The drill-powered pulley you see in this episode is now available hownot2.store/products/z2 Lappas wedge bolts are at hownot2.store/products/titanium-wedge-bolt
As a mechanic there was a material flaw in manufacturing with that bolt. If you look at the image of the bolt as a still you will notice a spherical deformation toward the center of the bolt. If not dirt and video optical illusion it is either a bubble or slag / weld type bb. It happens from time to time. Otherwise the look from a step sheer you get when you have threads is normal. If it is not normal the uniformity of the color will let you know. I do wonder if that bolt could be hardened better like half or quarter depth surface hardening. But, that's where an engineer is needed. Never got that deep into it.
I will never climb in my life, but for some reason, I find all of this so fascinating. Also, have you ever tried gluing in a wedgebolt to see if that makes it last longer?
Problem with titanium is every scratch becomes a weak point. If you look at how jet engine blades fail they scratch and that will just continue to grow. They have to polish out the cracks if they see them. Obviously these are different applications, but same material deficiencies. These bolts will obviously be scratched by the rocks.
I am exclusively using wedgebolts in underground mining and we rarely use them more than once. Besides chemical substances inducing rapid metal decay, there are bacillus (EDIT: e.g, Acidithiobacillus ferrooxidans ; Acidithiobacillus thiooxidans etc) underground depending on the mineralisation that are able to break down pretty much any non-precious metal in unpredictable ways. If a wedgebolt is in there for more than 2 months (especially in close proximity to hydrothermal sulfide formations) i personally do not trust them anymore and usually drill new holes use new bolts new hangers and destroy the old ones to make sure nobody else uses them. At one occasion, put in some V4A stainless 24mm survey bolts and some of them turned into briddle black crumbs after just 2 years due to agressive waters and bacteria. EDIT: The presence of iron pyrite is usually an indicator that both aluminium and stainless steel are likely to corrode there.
@@REMIREZZ If you are curious about the bacteria you could read about bioleeching which uses these bacteria (e.g, Acidithiobacillus ferrooxidans ; Acidithiobacillus thiooxidans) for several technical applications. If you went caving you might have seen them already, they sometimes form snot pools. Our university ran some experiments with those naturally occuring bacillus for leeching ore and the bacteria even ate holes into brass fittings and even leeched small amounts of the molybdenium from high grade stainless steel (i am no material expert but these alloys are often used in climbing gear so that was one reason for me to be a bit more careful than required with gear for underground use). Aluminium seems to suffer most when iron pyrite (FeS) is present, on one hand the electochemical potential gap between Fe and Al is quite large and when the pyrite decays sulfuric acid forms which also does help the corrosion process. The corrosion you see in mines with iron pyrite or markasite present is absolutely wild and very unpredictable. I have found carabiners that were way more corroded than the ones in the video which again, made me extra careful.
To be fair V4A is still a pretty corrosion susceptible metal. For every day use it’s excellent , but especially for aggressive environments, like marine ones or petrochem there are different steel alloys that can be used. For these there aren’t any official classification systems (like V4A) and one actually has to look at specific alloy numbers/codes, but there are very corrosion resistant steel alloys, and they aren’t even that much more expensive compared to V4A, though they usually come with major downsides, such as being very difficult to machine or having worse tensile properties etc. As said these are used in large scale petrochemical industry or marine applications where frequent replacement is undesirable, due to causing excessive down time. With many of these facilities loosing 100K - 1M $ per hour of down time. So as always it’s a cost benefit analysis.
I have used 2 foot wedge bolts for underground belt hangers all the time. I put it in white sandstone as a head guy. It's holding a powerline I built in 1998 and it's still holding today. Still use them today. Got one holding 4/0 cable running from the mine station to the drift mouth. Put one in a couple months ago and rung the span of cable around 150 feet long. Never had a problem with corrosion.
These are my thoughts as somebody that works with titanium from the manufacturing & assembly side and not as a materials engineer. Titanium parts will typically come with much more specific instructions for thread forms, assembly specifications and anti-seize compounds used where parts need to be threaded, pivot in an assembly or need to be disassembled for service. You should see who you can get in contact with a materials/structures engineer that is familiar with titanium. If you're still in the PNW there is a good chance that a friend of a friend knows an aerospace engineer. Titanium has some odd material properties when you start to get into assemblies and threads, odd being compared to the same parts made out of steel. Threads and threaded assemblies with Ti on Ti can be susceptible to a few failure modes and issues not common in steel. The form of the root of the thread can become a stress concentration area if it is cut with a sharp pointed tool. This might be why the bolt broke at the threads and not in an are of the bolt with a smaller diameter. Threads with Ti on Ti are also susceptible to galling, if it is installed once and never touched and never needs to be tightened this would not be a problem, if the nut does ever start to loosen over time and needs to be tightened over and over again it could either gall in place or with a spinning hanger on it. Threads are basically spiral wedges so the same problem can happen at the wedge end of the bolt as well. The wedge could lock to the collar before it has fully expanded. For these issues some steps can be taken during installation such as using an anti-seize or lubricant on the wedge end but it just makes it more complicated. Titanium fasteners are eruptible to room temperature creep when under load if they are over torqued or under a constant load (highline anchors) That being said, a titanium wedge bolt can be a good thing and a useful tool for development, but it can also have quite a few inherent failure modes designed into it if not careful. Bending, twisting or welding titanium rod to make a glue in doesn't really have any of these issues and the community should probably just stick with those for now.
This. Special form of thread cutting used in titatinum. But I'm not entirely sure how much of a problem this is in this video compared to the fact that titanium just doesn't like to bend and adhere to a different shape.
These do look to be a cut thread, and as they said 12mm not 1/2" it should have a root radius if cut with full form inserts. I think a rolled thread would be better depending on the grade and hardness of the titanium. From the failure mode of the bolts they seam to either be on the brittle side or the core of the threads are creating stress risers, I would have expected more elongation before failure.
TBF, thread roots being concentration points for stress is a known issue for steel (and pretty much every metal afaik) as well. Getting more specific instructions for titanium parts might be selection bias, since the people who care enough about performance characteristics to order a part in titanium probably more often than the average person also want to increase that performance via well defined features.
