Hello, a tip... if doing all this service the engine continues with unstable idling or accelerating alone, change the 4 orings that go on the throttle body shaft (TBI)... the shaft has a small play in the bearings of The needle and the seal dry out over time, causing false air intake... almost nobody knows about this trick! good luck everyone, greetings from Brazil!
I discovered your video's last year, to say they're helpful is an understatement. Really great work and well done presentations that anyone should be able to understand. A really nice service that you and your videos offer and give to the rest of us Jeepers. Thanks.
My two cents worth...I went through two $11 Amazon China made TPS before finally getting a Mopar OEM, made in Mexico, TPS at $98, also from Amazon. So far no issues using the more expensive OEM. Love this channel, but wish I could post a pic of a a China made TPS next to a Mopar/Mexico TPS. You'd be surprised one fully incased with the other potted Give away for TPS issue is bucking in drive with up an down RPM in idle. Could be other issues, but that's the first I'd look at...
On testing potentiometers, I have a tech tip... If you can find a older analog multimeter like a Simpson to use, it makes it way easier to see the dip in the sweep...
@@JeepSolid yes there are about 400 franchises still operating. I looked it up!. I actually just went into a radioshack while I was in Tennessee a few weeks ago
Hi Dale, been watching your videos for years, thanks so much. Like Kevin below, I too have a 94 YJ w/ 72 k original miles that has a strong rich gas smell from exhaust. Never had CEL, no apparent leaks from aftermarket header. cat and exhaust system replaced 2 years ago. Have good gas mileage, idles well, starts immediately and I replaced O2 sensor two days ago, checked MAP (good voltage with decreasing voltage when vacuum applied), checked TPS with good results, did fuel injection pressure test with numbers slightly higher than your video (34 psi idle with 42 psi vacuum line disconnected, with no change with throttle applied). Cleaned throttle body per your video. No visible leaks from injectors, but after watching your video ordered new injectors just because and will install when they arrive. I have done "exhaustive" forum searches and out of ideas. Problem is above my pay grade and think I need a professional. It appears you might live in Oregon as I do and was hoping you might have a shop recommendation in the Bend area. Thanks again!
Great video, I'll test my TPS first before buying a new one. My 1998 TJ has an issue of when warmed after driving I'll put in neutral, and the engine takes off for about 2 seconds then settles down. Hoping it's the TPS.
My 99's throttle position sensor was throwing a code but it was my clock spring that was faulty sending a short to a shared ground in the PCM causing the TPS to malfunction. The codes wouldn't clear until I pulled the horn relay which confirmed the clock spring. Was causing idling, stalling issues, and acceleration issues.
What is the symptom of a dead spot? Like say driving at cruising speed and maintaining speed puts position at dead spot. I have two vehicles do the the same as above, but different symptom. One vehicle it will sputter until I change throttle position either by giving it more gas or a little less. The other vehicle will surge rpm until I change position up or down. First is cable 2nd is drive by wire.
New tps sensors are always reading lower, thats because the old tps is worn out. The older the sensor gets, the more the voltage climbs upwards. If it becomes more than 1v the computer stores an error code.
Great video, thank you! I have a question if you have time, I checked with multimeter and checks out good, no dead spots all the way. Is it still possible that the sensor is still bad? For reference, when I am driving, jeep always stalls at low speed (0-10mph) and at (40-45mph) when letting go of the pedal. If you press the pedal pass it certain rpm it stops stalling, and also won't do this at any other speeds. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Hello Jeep Solid - Curious what your symptoms were before you cleaned the Throttle Body & replaced the TPS? I'm having issues where the Jeep sometimes won't start (on the 1st try), especially after its been running for a while.
Hey I have a 2007 Jeep Patriot recently I replaced my throttle body it drove for a week. The lightning bolt has popped up again should I change my gas pedal to get it back running
2001 Grand Prix with a 3.1-liter motor, started idling high after good and warmed up. No codes at the time. When motor would idle too high, 4T65E trans would shift super late under light throttle. About 25 MPH and 2,500 RPM before it would hit 2nd. gear. Was OK the next day. 3rd. day, high idle and late shift again! This time the check engine light did come on. Code P0121. Scanner TPS angle percentage at idle shows 0 sometimes, and sometimes 0.39% and ~ 100% at WOT. One time while sitting there idling fine, ~ 700 RPM, all at once the idle kicked up to ~1,300 RPM all by itself. I looked at the scanner, now TPS angle percentage went up to 2.75%. From my readings it looks to me like the sensor IS receiving the 5V reference, and my ground in good, and my reference voltage is changing and being sent back to the ECM. My voltmeter is at my buddy's garage right now, so I could not do the voltage testing at the TPS connector, as you have outlined. I'm ready to take a chance based on my findings, and just install a new TPS. What do you think? Reply
My 97 4.0 tested perfectly and done as you did. But with a scan tool, with engine off it shows it’s 14% open. And when opening throttle body to wot it shows 77 percent. Could it test good but also have problems in the mechanical part of the sensor?
