Hi Thank you for the insight into the diaphragm! I spent an hour trying to work out what it was? The new seal wasnt seated correctly as in your video thanks again saved me some time and money :)
Well spotted, my daughter has the same system which has been constantly running. Checked the valve loads of times, cleaned it, took it out put it back in, still the same problem. I’m gonna check the rubber is under the plastic to see if that’s the problem, thanks for the advice.
Thank you sir!!!! spent 20mins looking on the floor for missing part that wasn't even there, even bought mine from screw fix!!! fantastic tip thanks again.
Changed mine due to slow fill. Fills fine but now after its full the white round section starts pumping what sounds like air and carrys on filling up going into the bowl...any suggestions
Thank you for this. Had the same issue, refitting the valve a few times but it keeps overflowing, the difference being I had to climb into the attic each time to shut off the water and then again to turn back on to test the valve. Saw my diaphragm was exactly as you described, so I did what you suggest and it worked like a charm.
I had a problem the water wouldn't stop filling after replacing the old diaphragm but I inserted the old plastic insert in the new diaphragm, And that fixed the issue.
I changed the membrane and now it fills very well, but when the valve starts to close, there is a series of 10-20 water shocks with a total duration of 5-10 seconds. That is, the valve opens and closes and all this happens very quickly. What is the problem?
This is the exact problem I had. I just wish I’d found your video 2 hours earlier! Went from a slow fill to not stopping after fitting a new diaphragm. Refitted it multiple times then in a last ditch attempt wondered if the rubber should be under the plastic point? Tried it and it worked like a charm! The good news is that I’ve burned loads of calories today running up and down the stairs turning the water on and off every time it didn’t work! 😂
I also had big problems with the system not stopping to fill. I suggest that when repacing the black washer you also replace the one in the top of the inlet because mine caused water hammer (Lots of banging in the pipe like a hammer). It is also important to make sure the small nib on the mount for the black washer engages inthe housing when tightening up the nut that holds the black rubber in.
I changed the membrane and now it fills very well, but when the valve starts to close, there is a series of 10-20 water shocks with a total duration of 5-10 seconds. That is, the valve opens and closes and all this happens very quickly. What is the problem?
THat is exactly what happened to me. Its called water hammer. You need to replace the washer under the white plastic cap on the top of the vertical pipe . It just flips off if you get a screw driver under it and it then snaps back on. Hope it works for you
@@peterwebster6257 Do you mean the washer like in this video? th-cam.com/video/QxEncKO4364/w-d-xo.htmlsi=x4FsN9dw7aI6QqjW if yes, then I have a slightly different structure, the company of my locking system is alca plast, there is no such washer, so the problem is different. I think the material of the new diaphragm is silicone, but the original had rubber. Perhaps the new diaphragm is too soft. or the hole in the diaphragm needs to be changed, I have such thoughts, but it can actually cause harm
Bang on ! I had the exact same problem. I do wonder sometimes whether we have simply complicated the whole issue of cistern filling. The old idea of a ballcock and valve was so simple and the number of parts involved so few compared to the collection of plastic, metal and rubber bits now used...
First class video that solved a simple problem that had confused me. Surely this should be checked by quality control. At the cost of such small diaphragm it is bad that it won't work straight out of the package. Thanks again.
I bought a couple of replacement valves and had the same issue, your video and tip pointed me in the right direction. I replaced the rubber on the original nylon part and hey presto it worked. THANKS, you saved me changing the whole filling valve.
A helpful video, thanks. My Screwfix replacement valve had this problem, but I still had multiple trips up and down the stairs to turn the water on/off as it still didn't work. I eventually found the small hole in the plastic fitting - closed by the arm from the float - was closed by limescale and needed clearing with a pin. Worth checking if you're having problems.
Brilliant!! As other people on here, after a frustrating 2 hours removing/refitting the diaphragm and head scratching, found your vid, found my new washer wasn't seated correctly as you showed, re-seated it and all sorted! Thanks for taking the time and trouble to upload!
Very useful clue! I had exactly the same issue. Changed diaphragm and valve wouldn't cut off. Small adjustment of the rubber, exactly as you described & shown solved the problem immediately! I was lucky I came across your video quickly - spared me a lot of stress ! Ufff ! Thank you so much !!!
Well I tried it, but it didn't work. This cistern drives me nuts because it defies logic. When it was working OK, it filled, overflowed into the bowl for about half a minute and then stopped. Weird. I could understand it stopping before overflowing. I could understand it overflowing continuously and not stopping at all if the valve was faulty. What I can't understand is it overflowing for half a minute then stopping. It gets worse. Now it doesn't stop overflowing, and there is nothing apparent amiss with the washer. Any more ideas? Thanks!
