Adam Savage's One Day Builds: The Matrix EMP Switch!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2022
- Adam returns to the world of The Matrix to challenge himself with an obscure prop replica project: recreating the Nebuchadnezzar's EMP switch seen and used at the end of the first movie (spoilers!). It's a prop that Adam has not seen anyone else try to recreate before, and he scratch builds his version of it after scouring through screenshots and finding the perfect switches and dials to match what was seen on screen. Let's dive into this deep cut One Day Build!
Adam Savage in Real Time: Weathering the Matrix EMP Switch: • Adam Savage in Real Ti...
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Josh Self
Music by Jinglepunks
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You could always have tigged the flange together.
The mystery switch may be some type of “Rotary Cam Selector Switch Handle”. Search images of the type show a center screw and some with extended lever knobs which this one may possibly be.
Unable to find the exact kind within about 20 pages deep of search results.
How the fuck are you not uploading a Star Wars video on Star Wars day when YOU WORKED ON STAR WARS?!?!
One thing I would do different is have the big red switch kill the power to the light when you flip it. It is after all supposed to kill all electronics
Does Adam Savage know about the Blade Runner RPG on Kickstarter right now by Free League Publishing?
Adam, if I heard you correctly that switch is rated for 110 volts? DUDE! You need to wire that in as the main switch for your shop lights in the front of the cave. Imagine hitting the EMP on the way home every night... and the lights go out!
if wired in to your lighting, which would be very cool. you should use a motor contactor with a 24/28 VDC coil. the switch should have a replicable bulb/LED. using a low voltage control circuit will keep any inspector happy and you safe.
@@jimnunn9232 A light switch would be the least of his concerns in that cave lol.
This comment needs more thumbs up!!!!
if it was attached to lights, it would need to have DIPs that control SCRs make it flicker then fade off ;)
Moreso to a switchable relay that is linked to the main breaker for safety. The amperage of the entire lighting system in the shop may overload the switch if it was carrying that load alone
"Everything was in whole numbers. 1/2 inch, 5/8, 3/8, that kind of thing." - Adam Savage 2022
Me, who measures in centimeters: 😮
@@SerGlushko Why the face? 5/8 inch is 1.5875 cm, and 3/8 is 0.9525, so easy, you need only 4 decimal digits
@@zetijeti sure thing 😅
Yeah, funny thing... We call those "fractions" in the UK. "Whole numbers" are a completely different thing. 😂
Gotta love those imperial units!
"I'm not that crazy" YOU KNOW HE'S STILL LOOKING FOR THE CORRECT KNOBS.
Tbf I would too.
The only change I would do to this, though it's not completely accurate to the movie, would be to get an old camera flash capacitor and wire that in to charge when the cover opened. That steady build up sound as it charges would produce such a perfect complimentary sound effect.
And have the flash bulb discharge when the main switch is thrown... Even if it's hidden in the box, just for the noise alone.. Just for that little extra...
I LOVE where your head's at.
From what I gather it's not the capacitor, it was the charging circuitries in those days that made it noisy... Capacitors in external flash devices have only gotten more powerful in a much smaller form factor but I can't hear my modern flash device charge itself (which, given the stupid amount of power it can draw between 2 full-output flashes happens a lot faster than in the old flash devices), but if I grab my mom's old flash device I hear it immediately.
i was going to comment something similar
@@Dutch3DMaster yes, the coils of the dc/dc converter that converts the battery voltage to the high voltage to charge the capacitor, make these noises. The modern ones have the same noise but you can't here it, because the switching frequency is to high for human ears. Mostly 100khz and more. Old ones are in audio range.
I like how the imperial units are so internalized that he calls "5/8" a whole number :D .
Shout out to The Editor; the "oof" on the garbage can miss was noticed & appreciated. Ask Adam for a raise-
...or maybe a cafe mocha on the house.
"I'm gonna weather the crap outta this!" should be a new t-shirt design.
My kids have that on a shirt just above a photo of my face.
@@vitaservo314 You sure it's a photo of your "face?" More of a question for a Mom.
@@vitaservo314 Funny, all of my kid's shirts are clean on the back and weathered on the front.
Hearing Adam actually say "*bandsaw noises*" totally made my day.
