I must say, i watched countless tutorials since i got my mini 4 pro. This is the only video that contains no BS and 100% of what he says makes sense. Awesome video man!
Thank you for your valuable feedback! I am really glad to hear that, this video is almost 2 years old but it seems that it has not lost its relevance - which means my efforts in making it paid off. Thanks again 🙂
This was one of the first vids I watched when I first got my drone and I couldn’t appreciate it at the time. A few weeks later and a rewatch has proved this has been one of the best tutorials I’ve needed so far. Excellent stuff no one else touches on including the in depth knowledge of the camera settings. I’ll watch this over and over till it all sinks in. Thanks for this. Great work.
Oh wow, thanks a lot for your comment. It really means a lot :) Yeah, it's a lot of information and I think when you start out, it might be too much. But I thought it would be cool to have all in one video instead of having to look all over the place :)
Holy smokes, this video is amazing, detailed, informative and extremely well structured and edited. Hope your channel grows exponentially, you deserve it.
I really really appreciate your comment, it means a lot. And while I am really happy that my channel is slowly and steadily growing, I really enjoy comments like yours way more, that let me know that the work I put into my videos really helps people. Thanks again, I appreciate it.
This is the third 'how to understand manual settings' video I've watched and was by far the best. You've mastered the art of taking something complicated and explaining it an easy to understand way. Thank you so much!
Hey Charlie, I just want to let you know that I sincerely appreciate your feedback. It's not the numbers but comments like yours and the knowledge that my efforts in making these videos have some purpose that makes me happy. Thanks again! Cheers!
@@RobertWildling Thank you, Robert, for your kind feedback. I really appreciate it and I am happy if after more than a year these videos are still useful. 🙂🤗
Was für ein gutes Video!! Ich glaube von allen Tutorials über die MP3 war dies mit Abstand das Beste, welches wirklich alle Themen in unter 20Minuten abdeckt. Tolle Arbeit - danke Dir!
@@dom.scales Thank you so much. Makes me really glad to read comments like yours - it tells me my efforts paid off and people could take a thing or two from my video. Thanks again 🙂
Your videos are great! I just bought a DJI drone and am looking to get into videography. Your channel is a huge inspiration for what I imagine myself creating
I don't really know what to say. Thank you so much for your words! I've started out only 8 months ago, so what you want to achieve is easily doable in just a few months or even weeks, depending on how much time and effort you are able to put in ☺️ YT is a great ressource for learning, and even though there will always be some contradiction between what one TH-camr or another TH-camr says... just try the things for yourself and look what works. If there's anything I can help, let me know.
Your work is absolutely stunning! Perfection in composition, colour and score. I will rewatch on the big screen later for a treat. Honestly the way you have put theses video’s together brings the YT space to a higher bar. Thank you for sharing such skill and knowledge on these lessons. Huge fan now and will share as much I can! #truetalent. You will be one of the main channels in video skills very soon! 😊
First class tutorial Tom. This deserves attention from anyone serious about improving their cinematography with a drone. I’ve got some new things to try out now!
Thank you very much for your feedback, I really appreciate it. I especially hope that the approach to getting good exposure with the right ND strength is now a little bit clearer. But as I said, if there are any questions left, don't hesitate to ask. Happy to help!
Amazing video with concentrated useful information. I have just bought the drone and being a photographer before gave me most of this knowledge but i still enjoyed every second of it😊
Setting white balance on auto and then deactivate auto, then you have correct white balance setting. 24fps is the best setting for quality because you have the most Bitrate per frame. I film all my footage in 23.976 fps and it's perfect on TH-cam. Thanks for the manual focus tipp
Your WB method is a good approach maybe. I myself wouldn't hassle because it's one more step before recording each clip and I have never found it necessary to change WB flying outside. The minor adjustments that might be necessary can be done easily in post (for me). Regarding frame rate. You're right about the highest bitrate per frame. But, and that is more important for drone videos than for any other type of video, 23.976 or 24 fps is not compatible with the standard display refresh rate of 60 Hz of smartphones, computer monitors and alike, on which TH-cam videos are mostly played on. Therefore, the display applies a 3:2 pulldown and that produces judder. I have looked into your videos and they judder as well. 24 fps would be fine if they were displayed in cinema or on any other 24fps-compatible display, but for TH-cam and other online media content, it's a rather unfortunate choice that becomes especially apparant in drone videos because of the nature of its camera movement. Unfortunately, the 24 fps myth is still lingering around. I have made a video myself about this topic: th-cam.com/video/-nGi2ecupag/w-d-xo.html Und da du eh auch deutsch kannst :) Andreas Abb hat es als einer der wenigen mittlerweile auch erkannt: th-cam.com/video/dQbo0PC4ugY/w-d-xo.html Hope you enjoy :)
@@t0mwhazzup it depends on which daytime the white balance can change a lot. Okay darf ich fragen in welchem Video von mir du dieses ruckeln gesehen hast? Mir ist es nämlich noch nicht aufgefallen dass dem so wäre, aber ich weiß was du meinst. Ich denke aber das ruckeln kommt davon wenn die fps der footage nicht mit der fps der sequence Einstellung im schnittprogramm übereinstimmt, dann gibt es dropouts das stimmt. Meine Geräte spielen aber TH-cam videos mit 24fps flüssig ab.
