Nice work on a very challenging aspect of any Phantom build. At the risk of sounding pedantic, the front face of the engine is the compressor section and the turbines (which drive the compressors) are at the rear.
Even though you had some struggles in this area, this design and the fit is so much more refined compared to other model companies' approaches. Again, big shout out to the Tamiya design team!
While rummaging through Danny Coremans excellent F-4 book I found pictures on page 152: Believe it or not, Tamiya was right about the XF-2 on the compressor faces! 😱 The 8 prominent struts/guides and ring just in front of the first compressor stage have white paint on them. The bullet is aluminum and the blades have a titanium hue to them. Not wrong, but kinda wonky pointed out in the instructions…..and doubtful if ever seen in those deep intake trunks. 😄 Either way, I just wanted you to know. 😉
@@m1a1hm Yep its Academy one. here in NZ its about 1/2 the price of the Tamiya one. Of course I haven't followed the instruction build sequence so I'm sure it will bite me in the rear end,
@@kiwiruna9077 Yeah i hear you for the money the Academy kit is pretty good. The Tamiya is a little prices for me but it is a great kit. And yeah i did the same thing when it came to the instruction sequence. The rear landing gear is a little tricky but not to bad. Academy should have done a better job on them.
Your SMS light gull grey is dead on color wise. The tan color in it is overlooked by most modelers. Looking into the intakes they had a yellow to light brown "burn" from all the high speed air going through them. Almost like an age white burnt by being out in the sun too long. Great work so far. I have this one in my stash and watch your builds to give me heads up on what to look out for. Thanks for the videos.
Hey great video. My wife usually doesn’t watch this stuff. She started to watch with me. Both had a laugh. She loved your delivery. A laugh and some learning. Who could ask for more. Many thanks!
I know this is a corny question but can you please do a small video on how to mix Tamia paints for any other car for that matter. I’m having a really hard time getting my paint thinner ratio to where it will flow easily out of my airbrush. Thank you
I have just finished this model and although it is the best phantom kit out there I had some areas that were problematic. The bottom fuselage panel from the nose gear bay to the wings was either warp or something was obstructing it from sitting true. Some gap filling was required. Next the exhaust nozzles, the individual panels can't have any leftover sprue tabs and just don't seem to fit well. I had an hell of a time lining them up. But lastly, the main canopy will not sit properly and has wide gaps and I cracked the fucking thing installing it. Yes the very last step of the build ugh. I think if you close the canopy all the interior canopy pieces must be omitted. Otherwise than these three things the kit was great.
When I watch your vids Matt, it blows me away. Your use of color layers to get the desired effect your after makes me shake my head. How did you learn your use of color techneques?
5:23 To be fair to tamiya some of the J79-GE-8 engines have the variable intake guide veins painted white but most had them in raw aluminium, The actual compressor turbines are pretty hard to see when the guide veins are at a high angle of attack like when the engines are at idle or shut off.
Awesome work mate. You have probably already covered this but what thinners, thinning ratio, needle size and air pressures do you use. If you can't be stuffed regurgitating material already covered, just point me in the right direction.
Well...it depends. On the paint, time of year, temperature, humidity, what I'm trying to do, etc. But...generally: Thinner - Gunze Mr Leveling Thinner. I will VERY occasionally use something else, but that only happens like once a build, if that. Thinning Ratio - Very heavily paint dependent. With MRP, maybe a few drops if any. With Gunze and Tamiya, my starting ratio is 2:1 thinner to paint. Needle size - Depends. The PS-771 is .18. My PS-290 is 0.5. Air Pressure - Also depends. But I'm almost always somewhere between 10-20 psi.
I can't seem to find anywhere on my instructions that it says to remove the ECM bumps. I look at the instructions and notice they aren't depicted on the sketch, but no mention to remove anything. What am I missing?
Step 21, right below the 21. It's small, there's no words calling it out, and it's very easy to overlook (as I did, and as a ton of other people have).
I really love your work and knowledge. I’d even love it more if my two young sons could watch with me. Lol Is there a chance a less profanity? Just asking. Tan man
I've found MRP Light Arctic Grey to be such a useful color. Thanks for introducing me to it!
Best swearing episode for ages 😁👍
Oh, yes. I had a good laugh. 😁
Excellent! I decided to build my Academy F4B in my stash first then do this one later... Helps me to appreciate Mr Ts kit🤗
Great update Matt ! Hope you have a great/safe weekend !
Amazing kit and modeling skills!
Nice work on a very challenging aspect of any Phantom build. At the risk of sounding pedantic, the front face of the engine is the compressor section and the turbines (which drive the compressors) are at the rear.
Great stuff Matt. Very helpful. Thank you
I'm having a fucking blast watching your vids.
Looking really good Matt.
Even though you had some struggles in this area, this design and the fit is so much more refined compared to other model companies' approaches. Again, big shout out to the Tamiya design team!
While rummaging through Danny Coremans excellent F-4 book I found pictures on page 152: Believe it or not, Tamiya was right about the XF-2 on the compressor faces! 😱 The 8 prominent struts/guides and ring just in front of the first compressor stage have white paint on them. The bullet is aluminum and the blades have a titanium hue to them. Not wrong, but kinda wonky pointed out in the instructions…..and doubtful if ever seen in those deep intake trunks. 😄 Either way, I just wanted you to know. 😉
With the casual swearing i have just found my new favourite modelling channel. Keep up the sterling fucking work old chap
Thanks for another cool video!
