Ohhhhh man the sound of it on that last run makes me sad…. Gutted that this has killed what was a great, yet still developing benchmark on maxing stock fuel / ecu setup. Hope that the damage isn’t too catastrophic! Be interested to know if the R35’s are compatible with a radium fuel rail & the gte intake manifold etc with no mods? Best of luck with getting the car back together & fingers crossed on the damage 👍👍
U need bigger injectors even if on stock rail with a return line...get rid of maf and run speed density map ..like ecu masters black here in usa driftmotion and a bolt check on car ...that's it...I have is300 sc300 sc400 cressida mx83 with 2jz r154 390 diff. Had other cars in life but is300 light but hard to get ecm to work with cluster ect...well u full race car so emu black ecu ge block pluss gte rods 750 injectors or 1200 if go e85 and send it...get a egt gage...anything over 1100 on pump or 100 let off. That melt pistons and head...iv done it before..on mk3 and cress ..both made about high 6 to low 7...
Good write up, unfortunately all to be ruined by a lousy pushlok fitting! If you plan to keep the stock ecu, perhaps you could have an electric gauge with hi temp alarm so at least you could see it on the dash? Or multi gauge for oil and fuel pressure as well. I'm running the Jrp 14in1 gauge for my jetski and is300 Can you tell me if you can install the engine with turbo manifold and upper and lower intake manifold?
Stock ECU and all the other gear like exhaust, turbo and all that! My cluster shows shut off warnings at over 100°c Hope ya update to a standalone! ❤ I run a Fueltech in mine.
So the stock Aristo ECU can add enough fueling to compensate for 500hp with no sort of tuning? That’s wild. I’m installing a catless downpipe/mid pipe on my aristo and I’ll probably be looking at around 15psi on the stock twins and I was worried about leaning out! Will this probably not happen? I’ve also heard the 440 injectors are only good for about 400hp, how were you able to push 500hp? Thanks for any info! I’m pretty new to the 2jz platform and car builds in general.
I put a 60/68 on my aristo it’s currently around 14psi but making more power than it did at 17 on the twins and its still has a ton of injector left in it stock ecu with a aeromotive 340
Would i be better off running the non emobilized gte ecu with the gte harness instead or repining the ge harness i have to it or can i use the ge gs300 harness that i have
Damn sorry to hear about the damages, ran great before that though! Im busy researching that turbo for a 3.6 engine and im curious how spool is on bigger 6 cyl engines, can you tell me when the turbo starts boosting and what ar the exhaust housing was? Im considering the divided t4 .85
I see, thanks for the response, will have to go wise up and see if i can calc if it will come on sooner for the 3.6 LLT engine i have at my planned 18psi. Was hoping for boost starting at 3K, not sure if the extra 600cc will help that much. Perhaps i should rather look at 3076 with .82 ar?
Hi Man, just Subbed to your Channel. Loved the build and thanks for sharing what happened. Im swaping the same engine into a FRS | BRZ chasis, running stock ECU and having boost cut at 14.5 - 14.7 PSI on 93 octane pump gas. 2 Questions: 1) my AFR goes down to 10.0 on high boost. Im running 43.5 psi fuel pressure and I dont see any boost leak. Did yours improve on this when you relocated the MAF? I still have it on the cold side before the Turbo (CXraxing design) 2) How were you able to run 17 psi without boost cut? Any BCC or something? Thanks in advance brother
Yes overall the movement of the Maf helped a lot of small things. I have no added additional mods to run more boost but I have heard other people have boost cut at 14psi. I’m not sure as to why some people see different results with different boost cut levels. I haven’t done it but I have heard of others who un plugged the map sensor to get more boost but I can’t verify those results.
@@KBNZUS thanks mate! I re Watch your video and saw your still on the oem fpr. So did some research and apparently runs 37 psi. Lowered that and now on 15 psi the AFR is at 10.1- 10.5
If you get rid of the factory turbo setup and don’t run a recirculated blow off valve the car will stall out when letting off gas. Moving the maf there eliminates that, and in my opinion the car runs better overall with a single turbo setup. It also allows to run a bigger intake on your turbo which can help create faster spool times.
@@KBNZUS anyone out there make this specific piping already? or would i have to find someone to make me a custom one. looking for one for my aristo swapped gs300 single turbo.
3576 is safer , lower exhaust manifold pressure. It really comes down to the set up tho. Pump gas/ low boost the smaller turbo is better. E85 / more than about 1 bar (14psi) I would go 3576. If it's a 2.5 a 3076 may be better. If it's 2.8/3.0/3.2 a 3576 may be better.
@@KBNZUS Thanks man, Yea when I had my e36 jz it keep throwing belts like crazy even with a excessive tensioner setup but I didnt like the way it looked or performed.