Yep. There’s what mine was doing. Ran fine. Then started bucking and skipping and not shifting into overdrive and idle went from 600 to 1500. I had to shut the ignition off and restart to reset it. Run the engine codes. You can do it yourself with just the key in ignition. I think it’s ignition on then off then on then off then on (3x) don’t start car any of the x, just ignition on off 3x and read the code displayed on your dash. It’s the same place where odometer is. It’ll show a p0122 or p0123. Both are tps is bad codes.
The signal in my sensor is sitting on 76. I’ve changed the sensor two times and they are giving the same number at 76. In the video is 87 as shown. Any advice.
I noticed on my throttle body that there's room to rotate/turn the TPS a bit. It looked you just stuck it on and screwed it in. And the meter started at 80ohms. Are we supposed to rotate the TPS to the lowest reading, THEN tighten? Or does it matter? It would be nice to see you add one of these 62mm complete throttle bodies! My project is a 01 Dakota with the 2.5 4cyl. And a common upgrade is to use the 4.0 T/B. So more would be better RIGHT?? 🙃
I just bought a XJ and the idle would sometimes go up and down but when it doesn’t it drives normal. It would also take a few cranks to start sometimes when the idle acts up. I tried to test the tps but I can’t get a reading on the plug unless I unclip it. How did you get a reading with it plugged in the tps? Also what brand TPs did you go with?
I’ve used a razor blade in the past. Just shave off a small portion of the wire and test it while running. I just changed mine out in my 4.0 grand Cherokee. I originally bought a $15 off amazon. Mechanic. Couldn’t get it to work. Then bought a most one for like $70. All symptoms gone inc light and skipping and bucking, erratic idle and transmission wasn’t shifting into overdrive
I'm having a tps issue I've changed it twice can't get the code to go off keeps coming back I direct grounded it to the battery but I'm still getting a circuit voltage low any help by chance would be deeply appreciated.
Hola saludos tengo una Grand cherokee modelo 95 ahorita se encuentra en el taller según en ingeniería automotriz me dijeron que el motor está jalando perfectamente bien todas las lecturas están correctas pero que la luz check engine no se apaga y el mecánico menciona que no la pudo apagar con el escáner entonces yo le hice el comentario que le pusieron otro TPS de otra Grand cherokee original que da una referencia de 0.86 milivoltios y la luz Chek engene se apagó sola ya no prendió crees que sea una referencia 0.42 demasiado baja como para que no pueda pagar la luz Chek engene o un sensor TPS demasiado corriente la mía es una Grand cherokee modelo 95 4.0 6 cilindros americana Se repara el fallo y la luz check engine sige prendida
@01:08 How do we know our car power supply reference for this throttle position sensor? My toyota crown super saloon 1991 MT, 1gfe, 2.00 CC need help, please give me the information. For add information, i get 12 volt on my TPS, is it normal or what?
hello when i manually move the throttle cable I go from 1.2 to 3.9..it does go up and down ok..is the 3.9 OK?? Some say it has to go to five..MY 98 KIA sportage revs to 3,000 RPMS upon COLD START then IF I DISCOONECT THE IAC VALVE it drops to 850 rpm which is normal..is IAC BAD??
he is back-probing it - typically using a sewing T-needle and sliding it next to the wire towards the connect until it makes contact with the wire terminal deeper inside
hello i have a 2000 Cherokee XJ i am getting code PO122 but i am having trouble with it not shifting to. plus i have code PO123 code PO121 and code P1494 the gas pedal dosen't have anything in the way of it. and the code P1494 isn't that probably comming from the Throttle Position Sensor ? thank you for your help Scott.