Regarding toner setting: Check if you have a PAPER WEIGHT settings in your printer profile. Heavier paper weight settings will increase the temperature, OR slow the feed down for that very reason (setting the toner on more heat-resistant substrates).
The fluted knob you made looks a lot like a gas appliance pilot/on/off knob. Like from a water heater or furnace.
Hi Adam, printer technician here (for a number of brands). Outright heat isn't the primary culprit here - time in the heat is.
Changing the paper type settings has more of an effect than people think. Thick 2 / Glossy not only adjusts the heat, it also slows the paper feed speed down. This means that there is more time for the sheet you're printing on (and thus the toner) to come up to fusing temp. Flash-fusing can be useful, but relying on that is not ideal (think low-n-slow vs searing).
For the best results, you'd be best to look at a printer that has better paper type options. Brother often has good options for this, as do Ricoh/Lanier/Gestetner. Oki aren't bad, but sometimes their colour matching isn't the best.
If you're just after a printer, I'd suggest something like a Ricoh SPC352 or a P C600. Both support up to 220gsm stock, have decent warm up times, and print at 1200x1200 dpi (so nice and crisp images). For Brother, I'd go with something like the HL-L3210CW. I don't get many of the HL series machines back in for repairs - we sell them, then often don't see them for ages. They're bloody reliable.
I was just watching the Matrix: Reloaded, and noticed the EMP button featured on the operator's chair of the Nebuchadnezzar at 1:22:25. The knob/button on the front left hand corner of the box appears to be more like a full on handle that you could grab on to and turn. The prop could've totally been built different for each movie and each ship even. That's just something I noticed about this particular EMP button in Reloaded.
I don't know if there's anything better than hearing Adam laugh when he's got something right. :D
Ikr love the stuff he makes he probably has the best man cave ever😂
THIS is the sort of One Day Build I love the most. Really niche, nerdy, unapologetically enthusiastic
Next time you need specific knobs, search for replacements for recording consoles or guitar pedals. There are many different styles but those are fairly common in that world.
I was also thinking of something in that direction, but more like amps rather than pedals.
Yup, I was thinking they were the exact dials from my 1990 Trace amp.
The whole box kinda looks like a guitar effects pedal!
They reminded me of the knobs on Boss and DOD pedals from the late 80’s/early 90’s. Then I realized every console manufacturer has their own style too so you can find almost anything in many different sizes and colors going the audio gear route.
Site like aliexpress do replicas of all the major ones, at a fraction of the price.
I just finished building a 1/3 scale Marshall stack (which sounds incredible!)
Really wish Adam would do a multi-month build of the self destruct station from the Nostromo. Yes, I'm aware it's an amalgamation of separate props pieced together on screen through the magic of editing, but the idea of making a representation of it as a singlular object would be so epic. And the fact that it could be made as an object that lives in a container/box seems to speak to one of Adam's favorite concepts. And the opportunities for incorporating sound, lighting, animated parts and ridiculous deep diving on the graphics would make it a master-class level build.
Shoutout to the editor who tinted the "first attempt" shot in green a la the matrix (and classic cinema storytelling of showing things in green light that are unnatural or off).
😁
Does your printer driver have an option for printing on "thick" paper?
Most laser printers I've met has that option, and it slows down the fusing process and raises the heat a little to make sure the paper and toner is adequately heated.
Some kind "Cardstock" is the setting you are looking for in the printer driver for paper type. Good printers will have even different weight paper stock to choose from. Some sticky paper companies say use Label setting but that is often not enough for sticker paper like this. On my HP it is under Finishing and then Media Type and I choose Card Glossy 176g-200g.
Print settings for sure. I have an old Dell 1660 and it doesn't embed into the emulsion unless I have the settings right. Right paper right output settings and a warm printer.
Agreed need to set it for 110-150gm paper and it will print much slower and will set better.
I actually like the "rub off" issue with the stickers, for this reason: You can print them, cut them, put them on, then rub them a bit to add "weathering," then seal it with a clear-coat to lock it in.
I was thinking the same thing, it looked perfect for adding wear and tear!
