This man never fails to test everything the absolute wrong way lmao. *Drywall rips* "well those anchors couldnt keep the swiss cheese wall together, they fail the test" 😂
1:01 “If there’s anybody in this job site that knows what’s going on, it’s me! (Less than 5 seconds later) So…I don’t know exactly what you would call this…but it’s big…” 😂
Drywall anchor ratings are based on something flat against the wall, like a flat mount TV or a painting. Shelves stick out and all that distance dramatically increases the sideways pressure. That shelf with anchors should only be holding decorative items. 44lbs would be plenty.
21:20 okay that might be the single most impressive thing Tyler has ever done in his life ... if I wasnt sure he probably tilted the table to make it level LOL
He had the upper line of the drywall as a reference, which he put the sticker in parallel with. The longer the sticker, the easier it is to see the tiniest off-angle.😉
Lastly, anchors hold more horizontal pressure than vertical force. That being said, you're testing drywall strength with different hole sizes, basically. Loads places on drywall anchors usually pull outward on the anchor rather than vertically.
Tyler, a few comments... 1. Your original tests were testing only SHEAR. Shear refers to a sliding failure that occurs along a flat plane of a sample (verticale direction in this case). Once you added that shelf you gain additional forces. Not only leverage (because your attachment point was now further from the wall, so the shelf acts as a lever) but you were also testing more Tensile Strength and more specifically TORQUE testing. These forces were acting on pulling in a lateral and rotational direction (in which most components are their weakest). These different forces are why you experienced such drastictly different results in load strength. The key is to recognize the forces at play, and use the proper fastener for the application. A standard drywall anchor can have plenty of shear strength, and is a good application for hanging flat things on a wall such as pictures, clocks, etc. Toggle anchors are the only ones designed to resist Tensile forces or rotational and/or twisting forces. In fact, they are the only anchors that are approved by code for hanging items from a ceiling (pure tensile forces) or hanging things such as shelves on a wall that will have heavy items on them. While attaching to a stud inside the wall is always best for any situation, drywall anchors have there place. Great video!
That literally is the only way any kind of anchor is useful, though. A shear load is what they're made for, they're not made to stop something pulling out horizontally but to stop something falling down vertically
@@daylen577 anchors are meant to be an attachment point, not a load point that is pulled on 90 degrees to the load or leveraged with a crane and hoist. anyone thinking using a crane and hoist to test anchors is at best entertaining people, not actually performing actual test of products, materials, or process.
@@jimmiefitzgerald4961 I would not worry about testing them because they are a waste of time, as tyler mentioned by never having used them because they merely rip drywall apart and as such are useless.
@@PictishPrince For most people's usage of drywall anchors this is the exact right kind of test. Most people use these for hanging heavy picture frames or drapes which the testing here emulates pretty well. The only additional thing that may be useful would be to use one to hang a drape/curtain bracket and then add weight until it fails.
In Germany we like to use these expansion dowels on lamps that are attached to plasterboard ceilings or old straw ceilings - they are perfect for this at 12:00 😊
Lmao as a construction electrician I’ll tell you the one you thought was the worst design (toggle bolt with wing nut) is about the only one we use, those aren’t necessarily designed for ease of install and usually you use a washer under the head of the bolt, also an impact to screw it in not a screwdriver 😂. haven’t made it to the end of the video but I hope to see you test a zip it anchor as well
I've been using drywall anchors since the mid 1970s . I found the same designs back then, that you liked or found useful back then the best they have really improved in the last 20 years or so with better alloys and minor design changes
There are two other anchors that you should test. They are the ones that I prefer actually. The first is “toggler” and it’s a self tapping, screw in anchor. The second is “snap toggle” and that is more of the pop open butterfly type that you tested. These can hold like 300lbs in drywall.
I don't get it. The last anchor, for example, it wasn't the anchor that failed but the "wall". You can use anchors made of the toughest material but if your wall is made of cardboard, it's not going to hold.
I used those heavy duty metal butterfly anchors to protect. my children from book cases. and heavy things like giant mirrors. When you have kids you'll be anchoring in a lot more stuff.
Seeing the world through Tyler's eyes is an illuminating experience. I've used the toggles my whole life and never given it a second thought. It's fun seeing it from another perspective though.
