How to Adjust an Acoustic Guitar Truss Rod (Excerpt)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ย. 2018
- When a quality guitar leaves the factory, the truss rod is adjusted according to the maker’s taste in setup specs. But a change in string gauges, climate (especially a change in humidity), or simply the player’s taste may require an adjustment, even on a new guitar. If you have a guitar that played great when you got it, but has developed a higher, stiffer action over time, it may be time to learn how to adjust your truss rod so you can keep the action just the way you like it.
Two primary signs tell you that your truss rod needs adjusting:
1. There’s a noticeable change in the action; the height of the strings over the frets has become either too high or too low. The most common scenario is that the strings get higher as the neck upbows from the string pull.
2. Some strings buzz on the frets between the nut and the fifth fret. This indicates that the neck is either too straight or it is backbowed from the truss rod’s slow, constant pressure over time.
Excerpted from Acoustic Guitar Care and Maintenance
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This is, by far, THE best explanation and demonstration of truss rod adjustment including all the varieties of trust rods that require careful and subtle techniques. In addition, this great Luthier makes very important comments and observations about the difference between “action“ of a guitar versus “tension levels” within the neck of a guitar. “Action” and “neck tension”, as he points out, are not the same. Action requires adjustments at the nut or the saddle versus the truss rod. Excellent video!
I took my guitar to New Mexico, where it is dry and cold in the winter. My brand new Martin really suffered. A week later, my action was pretty high at the 7th fret. I constantly hear that the nut should be checked out first when there is an action issue. But in this case, the nut was 100% new and the action was normal at the first few frets.
I've also always heard that a luthier/repairman should adjust a guitar. But I had a lot of confidence in myself, even though I had a $1500 Martin to potentially mess up. So I took my Allen's wrench and I added more back-bow by tightening the truss rod. I was paranoid. Only micro turns at a time. I would turn, tune, then play. Then I left it alone for a few hours. Then I repeated it 2 more times.
Finally, I set the perfect amount of bow.
I just learned that less is more when adjusting a truss rod. Same thing for those that ever adjusted a cork of a flute.
you can use those humidify things for the case so the guitar stays good when you travel?
Bro, some people are so impatient
Looking feverishly for satisfaction, in such a blind rage overlooking the wilting limbs that bear the fruit we incessantly devour..... To Want it all and squander the leftovers...
Thank you for the free knowledge BIIG DAAWG , i wish you well in your journey
Rick is a master luthier - one of the absolute best in the business bar none.
Haven't watched this yet but I trust most old white guys who wear aprons when it comes to fixing acoustic guitars.
Lmao very true
This guy wants your $$
This comment makes me feel every human emotion possible. This is god damn art. 🤌
You know! He means humble business. Teach one, teach all approach
But what does being white have to do with being a guitar tech?
He did a better than great job explaining things. 🔥🔥
Awesome vidéo! Very detailed explanation & best demonstration for green-hand people NOT even to touch the truss rod for Adjusting Actions which normally could be done with the saddle sanding.
Great explanation
Great video. Thank you so much. And boy, you sound like Bill Hicks so much!!
i would think relief would mean less curvature but now I dont know. thank you I will subscribe!!
Would it help the truss rod and nut to de-tune the strings before adjusting it?
Excerpted from "Acoustic Guitar Care & Maintenance" store.acousticguitar.com/collections/acoustic-guitar-care-and-maintenance/products/acoustic-guitar-care-maintenance
Hi very nice tutorial sir! Just have a question... i went to a luthier to lower the action, they tighten the rod to maximum and lowered the saddle, now i have a 1. 90 mm string height from the 12th fret. Is it safe/recommended to loosen the rod again to make it a lil tiny bit higher ? Coz i have some fret buzzing
I want to lower the action on my guitar, specifically higher up the neck around the 7th-14th fret. My neck seems straight. Should the first thing I do be file down my saddle?
Cheap Alvarez. It’s creaking and pinging when I try to tune. New tuners or does it sound like I have bigger problems? Great tutorial!!! Ty
Hey GREAT VIDEO. I have a Martin GPCPA4. I tried adjusting the truss rod and sure enough i damaged it. I turn it anticlockwise and there is no adjustment on the neck. I turned it clockwise until it cant go any further ( i heard a small crack( and no adjustment. I think i have to replace the Truss Rod. I have contacted Martin and no answer. Can you recommend a Truss Rod i can purchase? there is a local Luthier that can replace it for me as i dont have the tool necessary. I just need advice on what truss rod to buy. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!
so for string action truss rod fitst then nut then saddle ? its is correct ?
I have an older 1981 Guild d16. and also a 2000 Washburn AE, how do I know if the y have a single or double action truss rod?
If i adjust my truss rod 1/8th turn anti clockwise to loosen (for more bow - single action), I should then wait overnight to see results? He told us that (i think), but then he adjusted the truss rod, then looked down the neck and said it looks good to go? Was he just jumping to tomorrow?
