Tillotson HS Series Carburetor Repair Homelite & Other Chainsaws
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ย. 2019
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This basic procedure should work for any Tillotson HS carburetor. There might be minor differences, but the important elements should be covered in this video.
I have 2 Super XLs im about to go through. This will help greaty. Thanks
This is by far the best video on the HS carb on here. Shows proper gasket orientation AND real world problems that can come up. Leon does NOT edit out problems, he shows how to fix them. These are things that happen ALL the time....great video.
you are metering out pure gold for us power saw enthusiasts...thanks for great content so generously shared!
Thanks for this Leon .
thank you for sharing, sir. you make it look so easy when you slip that needle back in to place
Thanks so much, I had exactly the same problem, exactly. Tried a new spring and she worked great. Thanks for the excellent lesson.
What a fantastic video! Thank you Leon
GREAT informative video!
Great series of videos of their Leon you got to watch using carb cleaner
I clean the fuel needle seat with a q-tip and a little polishing compound. Give the q-tip a few spins and it polishes the seat. It will hold pressure afterward.
Good tip, I'll remember that!
I saw another fellow put the q-tip in his drill.
Happy belated birthday big guy! I'm sure the wife and kids made it a great one for ya!
Excellent idea for a series...should prove to be very helpful. Good closeups.
Thanks!
outstanding vid packed with useful info
Great idea Leon
Thanks Leon! Rebuilt mine using this video. Very helpful with the diaphragms because my original one glued itself to it's gasket and I couldn't see that there was a layer system in place. Would have done it wrong if it wasn't for you
Thank you so much for this. I have an old homelite super xl that ive been fighting for 3 days and can not figure why it was flooding so bad and i couldnt get it to run properly at all. Ive already for a few minor mistakes when i rebuilt my carb that im going to fix. Excellent video and explanation!!
First off. This video sent me down the right path on fixing my Pioneer 1200A. I HAD TO STRETCH THE SPRING OUT! Needle was not staying seated.
But, I have to say. For the HS series carbs, the metering lever has to be level with the CHAMBER FLOOR. Not the deck minus gasket as he is describing. Simple mistake, I understand you cant memorize every carb spec. Once again thank you for the video!
I don't know which is the chamber floor and which is the deck elaborate please
super video. thank you...
excellent,,thanks for explaining what the whelch plugs are for
Got 5 more to get runing pluss I'm getting a late 70s super xl that locked up since 1981 saw looks new been stored 40 years
U helped great video
I just rebuilt my homlite xl12 runs like a new one now
The tillotson carburetor working on it also has a small atomizer screen underneath the small Welch plug on the hijet side it's a super super fine
Iv got 2 tilistons with the big barb fitting and I got 3 that smaller
Thanks for the great video. How about a Zama carb rebuild for a future video?
very interested in the pressure testing setup you have. could you possibly make a video about it?
Thanks for your videos. I reference them if I have any questions. In this video you mention that the springs are hard to come by. I had my Homelite Super XL AO carb apart for a rebuild today and the spring looked familiar. I checked the tumbler springs in a Schlage lock rekey kit I scored when a home center went out of business. They appear identical. Next time you have trouble finding one your local locksmith may be able to help.
You would need to test the springs to be sure the correct length pushes the same.
Hi, thanks for this great video. I’m working on a Tillotson HT14A that have leaking issues. Question: How many BAR / PSI should the carb hold when testing it? I don’t have a carb pressure tester but a bike pump with a gauge .
Hey leon,
I have a Tillotson like the one in the vid. I'm having problems on the low side, saw is finding. I've put a new kit in and can't seem to get it to run right. Have pulled it all apart and spray inlet holes with carb cleaner and all holes are open. Cleaned screen on intake side. Any ideas why saw could be finding on low side? Runs great on High side. Also have clean new fuel. Do you recommend using high octnae gas for these older saws? I have an old harley that imrun 93 octane with. I think i have 87 in the saw now.Thks
Hey ! The small welch plugg. Is that not a one way valve function ? And the rubber plate inside there...is that not ofthen worn away or smulderet away...due to long time and rubber tends to smulder after time goes buy or might be ethanol damaged it... So if the little rubber plate...is gone...or in peaces...leaking...the one way valve system is not working. You than need to open the small welch plug and put a new rubber valve plate in there... Taking out the small clip and down with the rubber plate and than back with the little clip....so you hopefully have a much needed one way valve function. If this function is not there...you whole carburetor will not work...despite everything else is ship shape....was what i fugured out. On those old carburetor...i suspect that is a common issue and problem. ! ? Jostein from Norway and Sweden here.
