Side note, an old timer with about 15 SKIDOO sleds told me carburetor cleaner melts the little caged check ball so don't clean the carb with the check valve in the carb. I have bought two sleds that had the ball missing/broken/melted or whatever. I'd only been able to find the check balls as aviation parts for paramotors but I messaged on your website to try to buy some.
Thanks for the vids Louis! Your carb vids, and points and condenser vids are insanely helpful. I've got no fears of going through my 72 Nordic myself now. No doubt modern gas is nasty horrible quality stuff. Wish I had been around back when these old Doos were brand new.
Good video, I have had a ton of carb kits that come with those plugs but I have never replaced them because I had no idea what they did or why it was important to clean what was under them.
Thanks for the video I picked up a 76 skidoo Everest with a Tillotson it'll be the first one I'm doing I've done a lot of mikunis and kei gonna these are new to my I also have a 69 olypique I need to do too
HELP!!!!! I have a 2007 mxz renegade 600 and have a temp and engine light on. The temp guage is reading ok and everything seems to be running properly. these light a bugging me as i cant seem to find out why theyre on. any ideas?
Does an HL 129 have a check valve somewhere? It has one welch plug that I pulled but just passages under there. I rebuilt the carb but it won't pull gas.
Any chance could do a video on older primary clutches as in the comet duster 94c cant find anything on them and would like to get more info on them i got a 74 tnt 340 with a 440 sled was toast so i put it in my 78 340 olympic that nedd a heart and runs great but need a white 99ld spring but dunno any info on the pucks and cant find anywjere that sells them any help would be awsome love channel thnx
I have a 1970 Shovel with a Tillotson carbie. I have tried to rebuild the carbie as the bike wasn't running right coughing and spluttering all the time and starting it was a nightmare. I put a rebuild kit through it using the shop manual and thoroughly cleaned it and made sure of no leaks etc but it still wont start easy and pops and splutters at low rev. At idle when stopped at lights it revs high then drops to normal revs after a minute or so but it doesn't do it all the time. It also pops at low rev and then stalls but not all the time. This is driving me nuts.
I have that carburetor on my 1995 Mercury Force 70 o/b. I can't get it started without using starting fluid, and then it only runs for a second. I also have fresh gas coming out of the exhaust mixed with water. I am so frustrated! I wish I could send it to ya and you rebuild it!!
I have a carb off of an old TNT 440. The carb is an hd80a by stamping. Under the Welch plug the "ball valve" isnt a ball valve. I can't find anything that shows what that thing is, and I can't get the carb to do what it should. Help?
The way you leveled that tab can screw up the needle and seat. You should take another small screwdriver and use it to counteract the force you are putting on it. I learned all about pop off pressure carbs with my sea doo rotax 587 motors (super similar to rotax 583s in skidoos, just w/o rave valves.) if you have the wrong spring in, it can either flood your engine or make it run lean. Too light of a spring will flood it because gas tank pressure will overcome the pop off pressure and send gas into the carb. To heavy and it will not send gas into the carb when it needs it and it will run lean (if it runs at all.)
Do you have a video on a 79 250 Enticer carb rebuild video? Do you have parts for sale to rebuild one? I believe it’s a Keihin CDX 38-34 with the fuel pump on the bottom, stand pipe, etc. Take my money!
I have the HD series for the rotax 640, on a bombarder Alpine. I cannot find a decent kit with a needle and seat that seal properly they all leak and flood the otherwise great engine… can you help?
Help me out I got a polaris xlt 600 fresh gas new plugs and it's getting spark but won't start before it died it was bogging it was low on gas so I got more then it fired then died and now it won't start at all I'm so confused I put gas in the block and still nothing sprayed the carbs nothing it should at least what what start
Are you still selling the rebuild kits for these? Im trying to go to your website but for some reason it wont let me open it. Im looking for a kit for the HD37A. Thanks
I have a sachs 290 with tillotson hr114a and when the engine is cold it runs fine but it starts to idle high when it gets warm. i tried to adjust the lowjet but no success. i did put a new kit in it for the fuel pump but it was not a kit for the whole carb, just the pump. suggestions on what to check on it. It ran fine in the beginning of the season. The snowmobile is an Aktiv 290 Lång from 1978. swedish sled.
Rotax700 we have everything you need and ship to Sweden. Go to our website and fill out the contact form and tell us what you need and we will give you a quote.
