Thanks so much for all these videos Randy. It's given me a lot of confidence in doing things I otherwise wouldn't try. As you say in this video, sometimes you just got to wiggle it a little bit.
@@FiveFiveGarage - Almost a year later but i finally got my HPFP internals, autotech but i'm sure 95% of the install info i need will be on this video(just coz different internals). So thank you again. :)
@@FiveFiveGarage - My pump was grimey but then again, it hadn't been opened before so that is expected, cleaned mine as best i could and now after the install my pressure is way up on avg vs the stock internals.
protip- if pressure in fuel line, pull fuel pump relay from fusebox and start car, let run till it dies (will take longer than you think) but it will significantly reduce the size of mess though there will still be some pressure and fuel in the line, it wont be NEAR as bad. (tip w/i a tip.. pre-clench butt cheeks! as someone whos done many MANY BG A/F cleanings on these engines, its still a surprise as to when the line will "pop" off)
If your car is not newer, or is from up north I would recommend using PB Blaster, Kroil, or Seafoam Deep creep on the threads for the fuel line at least a day before you do this, and then using Line Wrenches and not open end wrenches. You can get a set of line wrenches from Harbor freight for like 20$ and its still gonna have more grip, and less chance of rounding off these fuel lines than a Snapon Flank Drive+ Open end. Ask me how I know.
The fuel pump internals + spring were stuck in the sleeve on mine, so I had to get a tap and hit it a few times on the opposite end to pull the hat/retainer and spring out.
Now you said tap the tappet down flush when putting the hpfp together but it doesn't go flush it just seats down far enough over the pinrod for it not to come off. It still can be moved and wiggled but won't come off. I just did this installation yesterday. So am I wrong? Should it be flushed and the tappet not move at all? Thank you for this video.
When you use the installation tool, the tappet needs to be flush in the tool for it to be installed properly. It sounds like you got it on there correctly, if not the tappet would come off.
If you are going to add a downpipe you need to do fuel pump internals FIRST. What these do is allow the high pressure fuel pump to supply enough fuel to support mods. If you add a downpipe without them, the engine will run lean, and lean under boost = blown motor. HPFP internals is always the first recommended mod because of this. It will enable you to safely add and support bolt-ons all they way up to ~ 380 - 400-ish HP.
Yes. Stock map is not going to be able to keep up with the improved airflow with the turbo back exhaust, even with upgraded HPFP. Get a tune, you will be able to take advantage of that increased exhaust flow since the stock downpipe restriction is gone (faster spool up, turbo becomes more responsive, more boost)!
Why the upgrade? The stock HPFP can't keep up when you add mods and turn up the boost. If you are going to add performance parts, this is the #1 must do mod to keep from blowing the engine.
No the extra fuel you had in the cap, I read corksport instructions (briefly) and watched ur video, didnt see you use the extra fuel in the cap, was wondering what is was for. Haven't bought the internals yet
Ahh I got what you mean now! That was from when I opened the pump and the excess fuel came out and I had that there in case I needed to prime the pump. You won't need it. I had to go back and rewatch the video to see what you meant 😂
Which air intake? If you are using a larger than stock (I am talking 3" or more) MAF? Yes. If not, No. HPFP doesn't need a tune. Cat-back doesn't need a tune.
Its easier to apply torque on the larger nut. I didn't want to round off the 17mm because that would require fuel line replacement. If you are rounding that 19 mm, try a flare wrench.
I just got mine install with the accessport i install the stage 1 sf map what afr do i suppose to have lol tbh i think i feel it less torque how do i know if the its receving enough fuel and its safe
On your accessport, add the gauge for HPFP activation pressure. Go for a drive, when you get into boost it should go over 1600 psi. If it does your good. Your AFR should dip into 11s -12s in boost, 14.7 @ idle, and 15s in cruise situations. If you get into boost and your AFR is higher than 14 you have a boost leak somewhere and the car is leaning out.
No, the car didn't run rich after installation. As for the fuel trims, I can't tell you what they were then as the car was bone stock when I did this mod but LTFT should be in the 7-10 range for a stock car with HPFP after installation. If you have an intake or other air flow modifications it will vary as well.