@@MIMCKMedia Bzgl. white balance: du hast natürlich Recht! Allerdings will ich bei einem Sonnenuntergang ja nicht, dass Dinge reinweiß aussehen, sondern sie sollen (meiner Meinung nach) ja gelblich-rötlich aussehen - insofern ändert sich bei mir bei der Aufnahme nicht viel am Weißabgleich ;) Aber das ist wohl Geschmackssache. Bzgl. Ruckeln: Sehr deutlich sieht man es im Introclip von folgendem Video, wenn du auf die Bäume im Hintergrund schaust: th-cam.com/video/tkjD26pW7ik/w-d-xo.html Dezenter (weil die Bewegung von Frame zu Frame nicht so stark ist) hier, rechts in den Palmenblättern: th-cam.com/video/EedgV1ngmK4/w-d-xo.html Wieder deutlicher in hier, am deutlichsten in den Baumwipfeln am linken und rechten Bildrand (weil hier wieder die größte Bewegung von Frame zu Frame ist): th-cam.com/video/zZQshvncoPI/w-d-xo.html Aber im Prinzip ist der judder überall bemerkbar, wo Kameratilts oder -pans passieren, umso stärker, je schneller die Kamerabewegung ist - deswegen ist es bei Drohnenaufnahmen auch so deutlich zu sehen (aufgrund der drohnentypischen, gleichmäßigen Kamerabewegungen). Dazu muss man aber folgendes sagen: nicht alle Menschen nehmen es gleich stark wahr. Und je kleiner der Bildschirm (z.B. Smartphone), umso weniger kann man es wahrnehmen, UND, wenn du einen Bildschirm hast, der 24 fps gleichmäßig abspielen kann (z.B. ein 120 Hz Monitor, oder ein iPhone 14 Pro mit 120 Hz, denn 120 / 5 = 24), dann gibt es theoretisch kein judder. Die Mehrheit aller Computerbildschirme und Smartphonedisplays läuft aber auf 60 Hz, und da erklärt es sich schon rein mathematisch, dass judder vorhanden ist, denn 60 /24 = 2,5. Das heißt, es wird ein Frame drei Mal gezeigt, der nächste Frame nur zwei Mal, dann wieder drei Mal usw, und damit hast du kein gleichmäßiges Playback. Nennt sich 3:2 Pulldown und das Resultat ist judder. Ich erkläre es, wie gesagt, denke ich, ganz anschaulich in dem Video, das ich dir vorher schon verlinkt hab, auch mit Anschauungsmaterial und direktem Vergleich von annähernd gleichen Clips, einmal mit 24 und einmal mit 30 fps: th-cam.com/video/-nGi2ecupag/w-d-xo.html Der 24 fps = cinematisch Mythos hält sich leider hartnäckig. Bzw. ist es ja grundsätzlich richtig. ABER 24 fps können auf der Mehrheit der Computer/Smartphonedisplays eben NICHT wiedergegeben werden, und damit hast du den 3:2 Pulldow und damit sieht es eben nicht mehr wie im Kino aus. Besonders bei Drohnenaufnahmen (und darum geht's ja auf meinem Channel) wird das meist sehr deutlich, und deswegen setze ich mich bei diesem Thema auch so dafür ein. Wie gesagt, hast du ein Display, das 24 fps nativ wiedergeben kann (sprich, Bildwiederholrate, die ein Vielfaches von 24 ist, z.B. 96/120/144 Hz), dann siehst du das natürlich nicht, aber ich denke mal, du willst Content produzieren, der für alle gleich gut ansehbar ist, und 60 Hz ist der Standard, den alle Geräte unterstützen. Damit ergeben sich 30 fps oder 60 fps als judderfreie Bildwiederholraten. Wenn man halbwegs cinematische Ergebnisse haben will, würde ich aber 60 fps ausschließen, weil es viel mehr Frames als 24 fps hat und damit zu weit vom Kinostandard entfernt ist. 30 fps ist näher dran an 24 fps. Und als konkrete Anmerkung zu deinen Videos: obwohl ich mit deinen Videoinhalten thematisch wenig Berührungspunkte hab, find ich dass die Videos von Bildgestaltung, Beleuchtung und Colorgrading insgesamt wirklich sehr filmisch und ästhetisch wirken, gefällt mir sehr gut. Ich schätze mal, das ist dein Ziel, und das hast du gut hingekriegt, und vermutlich auch deswegen hast du dich für 24 fps entschieden (weil 24 fps ja Kino ist). Nur leider gehen alle auf TH-cam dieser Tatsache auf den Leim... denn 24 fps können im Kino tatsächlich ruckelfrei wiedergegeben werden (weil die Kinoprojektoren 24 fps kompatibel sind, und die meisten heutigen TVs auch). TH-cam bzw. Computerdisplays (bzw. die Mehrheit dieser) aber eben nicht. Langsam kommt der ein oder andere TH-cam-Filmemacher auch drauf, aber leider sind es noch sehr wenige, und vor allem bei Drone-Content find ich es extrem schade, weil es richtig geile Drohnenpiloten und -videos hier gibt, die aber durch den judder gemindert werden. Es kann natürlich jeder machen, wie er will, aber ich finds halt schade. Technisch kompatibel ist es eben nicht, und im professionellen Videobereich ist es ganz "normal" und üblich, dass man die Framerate bei der Produktion aufs Ausgabemedium anpasst. D.h. im Normalfall, Ausgabemedium Kino = 24 fps, Rundfunk = 25 fps in PAL- oder 30 fps in NTSC-Regionen, und 30 fps für Digital/Online content.
Danke für dein Lob ☺️ Akzentfrei aber nur fast, im Ausland werd ich fast immer als Deutscher identifiziert 😅 Vermutlich ist der Akzent im Englischen bei Deutschen und Österreichern ähnlich 🙂
Just wanted to highlight that at 11:42 the frame rate used in the video is 30fps but the shutter speed selected is 1/40s. Be careful going too low with shutter speed as you could get duplicate frames, despite with more blur, which isn't ideal as may get still a stuttery looking video as two frames are identical. Maybe 1/40s is still fine but if you would have selected 1/30s you will probably end with two identical frames. It's better to stick to the usual rule, shutter speed double the frame rate to avoid any problems. This should be common with any CMOS camera. Source: personal experience and several pro filmmakers tests.
Thanks for your comment :) Do you have a link to any of these pro filmmaker tests? What you're talking about duplicate frames does not make sense to me at all, neither have I ever made this experience (and I film a lot with 1/30 or 1/40 sec at 30 fps). From the logic standpoint, I think that you might have mistaken the relation of shutter speed and frame rate with the relation between footage frame rate and timeline frame rate, or the relation between timeline frame rate and display refresh rate. Incompatibilities there can for sure cause irregular duplicate frames that cause uneven/juddery playback. Actually, I even have a video on my channel talking about this. But with the "wrong" shutter speed you never get duplicate frame rates - you just get more or less motion blur which results in a more "creamy" or more "stuttery" look - but that has nothing to do with duplicate frames, only with the content (amount of motion blur) in each frame. Hope that helps :)
I really, really appreciate your comment. You know, I don't see myself like that, but to be honest it's really good to hear that you and some other viewers think like that and that they can actually take something out of the effort I put into these videos. Gives some kind of purpose which is the main motivation here. Thanks again :)
The general project settings in Resolve are not really dependent on whether it's drone footage or not. Is there anything specific you wanna know? I'd just say that making your project in 3840x2160 and 29.97 fps per second is a good starting point
Thanks for making this! It's a perfect beginners guide but also a great consolidation of knowledge for intermediates which touches on pretty much everything we need to pay attention to for getting consistently good shots. Subscribed!
Amazing Video, thanks! You mentioned sunset/ sunrise. Could you give us some more information about that? What ND filter and settings there? I’m asking because, as you said in the video, the sun will be very bright while the rest is very dark. I often have the problem of high contrast and can’t find the right balance. Appreciate the help, Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback! Sunrise/sunset is no different than everything else. You need to use an ND filter that gives you a good shutter speed for the exposure you're looking for. The contrast problem is the same with or without NDs. If the contrast is too high, you have to decide whether you'd prefer to expose for the sky or the foreground. If you try to find a balance between both you will usually end up with a sky still mostly overexposed and the foreground with little detail and noise. So... In most cases, especially when the sky is spectacular, I'd rather go for the sky and have the foreground dark and silhouette-like. Again, NDs are not able or intended to solve the contrast problem. They are just used to prolong the shutter speed in order to get a good amount of motion blur. I hope that helps a bit, even if this might not be the answer you were looking for.
@t0mwhazzup It is windy indeed, as you know ahaha! I'll try to bring it home around 50% battery. I had a very scary experience, just a week ago on top of a mountain in England 🌬❄️😱
Hi Gavin 🙂 Thanks! No, I don't use polarizers at all. Only ND filters, but they don't change the visual appearance, they are only for shutter speed control.