I have a Polaris snowmobile and I hook up the throttle cable to the throttle assembly and it revs high and then I un hook it and it is find do you think i need a new throttle cable or adjust the idel
Sounds like the cable is adjusted too right. there should be a slight amount of slack. Note the cable adjustment is different than the idle adjustment screw.
Hello, thank you for the video, I have a HD-100A. in a 1973 645 Blizzard (3-Carbs), The left side PTO carb floods bit time, my check ball Valve doesn't have a slot to unscrew, only the HR has it, would you happen to know how to get it off so I can test it. thank you
No OEM Tillotson brand kits for the HD carbs, and the check valve is pressed in. I also would have pressure tested the carb and checked the pop off pressure.
@@PowerModzOfficial No, turns out it does have what they call the 'idle discharge ports' (scroll to bottom of link) which are those small holes under the second welch plug you took off but they only refer to the brass plug as 'the brass plug'...nothing more. Must be an un-used part of the casting...? Oh well, one less thing to worry about but still a bear to get started. Thnx all the same, great channel ! tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/techinfo_hl_us.pdf
I haven't found a kit that comes with welch plugs, I also have a 1971 valmont, and the engine in it does not have a pulse line for the carb, having trouble getting fuel to the carb. I believe some of these carbs don't use pulse lines, not sure.
andrew thomas Look at the mounting face of the carb, should have a little hole, that lines up with a port on the motor. That takes place of the pulse line.
+Gearheadtom thank u ,I saw that when I had apart wasn't sure if that's what it was,now I know thanks.iwas wondering y it didn't have a pulse hose hook up.
I was very interested watching your video. You are SO correct in saying that many carb kits are ABSOLUTE JUNK! Have you ever seen when you tighten the screw that holds the fulcrum arm and rod, that as you tighten that screw in it ends up pushing the needle down so far that it bottoms out not the needle end of the arm, but that other end which in turns ends up hitting the top of the carb? If I back the screw out some things are fine, but I can't imagine that is right.
No kidding, I will have to try that I guess. I measured the new needle and it actually is about a mm, maybe 2 longer then the old needle, thought that maybe was the issue. They are both uncaptive or non-captive needles too so that isn't the issue. Never seen one so out of adjustment before I guess.
Do all Tillotson carburetors have the check valve in there? I just rebuilt an HD 14a and I don't recall a check valve. However, I'm having problems with it flooding easily. I used the winderosa kit and now I'm scratching my head wondering why I'm getting so much fuel. Help!
I know I am years late to this party. I just picked up a $100 1978 Elan 250. The carb says HR 173A 633. Iv found a bunch of cheap kits but what one do you suggest. Thanks
I have a few questions. Are you sure that it is Stainless steel seat. Though it is chromed for kart motors running ethanol? What brand socket you are using. I have Bahco A7402DZ-5/16 and it has 11.4 OD and it is very tight. You are using Proto, 3/8"? Is that Winderosa set? I can not hear what you are saying that check valve cause flooding? Not sure about that. EC carb is saying that it is only for backfire. Valve looks like it is bought from there. I aslo can not hear model. I have 114A and look the same. You do not show pressure test. What you recommend? 10 psi? Very nice video!
I made my own socket - ground one down. Could be chrome plated but pretty sure stainless. I sell Tillotson genuine kits. No pressure test needed. if the check valve is stuck it'll flood and blow gas out the carb.
@@PowerModzOfficial I finaly get my Tilly work properly. I needed to order new shaft from Canada and install bushings to body. And make valve pop-up testing. Also original needles. After all that it work very nice. I mean seriously well. I needed to make special tool in turning workshop to get seat properly installed. I am now sure that shaft need to be in tolerances to have firm idle. Shutter is well machined to body. Also I am sure that you do mistake if you neglect valve testing. There is number of diferent springs to adjust valve opening. To have smooth operation in different loads got to have certain amount fuel in reserve. And one thing more. Check that you have fuel pump diaphragm. It is missing most of the sets. I can now say that it is a great carb. But also need three special tools to be rebuild. And if body is wear out, you need to have imperial reamer and bushings and shaft.
Do you sell carb rebuild kits or recommend where to get them? I have a Tillitson as well, but junk rebuild kit I don’t know what is good or bad anymore. Ready to give up on my restore of my Olympique 399 that I have totally rebuilt because of this carb.
