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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 เม.ย. 2016
- This is how to diagnose a problem with the outdoor section of a heat pump split system. In this case the contactor had an open coil and was not energizing the compressor or outdoor fan motor. This video shows you where to put the meter to test for line, load and control voltage at the contactor and board.
This is great stuff! Just took my EPA 608 just waiting to see my results
If low voltage is 23v, and supply is 208v, check tap on xfmr primary. Maybe wired for 240v. Volt drop across contactor contacts with current flowing should be in the millivolt range.
Excellent video. Just one safety tip. After pulling the lever on the disconnect, I would open and check to see that the disconnect was actually disconnected. I have seen lever type disconnects fail closed mechanically and I've seen disconnects bypassed. This doesn't happen very often, but it only takes one time to ruin you day.
Very well done video, good method and information
Than you so much for this important video. From Venezuela. 🇻🇪👏👏👏
Very nice video
another great one
Excellent job.
+attisso togbo thanks for the comment and for watching. Take care.
Could you please do a video on How to troubleshoot the transformer.
I have a 5ton Bryant HP (package unit) electric backup. Everything comes on but AC will not shut off it will be 60° in the house but keeps running. I put new t-stat on that didn't work. Yes it was a HP t-stat with electric auxiliary backup.
Great vid
+LosAngeles Grappler thanks for the comment and for watching.
I took his class in 2010. good times.
how do you bleed dual capacitor with your voltmeter? Please advise
What gloves are those? I need a pair. Google is failing me today...
Thank you for the video. I had this exact problem, whereby I had 24V across the contactor, and yet it didn't engage. I bought I new contactor and replaced it. For whatever reason now, I don't get 24V across the contactor when the thermostat is requesting heat from my heat pump. You BRIEFLY mentioned that the yellow wire goes through a series of pressure switches, which I'm guessing allows continuity through the circuit. Do you happen to have a video on that? I have 24V on my yellow wire coming into the the low voltage junction box, directly from the thermostat, but I don't receive it at the contactor. Without a response, I'm going to have to tear open this condenser to figure out where the continuity disconnect is. Thanks again for the great video and any help you can offer!
Are those electrical gloves?
I live in Florida and those ants in the contact is the number one reason I change contacts happens a lot and it ain’t cheap at 930 on Sunday night
I have a Trane 3 ton R22, piston unit, SH reads 21 on my SMAN360, low side = 71, high side = 289, VLT = 63, OD temp = 88, ID temp is 75, WB temp is 66. The SH leads one to believe it is low on refrigerant but the high side pressure is too high. Help. LOL BTW, the unit is working fine, blowing chilly air, but the numbers don't look right.
Contaminants in the system, bad txv, or dirty coils.
Where are the pressure switches located
+trukin forever inside the unit. Usually behind the electrical plate/panel or the panel right below it.
You will read zero volts across a closed set of contacts.
If the contacts are good you will get low voltage drop. Most contacts in the field will have less than a volt of drop across the closed contacts but it will never be zero. You then can use V=I/R to determine contact resistance.
Fire ants are evil little demons that will eat you alive. They have a nasty sting it is not as bad as a wasp. But when you have multiple bites it can be worse.
which you did more trouble shooting videos.
This information is going to get someone hurt trying to be a cheap skate leave it to the pros trust me.
You should teach your students not to needlessly install gauges unless they suspect a refrigerant problem. You had an electrical problem, so why hook up gauges?