Had a 4 bolt 350 40 over with a scar 383 kit run 8:6:1 roller cam 590lift h beam rods all the goodies topped with the weiand 177 3lbs of boost on dyno 550.5horse 535lbs torque. All in a 72 c10. Cylinder casting let get at around 2500rpm tree on the side of road stopped me. Less then 100miles on the build. Hope by spring we’re back together and bigger
I have a 177 on my 355ci.. in a nut shell its 10.5.1 30 over aluminum Holley heads 850 Holley on e85. 2.5 in top pulley 6in lower.. Truck is 3200 with me and 150 shot of Nos No tranny brake leave at dead idle and runs 9.70s!! Today I ordered the 7in lower pulley.. it should make 12.5 lbs of boost. And if I do spray it!! should be around 15 to 16 lbs of boost
Could you tell us about your experiences with this combo smaller pulley on the top and the larger pulley on the crank. Didn‘t you have heat problems etc?
I run the 8/71. On my rat moter. Big deal on pistons. And rods. Heads also. Pick the right combination . Stock is to risky. In the advertisement it says extensive modification needed. Wiend wasn't kidding. Yep. Carbs on a normal moter dont work correctly need to modify them also. Yep makes a small moter into a monster. LOL good video.
Awesome setup, I’d like to see some videos of it running and driving on the streets . I have a 355 with a 177, aluminum Trickflow heads and full roller top end. Just need to slap it into my 55 Chevy. Thanks for the explanation on the Weiand, have a good one👍🏼
@@Kregg63 No because it's simply not a lot of boost. Once you start creating 8 psi and you want high rpms then you start to have a problem. This here is 6 lbs on a 400 which has a larger crank, strong rods and the engine has forged pistons. Add to that I doubt this combo ever sees 5000 rpms because it's a 400 truck motor in a truck. Not really a race car.
summit racing 1104 or an 1106 is a nice cheap camshaft for boosted engines. You mostly just want a camshaft with a wider lobe separation like 114lsa too much overlap is no good for boost. You should always have a way to pull out timing as boost increases like 1 degree per psi of boost is generally acceptable. I mostly mess with turbo's but ive ran 15psi boost pressure on 93 pump gas through a bone stock honda 4 cylinder engine and it held up for years before i sold the car. Also have a friend with a mustang cobra with a whipple blower and on e85 fuel it makes 650hp at the tires on 24psi of boost. So don't be afraid to run higher boost pressure that's how power is made you just have to be conservative with your ignition timing and run the air/fuel ratio a but on the rich side in boost to help keep cylinders cool and it will live.
Your friend's Cobra isn't impressive. I've made 625 at the flywheel at only 4950 rpms and 10 psi through a Holley carburetor on a 342 stroker and D1 Procharger with California 91 Octane. God knows what it would make if I could spin it to 6500.
@@PhysifistEngineering not my cobra just a friends i help work on, only a 4.6 and that was on a mustang chassis dyno so obviously the numbers will by lower than measured at the flywheel on an engine dyno. Yeah you should make a lot of torque with 400 cubes and a little boost should make a nice tow rig
I'm not afraid to run more boost. You're just comparing apples to oranges. Old school roots blowers dont make boost like a new whipple or a turbo. Secondly, you're comparing new engineered smaller displacement engines with highly tuned fuel injection to an old 400 so yes you can run a newer engine to crazier limits due to its design. You can also do modern whipples with an intercooler as well as turbos. You cant do that with a Weiand blower. I would also need to spend thousands of dollars to push the boost level and this project was practically free. And that 342 was dynod in the car on a chassis dyno. If I had the fuel pump to run it it would have easily eclipsed 750 hp at 6000 rpms but that's far too much power on a roller 5.0 block.