Quick question…..have you ever ran a HR75A on a 247 single? I bought a elan as a basket case of parts and in the box was a rebuilt HR75A but I kno the single 247 should have a 73A. Im probably gonna just cross my fingers and roll with it but was curious if you have run them. Thanks
@@starionslider2116you can probably get it to run good by setting the high and low speed jets like Louis did in his other video. It may never be perfect as the little holes under the one welch plug were designed for a particular engine displacement. That 75A came off a 335, in case you didn't already know. It has a 1 9/32" venturi compared to the 1 3/16" venturi that the 73A, 133A and 173A had.
Dumb question but can you tell me what the fuel line, vacuum line and return line routing should be? I got a sled with no lines and need to make sure I route them correctly
you bought from me? if so who are you and just email me, I sell genuine tillotson kits. I did sell one HD kit that I told the customer was new old stock from a dealer. all my tillotson kits come with welch plugs.
@@PowerModzOfficial I own a 69 Arctic cat panther with a hp18a tiliston carb ...do you have the proper rebuild kit for this & what is the price ...thanks
Can I ask a question.. What is the difference between let's say a 42 grams pressure spring and a 48 grams pressure spring in terms of the function of the carburetor, will it have less fuel with the 48 grams and the response of the engine is more crisp? Anybody? Thanks in advance
I’m restoring a 1970 Arctic Cat Panther and I need a kit for my tilly on it, I’m in Vermont, USA, where can I get a kit to replace the ball valve and plug? The pump rubber and diaphragms all look to be in great shape, but if the hood kits come with all new I’ll replace em.
use fuel stabilizer when stored it will eliminate 99 percent of carb issues,the green and corrosan issues didn't start until unleaded fuels were introduced.
I think you’re right there. My grandpa bought a wheel horse safari in 1969 and we used it without fail for decades. It wasn’t until about 2002 that it began having runability issues. It went dangerously lean while on a long ride away from home and the Kohler 309 suffered a piston meltdown. I was able to remove the piston and successfully dislodged the rings, polished it up, and ran it successfully for a few more years but it got to the point that the running issues couldn’t be resolved with the adjustment screws. I’ve since completed a full rebuild on the top and bottom end and the carb has required numerous rebuilds. Last year, I put a few hundred miles on the old Wheel Horse and it ran flawlessly. This year, it runs awful and pops and backfires under any load. No amount of adjustment can make it any better. Another year and another $50 Tillotson OEM carb kit. It has to be the gas. It’s the only common denominator. Running Ethel free gas doesn’t seem to make much difference on the longevity of the carburetor. The slide carbs on my newer machines seem to tolerate the new gas without much issue but the pumper carbs do not.
@Adam if you are anywhere near an airport, they will sell you avgas 100LL. Mix it 50/50 with 91 and add a little fuel stabilizer. Its a bit more than 91 pump Gas but saves the fuel system in the premix tilly engines.
Yup even for the last run of season on avgas so its in the fuel system for the summer you will be golden. They tend to only fill metal cans fyi. My 1st trip was unsuccessful as i had a plastic gas can.
Hi Louie, tried to email you and not sure it got through. I'm from the Eastern Townships in Quebec and recently got a 250cc Elan. It's got a Tillotson and I'm looking fer a carb kit! Still have some laying around?
Im waay to poor to be able to buy a new track for my old modded enticer, and its lugs are really short, would studs actually help improve its traction, making me able to go in somewhat deeper powder?
Sheesh Lewy stop being so cheap get a new drill bit or sharpen that sucker !! And ha and dont use the old needle to pry out the welch plug Ok yer fired ha !!JUST jokin BUD awesome vid! awesome tips and advise helped my old ROTAXS OUT HUGE!!!
hey can you look at my ski doo video please something is going wrong with my summit and i have no clue took it to my local ski doo dealer and they said it was a battery and it wasnt then they said it was the teather and it was not then they said it was the kill switch and it was not needless to say alot of $$$$$ later im still stuck with a down ski doo
The very best thing you can do to prevent trouble with ANY small engine carb is to use Ethanol free gas which is usually high test and great for your engine :) Also like he said, Use a stabilizer and if possible start the engine every few months to flow fresh gas through.
Could you please send me the link to where you bought your rebuild kit? I can't get my new Olympic going and I'm 1000% sure it needs a carb rebuild kit. Btw if you saw my Elan could you tell me the year? Mine didn't come with a Date Of Birth. It's 1970s for sure. I'd love to get together and go riding, we could get a bunch of those things together and make "the march of the Elans" just cause they're the best.