Do you guys think that installing these upgraded internals is worth it on a MS3 with 160K miles already? All I have right now it’s a K&N short ram intake. Will pushing the engine even harder just not worth it?
I let the pump cycle a few times (turning the ignition on and off a couple times without starting) to get some fuel to the pump, it then started right up.
Do it come with an Accessport? If it did you can check HPFP activation pressure and if it is over 1600 psi in boost, then it has upgraded internals. There really isn't a way to tell other than opening the pump. If you are going to mod your car further, I highly recommend you go ahead and upgrade the fuel pump internals.
Do you have a code scanner? That will let you know what caused the CEL. Double check everything you did and make sure your couplers on the intake are tight. Might be a boost leak.
This video was actually the 2nd video I did after I got the accessport, but do to some audio issues, I had to re-upload it. Thanks for reminding me that I probably need to put this in the right order in the playlist!
Generally you can run bolt ons like exhaust (minus downpipe) and full turbo inlet before needing to do fuel pump internals. My car has been this way for months and I haven't had any problems to date. In any case I plan to do an etune within the coming months with or without hpfp internals and a downpipe. Better safe than sorry.
@@anonguy6453 It depends on the generation. Gen 1's can get away with a couple mods, Gen 2's will start to run lean. After seeing so many of these cars run into issues of going lean and ZZB, I recommend to anyone starting with the fuel pump internals first. Unless you have an accessport or a wideband installed in the car, you can't see the AFR's and there is no warning light on the dash. Its better to be safe than sorry as DISI motors aren't cheap to replace.
You mentioned your pressures were at 1600 psi. Did it run the same before you swapped the internals? Just curious as it was mentioned to me that I would need a tune for this upgrade.
Before I swapped internals my peak pressure was around 1450 psi. Now I can see them as high as 1900 psi. You do not need a tune for HPFP Internals. The pump is mechanical, the ECU does not control it.
No. You need the HPFP, since these cars are direct injected. Inline pump won't be able to raise fuel pressure to the 1600+ psi needed for DI. If you are going E85, I would recommend deciding if you are gonna run an E30 tune. Straight E85 is bad for the HPFP in these cars, Google for "black death" and Mazdaspeed 3 for more info.
![Mazdaspeed Intake valve cleaning [PART 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oU9MV9YcSOE/mqdefault.jpg)
Since I had to re-upload this vid, I went ahead and remastered the audio too!
Thanks so much for all these videos Randy. It's given me a lot of confidence in doing things I otherwise wouldn't try. As you say in this video, sometimes you just got to wiggle it a little bit.
re-install tip Put HPFP in freezer / cold temp for 15 min , ez insert !
I never thought of that! LOL Good tip!
wich part of the hpfp
Hey Randy, great vid as always, keep up the good work. You're one of the few MS3 channels out there that is top notch. Don't ever give up!
Thanks!
@@FiveFiveGarage - Almost a year later but i finally got my HPFP internals, autotech but i'm sure 95% of the install info i need will be on this video(just coz different internals). So thank you again. :)
The process is pretty much same, I am going to pull my pump off again and take a look inside, it shouldn't need a cleaning but I am curious.
@@FiveFiveGarage - My pump was grimey but then again, it hadn't been opened before so that is expected, cleaned mine as best i could and now after the install my pressure is way up on avg vs the stock internals.
Great to hear! Err...read LOL
protip- if pressure in fuel line, pull fuel pump relay from fusebox and start car, let run till it dies (will take longer than you think) but it will significantly reduce the size of mess though there will still be some pressure and fuel in the line, it wont be NEAR as bad. (tip w/i a tip.. pre-clench butt cheeks! as someone whos done many MANY BG A/F cleanings on these engines, its still a surprise as to when the line will "pop" off)
Good looking out on this one!
Great stuff Randy!
If your car is not newer, or is from up north I would recommend using PB Blaster, Kroil, or Seafoam Deep creep on the threads for the fuel line at least a day before you do this, and then using Line Wrenches and not open end wrenches.
You can get a set of line wrenches from Harbor freight for like 20$ and its still gonna have more grip, and less chance of rounding off these fuel lines than a Snapon Flank Drive+ Open end. Ask me how I know.
