@@DEBOSSGARAGE Gets tricky to do on Mazdas, the clear coat is as cheesy as it comes, and somehow you have to try replicate it. Caught me out a couple times in my career as a painter, have a minty flat smooth guard and door, yet the rear quarter looks like an orange skin
It’s so frustrating living in the “rust belt & suspenders” region of the north. No matter how much effort a guy puts in to rust-proofing and preventing, it will STILL rot to nothing within a decade. I went through this exact same process on a 96 Ram I picked up that was 100% clean and rust-free. Painting and coating and oiling inside and over and under everything. Spent a couple months on & off getting it all done. And within 3 years it was showing rust in the typical areas. I’ve come to understand that if you drive a vehicle regularly, in the winter, in this area, there is nothing you can do to stop that rust. Slow it down maybe, but you can’t stop it (short of plastic panels). ** First they sand the roads, to effectively sandblast the rockers and wheel wells. Then they salt heavily to get some surface rust going. Then comes the mag chloride (liquid de-icing chemical) that can penetrate into areas that the salt can’t get into, and also soaks into any of that foam & fabric sound deadening material & of course the carpet & padding. Hooray for the super-salt north country.
You're not wrong.. Vehicles are practically disposable up here, and the worst investment you can make. I can't help but think this re-body process, as entertaining as it is, would be an incredible waste of time and money if not for the video content it creates.
Been applying fluid film twice a year to my 06 duramax, every single year since 2008. Has little to no rust on it. Seen it work first hand in the mining industry, totally different than Krown or other products as its more of a wax than an oil. I believe its actually lanolin which is derived from sheep. Only thing I’d use in northern Ontario.
I’ve been using a siphon spray gun to coat my vehicles with old diesel motor oil for years. I still drive my 93 first gen every day. I’m in Maine where we use more calcium on the roads then asphalt.
really fun atmosphere. lunch is supplied every Friday, and I even got in trouble for showing up late. if I hang out there too much longer, I think I'll be expected at the Christmas party
Good morning brother, perfect video for me to wake up to on a Sunday morning! 4 a.m. here in Arizona and about to head to my welding and Fab shop to make some room to work on my new truck!
yup when its major. like a open frame. also on unibody cars. its not rare to see a full size truck bend in half because the frame broke between the cab and bed. and even a 2010 car can be so rusted out the rear crossmember can fall off because there is nothing holding it to the car anymore. alot of honda ride do that. like the pilot, Cr-v, ridgeline, element.
Awesome build, and on a personal note- About damned time you started taking care of your hands. I learned that lesson the hard way, and as a result I have 9 working fingers, and carpal tunnel bad enough that the rest are numb most of the time, on top of arthritis and nerve damage. You only get one set, and while they will usually heal up after a bout of stupidity, there is a limit. I am glad you're setting a good example.
22:06 Oh yeah that ground clamp. I do the same thing. Its a terrible habit to get in but it's so much easier than cutting the wire. Just burn it off on the ground clamp.
Whenever you run into trouble with a gap that's too big, it's perfectly acceptable to take a piece with the same contour and make a sleeve that your new part will lay on top of. That way you get a more soled repair without overheating the metal and causing it to shrink AND you aren't overheating the metal and work hardening as well as changing the properties of it with too much heat and creating a spot that will rot in the end. When you are done with paint and everything, use a cavity wax and tube that will corrosion protect from the inside forever.
I did all my body work then painted it epoxy primer and T Rex bedliner then did a paint job over the bedliner then did a matte clear over it years ago and still looks like it was done yesterday.
I just find this funny. I have a '00 Silverado, almost 190k miles. Spent it's whole life in NC. The clear coat is gone, the previous owner dented the bed side down to bare metal and it won't rust. Underneath you would swear it isn't more than 5 years old! Might be some dirt, but NO rust! Not even on the original exhaust. Based on the condition of the paint I'd say it's never been indoors and it hasn't even been washed in many years.
rich, that much change probably gets in there because you're tall. I had the same thing in my cars/trucks and it turned out every time i got in and out my knees were higher than my waist and i would leak coins.
Are you going to improve on the sound deadening and heat insulation as you're putting the truck back together? Probably the best time to do it and a truck old as that isn't the quietest thing.
Nice vid:] I have a 2000 Silverado love the thing! I spray oil on the underbody three times a year mostly in the wash zones. I was lucky and the conservation maintained my truck for 15 years before I got it. Another thing I do to keep the rust away is when she gets wet I take her for a long drive to dry off.
