Kaiweets HT 118 Multimeter Review and Tear Down
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2019
- Kaiweets HT 118 Multimeter Review and Tear Down
Kaiweets Ht-118: amzn.to/2zzbuCJ
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HEY YOU ABOUT TO POST SOMETHING STUPID:
Yes, I know my hands are large/fat. It's because of a heart condition I suffer from called Congestive Heart Failure. Here's a link to some information about CHF: cle.clinic/2TdS2Ux
One of the symptoms is that is causes fluid retention, mostly in the hands, feet/ankles, and face.
It will kill me one day. I'm doing ok right now, but someday...
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Light Meter Smart Sensor AS803 amzn.to/2B2gyRg - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
This was better than the included owner's manual to show me around my new multimeter...very helpful. Thanks for doing this!
Oh my God, this channel is Multimeter heaven. I wish I would have them coming like this to me, but it's still so enjoyable watching this videos. Keep them coming with your excellent reviews!
Thank you very much. I bought one, got it delivered just before this whole pandemic/lockdown/covid-19 issues stuff.
I need it for common around the house/car repairs plus really getting into electronics and I particularly love tools. Good quality tools and maybe some low quality ones that somehow outlived my expectations.
It's always good to see people that have way more experience than I do making a review. Gotta say this review gave me peace of mind as I was truly tired of all those cheap crapy DMMs that are around these days. Is one thing to look quality like and a different one to be quality. Thanks for showing so.
Thanks for this test and review! I just purchased this multimeter to help diagnose and repair my HVAC system. It looked like a good bargain meter. As I’m not in the industry, and do not need professional quality, such as Fluke. Thanks for confirming!
I saw the drop down to this video, and as a man with a respiratory condition that will kill me one day, it saddened me. No one should ever feel they have to explain their health condition to anyone, especially rude strangers who think they are clever with their keyboard. Your videos are free to everyone to view as many times as they like, when did they last do something to help others? Take care.
Thank you
I just bought one of these last week from your store and I really like it! So far it is dead on everything I tested it with. I am a hobbyist/mechanic and have used meters for years. My old VC99+ is having a issue with the continuity testing is why I bought this HT 118.
I used it to fix the VC99+ and found that the Pos socket had a cold solder joint and cracked which explains some of the issues... Lol
Regardless I got a new meter and so far so good. Yes I have others just wanted a new one... :-D
Thanks for the video!
LLAP
Nice review Paul!!
That's a nice unit. I needed a replacement a couple months ago and compromised on one that doesn't have half the features as yours at twice the price.
Thanks for the review. Bought one on the back of watching this...
Nice vid Paul. I agree, this meter has some nice features for beginners and pros alike. Oh, worth mentioning, the box containing the extra probes and clips is a separate kit sold at an additional cost.
Thanks
Good video. I've been looking at this one on Amazon. This made up my mind to go ahead and buy it. Thanks.
Just starting out with Arduino and just picked up this meter. I haven't used it yet but I like these reviews. I appreciate it!
Thanks for the review. Over a thousand dollars in tools were stolen, this is the budget one I picked as a replacement for a few months.
Looks like a nice hobby meter to me. I like the extra digit At 5 volts and under, that could be handy for extra low power stuff. I also am intrigued by the capacitance range it claims. Great video Paul.
Nice review. Looks like a decent meter for the price. Nice for the bench, I wouldn't measure more than 120 V with most of these cheaper meters. I like the lights on the input jacks.
Nice meter! Thanks for the vid. I like the price.
I know I'm late to the show but I just got one of these on Amazon Prime Day! Really like it. Needed to read 5 to 10M ohm and none of my other meters would go that high.
What test leads do you use? (Not the ones that come with this multimeter). You said they were probemaster, I see some on Amazon but they have different series. Thanks and great video.
Glad you shorted the 15,000 microfarad, I forgot to do that and blew out the PIC chip on my component tester. Lucky, the manufacturer sent me another chip.
Thanks for the video Paul, look forward to the next one.
Can I ask what's the reason to do that? Why does it blow a chip if we don't short the capacitor first?