You find the force by using W = F * y / x F is the force on y; y is the long end of the fulcrum; x is the short end of the fulcrum; W is the lift mass or total force applied at the point where the fulcrum and the object that force is being applied to, meet. 44(lbs)*4(in)/0.75(in)=234.667(lbs) of force which is consistent with where the drywall (not the anchors) was failing in all previous tests. But you're the high-vis-forklift-certified-foreman so, you obviously knew that already 😅
The dumbest one is called a toggle bolt and yes, they are horrible. However, as you found, they are super strong for many use cases. I would have liked to see you test anchors at more than just parallel stress. Straight down the wall is one use case, but most things have at least some perpendicular forces pulling away from the wall and that’s really where the different anchors shine. Those cheap traditional ones for example pull out immediately with ANY outward force. Toggle bolts take the most force to pull out. Lots of in between options between those two extremes though. Personally I love the plastic auger screw type anchors. They do make a larger hole if you have to patch one, but they self drill and hold really well for typical home projects. Never had those pull out, even with TV mounts, which is my most common use case when I can’t find a stud that works. (Your shelf test very much demonstrates the point I was making about outward forces that are not strictly up or down the wall. Even slight amounts of angled force changes the physics immensely because leverage is a huge force multiplier.)
I used the last anchor you tested the one with the long screw and that made a big hole in the drywall to hold a ceiling lamp and the design ain't stupid because the head of the screw comes off so u can keep the threaded rod in the part with the wings, get it in then add what I wanna mount to the wall or ceiling in my case with the corresponding holes, then add the head back on and after that's tight just screw it all the way in and you're done just like you did in the vid. You're welcome.
@@dresdensinn6669 yeah I'm sure plenty of people don't have moms who are alive anymore. However, it's meant to be a joke about yo mama being fat, like a reference to dumb middle school humor. If that seriously offends you, that's a you problem
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow I would expect something a little more "consoling" and understanding in their reply from someone with "Christmas" in their name but somehow I'm not surprised.
Brother, I thought I was good with forklifts (construction, lumberyards and shipyards), but you sure showed me something today I had never thought I could also do.
Tyler. I have watched every video you have made in the last 3 years. Woth the possable exeption of maybe 5. And i can confidently say this is easily in my top 5. For whatever reason i throughly enjoyed the way you acted. I laughed so hard.
11:48 These might be marketed as "drywall" anchors. But when I was working as a pipe welder, we used these to anchor small frames into concrete block walls. Never figured they were meant for drywall. They hold up well and you can fill the block wall with grout. It makes way more sense for a concrete wall I feel.
You have to consider shear force and friction. You took both of those away with the shelf and applied leverage by moving the hoist point away from the wall. Great vid as always!
You should’ve loaded the shelf with weight at the end not pulled up on it. Maybe the downward force would be different and the “anchors” wouldn’t fall but that shelf would slide off of its pegs
@tylertube The one that you testing at around the 13:49 mark is for ceilings. It works best by evenly distrubting the weight across the surface horizontally parallel to the surface not perpenduclar to it. At that point you are dispursing the weight on the screw to the drywall not the flange to the dry wall. The screw as a much smaller surface area that the flange, hence causing to it fail much quicker. I use these all the time to hang my pots and pans, and plants.
All he’s doing is trying to do is test products and rate them and see how they work and the quality of each product and I enjoy watching his videos great job Tyler keep up the great work
The repair for the patch nonsense is to use the toggle in the same hole. As someone that hangs A LOT of stuff in the real world every day, you figure out ways to make things work and to hold up.
Very informative, but I want to tell you the very last one you used is for a ceiling to hang a hook from that’s why it’s so weird with its arms sticking out like that so that it doesn’t punch through the ceiling.
I've done a lot of drywall, and never seen 1/4" 1/2" and 5/8" are standard. 1/2" for normal walls, 5/8" for firewall, such as in your garage or kitchen.
I live in a mobile home and used to build mobile homes and they use 3/8 drywall on everything, and I know a lot of people that have used wall anchors in our area, and they end up with holes in the wall from the anchors pulling threw the walls.@@eclectichoosier5474
You should try stacking weights on the shelf to see how much weight the shelf could hold when it’s distributed across the shelf. Cause people usually aren’t putting 44 pounds of stuff on the very front of the shelf at one point.