Good info, I've got one of these and noticed that. I have the same Siamp valve and flush mechanism also. Funny thing about the inlet valve - I've replaced mine about 2 years ago as it wasn't shutting off - got 3 replacements from Screwfix - last week I had the same problem so took the button and cistern lid off and fitted a new one, it didn't work every time so 2 days later put the remaining one in and it was the same - I did a bit of messing about and realised that if I screwed the button on the flush valve all the way in when the lid was off the inlet valve shut off ok, but not when it was only in a couple of turns and continued filling - ditto with the lid on and the button really tightly screwed down. I cant figure out yet how the depth of the button can affect the fill valve but its working fine - going to download the destruction sheet for both items and see if I can find an answer. Thanks for you video our kid.
You spent £5 on a washer lol it's only £8 out of Screwfix for the complete fill valve and probably easier to fit as well...but good video for anyone wanting to just change washer.
I agree Jamesy but Its much easier for me to replace the washer as I have virtually no room to get tools in underneath the cistern.I think that whoever fitted the cistern fitted both the inlet valve and flush mechanism before putting the cistern onto the loo pan.Really looking forward to when I have to replace the whole valve.Better get a doughnut washer in .
I changed the membrane and now it fills very well, but when the valve starts to close, there is a series of 10-20 water shocks with a total duration of 5-10 seconds. That is, the valve opens and closes and all this happens very quickly. What is the problem?
Thanks - this has saved me hours of buggering about!
Thank you so much! Spent ages taking it out and putting it back to no avail. Watched your video and fixed it in 5 minutes!
Useful info, thanks.
Hi
Thank you for the insight into the diaphragm! I spent an hour trying to work out what it was? The new seal wasnt seated correctly as in your video
thanks again saved me some time and money :)
Thank you.
Spent the last 4 hours trying to work out what was wrong and your tip fixed it straight away.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Well spotted, my daughter has the same system which has been constantly running. Checked the valve loads of times, cleaned it, took it out put it back in, still the same problem. I’m gonna check the rubber is under the plastic to see if that’s the problem, thanks for the advice.
Thanks for the information as like yourself I’ve had this apart 5 times now 😂you just saved me buying a new inlet valve
Thank you sir!!!! spent 20mins looking on the floor for missing part that wasn't even there, even bought mine from screw fix!!! fantastic tip thanks again.
Thank you!
Thank you so much , been struggling like others mine was exactly as you said funny how such a small thing can cause so much stress , thanks again 👌🏻
Sorted. You my man are a hero
Perfect - thanks for making this video. Exactly the problem that I had
Changed mine due to slow fill. Fills fine but now after its full the white round section starts pumping what sounds like air and carrys on filling up going into the bowl...any suggestions
It was a cheap ebay replacement part. Went to screwfix 4 quid all done
Thank you for this. Had the same issue, refitting the valve a few times but it keeps overflowing, the difference being I had to climb into the attic each time to shut off the water and then again to turn back on to test the valve. Saw my diaphragm was exactly as you described, so I did what you suggest and it worked like a charm.
Thank-you!!
I had a problem the water wouldn't stop filling after replacing the old diaphragm but I inserted the old plastic insert in the new diaphragm, And that fixed the issue.
I changed the membrane and now it fills very well, but when the valve starts to close, there is a series of 10-20 water shocks with a total duration of 5-10 seconds. That is, the valve opens and closes and all this happens very quickly. What is the problem?
This is the exact problem I had. I just wish I’d found your video 2 hours earlier! Went from a slow fill to not stopping after fitting a new diaphragm. Refitted it multiple times then in a last ditch attempt wondered if the rubber should be under the plastic point? Tried it and it worked like a charm! The good news is that I’ve burned loads of calories today running up and down the stairs turning the water on and off every time it didn’t work! 😂
I also had big problems with the system not stopping to fill. I suggest that when repacing the black washer you also replace the one in the top of the inlet because mine caused water hammer (Lots of banging in the pipe like a hammer). It is also important to make sure the small nib on the mount for the black washer engages inthe housing when tightening up the nut that holds the black rubber in.
I changed the membrane and now it fills very well, but when the valve starts to close, there is a series of 10-20 water shocks with a total duration of 5-10 seconds. That is, the valve opens and closes and all this happens very quickly. What is the problem?