@@Kenionatus Stress concentration points do exist in all materials but titanium is more sensitive to them than steels. Titanium is also weaker (UTS, yield and modulus) than stainless steel so it is also more important for this application. The 1/2 inch stainless bolts that Ryan tested a while back were breaking hangers around 40KN for reference while these were breaking much closer to a 3/8" 5 piece bolt. If aerospace companies could get away with specifying a simple thread on their parts then they would haven't spent so much time and money to study failures and iterate on thread forms.
For paywall standards, I've had some luck with contacting my local library system. You're in Seattle now, and we have a pretty good one. Often they will find some way where they already have access to the document, or they might even buy the standard for their collection. Hasn't worked every time though, they have budgets too and the full text ANSI standards are $$$, who cares that I trust my life to those standards every day, guess I don't need to read it! Ugh. I really get the frustration.
@@HowNOT2I think you can discuss the standards especially as they pertain to the tests you are doing. You may not be able to show the material on camera or publish lengthy passages but unless you sign some sort of NDA prior to legally accessing the information, like at the library or through purchase, I don't think you are prohibited from citing, quoting or referring to it. You can't copyright data (or ideas) - just the presentation of them. You might contact Devon at LegalEagle about this too. He may have already done a video on such things.
@@HowNOT2 - copyright - and whichever "artform" is being protected, doesn't materially differ regardless of what paywall the information is located behind, generally - as others have queried, unless there s a separate legal tool at work, The standards "organisations" are merely publishing houses charging for their product.
@@HowNOT2 the standard you showed literally shows a 10mm pin size lol there was no paywall at all, what bugs me is TH-camrs not telling the truth just to make a video.
@@P.G.Wodelouse they meant the full version of EN-959:2018, which looks to me like it's about 80 Euro at your friendly neighbourhood standards store... (Not the abbreviation version shown in the video) - or did you find that full document published somewhere for free (legally)?
"That will literally be in there forever". Challenge accepted! Drop me the cords for that rock where you snapped off that concrete anchor and I'll film a video on how to remove a recessed damaged concrete anchor without damaging the rock further.
Titanium has a much smaller range of deformation and is more brittle than stainless, that's the short answer why they broke lower in soft rock. So if they are just loaded without little to no movement, they hold up just fine but if they also have to bend around stuff while being loaded, they fail sooner. So as you said, do NOT use in soft rock.
Why would standards ever need to be behind a pay wall. They pay for the certification to those standards, the standards themselves should never be paywalled, it makes no sense.
I love the work you've done regarding bolt testing, the bolting bible and all relevant information on the subject. With all the the information available, accessible and now a convenient store to purchase quality bolts from, I'd hope to see only the best of the best bolts put up from now on. As we've seen, there's not a "one size fits all" solution but maybe those are all points that will be tied in with the new proposed legislation regarding bolts. With any luck there are only a few "necessary evil" hoops to jump through, minimal red tape and it ensures: placing stronger bolts designed to last a longer time, bolt selection based off which product is best for each application, better bolt placement amongst the rock and an overall, safer, more cost effective and less environmentally impactful experience.
@HOWNOT2 THANKS FOR THE INFORMATIVE VIDEO FYI - @ 6:22- standing within the " V OF DEATH" MOST DANGEROUS PLACE TO BE..... GREAT EXAMPLE OF HOW NOT 2 BEST WISHES
Ryan/Bobby. I have a thought/idea. When testing hangers, it really seems the size of the "object" that gets connected to the hanger makes a difference on how/when the hanger will break or shear. What would be an interesting test is that if you could make a jig for a specific hanger so that the bolt size and quality is not a factor, then use different diameter objects on the hanger to see what difference diameters make as the force applied across the hanger changes from a small diameter to a large diameter. Sorry if this is a bit jumbled but sometimes my fingers can't keep up with my brain when typing lol. Anyway, it seems you have all of the hardware there to quantify varying diameters of objects and their affects on breaking strength on hangers. To put all of this in perspective, I am not a climber or a slack liner, but I find the testing that you both do fascinating. Keep up the great work and try not to move your patio concrete pad......
It took me less than a minute to find and download a free copy of the BS-EN 2007 edition. (British Standards Institute) Each member nation approves the standard and the adds BS- or DIN- to the standard making it their approved version. The current 2021 edition is a reapproval of the 2018 edition, which in turn was an updated version of 2007. Usually, the changes are minor and are often defined by other websites. It just came takes time to research.
Good video, guys. One point I would make.... maybe it was said and I missed it. So you got higher results with Ti bolt and Fixe (SS) hanger. People should NOT mix steel with Ti (aor anything else with Ti). In the very short term, like making a video, there is not a problem. But mixing those two metals over a period of time will break down the steal. Never mix Ti and steel.
The issue with dissimilar metals is galvanic corrosion. You essentially create an exchange of electrons between the two materials, in other words a battery. Steel and aluminum can be notoriously bad for this condition. An insulator between the two can solve or reduce the problem.
Few years ago I pulled a glue in out with my fingers a week after it was installed, I think it was a mixing problem. I didn't install them, but after that I was dam sure to remove them all!
Titanium bolting is rarely a great solution in any environment. The reason is that Titanium readily galls or cold welds which makes the sliding of one threaded component over another difficult. The same problem inevitable occurs with expansion devices. (A typical industrial Titanium galling failure was the Cougar 91 accident in 2009 when 17 people died in an S-92 helicopter out of St Johns after Titanium bolting of a gearbox oil filter cap failed due to galling.) Stainless steel exhibits similar properties but generally to a lesser extent. Both materials work better with lubricants applied that assist sliding but the lubricant can cause other problems. Solid lubricant (like talc) can sometimes be a solution but their containment or adhesion can be more of a problem than for liquids. With these metals, you can never make this problem go away completely. There are other exotics with similar or better corrosion resistance but even more expensive, like Monel. However, Aluminium Bronze has strength similar to steel but with good galling resistance and good corrosion resistance. It is a popular engineering solution in maritime environments. I am not aware of any attempt to use it for climbing gear.