A little late but looks like he uses a sewing needle or T pin to poke into the wire behind the connector then uses an alligator clip to connect the meter to it
i sure wish i lived close to you. 1995 yj 2.5 low idle, and the local mechanics cant figure it out. when i bought it 4 months ago most of the sensors were originals. so i replaced them all, map, 02, iac, tps, air charge sensor, new plugs, wires, cap rotor and coil. when i first put the tps in it actually idled normal for about 10 mins then died back down to 300 rpm. and at temperature that is where it idles runs rough and has a miss. at speed seems to run fine. fuel rail pressure is at 31psi. I am stumped and wishing i had never bought it at this point. Any subjections??? any at all??? anyone?? other than sell it, to deep into it now for that.
@@JeepSolid that was my thoughts for sure. but i cannot find one. funny thing is even after warm. If you cut it off crank it again it idles normal for a minute or two then back down to 300rpm. trying my 3rd mechanic today. some of his family members drive 90s model jeeps so I'm hoping he is fimilure with them.
Hello, a tip... if doing all this service the engine continues with unstable idling or accelerating alone, change the 4 orings that go on the throttle body shaft (TBI)... the shaft has a small play in the bearings of The needle and the seal dry out over time, causing false air intake... almost nobody knows about this trick! good luck everyone, greetings from Brazil!
Have you ever came across 12v on your center wire? I have my 5v signal, ground but my middle wire is 12v. It changed when moving the throttle and stays 12v in middle terminal with the connector unplugged. This normal? Getting flash code 24
I read about the Clockspring getting shortwired and cause 12v supply to PCM...same issue as you have, it is because the Airbags operate on 12v, while the Cruise control works on 5v, if shortwired, the Airbag-positive can contact a Cruise control positive causing it to get 12v too.... check that as soon as possible, as it may fry your PCM one day or cause other damage to Electronics
Hi quick question - I have a 94 YJ and it has quite the rich smell - I have replaced the O2 sensor - and have wondered about the sensors you mentioned MAP, MAF, IAC, and TPS if changing them would help - or would I be better off looking for an exhaust leak? I have checked for any stored codes and there are none - any advice would be great. Are the other sensors "easy" to test as well with a multi meter? Thanks
ok, thats the wrong meter to use. a digital meter will average the reading giving a false good reading. using an analog meter will show intermittent voltages as the TPS moved. like an old dirty volume control
@@paulamelo3530 I use a high end meter, a simpson 360, there are cheaper ones in homedepot/lowes/amazon look at the reviews, connect as he does on the wire back of the connector and battery ground. you should see the voltage change smoothly not jumpy, you can also do this with the connector disconnected (no power)using resistance function of the meter.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello, a tip... if doing all this service the engine continues with unstable idling or accelerating alone, change the 4 orings that go on the throttle body shaft (TBI)... the shaft has a small play in the bearings of The needle and the seal dry out over time, causing false air intake... almost nobody knows about this trick! good luck everyone, greetings from Brazil!
I'm getting a DTC P2101 error on my FAW V2. Engine check light turned on and no acceleration.
@@MoeezAhmed Okay. And? What is your question?
@@Russell-rc6qq Question is, how to resolve it 😃
@@MoeezAhmed This is a challenging issue that you have. Were you able to solve it in the preceding month since initially posting?
I discovered your video's last year, to say they're helpful is an understatement. Really great work and well done presentations that anyone should be able to understand. A really nice service that you and your videos offer and give to the rest of us Jeepers. Thanks.
Great video and a guy who has a steady pace in explaining and working on a vehicle. Did my throttle body and TPS like new
After watching video i feel confident enough to wrench now 🔧🔧 Thank you Dale! 🙏
Hey Dale, good common-sense approach to solving that issue. I bet you get better gas mileage too!
My two cents worth...I went through two $11 Amazon China made TPS before finally getting a Mopar OEM, made in Mexico, TPS at $98, also from Amazon. So far no issues using the more expensive OEM. Love this channel, but wish I could post a pic of a a China made TPS next to a Mopar/Mexico TPS. You'd be surprised one fully incased with the other potted
Give away for TPS issue is bucking in drive with up an down RPM in idle. Could be other issues, but that's the first I'd look at...
On testing potentiometers, I have a tech tip... If you can find a older analog multimeter like a Simpson to use, it makes it way easier to see the dip in the sweep...
Very cool 👍
I have an old one from Radio Shack, it has a BIG ASS NEEDLE.