Some kind "Cardstock" is the setting you are looking for in the printer driver for paper type. Good printers will have even different weight paper stock to choose from. Some sticky paper companies say use Label setting but that is often not enough for sticker paper like this. On my HP it is under Finishing and then Media Type and I choose Card Glossy 176g-200g. It makes the printer fuse at a slower speed so the toner gets warming and sticks better.
I was thinking he should’ve used his Cricut to cut out a stencil and then paint the stripes
@@theloneviking9145I absolutely hoped for painted stripes.. Because who wants to see the layer of the sticker paper? Still turned out great though.
@@MrRbabs look at the source material and you can clearly see it is *supposed* to have raised edges where the stripes are a clear printed sticker added after the lid has been moulded
Awesome build. I remember visiting the movie museum at WB years ago shortly following the release of The Dark Knight Rises. All the Batman props were there and I was stunned at how shotty they looked in person (Joker’s suit was the exception, the tiny little squares within each of the hexagonal tesselations were individually stitched, when Joker said “this suit wasn’t cheap”, he wasn’t joking. That was fine European fabrication), the Harry Potter props were just okay but the Matrix props and the Watchmen movie props were insane. Particularly the Matrix. The level of detail was extraordinary. They looked genuinely futuristic and naturally worn. Super intricate with tiny facets a camera with a telephoto lens wouldn’t even appreciate. It was exceptionally crafted, and how fitting; for a film that was so transformative to the industry, to VFX, to sci fi genre, fight choreography, culture and more. Excellent work, Adam
If I'm not mistaking, due to some of the effects used in it, it was a movie shot in a higher resolution than previously was common, which does not allow for fixing things with light and the simple fact the camera or the displaying device can't make out more detail anyway.
It's surprising how much light, camera angles and distances away from props can do to their realism.
*shoddy
@@habeeb102 👍
Did they have the bug extractor device?
@@HonkeyKong54 I can’t remember, I think they did
Use your hot air gun to fully set partially set laser toner. Also an improvement would be to print the EMP and red strips on clear in reverse and apply to the inside of the clear dome. That way the toner won't move around and the stickers won't come lose from handling. I would also use a red LED to light the switch so you don't get the yellow center halo on video. BTW, burnt-sienna or sienna in an acrylic glaze makes a great aging/weathering effect that has a more organic look to it.
Omigosh been commenting this exact same thing, not knowing someone else posted. Great minds think alike!
That turned out so cool!
the knob you were looking for and had to make, it looks a lot like the tip of the knob from an air pressure regulator.
I lost my meagre but fantastic workshop in a messy divorce, I used to sit and make and create and weld and solder and lathe and drill and glue and spray and chop and listen to the radio and just sit whilst my dog lay on his blanket......my wife was jealous and kicked me out and I lost it, even the dog....I now relive my creation lust through your work......thank you.
I feel like activating the EMP knob should kill the light in the switch, since, you know, EMP.
I was thinking something similar
It's not an electronic device, it is an analog electrical device, so EMP won't hurt it. Unironically, the build has no electronics in it :)
Technically, when they shut the systems down to escape the squids, the light stays on, if I remember correctly, which implies that that circuit is unaffected by the EMP...
Turning off would feel like it does something. Could even be timed to turn back on.
@@petertrast I thought EMP kills batteries?
As far as I know, the main component in this piece was from an old submarine. Most of the switches/instruments on the ship/ships were purchased from a navy auction. After completion of filming Reloaded & Revolutions, many of these components were offloaded to Shad in Sydney, and still pop up in the odd film/TV production.
My thoughts exactly, I can recall seeing this knob on an old submarine I trained on, SSBN-635 Sam Rayburn
Shad in Sydney? Shadiversity? I thought he was in Victoria?
I think the rotary knobs you're looking for are Intellijel black knobs by Selco. They have no angle on the step, the caps are replaceable and available separately and come in 2 sizes.
Hey Adam! Pro tip from your friendly neighbourhood print guy....When you load your paper the printer will usually ask what kind of paper you are loading. If you set the paper type to a heavier weight paper like a thicker photo paper or something similar, then the printer will either up the fuser temperature or feed the paper through slower. 👍
That "notcher" tool is also often referred to as a nibbler and is not just an electronics tool. They are frequently used in a variety of sheet metal work. I also like that particular style. I learned to used them about 30 years ago in A&P school and was delighted to find a set at a surplus auction a few years later. Still use them on a regular basis.