I'm just a diyer and recently can't read the digital display on my even cheaper meter. So I bought this one off of Amazon. Glad I didn't waste my money! Lol. Thanks
Pretty nice meter, dude! Really nice! 😃
Internal view begins 21:10 Those Kaiweets silicone test leads (bought separately) are pretty good. Not Probemaster or Pomona or Fluke quality, but good for the money. It would be nice to see a review and teardown of the Kaiweets/Habotest HT206D AC/DC amp clamp too, especially with functional tests of its LowZ and Low Pass Filter features.
I have one of these and it is pretty amazing accurate for cheap meter. I have a old Fluke 73 it reads the same as the HT118. For a RMS meter is a very good bargain. 73
NIce review, thanks.
This one (another brand, same device) was just on sale at "the big A" for like 20€.
Boght it as backup, as it really looks pretty solid for that low price.
Looks like the Owon OW18b as far as it's exterior design is concerned. I wish you'd do a quick temp test, if only to show that it works, whether it has an onboard thermocouple and if it displays C and F at the same time. Would probably take 10 seconds at best. Cheers!
Any test of the Frequency / Duty measurement? The manual says this is limited to 10V. Also, you can use the red probe for the NCV Live test to quickly identify "hot" wires. This appears to be easier and quicker than fiddling with two probes. You can hold the meter in one hand while probing wit the other.
That's a nice meter for $30! It even indicates which position of the probes supposed to be connected. Except for the micro meter measurement, it's a little off when measuring below 100 micro amps.
Thank you for video! Very helpful. Do have a question. do you sell or know how to purchase both the voltage standard tester you used at the beginning of the video and the current tester used at about mark 17min 21secs?
Great informative video. I've been considering this meter for it's a 'capacitance' and 'min/max' functions. The 'min/max' function is nice for checking a vehicles battery's voltage condition under load and while static by saving and recalling the measurements. I'll be looking into the 'PROMASTER' leads also, if there quality as you stated I imagine there made in the U.S.A. The half-ass leads I'm accustom to are getting annoying. The added circuitry protection with this meter is a huge plus and I agree this meter is toyish looking but at least it's only superficial. Loved the comment about the 'skin' also!
Hi there Paul , hope you doing o.k .
You're exactly what TH-camrs need , brief , proffecional , and experienced enough to deliver the info/s . You see , I am a huge fan of modern techs , aI discovered that lately when my car stereo broke down , but I needed guidance and a little details how to improve my skills of elec. And I found you ,,
Thank you man , best of a great good wishes for you ,,
All the best ...
I.e ,, please go further in ; how to use a multimeter in respective way , me one them ..,😁
Thanks again ...
just bought one, thanks amazon!
Hi Paul, I have the Habotest version of this meter with a red condom (same model number). It seems to be an excellent meter and for my hobby purposes it's verging almost on overkill. I love the chunkiness of it and the excellent dual display. It has been extremely reliable this past six months or so and time will tell how long it lasts but for $30 or so you can't go wrong. On a technical note you need to move your lights waaay back. Like 4 feet or more back. You are illuminating the sides of stage at a 45 degree angle which is why you have this huge dark spot and the meter is almost a black hole in the screen. Your autoexposure is screwed up and if you turn it off and adjust for the meter the sides of the image would be blown out.
BTW: when the meter senses dangerous voltages the screen goes orange/red. That's that backlight you saw. Also all you had to do to test the temperature is select it. It will measure ambient temp in both C and F in the meter itself.
I also have the Habotest HT118A version of this meter also in red color, and I noticed the Habotest has everything this one does but the beep on the forward voltage diode test, sure with they had included that function on the Habotest HT118A.
Merci
Well done !
Missed this video too.. being spending alot of time with my uncle next door. He was in a car accident back in 84 and it left him in a wheelchair, he lives on his own. But iv never once in all that time hear him complain about his situation. And it really pisses me off that none of his family except me and my dad call into him for some company and a chin-wag (talking shight basically)
But iv being missing out my "electro-vloggers" videos. So iv some catching up to do😉
I have two of these. No problems. Hoping I can find a way to override or turn off the auto off.
It’s a great multimeter, my only complaint is the backlight doesn’t stay on, it’s on a 10 second timer. Honestly for $30 I shouldn’t be complaining at all, what’s most important is accuracy, it delivers.
muy buen video , gracias por la informacion , saludos de uruguay pulgar arriba...thumbs up
I lost my paperwork for mine so was hoping to find out how to measure various frequencies with this meter?