I have used so much PB Blaster I am thinking of investing in the company!
@@FiveFiveGarage cant go wrong there.
When i was still wrenching for a living id go through a can a week easy.
The fuel pump internals + spring were stuck in the sleeve on mine, so I had to get a tap and hit it a few times on the opposite end to pull the hat/retainer and spring out.
Now you said tap the tappet down flush when putting the hpfp together but it doesn't go flush it just seats down far enough over the pinrod for it not to come off. It still can be moved and wiggled but won't come off. I just did this installation yesterday. So am I wrong? Should it be flushed and the tappet not move at all? Thank you for this video.
When you use the installation tool, the tappet needs to be flush in the tool for it to be installed properly. It sounds like you got it on there correctly, if not the tappet would come off.
Nice video. Question, what does this do? I have a 2012 ms3 and thibking of doing this..im buying a cobb downpipe and accessport next week
If you are going to add a downpipe you need to do fuel pump internals FIRST. What these do is allow the high pressure fuel pump to supply enough fuel to support mods. If you add a downpipe without them, the engine will run lean, and lean under boost = blown motor. HPFP internals is always the first recommended mod because of this. It will enable you to safely add and support bolt-ons all they way up to ~ 380 - 400-ish HP.
Would i need a tune right after installing the new corksport hpfp, on top of having a turboback exhaust(also from corksport)??.
Yes. Stock map is not going to be able to keep up with the improved airflow with the turbo back exhaust, even with upgraded HPFP. Get a tune, you will be able to take advantage of that increased exhaust flow since the stock downpipe restriction is gone (faster spool up, turbo becomes more responsive, more boost)!
@@FiveFiveGarage thanks!
Was wondering what the extra fuel was for? Great video, I'm ready to do it
Why the upgrade? The stock HPFP can't keep up when you add mods and turn up the boost. If you are going to add performance parts, this is the #1 must do mod to keep from blowing the engine.
No the extra fuel you had in the cap, I read corksport instructions (briefly) and watched ur video, didnt see you use the extra fuel in the cap, was wondering what is was for. Haven't bought the internals yet
Ahh I got what you mean now! That was from when I opened the pump and the excess fuel came out and I had that there in case I needed to prime the pump. You won't need it. I had to go back and rewatch the video to see what you meant 😂
Great work!
Hey, I was wondering if I would need a tune after an air intake, Corksport cat back exhaust and CS hpfp
Which air intake? If you are using a larger than stock (I am talking 3" or more) MAF? Yes. If not, No. HPFP doesn't need a tune. Cat-back doesn't need a tune.
It’s a JBR short ram
Quick question if you know, would I need a tune if my only mods were hpfp, rece pipe (2nd cat delete) and cat back exhaust? Thanks!
No, you wont need a tune for those.
Thanks this is where im at
I’m smelling Fuel, after installing my fuel pump internals. Whats the most common reason? Im guessing a leak, but where exactly would the leak be at?
Check your lines. Check the hard line and make sure it doesnt have a crack in it, it can happen. I ended up replacing mine with a braided PTFE line.
Great step by step. Now….ineed to learn exactly what the hpfp does.
It takes base 40psi fuel pump pressure and increases it to over 1600 psi for direct injection.
My passengers engine mount just blow today. Very nasty. You should do it next
Did it get everywhere? I am thinking about the Damond Motorsports mounts as a project next spring.
I'm changing mine ASAP! Mine is collapsed but not completely done yet!!!
Why do you want to not move the 17mm bolt, my 19 mm one is just rounding
Its easier to apply torque on the larger nut. I didn't want to round off the 17mm because that would require fuel line replacement. If you are rounding that 19 mm, try a flare wrench.
Is there a replacement piece on that installation tool with the grove
Not that I am aware of. I got everything as a kit from Corksport.
I just got mine install with the accessport i install the stage 1 sf map what afr do i suppose to have lol tbh i think i feel it less torque how do i know if the its receving enough fuel and its safe
On your accessport, add the gauge for HPFP activation pressure. Go for a drive, when you get into boost it should go over 1600 psi. If it does your good. Your AFR should dip into 11s -12s in boost, 14.7 @ idle, and 15s in cruise situations. If you get into boost and your AFR is higher than 14 you have a boost leak somewhere and the car is leaning out.