He actually does refer to it as a nibbler in the cutaway before he starts talking about it
Swap those screws holding the knobs for potentiometers. You’ll actually be able to turn the knobs.
I am four minutes into this video, and if it doesn't end with Adam 'activating' the EMP and knocking out the camera you've missed an opportunity.
With such love and infectious enthusiasm for what you do and achieve, “Retirement” is a meaningless word - it will never happen for you in the “true sense”. 👍👍👍😀😀😀
The little "3 counter" @42:40 is a "BCD Pushwheel Switch" available at a lot electronics suppliers in different sizes and button styles
I bet Adam’s friends and family get some REALLY cool gifts!
Confirmed.
Adam, I’ve recently been working with clear laser printer paper, water slide. I had the same issue. first i would heat up the printer and print one sheet on plain paper. then I would set it to high quality, and set the printer to “label” setting. that made every print then perfect 👍🏻 give it a try next time
Also after your print, before you cut it out. seal it in with a clear spray paint. locks those colors in perfectly.
Water slide is the truth. I'll never go back to label paper. I also use water slide decal set solution I used for my scale models. Dissolves the substrait and leaves the art. So dope. Clear over that, it's basically silkscreen.
I worked for a major printing and packaging company for 16 years, and now I run my own small printing company. I used and maintained 3 different 11x17 color laser printers. Xerox, Ricoh, and HP. The Ricoh was my favorite for cost and production printing a standard paper stock. The Xerox did well but it would cost over $25000 in toner a year. Now understand we would do about 190,000++ pages in a year. These machines are beasts though, they have a large footprint and usually way over 150lbs, however this can replace your current laser printer so it will not just be specialized to large prints. The Ricoh had the highest resolution a few years ago. Compare these Ricoh SP C840DN, HP CP5225n, and Xerox VersaLink C8000. There is also another option which may interest you. There are few (Xerox makes one) color lasers that also include white toner. These are primarily for used in transfer prints for clothes. This could be a good asset to give extra dimension to what you want to create especially on clear transfer or colored media. The Xerox C8000W has this option, however it almost doubles the cost.
The knob, to my eye, looks one one you would find on an ICS control head. The little "3" looks like a channel select switch. If I was forced to guess, the prop was made with old radio control head knobs and pieces.
Its amazing how many engineering went into "box with a switch" :D ... it looked so simple at start ... wow
yeah ... there is an amazing amount of complexity in such a deceptively simple prop.
(then again : why the heck would they need knobs on an EMP button? ... 'cause it looked more cool and interesting that way ?)
@@NotTheStinkyCheese probably some scifi semi-nonsense like "frequency modulation" :D
Adam, I work for a company that sells commercial copiers/printers. I am a certified HP technician as well. With that being said.... look at the HP Managed E876 series. It is offered in 40, 50 & 60 ppm configurations and is a color unit. You will not be disappointed.
I concur as another certified HD technician the E876 should do what you want and the reason when you look for "large format printer" your not getting laser printer is that is plotter/poster territory they use ink 11x17 is tabloid-style paper which is sold as A3/copier
he asked for a consumer grade printer.. any thoughts on that line?
@@sodapopjenkins you will not find a consumer grade printer that will handle large format. The consumer grade models are made for standard format.
@@jonz01 didnt catch the large format requirement... thanks for the reply
I'm a sign artist and we print on vinyl self adhesive substrates for outdoor use. We print the pump labels for Buc-ee's gas pumps.
The laser printer we use is called the Gerber Edge. They are pricey and very proprietary, but if you do volume work, they are worth those hassles.
Adam, Man! You Nailed Those Sentinels with the one! Knocked out of the Ballpark!! Amazing!
Can I just appreciate that the flashback to the first intro attempt was tinted green?
Glad someone noticed 😉
Just a thought, If the light is a "EMP fully charged" light then you should wire in the contact for the turning knob in series with the light.
So when you turn it the light goes off. since it is now discharged.
I'm glad I'm not the only person who watches the Matrix frequently.
It is as if I am watching a pre teenager who just discovered his own power and abillity to create whatever he desires... your excitement to work on something you realy want is fun to watch
No matter what Adam is building I always love the final product but I think I enjoy watching the thought process more.
