ratchet tensioner mod 4.6 4v (03-04 svt cobra)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- *The bottom 4 teeth have been removed from the ratchet and a spacer installed. These modifications help prevent the breaking of tensioner guides or timing changes when a two step is used or other high oil pressure instances.
-wonder racing primary plunger spacers
www.wonderraci...
- ford performance timing chain kit 4.6 4v
www.summitraci...
Thanks for the video this mod is so much easier then I first thought! I didn't realize the teeth were on a small shaft adjacent to the plunger, I was thinking id have to grind a bunch of material off the plunger itself haha. Doing this today for my 2003 f250.
Will this mod work for the first gen 5.0l boss primary tensioners?
I'm considering chopping the whole arm off since I'll have shims in mine as well.
Does this apply to 2 valves or no?
Yes they use same tensioner
@@texaseliteperformance4471same chains too!
What is the reason to put a spacer?
I guess it is to make up for the chopped off 4 teeth? And this spacer would extend the plunger to tension the timing chain without the rachet teeth breaking the chain???
For future reference
With the spacer, it's intended to be used with removing the ratcheting mechanism and so the piston is unable to go in far enough in the event of oil pressure loss/drop to UNDER tension the chains.
Grinding the teeth is for not allowing the tensioner to lock up fully extended OVER tensioning the chains!
The spacers defeat the purpose of the ratchet mechanism and grinding the teeth defeats the ratcheting mechanism 😂
Thanks for posting.
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Was thinking about doing this mod for my 2010 5.4l 3v f150 when and if my tensioners blow a seal. Do you think leaving the ratchet shaft out completely as between the plunger spacers and no seal to blow out (like the plastic ones) the chain whip on startup should be practically illuminated on a stock engine?
I would get rid of the plastic tensioners and switch over to the metal ones
@@texaseliteperformance4471 what do you think about leaving ratchet shaft out and using metal ones without the ratchet so they will act like plastic ones with the added benefit of no seal to blow out ?
@@thebestengines1413 What if i just have a 5.4 3v expedition 07 and i wanted to switch to the cast iron tensioners do i need to do this mod and if so do i need to also the spacer or just chop of the teeth
@@thebestengines1413 hey what did you ended up doing with your project i had the same thought about just removing the ratcheting system? And really dont see why not but im really unsure on what to do here.
@@thebestengines1413 spacers are intended to just remove the ratchet mechanism all together as it's redundant with them, it's just another part that only potentially can end up in the forge and wreak havoc and doesn't actually do anything (specifically anything good!)
Not using a 2 step...but would do u mean "other high oil pressure instances"
Thank you
2 step causes extreme chain turbulence and the safety measures are for "low" oil pressure instances....
Spacers don't allow the piston to collapse enough to hop teeth and grinding the ratchet teeth doesn't allow the piston to lock up too far out!
The spacers are intended to just remove the ratchet mechanism all together...... It's redundant at that point and is just another part to fall into the forge!
I did the mod to the teeth a few years ago, but not the spacer. Does the spacer maintain more spring pressure? I’m getting a little chain slap at idle.
Yes, the spring can't go lower to allow anymore slack
@@texaseliteperformance4471 thanks, guess I will be taking it back apart🤪
The spacer would help to prevent chain slap at startup, but oil pressure should be preventing it at idle.
@@toddmiller5322 thanks, ended up being a stretched chain. Replaced both primary chains and new tensioners because it ripped a few teeth off of the modified mmr ones. All wonder racing stuff now with spacer
Wonder Racing wants $35.00 dollars for a $.50 bushing? lol that's insane.
I've got some tensioners on the way, I'll return with the specifications of the "spacer" and a part number.
Let us know🙏🏽
NY UPDATE?
@@Miggz03Svt the tensioners I was sent ended up being the newest version with the rubber gasket and no ratchet mechanism.
Really it's not hard to determine using a micrometer, a cheap hand tool that can be found online or in some local stores. Then just find an online supplier for bushings.
1. Measure the inside diameter of the bore
2. Select a bushing with an outside diameter around 12,000 to 15,000 smaller than the inside diameter of the tensioner bore. This will allow oil for lubrication, but not enough slop that it can get cocked in the bore. Length looks to be nearly the same as the diameter of the bushing.
@@toddmiller5322 thank you
What would it do differently to grind the last 4 teeth without the added spacer?
What’d you end up doing ?
@@BradonAnderson I ended with the timing on my Ford Expedition using racheting steel tensioner and I ground off the last 2 teeth. My truck runs nice quiet and very powerful.
I did not use the spacer.
I ground 2 not 4, and no spacer. Truck runs great.
Spacers make the ratchet redundant and most people ONLY grind the teeth.
It's basically one or the other and most go with the free route!
Good mods
What is the purpose for this mod?
Check description👍🏽
Does this apply to 2 valves or no?
Not sure if you found your answer but yes this is doable on both 3 & 2 valve, im doing this today for my 2v. Just a heads up though, most websites will not say this part fits earlier models even though it is a direct replacement simply because they came out with the iron in later years but the websites do not understand the compatibility between the plastic and irons.