Nice work Rich! I did basically the same rebuild on my old 1979 square body Chev in 2004. Instead of using paint on the inside surfaces, I used Rustoleum cold galvanizing compound. Great stuff, and available almost everywhere. After paint I oiled the truck every year and when I sold it last fall it still had very little rust. Drove it every day year-round right here in good old Ontario too! Good luck on the build. Love your channel.
Rich, if you don’t mind the look I would really recommend some mud flaps. I have had them on my truck since new and it has saved my 03 from having the rockers eaten apart. It also saves your cab corners and floor. I also really recommend wool wax, it is non-toxic and safe for the environment. It also lasts much longer than regular under-oil. I would also not even paint the frame, all that painting does is trap moisture and block the under-oil from contacting the metal and sealing out water and oxygen. I would just hit it with a wire wheel and spray on some wool wax black, it also comes in a 5 gallon bucket so you have plenty. The gun that applies it the best is the kelsport pro. Also wool wax can be applied right on top of rust and it makes prep work a breeze, just knock off the loose stuff. Hope that helps! It should last forever if you do that.
Rich, not trying to pick apart the build, but avoid the rubberized coating on surfaces exposed to possible damage. A stray rock could break the coating, cause moisture to build up underneath and then the coating traps the moisture to the metal rather than keep it out. Just some food for thought.
Thank you about the rocker and corner cab advice, i'm going to be doing both of those to my truck eventually this summer. Gotta love the Onterrible salty roads.
"we're doing a full color change while were at it" *paints the truck white again* I was excited to see a different color but white does look really good on these GMT800's so I can't say I'm too upset about it. Can't wait to see the finished product!
@@DEBOSSGARAGE ah, that should look real nice then. Usually when I think of color change, I think of going from white to blue or something along those lines. Can't wait to see the finished product!
Really cool to see someone put the time in to make it right. Most people here in the rust belt just throw em out and get another one to rot to pieces, rinse and repeat.
Last comment, I promise. On all the unseen part you want to really rust proof..POR-15 is probably the best option you could ever go with. It has to be top coated on the outside of the vehicle because it has no UV protection built in but the any untreated metal would pretty much rot off where you stop coating. That's how good of a product it is.
You’re doing some great work there Ron! The Ford I was working on yesterday didn’t have spray foam, but I guess it was a ‘49 and it doesn’t have any insulation whatsoever other than the vinyl clad cardboard trim panels in it. 😂 That 3M body filler is pricey stuff!
I live in Arizona so I have a hard time wrapping my head around the concept. It’s crazy to see these trucks turn into scrap metal in such a short amount of time.
I saw a guy on a forum extended the mudflaps with plastic around the inside of the rear wheel well to keep less salt flying up into the rear bumper and under the box. It was notched out for the rear shock and axle tube. I thought it was a pretty good idea. And don't feel bad about the cab and box purchase. The rockers and windshield frame on my dad's '02 chevy he bought new in Florida are rusted out. I think the '99-06 GM eat rockers no matter where you live.
You aren't the only one. I have a 2004 Z71 I got for $1,000 and it needs EVERYTHING. It has turned into a full, off frame restoration. But on the bright side, it will be a brand new truck once I'm done with it. Sigh... so much work.
@13:17 trucks always seem to rust from the inside there because the auto makers use foam panel bond to join the inner/outer pieces. It holds water and makes it rust fast.
The change coming out reminded me of a time I was doing door hinges on a chevy and the door was filled half way up with change and a bunch of 1 dollar bills
I just used tremclad on my 1992 F450... I was thinking it was not good enough was was looking for something else... I guess it will work perfectly fine after all.
You gotta talk to chivy and ferd...tell them what your doing to make it water proof!!!..... I wish them trucks last 10 years again like they should Says merl haggard
8:10 no if you angle it you have chances to blow up the blade... I did that while doing leaf springs It blew up on me 3 times the third time it actually swung around and acut my hand right to the bare bone. Keep your blade as straight as you can...
I had a 2007 Sierra Classic that needed cab corners and rockers, body shop (supposedly a good one) charged me the going rate and then just filled it up with dough. Did not last 3 years.
How do they like those new PPS cups? We were using the old ones, and was just told that 3M are discontinuing them. We are gonna use the rest of the old ones, but then gonna use the new ones. Not a fan of the Sata cups because of having to use a vent on the top, forgetting to open it or close it sucks.