Dude that was a very informative video awesome man I'm thinking about getting one I have a 350 small block Chevyeverything's forged the motor strong I'm already at 10 to 1 compression that's my only thing now from watching your video I find I can only probably safely run about 4 lb of boost. I wonder if it would be worth it.thanks buddy I'm sure there's other options I have to do some more research before the bang-for-the-buck you can't beat It.I want to see how your truck ran I was looking for other videos 😁but hey man great video thx
Find some thick MLS (Multi Layer Steel) head gaskets. That'll lower it .5:1. When I built mine I opted for 9.7:1 with a steel shim gasket (1 layer steel) so if I wanted I could lower it to 9.2:1. Also if I were going to put a blower on I'd open the ring gaps up to .030" Makes no difference to crankcase pressure or blow by, just a pain to do.
Thats the thing with the smaller blowers, have to turn them up to do anything then they beat the air up way to much, always better to turn bigger blower slower to get same results, dosnt heat air up as bad.
I can't stand it when people make comments like this. As if I should just go buy a bigger blower. This blower was free, fits under the hood and it's not dialed up. It has room to push about 4 more lbs, but that's not my goal. Adding 100 hp for free was the goal. And 6 lbs is hardly pushing it. Guess you didnt watch the whole video.
@@jocrp6 Because the video is about a 177 and how to add boost safely by following the guidance of the manufacturer and that's literally what the title of the video is. Just because I got it for free doesnt change anything troll.
Hey man! Really enjoyed the video. I would like to ask you a few questions. I am building up my 1966 c10 with my dad we have a 396 big block and we are going to run that exact set up you have the brawler 750cfm carb and the wield 177 series blower! How does it run for you? Do you think it’s a good street blower? How hard was it for you to get it running? Hopefully you see this. I’d love to see a video of you driving the c10.
Great questions. I highly recommend an A/F gauge for tuning and make sure you understand all the different circuits of the carburetor. The engine fires right up. The blower actually helps with that. Man, it's like instant torque when you get on it. Total tire shredder. Since you have the same cubic inches I'd guess it runs similar. I say this is a great blower for mild or stock builds, but at 400 ci I dont imagine it would support 6000 rpm with aluminum heads. But if your cam is reasonable and you have a solid, but not exotic head this blower makes for a great torque monster. Just make sure you run premium, your compression is below 9:1, and you keep your timing below 34*. If your compression is higher you'll need to lower the boost level to compensate but that's easy with all the pulley options.
How has your blower and engine held up since doing this? I’ve had ideas of slapping a 142 on my 350 but I drive the truck as a daily so I’m concerned with a similar setup being reliable
I actually just pulled the plugs and they look coffee and cream so the A/F looks good. I think it all depends on your boost level and the A/F mixture. If it doesn't go lean and you aren't pushing more boost than the pistons and rings can handle then you should be fine. I recommend an A/F gauge so you know what the engine is doing. If you don't have forged pistons keep it under 7-8 lbs of boost. Plenty of oem cars with superchargers so you should be fine. Run a cooler spark plug as well.
Very informative. Thanks. Do you have a link to the pages you were showing. I got a short nose small block blower that was used and would really appreciate a link to the info you were sharing.
Can't post links in here, but look for weiand supercharger installation instructions. The product page usually has a link to download instructions. Sometimes Summitracing will have them too.
@@PhysifistEngineering i am putting a 177 on a bbc and was able to re work a late model single belt set up to alow for ac , power steering, alt all 1/4 inch behind the blower belt .
saying your engine will get 30 more HP from more boost with the smaller pulley is one thing, and not knowing if your heads will handle that extra boost is something else
I dont think that's an issue when discussing boost at or under 8 lbs which I made pretty clear in the video. This is for street applications that are playing it safe by maximizing boost while remaining within the safe zone.
@@sideswiped6874 Sounds like you've had bad luck. I always use quality parts, follow instructions, research everything, and keep power within the engineering specs. Clearly if you're applying boost to unhealthy parts things can go wrong, and supercharging always has inherent risks so you're stating the obvious. That's why I made this video to help people maintain safe power levels. This isn't a race car, it's a street truck and if you're afraid of 6 psi and staying under 5k on a healthy engine then you're on the wrong video.