This is a newbie question. My first carb work on these saws. The carb I’m putting new diaphragm and gaskets in is a 256A from a JRed 630 Super2.
When putting the diaphragm on the needle side, does that metal knob sit under that arm as does it sit on top of the arm?
The inlet on my Pioneer 1200a is smooth with no barbs. The hole they provided in the housing for to the fuel line to pass through doesn't line up with the inlet, and makes it a bugger to get the hose on.
I think the Needle & Spring problem-- is exactly what I'm battling... Everything looks good.. 🤷
The tip was off I can tell nice video. What metering gauge do you use Walbro and Zama gauge ? Nice video
I have a Tillotson HS-30A carb which I took off a Poulan Model 361 chain saw. I have put a new gasket & diapham kit in it. I took it apart twice because the first time I did not have the spring in the correct position and fuel was leaking from the muffler. The problem after the cleaning and rebuild the saw runs sparactic and then shuts off. I have the Low adjustment 1 full turn out and the High 1- 1/4. I found Poulan specs which indicates this saw should have a Tillotson HS-59A B. Would this matter. Is there anything else I should check. This is the first chain saw I have cleaned and rebuilt that has given me trouble. All others have worked fine once installed back on the saw.
So if I used starting fluid or carb cleaner on the meter side I ruined it and need new needle gasket diaphragm ECT. Is that correct? Working on this exact carb from a beautiful 306a poulan chainsaw. It didn't run when I got it I've taken it apart once before I cleaned it up but all back together and it'll start but it's flooding pretty heavy and won't stay running
The atomizer screen on the high jet side sometimes can get lacquered up
True, but you usually find other evidence further out in the carb.
Looking for a rebuild kit for a HS9A. Can you help. Thanks
Leon , what type of gage are you using to put air pressure on the carb , I need to get one , thanks for videos
blood pressure sphygmamometer , pressure gauge 15 p.s.i ebay 15 bucks ,fittings ace hardware
How did you make the gauge?
Hello i have one of these that has another line coming off the bottom plate is that just a vent or is that for a pulse line ? I cant find anything about this
It could be either depending on what saw it came off of. I know Stihl used a separate pulse line on many of their saws that used a Tillotson HS.
You have to watch out with carb cleaner when your sprained it into your hijet there's a little disk in the high-speed check valve and the cab cleaner can warp it! (Sdc carb)
I usually spray out the passages with WD-40 an old-timer Saab builder show me that little trick
What about using brake Clean
@@ambassadorforchrist9504 I imagine some acetone free brake clean that doesn't harm plastics would be okay to use.
Some diaphragm and gasket replacement kits come with 2 fuel-pump diaphragms, identical in shape but they're made of different materials (one black and the other brown). Do you have to put the two identical diaphragms in place always? Which one goes in contact with the carburetor body? What is the recommended torque for the bolts of the carburetor?
i also have the samme question...
Guys I think one is for ethenol fuel and one for non. So for most people go with lighter color is ethenol.
Hey Leon. I'm a disabled veteran from southern WV. I am a Auto Mechanic by trade, so I do all my own repair work now. Would you care to share the list of parts needed to build your pop off valve pressure tester? It looks to me like you used a manual blood pressure tester, but I can't tell what all the brass fittings are that you used.
I didn't build it, that was an original Homelite tool. The Mityvac 8500 or similar will do the same thing.
Thank you sir.
We’re is the fuel inlet on a hs 81a
Grande nabo coloca um valvula nova
What the kit parts number for that
On the diaphragm side of mine the top tit is broken off, is this a problem?
Are you talking about one of the index pins? If so, that's not really a problem as long as everything lines up when you tighten it down.
Sorry but if I had to do all that it would get kitted for more than one reason I saw in that video ! :-)
Some of them have governers do they not
Yes...the next time I work on an XL-130 or similar, I'll do another video showing the governor.