Rich, regarding the 'perpendicular' angle of the angle grinder. Check out Fitzee Fabrications on TH-cam and see Tony's Cut and Butt method. It makes splicing sheet metal much easier. Incidentally, Tony uses and angle cut on his angle grinder to get a nice tight seam, opposite to what you suggest.
The thickness of the blade is about the thickness of the steel, so if the steel is laying on top, its the perfect amount removed once the old stuff is out of the way.
@@DEBOSSGARAGE you should watch his vid tho he is amazing and his angle cut dose make sense for a tight joint , worth the watch just to open ones mind up from the traditional way of butt welding .
![It Looks Pink! '05 Silverado gets a 2021 Color Code | #24vSilverado [EP5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-eU4cguLH-w/mqdefault.jpg)
![It Looks Pink! '05 Silverado gets a 2021 Color Code | #24vSilverado [EP5]](/img/tr.png)
Sitting in that shop with the bay door open staring at your beautiful house and knowing you built it all must be a great feeling Rich. Awesome job
I have been blessed, that's for sure with health, motivation and talents. thankful everyday
Amen brother!
DEBOSS GARAGE Can u please make a video regarding the Titan XD 5.0 Cummins diesel!!! Thanks
Painting is never the problem, all the prep work is the pain
So much work. Frustrating too, as your only job as a body man is to make it look like you didn't do anything
@@DEBOSSGARAGE haha
@@DEBOSSGARAGE That is very true please inform people of more bodywork secrets
The local dent shop has a slogan that says “Helaas is ons werk onzichtbaar” (Dutch for “unfortunately our work is invisible”) :D
@@DEBOSSGARAGE Gets tricky to do on Mazdas, the clear coat is as cheesy as it comes, and somehow you have to try replicate it. Caught me out a couple times in my career as a painter, have a minty flat smooth guard and door, yet the rear quarter looks like an orange skin
NIce. That should be enough for at least six months before rusting away.
Idk that might be a stretch
LOL
It's a chevy..... It's already starting to rust.
@@ryry998 I think a Corvette will even rust in Canada.
3 months in Minnesota
that body shop guy is a funny character!
The sound of loose change hitting the floor, is enough to stop any Dutch man in his tracks
Very well done Rich... This is going to look great. Looking forward to seeing the videos to come
I can't breathe lmfao
Tell me about it 😂
Met two sleeping in their vehicle for 2 years
One was German the other holland.
i'm surprised fluid film hasn't sponsored rich yet, its the right environment for it
I used to oil down my salting trucks and it helped. But Fluid film is way better!
This is how you do it, glad Winnipeg is slowly trying to faze out salt, like Saskatchewan.
NB throws it down like its fun
Couple spots in BC are trying out Beet Juice, not that kind of Beet juice ;) seems to be working ok.
Edmonton started pouring calcium chloride on the roads before snowstorms a couple years ago. It SUCKS!!!!!
@@bobsmith2637 Calgary is the same, then they go overboard with the salt. Once the snow is gone, the roads are still white.
@@abpsd73 and then our cars are white too, well, at least until they turn orange
It’s so frustrating living in the “rust belt & suspenders” region of the north. No matter how much effort a guy puts in to rust-proofing and preventing, it will STILL rot to nothing within a decade. I went through this exact same process on a 96 Ram I picked up that was 100% clean and rust-free. Painting and coating and oiling inside and over and under everything. Spent a couple months on & off getting it all done. And within 3 years it was showing rust in the typical areas. I’ve come to understand that if you drive a vehicle regularly, in the winter, in this area, there is nothing you can do to stop that rust. Slow it down maybe, but you can’t stop it (short of plastic panels).
** First they sand the roads, to effectively sandblast the rockers and wheel wells. Then they salt heavily to get some surface rust going. Then comes the mag chloride (liquid de-icing chemical) that can penetrate into areas that the salt can’t get into, and also soaks into any of that foam & fabric sound deadening material & of course the carpet & padding. Hooray for the super-salt north country.
Quite the rant but I do not blame you or envy you
You're not wrong.. Vehicles are practically disposable up here, and the worst investment you can make. I can't help but think this re-body process, as entertaining as it is, would be an incredible waste of time and money if not for the video content it creates.
you can slow it down by religiously washing the undercarriage but its miserable in the winter
Get yourself a titanium bicycle
Been applying fluid film twice a year to my 06 duramax, every single year since 2008. Has little to no rust on it. Seen it work first hand in the mining industry, totally different than Krown or other products as its more of a wax than an oil. I believe its actually lanolin which is derived from sheep. Only thing I’d use in northern Ontario.