For components like the red stripe stickers on the vacuform piece, consider the Cricut ( Pronounced CREE-CUT). It's basically like a CNC that does bladed cutting. It can cut out shapes like the pattern you want, then you can then transfer to it to the surface like a window decal using transfer paper. it can also be used to make stencils that you can paint the pattern through.
I think it's pronounced like "cricket"
@@MattBlank0 I reject your reality and substitute my own
"I know I have a reputation for extreme fidelity, which is funny because I'm willing to compromise, but in this instance I just couldn't compromise!"
Lol. Never change, Adam, never change.
Small knobs are probably guitar parts.
Big button with notches seems like a boat main battery power switch, the one that controls which battery bank is ON.
Adam, love the EMP box build, very cool. I was a little sad that you didn’t make it more functional. A light switch for the shop, or to turn on a tool or a power strip would be awesome
That transition at 25:25.... Might be one of the smoothest things I've seen video wise on TH-cam, bravo video editor, bravo!
🙏🏼
I love weathering, it's so satisfying.
After watching several of your videos, I've developed a new appreciation for the people in my life that stop me from doing this kind of thing.
This was so perfectly niche-but-not-elitist and an absolute delight. Thank you.
For decals like these I usually go for transparent water slide transfer paper, just print it with any laser printer or inkjet (need to use lacquer over top to prevent the ink from running in the water). Then just cut them out, dunk them in water and you apply then like the decals that come with any store bought model kit.
Thought the same thing! Old school plastic model building decals!
Also, I'm questioning why Adam didn't print everything in reverse and then adhere the stickers to the INSIDE if the dome. 🤔🤷🏻♂️
I like your point about being an explorer and getting jazzed about making something that no one's ever made before. I am very compelled to only make props that no one else seems to notice.
I was surprised you used a sticker for the counter instead of creating a wheel with numbers on it and a viewing port. Love the project though. So fun!!
To prevent clouding from glue on clear parts.. like model canopies, etc
soak the parts in "Pledge Revive it"
Makes the plastic look more like real glass, wont fog with glue vapor. I even used it on the resin water for a diorama I made. Try it!!
How long do you soak the parts before gluing? Do you use any other prep methods before using the clear materials?
@@ColonelSkills I dip it long enough to ensure coverage. So not long.. maybe a minute or so. Make sure it's clean.. no dust or fingerprints or that stuff will get sealed in. Let it dry for a few minutes and I dip a second time which may not be necessary but I do. Then let it sit for about 20 to 30 minutes as the bottle states.. then it's solid.. doesn't rub off or anything. Its like it becomes part of the plastic. Great stuff and makes it look more like glass than clear plastic.
@@jeffallen3598 awesome, thank you. I will give that a shot next time I am doing cockpits. Much obliged.
I know how it feels to want to get everything perfect, because your not working on just a prop replica, your working on a piece of art.
I am glad to see I am not the only one who thinks that the switch should definitely DO something. I'm a pragmatist I know. But the inner child wants something to happen when you flip the switch!
I love that Adam watches The Matrix often. It my favorite movie of all time! 😁
Adam, Love your builds, such an awesome project. The numbered switch looks alot like the older C&K Series 3 Thumbwheel switche. It looks like a single switch was used with side plates. hope this helps, Cheers Simon
I literally screamed when I saw the notification for this. YES!!! I've been hoping they would finally enter the pro market and what a way to do it!!
this choice of prop suits the format of this show very well, the small start to finish + detailing projects are satisfying to watch.
Looks awsome.. Would be cool if there was a small sound box that made the emp "swosh" when you turn the switch.. =)
id like to see it maybe vibrate too to simulate a burst or get crazy and have the knobs do things like volume, select sound on/off and switch modes. then add a speaker and put in sound effects and maybe funny sound clips from the movies.
A quick fix we found for ensuring the setting of toner for clear prints and transfer prints is to run the sheet through a laminator after printing; we just run the sheet through the laminator, set at 10 mil, with a sheet of paper covering it, and haven’t had any issues with label/transfer prints degrading. A lot of printers can be tweaked regarding setting temp and duration; we’ve had good luck with HP MFCs but still get some piece of mind with the laminator.
