ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
GSF600 - Carburetor Removal / Installation
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2019
- Video of install/removal of the Suzuki Bandit 600 2002's carburetors. Figure I'm pulling them on and off so often, I might as well shoot a video. This process used to take me hours, but I've gotten quicker at it. Too bad I haven't gotten quicker at finding the vacuum leak.
Update: It's fixed! • GSF600 - It's Fixed!: ...
Ran this video 5 times to get throttle cables back on what a pain in the ass! Your video was great keep going!
@@user-tt7yj4gy9w thanks man. I know it's an absolute pain and damn near impossible to show in a video. I'd probably done it ten times by the time I shot this one and I still struggle bad.
Thanks Matt. Your video was a big help. The one cable was definitely a pain to unhook and hook back. Carbs back in its place and no extra parts. Hopefully, the bike will start....
"No extra parts" is always huge! Good luck Rey.
Thanks I have 1996 600 bandit and didn't take any pictures so couldn't remember the throttle cable routing, this helped a lot!
Glad it was useful. Cheers.
just a short note on reinstalling the carbs into those boots on the engine, I used a flat piece of steel against the back of the carbs, chunks of wood might work too, its tough to get the right force to seat them otherwise. Matt...thanks for all the vids, watched most now in respect to the 1997 Bandit I have, GSF600...now to adjust that air fuel mixture.
Thanks for the response James. The chunk of wood sounds like it would work pretty well if you were struggling. I've also since been corrected by people smarter than me that a thin film of silicon-based grease like red rubber grease (something without petroleum distillates that could swell the rubber) will aid in seating the carburetors.
Hope you and your Bandit are doing well and that you get the adjustments screws set right! I feel like I should probably redo some of the older videos since I've learned so much from comments like yours, forums, and my own experiences. Someday.
Bro small tip after you have heated them up the middle two are the ones you want to line up ,hold the cards at the middle as you say it helps having the wood .and a freind but if you're on youte own push then cards in to the middle two boots till they sit ,outerlip then .push from the bottom up ,not straight frwrd this is where everyone goes wrong. If you do it you'll notice how easy they go on and there in full .the cable jam the acuaitor with screw driver ,note before they even go on bike open the loops for the cables frst .its the simplest way with out having to use a pick etc .also the hard one bend the cable frst so you ain't trying to line it up to get it on .peace ,
Great video thanks, it's good to know the gotcha's in advance!
It's crazy when you watch someone work that's been around a specific type of bike for many years... the tasks that take me hours or days take them seconds or minutes. I actually saw a trick to seating this specific carburetor that looks much easier than what I do--I want to try it out the next time I need to seat this carburetor.
Hey great video. I feel your pain. I have a GSF600SX 1999, I too couldn’t find the vacuum leak, so, after much swearing and one smashed PS4, I’ve sent to carbs to be professionally rebuilt. I’ve bought new boots and I’m also thinking to replace to rubbers off the air box too. Such a freaking pain to get this bike running smoothly. I hope yours got sorted. Cheers.
You smash things in frustration too!? Actually I've gotten a lot better at slowing down and breathing.. but every once in a while..
Hope you're able to track down your issues soon. It's frustrating during the process but usually worth it in the end. Agreed on the difficulty to get this specific engine and carburetor dialed in.
Great video, really appreciate it!
Thanks Christian--glad to hear it.
Tip for that PITA throttle cable. Unhook everything else. Once you do, there is enough slack to move the entire carb assembly (with throttle cable still attached) out the port side of the frame. Then you can easily access that cable. JIS tip is a good one. Once I got mine out I found the previous owner had completely stripped one of the bolts.
I think another good tip would be to grown longer, thinner fingers, hah. I'm guessing you found stripped screws on the float bowls? I don't think I've ever touched a carb that didn't have at least a few stripped. I've started putting a tiny bit of antisieze on those. I know other people replace them with allens, but I haven't started doing that yet.