If only trucks and pets aged a little slower
facts…
If I could just repaint the dog and put in a new engine...
absolutely!
@@ryanroberts1104 LOL
the truck should at east last longer then mans best friend ,nothing better then a dog and a truck
I’ve been using a siphon spray gun to coat my vehicles with old diesel motor oil for years. I still drive my 93 first gen every day. I’m in Maine where we use more calcium on the roads then asphalt.
That smile looking at the painted panels was what we work on are stuff for! Love it!
Man the amount of work that goes into these builds is insane
thanks for recognizing!
@@DEBOSSGARAGE where do you even find the time to do the work, edit videos and have a life ?
the guys at the body shop seem like good sport all around
really fun atmosphere. lunch is supplied every Friday, and I even got in trouble for showing up late. if I hang out there too much longer, I think I'll be expected at the Christmas party
Sometimes I love being a lounge chair pointer - slap an aluminum flat bed on it and a lot of time, money, and effort is saved!
Everytime I hear that bus engine intro I have to replay it. Pretty good
It’s so hilarious.
Good morning brother, perfect video for me to wake up to on a Sunday morning! 4 a.m. here in Arizona and about to head to my welding and Fab shop to make some room to work on my new truck!
Living in Aus, simply blows my mind about the rust, next level. When registering a car is there a point in which they say nup to much lol
yup when its major. like a open frame. also on unibody cars.
its not rare to see a full size truck bend in half because the frame broke between the cab and bed.
and even a 2010 car can be so rusted out the rear crossmember can fall off because there is nothing holding it to the car anymore.
alot of honda ride do that. like the pilot, Cr-v, ridgeline, element.
i was thinking if you would use rustoleum during the build 😂 Scotty's Lockdown Wagon
He did use Rust-Oleum they call it trim clad in Canada
If only trucks from the factory were protected this well
Then you'd never buy a new one
Rich, This is one of your Best Videos. Really nice detail and workmanship! Thank you!
Awesome build, and on a personal note- About damned time you started taking care of your hands. I learned that lesson the hard way, and as a result I have 9 working fingers, and carpal tunnel bad enough that the rest are numb most of the time, on top of arthritis and nerve damage.
You only get one set, and while they will usually heal up after a bout of stupidity, there is a limit. I am glad you're setting a good example.
Just sat down for dinner in Australia perfect timing cheers mate
I've seen some parts of OZ have a mickey mouse problem 😂 looks scary
22:06 Oh yeah that ground clamp. I do the same thing. Its a terrible habit to get in but it's so much easier than cutting the wire. Just burn it off on the ground clamp.
Whenever you run into trouble with a gap that's too big, it's perfectly acceptable to take a piece with the same contour and make a sleeve that your new part will lay on top of. That way you get a more soled repair without overheating the metal and causing it to shrink AND you aren't overheating the metal and work hardening as well as changing the properties of it with too much heat and creating a spot that will rot in the end. When you are done with paint and everything, use a cavity wax and tube that will corrosion protect from the inside forever.
I did all my body work then painted it epoxy primer and T Rex bedliner then did a paint job over the bedliner then did a matte clear over it years ago and still looks like it was done yesterday.
You will probably find all the metal is rotted away but the paint is still there pristine.
I just find this funny. I have a '00 Silverado, almost 190k miles. Spent it's whole life in NC. The clear coat is gone, the previous owner dented the bed side down to bare metal and it won't rust. Underneath you would swear it isn't more than 5 years old! Might be some dirt, but NO rust! Not even on the original exhaust.
Based on the condition of the paint I'd say it's never been indoors and it hasn't even been washed in many years.
rich, that much change probably gets in there because you're tall. I had the same thing in my cars/trucks and it turned out every time i got in and out my knees were higher than my waist and i would leak coins.
Are you going to improve on the sound deadening and heat insulation as you're putting the truck back together? Probably the best time to do it and a truck old as that isn't the quietest thing.
Yessir. First thing going back on is B-Quiet on the firewall and inside the cab
@@DEBOSSGARAGE Rich, sound deadening inside the doors, on the outside door skin helps a lot too. 👍
Nice vid:] I have a 2000 Silverado love the thing! I spray oil on the underbody three times a year mostly in the wash zones. I was lucky and the conservation maintained my truck for 15 years before I got it. Another thing I do to keep the rust away is when she gets wet I take her for a long drive to dry off.
