Seating A Tubeless Motorcycle Tire Using the BestRest BeadSetR
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2016
- This video shows you how to seat a tubeless motorcycle tire onto the rim. It explains the bead-seating process, describes methods of seating the bead, and shows you how to use the BestRest BeadSetR to spread the tire sidewalls so you can achieve an airtight seal and inflate the tire.
The BeadSetR is available from BestRest Products.
www.BestRestProducts.com 425.673.1023 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I owe you a load of credit! I spent HOURS trying to get the initial seal, including with a strap. I finally used what I learned from your video and used what I had on hand to improvise a friction reducing barrier between the tire and strap. It worked great. Thanks so much!
I appreciate the knowledge you have provided myself with solutions to repairing a tire that’s not only flat but has come off the wheel. This has happened to me recently and although I repaired the tire I lacked the knowledge to reset the bead. Most of us have a ratchet set but don’t have the nylon sleeve needed to set the bead. I would gladly purchase the sleeves at a reasonable price.
Thanks for your advice and expertise.
David offers simple, reliable, and innovative products for all aspects of motorcycling. The best ones by far are his own inventions, such as the one shown in this video. I've tried to use ratchet straps to set a bead, and never succeeded. Now I know why.
Only a brave (and smart) man is willing to demonstrate his own invention in a video. Bravo David!
Excellent explanation, detailed and the example tire really helps too. Thank you.
Terrific video David!
Thanks.
This video save me a lot for my motocycle tyre. Thanks buddy, great job.
I recently had a really difficult tire to set the bead on. I did use a ratchet strap and it worked. I did not realize that using a nylon sleeve would help with this process. Im going to purchase your beadset!
Great video and tutorial. Thank you!
thanks. nothing beats experience but experience.
late to this video. Great instruction. thanks !
I have one of these and its always with me when I'm out on one of my tubeless tire bikes. I've never had to use it and I hope that it stays that way, but if I need it, its there.
Thank you very much. Great video. Solve my problem. Great job Sir.
Thank you for reminding me about the lubrication. This tire was a pain in the butt.
Thanks it helps me alot
I use a ratchet strap to secure the centre stand and side stand to the front wheel. Just as a safety device when removing the rear wheel. But another great use. Thanks
A length of rope around the outside of the tyre.....knotted.....with a stick or metal bar to form a tourniquet.....twist till the tyre toucher the rim all around....then away you go.
If using an airline.....leave out the valve core to let a fast flow of air flow.
Once bears are set.....let air go and insert valve core....sorted.
Nick I'm aware of the rope/stick method. While it work in a pinch, the problem with that method is the tire tends to collapse directly under the knot. That's because the rope doesn't slide around the circumference of the tire, instead friction holds it in place. So when the stick is turned, only a few inches of rope nearest the stick slides, but the rest doesn't. The knot depresses the tire and you get an inconsistent spreading of the beads.
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The rope/stick method may work better on an automotive tire because of the width and stiffness of those tires, but for motorcycle tires they're so narrow that ANY non-concentric force will prevent the beads from making good contact all the way around the rim. Unless you achieve perfect bead/rim contact on both sides, you won't be able to start the inflation process.
I know what your saying......but its worked for me with care.@@bestrestproducts648
Thanks a lot for these videos, learned alot from it. Coverted my tube rim to tubless and put the tire on. I found out that my new installed tire leak cause it droped 2psi after 1 day. I keep trying (give it some pressure outside, and test psi). And Still not able to find where make it leak, cause no sounds and anything. Finally I realise that, every time I screw my house to the valve, it will make 1 to 2psi lost...... Seems I am not fast enough for that. lol
I've often found that a slow leak is caused by a bead that isn't properly seated, and that can be caused by a number of things. One time I had a large stalk of grass under the bead and that blade was just enough to allow air to leak. Other times I found the bead hadn't slipped fully into place because I neglected to properly lubricate the bead and the rim. One unlubricated spot will stick to the metal of the rim.
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If you still have a slow leak, of course the first thing is to check for a puncture somewhere. If that's not the problem, look to the edge of the tire and make sure the concentric ring on the rubber sidewall is perfectly in line with the rim, all the way around. That molded ring will tell you if the bead is sitting slightly off where it should be. You'd need to break the bead, relube, and re-seat the bead to fix that problem.
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Properly lubed beads will POP into place when tire pressure goes above 25 PSI. You should heat TWO loud pings when that happens (both sides ping).
Why don’t you just use a wider ratchet strap? Doesn’t it do the same job yet save you some tea out with the sleeves?
Width isn't the issue... no matter what width, a normal ratchet strap sticks to the rubber of the tire and that causes the ratchet assembly to deform the tire (which means the bead won't spread).
