Fix Old Cameras: Olympus OM 1 Prism Foam Cleaning
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2013
- Ugly black marks in the the view finder of the Olympus OM-1. Degrading foam covering on the prism is the cause and removing the foam and replacing the prism is a fairly simple fix. Watch this video to find out how to make the repair. .
classic camera repair - www.phototronic.biz
A few tools and books - www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcam...
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | ครอบครัวสะท้านทุ่ง "นางบี & อ้ายสติ๊ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A1rhYcxxNtA/mqdefault.jpg)
All these years later and this video is STILL helping people!!!
Thank you for your kind words.
This video highlights one of those “I wish I knew this back then” moments. I owned an OM-1 that I bought used in 1977. I loved it, but I got a DSLR in 2007 and the foam had deteriorated around the pentaprism. I wound up donating it to a goodwill shop. If I had my time back, I would’ve repaired it! Thank you very much for this video!
I've just done this procedure and want to thank you for the guide - a massive help.
Thank you again for doing what you do. I just replaced the prism on a Minolta OM-1. Thank you and keep up with the great work. Let's give this guy a GOLD play button everybody.
Your videos are absolutely fantastic, love them! I love analog-photography and your videos are very, very helpful for me. Thank you very much!
Thank you for this video! I was able to resync my ASA dial with the underlying mechanism thanks to it. Great job.
AMAZING INFO!! Saved a beautiful OM-1N from being completely ruined .. thank you!!!!
Thank you for your interest and support of FOC.
Swapped the prism out on a om1 using a om10 as a donor.
Worked well.
Thank you for the video showing the basics.
Good to hear of your success.
Just finished removing the foam on the prism of my OM-2. Pretty much the same as the OM-1 in the video. I had to take the top back off to get the spring for the back cover catch in correct. First time it fell over and I couldn't get the back open. Put the spring in correct and it works great. Thank you for all your efforts in providing these most helpful videos.
It is frustrating to have completed a repair only to find that a part was forgotten and that spring in particular is easy to forget.Very good to hear your persistence paid off. Often that is the difference of a successful repair and a fail.
Yes my OM-1 had the same problem. But admittedly I took it to a shop for the repair. I still need (much) more patience and less panic to try the repair for myself ;)
Excellent video. Thank you.
Amazingly helpful video - helped me clean up my OM1n! Really appreciate you helping these amazing bits of engineering stay usable :)
Thank you very much. your video was very helpful
this channel is a holy grail. thanks a lot!
You are welcome and thank you for your nice comment
Great video, thank you for doing this!
Any idea on how to remove the top plate from an OM-4? Im stuck at the Advance Lever and the online manuals are extremely vague.
Excellent video, thank you!
Thank you for your interest in FOC.
I'd like to see fixing a bent film door release and film rewind knob on a Nikon FM.
Just found your site. Very enjoyable.
Thanks for these great tutorials! I followed your guide with good results but I had to cut the red wire to the hotshoe mount and now the light meter is all erratic and not working properly. Could this be linked, like a voltage change or an earth that's no longer there etc?
Thanks, very helpfull, I removed the foam with your help.
Very good to hear of your success.
Also might I suggest using further electrical tape in place of the old light seals? Great video, really helpful
Great video. Thank you so much for providing this info!
Too much fun!
Excellent ! Thank You !
You are welcome.
I have an Olympus OM-1. I have it functional, but noticed that shutter speeds 1/1 to approx 1/16 or so just stay open as if in B mode. I'd like ideas on this kind of repair. Your videos have inspired me to take mine apart and fix it myself. Thanks for the tool tips!
The slow speed escapement lives under bottom plate of the mirror box. Accessing it will be covered in an upcoming Fix Old Cameras video. It is possible that flush cleaning the escapement and a drop of oil in the right spot might fix the issue. Please be patient for the posting of the video. It could be some time yet. Thank you so very much for your interest and enthusiasm.
great video very helpful and educative. can you teach us in depth about galvameter, asa dial and lightmeter. the asa dial on my olympus om2 doesn't have effect on the metering. thank you in advance
That might make a FOC feature, thank you for the suggestion. With the top cover removed... check the ASA cam linkage and aperture ring cordage to see that the galvanometer coil is rotated with ASA and aperture. Check for binding.