I respect you and your build, and I'm not calling you a liar. but something does not add up here. The Dyno run was extremely short, about half as long as they usually go for. the actual graph shown looks very skewed, there are multiple pulls ranging from 350hp at 6000rpm to 500hp at 6500rpm, peak torque seems to be at 5500rpm (which is wrong for a stock 2jz), for peak torque to be this late in the rpm you either should have huge cams or something else. The biggest red flag is that it is actually physically impossible to run 500hp on 440cc injectors, like it's actually impossible, especially on a stock ECU. My guess is you did this Dyno pull in 3rd gear instead of a 1:1 ratio, this car ain't 500hp homie
@@KBNZUS that's not what the Dyno graph shows man, it's not right. Like you don't even have a Piggyback ECU, you can't physically flow the lb/min of fuel to accommodate the air needed for 500hp. My guy, it's impossible.
@@user-qj2cq4dv3k what do you mean anymore? Do you realise that the injectors would be at 115% duty cycle? THAT is not possible, unless he is running like 60 psi base fuel pressure.
@@RallyRanchMotorsport doesn’t Toyota over engineer stuff? I’m sure there’s ways to squeeze performance out of stuff maybe not for long but long enough
Great great content .thank you for educating some of us problem im having is that after we converted our 2jz gte non vvti to single turbo the car couldnt rev higher than 2500 RPM .i really really need your advice or if you got a number i can contact you on watsap
14:45 absolutely baking bro! 💪
Anymore info on the second drive belt pulley
Keep up the work your putting a name with the is300 chassis 🙏🏼👏🏼🔥.
Thank you!
4 Years is great!
Ohhhhh man the sound of it on that last run makes me sad….
Gutted that this has killed what was a great, yet still developing benchmark on maxing stock fuel / ecu setup.
Hope that the damage isn’t too catastrophic!
Be interested to know if the R35’s are compatible with a radium fuel rail & the gte intake manifold etc with no mods?
Best of luck with getting the car back together & fingers crossed on the damage 👍👍
U need bigger injectors even if on stock rail with a return line...get rid of maf and run speed density map ..like ecu masters black here in usa driftmotion and a bolt check on car ...that's it...I have is300 sc300 sc400 cressida mx83 with 2jz r154 390 diff. Had other cars in life but is300 light but hard to get ecm to work with cluster ect...well u full race car so emu black ecu ge block pluss gte rods 750 injectors or 1200 if go e85 and send it...get a egt gage...anything over 1100 on pump or 100 let off. That melt pistons and head...iv done it before..on mk3 and cress ..both made about high 6 to low 7...
Damn what a good video! Cheers
I think my stock ecu 2JZ was having running issues cuz I have my BOV where you put your MAF. Never got it to fully run right before I blew it up.
Good write up, unfortunately all to be ruined by a lousy pushlok fitting! If you plan to keep the stock ecu, perhaps you could have an electric gauge with hi temp alarm so at least you could see it on the dash? Or multi gauge for oil and fuel pressure as well. I'm running the Jrp 14in1 gauge for my jetski and is300
Can you tell me if you can install the engine with turbo manifold and upper and lower intake manifold?
I removed it all with these bolted so it should go back in with it all on as well
Stock ECU and all the other gear like exhaust, turbo and all that! My cluster shows shut off warnings at over 100°c Hope ya update to a standalone! ❤ I run a Fueltech in mine.
Water wetter not allowed at clutch kickers?
I have both ecus one emobilized and one non
Sad times but that's motorsport.. Hoping for a follow-up. ❤
So the stock Aristo ECU can add enough fueling to compensate for 500hp with no sort of tuning? That’s wild. I’m installing a catless downpipe/mid pipe on my aristo and I’ll probably be looking at around 15psi on the stock twins and I was worried about leaning out! Will this probably not happen? I’ve also heard the 440 injectors are only good for about 400hp, how were you able to push 500hp? Thanks for any info! I’m pretty new to the 2jz platform and car builds in general.
I put a 60/68 on my aristo it’s currently around 14psi but making more power than it did at 17 on the twins and its still has a ton of injector left in it stock ecu with a aeromotive 340
Would i be better off running the non emobilized gte ecu with the gte harness instead or repining the ge harness i have to it or can i use the ge gs300 harness that i have
Yo where did this guy go?
I fell off
Damn sorry to hear about the damages, ran great before that though!
Im busy researching that turbo for a 3.6 engine and im curious how spool is on bigger 6 cyl engines, can you tell me when the turbo starts boosting and what ar the exhaust housing was? Im considering the divided t4 .85
@@dominiquevanwyk518 I had a Normal T4 housing with a .83 and boost hit at about 3700 running 12 psi
I see, thanks for the response, will have to go wise up and see if i can calc if it will come on sooner for the 3.6 LLT engine i have at my planned 18psi.
Was hoping for boost starting at 3K, not sure if the extra 600cc will help that much. Perhaps i should rather look at 3076 with .82 ar?
Also subbed, looking forward to more content, enjoy the journey! And Stock ecu for the win!