Dawid, I really appreciate you taking the time to letting me know. For me it's always good to hear what people like or not in order to provide good content in the future. And finding the balance between no fuss and no rush is a pretty hard one, believe me! So, I'm happy that I got it to the point for you. Thanks again 🙂
What about dji mavic 3 pro do u have a video about that topic? P.s. thanks for sharing useful info... i was watching and reading all the details in manual guide ...so far u touched all the part for beginner it's very useful❤
Unfortunately no, I don't own a Mavic 3. But in general, my tips to improve the footage quality are also valid for other drones than the Mini 3 Pro - maybe with the Mavic 3, the settings look different or have a different name, but essentially works the same 🙂 Thank you so much for your feedback, I'm very glad if my video helped you 🙂
Thank you so much for your feedback :) I really appreciate that a lot. Haha, maybe DJI reads your comment and considers sponsoring me ;) If you have not purchased the Mini 3 Pro in the meantime but still intend do, I'd really appreciate if you'd purchase it with one of my affiliate links I have put in the video description. It comes at no extra cost to you but gives me a small commission that helps me out running the channel. Thank you so much :)
Excellent again, thank you! I cooled my drone down on my laptop cooling fan as I followed your video in my living room and used the RC to dial in the settings you advise. It lasted until the battery was almost finished but auto shut down due to eventually getting a bit hot. My editing is limited to the free iMovie but contrast and saturation are my usual slight adjustments. Thanks again. Really helpful.
Yeah, the drone can get really hot when you take the time to do the whole setup. It might help if the props are running (but not flying). Try that :) Thanks for your comment and I am happy that my content is helpful to you. It really means a lot!
Thanks man for the video, great way to start up my drone adventure with my fresh mini 3 pro. I'll check in later to see the rest of your footage/videos! Keep them coming :)
Happy to hear that it helps you getting started 🙂 You will surely be happy with the quality out of this small drone, as long as you pay attention to the things I mention in this video 🙂 I have a few other tutorials that might be helpful, but take your time, step by step and also try things for yourself. Experimenting is also a good part of the learning process, but I just want to give some directions to start with. Which works well for me.
DJI mini 3 pro is my first drone. I saw plenty of videos but yours explain everything what I was looking for - Thank You👍Great work 🚀 New subscriber ✌️
So happy to read this. Not only for having a new subscriber, but for knowing that my work really helped you out. That's really what I try to accomplish, and I so much appreciate that you let me know. It means a lot. Thanks!
Sir, thank you very much for this wonderful video. I am planning on purchasing a drone for my upcoming trip, and this video will ensure the footage I record will be top notch!
Hello. Great content. Can you make a video on nd filters, on when to use them, in what light conditions, and either to use them or not for low light/sunset scenarios, mainly for dlog/dcinelike filming. I have a Mavic 3 Classic and the native ISO from 400 to 800 in dlog is driving me crazy!
This is actually pretty straight forward. I'd always use the ND filter that gives me a good exposure with a shutter speed that's 1 over twice the frame rate. For 30 fps footage, that would be around 1/60 of a second (1 / 2*fps). With the Mavic 3 and its variable aperture you can then fine-adjust by changing the aperture. Hope that helps :) I'd reckon you wouldn't need any ND filter during low light scenarios like twilight with the Mavic 3, but really, just try it out and you'll see :) Thank you very much for your feedback, I appreciate it. If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Your footage is gorgeous, I'm definitely watching your color grading video. Thanks for all the helpful tips. Your calm presentation style is easy to follow. Subbed, good luck with your channel.
Thank you very much for your feedback. It really means a lot! I am happy that you like my style of presentation because I actually don't really like being in front of the camera and my presentation style is not as fancy and top-notch as the videos of many others. But it gives me confidence to go on doing as good as I can. So, thank you again for letting me know 🙂 And if anything is unclear, don't hesitate to ask. Happy to help!
I find that using auto exposure gives me more flexibility and options setting exposure. I use the EV as I would a aperture setting. plus zebra/histogram to further fine tune exposure then finally I program the C2 button the 'lock' the exposure settings. That way the shutter is always set to the optimum motion blur setting. I also use the noise reduction/sharping style function to further refine the image.
Not really sure what you mean. When you have Auto Exposure and fixed shutter speed and just play around with EV, what you effectively do is changing the ISO. And I wouldn't do that - ISO 100 gives the best quality in terms of noise and dynamic range. I'd rather slap on the suiting ND filter and fine adjust exposure by shutter speed, as I explain in the video. Doesn't really make a difference if you use 1/40, 1/50 or 1/60. But if your approach works for you, then, by all means, stick with it :)
Hello my drone mentor.🤩 I have a question about noise in shots from my mini 3 pro. Analyzing your videos I noticed that you don't have this problem. Do you use any post-production treatments that reduce this unpleasant noise effect? Or maybe you record so that the exposure is above zero. Losing details in the highlights? Thank you very much for your answer. I learn a lot from you and I'm waiting for more materials, because thanks to them my drone videos are better 😊
@@Moscizwysokosci Hi! Thanks for your nice comment! I really appreciate it 🙂 Now, you are right about the Mini 3 Pro can be noisy. When you watched my videos, you already know that I expose to the right, that means, I push my exposure as bright as possible in order to get the useable image data well above the noise floor. This way, I very seldomly require noise reduction. Now when it comes to losing highlights, part of this technique is that you only push so far that you don't clip highlights, except for when they are irrelevant (e.g. the edges of clouds clipping is usually no problem). Don't take the EV reading ("exposure above zero") as reference. Activate your histogram and your zebras and go from there. For a given scene, push the exposure (either with a lighter ND or with a slower shutter speed) until you start getting zebras in relevant image parts. Then dial exposure back one or two third stops and you're good to go. This way, your images will be cleaner. Except when you have high dynamic range scenarios, those can be challenging, and you have to decide what is more important. But I go into that in this video and in the color grading video that is linked at the end of this video 🙂 I hope this helps! 🙂
@@t0mwhazzup You are awesome! Thank you so much for the informations 👏👏👏 I am so grateful 🤩 I am waiting for more yours video my dear drone's mentor 😊 The World is better with you!
@@Moscizwysokosci Oh, you are very welcome. Happy to help! Oh and by the way, indeed there is a new video coming from me next week... if you activate notifications you will get a message when it's online 🤗
Well, I use DaVinci Resolve and like it very much. There is a free version that is very capable, but as far as I know it cannot process D-Cinelike 10-bit files. You'd have to either convert them or use the paid version of Resolve (which is a one-time-payment for lifetime updates - pretty fair I think). And thanks for your kind feedback, I appreciate it :)
This and your colour grading video were exactly what I was looking for, having just taken my first tentative steps with D-Cinelike and the mini 3 pro Thank you & subscribed 👍👍
Hey buddy. I’m a professional drone cinematographer and I did a ton of testing of the D-CineLike mode in the Mini 3 Pro and it’s actually not a true log profile. Meaning it’s not flat enough to actually add enough dynamic range to warrant all the effort to restore all the colors AND exposure back to the way it was when recording. This is just my opinion based on all my testing, but I’ll say that I do not use D-CineLike anymore, even in my professional paid gigs with the Mini 3 Pro. If you get your exposure correct (use auto exposure!) then the normal color profile is just fine. -fly safe buddy!