I’m very glad I’ve come across your videos. They’ve helped me several times recently. My latest adventure is dealing with a shutter button on my OM2 that isn’t working. It’s as if it’s stuck in its current position. It’s recently acquired by me and likely hasn’t been used in a while. What would be the best way to get it working again? And I’ll likely need to replace the focus screen. I’d love to see a video of that process. Many thanks for the service you provide.
Thank you for the suggestion and for your interest in FOC. The OM2 is a beautiful camera and a should be featured some in up coming videos... hard to say when such a video might be produced.
@@BeardLAD Should be fun... maybe with a cameo appearances of an "Igor" type character.
Love your videos. My OM-2 Spot Program on the "manual/spot" position shows the exposure go up and down but does not show the arrow (correct exposure position), witch defeats the whole purpose of that camera to me. I some times see the missing indicator light up, glitching, from time to time. P.D.: Can't explain how satisfying this videos are, thank you.
The OM-2 cameras have an exposure control circuit and an exposure meter circuit they nearly work independent of each other. The exposure control circuit fits on a single ceramic board at the bottom of the mirror box. The exposure meter circuit fits around the viewfinder and prism. The problem is probably in the exposure meter circuit. To properly troubleshoot for the cause of this issue is somewhat detailed and involved. However there are a couple of simple possibilities... Check for loose ground screws in the meter circuit around the CDS cells (located next to VF). Check solder connections around resistors in the meter circuit.
I have a OM-4 with what I believe is a broken camera back release. Any recommendations for repair?
Thank you making this excellent video! I wonder if the prisms can be resilvered or if it's just better to find a donor body? I found a broken body on eBay that was really clean except for having been dropped and the mounts at the lens/shutter ring were cracked.
They can be if you have the required skills and materials, however for most cameras it is far easier and less expensive to locate a good donor as you have done. The old foam also needs to be removed from the donor prism so as to prevent future deterioration.
Thanks for this great tutorial. I'm trying to apply the same method to repair an OM2 but the OM2 has a exposure compensation meter coupled with the iso dial instead of a shutter speed dial. I accidently turned the dial while repairing and was wondering how I set the exposure back so the information represented on the dial is accurate to the setting inside the camera body. Could you possibly add a short tutorial on this?
You should be able to use another camera with a known good meter to use as reference for the set up.
Good video, but from my experience the washer (ie the metal plate) is placed upside down in the rewind knob at 7:12. Today a film got stuck when I was going to rewind it and the rewind knob came lose so I had to put it back together.
When I followed this video the rewind lever felt lose and I looked at one of my other OM1s and saw that the washer went the other way around. When I redid it the lever was bouncy again.
You also don't need to use tweezers to pull the shaft back up. You can just use your finger and push it up.
Very instructive ! I wonder if you have any tips or video to help me repairing the light meter in my OM-1: the needle´s stuck somewhere in the middle position, battery´s fine. Thank you!
+werewolf164
Remove the prism and check for some sort of physical blockage of the needle. The string that connects to the aperture linkage could be broken or come off a pulley. Disconnect the meter from the circuit and apply voltage from a single button battery (a battery partial run down is ideal) to the wire and ground. The needle should peg, although unlikely the action could reset the position of the needle.
Thanks for the video, helped a lot with the OM 1n i've just got. Although it seems like something's missing - when i look inside of the camera through the lens mount hole, i can see more foam around focusing screen, how do we clean and replace that part? Mine is def. has turned into gummy...Thanks!
You will need to carefully remove the old foam with a wooded cleaning stick carved to a blunt scraping edge that is of the proper width. The degraded foam could scar or smudge the focusing so work with care and should you get a flake or crumble on the screen try to remove it with a gentle blast of air or lift it off the offending piece as shown in FOC videos.
When I accidentally shut the film door when the rewind knob was removed on my Canon A-1 I used a bit of piano wire with a tiny right angle end inside the socket for the shaft and pulled up on the latch from the inside.
