I work in the city and come home on the weekends. 2 hour drive to work and 2 home is to much everyday. I have access to land near my work. Thank you for showing us how to start our build for my new tiny home on wheels to save rent during the week!
Gee whiz Jacqueline, this comment made me smile big! Thank you for dropping a line, I am glad the video helped. I can’t imagine driving 4 hours a day to work, yikes! I hope you get your tiny home up and running ASAP! The thing I found when building ours is no matter what, just keep moving forward. Even a little progress, is still progress. Best!
And for the guy that’s making this tiny home if your axles are not flipped, I would recommend flipping your axles because then you wouldn’t need to weld any bump stops on because basically you would be lifting your ride hide up by at least 2 inches just food for thought and it will help you be able to move your tiny home wherever you wantthen it wouldn’t bottom out in certain spots
It is nice to see someone building with the iron eagle pad trailers. I have my 28 foot iron eagle pad waiting at the storage unit. I live in a apartment and have to find another build site. I have had 2 spots fall threw covid hasn't made things any easier. Can't wait to see how this build comes togeather. Good luck. Thank you for your time.
Ha ha feels like home but is the seat heated bro..?? Nice job Brian, coming on nicely.. Looking forward to part 4 and it's a big thumbs up for the new rims! 🤘🔥
It's a sad scene below the bum. No heat! I wonder about an aftermarket heated seat? Thanks for the thumbs up on the rims, it's much appreciated!!! Travel on brother!!!
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate that Grazyna! I am currently editing another tiny home video update, it is getting close to finished. Sooo exciting! Best to you and yours.
LVL blocks, haha, nice. Dang, this is the most superior foundation I’ve seen to a tiny house yet. Yes, I am modeling my 16’ pad with your foundation specs. I am going to mod a pex hydronic infloor heat system with this water heater too. Also, not to get ahead of myself,I’ve designed vaulted barrel rafters with a crotch to give the radiused roof practicality and character. Look forward to your next videos.
Liked and subscribed. Thanks for sharing your tiny house build adventure. Many more people are going to want to go tiny in the future and reduce their living costs & resource footprint. Seeing how it's done is very helpful.
Have you had any problems with sewer gases coming up from the shower p-trap? Ive recently learned the way you have your trap set up, its more of an s shape and can drain too much water leaving entry into the house... Ive also learned that there is supposed to be a section of straight pipe the length of double the size of the diameter of pipe used directly after the trap for proper use.
Hi Jack, i have not had any issues with sewer gas in the shower p trap. Not sure where the straight section should go, but i do have 6” of pipe straight down out of the trap. I feel like what you are talking about would travel in a horizontal plane though? Thank you for the question!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Yes! a horizontal plane is what I was getting at, only because the s shape of your shower drain from what I've heard might get sucked dry... But if youve had no problems, I could be wrong! Love your vids keep up the good work!
@@jackmaclennan1561 Gotcha! I did install a vent cap on the drain line that services the bathroom and kitchen sink, and the only other drain apart from the shower is the urine trap from the composting toilet. If it was 3 or 4” flush toilet abs line we might have a different story, pulling water from the shower trap. But all of the drain water is pretty slow to leave the structure, so I think it should be good to go! Thanks for the question and kind words!
Hi Brian the P-Trap from the Toilet you raised the drain about 3 inches. Shouldn't it be lowered for the Pee to flow out instead of Accumulating in the Trap & smelling? Just a thought. Keep up the Nice Work. Cheers Grace!
Hi Grace, it is suggested to pour a cup or more of water into the urine port between uses. My thought was if this practice is followed, odors would not be an issue. Still haven’t used the toilet, but soon I will know how it works out and I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great comment!
It seems to me that one of the issues with this design is; If the water heater is not ignited (when there is no water demand), then the cold air from the exterior of the house can come in through the air intake hole, into the water heater case (which is definitely not airtight), and thus into the living environment. On a winter day, have you noticed cold air leaching in through the water heater case?
This was also a concern of mine, which is why i went with the bottom exhaust/intake holes instead of the wall exhaust/intake. With propane heat/refrigeration/water heat this type of thing goes with the territory. I am planning on insulating the cabinet that houses the water heater to provide an extra buffer.