Hey Ted, interesting views! It is true and known that D-Cinelike ain't a real log profile. A real log profile wouldn't make any sense on the Mini 3 Pro since the sensor wouldn't be able to provide any more dynamic range, no matter how flat the profile is. I still stick with D-Cinelike because it's 10-bit and it allows for better corrections in post. I'm wondering what kind of clips you record on your paid gigs because auto exposure with its exposure shifts does not really look too good in my opinion. And auto exposure never knows what I want to expose for. On my paid gigs (which are mainly for TV broadcast) I stick to manual exposure all the time, except for when I need to fly from inside out and or the other way around where the brightness changes dramatically. But all in all I agree, D-Cinelike is no log and has its limitations, but if you expose as I explain, it still offers a bit of tweaking headroom 🙂
Thank you for your feedback :) No, usually I leave it at 5600K and adjust a bit in post if needed. As long as you don't adjust white balance by 4000 K in post, there is no visible loss in quality. I just change white balance when I fly indoors where the light is more around 3200-3500K instead of 5600K, becauce adjusting this in post might reduce color accuracy.
Hands down. The Best LEARNING VIDEO, I have seen on this topic ever. And I have seen quite a lot of videos. Thank you!
Wow, thank you so much for your feedback. I am really glad if it helped and I am reminded why I took the efforts to make this. Thanks again!
I must say, i watched countless tutorials since i got my mini 4 pro. This is the only video that contains no BS and 100% of what he says makes sense. Awesome video man!
Thank you for your valuable feedback! I am really glad to hear that, this video is almost 2 years old but it seems that it has not lost its relevance - which means my efforts in making it paid off. Thanks again 🙂
This was one of the first vids I watched when I first got my drone and I couldn’t appreciate it at the time. A few weeks later and a rewatch has proved this has been one of the best tutorials I’ve needed so far. Excellent stuff no one else touches on including the in depth knowledge of the camera settings. I’ll watch this over and over till it all sinks in.
Thanks for this. Great work.
Oh wow, thanks a lot for your comment. It really means a lot :) Yeah, it's a lot of information and I think when you start out, it might be too much. But I thought it would be cool to have all in one video instead of having to look all over the place :)
Holy smokes, this video is amazing, detailed, informative and extremely well structured and edited. Hope your channel grows exponentially, you deserve it.
I really really appreciate your comment, it means a lot. And while I am really happy that my channel is slowly and steadily growing, I really enjoy comments like yours way more, that let me know that the work I put into my videos really helps people. Thanks again, I appreciate it.
This is the third 'how to understand manual settings' video I've watched and was by far the best. You've mastered the art of taking something complicated and explaining it an easy to understand way. Thank you so much!
Hey Charlie, I just want to let you know that I sincerely appreciate your feedback. It's not the numbers but comments like yours and the knowledge that my efforts in making these videos have some purpose that makes me happy. Thanks again! Cheers!
Hands down! Best Drone tutorial in the internet. Thank you for this ❤
This video and the one linked at the end are still the 2 most important videos for drone pilots who want to shoot good stuff. Thank you, Tom!
@@RobertWildling Thank you, Robert, for your kind feedback. I really appreciate it and I am happy if after more than a year these videos are still useful. 🙂🤗
EXACTLY what I was looking for after watching many videos, thanks mister!!!
So happy if my content was of help to you. Thanks for letting me know, it means a lot.
Was für ein gutes Video!! Ich glaube von allen Tutorials über die MP3 war dies mit Abstand das Beste, welches wirklich alle Themen in unter 20Minuten abdeckt. Tolle Arbeit - danke Dir!
Danke für das Feedback und freut mich, wenn ich helfen konnte - das motiviert mich mehr als alles andere 🙂
This video should be pinned on DJI's website for The mini 3 . Great video!
Oh wow, what a compliment. Thank you very much, I really appreciate it :)
Du bist echt ein Highlight hier in der Tutorial Gemeinde! Bravo lieber Tom!!! :-) ... und Danke!
Wow, deine Worte freuen mich sehr... vielen Dank dafür!
Ottimi consigli, una bella guida semplice e immediata. Grazie.
Mille grazie, Giorgio :)
This is the best video that I have seen so far for a drone beginner. Clear, easy to understand, and to the point. Vielen Dank Tom!!
Vielen Dank für dein Feedback, ich freu mich wirklich sehr, wenn es dir geholfen hat 🙂
Lad amazing guide straight to the point and really useful stuff! thanks!
I am so happy that it was helpful for you. Thank you for the feedback! 🙏🏼
Excellent walk through! Just canceled some 3 ways and changed which switch on a 3 way was the main.
Probably the best drone video ever uploaded to TH-cam!
@@dom.scales Thank you so much. Makes me really glad to read comments like yours - it tells me my efforts paid off and people could take a thing or two from my video. Thanks again 🙂
This is exactly what I needed to see. Thank you for answering so many of my questions.
@@forrestanderson2885 I am very glad that it was helpful to you. Thanks for letting me know! I hope you go out there and capture stunning footage 👌🏼
Best tutorial for drone footage I've seen so far.... well done 👏
Hi Tom
Slow is smooth. And smooth is fast.
I really like your video, because its informative and in a pace thats nice and calm. Thanks
That quote is from Shooter, isn't it? :) Thanks for the positive feedback, I really appreciate it :)
@@t0mwhazzup dunno if the phrase occured in scooter. But Navy Seals use it. And youre welcome
@@janmeinerhougaardvellev2299 Then they took the phrase from the Navy Seals :) I knew it from the movie Shooter :)
Two is one & one is none. Sir.
Your video summarised a lot of things in one video and i appreciate that.
Glad to hear that and I really appreciate your feedback 🤗
Excellent video. No BS, straight to the point, and full of information.
Really happy that my video helped you. I appreciate that you let me know :)
Very well-explained. Thanks for sharing.
@@robertl.4675 Thank you so much for your feedback 🤩
Your videos are great! I just bought a DJI drone and am looking to get into videography. Your channel is a huge inspiration for what I imagine myself creating
I don't really know what to say. Thank you so much for your words! I've started out only 8 months ago, so what you want to achieve is easily doable in just a few months or even weeks, depending on how much time and effort you are able to put in ☺️
YT is a great ressource for learning, and even though there will always be some contradiction between what one TH-camr or another TH-camr says... just try the things for yourself and look what works.
If there's anything I can help, let me know.
My God. You are the best explainer I have ever seen on TH-cam, hence the thumbs up and subscribed
Oh wow. Those are big words. Thank you very much, it really means a lot. Now I wish I had more time doing tutorial videos ;)
Very well explained and a complete tutorial for beginners, thank your very much!
And the footage from South Tyrol was beautiful!
Thank you for your feedback, I really appreciate it. Glad if it helped :)
Best tutorial ever! Logic and concise explanation. Straight to the point.
Oh, thank you so much! I am very happy if it was helpful and I really appreciate your feedback :)
Best video for getting quality photo and video. Thank you!