Actually, when you say unattach everything... Do you mean remove the throttle cable from the throttle on the handlebars? Or just make sure the choke, throttle position sensor, fuel lines, etc are all removed prior to attempting the throttle?
@@matttriestodothings yes, one the float bowls. i'm going to get replacement allen or hex bolts. it't not worth the aggravation.
@@matttriestodothings sorry, should have been more clear. basically do everything you do in your video except fight with that last throttle cable. at that point, the whole assembly can be moved (with cable still attached) out of the frame which gives you easy access to the cable. you don't need to do anything at the bars.
@@jacobsnow3688 exactly right, I’ve done this several times myself.
Great video - thanks for posting (genuinely!). When you mentioned "some people say not to grease these" for the boots.... I'd be one of those people. The grease will swell/perish the boots eventually and leave you with a leak which as you know... can be a pain to find :-). Just wanted to let you know you can get rubber friendly grease (I use red rubber grease but there may be others, silicone? etc.??). A tub of red grease will last you ages - handy for anywhere there's rubber really, calipers etc.. Also your point on the JIS screws is well made (and true!) so if you like tinkering with your carbs its maybe worth replacing some of those screws with stainless hex heads or allen heads.... saves some of the pain the next time around!
Tomas--thanks for the thoughtful reply. Trust me, I'm willing to take all the advice and criticism I can get! I'm curious about which "red grease" you're referring to, so I can pick some up and add it to the arsenal. Admittedly, lubricants are a category of product I could use a lot more education and practice with. I'm probably way too liberal in my application count with Valvoline Full Synthetic grease.
I usually swap screws with hex head or allen key whenever possible if I know it's a part that's going to be messed with a lot. Sometimes, it's just not possible though. Stripped screw heads just suck the life out of living though! Anyway, give me a rubber-friendly grease recommendation, and I'll start using my thinking cap more before slathering everything in Valvoline :-P
oh--I should mention in case anybody else reads my reply and decides to grease their boots... I only greased them as a last ditch effort to discover a quick fix to a vacuum leak. I ended up replacing all four intake boots with new ones--no grease touched those.
@@matttriestodothings This is the tub I've been using the last while.... last me ages but I just mess about/diy. www.flatdoguk.com/castrol-red-rubber-grease~2017 - you can buy it anywhere, I just googled it and that was the first hit with a picture of the tub I have. "Stripped screw heads just suck the life out of living though!" - yuuuuuuuup!
Seen another channel use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on O rings
@@SAM-zt2uy Your not really supposed to use vaseline or other petroleum products on rubber or neoprene objects as it can deteriorate the rubber or neoprene (quite quickly). The correct lube to use is either a silicone based lubricant or the dedicated red rubber grease I listed above.
Hi mike here from the uk, your 600s bandit horn can you tell me where its connected to, or show me, i want to move mine you see off the forks, hope you can help cheers mike
Very helpful cheers man
Glad it was useful. Wish I could have kept from bumping the camera and making the sound awful, but... can't undo it now.
Thanks for video
No problem, Ginger Bread Man
this is really helpful thanks mate i'm about to take my out and clean them! thanks again
Absolutely, I appreciate the feedback! Wish I could have eliminated some of the camera noise from the tripod bumping against the bike's frame, but... live and learn. Good luck with the servicing!
Something I didn't know at the time of the video that can be a source of confusion--there is an orange electrical connector seemingly tied together with the throttle position sensor. It seems like there's nowhere for it to go... that's because there likely isn't! It's on there for carburetor heater elements that were only on UK versions of the Bandit (as far as I can tell).
@@matttriestodothings i just removed mine and cleaned them. so far so good, unfortunately all the gaskets need replacing, was hoping i could just put it all back together. what a pain! ah well, like you say, live and learn! hopefully wont be too long til this bike is up and running.
@@tobeahcatalyst4473 Darn--well, gaskets go with time, and you'll feel a lot better about it once you've buttoned up with new rubber. Just two words of advice while the carburetor is off the bike:
1. The little gaskets the sit between the pilot jet washer and the carburetor can be somewhat of a pain to pull out. If you're planning on replacing them, it's a little easier since you can be less cautious. I use a 35° pick to pull them out. Make sure the old ones are out before you put new ones in! Its easy to forget about them.