If the fasteners need to be stronger and removable. Might require an expanding sleeve and inner bolt. The inner bolt with a taper can be removed to allow the entire fastener to be removed easily. The end of the inner bolt would be tapered and threaded . Perhaps in an acme thread as would the internal bore deepin the sleeve. This would allow the removal or loosening of the inner bolt to allow the sleeve to be easily removed from the rock. Any thing to attach is on the outside of the sleeve with a nut and washer. That could also allow various thicknesses of spacers to be used to easily pull the sleeve from the rockface. Leaving a hole in the rock. And yes. I do see issues and can come up with solutions. This prevents long term corrosion issues. I would think coring drills would be used so you could snap off the remaining piece to examine it for cracks that could cause a slab failure is possible. Filling the openings could be done with rock colored plastic sleeves with a tapered stronger plastic pin hammered in to fit it tight to the hole. Various colors could be produced to kinda match rock color variations if you cannot leave the hole open.
If you are using PMMA cements, or something in that genre, they'll last multi-decades without issue in many environments. Whilst a glass like amorphous conglom, they are also viscous and cope well with heat cycles. So they don't loosen in the typical way others might.
actually if you keep the folded shape in it's original form , it will pull a lot more , deforming titanium altough less than other metals is still the starting sign for the structure to develop a cascade of unbinding
I don't know why, but when ever I see Bobby in a video it brings a smile to my face :) (It might be pathological, but if it is I don't want to be cured ;)
For cargo lifting, everything is rated to have a 5x safety factor so that a 20 ton shackle, cable or lifting ring will not break unless it exceeds 100 tons. Seems like climbing gear should be at least as stringent as lifting a cargo basket to a boat.
I'm not a climber, but those are the same kind of bolts used in construction for the bottom plate of walls in houses to secure the wall to the concrete foundation
Have you had anyone suggest that when you're hammering your bolt in.....double nut so that your not potenially flaring the end of the bolt out. When hammering the impact is then dispersed across basically two nut's worth of threads.
Install a new rock anchor into a new concrete block in accordance with 5.3.2.1. Attach the concrete block to the tensile testing machine using a support, and a clamp at a distance a ≥ installed length l + 5 % away from the axis of the rock anchor (see Figure 4). Apply a radial load to the rock anchor using a pin with a diameter of (10 ± 0,1) mm in the eye at a rate of (35 ± 15) mm/min, increasing the load to (8 ± 0,25) kN then reducing the load to less than 0,5 kN. Apply this loading a total 9 BS EN 959:2018 EN 959:2018 (E) of ten times within 10 min. Again apply a load, increasing it until failure or until the rock anchor is pulled out of the concrete block.
Maybe try drilling the holes perpendicular to the rock face? Wrongly angled holes could mean the tightening torque will add bending stress and deform the bolt even before any load is added to the anchor. Angled holes/bolts will massively increase the chance of bolt failure and the likelihood of it coming loose. Just needs a bit of care - your life depends on it!
Standards like UIAA are OK but the EN standards (an i speak s a citizen of the EUSSR) is a system to reduce competition, not to enhance safety. All the best
Little hint with EN standards. With how things used to work before Brexit, here in the UK we would just adopt EN standards but appended with BS (for British Standard). So our equivalent should be BS EN 939. Quick search shows a lot of pay walls. However might give you other places to look.
Hey I have a question.. I see alot of Videos from the everest where like 100 people walk on one Rope or sometimes like 3 ropes...what they use for so many people to make it safe because for me it looks like it's too many people for this much gear
I'm not a climber but came upon your video. Maybe the material guys could shed some light. Wouldn't a rounded hanger be much stronger that a flat one? I just know that in most cases rounded supports generally are stronger that flat ones. I'm interested in hearing if that would even be relevant or the mechanicals of a tubular vs flat hanger
Something that I'm interested about here is bolt preload on those wedges. We see the anchor getting pulled out, but it possible to preload the nut/bolt interface to 70% of the pullout strength (or above the cycle test force) to prevent this nut coming out? Or is preload a moving average with different rock type and it's impossible to know how hard to torque?
Typical wedge bolts do have a torque spec you're supposed to apply, so the preload should be estimable ( Estimatable?) In case of too-soft rock they just keep pulling out and you can end up never achieving torque spec
Thats what UV. Gel coat is for ,an just FYI. The open curing process does not generate the heat that you're going to get in a small hole we're talking about anchors, ps strip the gel coat of your boat an watch what happens quick
i prefer drop test cause you can't gradually fall at a slow rate, when you fall u instantly accelerated at 9.81m/s average, But increasing load or sudden impact load make material behave completely different, case and point diamond it can withstand so much pressure aka gradual load but with a hammer it hard but significantly easier to break, the extreme opposite is non Newtonian fluid like kinetic sand, or thing like 3DO use in motorcycle armor, the area of contact also mater the more you spread the load a cross the material the more energy can be defuse like a thicker but less durable cable vs a smaller diameter but stronger cable which can bite into the steal easier and make it fail earlier than expected, for climbing equipment i prefer to know the impact strength per area because it properly a few time more then what come after in which case t you dangling after the fall (pressure strength).
Wow so their rating is interesting. The standard EN959 states to pull at a minimum of 35mm/min, which *nobody* does, so they're doing the absolute slowest they can to make their product comply. So yeah it does, technically comply, but...ugh Nice work lads.
I wonder how strong those bolts would be if they were a single crystal of titanium grown in a bolt-shape. The compressor blades in the jet engines of some commercial airplanes are literally one big crystal of titanium.
@@richardlumley2581 Yes! RR, those are the folks that do it! As far as I know the process of making them is proprietary. Unfortunate because it would have applications all over the place. Thanks for the reminder.
Is there a reason why you guys dont try to find 'alternatively distributed' versions of the stabdards? When looking up the standards i could find some PDFs of older versions of them pretty easily and im sure the more updated ones are available with a bit of a deeper dive.
@@HowNOT2 ahh I wasn't sure if it was an issue of being allowed to share or not and it really sucks that you're not allowed to. Imo standards are useless if you don't know how they're set up. Keep on fighting the good fight and hopefully this will change in the future
Expansion anchors/wedge bolts do not perform very well when loaded to pull out as they are very reliant on the strength of the substrate they are put into. These types of anchors should only be loaded in shear, that perpendicular to the axis of the bolt.
As a Blacksmith, I would say, after 3 Min, the failing of your Steelhangers is a Production Process Problem. I think, they bend them Cold in a Press. That hardens the Bend and makes the Material briddel. Even the stamping out of Sheetmetal is a Problem, it interrupts the inner Struktur of the Metal. Same for Bolts, threading is done Cold and the Hex is done Hot, but ghey dosent Heat treat them after. Automobilindustrie has similar Problems, so they Forge high Quality Parts, so the inner Struktur of the Metal follow the Form. Coldforming always prestress the Material and cause Weakness.