@@PhysifistEngineering, typical! go back and read my first posts again. and don't add between the lines! I was pointing out THE FACT that just because you say "2 more pounds of boost "will" produce 30 more HP" doesn't make it so just because you said it.
@@sideswiped6874 I actually said, "I'd say, add ABOUT 30 horsepower." That's called an estimation, and it's based on what I know about this engine and personal experience. Everybody's engine combos are different and that's why people should be following the instructions like I outlined. If people have questions about their heads they can search forums or look for other videos that document that. I know the viewers are smart enough to do that so I don't worry about it.
Yea I think the biggest thing is cubic inches and compression. Those dictate boost and the rest of the parts like heads and cams and exhaust dictate how efficiently you use that boost.
I had to remove a small section of the rear support on the hood, but I didn't have to touch the actual sheet metal at all. So it looks stock from the outside.
I believe I got it off Ebay or Amazon. If you search black swivel thermostat sbc you'll see lots of brands and types that all look the same. It uses an o-ring and you can buy it in different angles and of course the swivel is great too.
Be sure to check the outlet diameter as well. I even saw some that come with a threaded AN ending for screw on radiator hoses. So there are lots of options out there.
The comp is a little high, but if you stayed under 8 psi it could work. For the cam, it would be nice to know the LSA. Cam changes don't really do much for under 3500 rpms. For the street, it won't help much, but racing at higher rpms it would help. Would be curious to know about the heads too. I've seen these blowers support built 383s so they have potential.
I have the gauge tee-d off from the line going to the power valve so they each get their signal from the same manifold port. So you get a vacuum reading which is helpful for tuning, as well as the boost signal.
Keep the boost under 7 lbs, and make sure you don't run lean and I think you'll be fine. Just make sure your rings are sealing well and your cooling system is good. Probably switch to a cooler spark plug too.
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Weiand packaging used to say right on it, “Say Why-And”. That’s the only way I could remember how to pronounce the name.
One of the better videos I’ve watched on poly set ups thank you
Wow you really answered my questions on figuring out pulles and camshafts for a 177.
Had a 4 bolt 350 40 over with a scar 383 kit run 8:6:1 roller cam 590lift h beam rods all the goodies topped with the weiand 177 3lbs of boost on dyno 550.5horse 535lbs torque. All in a 72 c10. Cylinder casting let get at around 2500rpm tree on the side of road stopped me. Less then 100miles on the build. Hope by spring we’re back together and bigger
I have a 177 on my 355ci.. in a nut shell its 10.5.1 30 over aluminum Holley heads 850 Holley on e85. 2.5 in top pulley 6in lower.. Truck is 3200 with me and 150 shot of Nos
No tranny brake leave at dead idle and runs 9.70s!! Today I ordered the 7in lower pulley.. it should make 12.5 lbs of boost. And if I do spray it!! should be around 15 to 16 lbs of boost
Could you tell us about your experiences with this combo smaller pulley on the top and the larger pulley on the crank. Didn‘t you have heat problems etc?
Great education !!!! I learned so much. Thanks for sharing.
I have the old Weiland 256 pro street set up. It's a little closer to the 71 series. I will be doing a video on a build on this soon.
I'm doing a 396/402 with the 256 on my channel now.
Excellent video.
I run the 8/71. On my rat moter. Big deal on pistons. And rods. Heads also. Pick the right combination . Stock is to risky. In the advertisement it says extensive modification needed. Wiend wasn't kidding. Yep. Carbs on a normal moter dont work correctly need to modify them also. Yep makes a small moter into a monster. LOL good video.
Awesome setup, I’d like to see some videos of it running and driving on the streets . I have a 355 with a 177, aluminum Trickflow heads and full roller top end. Just need to slap it into my 55 Chevy. Thanks for the explanation on the Weiand, have a good one👍🏼
I'm adding boost and AF gauges and I switched over to the smaller pulley so I'll do a follow up video.