@@PowerModzOfficial I can’t figure your sight out to order from you man send me a link,I live in nb trying to get 72 Olympic going but kimpex won’t ship to house on there sight for other things lol
I never liked these, i had twin 77 nuviks one had a mikuni = ran beautiful! The other had one of these carbs- never ran or it ran like garbage, never idled, if i could keep it going, it bogged under throttle. Had it rebuilt several times. Tore it off put a mukini (cant spell it grammer nazis) anyhow with the mukini it ran beautiful!
skidoo princess4life like I said its because it was never rebuilt right. Side by side 2 elan 250s..one with a tillotson and one with a mikuni the tillotson will run way better than the mikuni
PowerModz i wouldn't doubt it, my granddad bought them in 77, the year i was born. And i bought them off of him when i was 17. But i always remember him having issues right from the day he bought them. (Issues with the tiltson only)
Side note, an old timer with about 15 SKIDOO sleds told me carburetor cleaner melts the little caged check ball so don't clean the carb with the check valve in the carb. I have bought two sleds that had the ball missing/broken/melted or whatever. I'd only been able to find the check balls as aviation parts for paramotors but I messaged on your website to try to buy some.
Cheers from British Columbia great informative videos. The safety squint was awesome
Love these videos great background noise when I'm working on the mod tundra 2 out in the shed keep putting em out boys
Good video Thanks for the tips This was good stuff to know for my 73 .
Super helpful video ! Just put together the HR74A for my JLO 295cc. Thanks man !
Thanks for the vids Louis! Your carb vids, and points and condenser vids are insanely helpful. I've got no fears of going through my 72 Nordic myself now. No doubt modern gas is nasty horrible quality stuff. Wish I had been around back when these old Doos were brand new.
Good video, I have had a ton of carb kits that come with those plugs but I have never replaced them because I had no idea what they did or why it was important to clean what was under them.
Thanks, good rendering from a partly grown guy...
I will make good use of it :-)
Thanks for the video I picked up a 76 skidoo Everest with a Tillotson it'll be the first one I'm doing I've done a lot of mikunis and kei gonna these are new to my I also have a 69 olypique I need to do too
YES!!! Finally a source for those bloody check valves! Will be contacting P M soon!
HELP!!!!! I have a 2007 mxz renegade 600 and have a temp and engine light on. The temp guage is reading ok and everything seems to be running properly. these light a bugging me as i cant seem to find out why theyre on. any ideas?
Great info thanks
No problem!
Does an HL 129 have a check valve somewhere? It has one welch plug that I pulled but just passages under there. I rebuilt the carb but it won't pull gas.
Any chance could do a video on older primary clutches as in the comet duster 94c cant find anything on them and would like to get more info on them i got a 74 tnt 340 with a 440 sled was toast so i put it in my 78 340 olympic that nedd a heart and runs great but need a white 99ld spring but dunno any info on the pucks and cant find anywjere that sells them any help would be awsome love channel thnx
I have a 1970 Shovel with a Tillotson carbie. I have tried to rebuild the carbie as the bike wasn't running right coughing and spluttering all the time and starting it was a nightmare. I put a rebuild kit through it using the shop manual and thoroughly cleaned it and made sure of no leaks etc but it still wont start easy and pops and splutters at low rev. At idle when stopped at lights it revs high then drops to normal revs after a minute or so but it doesn't do it all the time. It also pops at low rev and then stalls but not all the time. This is driving me nuts.
Got a totally seized carbeurator on one of these. Any suggestions for a new one?
I have that carburetor on my 1995 Mercury Force 70 o/b. I can't get it started without using starting fluid, and then it only runs for a second. I also have fresh gas coming out of the exhaust mixed with water. I am so frustrated! I wish I could send it to ya and you rebuild it!!
Do you have a rebuild video for a RK-23HS Carb that is on a Husky 181 chain saw
I have a carb off of an old TNT 440. The carb is an hd80a by stamping. Under the Welch plug the "ball valve" isnt a ball valve. I can't find anything that shows what that thing is, and I can't get the carb to do what it should.
Help?