Titanium is not created equal. Its also known as very strong, actually its strong compared to weight ratios of other alloys. It shears an is brittle. Tho iam sure its super good enough lol
that's so weird. fast pull, strong. super slow pull, even stronger. slow but not super slow pull? weakest of the 3. wtf physics, make up your mind best I can speculate is heat. fast pull is too fast for heat to build up, super slow is slow enough for it to dissipate, slowish pull is the awkward middle ground. would be curious to see a temp reading immediately after each test
Heat shouldn't take time to build up. Work done is force times distance. Time doesn't appear in the equation. You should have the same amount of heat produced regardless of the speed of the pull (although the super slow pull has time to dissipate that heat, so I agree that is probably why that is stronger). My guess is that the drop test doesn't give it time to deform. With the slow pull, it deforms and is probably weaker in the deformed state, so it breaks. With the drop test, the force increases so quickly there isn't time for it to deform and you are testing the strength in the intended shape (or closer to it).
Titanium has some truly wonky work hardening characteristics. Put any heat into it, or stretch it quickly, and it gets much tougher. Makes it an absolute pain to machine as well. Something related to that is probably what's happening to it.
An poorly thought out hypothesis as an engineer who works with titanium in situations with rapid heat fluctuations. I think two phenomena are at play: 1) Titanium generally has poor thermal conductivity. This means that if your heat has time to dissipate, you're golden. This could explain the slow vs medium response. The slow load is slow enough that heat spreads through the component then we might expect it to be as strong as a static load. The medium loading may be fast enough that heat generation is faster than heat dissipation. 2) The shock load from the drop test might be fast enough that the heat generation is "adiabatic". In cyclic loading of a structure, a main source of heat is created from stretching and releasing the intermolecular bonds (try pulling on a rubber band repeatedly and feel the temperature variation as it is stretched or relaxed). This means that the rapid load actually cools the metal, and heats up when the load is RELEASED, rather than heating up during loading as we might expect. Because of this, the temperature related loss of strength is mitigated against somewhat, and we have a higher load capacity than the medium load rate. In the medium load rate, we are applying enough load to plastically deform the metal. We are generating heat through friction-like processes rather than stretching the bonds, so the part heats up during the load.
All materials have a rate of strain characteristic and the graphs are readily available, for Ti-6Al-4V titanium we can see at a strain rate of 0.0001m/s you get a stress of 780MPa, at 1m/s it is 990MPa. Some materials have very interesting characteristics, the alloy used in karabiners is one in particular leading to some interesting effects if you use an ill-designed drop test instead of the slow-pull specified in the standard. With stainless steel you can change the test parameters to get massive changes in their breaking load, I've seen 33kN and over 45kN from identical bolts.
2:34 i totally understand this feeling. ill be really stuck on a 3d model or desighn and be trying to refind my elements with information or math from papers; you find just the right paper or seemingly so and them my broke ass gets hit with a 200$ subscription pay wall to read one paper? im good on that haha knowledge is for everybody but give us moneyyyyyyyy first XD
The drill-powered pulley you see in this episode is now available hownot2.store/products/z2
Lappas wedge bolts are at hownot2.store/products/titanium-wedge-bolt
As a mechanic there was a material flaw in manufacturing with that bolt. If you look at the image of the bolt as a still you will notice a spherical deformation toward the center of the bolt. If not dirt and video optical illusion it is either a bubble or slag / weld type bb. It happens from time to time. Otherwise the look from a step sheer you get when you have threads is normal. If it is not normal the uniformity of the color will let you know. I do wonder if that bolt could be hardened better like half or quarter depth surface hardening. But, that's where an engineer is needed. Never got that deep into it.
I will never climb in my life, but for some reason, I find all of this so fascinating. Also, have you ever tried gluing in a wedgebolt to see if that makes it last longer?
Problem with titanium is every scratch becomes a weak point. If you look at how jet engine blades fail they scratch and that will just continue to grow. They have to polish out the cracks if they see them. Obviously these are different applications, but same material deficiencies. These bolts will obviously be scratched by the rocks.
I am exclusively using wedgebolts in underground mining and we rarely use them more than once. Besides chemical substances inducing rapid metal decay, there are bacillus (EDIT: e.g, Acidithiobacillus ferrooxidans ; Acidithiobacillus thiooxidans etc) underground depending on the mineralisation that are able to break down pretty much any non-precious metal in unpredictable ways. If a wedgebolt is in there for more than 2 months (especially in close proximity to hydrothermal sulfide formations) i personally do not trust them anymore and usually drill new holes use new bolts new hangers and destroy the old ones to make sure nobody else uses them. At one occasion, put in some V4A stainless 24mm survey bolts and some of them turned into briddle black crumbs after just 2 years due to agressive waters and bacteria. EDIT: The presence of iron pyrite is usually an indicator that both aluminium and stainless steel are likely to corrode there.
That’s wild!! Do you have any search suggestions to find more about exactly what you’re talking about?
@@REMIREZZ If you are curious about the bacteria you could read about bioleeching which uses these bacteria (e.g, Acidithiobacillus ferrooxidans ; Acidithiobacillus thiooxidans) for several technical applications. If you went caving you might have seen them already, they sometimes form snot pools. Our university ran some experiments with those naturally occuring bacillus for leeching ore and the bacteria even ate holes into brass fittings and even leeched small amounts of the molybdenium from high grade stainless steel (i am no material expert but these alloys are often used in climbing gear so that was one reason for me to be a bit more careful than required with gear for underground use). Aluminium seems to suffer most when iron pyrite (FeS) is present, on one hand the electochemical potential gap between Fe and Al is quite large and when the pyrite decays sulfuric acid forms which also does help the corrosion process. The corrosion you see in mines with iron pyrite or markasite present is absolutely wild and very unpredictable. I have found carabiners that were way more corroded than the ones in the video which again, made me extra careful.