Would i need a tune after installing just a hpfp?
No you don't need a tune after installing this.
Did this mod made your car run rich in fuel? What was the long term and short term fuel trim after the installation?
No, the car didn't run rich after installation. As for the fuel trims, I can't tell you what they were then as the car was bone stock when I did this mod but LTFT should be in the 7-10 range for a stock car with HPFP after installation. If you have an intake or other air flow modifications it will vary as well.
As always, great video. How much for the kit?
$349.99
@@FiveFiveGarage wow!. Thanks
Do you guys think that installing these upgraded internals is worth it on a MS3 with 160K miles already? All I have right now it’s a K&N short ram intake. Will pushing the engine even harder just not worth it?
Replace them. Chances are the rubber seals in the pump are in need of replacement so might as well.
before starting the car did you prime the fuel pump at all?
I let the pump cycle a few times (turning the ignition on and off a couple times without starting) to get some fuel to the pump, it then started right up.
I just bought one i need to know if mine has this ...... i only have intake and bov
Do it come with an Accessport? If it did you can check HPFP activation pressure and if it is over 1600 psi in boost, then it has upgraded internals. There really isn't a way to tell other than opening the pump. If you are going to mod your car further, I highly recommend you go ahead and upgrade the fuel pump internals.
I imagine I did something wrong if my check engine light came on. Any suggestions? First mod install.
Do you have a code scanner? That will let you know what caused the CEL. Double check everything you did and make sure your couplers on the intake are tight. Might be a boost leak.
I just did this process, after doing so my car fuel idle between 100-300 , And running real Rich , What can I do next ?
Recheck all your connections, and make sure that all of your intake clamps are tight. Make sure the MAF is connected snugly.
You already had mods on your car before you installed hpfp internals ?? Weren’t you worried about running lean and going boom?
This video was actually the 2nd video I did after I got the accessport, but do to some audio issues, I had to re-upload it. Thanks for reminding me that I probably need to put this in the right order in the playlist!
Generally you can run bolt ons like exhaust (minus downpipe) and full turbo inlet before needing to do fuel pump internals. My car has been this way for months and I haven't had any problems to date. In any case I plan to do an etune within the coming months with or without hpfp internals and a downpipe. Better safe than sorry.
@@anonguy6453 It depends on the generation. Gen 1's can get away with a couple mods, Gen 2's will start to run lean. After seeing so many of these cars run into issues of going lean and ZZB, I recommend to anyone starting with the fuel pump internals first. Unless you have an accessport or a wideband installed in the car, you can't see the AFR's and there is no warning light on the dash. Its better to be safe than sorry as DISI motors aren't cheap to replace.
Do you have to tune it when installing this
No, HPFP doesn't require a tune
The tappet is not attaching to the shaft. Followed your video and instructions, but it's not working.
It takes a couple taps and a bit of force but it will go on.
@@FiveFiveGarage it's assembled after about an hour. Not sure what was wrong.
You mentioned your pressures were at 1600 psi. Did it run the same before you swapped the internals? Just curious as it was mentioned to me that I would need a tune for this upgrade.
Before I swapped internals my peak pressure was around 1450 psi. Now I can see them as high as 1900 psi. You do not need a tune for HPFP Internals. The pump is mechanical, the ECU does not control it.
@@FiveFiveGarage thanks for the replies back. You're big help!
👍🏽👍🏽
😭 the torx screw is almost rounded and i cant get it off
Be very careful. You may have to use an e-z out 😨
Noob here could I add a fuel pump in line and remove the HPFP I am going E85.
No. You need the HPFP, since these cars are direct injected. Inline pump won't be able to raise fuel pressure to the 1600+ psi needed for DI. If you are going E85, I would recommend deciding if you are gonna run an E30 tune. Straight E85 is bad for the HPFP in these cars, Google for "black death" and Mazdaspeed 3 for more info.
U need a tune for this?
No tune needed for HPFP internals.
Well... its a E-Torx... External Torx.