The way you leveled that tab can screw up the needle and seat. You should take another small screwdriver and use it to counteract the force you are putting on it. I learned all about pop off pressure carbs with my sea doo rotax 587 motors (super similar to rotax 583s in skidoos, just w/o rave valves.) if you have the wrong spring in, it can either flood your engine or make it run lean. Too light of a spring will flood it because gas tank pressure will overcome the pop off pressure and send gas into the carb. To heavy and it will not send gas into the carb when it needs it and it will run lean (if it runs at all.)
Do you have a video on a 79 250 Enticer carb rebuild video? Do you have parts for sale to rebuild one?
I believe it’s a Keihin CDX 38-34 with the fuel pump on the bottom, stand pipe, etc.
Take my money!
How do i get one of these high quality rebuild kits? I have a tillotson HR19A.
Poor camera has been spending more time trying to focus than in focus lately lol. Great vid content as usual. :)
I have the HD series for the rotax 640, on a bombarder Alpine. I cannot find a decent kit with a needle and seat that seal properly they all leak and flood the otherwise great engine… can you help?
Help me out I got a polaris xlt 600 fresh gas new plugs and it's getting spark but won't start before it died it was bogging it was low on gas so I got more then it fired then died and now it won't start at all I'm so confused I put gas in the block and still nothing sprayed the carbs nothing it should at least what what start
Are you still selling the rebuild kits for these? Im trying to go to your website but for some reason it wont let me open it. Im looking for a kit for the HD37A. Thanks
Great video. Very informative. Face shield was hanging not two feet away from you. Should really use it!
Where did you buy this carburetor parts.?
where can we get the ball valves all the kits I've seen don't have them and I can't find them anywhere please help!!!!!!!!
Help me out I have a 2013 Polaris rmk. I have the option to pick between ggb mountain can or jaws can. which exhaust would you pick?
Jaws
Thx for all your vids !! Very useful. But where I can find HR7a tillotson new parts ? I look with this number but find nothing. (I am in canada)
Im in ottawa - go to my website and contact me ill get you what you need.
I have a sachs 290 with tillotson hr114a and when the engine is cold it runs fine but it starts to idle high when it gets warm. i tried to adjust the lowjet but no success. i did put a new kit in it for the fuel pump but it was not a kit for the whole carb, just the pump. suggestions on what to check on it. It ran fine in the beginning of the season. The snowmobile is an Aktiv 290 Lång from 1978. swedish sled.
Rotax700 yes my suggestion is to rebuild the kit the way I show it in every video and tell everyone.....do the whole thing with original parts.
PowerModz Ok my problem is that it’s hard to find parts for it in sweden where i live.
Rotax700 we have everything you need and ship to Sweden. Go to our website and fill out the contact form and tell us what you need and we will give you a quote.
I have a Polaris snowmobile and I hook up the throttle cable to the throttle assembly and it revs high and then I un hook it and it is find do you think i need a new throttle cable or adjust the idel
Sounds like the cable is adjusted too right. there should be a slight amount of slack. Note the cable adjustment is different than the idle adjustment screw.
Hello, thank you for the video, I have a HD-100A. in a 1973 645 Blizzard (3-Carbs), The left side PTO carb floods bit time, my check ball Valve doesn't have a slot to unscrew, only the HR has it, would you happen to know how to get it off so I can test it. thank you
Late to the game but take off the welch plug use a punch and drive it up out the top of the carb. Small taps it will come out. Reinstall same way.
Just about to rebuild m'y first carb, its for my 71 elan any tips for beginner I have order the Best kit I could find
I have done it, its start way better now and run Just like New except it wont idle
Is the an oem kit for a HD14A?
No OEM Tillotson brand kits for the HD carbs, and the check valve is pressed in. I also would have pressure tested the carb and checked the pop off pressure.
dont need to test it - they are originals..in the couple of hundred kits ive done I have never had an issue with tillotson original springs.
@@PowerModzOfficial so dont need to do pop up pressure?
@@rushking19 maybe if you are using old parts - I just rebuild them and they all work.
@@PowerModzOfficial ok so if I get a rebuild kit with new springs I will be fine?
@@rushking19 you gotta rebuild it right though yes.
Does the HL-320 have a check valve...? No noise when shaken. There's only one welch plug and a small 1/32" brass plug where your check valve was...