Thank you so much for your feedback. I am really glad if my efforts were not in vain. Thanks for letting me know, it means a lot!
Thank you for this great video! Just starting and now I understand the basics!
Thank you for your feedback! Happy if it helps :)
So very helpful. I learned a huge amount from this video. Thanks for creating it for us.
Thank you so much for your feedback 🙏🏼 I appreciate that you let me know it was helpful 🙂
Simple way of colour grading, but make big difference! 👍👍👍
Thank you so much for your comment, I appreciate your feedback 👌🏼
Thank you. Only the shutter should be the double of the framerate
Thanks for this video, Very uniquie approach to the content, just straight forward, no nonsense. Subscribed. Thanks.
I really appreciate you taking the time to letting me know that. Very happy that it was helpful to you, and thank you for your support! :)
Your work is absolutely stunning! Perfection in composition, colour and score. I will rewatch on the big screen later for a treat. Honestly the way you have put theses video’s together brings the YT space to a higher bar. Thank you for sharing such skill and knowledge on these lessons. Huge fan now and will share as much I can! #truetalent. You will be one of the main channels in video skills very soon! 😊
Wow, really, thank you very much for that. This really means a lot to me. Very happy that you enjoy it so much! :)
@@t0mwhazzup Have to admit I've just found your videos and they're top quality buddy thanks for producing great content, new subscriber.
Craig, thanks for letting me know, I really appreciate your feedback! Thanks for your support 🤗
@@t0mwhazzup no problem at all... and credit where it's due!
First class tutorial Tom. This deserves attention from anyone serious about improving their cinematography with a drone. I’ve got some new things to try out now!
Thank you very much for your feedback, I really appreciate it. I especially hope that the approach to getting good exposure with the right ND strength is now a little bit clearer. But as I said, if there are any questions left, don't hesitate to ask. Happy to help!
Very nice tips. Thank you.
What matters for me is the video editing & image correction.
Thank you again 😊
Thank you very much for your feedback, I appreciate it :)
One of the best videos, covering all aspects a new beginner pilot needs! Thanks and keep up the good work!
incredible shots you have taken man! Great video
Thank you so much :)
Great video. Everything you need, all in one place. Subscribed :)
Paul, thank you very much for your kind comment and your support 🤗
Best tutorial ever!
Thank you so much 😃
Amazing video with concentrated useful information. I have just bought the drone and being a photographer before gave me most of this knowledge but i still enjoyed every second of it😊
It's great to hear that you still enjoyed it. Thank you for letting me know! Do you plan to make videos with your drone or photos?
@t0mwhazzup mostly videos but pictures also, I used to do wedding photography, I wish I had it back then. Amazing tool for unique selling shots
Very well structured and clear information. Congratulations
Thank you very much! Glad if it was of help to you 🙂
Setting white balance on auto and then deactivate auto, then you have correct white balance setting.
24fps is the best setting for quality because you have the most Bitrate per frame. I film all my footage in 23.976 fps and it's perfect on TH-cam.
Thanks for the manual focus tipp
Your WB method is a good approach maybe. I myself wouldn't hassle because it's one more step before recording each clip and I have never found it necessary to change WB flying outside. The minor adjustments that might be necessary can be done easily in post (for me).
Regarding frame rate. You're right about the highest bitrate per frame. But, and that is more important for drone videos than for any other type of video, 23.976 or 24 fps is not compatible with the standard display refresh rate of 60 Hz of smartphones, computer monitors and alike, on which TH-cam videos are mostly played on. Therefore, the display applies a 3:2 pulldown and that produces judder. I have looked into your videos and they judder as well. 24 fps would be fine if they were displayed in cinema or on any other 24fps-compatible display, but for TH-cam and other online media content, it's a rather unfortunate choice that becomes especially apparant in drone videos because of the nature of its camera movement. Unfortunately, the 24 fps myth is still lingering around.
I have made a video myself about this topic:
th-cam.com/video/-nGi2ecupag/w-d-xo.html
Und da du eh auch deutsch kannst :) Andreas Abb hat es als einer der wenigen mittlerweile auch erkannt:
th-cam.com/video/dQbo0PC4ugY/w-d-xo.html
Hope you enjoy :)
@@t0mwhazzup it depends on which daytime the white balance can change a lot.
Okay darf ich fragen in welchem Video von mir du dieses ruckeln gesehen hast? Mir ist es nämlich noch nicht aufgefallen dass dem so wäre, aber ich weiß was du meinst.
Ich denke aber das ruckeln kommt davon wenn die fps der footage nicht mit der fps der sequence Einstellung im schnittprogramm übereinstimmt, dann gibt es dropouts das stimmt. Meine Geräte spielen aber TH-cam videos mit 24fps flüssig ab.
@@MIMCKMedia Bzgl. white balance: du hast natürlich Recht! Allerdings will ich bei einem Sonnenuntergang ja nicht, dass Dinge reinweiß aussehen, sondern sie sollen (meiner Meinung nach) ja gelblich-rötlich aussehen - insofern ändert sich bei mir bei der Aufnahme nicht viel am Weißabgleich ;) Aber das ist wohl Geschmackssache.
Bzgl. Ruckeln:
Sehr deutlich sieht man es im Introclip von folgendem Video, wenn du auf die Bäume im Hintergrund schaust: th-cam.com/video/tkjD26pW7ik/w-d-xo.html
Dezenter (weil die Bewegung von Frame zu Frame nicht so stark ist) hier, rechts in den Palmenblättern: th-cam.com/video/EedgV1ngmK4/w-d-xo.html
Wieder deutlicher in hier, am deutlichsten in den Baumwipfeln am linken und rechten Bildrand (weil hier wieder die größte Bewegung von Frame zu Frame ist): th-cam.com/video/zZQshvncoPI/w-d-xo.html
Aber im Prinzip ist der judder überall bemerkbar, wo Kameratilts oder -pans passieren, umso stärker, je schneller die Kamerabewegung ist - deswegen ist es bei Drohnenaufnahmen auch so deutlich zu sehen (aufgrund der drohnentypischen, gleichmäßigen Kamerabewegungen).
Dazu muss man aber folgendes sagen: nicht alle Menschen nehmen es gleich stark wahr. Und je kleiner der Bildschirm (z.B. Smartphone), umso weniger kann man es wahrnehmen, UND, wenn du einen Bildschirm hast, der 24 fps gleichmäßig abspielen kann (z.B. ein 120 Hz Monitor, oder ein iPhone 14 Pro mit 120 Hz, denn 120 / 5 = 24), dann gibt es theoretisch kein judder.
Die Mehrheit aller Computerbildschirme und Smartphonedisplays läuft aber auf 60 Hz, und da erklärt es sich schon rein mathematisch, dass judder vorhanden ist, denn 60 /24 = 2,5. Das heißt, es wird ein Frame drei Mal gezeigt, der nächste Frame nur zwei Mal, dann wieder drei Mal usw, und damit hast du kein gleichmäßiges Playback. Nennt sich 3:2 Pulldown und das Resultat ist judder.