Mine crapped out yesterday. Repaired a mosquito zapper and decided to check the output voltage... Zap! Lights out.
Lighted jacks would be cool to have. Not too bad a meter for the price. How many meters now? I know, not enough. 😁 Thanks for the video!
Nice meter! A lot of bang for the buck! The R005 shunt resistor is a 5 milli ohm resistor and at 10 amps it is only dissipating 50 milli Watts;)
500 mW. 10A multiplied by 0.050v but the fuse is also dissipating a large amount of power. Lots of heat trapped under the plastic shell. Ideally these should only be used for quick checks. A model that concerns me is the an870 and similar. They use an R01 shunt which is 10milliohm at 20 amps. 4watts from a tiny wire. That could melt the surrounding plastic. Fun idea for a future video?
Still been using the freebie multimeter from Harbor Fright; Cen-tech 7-Function Digital Multimeter. Maybe review that?
On these budget meters I wish they would just install a re-settable poly fuse on the millivolt range like some have started doing - no taking apart the meter every single time it blows a fuse or looking for oddball fuses. Some dont care for the poly fuses understandably but I think for these low priced ones it kinda makes sense.
Polyfuse would be nice, specially on this model with its idiotically stiff vinyl sheath that must be removed before the case can be unscrewed.
Just bought one of these from your Amazon store. Happy purchase so far. They seem to have made the voltage measurement default to DC instead of AC on power up now, which I like. I really like the lead holders on the back of it.
You should check the Vrms bandwidth :)
Is this diode mode for this multimeter normal give short beep in case of shorted and good diode??
1 year later is the multimeter still performing well? Still recomendable?
Thanks
I have the "Habotest" version of this meter with the red condom, it came to me with three stripped pcb screws because the screws used were too short, barely made it through the pcb. but some longer screws fixed that and its been fine - but im a little miffed mine is identical in every function to this one except this version has the beep on the diode test and mine doesnt - id loved to have had that on mine-!! Ugh!!
Hi. Thx for the video. Is there any difference between this and habotest ht118a?
Been looking at buying one of these for a while here in the UK.
I think these are rebranded "prospect" meters i think. I havent heard a bad revue yet on them. Thanks for sharing
They are rebranded Habotest HT118A.
Nice accuracy but I am immediately put off by the chunky digits, I prefere the skinny digits of the Owon.
Is this the best dmm under $50?
Duty cycle doesn't read over 10 volts and I can't get the thermometer to be consistent. But I really like using AA batteries over 9 volt. As a multi meter not bad for $35.
You know you watch too much DankPods when you get excited about the batteries at 0:42... "my pkcell!".
Ohh my another meter ..:D. about uA it is going to be accurate as current source which is mA + leads + meter. Not bad for its price indeed.
I sat here watching this video waiting for you to take it apart and you skipped the whole process. I need to take mine apart without ruining it. How can I do that?
My lcd display flicker fades. Replacement on the way, hope the numbers are a solid black.
Hey bro? Can you read value resistor r1 r2 r3 r4 r5 r6 in ht118a? Thank. Because i don't know read resistor.
"You don't want to watch me do this".... lol... thanks for the review. Only disappointment was not checking the temp functionality. I'm wondering if it is ambient or with the leads only. Realistically, it's not a deal breaker.
Only reads with the thermocouple inserted. (I've got the same model of MM here on my desk.)
It shows ambient with no leads. Other meters with in-built K thermocouple range, such as the HT206D amp clamp, will show ambient temp when the leads are shorted in temp range.
A bit clunky for my taste but overall great review of yet another DMM
Correct me if I'm wrong here but, R005 should be 0.005 ohms not quarter ohms (0.25) 10A thru a 0.25 ohm SMD resistor should go bang!
i measured .25
@@learnelectronics Yes, I know, but I believe you measured it in circuit, which may sometimes give a false reading due to other components interfering. Just saying, SMD component code R005 means 0.005 ohms, or 5 miliohms, which is a much more reasonable value for a series shunt resistor in a path that can potentially carry a 10A load current. Anyways, I do enjoy your videos and like the way you explain things, not trying to be a smart-ass or anything here.
What is the max capacitance?
Great Channel. Would you recommend this meter over the innova 3340a?
They are about the same. Go for the best deal.