THat is exactly what happened to me. Its called water hammer. You need to replace the washer under the white plastic cap on the top of the vertical pipe . It just flips off if you get a screw driver under it and it then snaps back on. Hope it works for you
@@peterwebster6257 Do you mean the washer like in this video? th-cam.com/video/QxEncKO4364/w-d-xo.htmlsi=x4FsN9dw7aI6QqjW
if yes, then I have a slightly different structure, the company of my locking system is alca plast, there is no such washer, so the problem is different. I think the material of the new diaphragm is silicone, but the original had rubber. Perhaps the new diaphragm is too soft. or the hole in the diaphragm needs to be changed, I have such thoughts, but it can actually cause harm
Bang on ! I had the exact same problem. I do wonder sometimes whether we have simply complicated the whole issue of cistern filling. The old idea of a ballcock and valve was so simple and the number of parts involved so few compared to the collection of plastic, metal and rubber bits now used...
First class video that solved a simple problem that had confused me. Surely this should be checked by quality control. At the cost of such small diaphragm it is bad that it won't work straight out of the package. Thanks again.
I bought a couple of replacement valves and had the same issue, your video and tip pointed me in the right direction. I replaced the rubber on the original nylon part and hey presto it worked. THANKS, you saved me changing the whole filling valve.
A helpful video, thanks. My Screwfix replacement valve had this problem, but I still had multiple trips up and down the stairs to turn the water on/off as it still didn't work. I eventually found the small hole in the plastic fitting - closed by the arm from the float - was closed by limescale and needed clearing with a pin.
Worth checking if you're having problems.
This is exactly what was wrong with mine. Thank you very much for your video!
Brilliant!! As other people on here, after a frustrating 2 hours removing/refitting the diaphragm and head scratching, found your vid, found my new washer wasn't seated correctly as you showed, re-seated it and all sorted! Thanks for taking the time and trouble to upload!
High pressure water inlet can cause the same issue. Had to turn my inlet tap to half open or the water wouldn't stop.
Very useful clue! I had exactly the same issue. Changed diaphragm and valve wouldn't cut off. Small adjustment of the rubber, exactly as you described & shown solved the problem immediately! I was lucky I came across your video quickly - spared me a lot of stress ! Ufff ! Thank you so much !!!
Absolute genius. We were having the same problem before coming across your video. We were ready to give up. Tried this and it worked. Thanks
It’s been said before …. Absolute genius
An absolute life saver! I too couldn’t figure out why cistern wouldn’t stop filling. Top man!😊
Absolute legend, thank you.
Well I tried it, but it didn't work. This cistern drives me nuts because it defies logic. When it was working OK, it filled, overflowed into the bowl for about half a minute and then stopped. Weird. I could understand it stopping before overflowing. I could understand it overflowing continuously and not stopping at all if the valve was faulty. What I can't understand is it overflowing for half a minute then stopping. It gets worse. Now it doesn't stop overflowing, and there is nothing apparent amiss with the washer. Any more ideas? Thanks!
See my comment above Ken - this mechanism is weird!
Good info, I've got one of these and noticed that. I have the same Siamp valve and flush mechanism also.
Funny thing about the inlet valve - I've replaced mine about 2 years ago as it wasn't shutting off - got 3 replacements from Screwfix - last week I had the same problem so took the button and cistern lid off and fitted a new one, it didn't work every time so 2 days later put the remaining one in and it was the same - I did a bit of messing about and realised that if I screwed the button on the flush valve all the way in when the lid was off the inlet valve shut off ok, but not when it was only in a couple of turns and continued filling - ditto with the lid on and the button really tightly screwed down.
I cant figure out yet how the depth of the button can affect the fill valve but its working fine - going to download the destruction sheet for both items and see if I can find an answer.
Thanks for you video our kid.
try turning the incoming water pressure down. I set my incoming water tap to half open and the constant filling issue stopped.
You spent £5 on a washer lol it's only £8 out of Screwfix for the complete fill valve and probably easier to fit as well...but good video for anyone wanting to just change washer.
I agree Jamesy but Its much easier for me to replace the washer as I have virtually no room to get tools in underneath the cistern.I think that whoever fitted the cistern fitted both the inlet valve and flush mechanism before putting the cistern onto the loo pan.Really looking forward to when I have to replace the whole valve.Better get a doughnut washer in .
I changed the membrane and now it fills very well, but when the valve starts to close, there is a series of 10-20 water shocks with a total duration of 5-10 seconds. That is, the valve opens and closes and all this happens very quickly. What is the problem?