Ich erkläre es, wie gesagt, denke ich, ganz anschaulich in dem Video, das ich dir vorher schon verlinkt hab, auch mit Anschauungsmaterial und direktem Vergleich von annähernd gleichen Clips, einmal mit 24 und einmal mit 30 fps: th-cam.com/video/-nGi2ecupag/w-d-xo.html
Der 24 fps = cinematisch Mythos hält sich leider hartnäckig. Bzw. ist es ja grundsätzlich richtig. ABER 24 fps können auf der Mehrheit der Computer/Smartphonedisplays eben NICHT wiedergegeben werden, und damit hast du den 3:2 Pulldow und damit sieht es eben nicht mehr wie im Kino aus.
Besonders bei Drohnenaufnahmen (und darum geht's ja auf meinem Channel) wird das meist sehr deutlich, und deswegen setze ich mich bei diesem Thema auch so dafür ein.
Wie gesagt, hast du ein Display, das 24 fps nativ wiedergeben kann (sprich, Bildwiederholrate, die ein Vielfaches von 24 ist, z.B. 96/120/144 Hz), dann siehst du das natürlich nicht, aber ich denke mal, du willst Content produzieren, der für alle gleich gut ansehbar ist, und 60 Hz ist der Standard, den alle Geräte unterstützen. Damit ergeben sich 30 fps oder 60 fps als judderfreie Bildwiederholraten. Wenn man halbwegs cinematische Ergebnisse haben will, würde ich aber 60 fps ausschließen, weil es viel mehr Frames als 24 fps hat und damit zu weit vom Kinostandard entfernt ist. 30 fps ist näher dran an 24 fps.
Und als konkrete Anmerkung zu deinen Videos: obwohl ich mit deinen Videoinhalten thematisch wenig Berührungspunkte hab, find ich dass die Videos von Bildgestaltung, Beleuchtung und Colorgrading insgesamt wirklich sehr filmisch und ästhetisch wirken, gefällt mir sehr gut. Ich schätze mal, das ist dein Ziel, und das hast du gut hingekriegt, und vermutlich auch deswegen hast du dich für 24 fps entschieden (weil 24 fps ja Kino ist). Nur leider gehen alle auf TH-cam dieser Tatsache auf den Leim... denn 24 fps können im Kino tatsächlich ruckelfrei wiedergegeben werden (weil die Kinoprojektoren 24 fps kompatibel sind, und die meisten heutigen TVs auch). TH-cam bzw. Computerdisplays (bzw. die Mehrheit dieser) aber eben nicht. Langsam kommt der ein oder andere TH-cam-Filmemacher auch drauf, aber leider sind es noch sehr wenige, und vor allem bei Drone-Content find ich es extrem schade, weil es richtig geile Drohnenpiloten und -videos hier gibt, die aber durch den judder gemindert werden.
Es kann natürlich jeder machen, wie er will, aber ich finds halt schade. Technisch kompatibel ist es eben nicht, und im professionellen Videobereich ist es ganz "normal" und üblich, dass man die Framerate bei der Produktion aufs Ausgabemedium anpasst. D.h. im Normalfall, Ausgabemedium Kino = 24 fps, Rundfunk = 25 fps in PAL- oder 30 fps in NTSC-Regionen, und 30 fps für Digital/Online content.
24p really isn't ideal for YT though, this will cause judder on most playback devices.
@makromizer Absolutely true, I have a video about this topic:
th-cam.com/video/-nGi2ecupag/w-d-xo.html
Habe gesehen, dass du Österreicher bist. Sprichst aber fast akzentfreies Englisch, Respekt! Super Kanal und hilfreiche Infos!
Danke für dein Lob ☺️ Akzentfrei aber nur fast, im Ausland werd ich fast immer als Deutscher identifiziert 😅 Vermutlich ist der Akzent im Englischen bei Deutschen und Österreichern ähnlich 🙂
Amazing Video! THANK YOU! Also the video about Framerate and Color Grade ist superb!!!!
Thank you so much for your feedback and your nice words. It really means a lot!
Thank you.. This is the best video I have seen so far about the mini 3 pro. answered many questions I had.
Ahmed, I'm very happy that my video was of help to you. Thanks for letting me know, I appreciate it 😊
Just wanted to highlight that at 11:42 the frame rate used in the video is 30fps but the shutter speed selected is 1/40s.
Be careful going too low with shutter speed as you could get duplicate frames, despite with more blur, which isn't ideal as may get still a stuttery looking video as two frames are identical.
Maybe 1/40s is still fine but if you would have selected 1/30s you will probably end with two identical frames.
It's better to stick to the usual rule, shutter speed double the frame rate to avoid any problems.
This should be common with any CMOS camera.
Source: personal experience and several pro filmmakers tests.
Thanks for your comment :) Do you have a link to any of these pro filmmaker tests?
What you're talking about duplicate frames does not make sense to me at all, neither have I ever made this experience (and I film a lot with 1/30 or 1/40 sec at 30 fps). From the logic standpoint, I think that you might have mistaken the relation of shutter speed and frame rate with the relation between footage frame rate and timeline frame rate, or the relation between timeline frame rate and display refresh rate. Incompatibilities there can for sure cause irregular duplicate frames that cause uneven/juddery playback. Actually, I even have a video on my channel talking about this.
But with the "wrong" shutter speed you never get duplicate frame rates - you just get more or less motion blur which results in a more "creamy" or more "stuttery" look - but that has nothing to do with duplicate frames, only with the content (amount of motion blur) in each frame. Hope that helps :)
Your tutorial is very helpful. Much appreciated
Thank you so much for your feedback. Happy to help :)
This video is epic! Thank you so much. Look forward to watching your other videos.
Thank you very much for your comment. I really appreciate your feedback and I am very happy if my content was helpful to you. :)
Thank you Brother, for making this! Very good quality! You do it better then some of the 1 million+ Subscriber channels. This is good stuff! Thanks!
I really, really appreciate your comment. You know, I don't see myself like that, but to be honest it's really good to hear that you and some other viewers think like that and that they can actually take something out of the effort I put into these videos. Gives some kind of purpose which is the main motivation here. Thanks again :)
Thanks for making this video! It's perfect for me, I got a lot of insights after just watched your video!
Thank you so much for letting me know, I really appreciate it 🤗
Very good explication , thanks
@@marcus3878 Thank you so much for your feedback 🙂
Your video was very informative and detailed. Thank you for making this.
Best video on drone training!!
Thanks man 👍🏼
Awesome video, got straight to the point and explained everything that is needed to know with examples. Helped alot thanks.
I'm really happy that it helped! Thanks for letting me know, your feedback keeps me motivated 🤗
good video... thank you
Thank you for letting me know :)
you have gain another subscriber !!! very useful information ! love it , now I feel ready to get out there and get some footage , thanks !!!!!!
I'm very glad that this video was helpful to you :) Thanks for letting me know! I hope you enjoy the process!