Hi Adam, just as you, I'm always short of a hand when dealing with the vacuum former, so I added a footswitch to power the fan. It works like a charm!
Focus: Psssst Adam! I learned from big clive that autofocus looks for contrast. That’s one of the reasons he keeps a black/white sticker on his table. Super useful to know!
Great project as always, but you had me laughing out loud how you used the “helper” for the vacuum forming. Mostly because stuff like that happens to me as well, great plans but chaotic execution.
Hi. Once when you were leading us through your cave years ago, I saw a NEBUCHADNEZAR sign. please tell us the story behind it. is it the original ?
Greetings from Germany
That little vacuform is really neat.
Special shout out to the 10.8v Makita drill in the background, absolutely love those for getting into tight spaces like helmets etc.
✌🏼 Love the One Day Builds!
When I'm printing stuff too thick for the printer I cover the fresh print with baking parchment and iron it. But it looked to me like you had toner sticking to the fuser roller which is a whole other thing.
The parts they leave out of the movie... "Hold on guys, we have to wait on Adam to make our button!"
😂
I've seen a switch knob similar to that one you were looking for at the end, on old 12v battery jumper boxes, albeit possibly a different size and color, also, a "small engine" oil dipstick has a similar knob style, depending on the manufacturer, don't limit yourself to only looking for switch knobs to find a similar knob, because there are uther applications, besides rotary switches, such as some car fuel caps, and a lot of oil dipsticks on small engines, as I mentioned earlier... Some may have a notch in the middle, and some may be 1 continuous piece on the top, but still, they can be very useful in any case, and I'm sure lots of people can learn this trick, even if you, yourself already know it
Tonight's News Headlines ... "San Fransisco experiences mysterious power outage"
"Whole numbers" like 1/2, 5/8, 3/8.
Obviously I know what he means, and as a hobby machinist and fabricator myself I totally get it, but it's funny to call 3/8 a whole number.
The perks of the imperial measurement system.
@@pauloalvesdesouza7911 You can use fractions with metric as well.
Former printer repair tech! If you only have a vertical line or two of toner that hasn't set, that sounds like a fuser (the giant resistor-roller that gets hot behind the paper) thats faulty, not necessarily that your printer itself can't handle it. Fusers are an expendable part, and can be replaced for way cheaper than a new printer! Something to consider. It could also be dirty, just have some gunk built up on the fuser at that spot that can be cleaned with some alcohol.
Glad to see that you didn't release the mysterious blue smoke...with that oops...when the positive and negative touched.
Are you ever tempted to add a real utility to a prop replica like that ?
Like link it to your electric garage door and use it to open it or something ?
I know it would complicate the build a lot but it would be so cool to have prop replicas actually doing something in your home !
Question for Adam: Have you ever built a replica and then been in contact with the original creator or creation? I would think that, of all the makers, Adam would have the most contacts for such a scenario. Love the Matrix. Love the build.
I was thinking the same, also if I was the prop master I'd send him the original if I had it, so he could compare
Yes he did Terry English and excalibur was one of them look it up on here he took his sword over and they put them side by side
there's a few props he's built where he's either iterated or built completely new versions of the prop once he had better/additional reference material. Luke's Lightsaber comes to mind, also believe there's multiple blasters in this category.
If you check out the video for the Inglorious Basterds knife build, the original prop-maker that built the knife for the movie is the top comment.
I said "bless you" to the sneeze...cracked me up you thought to say "thank you"!
You can always tell the difference between an experienced maker/engineer and a beginner or an artist (artsy artist). Those whole numbers, standardized parts and same sized fasteners, etc. I love my CRKT knives design by Carson, but after having to CAD one up for a class I was able to fully comprehend what the professors had been saying about design and manufacturing. There is a special place in hell for Carson and which ever poor bastards that had to figure out how to mass produce his designs should be lauded as a heroes.
after working in manufacturing for a while now my first thought is to always take a look and figure out how it was manufactured lol, you get an eye for clever manufacturing hacks after a while.
Great build, butI'm dissapointed that they didn't kill the video when Adam tested the switch.
The joy this man gets from just doing what he loves is such a joy to witness.❤❤
Just a thought, once the initial pull is done with the vacuum, might try using a heat gun to heat the plastic down in in the low corners to allow the vac to pull it a little tighter.
