is that you have to keep it exactly in the right position. It takes such minute movements to adjust the clearance that I wouldn’t recommend it. If you can do it successfully go for it.
Do you have to use that special adjustment tool or would a stand alone 10mm wrench and flat head screwdriver work just as well?
I would highly recommend the tool. Using a flathead and a 10mm wrench is very difficult in comparison.
DIYGuys i see. Unfortunately i don't have access to that tool here locally so I'll have to use separate ones. As long as it doesn't cause any trouble to adjustment? I have to check the clearances at the very least today. Need to see if any of the valves need adjustment that could smooth out the idle state
It won’t cause trouble. It will just be really hard lol.
RolanTHUNDER i was a master tech for years and have adjusted many valves. You can do it w/o the special tool and ive never needed one. Sometimes the screw head can be really tight and thats when the special tool is helpful. It's not necessary though
Tried valve adjustment on my 2003 51k miles using .008 intake and .010 exhaust. The car seems very noisy now. I may have set the valves too loose. :(
+MrRevto9k were your valves tighter or looser before you adjusted them? If they were tight, looser valves will make more noise. You can always double check your measurements after adjustment.
DIYGuys no I think valves were good as the car wasn't noisy. I just wanted to do just to make sure everything was good. I was afraid of making the valves too tight and I might have set them too loose.
+MrRevto9k It could take a few tries to get the hang of things. Check it out again and let me know how it goes.
@@MrRevto9k tight valves are often quiet. The fact that the valves are quiet does not necessarily mean the valves are gaped correctly.
Tappy valves are happy valves
What does this solve?
It’s regular maintenance. It solves not destroying your cylinder valves
Is it helpful to remove the heat shield to get easier access to the exhaust valves?
It is, however I’m not sure it’s worth the pain of removing the heat shield. The last bolt on the heat shield is quite difficult to reach.
@@DIYGuysvideo I think I am going to give it a try this time. I can visualize that back bolt and I think with a stubby ratchet I can get to it. All you have to do is loosen it a bit - don't need to remove it - and then tighten it again when done. The other bolts are easy to get to. I think it will give me a better angle with the feeler gauges and hence a better feel for the settings. Maybe better accuracy.
I remove the heatshield in my transmission removal video. I used a ratcheting wrench to slowly loosen the bolt.
@@DIYGuysvideo Is that a "flex head" ratcheting wrench? Is the flex helpful?
Yes it was helpful
does the valves make a slight nocking nose when they need adjusting (help)
+ally hard question to answer. Loose valves will be loud and tight valves will be quieter. Knocking noises can come from one of the adjustment nuts being loose or it could be a cylinder wall issue.
Diff oil seals on s2000
+Mario Medrano Hmm haven't done that one before. You mean when diff oil leaks from the driveshaft?
DIYGuys it uses 2 gaskets on the rear diff were the axles go into the diff i need to do it but need some guidance
+Mario Medrano honestly I likely won't do t since I don't have the issue myself
DIYGuys thats alright well if you come across a link to a forum or any help that may help me and let me know that would be cool I'd appreciate it
Calm down speed racer