Hmm im pretty sure yes - remove the plug and see
@@PowerModzOfficial No, turns out it does have what they call the 'idle discharge ports' (scroll to bottom of link) which are those small holes under the second welch plug you took off but they only refer to the brass plug as 'the brass plug'...nothing more. Must be an un-used part of the casting...? Oh well, one less thing to worry about but still a bear to get started. Thnx all the same, great channel !
tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/techinfo_hl_us.pdf
I haven't found a kit that comes with welch plugs, I also have a 1971 valmont, and the engine in it does not have a pulse line for the carb, having trouble getting fuel to the carb. I believe some of these carbs don't use pulse lines, not sure.
andrew thomas Look at the mounting face of the carb, should have a little hole, that lines up with a port on the motor. That takes place of the pulse line.
+Gearheadtom thank u ,I saw that when I had apart wasn't sure if that's what it was,now I know thanks.iwas wondering y it didn't have a pulse hose hook up.
Is a hr30A a pulse carb? And I see nowhere to hook a return line to the gas tank does it have a return?
it depends if they put a pulse in the carb - 2 plates or 3?
Safety squinting! Lol another nod to my other favorite Canadian!
I was very interested watching your video. You are SO correct in saying that many carb kits are ABSOLUTE JUNK! Have you ever seen when you tighten the screw that holds the fulcrum arm and rod, that as you tighten that screw in it ends up pushing the needle down so far that it bottoms out not the needle end of the arm, but that other end which in turns ends up hitting the top of the carb? If I back the screw out some things are fine, but I can't imagine that is right.
yes - you just bend the tab so it doesnt do that
No kidding, I will have to try that I guess. I measured the new needle and it actually is about a mm, maybe 2 longer then the old needle, thought that maybe was the issue. They are both uncaptive or non-captive needles too so that isn't the issue. Never seen one so out of adjustment before I guess.
@@simonkrystosek7122 oh I see...yes you cant use that long needle....that's not going to work for you
Do you have the proper needle and seat for a HL289A for a 303 Wankel I can buy?
Do all Tillotson carburetors have the check valve in there? I just rebuilt an HD 14a and I don't recall a check valve. However, I'm having problems with it flooding easily. I used the winderosa kit and now I'm scratching my head wondering why I'm getting so much fuel. Help!
Under the highspeed welch plug is the check valve. Hd you have to use a punch and drive it out
Gbd distribution in quebec selle new hd check valves.
I know I am years late to this party.
I just picked up a $100 1978 Elan 250. The carb says HR 173A 633. Iv found a bunch of cheap kits but what one do you suggest. Thanks
Not sure if Louie still sells them but GB Distribution has all the good stuff
Hey great stuff . I need a kit for a Hr17b
Hi quality ove course.
Can you help me ?
I tried that Louie, the drill bit grabbed when it broke through the plug and drilled into the carb ruining the carb porting holes. what a disaster.
ya you gotta go slow!
I have a few questions. Are you sure that it is Stainless steel seat. Though it is chromed for kart motors running ethanol? What brand socket you are using. I have Bahco A7402DZ-5/16 and it has 11.4 OD and it is very tight. You are using Proto, 3/8"? Is that Winderosa set? I can not hear what you are saying that check valve cause flooding? Not sure about that. EC carb is saying that it is only for backfire. Valve looks like it is bought from there. I aslo can not hear model. I have 114A and look the same. You do not show pressure test. What you recommend? 10 psi? Very nice video!
I made my own socket - ground one down. Could be chrome plated but pretty sure stainless. I sell Tillotson genuine kits. No pressure test needed. if the check valve is stuck it'll flood and blow gas out the carb.
@@PowerModzOfficial I finaly get my Tilly work properly. I needed to order new shaft from Canada and install bushings to body. And make valve pop-up testing. Also original needles. After all that it work very nice. I mean seriously well. I needed to make special tool in turning workshop to get seat properly installed. I am now sure that shaft need to be in tolerances to have firm idle. Shutter is well machined to body. Also I am sure that you do mistake if you neglect valve testing. There is number of diferent springs to adjust valve opening. To have smooth operation in different loads got to have certain amount fuel in reserve. And one thing more. Check that you have fuel pump diaphragm. It is missing most of the sets. I can now say that it is a great carb. But also need three special tools to be rebuild. And if body is wear out, you need to have imperial reamer and bushings and shaft.