Oh, okay, to explain what's going on with the amount of leverage being *so* effective at reducing the amount of force necessary: it's changing the type of force being applied on the drywall. To further explain, drywall is effectively a type of artificial rock made primarily out of ground up gypsum that's been reconstituted so it rebinds into one big sheet, and one thing about rocks and stones is they are generally strongest at resisting compressive force (i.e. directly crushing them), but they are usually absolutely dogshit at handling tensile forces (basically anything that attempts to bend or twist them), instead sheering parts of it away with relatively little force compared to trying to break it via crushing (wood is the opposite: very good compared to stone at handling tensile forces, while a good deal worse than stone at handling compressive forces). This is why when you tested the shelf it broke with so much less weight: when you were pulling directly up the drywall was being squished, and since the leverage was putting all the force in the direction the drywall was thickest it needed to compress the drywall to get the leverage to pull out, so it was very strong, but with the shelf it didn't need to compress the drywall much at all before there was a part of the drywall that was being *pulled on* instead of being crushed, and then it was just holding out for the strength of bending drywall, which considering it doesn't normally get sold in those uhhh, two-foot square segments, I'm guessing you've had experience with bending it, at least when you've cut it and need it shaped Also, drywall is a very light, soft stone
12:00 That style of drywall anchor I've only seen used on ceilings. I've taken them out in the past and never had an issue loosing them. If you see a hook on your ceiling there's a good chance it's probably held in by one of these. Chandelier hooks might be different though not sure there.
23:03 One of the reasons why the drywall anchors failed is because the integrity of the drywall was compromised by putting two anchors too close to eachother because the material expands and is displaced by the anchor, dry wall anchors are mostly good for hanging pictures or small things and i myself have had my failures with drywall anchors and i personally think that stud mounting is way better because its a stud its logically stronger than paper.
I’ve been an appliance service tech and installer and they have put those butterfly anchors, the last one with over the range microwaves for years. You can use them for the mounting plate for the microwave, and they are strong.
Erase a Hole for drywall repair. Its a tube you use it and just smear it on the wall, it fills the hole. When it dries all you have to do is paint it , great for small holes or medium scratches. What I used it on. Leftover stuff just stays in the tube, its been 2 years I still have over half of it. Its still fresh ready to use. Like spackle in a deodorant tube LOL
I use them, but to hang anything expensive, like a TV, or even something like a radiator, I'd still put a patress in the stud wall then patch it all back up nice and tidy, because it's all fine and dandy when they are fresh, but when things start getting knocked, the fixing is only as good as the plasterboard, and these can wobble out as the drywall slowly crumbles away.
Yeah, toggle anchors are pretty nice. Helps when you use a washer so that the head of the bolt doesn’t go through the drywall since you have to drill such a big hole. Another one you should try or zip it’s.
Yeah, your instincts about finding a stud apply to the shelf for sure. The leverage of things on a shelf, as well as its own mass, will stress any wall anchor. Or rather the drywall into which it is fitted. Torque = force X distance. The 4" is a lot of distance relative to the thickness of the drywall.
There is another kind of toggle bolt in which it is a single solid toggle with plastic legs that flex and a small collar. You drill a much smaller hole, slide the toggle in long ways, then slide the collar along the legs to tighten it against the wall. Then you snap off the rest of the legs that are sticking out of the wall. The collar holds the toggle in place. It's way simpler than I'm making it sound, haha. They are far superior to traditional toggle bolts. I used to hang Plasma TV's back in the days when they where still outrageously heavy. I wouldn't hang them off anything else. For lighter stuff, auger anchors all day long. Not to mention, in a metal studded wall, a toggle is the only way to go.
tyler that last one is a "heavy duty" dry wall anchor. it is meant for earthquake proofing your house (like you can better secure a large dresser/cabinet to your wall). it is meant to go behind large furniture that is already resting on the floor
Try testing EZ-ANCHORS with feed through hole. They are rated for 90 lbs. They screw in using a Phillips screwdriver. The length of the screw will go all the way through, so a longer screw does not cause any problems. They can be removed by unscrewing them & be used again. I'm a handyman & used them for 30 years.
I would add that those anchors are built to gild stuff “up” meaning the force should be applied downward somehow. Not pulling the screw up. Not sure if that makes a difference but just a thought.
I think the failure at the end has more to do with the shelf design rather than the anchors. Though it is a common mistake with those floating shelves and whenever I have seen videos of them failing it always destroys a large section of the dry wall
@TylerTube hey there. I wanted to suggest another type of drywall anchor. I use them to hang heavy TVs and other things flat against the wall and none have ever failed me in the 8 years I’ve used them for professional installations. They are called FlipToggles. A ratcheting toggle bolt system which is far superior to any other type of anchor. Also a tip, drywall toggles work best in a square formation and only a square.