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The BeadSetR places the ratchet strap INSIDE a frictionless outer strap. This way the inner strap can constrict without sticking to the rubber, and that allows the tire sidewalls spread outward in a consistent fashion on both sides. They make full contact with the metal rim, without gaps for the air to escape.
I ve done it with a normal ratchet strap, the key like he mentioned in the video. Put something like hard plastic bag under the buckle. It will release some of the pressure in that point and let all the pressure more balance around every point where the strape contact with your tire. Glad to see the video.
@@dingdingluan928 you're partially correct about something semi-rigid under the ratchet assembly, BUT the real solution is get the strap to slide on the rubber of the tire. Rubber-to-strap friction around the tire prevents the strap from constricting uniformly, and what happens is the tire collapses under the ratchet. Only by putting the constricting strap INSIDE another strap will you get the best results.
Hi David, great video,. What are you using to lubricate the bead with?
Jo Garland i use a product called BeadGoop. Super slippery when wet, sticky when dry. Available at BestRest Products.
A regular ratchet strap won't work as well, or even work at all. The strap sticks to the rubber. As you tighten it the tire collapses under the ratchet. Tire bead doesn't spread evenly. Have you ever actually done it with a standard ratchet? If you have you know what I'm talking about.
Can you use engine oil as a lube if you are stuck out in the middle of nowhere ?
If you have no alternative, motor oil would serve as an emergency lube. But when you get home I'd demount the tire and clean it thoroughly. Oil will attack the rubber and it will also allow the tire to spin on the rim. The best lube is one that's specifically designed for tire mounting: slippery when wet, sticky when dry. BeadGoop from BestRest Products is the best lube I've ever used.
Will using shinny parcel tape twice around the tire be slippery enough for the trap
Nope. You gotta use lube.
This may be a stupid question... Why would I remove a tubeless tire from a rim on the trail? If a puncture is big enough that it can't be repaired with a tubeless repair kit, won't I need to put a tube in the tire to make it hold air, thereby converting it to a tubed tire? By the way, love your pump. It was most useful when I used it to air up tires after airing them down a little on my 250. Only took a few minutes to break the pump out and air up the tire and of course, no hassle.
Will Ashmore its a good question.
Installing a new tire is when you'll need to spread that bead.
Or if your puncture is too big for a string repair them you'll need to pull the tire to put a patch on the inside.
Or if your tire goes flat and you ride it a little too long before you discover the problem, the tire will often loose the seal with the rim.
If you carry a tube, install it. If you don't then you'll have to get the bead against the rim. The BeadSetR does that.
@@bestrestproducts648 Also, on the trail when you get a flat the tire can often come unseated (or was it unset? Now I have to watch the video again!) That happened to me yesterday in the middle of nowhere Chile and I luckily had someone come by and take the tire and rim into town. I came here looking for what I should have done, found out I should have bought this strap thing before I left the US!
Thanks! Is it safe to over inflate the good tyres? And by how much should I aim for over manufacturers spec to keep it safe?
Yes you can over- inflate to seat the beads. If you lubed the beads properly they should pop into place at 25-30 psi. some ties are stubborn and it takes 40-50 psi. Once the beads pop, deflate the tire to the recommended specs.
BestRest Products
I meant when you use the donor method, if my donor tyre spec Is 35psi Is it safe to raise it 55 to blast the other?
yes absolutely
BestRest Products
thank you very much, I don't really have funds or space for a compressor right now so your vid was most helpful of all tyre changing guides I've seen.
@@DimitriBoyarski - Get one of those cheap 12V air compressors. Small, cheap and nimble enough to be easily purchased, used and stored. Well and it beats hand of foot pumps anyway. ;-)
Before I got a "normal" workshop air compressor. I did literally dozens of tires with them. Cars, bikes, motor bikes, cargo carts, wheel barrow, you name it.
Right now I just have 3 cars in house, used to be 4. All with 2 sets of tires (Summer and Winter) that alone is a lot of tires. LOL :-)
Develop your techniques regarding assembling and disassembling tires and you´ll see that most of these commercial "gadgets" are just that gadgets that are neither mission critical or needed.
Tips:
1 - Always use 3 tires irons/spoons. 2 to fix position, 1 to walk the tire.
2 - Air fixing spray as lubricant. Dirty cheap, very effective, totally innocuous to metal or rubber and clean up nicely with water/rain, makes for a very nice seal when dry. Brand and smell varieties are totally optional. LOL :-)
3 - ALWAYS keep the opposite side of the bead your working on, deep into the valley of the wheel.
Cheers
Fractions? Really? And in metric?