Nice work Rich! I did basically the same rebuild on my old 1979 square body Chev in 2004. Instead of using paint on the inside surfaces, I used Rustoleum cold galvanizing compound. Great stuff, and available almost everywhere. After paint I oiled the truck every year and when I sold it last fall it still had very little rust. Drove it every day year-round right here in good old Ontario too! Good luck on the build. Love your channel.
New favourite channel! Especially as I am in the middle of working on my shitbox. A lot of motivation, thanks :)
Great vid! Love the in depth corner and rocker segment
Rich, if you don’t mind the look I would really recommend some mud flaps. I have had them on my truck since new and it has saved my 03 from having the rockers eaten apart. It also saves your cab corners and floor. I also really recommend wool wax, it is non-toxic and safe for the environment. It also lasts much longer than regular under-oil. I would also not even paint the frame, all that painting does is trap moisture and block the under-oil from contacting the metal and sealing out water and oxygen. I would just hit it with a wire wheel and spray on some wool wax black, it also comes in a 5 gallon bucket so you have plenty. The gun that applies it the best is the kelsport pro. Also wool wax can be applied right on top of rust and it makes prep work a breeze, just knock off the loose stuff. Hope that helps! It should last forever if you do that.
this needs a total cost at the end with the change included
Rich, not trying to pick apart the build, but avoid the rubberized coating on surfaces exposed to possible damage. A stray rock could break the coating, cause moisture to build up underneath and then the coating traps the moisture to the metal rather than keep it out. Just some food for thought.
Great content is always! Glad you're using the gloves.
Zinc chromate aircraft primer is the stuff to use. I used that when I did bedsides on my 03 Ram 2500, as well as Eastwood’s weld through primer.
I'm very happy to have stumbled upon your channel. Thanks for documenting your work and sharing your expertise.
Powder and sanding for low spots was super slick! I've never seen that personally
You know he's using those mastercraft wood chisels to smash the tack welds open, cuz that's all that junk is good for 😂🤣
Get after er !!
Was just watching V-Tuned assembling his Mustang, and he really needs that spot welder. That thing is definitely the way to seal a body.
The welder is about $30 000
Thank you about the rocker and corner cab advice, i'm going to be doing both of those to my truck eventually this summer. Gotta love the Onterrible salty roads.
"we're doing a full color change while were at it"
*paints the truck white again*
I was excited to see a different color but white does look really good on these GMT800's so I can't say I'm too upset about it. Can't wait to see the finished product!
it's a pearl white from the 2021 Escalades
@@DEBOSSGARAGE ah, that should look real nice then. Usually when I think of color change, I think of going from white to blue or something along those lines. Can't wait to see the finished product!
Really cool to see someone put the time in to make it right. Most people here in the rust belt just throw em out and get another one to rot to pieces, rinse and repeat.
Last comment, I promise. On all the unseen part you want to really rust proof..POR-15 is probably the best option you could ever go with. It has to be top coated on the outside of the vehicle because it has no UV protection built in but the any untreated metal would pretty much rot off where you stop coating. That's how good of a product it is.
It's honestly really satisfying seeing a round body get special treatment. I love these model trucks!
Pearl white, wow getting fancy on us.
Happy that your hands are a-ok with the new gloves!
And your truck is gonna be great, really fun video, learning a lot.
You’re doing some great work there Ron! The Ford I was working on yesterday didn’t have spray foam, but I guess it was a ‘49 and it doesn’t have any insulation whatsoever other than the vinyl clad cardboard trim panels in it. 😂 That 3M body filler is pricey stuff!
I love the FURZE shirt!
"Frame off restoration of a 05 Silverado" Sounds crazy when you say it out loud. But she's gana be a champ!
I’m planning on doing this to my 01. I’m not sure what engine I want to put in it tho. It’s starting to get rusty
I live in Arizona so I have a hard time wrapping my head around the concept. It’s crazy to see these trucks turn into scrap metal in such a short amount of time.
Got to love living in the north. This will be an interesting video
Doing things the right way is usually not easy, but it makes you happy that it was done correctly and will normally last longer 🤞🏻🤞🏻
Hells yeah waiting for another on this ute. 👍👍👍👍👍🇦🇺
Rich, you are one really hard working man.
I saw a guy on a forum extended the mudflaps with plastic around the inside of the rear wheel well to keep less salt flying up into the rear bumper and under the box. It was notched out for the rear shock and axle tube. I thought it was a pretty good idea. And don't feel bad about the cab and box purchase. The rockers and windshield frame on my dad's '02 chevy he bought new in Florida are rusted out. I think the '99-06 GM eat rockers no matter where you live.