As an hvac service tech, I'd like to see you find a stud to mount your thermostat on. Sure, you could mount a 2×4 to the wall and mount your thermostat to it, but let's see how your wife likes it!
I’ve had great luck with good anchors. The only ones that suck are the tap and screw in style . But most basic anchors you put screws into are solid. Never had anything fall
We used the wingnuts with pane washers to hang 1 inch sprinkler pipe for fire protection . They are very strong . We drilled the hole , used a cut piece of all thread rod to screw into the wingnut , Then a pane washer and a regular nut went on that . Run the nut tight and then the other end of the all thread rod we screwed the pipe hanger onto .
Screw wasn't reaching threads because you are to install the anchor in the wall with no load first, and thus no extra thickness. When fully claimped, remove screw and add load. Only mattered for some of the anchors. The toggle bolt needed a washer.
The last anchor you used (butterfly anchor) is better applied in pull loads, not shear loads. Ie, in your ceiling, to hang your wife's plant she brought home that will be dead in two weeks. There is also a different type, with 4 metal expanding tongs on the back, which if you ever want to remove it from the wall, hope you recognize its one of those type, and push it into the wall instead of pulling it out because if you pull it, they leave a rather large hole to patch. Lol
This man never fails to test everything the absolute wrong way lmao. *Drywall rips* "well those anchors couldnt keep the swiss cheese wall together, they fail the test" 😂
1:01
“If there’s anybody in this job site that knows what’s going on, it’s me! (Less than 5 seconds later) So…I don’t know exactly what you would call this…but it’s big…” 😂
21:32 "forklift certified" and the shelf was upside down. 😂 😂
Drywall anchor ratings are based on something flat against the wall, like a flat mount TV or a painting. Shelves stick out and all that distance dramatically increases the sideways pressure. That shelf with anchors should only be holding decorative items. 44lbs would be plenty.
I like how he has no idea how anything works in every video 😂
Yep then proceeds to talk shit about the product. Like no product ever works lol
Facts lol
That’s why I would never trust his videos as a true product review he has no idea how even the simplest things work such as a can opener
That's kind of what makes them so fun. It's like watching Jeremy Clarkson try to do any manual labor.
@@jamesstephenson8789he’s trolling. And it worked😂😂
Dang Tyler’s evolved from not reading instructions to dropping the hardest diss track of 2024.
The anchors weakness is the drywall itself
Yeah drywalls not exactly known for its strength lol
Yep, dont use ultra light drywall lol
That's what I was thinking! But then again my reproductive organs are on the inside, so what do I know lol.
@@jimboneutron8399ultralight drywall has fibers that make it strong and lighter than gypsum 😊
@@beckyowens2586that’s a gold comment hahahahah
I swear I can't get enough of this channel.
Ikr?
21:20 okay that might be the single most impressive thing Tyler has ever done in his life ... if I wasnt sure he probably tilted the table to make it level LOL
He had the upper line of the drywall as a reference, which he put the sticker in parallel with. The longer the sticker, the easier it is to see the tiniest off-angle.😉
There's tape under the base of the level
@@ModernSurvivalSense Ya you can see the gap lol
I alway use the winged ones if I can
Lastly, anchors hold more horizontal pressure than vertical force. That being said, you're testing drywall strength with different hole sizes, basically. Loads places on drywall anchors usually pull outward on the anchor rather than vertically.
The clean execute of the your mom joke was beautiful 😂
Tyler, a few comments...
1. Your original tests were testing only SHEAR. Shear refers to a sliding failure that occurs along a flat plane of a sample (verticale direction in this case). Once you added that shelf you gain additional forces. Not only leverage (because your attachment point was now further from the wall, so the shelf acts as a lever) but you were also testing more Tensile Strength and more specifically TORQUE testing. These forces were acting on pulling in a lateral and rotational direction (in which most components are their weakest).
These different forces are why you experienced such drastictly different results in load strength.
The key is to recognize the forces at play, and use the proper fastener for the application. A standard drywall anchor can have plenty of shear strength, and is a good application for hanging flat things on a wall such as pictures, clocks, etc. Toggle anchors are the only ones designed to resist Tensile forces or rotational and/or twisting forces. In fact, they are the only anchors that are approved by code for hanging items from a ceiling (pure tensile forces) or hanging things such as shelves on a wall that will have heavy items on them.
While attaching to a stud inside the wall is always best for any situation, drywall anchors have there place.
Great video!
pulling on anything to test anchors in that fashion is not a good way to do a real test, but it is entertaining.