Clever use of materials on hand.
Hi there, thanks for the tutorial, just wondering if there will be any lightleaks if the foam is removed this way. Cheers
Removing the damaging degrading foam from the prism of the OM-1 will not cause a light leak. Not sure what the purpose of the foam was originally unless it was to offer impact protection from the flash shoe socket bracket. If any knows or would like to speculate on the purpose of the prism foam please share a post. Removing the foam will cause no operational issues.
Another excellent video. Thank you! With help from your excellent video on fixing the sticky shutter magnet problem in OM10s I am going to service the OM10 that I have had since I bought it new in about 1980. Do OM10s also have foam on top of the prism? Would you consider making a video guide to taking the top cover off an OM10?
Keep up the good work, you are saving the lives of stacks of old cameras out here!
Thank you for the suggestion and it wculd be a possibility.
As to OM10 having foam on top of the prism: No. Which is why a broken OM10 is a good donor for a prism.
@@Bert-xi1dn Great. Thank you!
@@Bert-xi1dn I realise I'm replying to an old comment, but does the OM10 have the same prism as the OM1? I realise that it will physically fit, but if it is smaller or doesn't have the silvering then it would be a downgrade. I never hear the OM10 being complemented for its large bright viewfinder in the same was as the OM1 is.
Your videos are terrific...a great resource. Question: I plan to remove the the prism foam from my OM-2N. I see some degradation just outside the actual viewfinder field of view, right at the lower border where black meets the field of view. While this doesn't interfere at all with using the viewfinder now, I'm concerned that eventually it will. Once I have removed the foam, will the prism degradation stop, or should I expect to replace the prism at some point? Thanks.
The degradation of the prism will stop once the deteriorating foam is removed completely. If you would like, replace the old foam with a piece of wool felt of the appropriate thickness
Hello FOC - Thank you for some very informative videos. I just cleaned my prism and removed the foam no problem. But now when I've put the top cover back on - the film door wont open when I pull the rewinder. It seems that when I pull the rewinder the locking arm isn't pulled high enough to open the door. Any tips? thank you.
Remove the top cover again and check to see if the linkage plate the is lifted by the rewind knob to disengage the door latch is misplaced.
Thank you for the video. could you perhaps help with a problem? When I pull the rewind knob up it should obviously open the film door. But since I have removed the top cover it doesn't spring open like it should. do you think that I've installed something wrong or is the tension off the door latch spring compromised?
+HKG36E The door latch spring would only effect the latching of the film door when closing. The spring snaps the latch down after the film door latch pushes the body latch up for, creating the door closed and latched condition. If the door now does not pop open at all then possibly the door latch in the body of the camera is not position correctly in the slot of the rewind shaft sleeve. If this is the case then when the rewind knob is lifted to open the door the latch is not being disengaged. If the door opens with help then the door is binding somewhere. Try to determine where the door might be rubbing. Check the latch on the door to see if it rubs against the body of the camera also.
i Would love to see you fully restore a Olympus OM-2N
Thank you for your request.
I needed to ask a fellow repairman about the OM-1n md circuit board. There is a diode solder to the meter circuit board but no circuit is associated with it. Could this be the Olympus move to use the 1.5v battery to get rid of using the mercury cell?
Hello sir! Could you demonstrate how to clean the viewfinder of the om1 (Not the prism) please? Thank you so much for this video!!
Already have... check the FOC video Dust in the Viewfinder in the Olympus Playlist.
Is it the same process with an OM-1n? Thank you!
Thank you for video, if my viewfinder is affected already from the "leaking foam" can I still clean it or is it too late?
if you see smears at the bottom of the viewfinder when looking into it, and if they resemble the contour/shape of the foam on the socket as seen in this video (as at 5:26), then the leaking foam already delaminated the prism; you're the judge as to what extent you can tolerate this, but it can't be fixed. By the way, you can see the delamination in person when you remove the focusing screen (see the corresponding video on this channel)
If you are referencing the plastic focus screen the foam will often leave a scar. It can be cleaned with a lint free swab saturated with distilled water following the concentric circles of the Fresnel lens.