I did all of that and it still won't seat about 8 inches on both sides and there is no air leaks and I put it to 60 psi when it is rated at 42 psi. I let it set. I would never bounce it because if it seats it could kill you. I have hit is with a rubber mallet and still nothing. I use windex to lubricate the tie when I was puttin it on and to seal the tire. Never in m life have I had this problem. Once the start rising the pop and that is that thanks. 🙂
The problem you're having is due to the friction between the metal rim and the rubber tire beads. While you think you've properly lubed your beads, the evidence points elsewhere. When beads stick that's because they're not lubed. You need to get that lube everywhere on the bead (including the curl of the rubber bead), and the metal rim shoulder.
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Using Windex as a tire mounting lube is akin to using "all season" tires on snowy roads. They might work to get you over snow and ice, but they might not. You'd be better with winter rated tires that have proper tread and studs. Likewise with using Windex as a tire mounting lube - it might work but it's no substitute for a real tire mounting lube. You can find it at auto parts stores or you can order BeadGoop from BestRest. I've heard of guys using everything from dish soap to KY Jelly, to motor oil, to a can of beer. I cringed when I heard about the beer - that should be used to lubricate the rider, not the beads.
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As for the tire "killing you" when you bounce it... never heard of that happening. You might've been watching TH-cam videos of guys working on truck or tractor tires with huge volumes and high pressures and split rims. At 60 PSI your motorcycle tire nip off the end of a finger it you were silly enough to put it in the crack between tire and rim, but as for killing you the only way that could happen is if the bead popped into place with a loud PING, and you were surprised, and started back-peddling, screaming like a high school girl, and you finally fell into the hot tub in the corner of the ship. As you fell you grabbed an electric heater to catch your balance and you pulled it into the spa, where you were electrocuted. At least you heard that bead pop into place in your last moments on this planet.
@@bestrestproducts648 Your totally hilarious. Thanks so much. I had some belt spray dressing in a can for the engine and sprayed the openings with that and @ 65 psi I had 2 separate loud pops. The rear tire today I struggled with for about 10 minutes with a ratchet strap tighten and then loosen a few times to close the tire up to the bead. This tire was not stored or shipped with the usual cardboard inserts to keep it expanded. I just kept spraying windex as I have heard others use that in the past and works pretty good. I would never consider any lubricant oil. The rear took forever to reach 40 psi even after the 2 pops.Thanks for the very long but very funny scenario. But you left out the part where I cried for my Mommy. I don't have a hot tub in south Florida. Only a small lake about 30 ft. from where my bike is parked. Only alligators. No electricity needed. Thanks for the education and laughs. Beer is for dumping down the toilet. yuck. 😁
What a sissie!! Scared to use ether to sewt beads.
Wouldn't the lubricant affect the tyre ?
Cause they says oil is no good for tyres
The lube used in this video (BeadGoop) is specially designed for tire mounting. It doesn't harm the rubber. Other lubes like WD-40 can cause harm to the tire.
@@bestrestproducts648 most bead lubes are basically a water based lube so id does not harm the rubber.
What did you use for a lub
I use a product called "BeadGoop". Available at BestRestProducts (dot) com
Jibber jabber for 5 mins
To you, it may be jibber jabber. To 99% of the other viewers it's valuable info that helps them understand the process.
This video needs to be edited down to the 5 min video it actually is.
Jerry you can always use the fast forward button. it was a 5 minute video a lot of subtle hints and tips would be missed.
WD40
While WD40 seem like a good idea, consider what it really is: a lubricant and a penetrating agent consisting of petroleum agents. It makes rubber very slippery and that does help get the tire over the rim... BUT... WD40 also attacks the rubber tire over time. Do a simple test - spray the tread of the tire with WD40, let it sit for an hour then wipe the tire with a rag. The rag will come away black because the WD40 has started to dissolve the tire. That's not what you want between the bead and rim.
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On top of that, WD40 continues to be slippery long after the tire is mounted. That can cause the tire to slip on the rim under acceleration and braking. If you're running tubes that slippage can actually tear the valve stem from the tube body. If you're running tubeless tires that slippage and lubrication can lead to a failure of the seal between the tire bad and the rim.
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You're much better off to use a lube that's specifically designed for tire mounting. A lube that's slippery when wet, but when it dries it becomes tacky. That tackiness will bond the tire to the rim and prevent the tire from rotating. Think of the dried lube as a glue that causes the tire to stick to the rim where it belongs.
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Go into any tire shop in the world. None of them are using WD40 to mount tires. Instead they use legitimate tire mounting lube. They must have a reason for doing that.
@@bestrestproducts648 thank you for the info.