I just did that exact setup in my 55
Do you worry about too much horsepower or torque for the cast internals?
@@Kregg63 No because it's simply not a lot of boost. Once you start creating 8 psi and you want high rpms then you start to have a problem. This here is 6 lbs on a 400 which has a larger crank, strong rods and the engine has forged pistons. Add to that I doubt this combo ever sees 5000 rpms because it's a 400 truck motor in a truck. Not really a race car.
pop that puppy in and have fun,dont wait
summit racing 1104 or an 1106 is a nice cheap camshaft for boosted engines. You mostly just want a camshaft with a wider lobe separation like 114lsa too much overlap is no good for boost. You should always have a way to pull out timing as boost increases like 1 degree per psi of boost is generally acceptable. I mostly mess with turbo's but ive ran 15psi boost pressure on 93 pump gas through a bone stock honda 4 cylinder engine and it held up for years before i sold the car. Also have a friend with a mustang cobra with a whipple blower and on e85 fuel it makes 650hp at the tires on 24psi of boost. So don't be afraid to run higher boost pressure that's how power is made you just have to be conservative with your ignition timing and run the air/fuel ratio a but on the rich side in boost to help keep cylinders cool and it will live.
Your friend's Cobra isn't impressive. I've made 625 at the flywheel at only 4950 rpms and 10 psi through a Holley carburetor on a 342 stroker and D1 Procharger with California 91 Octane. God knows what it would make if I could spin it to 6500.
@@PhysifistEngineering not my cobra just a friends i help work on, only a 4.6 and that was on a mustang chassis dyno so obviously the numbers will by lower than measured at the flywheel on an engine dyno. Yeah you should make a lot of torque with 400 cubes and a little boost should make a nice tow rig
I'm not afraid to run more boost. You're just comparing apples to oranges. Old school roots blowers dont make boost like a new whipple or a turbo. Secondly, you're comparing new engineered smaller displacement engines with highly tuned fuel injection to an old 400 so yes you can run a newer engine to crazier limits due to its design. You can also do modern whipples with an intercooler as well as turbos. You cant do that with a Weiand blower. I would also need to spend thousands of dollars to push the boost level and this project was practically free. And that 342 was dynod in the car on a chassis dyno. If I had the fuel pump to run it it would have easily eclipsed 750 hp at 6000 rpms but that's far too much power on a roller 5.0 block.
What's he talking about, I run a locked dist at 30 deg on a 427 BBC with 16lbs out of 8/71 with 7:1 comp.
We need some update video.....PLEASE!
Dude that was a very informative video awesome man I'm thinking about getting one I have a 350 small block Chevyeverything's forged the motor strong I'm already at 10 to 1 compression that's my only thing now from watching your video I find I can only probably safely run about 4 lb of boost. I wonder if it would be worth it.thanks buddy I'm sure there's other options I have to do some more research before the bang-for-the-buck you can't beat It.I want to see how your truck ran I was looking for other videos 😁but hey man great video thx
Find some thick MLS (Multi Layer Steel) head gaskets. That'll lower it .5:1. When I built mine I opted for 9.7:1 with a steel shim gasket (1 layer steel) so if I wanted I could lower it to 9.2:1. Also if I were going to put a blower on I'd open the ring gaps up to .030" Makes no difference to crankcase pressure or blow by, just a pain to do.
@@ThePaulv12 damn man sounds like it..😁 that was even a pain to read 😁👍 thanks brother
Thats the thing with the smaller blowers, have to turn them up to do anything then they beat the air up way to much, always better to turn bigger blower slower to get same results, dosnt heat air up as bad.
I can't stand it when people make comments like this. As if I should just go buy a bigger blower. This blower was free, fits under the hood and it's not dialed up. It has room to push about 4 more lbs, but that's not my goal. Adding 100 hp for free was the goal. And 6 lbs is hardly pushing it. Guess you didnt watch the whole video.