Great clarification. Thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.
I had to replace the prism in my dad's OM1, the old foam delaminated too much of the silver. I needed two donor cameras to get it all back together
Good to hear of your success. Thank you for your interest in FOC.
What was the last year of the "bad foam" in the OM camera?
Curious if anyone could help me with my Shutter Ring on the body, it is thought to turn, needs a lot of pressure to turn, works fine.
I would have loved to have this video handy when I did my OM-1 a while back. Although I managed to remove the rotten foam, a faint line remains in the VF since, as the silver has been eaten by the goo. In those days I had bought a BER OM-10 on the belief the prism between both models was the same and I could swap the good prism of the 10 in the 1 (this is something I had actually read, I didn't make it up). But I never got around to actually attempt it because I never found an adequate tutorial on how to reach and replace the prism. Do you think it would be possible ?
It could be done.
Fix Old Cameras please 😁🙏🏻
Hi, I have found both cleaning the viewlfinder and prism foam very helpful and you efforrts are greatly appreciated, my OM2 now has what seems an intermitent fault with the shutter when in Auto mode, it works sometimes but other times it will leave the shutter open until I reset it, if I operate it in manual mode the shutter opens and closes without fail at the appropriate shutter speed, leading to my conclusion that this is purely an issue only when shooting in auto, for info the ligth meter works fine for both manual and auto. Could this be an intemittent electrical fault of debirs somewhere? Regards
Have you tried fresh batteries? Had this same problem and that fixed it
Thanks Harry, yes I did put new batteries in, I also tried the same batteries from my OM2n but alas it still exhibits the same symptoms, auto will work but the shutter speeds it fires are way off, additionally the shutter will sometimes just stick and not return back unless I reset or flip to manual, manual mode seems to work absolutely fine.
Thanks
You suspicion of an IC or component failure is possible correct. However, you may check the ASA wiper and the yellow and white wires. You will need to access the ceramic circuit under the mirror box bottom plate for the next check. On this circuit check the switch continuity to the photo cell (SPD) terminal nearest the rewind (cathode). Check the continuity from the wiper of the adjustable resister nearest the wind side of the camera to the other terminal of the SPD. There is also a 470pf capacitor under this circuit board that could be leaking or could need cleaned across the terminals.
you should do a video on the body light seal, mine is leaking light onto the film.
This FOC video might help you.
th-cam.com/video/lW7dAVUzDKU/w-d-xo.html
Where does one get that type of spanner wrench?
I have a question about the silver on the prisim, what effect does it have on what you see in the view finder?. I just got an OM-1 and I two triangles in the prism at the very bottom. doesn't seem to me it would effect the photograph .
They are annoying and ugly and as long as you can still frame the picture, focus and read the meter, they are also harmless.
Bought an OM-1N on eBay about 6 months ago for £40 with the original box and manuals, light meter was broken, so opened up the camera and cables had rotten. All the shutter speeds worked well - so I got a mint 35mm f2.8 OM-system lens for it (I thought I could always resell the lens or adapt it so got a really good example). After testing with the lens today, the lens will not focus on infinity. I can almost certainly rule out the lens, so what could it be in my OM-1N body that needs calibrating to focus on infinity? Hope you, or your viewers, can help me! Thank you!
Try the lens on another camera to confirm rather it is a camera, lens or
combination problem. If you do not have that option. Lock the shutter
open on bulb and apply the transparent office tape that is cloudy, it
will give you a focusing surface similar to ground glass. If the image
is sharp than you know the lens is OK and the issue is with the reflex
mirror or viewfinder screen. The first thing to check would be that the
focusing screen did not get inadvertently flipped upside down. The angle
of the reflex mirror will then need to be checked.
Fix Old Cameras Bought an OM adapter for my Sony a6000 and the lens has the same symptoms... seems really odd as the lens looks new! I have written to the seller on eBay so hopefully will be able to come to some agreement on an exchange/refund :( Thanks for your help and fast reply!
Also does it need any adjustments
I need your help! My om-20/G top cover wont remove . i have removed thw basic parts but the asa dial doesnt seem to come off
To get the ASA knob off you must first remove the ASA over under dial that contains the ASA window.