Do you sell carb rebuild kits or recommend where to get them? I have a Tillitson as well, but junk rebuild kit I don’t know what is good or bad anymore. Ready to give up on my restore of my Olympique 399 that I have totally rebuilt because of this carb.
yes I sell original tillotson kits
@@PowerModzOfficial I need one for a HD 148a carb how do I order
Good video, how do I order a carb kit@@PowerModzOfficial
Quick question…..have you ever ran a HR75A on a 247 single? I bought a elan as a basket case of parts and in the box was a rebuilt HR75A but I kno the single 247 should have a 73A. Im probably gonna just cross my fingers and roll with it but was curious if you have run them. Thanks
There's a chart online of what will work. - google it!
@@PowerModzOfficial the chart only says what came stock. The 73A. No other options listed.
@@starionslider2116you can probably get it to run good by setting the high and low speed jets like Louis did in his other video. It may never be perfect as the little holes under the one welch plug were designed for a particular engine displacement. That 75A came off a 335, in case you didn't already know. It has a 1 9/32" venturi compared to the 1 3/16" venturi that the 73A, 133A and 173A had.
Dumb question but can you tell me what the fuel line, vacuum line and return line routing should be? I got a sled with no lines and need to make sure I route them correctly
Have you figured it out?
Can't access your website because the internet says it is not secure - not set up correctly.
Merry Christmas
I am new to tillys and have a few questions how can I reach you and do you have the time to share some knowledge. Thanks
Hit me up thru powermodz .com
There was no welch plugs in the tillotson carb kit I bought, it came with the winderosa diaphragm and gasket kit
you bought from me? if so who are you and just email me, I sell genuine tillotson kits. I did sell one HD kit that I told the customer was new old stock from a dealer. all my tillotson kits come with welch plugs.
No, I think I got it from Goose, the package that was marked Tillotson only had the needle valve, seat, copper washer and arm.
@@PowerModzOfficial I own a 69 Arctic cat panther with a hp18a tiliston carb ...do you have the proper rebuild kit for this & what is the price ...thanks
Can I ask a question..
What is the difference between let's say a 42 grams pressure spring and a 48 grams pressure spring in terms of the function of the carburetor, will it have less fuel with the 48 grams and the response of the engine is more crisp? Anybody?
Thanks in advance
just buy the proper spring - no need to measure
I’m restoring a 1970 Arctic Cat Panther and I need a kit for my tilly on it, I’m in Vermont, USA, where can I get a kit to replace the ball valve and plug? The pump rubber and diaphragms all look to be in great shape, but if the hood kits come with all new I’ll replace em.
GB Distribution in Quebec has kits if power mods doesn't
@@ontariosfinest8971 anybody in the US? I can get them from Amazon but not sure if those ones are a ‘good’ kit or not. My Cat uses the HD size tilly
@@gallupcustomknives2293 EC Carburetors. I've never purchased anything from them but they have an impressive website as far as carb parts go
use fuel stabilizer when stored it will eliminate 99 percent of carb issues,the green and corrosan issues didn't start until unleaded fuels were introduced.
I think you’re right there. My grandpa bought a wheel horse safari in 1969 and we used it without fail for decades. It wasn’t until about 2002 that it began having runability issues. It went dangerously lean while on a long ride away from home and the Kohler 309 suffered a piston meltdown. I was able to remove the piston and successfully dislodged the rings, polished it up, and ran it successfully for a few more years but it got to the point that the running issues couldn’t be resolved with the adjustment screws. I’ve since completed a full rebuild on the top and bottom end and the carb has required numerous rebuilds. Last year, I put a few hundred miles on the old Wheel Horse and it ran flawlessly. This year, it runs awful and pops and backfires under any load. No amount of adjustment can make it any better. Another year and another $50 Tillotson OEM carb kit. It has to be the gas. It’s the only common denominator. Running Ethel free gas doesn’t seem to make much difference on the longevity of the carburetor. The slide carbs on my newer machines seem to tolerate the new gas without much issue but the pumper carbs do not.
@Adam if you are anywhere near an airport, they will sell you avgas 100LL. Mix it 50/50 with 91 and add a little fuel stabilizer. Its a bit more than 91 pump
Gas but saves the fuel system in the premix tilly engines.
@@rpmmustang89
In fact, there is a rather large airport only 12 miles away! That’s good thinking. I should try that :)
Yup even for the last run of season on avgas so its in the fuel system for the summer you will be golden. They tend to only fill metal cans fyi. My 1st trip was unsuccessful as i had a plastic gas can.