Oh, wow! That’s a blast from the past. Are there Radio Shacks around anymore??
@@JeepSolid The one near me in N.E. PA. closed about 8 years ago.
@@JeepSolid yes there are about 400 franchises still operating. I looked it up!. I actually just went into a radioshack while I was in Tennessee a few weeks ago
Hi Dale, been watching your videos for years, thanks so much. Like Kevin below, I too have a 94 YJ w/ 72 k original miles that has a strong rich gas smell from exhaust. Never had CEL, no apparent leaks from aftermarket header. cat and exhaust system replaced 2 years ago. Have good gas mileage, idles well, starts immediately and I replaced O2 sensor two days ago, checked MAP (good voltage with decreasing voltage when vacuum applied), checked TPS with good results, did fuel injection pressure test with numbers slightly higher than your video (34 psi idle with 42 psi vacuum line disconnected, with no change with throttle applied). Cleaned throttle body per your video. No visible leaks from injectors, but after watching your video ordered new injectors just because and will install when they arrive. I have done "exhaustive" forum searches and out of ideas. Problem is above my pay grade and think I need a professional. It appears you might live in Oregon as I do and was hoping you might have a shop recommendation in the Bend area. Thanks again!
Did you get it fixed?
Great video, I'll test my TPS first before buying a new one. My 1998 TJ has an issue of when warmed after driving I'll put in neutral, and the engine takes off for about 2 seconds then settles down. Hoping it's the TPS.
I like your bench you were cleaning the throttle body on, I have a couple of those myself.
lol Yep i have one of those portable benches they come in handy & if need a bigger bench ill just grab the neighbors to 👍
My 99's throttle position sensor was throwing a code but it was my clock spring that was faulty sending a short to a shared ground in the PCM causing the TPS to malfunction. The codes wouldn't clear until I pulled the horn relay which confirmed the clock spring. Was causing idling, stalling issues, and acceleration issues.
Ugh. Electrical gremlins can be a nightmare
Did you do that while it was running or just with the ignition on
It's cool how the throttle plays music
Great job Dale and great explanation as well . Keep up the great work my friend.
Thanks, will do!
Funny that this video popped up just after watching an Office Space video about TPS reports...
Very well and professional explained material! Easy to understand it!
So easy to understand how to do the job 🤟
I notice that your TPS is a fixed one (fixed position) , which since it's fixed/can't be wiggled it doesn't need to be calibrated!
Fixed tps just needs a Ecu reset, after reset, the Ecu will adapt the new shifting points according the new tps values.
What is the symptom of a dead spot? Like say driving at cruising speed and maintaining speed puts position at dead spot. I have two vehicles do the the same as above, but different symptom. One vehicle it will sputter until I change throttle position either by giving it more gas or a little less. The other vehicle will surge rpm until I change position up or down. First is cable 2nd is drive by wire.
New tps sensors are always reading lower, thats because the old tps is worn out.
The older the sensor gets, the more the voltage climbs upwards.
If it becomes more than 1v the computer stores an error code.
Great video, thank you! I have a question if you have time, I checked with multimeter and checks out good, no dead spots all the way. Is it still possible that the sensor is still bad? For reference, when I am driving, jeep always stalls at low speed (0-10mph) and at (40-45mph) when letting go of the pedal. If you press the pedal pass it certain rpm it stops stalling, and also won't do this at any other speeds. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
what are the chances. this is the exact car im doing research for. nice
I replaced the sensor but am still getting a code “throttle body sensor A high? Any thoughts?
Hello Jeep Solid - Curious what your symptoms were before you cleaned the Throttle Body & replaced the TPS? I'm having issues where the Jeep sometimes won't start (on the 1st try), especially after its been running for a while.
I need help I'm trying to calibrate my tps but I don't get any signal stil 0
Hey I have a 2007 Jeep Patriot recently I replaced my throttle body it drove for a week. The lightning bolt has popped up again should I change my gas pedal to get it back running
2001 Grand Prix with a 3.1-liter motor, started idling high after good and warmed up. No codes at the time.
When motor would idle too high, 4T65E trans would shift super late under light throttle. About 25 MPH and 2,500 RPM before it would hit 2nd. gear. Was OK the next day. 3rd. day, high idle and late shift again! This time the check engine light did come on. Code P0121. Scanner TPS angle percentage at idle shows 0 sometimes, and sometimes 0.39% and ~ 100% at WOT. One time while sitting there idling fine, ~ 700 RPM, all at once the idle kicked up to ~1,300 RPM all by itself. I looked at the scanner, now TPS angle percentage went up to 2.75%.