OM-2 and OM-2n shutter curtain cleaning and lubrication please.
Your suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Why they initially put foam if it doesn’t be usefull ? Is the electrical tape is enough ? Thank you for your tutorial !
Maybe it was installed as sound dampening... frankly it is still mystery yet to be solved here.
I wonder if there is some sort of silver paint, that one could apply to restore the reflecitve coating of the prism that gets lost with cleaning?
It is the degraded foam that eats into the silver coating of the prism and it is a wonder why it was ever used when the camera is so carefully engineered and constructed in so many other ways. There is a procedure to restore the reflective surface, but, unfortunately the silvering solution is a highly toxic mix of silver nitrate and sodium hydroxide and ammonia and no fun to work with. Probably easier and cheaper to find a donor camera with a good prism. The specialty "looking glass mirror" spray paint might work to some degree, but it is not intended for optical quality.
I see. Unfortunatelly this is a pretty common problem that I encountered on on several OM-1's by now.
Hi, I check your camera repair tool store but I did not see the spanner wrench you used in your video. Do you have the link for that wrench? thanks
There is Japanese copy of the spanner wrench that is featured in the Fix Old Cameras videos. The blades are held in by a screw rather than a click stop. Pointed and slotted tips are included. It is now available at the included link.
astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B002QIACDO
The spanner wrench featured in the Fix Old Cameras videos is apparently temporarily unavailable or perhaps no longer available. The spanner tool seen in the videos has been in continuous service for over 35 years!
Fix Old Cameras Well, not all old thing is bad. I really like the spanner wrench in that video as it has the round toe and will not cause scratch mark on the body when it slip out of the small holes on the body.
I was able to completely replace the brown wire up to the switch with a new one as the previous was completely corroded, but my light meter is still not working. Do you know what else could be causing this issue?
+mj0188 isg Congratulations on the wire replacement. Check all solder connections. Check on/off switch for proper function. Check battery chamber for proper connectivity. Apply battery voltage to the galvanometer to confirm functionality. Check resistance of CDS cells. The resistance of the CDS cells should vary with the intensity of light striking the photo sensitive surface.
Where did you buy the spanner?
The spanner wrench featured in the video is one of three that have been in continual service for nearly 40 years. 8 different interchangeable tips, a very good tool and unfortunately no longer available, unless a used one can be found. There are other options available, but none appear to be the equal of them. Recommendation would of course be helpful to you but none of the options available have been personally tested. The link below is a start. Of course, often in tools... you get what you pay for.
www.amazon.com/shop/influencer-c06c729d?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp
where are the light sensors on the eyepiece for the meter on the om-1n?
The cds cells are located in the frame that surrounds the viewfinder lens. The viewfinder lens assembly will need to be removed to access them.
Can you make a video on how to clean Canon AE-1 Program Prism cleaning and viewfinder cleaning please !!
The AE-1 P viewfinder screen can be removed by releasing the clip at the front center of the viewfinder screen frame. Handle the screen very carefully as it scratches easily and do not use any cleaning fluid on it except distilled water.
Fix Old Cameras I also have fungus growing in the eye piece of the view finder how do I clean the eye piece optics
What you perceive as fungus might be residue from degraded foam seal. Of if it is fungus on you eye piece lens glass it can be cleaned with alcohol, again only use distilled water on the view finder focus screen and always follow the concentric circles. If it is only dust on the screen, use a soft lens brush and a puff of air.
How hard is it to remove the entire prism and replace it? I have an OM-1 with so much silver degradation that the viewfinder is unusable.
+David Hancock
It should not be considered overly difficult. The prism removal varies slightly from early to later models of the OM-1 or OM-1n because of meter circuit, assc. shoe bracket and CDS cell assemble position, but the prism in all OM-1 cameras is held in place by a bracket across the crown peak of the prism and two screws. Take care with the loose prism bracket screws that they are not allowed to fall along side the gap into the mirror box. The prism has a slight curve to the bottom that fits against the viewfinder screen frame and care should be taken that it is seated properly before placing the prism bracket.