Sounds like an opportunity for petzl pulse bolts or screw anchors
To be fair V4A is still a pretty corrosion susceptible metal. For every day use it’s excellent , but especially for aggressive environments, like marine ones or petrochem there are different steel alloys that can be used. For these there aren’t any official classification systems (like V4A) and one actually has to look at specific alloy numbers/codes, but there are very corrosion resistant steel alloys, and they aren’t even that much more expensive compared to V4A, though they usually come with major downsides, such as being very difficult to machine or having worse tensile properties etc. As said these are used in large scale petrochemical industry or marine applications where frequent replacement is undesirable, due to causing excessive down time. With many of these facilities loosing 100K - 1M $ per hour of down time. So as always it’s a cost benefit analysis.
I have used 2 foot wedge bolts for underground belt hangers all the time. I put it in white sandstone as a head guy. It's holding a powerline I built in 1998 and it's still holding today. Still use them today. Got one holding 4/0 cable running from the mine station to the drift mouth. Put one in a couple months ago and rung the span of cable around 150 feet long. Never had a problem with corrosion.
These are my thoughts as somebody that works with titanium from the manufacturing & assembly side and not as a materials engineer. Titanium parts will typically come with much more specific instructions for thread forms, assembly specifications and anti-seize compounds used where parts need to be threaded, pivot in an assembly or need to be disassembled for service. You should see who you can get in contact with a materials/structures engineer that is familiar with titanium. If you're still in the PNW there is a good chance that a friend of a friend knows an aerospace engineer.
Titanium has some odd material properties when you start to get into assemblies and threads, odd being compared to the same parts made out of steel.
Threads and threaded assemblies with Ti on Ti can be susceptible to a few failure modes and issues not common in steel. The form of the root of the thread can become a stress concentration area if it is cut with a sharp pointed tool. This might be why the bolt broke at the threads and not in an are of the bolt with a smaller diameter.
Threads with Ti on Ti are also susceptible to galling, if it is installed once and never touched and never needs to be tightened this would not be a problem, if the nut does ever start to loosen over time and needs to be tightened over and over again it could either gall in place or with a spinning hanger on it. Threads are basically spiral wedges so the same problem can happen at the wedge end of the bolt as well. The wedge could lock to the collar before it has fully expanded.
For these issues some steps can be taken during installation such as using an anti-seize or lubricant on the wedge end but it just makes it more complicated.
Titanium fasteners are eruptible to room temperature creep when under load if they are over torqued or under a constant load (highline anchors)
That being said, a titanium wedge bolt can be a good thing and a useful tool for development, but it can also have quite a few inherent failure modes designed into it if not careful.
Bending, twisting or welding titanium rod to make a glue in doesn't really have any of these issues and the community should probably just stick with those for now.
This. Special form of thread cutting used in titatinum.
But I'm not entirely sure how much of a problem this is in this video compared to the fact that titanium just doesn't like to bend and adhere to a different shape.
These do look to be a cut thread, and as they said 12mm not 1/2" it should have a root radius if cut with full form inserts.
I think a rolled thread would be better depending on the grade and hardness of the titanium.
From the failure mode of the bolts they seam to either be on the brittle side or the core of the threads are creating stress risers, I would have expected more elongation before failure.
TBF, thread roots being concentration points for stress is a known issue for steel (and pretty much every metal afaik) as well. Getting more specific instructions for titanium parts might be selection bias, since the people who care enough about performance characteristics to order a part in titanium probably more often than the average person also want to increase that performance via well defined features.
@@Kenionatus Stress concentration points do exist in all materials but titanium is more sensitive to them than steels. Titanium is also weaker (UTS, yield and modulus) than stainless steel so it is also more important for this application. The 1/2 inch stainless bolts that Ryan tested a while back were breaking hangers around 40KN for reference while these were breaking much closer to a 3/8" 5 piece bolt.
If aerospace companies could get away with specifying a simple thread on their parts then they would haven't spent so much time and money to study failures and iterate on thread forms.
Ohhh, so it's like a more crystaline, harder (brittle) aluminum?
For paywall standards, I've had some luck with contacting my local library system. You're in Seattle now, and we have a pretty good one. Often they will find some way where they already have access to the document, or they might even buy the standard for their collection. Hasn't worked every time though, they have budgets too and the full text ANSI standards are $$$, who cares that I trust my life to those standards every day, guess I don't need to read it! Ugh. I really get the frustration.
I could get, read or even just pay for the standards. What bugs me is I can't share any of it when I'm making a video like this. That's frustrating.
@@HowNOT2I think you can discuss the standards especially as they pertain to the tests you are doing. You may not be able to show the material on camera or publish lengthy passages but unless you sign some sort of NDA prior to legally accessing the information, like at the library or through purchase, I don't think you are prohibited from citing, quoting or referring to it. You can't copyright data (or ideas) - just the presentation of them.
You might contact Devon at LegalEagle about this too. He may have already done a video on such things.
@@HowNOT2 - copyright - and whichever "artform" is being protected, doesn't materially differ regardless of what paywall the information is located behind, generally - as others have queried, unless there s a separate legal tool at work,
The standards "organisations" are merely publishing houses charging for their product.
@@HowNOT2 the standard you showed literally shows a 10mm pin size lol there was no paywall at all, what bugs me is TH-camrs not telling the truth just to make a video.
@@P.G.Wodelouse they meant the full version of EN-959:2018, which looks to me like it's about 80 Euro at your friendly neighbourhood standards store... (Not the abbreviation version shown in the video) - or did you find that full document published somewhere for free (legally)?
"That will literally be in there forever". Challenge accepted!
Drop me the cords for that rock where you snapped off that concrete anchor and I'll film a video on how to remove a recessed damaged concrete anchor without damaging the rock further.
Titanium has a much smaller range of deformation and is more brittle than stainless, that's the short answer why they broke lower in soft rock. So if they are just loaded without little to no movement, they hold up just fine but if they also have to bend around stuff while being loaded, they fail sooner.
So as you said, do NOT use in soft rock.
3:10 35mm/min is the prescribed speed in EN 959. Might be why Lappas tests that slowly.
I really appreciate the lengths you guys go to in producing this material.
I’m not a climber. Into survival and I love gear and rope. I have learned so much and love watching you vids. Dig it.
That is really cool that he sent you his test video! Full transparency is amazing
Why would standards ever need to be behind a pay wall. They pay for the certification to those standards, the standards themselves should never be paywalled, it makes no sense.