From my readings it looks to me like the sensor IS receiving the 5V reference, and my ground in good, and my reference voltage is changing and being sent back to the ECM. My voltmeter is at my buddy's garage right now, so I could not do the voltage testing at the TPS connector, as you have outlined.
I'm ready to take a chance based on my findings, and just install a new TPS.
What do you think?
Reply
My 97 4.0 tested perfectly and done as you did. But with a scan tool, with engine off it shows it’s 14% open. And when opening throttle body to wot it shows 77 percent. Could it test good but also have problems in the mechanical part of the sensor?
So ours will be driving fine and then the throttle will stop responding until you power off the car and start it back up. could it be the TPS?
Yep. There’s what mine was doing. Ran fine. Then started bucking and skipping and not shifting into overdrive and idle went from 600 to 1500. I had to shut the ignition off and restart to reset it. Run the engine codes. You can do it yourself with just the key in ignition. I think it’s ignition on then off then on then off then on (3x) don’t start car any of the x, just ignition on off 3x and read the code displayed on your dash. It’s the same place where odometer is. It’ll show a p0122 or p0123. Both are tps is bad codes.
The signal in my sensor is sitting on 76. I’ve changed the sensor two times and they are giving the same number at 76. In the video is 87 as shown. Any advice.
Brand new tps, and it’s still getting low voltage. Could it be the wiring?
Great video. What brand of TPS did you replace it with?
Thanks! I’ll have to double check brand
what if the voltage reads 0? mine is sometimes 0 and sometimes abit higher at idle, no pedal. Thoughts ?? thanks
Good work
❤❤EXCELLENT VIDEO THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOU KNOWLEDGE ❤
Hello, what about if the maximum is 1 volt. Is the issue is the sensor
mine maxed out at two
I noticed on my throttle body that there's room to rotate/turn the TPS a bit. It looked you just stuck it on and screwed it in.
And the meter started at 80ohms. Are we supposed to rotate the TPS to the lowest reading, THEN tighten? Or does it matter?
It would be nice to see you add one of these 62mm complete throttle bodies! My project is a 01 Dakota with the 2.5 4cyl. And
a common upgrade is to use the 4.0 T/B. So more would be better RIGHT?? 🙃
I wish you had shown a close up of unplugging it, mine will not unplug and I don't want to break it till after I test it.
Great video thanks for sharing
I just bought a XJ and the idle would sometimes go up and down but when it doesn’t it drives normal. It would also take a few cranks to start sometimes when the idle acts up.
I tried to test the tps but I can’t get a reading on the plug unless I unclip it. How did you get a reading with it plugged in the tps?
Also what brand TPs did you go with?
I’ve used a razor blade in the past. Just shave off a small portion of the wire and test it while running. I just changed mine out in my 4.0 grand Cherokee. I originally bought a $15 off amazon. Mechanic. Couldn’t get it to work. Then bought a most one for like $70. All symptoms gone inc light and skipping and bucking, erratic idle and transmission wasn’t shifting into overdrive
I'm having a tps issue I've changed it twice can't get the code to go off keeps coming back I direct grounded it to the battery but I'm still getting a circuit voltage low any help by chance would be deeply appreciated.
Hola saludos tengo una Grand cherokee modelo 95 ahorita se encuentra en el taller según en ingeniería automotriz me dijeron que el motor está jalando perfectamente bien todas las lecturas están correctas pero que la luz check engine no se apaga y el mecánico menciona que no la pudo apagar con el escáner entonces yo le hice el comentario que le pusieron otro TPS de otra Grand cherokee original que da una referencia de 0.86 milivoltios y la luz Chek engene se apagó sola ya no prendió crees que sea una referencia 0.42 demasiado baja como para que no pueda pagar la luz Chek engene o un sensor TPS demasiado corriente la mía es una Grand cherokee modelo 95 4.0 6 cilindros americana
Se repara el fallo y la luz check engine sige prendida
@01:08
How do we know our car power supply reference for this throttle position sensor?
My toyota crown super saloon 1991 MT, 1gfe, 2.00 CC need help, please give me the information.
For add information, i get 12 volt on my TPS, is it normal or what?