I use the diamond cutting blade on my grinder. It causes less sparks and heat. It saves time changing disks and they last a long time.
Dang it's going to be a whole new truck! Great work guys! 👌
You aren't the only one. I have a 2004 Z71 I got for $1,000 and it needs EVERYTHING. It has turned into a full, off frame restoration. But on the bright side, it will be a brand new truck once I'm done with it. Sigh... so much work.
Those r the cleanest I’ve ever seen Rich’s hands
You should put paint to match boost auto tow mirrors on. A simple upgrade that makes a huge difference
You
Need
A camera guy, firmly believe it would take this channel from 500-1m
Just like a new truck spot welder that guy has his really cool I used to have a little handheld one it didn't work that good
What product are you going to use for the cavities like inside rockers and so on?
Lanolin has become more popular over the years.
Holy shit. Rich's hands are clean!
Maybe there is hope for 2021.
@13:17 trucks always seem to rust from the inside there because the auto makers use foam panel bond to join the inner/outer pieces. It holds water and makes it rust fast.
The change coming out reminded me of a time I was doing door hinges on a chevy and the door was filled half way up with change and a bunch of 1 dollar bills
Awesome update Rich - looking forward to the next video.
I just used tremclad on my 1992 F450... I was thinking it was not good enough was was looking for something else... I guess it will work perfectly fine after all.
I put it on my frame in 07 when I got the truck and most of it was still there
@@DEBOSSGARAGE nice good to know
Watching this after doing my own, you make it look easy but I truly know the swearing and beer needed to make it through this
Can't wait to see what the truck looks like after a couple of years in Canadian winters.
Old school wants to run! Too cool.
As a body guy I’d say you did a great job
Alway love the videos big shout out from south texas
Hell yeah! Always wait for your videos you're the man love the content
Use RP342 sprayable cosmoline. After hundreds of hours of research its the best thing next to oil spray
Love to watch you doing this stuff!
This is gonna be fun on my 00 Passat next week. I can't wait. 😅
You gotta talk to chivy and ferd...tell them what your doing to make it water proof!!!..... I wish them trucks last 10 years again like they should Says merl haggard
This is gonna be a great video and I can't wait to watch!
Love the shirt you where wearing in the into
Those rocker panels ended up pretty good! I was curious how that was going to work out 👍👍👍
8:10 no if you angle it you have chances to blow up the blade... I did that while doing leaf springs It blew up on me 3 times the third time it actually swung around and acut my hand right to the bare bone.
Keep your blade as straight as you can...
If do nothing short off gelcoat lol.
Maybe an extra layer of two part of ship coating epoxy.
Well that escalated quickly! Full blown project there.
Super cool welder
Looks great Rich!
I had a 2007 Sierra Classic that needed cab corners and rockers, body shop (supposedly a good one) charged me the going rate and then just filled it up with dough. Did not last 3 years.
Fluid film is the best rust proof I've found
Perfection great job Rich.
Chevy with a Cummins. Perfect 👍
question Rich.. does seam epoxy not work / hold up for you in the cold / salt / rust belt? that would be easier and help to keep thing water tight.
How do they like those new PPS cups? We were using the old ones, and was just told that 3M are discontinuing them. We are gonna use the rest of the old ones, but then gonna use the new ones. Not a fan of the Sata cups because of having to use a vent on the top, forgetting to open it or close it sucks.
you do amazing work deboss .
Furrrzze 👌👍 great work Rich. Thats ALOT of work
Idk if you already thought of it but you should have ppf put on your door jams to avoid boots scuffing through all your hard work 😎
Karl Urban's "distant cousin" is hilarious!
Rich, regarding the 'perpendicular' angle of the angle grinder. Check out Fitzee Fabrications on TH-cam and see Tony's Cut and Butt method. It makes splicing sheet metal much easier. Incidentally, Tony uses and angle cut on his angle grinder to get a nice tight seam, opposite to what you suggest.
The thickness of the blade is about the thickness of the steel, so if the steel is laying on top, its the perfect amount removed once the old stuff is out of the way.
@@DEBOSSGARAGE you should watch his vid tho he is amazing and his angle cut dose make sense for a tight joint , worth the watch just to open ones mind up from the traditional way of butt welding .
Looking good Rich. Nice ☝️👍👍
I hope that paint is OBS green/silver two tone, hahaha! That'd be a trip!