That literally is the only way any kind of anchor is useful, though. A shear load is what they're made for, they're not made to stop something pulling out horizontally but to stop something falling down vertically
@@daylen577 anchors are meant to be an attachment point, not a load point that is pulled on 90 degrees to the load or leveraged with a crane and hoist. anyone thinking using a crane and hoist to test anchors is at best entertaining people, not actually performing actual test of products, materials, or process.
@@PictishPrincehow would you test them and get similar results when multiple tests
@@jimmiefitzgerald4961 I would not worry about testing them because they are a waste of time, as tyler mentioned by never having used them because they merely rip drywall apart and as such are useless.
@@PictishPrince For most people's usage of drywall anchors this is the exact right kind of test. Most people use these for hanging heavy picture frames or drapes which the testing here emulates pretty well. The only additional thing that may be useful would be to use one to hang a drape/curtain bracket and then add weight until it fails.
In Germany we like to use these expansion dowels on lamps that are attached to plasterboard ceilings or old straw ceilings - they are perfect for this at 12:00 😊
But we don't have so much drywall at all xD i have ZERO drywalls in our house here in northern Germany, all made out of bricks.
@@reneberthold334 Bei mir in Berlin im Altbau auch keine Rigips Platten
Lmao as a construction electrician I’ll tell you the one you thought was the worst design (toggle bolt with wing nut) is about the only one we use, those aren’t necessarily designed for ease of install and usually you use a washer under the head of the bolt, also an impact to screw it in not a screwdriver 😂. haven’t made it to the end of the video but I hope to see you test a zip it anchor as well
Bro right? Toggle bolts are by far the best and I love how they work. I just did 10 base board heaters on dry using them. Got 15 left!
I've been using drywall anchors since the mid 1970s . I found the same designs back then, that you liked or found useful back then the best they have really improved in the last 20 years or so with better alloys and minor design changes
The "dumb" one has been my favorite for years. 😊
Yeah, I use them frequently....and I have nothing really bad to say about them.
Fork Lift Certified.. .needs to be a Meme from now on , on Tylers videos when he does something well or something performs well.
_And that ladies and gentlemen is why ANY shelf should be drilled into the studs!_
There are two other anchors that you should test. They are the ones that I prefer actually. The first is “toggler” and it’s a self tapping, screw in anchor. The second is “snap toggle” and that is more of the pop open butterfly type that you tested. These can hold like 300lbs in drywall.
I don't get it. The last anchor, for example, it wasn't the anchor that failed but the "wall". You can use anchors made of the toughest material but if your wall is made of cardboard, it's not going to hold.
Only as strong as the weakest link, which in our case was the drywall. Solution is to use real materials instead of drywall.
@@IntegerOfDoom Literally any house outside of the US
@@IntegerOfDoom you literally missed the point lmao log off
Maybe Tyler is learning that you can do a lot with 4 inches of leverage 😂
may be he already knew????
Our mom's have met Tyler and they already knew 😏
I used those heavy duty metal butterfly anchors to protect. my children from book cases. and heavy things like giant mirrors. When you have kids you'll be anchoring in a lot more stuff.
Seeing the world through Tyler's eyes is an illuminating experience. I've used the toggles my whole life and never given it a second thought. It's fun seeing it from another perspective though.
love the vids tyler
You find the force by using W = F * y / x
F is the force on y; y is the long end of the fulcrum; x is the short end of the fulcrum; W is the lift mass or total force applied at the point where the fulcrum and the object that force is being applied to, meet.
44(lbs)*4(in)/0.75(in)=234.667(lbs) of force which is consistent with where the drywall (not the anchors) was failing in all previous tests.
But you're the high-vis-forklift-certified-foreman so, you obviously knew that already 😅
The dumbest one is called a toggle bolt and yes, they are horrible. However, as you found, they are super strong for many use cases. I would have liked to see you test anchors at more than just parallel stress. Straight down the wall is one use case, but most things have at least some perpendicular forces pulling away from the wall and that’s really where the different anchors shine. Those cheap traditional ones for example pull out immediately with ANY outward force. Toggle bolts take the most force to pull out. Lots of in between options between those two extremes though. Personally I love the plastic auger screw type anchors. They do make a larger hole if you have to patch one, but they self drill and hold really well for typical home projects. Never had those pull out, even with TV mounts, which is my most common use case when I can’t find a stud that works. (Your shelf test very much demonstrates the point I was making about outward forces that are not strictly up or down the wall. Even slight amounts of angled force changes the physics immensely because leverage is a huge force multiplier.)