@@learnelectronics thank you. Big help
Is there a way to jumper the backlight of the screen to stay on?
Better meters sometimes have adjustable backlight timeout. This is not one of those.
My probes came with a red cap and when I removed it I see that each of the leads has a red ball in the middle of their connectors to the dmm. I've never seen this before. Are these plastic balls meant to be in there? Why?
Those "lawyer balls" are to reduce the likelihood of some fumble-fingers electrocuting himself (or herself). The problem with making something truly foolproof is that fools can be surprisingly ingenious.
Looks like the most functional one from the cheap ones. It has min/max, bargraph and True RMS. What else do you need? Themodel name is HT118A (HT118C dos not have bargraph).
A REL mode would be helpful in some tests. A PEAK and true TOUCH HOLD, as on the various evolutions of the Fluke 87, are useful as well. Wish mine had not been stolen by some thieving booger-picker.
Any chance I could get some advice on how I use this to test a car battery that has been in my garage since last winter? I have the battery hooked up to a battery charger, but I'm not sure if it's too dead to take a charge.. My multimeter is only giving me a reading of 6.42 volts? Is it a junk battery, or do I have wrong setting on my multimeter? The battery is about 5 or 6 years old and I just got a noco genius battery charger to try and get it charged up to use for my electric fence. The leads I received wit my kaiweet multimeter have very small points on them, like a pencil tip prong. Do i just press these tiny prongs up to the big beefy terminals on my battery, or do I need different leads to make a better connection? Thanks for posting the video, it's been a good stepping stone to get me started. I can see I need to invest a little time into knowing all of these different settings and measurements. be well
edit: I figure I should add its a truck battery out of my f-150 rated for 850 cold cranking amps
6.42V? Yes, that's dead. All you need to do is poke those points into the lead battery terminals and make sure the meter is on "V".
@@learnelectronics Thanks a lot for your reply. I wasn't sure if the points were too small to give me a proper reading. I left it charging overnight and now I have a read out of 7.1... it was worth a shot lol
Does it use the standard 6.3x32mm fast blow fuses? Seems I blow at least 1-2 a year. Thinking of buying this as a low-end meter.
How did you get the condom off?
OK, I got the HT118A apart. To take the condom off, start at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, Adjacent the OFF and LIVE position on the dial. The condom is thin there and easy to stretch over the side and down towards the bottom. Pull it over the bottom corners, then lift out the bottom, then the top ten. Assemble in reverse order.
After the rubber is off, there are 4 screws in the corners. The fuses are indeed standard size per above. Pop out the shot 10A and snap in a new one. It works great now.
Thanks for your video, I saw just enough of you putting the condom back on to figure it out.
P.S. Make sure to seat the condom around the kick stand / battery cover opening before you try to put the cover back on.
"I guess we should take it apart, right?" Right, because I think I need to change a fuse. But how do you get it apart?
Little screws in the back
@@learnelectronics Thank you, but where? Maybe under the rubber cover, but I can't get that off either. You totally skipped this part in your video.
how did you open it? i have to change the fuse because it only says 0A all the time
Screws on the back.
@@learnelectronics somebody gotta write on it that the whole thing has a frckn bumper around it. I didn’t even recognise!
Auto power off ?
Forgot to add: Modem KM601
Dang Here we go again . Stupid Fuses non accessible unless you disassemble. Why do the keep doing that ? Those Lighted Jacks on my Mastech shown me the errors of my way more then a few times. LOL Liking the Current Source yur using. Can you supply a link on that one ? Wonder how long that shunt would take 10A ?
Honestly if you need that much access to the fuses you are doing something wrong as I have never blown mine out on any meter in 30+ years and when I did it is because I did something stupid by hitting it with over 3500 volts.
@@thebeststooge LOL, Chit happens. How hard would it be to simply place them in the battery access ?
@pulesjet Funny you ask because the one, and only, time I blew the fuse was on the old Radio Shack DMM which had the fuse, omg, right there in the lower section of the battery compartment. LOL.
@@thebeststooge Marketing ploy. You pop a fuse , you buy a new one. Hell TV's use to come with a Schematic posted in the back of them too. LOL
@pulesjet I loved looking inside the TV on the back panel behind the CRT for the schematic. Gone are the days of finding schematics on so much stuff since everything is made in China. As far as Marketing ploy you pop a fuse and a lot of people who buy the less expensive meters will throw it in the garbage can and buy a new meter. Very sad but so so true as well.