@@PhysifistEngineering Then why make a false leading video, Should be, Got free blower, lets see what happens?
@@jocrp6 Because the video is about a 177 and how to add boost safely by following the guidance of the manufacturer and that's literally what the title of the video is. Just because I got it for free doesnt change anything troll.
You forgot that they have a pro street supercharger 144 series, which is going my 85 Monte Carlo SS with a 383
The only difference between the two is the coating on your rotors which wears over time. Did you choose the 140 series to fit under the hood?
Hey man! Really enjoyed the video. I would like to ask you a few questions. I am building up my 1966 c10 with my dad we have a 396 big block and we are going to run that exact set up you have the brawler 750cfm carb and the wield 177 series blower! How does it run for you? Do you think it’s a good street blower? How hard was it for you to get it running? Hopefully you see this. I’d love to see a video of you driving the c10.
Great questions. I highly recommend an A/F gauge for tuning and make sure you understand all the different circuits of the carburetor. The engine fires right up. The blower actually helps with that. Man, it's like instant torque when you get on it. Total tire shredder. Since you have the same cubic inches I'd guess it runs similar. I say this is a great blower for mild or stock builds, but at 400 ci I dont imagine it would support 6000 rpm with aluminum heads. But if your cam is reasonable and you have a solid, but not exotic head this blower makes for a great torque monster. Just make sure you run premium, your compression is below 9:1, and you keep your timing below 34*. If your compression is higher you'll need to lower the boost level to compensate but that's easy with all the pulley options.
Physifist Engineering thank you to much man! I can’t wait to get it started! And we have an upgraded cam. Thanks for answering my questions
How has your blower and engine held up since doing this? I’ve had ideas of slapping a 142 on my 350 but I drive the truck as a daily so I’m concerned with a similar setup being reliable
I actually just pulled the plugs and they look coffee and cream so the A/F looks good. I think it all depends on your boost level and the A/F mixture. If it doesn't go lean and you aren't pushing more boost than the pistons and rings can handle then you should be fine. I recommend an A/F gauge so you know what the engine is doing. If you don't have forged pistons keep it under 7-8 lbs of boost. Plenty of oem cars with superchargers so you should be fine. Run a cooler spark plug as well.
Did you ever put a blower on your setup? I recommend the 177 over the 142 if you do.
Do you need special ignition too or can you run a stock hei distributor
Very informative. Thanks. Do you have a link to the pages you were showing. I got a short nose small block blower that was used and would really appreciate a link to the info you were sharing.
Can't post links in here, but look for weiand supercharger installation instructions. The product page usually has a link to download instructions. Sometimes Summitracing will have them too.
Just checked, it's documentation dot holley dot com. First thing that popped up on Google.
Good information, have you had any belt slippage problems?
No, though I wish the setup would allow for AC.
@@PhysifistEngineering i am putting a 177 on a bbc and was able to re work a late model single belt set up to alow for ac , power steering, alt all 1/4 inch behind the blower belt .
@@adambatchelder4121 you should make a video. Share the knowledge!
saying your engine will get 30 more HP from more boost with the smaller pulley is one thing, and not knowing if your heads will handle that extra boost is something else
I dont think that's an issue when discussing boost at or under 8 lbs which I made pretty clear in the video. This is for street applications that are playing it safe by maximizing boost while remaining within the safe zone.
@@PhysifistEngineering you can think what you wish, but in my years I have learned that things are just not so, so
@@sideswiped6874 Sounds like you've had bad luck. I always use quality parts, follow instructions, research everything, and keep power within the engineering specs. Clearly if you're applying boost to unhealthy parts things can go wrong, and supercharging always has inherent risks so you're stating the obvious. That's why I made this video to help people maintain safe power levels. This isn't a race car, it's a street truck and if you're afraid of 6 psi and staying under 5k on a healthy engine then you're on the wrong video.