I used the last anchor you tested the one with the long screw and that made a big hole in the drywall to hold a ceiling lamp and the design ain't stupid because the head of the screw comes off so u can keep the threaded rod in the part with the wings, get it in then add what I wanna mount to the wall or ceiling in my case with the corresponding holes, then add the head back on and after that's tight just screw it all the way in and you're done just like you did in the vid. You're welcome.
@@IntegerOfDoomhe’s saying the head of the bolt comes off of the toggle bolt Tyler used
Not Tyler dissing on the best drywall anchor BY FAR and then having to walk back his comments. 😂😂😂 Haaaa. Gotta love it.
I can't imagine how ridiculous your house looks with random 2x4's bolted to the wall.
Not as rediculous as the house with holes where the drywall anchors ripped out
@@BlazingKhioneus I've never had a drywall anchor rip from my wall in my 36 years on this earth. Use a stud.
Why would you use a drywall anchor if you're gonna use a stud? @skyzophrenyk
3:55-Tyler "that would almost hold your mom"
4:42- what tyler would do to your mom
No standards. Even a mannequin is good enough for him.
Even a mannequin torso
Do you/Tyler not realize that a good number of viewers that are over 50yrs old that their mother has passed away? Just saying.
@@dresdensinn6669 yeah I'm sure plenty of people don't have moms who are alive anymore. However, it's meant to be a joke about yo mama being fat, like a reference to dumb middle school humor. If that seriously offends you, that's a you problem
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow I would expect something a little more "consoling" and understanding in their reply from someone with "Christmas" in their name but somehow I'm not surprised.
Brother, I thought I was good with forklifts (construction, lumberyards and shipyards), but you sure showed me something today I had never thought I could also do.
We wanted dry wall anchors tested against bulletproof vests 😭😭
Tyler. I have watched every video you have made in the last 3 years. Woth the possable exeption of maybe 5. And i can confidently say this is easily in my top 5. For whatever reason i throughly enjoyed the way you acted. I laughed so hard.
Great experiment! Great video!
11:48 These might be marketed as "drywall" anchors. But when I was working as a pipe welder, we used these to anchor small frames into concrete block walls. Never figured they were meant for drywall. They hold up well and you can fill the block wall with grout. It makes way more sense for a concrete wall I feel.
Cleanest high vis I've ever seen, he must be the safety man especially with that forklift certification
You have to consider shear force and friction. You took both of those away with the shelf and applied leverage by moving the hoist point away from the wall. Great vid as always!
You should’ve loaded the shelf with weight at the end not pulled up on it. Maybe the downward force would be different and the “anchors” wouldn’t fall but that shelf would slide off of its pegs
Drywall anchors are amazing....ive never doubted them
@tylertube The one that you testing at around the 13:49 mark is for ceilings. It works best by evenly distrubting the weight across the surface horizontally parallel to the surface not perpenduclar to it. At that point you are dispursing the weight on the screw to the drywall not the flange to the dry wall. The screw as a much smaller surface area that the flange, hence causing to it fail much quicker. I use these all the time to hang my pots and pans, and plants.
Try the Hilti HTB1/4 in. Toggle Bolt Drywall Anchor with Zinc Plated Phillips Head Screw from home depot. We use these to hang TVs and grab bars.
All he’s doing is trying to do is test products and rate them and see how they work and the quality of each product and I enjoy watching his videos great job Tyler keep up the great work
I'm glad you did the shelf test because there's almost always some torque and outwards pull on the anchors.
The repair for the patch nonsense is to use the toggle in the same hole. As someone that hangs A LOT of stuff in the real world every day, you figure out ways to make things work and to hold up.
0:42 your already doing something wrong 😂😂
Absolutely love the 'Forklift certified' hat with the 'raw toast' shirt. Immaculate Tyler drip as always!
Very informative, but I want to tell you the very last one you used is for a ceiling to hang a hook from that’s why it’s so weird with its arms sticking out like that so that it doesn’t punch through the ceiling.
when using the anchors, the biggest factor is the thickness of the drywall, half inch drywall is stronger than quarter inch.
I've done a lot of drywall, and never seen 1/4"
1/2" and 5/8" are standard. 1/2" for normal walls, 5/8" for firewall, such as in your garage or kitchen.
I live in a mobile home and used to build mobile homes and they use 3/8 drywall on everything, and I know a lot of people that have used wall anchors in our area, and they end up with holes in the wall from the anchors pulling threw the walls.@@eclectichoosier5474
No way!!! The stuff that is twice as thick is stronger?! Learned something new.