I wish I could get help with that.... I have a Yamaha red fg-180 ... broke my hand up didn’t think I would be able to play anymore... it’s my dads old guitar gonna try to bring it back to life!
That was interesting
.. but how much space is it supposed to be between the strings and the frets when you push down on both ends? I've been tightening and loosening it back and fourth for a while and don't seem to get it right.
with pushing you want a almost a bit of space or almost none. the saddle determines most of the action anyway.
without pushing you want around 2mm for the high E string at the 12 fret for easy playing, may affect very hard strumming maybe.
Thanks for you video. I appreciate you explaining, and showing us what to do. I do have a question. I own a Martin D1. I noticed just recently the action was pretty high up near the sound hole. I assumed maybe a truss rod adjustment would fix this. So I ordered a guitar neck straightness tool, and a truss rod tool. Some new Martin custom light strings. Before I do anything I checked the neck with the current strings and it seems to me to be perfectly straight with the tool. What would be causing the high action. I mean its not terrible but noticeably higher than normal. The temp changes in my house have been pretty crazy do to winter. No central air, so when it gets chilly I jack the heat up, and turn it off until chilly again. Probably not the best for the wood. But still, neck is straight, high action exists. Toward the tuners its great and normal. What should I do?
You probably just need to adjust the height of the “bridge” on the guitar. Pretty sure the D1 has a removable bridge made out of bone. Take all strings off, remove the bone bridge. Take sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the bottom of the bridge to your desired action then enjoy. Don’t adjust the truss rod for “lowering” action. You will just end up with fret buzz or a broken neck. Most high end guitars (Gibson, fender, martin, PRS) already have the truss rod adjusted to the optimal position with the recommended string size for that guitar. But if you play with different size strings or different tunings or play extreme humidity or extreme dry areas then it’s possible it may need adjusted but very unlikely. These manufacturers or builders make the same guitars in different ways. Some guitars will have the action already adjusted to the minimum height without feet buzz. Some of the guitars they make will not have the action adjusted at all on purpose for people who play really hard and loud, they don’t want the action to be very low or they might encounter fret buzz. Hope this helped. Just look up a TH-cam video on “sanding down acoustic guitar bone bridge” or something similar.
@@Znew07 The Brown or Black piece of wood that holds the WHITE piece is called the BRIDGE, the white piece is called the SADDLE, the strings lie across the SADDLE, you sand and lower the SADDLE, the Bridge is glued to the Face (sound board) and doesn't come off, unless you use tools to remove it.
@@jrm11111955 yes, you are correct. Sorry. I think I was half asleep when I was writing that.
@@Znew07 I understand, this last year has everyone walking around asleep, myself included.
@@Znew07
I bought a guitar to fix myself but I find the neck is higher on the 1st E and lower at the 6th E major buzz on the 1st E almost no buzz on the 6th E. How do I fix that?
fire is the solution burn it
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Now, both of my sons sounds better 🎸🎸
Great Video, you can work on my guitars anytime -Small adjustments go along way with truss rods.
I have a classical, with truss rod in the soundhole. It has a slight forward bow that I want straightened. At 6:25 he says he's trying to "allow for vibration", but his 1/8 right turn was supposedly to make "less relief"? Isn't that going to lower the action? Isn't that going to make less room for vibration?? Omg, I just need a simple, plain spoken answer!! Short and sweet! Which way do I turn the truss-rid in my sound hole, to straighten out a forward bow? Geez
I am dealing with the same issue right now with my fender lol.
@@krazykozey2259 It's a right turn.
@@dannysmuzic1807 Thank you just adjusted it!
No feeler guage?
what do u mean by the "relief of the neck" ?
Terry Adams When the truss rod is tight it prevents the neck from bowing under string tension. As you loosen the truss rod (counter-clockwise) it allows the neck to curve slightly. That curve is “relief” which gives the strings more room to vibrate without buzzing on the next fret.
thank you
Thanks. I'm a bit afraid to break the rod of a 41 year old vintage guitar. So gonna be really careful.
be very patient with this, it doesnt really adjust action, and the effect is delayed by hours
do i need to detune my guitar while adjusting the truss rod?
no
what in the hell is relief? Jeez!!!
That means the neck bends upwards thereby causing relief in the neck tension
@@rw2452 Awesome! I get it now! really appreciate it. thanks!
So lefty loosely??
So, I guess clockwise is flattening a concaved fret board? You aren't very clear on which way to turn the Allen wrench.
Just sayin'!
I have a '94 Takamine Classic. Hex nut inside the sound hole. You have mystified things which I am sure was your intent to get more clients. Ha ha
Never sight a neck like that. Always sight from playing position
What if you're Jeff Healey?
360p, gj
Ofcourse its a martin .
Get to the point, man. Edit to 2 minutes
The mellow pace that this video goes at is the same mellow pace that makes him a great luthier.
This man knows what he is talking about … especially re: SEQUENCE of guitar adjustments … correctly method is what he has described…