Did you have to run an atemu after the cd009 swap?
Bro i have some questions plz
Hi Man, just Subbed to your Channel.
Loved the build and thanks for sharing what happened.
Im swaping the same engine into a FRS | BRZ chasis, running stock ECU and having boost cut at 14.5 - 14.7 PSI on 93 octane pump gas.
2 Questions:
1) my AFR goes down to 10.0 on high boost. Im running 43.5 psi fuel pressure and I dont see any boost leak. Did yours improve on this when you relocated the MAF? I still have it on the cold side before the Turbo (CXraxing design)
2) How were you able to run 17 psi without boost cut? Any BCC or something?
Thanks in advance brother
Yes overall the movement of the Maf helped a lot of small things. I have no added additional mods to run more boost but I have heard other people have boost cut at 14psi. I’m not sure as to why some people see different results with different boost cut levels. I haven’t done it but I have heard of others who un plugged the map sensor to get more boost but I can’t verify those results.
@@KBNZUS thanks mate! I re Watch your video and saw your still on the oem fpr. So did some research and apparently runs 37 psi. Lowered that and now on 15 psi the AFR is at 10.1- 10.5
What is the purpose of moving the MAF after the intercooler ?
If you get rid of the factory turbo setup and don’t run a recirculated blow off valve the car will stall out when letting off gas. Moving the maf there eliminates that, and in my opinion the car runs better overall with a single turbo setup. It also allows to run a bigger intake on your turbo which can help create faster spool times.
@@KBNZUS so if you did run a blow off valve you would install it before the maf that’s installed on the cold side?
@@KBNZUS anyone out there make this specific piping already? or would i have to find someone to make me a custom one. looking for one for my aristo swapped gs300 single turbo.
For normal use, original power, the engine works well at idle, locating the maf sensor before the throttle body?
Yes!
That blue SnapOn box in the background is sick. Is it for sale?
yea $50
Hey mate is there a video i can watch that breaks down what you did to be confident your engine was running well on the stock ecu?
Hello the only thing I did was make sure AFR's were good under heavy acceleration. I had zero drivability concerns with this setup
Would you run a 3076 with a .86 rear housing instead of doing a 3576 with a .63 if you could go back?
Im not sure honestly I would have to run both setups to compare
3576 is safer , lower exhaust manifold pressure. It really comes down to the set up tho. Pump gas/ low boost the smaller turbo is better. E85 / more than about 1 bar (14psi) I would go 3576. If it's a 2.5 a 3076 may be better. If it's 2.8/3.0/3.2 a 3576 may be better.
@@jasonschreiber6458 yea I bought the 3576 with a .82ar. Im running similar setup to this video but with a non vvti
Does the aristo ECU respond to OBD2 dongles ans scans?
I think if setup correctly you should be able to, I have not tried
Are you running a hks fcd or apexi safc2?
nope
Got a sub from me!! Is that Tensioner Pulley mod released somewhere to buy? Keep up the awesome content!
I don’t think it’s available for purchase. I will look into the details of it tho
@@KBNZUS Thanks man, Yea when I had my e36 jz it keep throwing belts like crazy even with a excessive tensioner setup but I didnt like the way it looked or performed.
Read my post..knolage is power...
I respect you and your build, and I'm not calling you a liar. but something does not add up here.
The Dyno run was extremely short, about half as long as they usually go for. the actual graph shown looks very skewed, there are multiple pulls ranging from 350hp at 6000rpm to 500hp at 6500rpm, peak torque seems to be at 5500rpm (which is wrong for a stock 2jz), for peak torque to be this late in the rpm you either should have huge cams or something else. The biggest red flag is that it is actually physically impossible to run 500hp on 440cc injectors, like it's actually impossible, especially on a stock ECU.
My guess is you did this Dyno pull in 3rd gear instead of a 1:1 ratio, this car ain't 500hp homie
It was done in 4th gear
@@KBNZUS that's not what the Dyno graph shows man, it's not right.
Like you don't even have a Piggyback ECU, you can't physically flow the lb/min of fuel to accommodate the air needed for 500hp. My guy, it's impossible.
@@RallyRanchMotorsport not impossible anymore
@@user-qj2cq4dv3k what do you mean anymore?
Do you realise that the injectors would be at 115% duty cycle? THAT is not possible, unless he is running like 60 psi base fuel pressure.
@@RallyRanchMotorsport doesn’t Toyota over engineer stuff? I’m sure there’s ways to squeeze performance out of stuff maybe not for long but long enough
Great great content .thank you for educating some of us problem im having is that after we converted our 2jz gte non vvti to single turbo the car couldnt rev higher than 2500 RPM .i really really need your advice or if you got a number i can contact you on watsap
do you have the MaF installed and in the correct direction?
It's using a map sensor
@@KBNZUS loved your build, i have moved the maf on the cold side but still having hesitation and bogging down issue. what is the correct direction?