You should try stacking weights on the shelf to see how much weight the shelf could hold when it’s distributed across the shelf. Cause people usually aren’t putting 44 pounds of stuff on the very front of the shelf at one point.
Oh, okay, to explain what's going on with the amount of leverage being *so* effective at reducing the amount of force necessary: it's changing the type of force being applied on the drywall.
To further explain, drywall is effectively a type of artificial rock made primarily out of ground up gypsum that's been reconstituted so it rebinds into one big sheet, and one thing about rocks and stones is they are generally strongest at resisting compressive force (i.e. directly crushing them), but they are usually absolutely dogshit at handling tensile forces (basically anything that attempts to bend or twist them), instead sheering parts of it away with relatively little force compared to trying to break it via crushing (wood is the opposite: very good compared to stone at handling tensile forces, while a good deal worse than stone at handling compressive forces).
This is why when you tested the shelf it broke with so much less weight: when you were pulling directly up the drywall was being squished, and since the leverage was putting all the force in the direction the drywall was thickest it needed to compress the drywall to get the leverage to pull out, so it was very strong, but with the shelf it didn't need to compress the drywall much at all before there was a part of the drywall that was being *pulled on* instead of being crushed, and then it was just holding out for the strength of bending drywall, which considering it doesn't normally get sold in those uhhh, two-foot square segments, I'm guessing you've had experience with bending it, at least when you've cut it and need it shaped
Also, drywall is a very light, soft stone
12:00 That style of drywall anchor I've only seen used on ceilings. I've taken them out in the past and never had an issue loosing them. If you see a hook on your ceiling there's a good chance it's probably held in by one of these. Chandelier hooks might be different though not sure there.
23:03 One of the reasons why the drywall anchors failed is because the integrity of the drywall was compromised by putting two anchors too close to eachother because the material expands and is displaced by the anchor, dry wall anchors are mostly good for hanging pictures or small things and i myself have had my failures with drywall anchors and i personally think that stud mounting is way better because its a stud its logically stronger than paper.
Tyler I always look forward to your experiments 🧪🧪🧪 always entertaining!!!
Those butterfly anchors are the best, when used for the correct application
I’ve been an appliance service tech and installer and they have put those butterfly anchors, the last one with over the range microwaves for years. You can use them for the mounting plate for the microwave, and they are strong.
Erase a Hole for drywall repair. Its a tube you use it and just smear it on the wall, it fills the hole. When it dries all you have to do is paint it , great for small holes or medium scratches. What I used it on. Leftover stuff just stays in the tube, its been 2 years I still have over half of it. Its still fresh ready to use. Like spackle in a deodorant tube LOL
The original title: I Tested Drywall Anchors From Amazon!
The one at 14:00 is the one I had to use when doing construction we had to put in 100’s of those a day 🤣
I love the mom joke 😂
You can always count on Tyler for getting the job done right. I swear I always come back for more. 😂
I use them, but to hang anything expensive, like a TV, or even something like a radiator, I'd still put a patress in the stud wall then patch it all back up nice and tidy, because it's all fine and dandy when they are fresh, but when things start getting knocked, the fixing is only as good as the plasterboard, and these can wobble out as the drywall slowly crumbles away.
tyler is the most qualified person to do any tests he should get a job as a product tester
He is THE product tester for youtube ❤❤😂😂😂
except he always does everything wrong when testing
@@davidbarnes1439 most people are idiots. So I guess this is “real world” testing!
Yeah, toggle anchors are pretty nice. Helps when you use a washer so that the head of the bolt doesn’t go through the drywall since you have to drill such a big hole. Another one you should try or zip it’s.
On this episode, Tyler learns about leverage.
Yeah, your instincts about finding a stud apply to the shelf for sure. The leverage of things on a shelf, as well as its own mass, will stress any wall anchor. Or rather the drywall into which it is fitted. Torque = force X distance. The 4" is a lot of distance relative to the thickness of the drywall.