@@DreamKalibur Nice! Yeah, I think making holes in my tiny house is my least favorite part of the whole process. When I had the holes all plugged with rockwool and the sun was out it was so so comfortable even on a chilly day. Now that the composting toilet is plumbed and the water heater I I can tell a difference. Good luck with your project! Thanks for the great comment and observations!
For your water heater or whatever it is, that has the tailpipe going out through the wall and straight up just a pre-warning if you do not have a cap over the top of the exhaust extension that’s pointing up. It’s just gonna fill up with rainwater and stuff so do what they do for the exhaust and Wabasso heaters and diesel heaters, make sure there’s a little hole drilled at the bottom to drain out all of the unwanted water
Would you have done an under floor heating system if you had to do it over or does that require a lot of power? I suppose you could use water hose vs a resistive cable and crank the water up to ELEVEN but then you might hit a water line by accident and have to rip up the entire floor. I'm glad you went with rockwool but I might have spent money on a roll of steel screen door mesh to line the bottom over the galvanized pan or possibly treated the pan with rodent/bug poison. A light spray or dusting. Also getting the trailer sprayed with bedliner would make it quiet and more soundproof but you can always add sound deadening patches if you need it. Love projects like this!
Hey Mr. Shwaggins! Since our tiny home is off grid, in floor heat was not in the cards due to power consumption. The passive solar and small propane heater do pretty good to heat in the winter months. Especially a mild winter like this one. Thanks for reaching out! Hope you have a great new year!
Special Thanks to you big brother!!! They say you can learn anything from TH-cam. Thanks again!!
TH-cam University Baybee!!!
I work in the city and come home on the weekends. 2 hour drive to work and 2 home is to much everyday. I have access to land near my work. Thank you for showing us how to start our build for my new tiny home on wheels to save rent during the week!
Gee whiz Jacqueline, this comment made me smile big! Thank you for dropping a line, I am glad the video helped. I can’t imagine driving 4 hours a day to work, yikes! I hope you get your tiny home up and running ASAP! The thing I found when building ours is no matter what, just keep moving forward. Even a little progress, is still progress. Best!
And for the guy that’s making this tiny home if your axles are not flipped, I would recommend flipping your axles because then you wouldn’t need to weld any bump stops on because basically you would be lifting your ride hide up by at least 2 inches just food for thought and it will help you be able to move your tiny home wherever you wantthen it wouldn’t bottom out in certain spots
Nice!
It is nice to see someone building with the iron eagle pad trailers. I have my 28 foot iron eagle pad waiting at the storage unit. I live in a apartment and have to find another build site. I have had 2 spots fall threw covid hasn't made things any easier. Can't wait to see how this build comes togeather. Good luck. Thank you for your time.
Thank you for the nice comment, I sure hope you can find a site soon! Best of luck to you. 21 has been a super challenging year.
Ha ha feels like home but is the seat heated bro..?? Nice job Brian, coming on nicely.. Looking forward to part 4 and it's a big thumbs up for the new rims! 🤘🔥
It's a sad scene below the bum. No heat! I wonder about an aftermarket heated seat? Thanks for the thumbs up on the rims, it's much appreciated!!! Travel on brother!!!
Hey Brian
Thank you for sharing this very Informative Video. Nice Workmanship! Good Luck with your Build.
Cheers from Toronto, Canada.
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate that Grazyna! I am currently editing another tiny home video update, it is getting close to finished. Sooo exciting! Best to you and yours.
Great info thank you 😊
You betcha! Thanks for watching!
Great video, content and build man. Well done
Thanks bud! Have a great spring!
Great job!! Yes your new glasses are cool. FYI PrecisionTemp is always here to answer questions and assist.
Thanks Kay! Looking forward to firing up the unit and taking a nice long shower!
LVL blocks, haha, nice. Dang, this is the most superior foundation I’ve seen to a tiny house yet. Yes, I am modeling my 16’ pad with your foundation specs. I am going to mod a pex hydronic infloor heat system with this water heater too. Also, not to get ahead of myself,I’ve designed vaulted barrel rafters with a crotch to give the radiused roof practicality and character. Look forward to your next videos.
Sounds great Scott! I am putting the roof on now! Stay tuned for some video updates. It is turning out amazing! (Well at least I think so.)
Liked and subscribed. Thanks for sharing your tiny house build adventure. Many more people are going to want to go tiny in the future and reduce their living costs & resource footprint. Seeing how it's done is very helpful.