Mill fdd DDS,
Help! Trying to find a carb kit for a tillotson hd106a.
Sorry we dont have them for the HD
There is always some crap behind those welch plugs.
Hi Louie, tried to email you and not sure it got through. I'm from the Eastern Townships in Quebec and recently got a 250cc Elan. It's got a Tillotson and I'm looking fer a carb kit! Still have some laying around?
Yes i do - please email me at Lshobie at yahoo dot com
Im waay to poor to be able to buy a new track for my old modded enticer, and its lugs are really short, would studs actually help improve its traction, making me able to go in somewhat deeper powder?
Mew_ studs wont up in powder but screw in igrip studs will give more traction. I sell igrip studs if you need them.
I like your video's .do uou know Dave skibo?
No sorry
Is Shellbourne still hooking you up with the good stuff? Your carbs shouldn't look like that.
Sheesh Lewy stop being so cheap get a new drill bit or sharpen that sucker !!
And ha and dont use the old needle to pry out the welch plug Ok yer fired ha !!JUST jokin BUD awesome vid!
awesome tips and advise helped my old ROTAXS OUT HUGE!!!
Where can i order the parts?
Hello. I am looking for a check valve, the press in type for HD 53
Gbd distribution in quebec has hd check valves
Return/ overflow
When are you going to ride
on your site picture for HR rebuilt kit is not like my HR did i get what i see or picture is wrong i own a hr74a
Id have to see it
hey can you look at my ski doo video please something is going wrong with my summit and i have no clue took it to my local ski doo dealer and they said it was a battery and it wasnt then they said it was the teather and it was not then they said it was the kill switch and it was not needless to say alot of $$$$$ later im still stuck with a down ski doo
how do we prevent or reduce varnish?
A good fuel stabilizer might do it - but its tough. Best thing is fresh gas or a flush.
The very best thing you can do to prevent trouble with ANY small engine carb is to use Ethanol free gas which is usually high test and great for your engine :) Also like he said, Use a stabilizer and if possible start the engine every few months to flow fresh gas through.
Run some GM penetrating fluid on the last ride of the season it is good for cleaning gunk and preventing it and it lubes the whole engine good
Could you please send me the link to where you bought your rebuild kit? I can't get my new Olympic going and I'm 1000% sure it needs a carb rebuild kit. Btw if you saw my Elan could you tell me the year? Mine didn't come with a Date Of Birth. It's 1970s for sure. I'd love to get together and go riding, we could get a bunch of those things together and make "the march of the Elans" just cause they're the best.
I sell them,
You sell Elans? Or rebuild kits.
sometimes both@@vaughndelay6190
Ok so how do I buy a carb kit off you? I'm in BC :/
@@vaughndelay6190 email me my contact form on www.powermodz.com - ill set you up! we are in ottawa
Where ya buy filter at?
I sell them
@@PowerModzOfficial I can’t figure your sight out to order from you man send me a link,I live in nb trying to get 72 Olympic going but kimpex won’t ship to house on there sight for other things lol
I would like to buy 2 quality kits for 299 and 335 please ?
pat
hi pat! just go to www.powermodz.com and hit my contact form to tell me what u want and ill make it happen. louie
am I blind? I cant find card parts on your website.
We have thousands of parts to add - they are coming.
Now you know why people turn to the mikuni carbs. To much carp that can go wrong and to much work to fix in the field or at the race track.
so if parts are hard to find why don't you supply links to where you buy your parts so people can find the parts you are using?
Because sources pop up and close down again...it's not consistant.
Did you forgot a gasket?
Dont think so
no carb parts on web page
pm me
I never liked these, i had twin 77 nuviks one had a mikuni = ran beautiful!
The other had one of these carbs- never ran or it ran like garbage, never idled, if i could keep it going, it bogged under throttle. Had it rebuilt several times. Tore it off put a mukini (cant spell it grammer nazis) anyhow with the mukini it ran beautiful!
skidoo princess4life like I said its because it was never rebuilt right. Side by side 2 elan 250s..one with a tillotson and one with a mikuni the tillotson will run way better than the mikuni
PowerModz i wouldn't doubt it, my granddad bought them in 77, the year i was born. And i bought them off of him when i was 17. But i always remember him having issues right from the day he bought them. (Issues with the tiltson only)
Specifically how do i get a high quality check valve? The ones i get dont seem to be that great.