At 16:36 I watched Adam use a step drill bit. This is a great tool especially for drilling into thin sheet metal. During the drilling you see Adam check the size of the hole which is printed on the inside of bit. It's impossible to see the step size while drilling and you DON'T want to drill one step too big. So I use a black marker to mark the outside of the particular step I want. Voila, now it's very easy to see. My $0.02.
Wouldn't it have been a cool edit, if he didn't throw the switch till the end of the video and when he tried it for the first time, the video went dark as if the EMP really worked?
As an avid mythbusters fan as a kid and just discovering your channel you can’t even begin to understand the excitement I had! Lol my wife has been banished and we’re going on hour 6 of me watching! Lmao meanwhile my 3D printer is humming away in the background as my R2 units battery boxes are printing.
Adam, it always cracks me up when you have your mental gears turning you start little drum solos. Lol
12:20 the imperial measurement system in a nutshell...
"Everything is in WHOLE numbers"
*starts naming fractions*
Lmao, just use metric ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
That knob you had to make looks like one from a classic Coleman propane stove!!!
The last button at the end looks like it came from an old gas grill.
Hope that helps narrow down your search to all gas grill dials ever made.
1/8“, 3/8“ are supposed to be whole numbers? 😂
The metric system (SI) does not have to mess with that.
They are not whole numbers. And the 1/2" circle template he used to make a 1/2" radius actually gave him a 1/4" radius.
@@agentspooky77 Yes :) that's what I said: at 12:19 Adam is saying "...everything was in whole numbers. Half inch, 5/8s." That are fractions, not whole numbers. For me who grew up with the metric system, I can never get my head around the imperial system.
Nevertheless, I just love Adam's builds and his enthusiasm - they inspire me to try my own teeny, feeble builds!
i dont think the dials are 100% perfect because the markings in the picture dont reach across the full radius; maybe the manufacture changed the markings? its close and im super surprised you found some that are near identical, keep up the good work!
Also, they don't have the little dot at the center. Fail 👎
(JK 😁👍)
@@M_Northstar I thought the dots we part of it too, but its paint
@@MrTinyLlama I stand corrected. Good eye 👍
I love all of it. Watching you build gets me excited to build. However, I really was hoping that the nob would actually control the “3” number indicator. It wasn’t used in the movie, but parts on props that can do something and don’t make create an OCD itch. There is a small part of my brain still working out how to use gears to make the nob turn a complete numbers dial. But I’m not criticizing. Your work is always inspiring.
Love how the whole vacuum form thing went - looks like you coulda used a pasta salad pack! Well - at least an Australian one! But your way is so much more satisfying!
I love the Matrix, the new one is great too. I don't understand the hate towards it, it's similar to the first where it's more about the story rather than the special effects.
I agree. It wasn't perfect, but it was still a decent sequel. I enjoyed it and my first viewing was a lot of fun.
The main thing that annoys me is the lack of Morpheus (I know he canonically died but hey so did Neo and Trinity).
It's really amazing that Adam thinks the fractions 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" are "whole numbers." They aren't! They're fractions and it's a giant reason that using Imperial measurements are DUMB. Convert to metric people! Then he really would be talking in whole numbers. 12mm, 6mm, 3mm. Or the even more even and round numbers of 10mm, 5mm, and 2.5 mm because counting in tens is the natural way for humans to count.
Americans using Imperial is just stubbornness at this point. If the Nebuchadnezzar was built in Imperial the machines deserve to win.
We use the metric system pretty much exclusively at my job but then you get this one random tool or part that ONLY comes measured in inches. Throws you off bad!
I think a large percentage of Americans would be happy to change over, but the entire country is based on imperial units. Tools and materials are far, far more readily available in imperial units than metric. It's super easy to find a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel. It's not nearly as easy to find a 6mm piece. Until the supply chain commits to the change, consumers don't have a chance. In reality if you're any kind of decent maker, it doesn't matter if you're using imperial or metric. Just convert as needed. It's basic math.
It’s still frustrating to see someone slog through 0.49274727 inches trying to be “super precise”.
@@phantomsmithy because 12.51578066 mm is so much easier?