2. Get a notepad and pen. Figure out exactly where your Air/Fuel mixture screws are set before pulling out the old ones, and write it down. Even if you're not replacing them--it'll be good to know, especially if the bike is running well. You can turn them right back to where they were. If you are planning to adjust them at all, it's much easier and accurate to do while the carburetor is off of the bike. It's possible to do it while on, it's just not easy and you burn your hands, lol.
Good luck.
Sorry, when I said "gasket" I meant O-ring. The A/F screw assembly goes: Screw, spring, metal washer, o-ring. The little metal washer and o-ring can be easy to forget about in the bore.
Just yesterday I was close to losing my mind doing that. 90 degree pik. got it
Unfortunately, you can still run into a situation where the cable gets a bad "history" to it, where it wants to curl away. To give yourself two free hands, sometimes I'll take a zip tie and tie the butterflies open, so I don't have to waste one hand holding them open. Hope you're able to get it (or got it!).
Helped someone out on their 1997, and their cable was way more difficult than mine because of the way the cable had aged.
Those empty holes by the side carburetors, in the middle of the ones on the side, are they suppose to have something on them?
I'm not certain which you're talking about. Each carburetor has a brass nipple on it that is a vacuum port. However, I think you may be talking about the black pipes with a vent to atmosphere. Those are vents to allow air into the carburetor bowls as fuel is pulled through. They should have vent hoses connected to them and routed away from the carburetor. I don't have them on in this video.
Not sure how you can get whole assembly out of frame while still attached at handlebars JACOB ?
I don't think I have the ability to do as he's suggesting--there's not enough throttle cable for me to remove the assembly with them still attached to the carburetor rack. Or I'm missing something.
My problem is getting the airbox back on, bottom of the carbs arnt in the air box boots so now its pulling to much air and stalls, any tips on this? I have an 01 bandit 600
Interesting--are the boots for the air filter deformed and/or hard and cracking? I never had too many issues with the air filter housing luckily.
You may try to put a little red rubber grease on them to help them slide over the carburetors (if getting them over is the issue). The red rubber grease won't swell or damage the rubber like other petroleum-derived greases. If the issue is with the boots *staying* connected due to slipping off though, the grease would actually make that worse.
@@matttriestodothings just can't get the dam things on, still squishy no cracks, if I get one side on I can get the other side on which is frustrating
Where is going impulsator cable green yellow pls help
Use wd40 or starting fluid and spray it into the vacuum lines until you find a consistent idle change and that spot is your vacuum leak
Unterdruckschlauch zum Benzinhahn ?
Do you know how many turn out the pilot air screw mixture ?
On this one I am 2 turns out. Stock is 1+7/8.
@@matttriestodothings thanks
did mine last week , getting throttle cables on and off is a bitch !!
Getting it off is a pain... getting it ON is the bitch. Especially if the wire has some history to it and lays off to the side a bit. It gets easier with practice, and you learn little tricks, but it's never really easy. If I'm really losing my mind I'll zip tie the butterflies open over the sync screw, so I don't have to hold it open with one hand.
Did this solve your air leak?
I did. I ended up replacing all the intake boots. I don't believe that was the ultimate issue that was plaguing me on this, but I ended up dropping on (4) new intake boots to rule it out as a variable.
The bike is getting primed and ready for 1300 miles around the great lakes next saturday. If it doesn't make it off the ferry, we're pushing it into the lake. Seems to be running well though.
Hi I have the exact same bike. The hard throttle cable off the carb took me hours! I managed to do it by wedging metal into the spring bit so I could use two hands. Anyway I cleaned out my carbs, put them back tried to start her but nothing. Plus petrol is leaking out from carbs. Any advice? Cheers
@@samndoro6852 Hey Sam--So I actually rode out an hour today to meet up with another TH-cam user that was having issues with his 1997 Bandit. When I got there it wasn't running, but when I left it was going decent--he's still got some tuning work to do.