Thank you sir
hello when i manually move the throttle cable I go from 1.2 to 3.9..it does go up and down ok..is the 3.9 OK?? Some say it has to go to five..MY 98 KIA sportage revs to 3,000 RPMS upon COLD START then IF I DISCOONECT THE IAC VALVE it drops to 850 rpm which is normal..is IAC BAD??
How is he testing the throttle sensor? Is he touching the wires?
he is back-probing it - typically using a sewing T-needle and sliding it next to the wire towards the connect until it makes contact with the wire terminal deeper inside
hello i have a 2000 Cherokee XJ i am getting code PO122 but i am having trouble with it not shifting to. plus i have code PO123 code PO121 and code P1494 the gas pedal dosen't have anything in the way of it. and the code P1494 isn't that probably comming from the Throttle Position Sensor ? thank you for your help Scott.
Great tech tips
Thanks!
Hi
I love your videos
Would you please show how you conect multimeter to this sensor please.
A little late but looks like he uses a sewing needle or T pin to poke into the wire behind the connector then uses an alligator clip to connect the meter to it
My volts wont hold above 3.5. What does that mean?
i sure wish i lived close to you. 1995 yj 2.5 low idle, and the local mechanics cant figure it out. when i bought it 4 months ago most of the sensors were originals. so i replaced them all, map, 02, iac, tps, air charge sensor, new plugs, wires, cap rotor and coil. when i first put the tps in it actually idled normal for about 10 mins then died back down to 300 rpm. and at temperature that is where it idles runs rough and has a miss. at speed seems to run fine. fuel rail pressure is at 31psi. I am stumped and wishing i had never bought it at this point.
Any subjections??? any at all??? anyone?? other than sell it, to deep into it now for that.
Vacuum leak?
@@JeepSolid that was my thoughts for sure. but i cannot find one. funny thing is even after warm. If you cut it off crank it again it idles normal for a minute or two then back down to 300rpm. trying my 3rd mechanic today. some of his family members drive 90s model jeeps so I'm hoping he is fimilure with them.
Hello, a tip... if doing all this service the engine continues with unstable idling or accelerating alone, change the 4 orings that go on the throttle body shaft (TBI)... the shaft has a small play in the bearings of The needle and the seal dry out over time, causing false air intake... almost nobody knows about this trick! good luck everyone, greetings from Brazil!
Aren't you the guy who demo above ground pool from costco?
Haha! Yep. Jeeps and pools 😂
Have you ever came across 12v on your center wire? I have my 5v signal, ground but my middle wire is 12v. It changed when moving the throttle and stays 12v in middle terminal with the connector unplugged. This normal? Getting flash code 24
I read about the Clockspring getting shortwired and cause 12v supply to PCM...same issue as you have, it is because the Airbags operate on 12v, while the Cruise control works on 5v, if shortwired, the Airbag-positive can contact a Cruise control positive causing it to get 12v too.... check that as soon as possible, as it may fry your PCM one day or cause other damage to Electronics
Thank you.
Thanks
Where did you order the TPS from?
I believe you listed most of the posts EXCEPT the Main part you replaced! Lol
Amazon
@@sdriza i don't trust Amazon
Hi quick question - I have a 94 YJ and it has quite the rich smell - I have replaced the O2 sensor - and have wondered about the sensors you mentioned MAP, MAF, IAC, and TPS if changing them would help - or would I be better off looking for an exhaust leak? I have checked for any stored codes and there are none - any advice would be great. Are the other sensors "easy" to test as well with a multi meter? Thanks
Is your fuel economy terrible? Could be leaking injectors. Maybe see if the fuel pressure test. See if it holds pressure
I always prefer to test it with analog meter when removing tps outside and test for ohms variable reading ..it’s more visible. Fyi
ok, thats the wrong meter to use. a digital meter will average the reading giving a false good reading. using an analog meter will show intermittent voltages as the TPS moved. like an old dirty volume control
do you have a picture of a decent analog meter? and where exactly are we touching the wires? can't see it in the video
@@paulamelo3530 I use a high end meter, a simpson 360, there are cheaper ones in homedepot/lowes/amazon look at the reviews, connect as he does on the wire back of the connector and battery ground. you should see the voltage change smoothly not jumpy, you can also do this with the connector disconnected (no power)using resistance function of the meter.
That was great will do this to my 1989 Lincoln town car great video u explained it beautifully. Peteypecs 💪🫵