Thank you Alan. I appreciate the comment! I am so looking forward to moving in, but still a long ways to go!!! Best!
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!
Thanks JHE, I appreciate that!
Great video
Thanks much
Have you had any problems with sewer gases coming up from the shower p-trap? Ive recently learned the way you have your trap set up, its more of an s shape and can drain too much water leaving entry into the house... Ive also learned that there is supposed to be a section of straight pipe the length of double the size of the diameter of pipe used directly after the trap for proper use.
Hi Jack, i have not had any issues with sewer gas in the shower p trap. Not sure where the straight section should go, but i do have 6” of pipe straight down out of the trap. I feel like what you are talking about would travel in a horizontal plane though? Thank you for the question!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Yes! a horizontal plane is what I was getting at, only because the s shape of your shower drain from what I've heard might get sucked dry... But if youve had no problems, I could be wrong! Love your vids keep up the good work!
@@jackmaclennan1561 Gotcha! I did install a vent cap on the drain line that services the bathroom and kitchen sink, and the only other drain apart from the shower is the urine trap from the composting toilet. If it was 3 or 4” flush toilet abs line we might have a different story, pulling water from the shower trap. But all of the drain water is pretty slow to leave the structure, so I think it should be good to go! Thanks for the question and kind words!
Great job!
Thanks Buddy!
Hi Brian the P-Trap from the Toilet you raised the drain about 3 inches. Shouldn't it be lowered for the Pee to flow out instead of Accumulating in the Trap & smelling? Just a thought. Keep up the Nice Work. Cheers Grace!
Hi Grace, it is suggested to pour a cup or more of water into the urine port between uses. My thought was if this practice is followed, odors would not be an issue. Still haven’t used the toilet, but soon I will know how it works out and I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great comment!
It seems to me that one of the issues with this design is; If the water heater is not ignited (when there is no water demand), then the cold air from the exterior of the house can come in through the air intake hole, into the water heater case (which is definitely not airtight), and thus into the living environment. On a winter day, have you noticed cold air leaching in through the water heater case?
This was also a concern of mine, which is why i went with the bottom exhaust/intake holes instead of the wall exhaust/intake. With propane heat/refrigeration/water heat this type of thing goes with the territory. I am planning on insulating the cabinet that houses the water heater to provide an extra buffer.
@@BidwellCanyonFarmGood call, I think that's what I'll do also.
@@DreamKalibur Nice! Yeah, I think making holes in my tiny house is my least favorite part of the whole process. When I had the holes all plugged with rockwool and the sun was out it was so so comfortable even on a chilly day. Now that the composting toilet is plumbed and the water heater I I can tell a difference. Good luck with your project! Thanks for the great comment and observations!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Thank you. Great build, keep up the good work!
For your water heater or whatever it is, that has the tailpipe going out through the wall and straight up just a pre-warning if you do not have a cap over the top of the exhaust extension that’s pointing up. It’s just gonna fill up with rainwater and stuff so do what they do for the exhaust and Wabasso heaters and diesel heaters, make sure there’s a little hole drilled at the bottom to drain out all of the unwanted water
There is no pipe going through a wall and straight up. Not sure what you are seeing there.
Hey Brian, will your tiny be CSA certified or similar? Looks great so far!
Where's the grey water going? Like are you mounting a tank underneath somewhere or?
Hi Amber, grey water exits to a 60’ long grey water leech field. We used infiltrators 18” below the surface.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Darn I'm looking to stay mobile and off grid
Would you have done an under floor heating system if you had to do it over or does that require a lot of power? I suppose you could use water hose vs a resistive cable and crank the water up to ELEVEN but then you might hit a water line by accident and have to rip up the entire floor. I'm glad you went with rockwool but I might have spent money on a roll of steel screen door mesh to line the bottom over the galvanized pan or possibly treated the pan with rodent/bug poison. A light spray or dusting. Also getting the trailer sprayed with bedliner would make it quiet and more soundproof but you can always add sound deadening patches if you need it. Love projects like this!
Hey Mr. Shwaggins! Since our tiny home is off grid, in floor heat was not in the cards due to power consumption. The passive solar and small propane heater do pretty good to heat in the winter months. Especially a mild winter like this one. Thanks for reaching out! Hope you have a great new year!
Where are you located?
Norcal