In regards to the throttle cable--They can be a total bitch to get back in if the cable has a "history" to it and is bent in weird directions. If the cable is so kinked that it takes hours to get in, I almost think it's worth buying a replacement. 1 for your sanity and 2 because the kinked cable may snap soon and leave you stranded. Yep, you can wedge a screwdriver in there. You can also zip tie the central synchronizer screw with the butterflies opened--we did this today.
Where's the petrol leaking out? Since these don't have a traditional overflow, it's tough to tell where it might be coming out. Obvious thing is to check that you tightened the bowl drain bolts completely. Second is that your float heights are within spec and not getting hung up. Give me a couople more clues, and I might be more useful.
I'm no genius but I just removed the carbs in ten mins in the pitch black. All you have to do once slackened off the throttle cables is open the throttle fully... the cables practically fall off, just need a sight sideways tug when the cable aligns with the gap.
If the cables end wears and gets a history that cocks it off center, it can be difficult to get it back into the butterfly actuator. Getting them out isn't too much of an issue though. Coincidently just got back from home depot since I broke my 90° pick about a month ago.
What i need to see is how the throttle cable is attached to the small cam part of the linkage, losing my mind!!!!
Unfortunately I don't have the bike anymore, so I can't get you a good shot. This is the best I've got.
Hi.Maybe u Can help!!
Need new carburator For Suzuki Bandit GSF 400 1991.year
U can sugest some good e-shop maybe?
Thank you.
I think you're going to be stuck looking on EBay. I'm not sure where else I'd even try to begin finding a set of 400 carbs.
Set an alert on EBay for "GSF Bandit 400 Carburetors"
Yeah mines not sliding off that easy 😅
Gotta bring out that hammer! Don't actually do that.
Sometimes heating the insulator boots up with a hair dryer helps. Be careful with sparks tho. Don't want it to come off *that* fast.
Where in the UK are you. The throttle cable is a bitch if your not far il pay you to whip the throttle cable off for me hahaha good video mate
hahaha they really are a bitch. I've actually seen a technique that might simplify it quite a bit by actually pulling the rack up through the frame and twisting it in after setting the cables... I've only seen pictures though. If I manage to figure that out and it's easier, I'll update this.
Unfortunately, I'm a few miles and an ocean away from the UK over in the colonies. Get yourself a 90 degree pick, take a breather, and then... get lucky!
@@matttriestodothings your not gonna believe it but having a breather watching your vid. Ive managed to do it with just my little fingers. However the clutch cable on mine goes through the carb housing.. I'm assuming this isn't the right way of running it. Am I okay to just unscrew it and pull it through and screw it back in later?? Cheers dude. Will be getting a 90 pic for the re install lol
@@dannyscott7728 not at my house now, but I can get back to you on where it should be when I can check my pictures.
@@matttriestodothings someone has sent me a pic of how it should be. Which is at the back of the housing. Mine is currently running through it. So I can't pull it out without disconnecting the clutch cable. Am I okay just unscrewing it from the housing rather than at the lever do you know?
@@dannyscott7728 Interesting. Now you've got me thinking. I've got it run on the outside of carb 1, but I could see the argument for putting it between 1-2 on the air filter side for a cleaner look. It'd be trickier, but I think it'd work and potentially how it was from factory (I'm not an expert). But it works fine in the position I have it and is easier to work with if you're taking it on/off often.
i.imgur.com/HAhLHPK.jpg
If yours is actually through the carburetor rack.. yea, you'll need to disconnect one end. I'd probably argue the control lever is easier to disconnect. But you should be alright to go with either side.
Good vid bud, well done I know how much of a bitch it is 👍
On my 12 the leak ended up being the petcock
I never had good luck with the OEM one on the Bandit. I ended up replacing it with a Yamaha manual shutoff one.
@@matttriestodothings What model Yamaha? Ta
@@olafjensen4508 Yamaha 2NV-24500-02