I think you should see someone about your multimeter obsession/fetish!! Ha Ha!
Nice vid.
Hello sir. Which one is better between Kaiweets 118a and Aneng 8008?
I'd go with the Aneng 8008
@@learnelectronics
Ok sir, thanks for your suggestion.
14:25 He spoke my mind . it look just like kids pencil box
I would say just get an Aneng 8008/9
wow I have been using the Fluke until now omg for 21$ free shipping vs 250$ from fluke omg
it is the same model as the Hobotest HT118A
Just by curiosity, how many multimeters you have? :O
I dont know
@@learnelectronics That is a lot!
Never say "we may lose a digit" when dealing with electricity! 🤣🤣🤣
true...
Don’t run the Hz% with the light on, it will freak out and give various Hz counts, not accurate. How does the high/low range work.
dont run the duty cycle on volts over 10. will ruin the meter. trust me on this one. if you plug into 120v wall outlet and switch to duty cycle it will not pop either fuse. just burn itself up and only be able to read voltage after that.
Paul, You know I really like your channel , I'm telling you now I'm not watching anymore multimeter video's, I have a Fluke bench multimeter, and heathkit multi from the 70's, & my analogue meter for tuning up I.F.'s that enough, I think this is the only way to cure your multimeter obsession ;) You must have learned if you have 1000 meter ,you'll get a 1000 different reading. If need be I will take to a corner and have a serious word with you ha ha ha :)
hello, my name is Paul and Im a test equipment addict
LED lights probably don't pull enough current to set off the AC sensor.
Really? What about wiring in your house that has nothing plugged in? There is no current draw from that....
@@gordselectronicshobby3853
True....but no current flow means no magnetic field. I don't know what the sensor reads, either a magnetic field or static voltage; perhaps both.
It detects unloaded live conductors by measuring alternating magnetic field resulting from capacitive reactance.
That multimeter is for 'private' testing
This Multimeter is PURE garbage. I purchased this on amazon week ago and the display suck bad. Whenever it beeps the lcd backlight dims when synced with beeping. Also tested the NCV, suppose to turn Orange when above 80volts doesn't do that at all. when turning on the backlight there's a black line on the right of the screen. Contacted Amazon for replacement, received it yesterday same results. returned both units for refund.
Lowest-bidder rebrands from Chinese makers are too often like that. By sheer luck, I must have received a less awful one. On mine, the only useless feature is the "Flashlight" that's dimmer than a common match.
The HABOTEST HT1118 Is exactly the same device...
I love China XD
Currently $10 on Amazon
100 megaFarad ...? wow!😊
Bought this to test dead - 15 months without use-bus batteries I'm charging....It would have been a more helpful video
I just received. DOA except as follows. Anyone can pop in and offer real ideas. Thanks.
1. new batteries. tried three sets. all alkaline nominal 1.55V
2. new cables. Old and new verified as 0 Ohms continuity - so no defects there.
3. tried three 12VDC sources and two ACV sources (120 and 240)
no readings on KM601. Perfect readings on my old Sperry DMM.
Turns on. LEDs at leads connectors flash GREEN. Everything visible and
switching modes all functions.
However…no reading take place in any mode except default ambient temperature.
Return it
It is a current sensing resistor. Don't trust the cat rating. No MOV's or spark gaps, or isolation slots. Those small PTC's are not enough. Now as a bench meter for DC and components testing will be fine.
THAT METER NEEDS A LITTLE BIT OF CALIBRATION. MOST OF YOUR READING S WERE OFF. BY THE WAY, DOES IT HAVE A MAGNET ON THE BACK? NO. DOES IT HOLD THE PROBES IN THE BACK? NO. WELL, I THINK IT DOES, BUT NOT SURE SINCE YOU DIDN'T MENTIONED. SO THIS KAIWEETS METER IS NOT FOR ME.
IT DOES HOLD PROBES IN THE BACK, BUT IT'S NOT FOR YOU.
bahaha allibaba hahaha
อยากได้เครื่องมือวัดติดต่อเบอร์โทรศัพท์อะไรครับ
Is this a HABOTEST clone?
Thank you sir, it's good for audio technician ?
sure