I love the work you've done regarding bolt testing, the bolting bible and all relevant information on the subject. With all the the information available, accessible and now a convenient store to purchase quality bolts from, I'd hope to see only the best of the best bolts put up from now on. As we've seen, there's not a "one size fits all" solution but maybe those are all points that will be tied in with the new proposed legislation regarding bolts. With any luck there are only a few "necessary evil" hoops to jump through, minimal red tape and it ensures: placing stronger bolts designed to last a longer time, bolt selection based off which product is best for each application, better bolt placement amongst the rock and an overall, safer, more cost effective and less environmentally impactful experience.
You guys rock! I love seeing how you go about testing this stuff. Makes me feel safer knowing I'm never going to reach those numbers on my own.
“this board is 12 inches long” “What's an inch” “give me $200 and i’ll tell you.”
@HOWNOT2
THANKS FOR THE INFORMATIVE VIDEO
FYI - @ 6:22- standing within the " V OF DEATH" MOST DANGEROUS PLACE TO BE..... GREAT EXAMPLE OF HOW NOT 2
BEST WISHES
Thanks Rman and Bobbster. ;) Keep on bolt(testin') in the free world!
Ryan/Bobby. I have a thought/idea. When testing hangers, it really seems the size of the "object" that gets connected to the hanger makes a difference on how/when the hanger will break or shear. What would be an interesting test is that if you could make a jig for a specific hanger so that the bolt size and quality is not a factor, then use different diameter objects on the hanger to see what difference diameters make as the force applied across the hanger changes from a small diameter to a large diameter. Sorry if this is a bit jumbled but sometimes my fingers can't keep up with my brain when typing lol. Anyway, it seems you have all of the hardware there to quantify varying diameters of objects and their affects on breaking strength on hangers. To put all of this in perspective, I am not a climber or a slack liner, but I find the testing that you both do fascinating. Keep up the great work and try not to move your patio concrete pad......
It took me less than a minute to find and download a free copy of the BS-EN 2007 edition. (British Standards Institute) Each member nation approves the standard and the adds BS- or DIN- to the standard making it their approved version. The current 2021 edition is a reapproval of the 2018 edition, which in turn was an updated version of 2007. Usually, the changes are minor and are often defined by other websites. It just came takes time to research.
Good video, guys. One point I would make.... maybe it was said and I missed it. So you got higher results with Ti bolt and Fixe (SS) hanger. People should NOT mix steel with Ti (aor anything else with Ti). In the very short term, like making a video, there is not a problem. But mixing those two metals over a period of time will break down the steal. Never mix Ti and steel.
The issue with dissimilar metals is galvanic corrosion. You essentially create an exchange of electrons between the two materials, in other words a battery. Steel and aluminum can be notoriously bad for this condition. An insulator between the two can solve or reduce the problem.
Haven't been into climbing in a few years cause of medical stuff but will hit the rocks sometime. Thanks for the testing yall do!
10:58 I dig that spark flying! 🎆
Anyone else notice the whole boulder shifting at 11:00?
random information: if you have a battery drill with a chisel function use that for setting the bolts ;) It is far easier and nicer on teh hands
It’s refreshing that they sent the actual video
Good point about using good glue. We have glue failing on a few bolts less than 10 years old. Trying to find out if it was good stuff or not.
Few years ago I pulled a glue in out with my fingers a week after it was installed, I think it was a mixing problem.
I didn't install them, but after that I was dam sure to remove them all!
I read that too fast and thought you said wood glue😆
Testing at that speed probably prevents heat buildup which could affect the strength of the part.
Titanium bolting is rarely a great solution in any environment. The reason is that Titanium readily galls or cold welds which makes the sliding of one threaded component over another difficult. The same problem inevitable occurs with expansion devices. (A typical industrial Titanium galling failure was the Cougar 91 accident in 2009 when 17 people died in an S-92 helicopter out of St Johns after Titanium bolting of a gearbox oil filter cap failed due to galling.)
Stainless steel exhibits similar properties but generally to a lesser extent. Both materials work better with lubricants applied that assist sliding but the lubricant can cause other problems. Solid lubricant (like talc) can sometimes be a solution but their containment or adhesion can be more of a problem than for liquids.
With these metals, you can never make this problem go away completely.
There are other exotics with similar or better corrosion resistance but even more expensive, like Monel. However, Aluminium Bronze has strength similar to steel but with good galling resistance and good corrosion resistance. It is a popular engineering solution in maritime environments. I am not aware of any attempt to use it for climbing gear.
You should let bolt buyers post back where/when they put in the bolts they bought.
That way extended real life reviews/research can happen
Or maybe like, a test rock with a bunch lined up, pull something like 16N once or twice a year or so - get an idea of how "lifetime" these things are.
If I remember correctly from my climbing days these loads are dynamic not static. You not applying dynamic load your apply a continuous load
I have seen wedge bolts work loose under cyclic (hard, soft pull) loads.
Not a climber but I still find your videos informative and entertaining thats why I subscribe.
If the fasteners need to be stronger and removable. Might require an expanding sleeve and inner bolt. The inner bolt with a taper can be removed to allow the entire fastener to be removed easily. The end of the inner bolt would be tapered and threaded . Perhaps in an acme thread as would the internal bore deepin the sleeve. This would allow the removal or loosening of the inner bolt to allow the sleeve to be easily removed from the rock. Any thing to attach is on the outside of the sleeve with a nut and washer. That could also allow various thicknesses of spacers to be used to easily pull the sleeve from the rockface. Leaving a hole in the rock. And yes. I do see issues and can come up with solutions. This prevents long term corrosion issues.
I would think coring drills would be used so you could snap off the remaining piece to examine it for cracks that could cause a slab failure is possible.
Filling the openings could be done with rock colored plastic sleeves with a tapered stronger plastic pin hammered in to fit it tight to the hole. Various colors could be produced to kinda match rock color variations if you cannot leave the hole open.
If you are using PMMA cements, or something in that genre, they'll last multi-decades without issue in many environments. Whilst a glass like amorphous conglom, they are also viscous and cope well with heat cycles. So they don't loosen in the typical way others might.
Woah, did not expect to see Evan and his instagram account on this video. Cool! Dude's a great guy.