Intakes. With extra little sh*ts and f*cks. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Great job, Matt.
Fantastic! Thank you!
As usual a amazing job 👏👏👏 Plus a word in French « et voilà »
Fantastic, Merci beaucoup
Dude- the front of the engine is called the compressor; the turbine is in back. Great videos!
Man looking GOOD!!! I'm in the middle on working on a Academy 1/48 F4 J . I'm looking forward to the next video.
Hey, me too- A most enjoyable build so far, I'm just about to start work on the landing gear.
@@kiwiruna9077 Cool!! Are you working on the Academy kit if so the landing gear do take a little work.
@@m1a1hm Yep its Academy one. here in NZ its about 1/2 the price of the Tamiya one. Of course I haven't followed the instruction build sequence so I'm sure it will bite me in the rear end,
@@kiwiruna9077 Yeah i hear you for the money the Academy kit is pretty good. The Tamiya is a little prices for me but it is a great kit. And yeah i did the same thing when it came to the instruction sequence. The rear landing gear is a little tricky but not to bad. Academy should have done a better job on them.
Your SMS light gull grey is dead on color wise. The tan color in it is overlooked by most modelers.
Looking into the intakes they had a yellow to light brown "burn" from all the high speed air going through them.
Almost like an age white burnt by being out in the sun too long.
Great work so far. I have this one in my stash and watch your builds to give me heads up on what to look out for.
Thanks for the videos.
Hey great video. My wife usually doesn’t watch this stuff. She started to watch with me. Both had a laugh. She loved your delivery. A laugh and some learning. Who could ask for more. Many thanks!
I know this is a corny question but can you please do a small video on how to mix Tamia paints for any other car for that matter. I’m having a really hard time getting my paint thinner ratio to where it will flow easily out of my airbrush. Thank you
Master Job 😲😲😲😲👊👊👊
I love your videos and
Sorry I messed up, love your videos and enjoy learning from you. Thank you for your time and effort.
What're your thoughts on the SMS paints Matt? Don't think I've seen you use them before.
I have just finished this model and although it is the best phantom kit out there I had some areas that were problematic. The bottom fuselage panel from the nose gear bay to the wings was either warp or something was obstructing it from sitting true. Some gap filling was required. Next the exhaust nozzles, the individual panels can't have any leftover sprue tabs and just don't seem to fit well. I had an hell of a time lining them up. But lastly, the main canopy will not sit properly and has wide gaps and I cracked the fucking thing installing it. Yes the very last step of the build ugh. I think if you close the canopy all the interior canopy pieces must be omitted. Otherwise than these three things the kit was great.
When I watch your vids Matt, it blows me away. Your use of color layers to get the desired effect your after makes me shake my head. How did you learn your use of color techneques?
Photoshop mainly. Learning to "see" layers and opacity is a big part of it.
You mentioned modge podge for gluing in the sensor inside each intake. Do you use that glue for canopies too?
Very much depends on the canopy
5:23 To be fair to tamiya some of the J79-GE-8 engines have the variable intake guide veins painted white but most had them in raw aluminium, The actual compressor turbines are pretty hard to see when the guide veins are at a high angle of attack like when the engines are at idle or shut off.
Awesome work mate.
You have probably already covered this but what thinners, thinning ratio, needle size and air pressures do you use.
If you can't be stuffed regurgitating material already covered, just point me in the right direction.
Well...it depends. On the paint, time of year, temperature, humidity, what I'm trying to do, etc.
But...generally:
Thinner - Gunze Mr Leveling Thinner. I will VERY occasionally use something else, but that only happens like once a build, if that.
Thinning Ratio - Very heavily paint dependent. With MRP, maybe a few drops if any. With Gunze and Tamiya, my starting ratio is 2:1 thinner to paint.
Needle size - Depends. The PS-771 is .18. My PS-290 is 0.5.
Air Pressure - Also depends. But I'm almost always somewhere between 10-20 psi.
Thanks heaps for a succinct answer to a "how long is a piece of string" question.
Appreciate your comments.
I can't seem to find anywhere on my instructions that it says to remove the ECM bumps. I look at the instructions and notice they aren't depicted on the sketch, but no mention to remove anything. What am I missing?
Step 21, right below the 21. It's small, there's no words calling it out, and it's very easy to overlook (as I did, and as a ton of other people have).
Doooohhhhhhh!
Bro, my mom heard your curse. She might send an angry email.
Also, who’s the low life dick head that gave this video a thumbs down?
Hey Matt, what is the liquid that you are using with the magic scuplt?
Water
@@DoogsModels Wow, I think I better look around for some, loving the build by the way.
I really love your work and knowledge.
I’d even love it more if my two young sons could watch with me. Lol
Is there a chance a less profanity?
Just asking. Tan man
Tamiya paints or any other paints for that matter. Lol
I’m talking to my phone here.
I’m always fascinated in knowing who are the 4 or 5 people who down thumb your videos, and why? Who are these people? 🤷🏻♂️