Please make a video about settings, project settings in Davinci Resolve for Dji Mini 3 Pro and clips in D-cinelike
The general project settings in Resolve are not really dependent on whether it's drone footage or not. Is there anything specific you wanna know? I'd just say that making your project in 3840x2160 and 29.97 fps per second is a good starting point
Great video! Very informative and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for your kind comment. I really appreciate it and I am happy if it helped 🙂
Super 👌 💯... I learned so much just by watching your tutorial😉👍
Thank you so much for your feedback! It keeps me going ☺️
This guy should be on top of the search list...took to long to sort through useless "help" videos. Excellent video my friend, very good info
Thank you very much for your feedback, I really appreciate your praise and I am happy if it helped ☺️
Thanks for making this! It's a perfect beginners guide but also a great consolidation of knowledge for intermediates which touches on pretty much everything we need to pay attention to for getting consistently good shots. Subscribed!
Thank you very much for your kind feedback, it really means a lot! And thank you for your support :)
Wholesome content Tom! Useful, well articulated and straight to the point. Thanks for sharing your insights!
Nico, thank you very much for letting me know. Glad it helped :)
Amazing Video, thanks!
You mentioned sunset/ sunrise. Could you give us some more information about that?
What ND filter and settings there?
I’m asking because, as you said in the video, the sun will be very bright while the rest is very dark. I often have the problem of high contrast and can’t find the right balance.
Appreciate the help, Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback! Sunrise/sunset is no different than everything else. You need to use an ND filter that gives you a good shutter speed for the exposure you're looking for. The contrast problem is the same with or without NDs. If the contrast is too high, you have to decide whether you'd prefer to expose for the sky or the foreground. If you try to find a balance between both you will usually end up with a sky still mostly overexposed and the foreground with little detail and noise.
So... In most cases, especially when the sky is spectacular, I'd rather go for the sky and have the foreground dark and silhouette-like.
Again, NDs are not able or intended to solve the contrast problem. They are just used to prolong the shutter speed in order to get a good amount of motion blur.
I hope that helps a bit, even if this might not be the answer you were looking for.
Thanks for this video and especially for the drone settings. Time to change mine according to yours as a fresh new starting point!
Hope it helps! 🙂
@@t0mwhazzup I'm in Madeira now and I'll be using your settings in the next days. I'll let you know :))
@ClaudioDesideriFilms Great! I hope it's not too windy! 🙂
@t0mwhazzup It is windy indeed, as you know ahaha! I'll try to bring it home around 50% battery. I had a very scary experience, just a week ago on top of a mountain in England 🌬❄️😱
The IQ at 16:30 was incredible. Did you have a polarizer on the drone when shooting this scene?
Hi Gavin 🙂 Thanks! No, I don't use polarizers at all. Only ND filters, but they don't change the visual appearance, they are only for shutter speed control.
Great video, looking forward to my next flight. Thank you ;)
Thanks for your feedback, highly appreciated 🙏🏼 Enjoy your flight 🙂
Love your tutorials Tom. Very high quality, no fuss, no rush either, great explanation, nice voice. Thank you! Subbed of course
Dawid, I really appreciate you taking the time to letting me know. For me it's always good to hear what people like or not in order to provide good content in the future. And finding the balance between no fuss and no rush is a pretty hard one, believe me! So, I'm happy that I got it to the point for you.
Thanks again 🙂
Great tutorial. Keep it up!
Thank you very much for letting me know 🤗
ZThis is amazing!
Thank you so much :)
Good stuff man!!! Subscribed!
Thanks so much for your support! Glad that you can make good use of my content :)
Hello, awesome video. I can't seem to get my microSD card to work with it (I've tried with 2 different ones), can anyone help? thx
With the Mini 3 Pro? I use Sandisk ones, they work fine.
@@t0mwhazzup I actually put the SD card in the wrong place, I put it in the controller lol. Thanks.
@@SurreshRaju Haha okay, good that you were able to sort it out yourself 😉
Great video thx 🙏
Thank you so much for your feedback 🙏
What about dji mavic 3 pro do u have a video about that topic?
P.s. thanks for sharing useful info... i was watching and reading all the details in manual guide ...so far u touched all the part for beginner it's very useful❤
Unfortunately no, I don't own a Mavic 3. But in general, my tips to improve the footage quality are also valid for other drones than the Mini 3 Pro - maybe with the Mavic 3, the settings look different or have a different name, but essentially works the same 🙂
Thank you so much for your feedback, I'm very glad if my video helped you 🙂
Fantastic video! I am sitting on the fence about the mini 3 and seeing this may have pushed me over the edge 😊
Thank you so much for your feedback :) I really appreciate that a lot.
Haha, maybe DJI reads your comment and considers sponsoring me ;) If you have not purchased the Mini 3 Pro in the meantime but still intend do, I'd really appreciate if you'd purchase it with one of my affiliate links I have put in the video description. It comes at no extra cost to you but gives me a small commission that helps me out running the channel. Thank you so much :)
Excellent again, thank you! I cooled my drone down on my laptop cooling fan as I followed your video in my living room and used the RC to dial in the settings you advise. It lasted until the battery was almost finished but auto shut down due to eventually getting a bit hot. My editing is limited to the free iMovie but contrast and saturation are my usual slight adjustments. Thanks again. Really helpful.
Yeah, the drone can get really hot when you take the time to do the whole setup. It might help if the props are running (but not flying). Try that :)
Thanks for your comment and I am happy that my content is helpful to you. It really means a lot!
@@t0mwhazzup I’ll try that and hope I don’t go flying around the room!😁
Thank you for this video. Really helpful information
Thank you so much for your feedback 🙏🏼 Really appreciate it!
Top content! concise, clear and expertly explained. keep up the good work.
Liam, thanks for your kind words. I really appreciate your feedback, very happy to provide helpful content! ☺️
Thanks man for the video, great way to start up my drone adventure with my fresh mini 3 pro. I'll check in later to see the rest of your footage/videos! Keep them coming :)
Happy to hear that it helps you getting started 🙂 You will surely be happy with the quality out of this small drone, as long as you pay attention to the things I mention in this video 🙂 I have a few other tutorials that might be helpful, but take your time, step by step and also try things for yourself. Experimenting is also a good part of the learning process, but I just want to give some directions to start with. Which works well for me.
DJI mini 3 pro is my first drone. I saw plenty of videos but yours explain everything what I was looking for - Thank You👍Great work 🚀
New subscriber ✌️
So happy to read this. Not only for having a new subscriber, but for knowing that my work really helped you out. That's really what I try to accomplish, and I so much appreciate that you let me know. It means a lot. Thanks!
Great information, thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your comment, I really appreciate your feedback :)
Sir, thank you very much for this wonderful video. I am planning on purchasing a drone for my upcoming trip, and this video will ensure the footage I record will be top notch!
Hi Manny, thank you very much for your feedback. I am really happy if my video was of help! :)
Hello. Great content. Can you make a video on nd filters, on when to use them, in what light conditions, and either to use them or not for low light/sunset scenarios, mainly for dlog/dcinelike filming. I have a Mavic 3 Classic and the native ISO from 400 to 800 in dlog is driving me crazy!
This is actually pretty straight forward. I'd always use the ND filter that gives me a good exposure with a shutter speed that's 1 over twice the frame rate. For 30 fps footage, that would be around 1/60 of a second (1 / 2*fps). With the Mavic 3 and its variable aperture you can then fine-adjust by changing the aperture. Hope that helps :)
I'd reckon you wouldn't need any ND filter during low light scenarios like twilight with the Mavic 3, but really, just try it out and you'll see :)
Thank you very much for your feedback, I appreciate it. If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Top content on this subject. Many thanks to you for putting this out there.