You da man
ฉันไม่ใช่นักปีนเขา แต่ฉันคิดว่า ฉันได้ประโยชน์จากวีดีโอเหล่านี้ สู้ต่อไปกับการทดสอบนอกกรอบนั้น ฉันชอบมัน ขอบคุณวีดีโอที่ดีอีกเช่นเคย
actually if you keep the folded shape in it's original form , it will pull a lot more , deforming titanium altough less than other metals is still the starting sign for the structure to develop a cascade of unbinding
I don't know why, but when ever I see Bobby in a video it brings a smile to my face :)
(It might be pathological, but if it is I don't want to be cured ;)
For cargo lifting, everything is rated to have a 5x safety factor so that a 20 ton shackle, cable or lifting ring will not break unless it exceeds 100 tons. Seems like climbing gear should be at least as stringent as lifting a cargo basket to a boat.
Its crazy that safety standards specifications are behind a paywall... That'd be like putting an MSDS behind a paywall, unthinkable...
they are not behind a paywall they just didn't read the one they put on the screen its 10mm btw as shown in this video
A thousand years from now, bird scientists will wonder what ritual significance we got from driving metal spikes into rocks.
I'm not a climber, but those are the same kind of bolts used in construction for the bottom plate of walls in houses to secure the wall to the concrete foundation
Put Bobby in every thumbnail! I’ll watch anything with that smile in it!
Bad ass bolts and hangers.
200 year solution means when they reach the end everyone with the knowledge and experience to replace it will be gone. Has anyone considered that
Have you had anyone suggest that when you're hammering your bolt in.....double nut so that your not potenially flaring the end of the bolt out. When hammering the impact is then dispersed across basically two nut's worth of threads.
Install a new rock anchor into a new concrete block in accordance with 5.3.2.1. Attach
the concrete block to the tensile testing machine using a support, and a clamp at a distance
a ≥ installed length l + 5 % away from the axis of the rock anchor (see Figure 4). Apply a radial load to
the rock anchor using a pin with a diameter of (10 ± 0,1) mm in the eye at a rate of (35 ± 15) mm/min,
increasing the load to (8 ± 0,25) kN then reducing the load to less than 0,5 kN. Apply this loading a total
9
BS EN 959:2018
EN 959:2018 (E)
of ten times within 10 min. Again apply a load, increasing it until failure or until the rock anchor is pulled
out of the concrete block.
Use stuff to hang decks. on cinder block you use a sock
Is there a reason climbers don't use the large tapcon type bolts with glue from hilti?
Maybe try drilling the holes perpendicular to the rock face?
Wrongly angled holes could mean the tightening torque will add bending stress and deform the bolt even before any load is added to the anchor.
Angled holes/bolts will massively increase the chance of bolt failure and the likelihood of it coming loose.
Just needs a bit of care - your life depends on it!
Standards like UIAA are OK but the EN standards (an i speak s a citizen of the EUSSR) is a system to reduce competition, not to enhance safety.
All the best
I dont climb, but this is very interesting. Good job!
Im sure life saving equipment is supposed to be 4 times SWL, I'd have to double check, its been a while since I've done the examiners side
Does titanium weaken with cyclical loading? Weird the bolt broke so low on the second big pull
"it's not against rock" "uuuhhhm..." 😂
The bolts may have stretched. If that's the case, then that is part of what's causing the loosening of the nut.
The glue ins on the Key West big wall aren't holding up well. Maybe the heat and humidity?
How do you guys feel about locktiteing the threads to keep the nut from coming loose on the bolt?
Little hint with EN standards. With how things used to work before Brexit, here in the UK we would just adopt EN standards but appended with BS (for British Standard).
So our equivalent should be BS EN 939. Quick search shows a lot of pay walls. However might give you other places to look.
Hey I have a question..
I see alot of Videos from the everest where like 100 people walk on one Rope or sometimes like 3 ropes...what they use for so many people to make it safe because for me it looks like it's too many people for this much gear
I'm not a climber but came upon your video. Maybe the material guys could shed some light. Wouldn't a rounded hanger be much stronger that a flat one? I just know that in most cases rounded supports generally are stronger that flat ones. I'm interested in hearing if that would even be relevant or the mechanicals of a tubular vs flat hanger
Maybe specify wave threads to remove that stress riser
Its essentially a floor anchor.
How would Titanium vs Steel perform, if they have had heat (eg. Forest burn,... in that climbing Area) how many KN they would withstand?
Giving something a rating, while the fail is significantly less, opens them up to a huge liability if something happens.
Something that I'm interested about here is bolt preload on those wedges. We see the anchor getting pulled out, but it possible to preload the nut/bolt interface to 70% of the pullout strength (or above the cycle test force) to prevent this nut coming out? Or is preload a moving average with different rock type and it's impossible to know how hard to torque?
Typical wedge bolts do have a torque spec you're supposed to apply, so the preload should be estimable ( Estimatable?)
In case of too-soft rock they just keep pulling out and you can end up never achieving torque spec
You might wanna call it the droppings tower tree from now on after seeing them weights that were left at the bottom of it for a while xD
2 part epoxy turns to rubber ,most engineers will not use it in big construction any more because of the fail reason ,all wedge anchors
If that was true most sailboats and racecars would be rubber by now
Thats what UV. Gel coat is for ,an just FYI. The open curing process does not generate the heat that you're going to get in a small hole we're talking about anchors, ps strip the gel coat of your boat an watch what happens quick
Carbon fiber is a much different animal
Do loose bolts effect MBS strenght? Should loose bolts be a concern whilst sports?
I get paywalls, but paywalling a standard? imagine if the specs for a USB port were paywalled. It's ridiculous
i prefer drop test cause you can't gradually fall at a slow rate, when you fall u instantly accelerated at 9.81m/s average, But increasing load or sudden impact load make material behave completely different, case and point diamond it can withstand so much pressure aka gradual load but with a hammer it hard but significantly easier to break, the extreme opposite is non Newtonian fluid like kinetic sand, or thing like 3DO use in motorcycle armor, the area of contact also mater the more you spread the load a cross the material the more energy can be defuse like a thicker but less durable cable vs a smaller diameter but stronger cable which can bite into the steal easier and make it fail earlier than expected, for climbing equipment i prefer to know the impact strength per area because it properly a few time more then what come after in which case t you dangling after the fall (pressure strength).
Why has no one said to add red loctite to the threads so it does not loosen after force applied.
Do you know what will happen if u put 2 hangers in 1 bolt ?
Why not use nylok or a jam nut?
Any reason why you can't switch out the nuts for a nylock nut?