@@PhysifistEngineering, typical!
go back and read my first posts again. and don't add between the lines!
I was pointing out THE FACT that just because you say "2 more pounds of boost "will" produce 30 more HP" doesn't make it so just because you said it.
@@sideswiped6874 I actually said, "I'd say, add ABOUT 30 horsepower." That's called an estimation, and it's based on what I know about this engine and personal experience. Everybody's engine combos are different and that's why people should be following the instructions like I outlined. If people have questions about their heads they can search forums or look for other videos that document that. I know the viewers are smart enough to do that so I don't worry about it.
Thanks very informative. I have a 4.9 300 inline ford 6 cylinder that I am putting a 177 blower on. Would I follow the ford 302 recommended stats?
Yea I think the biggest thing is cubic inches and compression. Those dictate boost and the rest of the parts like heads and cams and exhaust dictate how efficiently you use that boost.
@@PhysifistEngineering thanks for your reply
I was told no more than 28 deg. timing and a 112-114 center line with more on the ex. side lift and dur.
It all depends on your setup and boost level. For example, you have to run more timing for aluminum heads, less timing for higher compression.
Does it have forged rods?
Stock cast crank, stock 400 rods, and forged pistons.
Where did you buy the blower from?
does the air filter fit under the hood or did you have to cut/modify the hood? im ready to do the same setup (327) in my 65 c10
th-cam.com/video/hQdOuUOUb5A/w-d-xo.html
Did the hood shut with the blower or did you have to cut a hole
I had to remove a small section of the rear support on the hood, but I didn't have to touch the actual sheet metal at all. So it looks stock from the outside.
What water neck thermostat housing is that .... appreciate it thank you
I believe I got it off Ebay or Amazon. If you search black swivel thermostat sbc you'll see lots of brands and types that all look the same. It uses an o-ring and you can buy it in different angles and of course the swivel is great too.
Be sure to check the outlet diameter as well. I even saw some that come with a threaded AN ending for screw on radiator hoses. So there are lots of options out there.
@@PhysifistEngineering thanks much
@@Kregg63 No problem. I'm trying to make this channel more educational than the TV shows. Any support helps.
What about 292h comp with a 501/501 lift in 244 duration forged pistons in max bore with a 9:5:1 compression would it be to much?
The comp is a little high, but if you stayed under 8 psi it could work. For the cam, it would be nice to know the LSA. Cam changes don't really do much for under 3500 rpms. For the street, it won't help much, but racing at higher rpms it would help. Would be curious to know about the heads too. I've seen these blowers support built 383s so they have potential.
What do u think about the ls what’s your opinion
@@hillsidesavage1413 I like it, cheap, compact, light weight, instant horsepower, supportive aftermarket for just about any swap.
Where does the boost gauge vacuum line go on the intake?
I have the gauge tee-d off from the line going to the power valve so they each get their signal from the same manifold port. So you get a vacuum reading which is helpful for tuning, as well as the boost signal.
@@PhysifistEngineering appreciate the knowledge
Could I run this blower on a pretty stock internal 350 ? Basically I have no idea what internals are in the motor.
Keep the boost under 7 lbs, and make sure you don't run lean and I think you'll be fine. Just make sure your rings are sealing well and your cooling system is good. Probably switch to a cooler spark plug too.
@@PhysifistEngineering thanks man!!
Hey man how would this work in my 1985 c10 with a 350 bore 30 over
It would be fine just install a cam as well
did you cut up the hood?
No, I notched the back support brace on the hood, but I didn't touch the sheet metal on the hood at all.
Why and
How are you gonna show me this and not let me hear it 😢
Hey man what headers are you running?
Sanderson block huggers, and then I added extensions making them midlengths essentially.
get your fricken finger out of the way
Guess you could just look at the instructions yourself.
Can't watch i am MOPAR!!!
Where does the vacuum line go on the intake?
For the boost referenced power valve, the signal should come from below the supercharger, usually a port somewhere on the intake.
Appreciate it