There is another kind of toggle bolt in which it is a single solid toggle with plastic legs that flex and a small collar. You drill a much smaller hole, slide the toggle in long ways, then slide the collar along the legs to tighten it against the wall. Then you snap off the rest of the legs that are sticking out of the wall. The collar holds the toggle in place. It's way simpler than I'm making it sound, haha. They are far superior to traditional toggle bolts. I used to hang Plasma TV's back in the days when they where still outrageously heavy. I wouldn't hang them off anything else. For lighter stuff, auger anchors all day long. Not to mention, in a metal studded wall, a toggle is the only way to go.
that greed plug at 8:00 is for stone and concrete, hence the bad grip on drywall. it needs resistance to bite the threads propperly.
tyler that last one is a "heavy duty" dry wall anchor. it is meant for earthquake proofing your house (like you can better secure a large dresser/cabinet to your wall). it is meant to go behind large furniture that is already resting on the floor
Try testing EZ-ANCHORS with feed through hole. They are rated for 90 lbs. They screw in using a Phillips screwdriver. The length of the screw will go all the way through, so a longer screw does not cause any problems. They can be removed by unscrewing them & be used again.
I'm a handyman & used them for 30 years.
I've used the winged ones. They work really well. Four of them pretty much guarantee a cabinet is never falling off the wall.
This is how many people absolutely love & adore Tyler.
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Today Tyler learned about leverage 😅😂
the one you used that you said was the dumbest is a togglebolt and they are actually very good at not only drywall but other applications aswell
I would add that those anchors are built to gild stuff “up” meaning the force should be applied downward somehow. Not pulling the screw up. Not sure if that makes a difference but just a thought.
For the shelf why didn’t you just add weight? Like bricks you weigh the total weight before you set them in the shelf?
To my eye having that flat piece of timber over the anchor supports the drywall during stress testing and distributes the load across the timber
I think the failure at the end has more to do with the shelf design rather than the anchors. Though it is a common mistake with those floating shelves and whenever I have seen videos of them failing it always destroys a large section of the dry wall
"take a look at me" i mean those bags under yours eyes scream wisdom 🤣🤣 no hate, love this channel
23:01 That's leverage, move the hook closer to the wall and it'll hold a lot more😊
@TylerTube hey there. I wanted to suggest another type of drywall anchor. I use them to hang heavy TVs and other things flat against the wall and none have ever failed me in the 8 years I’ve used them for professional installations. They are called FlipToggles. A ratcheting toggle bolt system which is far superior to any other type of anchor. Also a tip, drywall toggles work best in a square formation and only a square.
As an hvac service tech, I'd like to see you find a stud to mount your thermostat on. Sure, you could mount a 2×4 to the wall and mount your thermostat to it, but let's see how your wife likes it!
Thanks for putting the kg equivalent.
I dont have freedom units here, and when im playing along at home all my guesses are in kg.
I love how he used a brick plug on drywall, the green one is designed for actual walls and it clings to it with the bit that 'pops out'
14:53 Drywall fiberglass lol
Didn't know you were forklift certified. You have my respect. Gobbless.
Tyler is the kind of guy I'd love to have a drink with, but I know he would be so picky about what drinks we order
21:32 as he said dead center see his blood vessel in his eye stressing knowing we gonna commit something 🤣
I’ve had great luck with good anchors. The only ones that suck are the tap and screw in style . But most basic anchors you put screws into are solid. Never had anything fall
Those mom jokes are hilarious 😂
9:13, love how you never considert a longer Screw 😂
for that last one, the ONLY thing I can think is the collective damage to a shorter end of the drywall when you did those in a line.
The anchor didn't even fail, the drywall did lol
We used the wingnuts with pane washers to hang 1 inch sprinkler pipe for fire protection . They are very strong . We drilled the hole , used a cut piece of all thread rod to screw into the wingnut , Then a pane washer and a regular nut went on that . Run the nut tight and then the other end of the all thread rod we screwed the pipe hanger onto .
Bud....once ya made the hole bigger....um use THE RIGHT THING.....THE TOGGLE BOLT😂😂😂😂
Screw wasn't reaching threads because you are to install the anchor in the wall with no load first, and thus no extra thickness. When fully claimped, remove screw and add load. Only mattered for some of the anchors. The toggle bolt needed a washer.
I think Tyler's a lot smarter than people think I'm 99% sure his TH-cam persona is just a character.
3:55 literally spit my food out. That's what I get for not reading Tyler's titles anymore, just hit play
The last anchor you used (butterfly anchor) is better applied in pull loads, not shear loads. Ie, in your ceiling, to hang your wife's plant she brought home that will be dead in two weeks. There is also a different type, with 4 metal expanding tongs on the back, which if you ever want to remove it from the wall, hope you recognize its one of those type, and push it into the wall instead of pulling it out because if you pull it, they leave a rather large hole to patch. Lol
A your mom joke. We are truly blessed.