I have yet to meet a rock climber that carries power tools / hammers etc up a mountain 🤣🤣🤣
Wow so their rating is interesting. The standard EN959 states to pull at a minimum of 35mm/min, which *nobody* does, so they're doing the absolute slowest they can to make their product comply. So yeah it does, technically comply, but...ugh
Nice work lads.
I wonder how strong those bolts would be if they were a single crystal of titanium grown in a bolt-shape. The compressor blades in the jet engines of some commercial airplanes are literally one big crystal of titanium.
I've worked on those blades, it's rolls Royce that make them. damn shame I didn't get to keep one, amazing bits of engineering
@@richardlumley2581 Yes! RR, those are the folks that do it! As far as I know the process of making them is proprietary. Unfortunate because it would have applications all over the place.
Thanks for the reminder.
The melting point of titanium is 1668 degrees Celcius
so dont use on sun
so you need to gel it and wedge it
Love your videos but it is super pixelated even on 1080p unless you pay extra for "Enhanced bitrate". Doesn't even look good on a phone.
Is there a reason why you guys dont try to find 'alternatively distributed' versions of the stabdards? When looking up the standards i could find some PDFs of older versions of them pretty easily and im sure the more updated ones are available with a bit of a deeper dive.
I've had some luck with that, but not every standard. The EN 959 I've found old versions of, but nothing up to date.
I have read the standards, people have shared them with me. I'm frustrated I can't share what I read in the videos. That is wrong imo.
@@HowNOT2 ahh I wasn't sure if it was an issue of being allowed to share or not and it really sucks that you're not allowed to. Imo standards are useless if you don't know how they're set up. Keep on fighting the good fight and hopefully this will change in the future
What about Glued Wedge Bolts??
Expansion anchors/wedge bolts do not perform very well when loaded to pull out as they are very reliant on the strength of the substrate they are put into. These types of anchors should only be loaded in shear, that perpendicular to the axis of the bolt.
As a Blacksmith, I would say, after 3 Min, the failing of your Steelhangers is a Production Process Problem. I think, they bend them Cold in a Press. That hardens the Bend and makes the Material briddel. Even the stamping out of Sheetmetal is a Problem, it interrupts the inner Struktur of the Metal. Same for Bolts, threading is done Cold and the Hex is done Hot, but ghey dosent Heat treat them after. Automobilindustrie has similar Problems, so they Forge high Quality Parts, so the inner Struktur of the Metal follow the Form. Coldforming always prestress the Material and cause Weakness.
Titanium is not created equal. Its also known as very strong, actually its strong compared to weight ratios of other alloys. It shears an is brittle.
Tho iam sure its super good enough lol
that's so weird. fast pull, strong. super slow pull, even stronger. slow but not super slow pull? weakest of the 3. wtf physics, make up your mind
best I can speculate is heat. fast pull is too fast for heat to build up, super slow is slow enough for it to dissipate, slowish pull is the awkward middle ground. would be curious to see a temp reading immediately after each test
Heat shouldn't take time to build up. Work done is force times distance. Time doesn't appear in the equation. You should have the same amount of heat produced regardless of the speed of the pull (although the super slow pull has time to dissipate that heat, so I agree that is probably why that is stronger).
My guess is that the drop test doesn't give it time to deform. With the slow pull, it deforms and is probably weaker in the deformed state, so it breaks. With the drop test, the force increases so quickly there isn't time for it to deform and you are testing the strength in the intended shape (or closer to it).
Titanium has some truly wonky work hardening characteristics. Put any heat into it, or stretch it quickly, and it gets much tougher. Makes it an absolute pain to machine as well. Something related to that is probably what's happening to it.
Great testing
An poorly thought out hypothesis as an engineer who works with titanium in situations with rapid heat fluctuations. I think two phenomena are at play:
1) Titanium generally has poor thermal conductivity. This means that if your heat has time to dissipate, you're golden. This could explain the slow vs medium response. The slow load is slow enough that heat spreads through the component then we might expect it to be as strong as a static load. The medium loading may be fast enough that heat generation is faster than heat dissipation.
2) The shock load from the drop test might be fast enough that the heat generation is "adiabatic". In cyclic loading of a structure, a main source of heat is created from stretching and releasing the intermolecular bonds (try pulling on a rubber band repeatedly and feel the temperature variation as it is stretched or relaxed). This means that the rapid load actually cools the metal, and heats up when the load is RELEASED, rather than heating up during loading as we might expect. Because of this, the temperature related loss of strength is mitigated against somewhat, and we have a higher load capacity than the medium load rate. In the medium load rate, we are applying enough load to plastically deform the metal. We are generating heat through friction-like processes rather than stretching the bonds, so the part heats up during the load.
All materials have a rate of strain characteristic and the graphs are readily available, for Ti-6Al-4V titanium we can see at a strain rate of 0.0001m/s you get a stress of 780MPa, at 1m/s it is 990MPa.
Some materials have very interesting characteristics, the alloy used in karabiners is one in particular leading to some interesting effects if you use an ill-designed drop test instead of the slow-pull specified in the standard.
With stainless steel you can change the test parameters to get massive changes in their breaking load, I've seen 33kN and over 45kN from identical bolts.
pro tip, break titanium in the dark... in SLOW MO
If the standard has been adopted as law in any jurisdiction you can probably get it for free.
is there any way to get these in europe?
They are products of Europe... Greece.
And that's why science and engineering usually is done after much studying and training 😅
2:34 i totally understand this feeling. ill be really stuck on a 3d model or desighn and be trying to refind my elements with information or math from papers; you find just the right paper or seemingly so and them my broke ass gets hit with a 200$ subscription pay wall to read one paper? im good on that haha
knowledge is for everybody but give us moneyyyyyyyy first XD
Are we not doing 'phrasing' anymore?
10mm, it said 10 mm pin?
Can not open, your store on iPad ,”no secure connection “
Are these tests pointless as they will never be put under those forces?
U know that bolt in the rock. So poor guy is gonna come chainsaw it up for fire wood and ruin his chain on that ti in there
"double it and add a little" - shouldn't it be "and remove a little"? You will get less than 2x because of friction, not more...
Is that 6AL-4V
Full description of the bolt and hanger is in the product link.
At the 6:24 second mark, Dude is standing in the triangle of death. Don’t stand there, please.
how many cameras have you loss to blow back?
please say something like "our system is _actually_ remarkable safe"