Seems it’s high time for me to start filming in manual mode :]
Manual ftw! 🙂
And thank you for your kind words, I really appreciate your feedback 🙂
Your footage is gorgeous, I'm definitely watching your color grading video. Thanks for all the helpful tips. Your calm presentation style is easy to follow. Subbed, good luck with your channel.
Thank you very much for your feedback. It really means a lot! I am happy that you like my style of presentation because I actually don't really like being in front of the camera and my presentation style is not as fancy and top-notch as the videos of many others. But it gives me confidence to go on doing as good as I can. So, thank you again for letting me know 🙂
And if anything is unclear, don't hesitate to ask. Happy to help!
by default where will the videos are stored ? on the sd card right ? how can I store the videos on the rc for videos/quick shots etc ? can we do it ?
No, you can choose between SD card (in the drone) or the internal storage space (in the drone, too).
I find that using auto exposure gives me more flexibility and options setting exposure. I use the EV as I would a aperture setting. plus zebra/histogram to further fine tune exposure then finally I program the C2 button the 'lock' the exposure settings. That way the shutter is always set to the optimum motion blur setting. I also use the noise reduction/sharping style function to further refine the image.
Not really sure what you mean. When you have Auto Exposure and fixed shutter speed and just play around with EV, what you effectively do is changing the ISO. And I wouldn't do that - ISO 100 gives the best quality in terms of noise and dynamic range. I'd rather slap on the suiting ND filter and fine adjust exposure by shutter speed, as I explain in the video. Doesn't really make a difference if you use 1/40, 1/50 or 1/60.
But if your approach works for you, then, by all means, stick with it :)
Damn bro. That hoodie looks like it's ready to dock.
Haha, that must be hoodie comment No. 1000 :D
Great video tutorial, very inciteful and delivered in a professional manner. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for your feedback. I really appreciate that you let me know ☺️
Thanks a lot! Can't wait to try!! 😎 worth a follow!😊😊
I't worked :O Thank you! Much better quality than before. :)
Glad if it helped! And I appreciate that you let me know :) @@RickysFishing
Hello my drone mentor.🤩 I have a question about noise in shots from my mini 3 pro. Analyzing your videos I noticed that you don't have this problem. Do you use any post-production treatments that reduce this unpleasant noise effect? Or maybe you record so that the exposure is above zero. Losing details in the highlights? Thank you very much for your answer. I learn a lot from you and I'm waiting for more materials, because thanks to them my drone videos are better 😊
@@Moscizwysokosci Hi! Thanks for your nice comment! I really appreciate it 🙂 Now, you are right about the Mini 3 Pro can be noisy. When you watched my videos, you already know that I expose to the right, that means, I push my exposure as bright as possible in order to get the useable image data well above the noise floor. This way, I very seldomly require noise reduction. Now when it comes to losing highlights, part of this technique is that you only push so far that you don't clip highlights, except for when they are irrelevant (e.g. the edges of clouds clipping is usually no problem). Don't take the EV reading ("exposure above zero") as reference. Activate your histogram and your zebras and go from there. For a given scene, push the exposure (either with a lighter ND or with a slower shutter speed) until you start getting zebras in relevant image parts. Then dial exposure back one or two third stops and you're good to go. This way, your images will be cleaner. Except when you have high dynamic range scenarios, those can be challenging, and you have to decide what is more important. But I go into that in this video and in the color grading video that is linked at the end of this video 🙂 I hope this helps! 🙂
@@t0mwhazzup You are awesome! Thank you so much for the informations 👏👏👏 I am so grateful 🤩 I am waiting for more yours video my dear drone's mentor 😊 The World is better with you!
@@Moscizwysokosci Oh, you are very welcome. Happy to help! Oh and by the way, indeed there is a new video coming from me next week... if you activate notifications you will get a message when it's online 🤗
@Moscizwysokosci Well then today is the day. Stay tuned in the afternoon ☺️ Thanks again!
Hi
Is there a simulator just for that remote controller (new one )becouse i find only for fps controller
Tnx
Sorry, what remote controller and what is fps controller? Do you mean hardware controller for DaVinci Resolve? I don't have one, so I don't know.
Awesome video man! Thanks!
Thank you so much for your feedback 🙏🏼
Very informative video🎉
Glad if it helps :) Thanks for letting me know.
What’s recommended editing software for app and computer
Great video , thank you
Well, I use DaVinci Resolve and like it very much. There is a free version that is very capable, but as far as I know it cannot process D-Cinelike 10-bit files. You'd have to either convert them or use the paid version of Resolve (which is a one-time-payment for lifetime updates - pretty fair I think).
And thanks for your kind feedback, I appreciate it :)
Fantastic Video
Thank you so much :)
This and your colour grading video were exactly what I was looking for, having just taken my first tentative steps with D-Cinelike and the mini 3 pro
Thank you & subscribed 👍👍
Happy that it helped, and even more that you let me know. Thanks for your support ☺️
Hey buddy. I’m a professional drone cinematographer and I did a ton of testing of the D-CineLike mode in the Mini 3 Pro and it’s actually not a true log profile. Meaning it’s not flat enough to actually add enough dynamic range to warrant all the effort to restore all the colors AND exposure back to the way it was when recording.
This is just my opinion based on all my testing, but I’ll say that I do not use D-CineLike anymore, even in my professional paid gigs with the Mini 3 Pro. If you get your exposure correct (use auto exposure!) then the normal color profile is just fine. -fly safe buddy!
Hey Ted, interesting views! It is true and known that D-Cinelike ain't a real log profile. A real log profile wouldn't make any sense on the Mini 3 Pro since the sensor wouldn't be able to provide any more dynamic range, no matter how flat the profile is.
I still stick with D-Cinelike because it's 10-bit and it allows for better corrections in post.
I'm wondering what kind of clips you record on your paid gigs because auto exposure with its exposure shifts does not really look too good in my opinion. And auto exposure never knows what I want to expose for. On my paid gigs (which are mainly for TV broadcast) I stick to manual exposure all the time, except for when I need to fly from inside out and or the other way around where the brightness changes dramatically. But all in all I agree, D-Cinelike is no log and has its limitations, but if you expose as I explain, it still offers a bit of tweaking headroom 🙂
I have DJI Avata 2 can u please make a video for Avata 2 pro videos
Unfortunately I don't have an Avata 2, I am sorry 🥺
Amaizing, detail explaining
Thank you for your feedback ☺️
Thanks for the video!
Do you also use 6000 Kelvin when shooting very warm sunrises/sunsets?
Thank you for your feedback :)
No, usually I leave it at 5600K and adjust a bit in post if needed. As long as you don't adjust white balance by 4000 K in post, there is no visible loss in quality. I just change white balance when I fly indoors where the light is more around 3200-3500K instead of 5600K, becauce adjusting this in post might reduce color accuracy.
great tut! thanks
Thank you ☺️ Happy that it helped!