Fix Old Cameras Are prisms across the OM series interchangeable?
The prism between the different versions of the OM-1 and OM-2 are pretty much interchangeable.
+David Hancock I've read that OM-1, OM-2, OM-10, OM-G, OM-20, OM-PC, OM-40 all use the same prism. I've pulled out an OM-G prism and can verify it's the same part.
cooperontreadmill Nice! I haven't replaced the prism yet but I have a parts OMG around here somewhere that I'm not concerned with re-assembling.
What can be done for a prism that has some corrosion on the silver? Can the OM-1 prism be re-silvered?
Yes a prism can be re-silvered. Typically the restoration of a prism is not practical. Often locating a donor camera is the best option.
@@FixOldCameras Cheers for that. Yeah, I can see prisms on ebay in decent shape. Cool. :)
it would be nice if you'll make a video about om-1/om-2 meter adjustment.
Thank you for the suggestions. The OM-1 is more likely to be featured because of the simplicity of the circuitry.
By the way - is there any method of adjusting the meter if turning eccentric on galvonometr case doesn't help (in my case it throws the meter needle in direction opposite to needed).
If the eccentric adjustment is insufficient, you can change the position of the meter pulley. Lift aside the photocell galvanometer unit and loosen the 3 screws. Be aware of the meter link cordage. Or you can change the timing of the coupling gear located front of camera under lens mount. Again be aware of the meter link cordage as you add or or subtract engagement. Turning the gear counter clockwise moves the needle up. For linearity adjustment you will have to change the fixed resistor values through experimentation. Note: The OM1n as an adjustment screw at the bottom of the meter pulley. Turning the adjustment will change the length of the meter cordage and consequently changes the meter position.
If the eccentric adjustment is insufficient, you can change the position of the meter pulley. Lift aside the photocell galvanometer unit and loosen the 3 screws. Be aware of the meter link cordage. Or you can change the timing of the coupling gear located front of camera under lens mount. Again be aware of the meter link cordage as you add or or subtract engagement. Turning the gear counter clockwise moves the needle up. For linearity adjustment you will have to change the fixed resistor values through experimentation. Note: The OM1n as an adjustment screw at the bottom of the meter pulley. Turning the adjustment will change the length of the meter cordage and consequently changes the meter position.
I nned to buy the cross head screwdriver, can you reply with what size it is? thanks!
- 2.5 would be the most prevalent -
Hey there, wondering if the OM-2n has the same issue? Thanks.
If the foam placed between the accessory socket bracket and the prism comes in contact with the glass of the prism it will have the same results given the right conditions.
Alright thanks a lot! Was thinking about getting it but I think I'll go with a Nikon FM2 instead.
Both the OM-2n and FM2 are fun cameras to use and proven designs.
Despite using many variations of an expanding spacer wrench (corn on the cob holders, sewing pins, pointed sharp tweezers) I still cannot get the decoration cover off the film advancer. It's like the darn thing is stuck. I've tired moving it clockwise & counterclockwise to try and loosen it but nothing happens except me getting frustrated & scratching the heck out of the plate! PLEASE HELP!!!!
If a sturdy spanner wrench is not available, I would suggest the small DYI spanner outlined in the Fix Old Camera Video or a small pair of needle nose pliers. They will give you more torque. The damaged decoration cover plate can be separated from the retainer screw by pooling isopropyl alcohol on the face to loosen the adhesive. Replace it with a circle of leatherette or some other suitable substitute. The pin face spanner screw is loosened counter clockwise. Try seeping some solvent under it to loosen the threads.
Hey, first of all amazing video, Its great to find someone that socializes knowledge on this old cameras.
I have a terrible problem and maybe you could help. I bout my Olympus Om1, the camera of my dreams abroad and It came with the light meter diffusive. Its like sometimes the needle takes the exposure properly but at moments for no reason it gets crazy and marks wrong values. Also at speeds 1sec the shutter sort of gets stacked, dont know if it is related.
In my country I would have to pay almost the same amount of money for repairing it than getting a new one from Japan full operating and that would mean expend a ton over again, that's why I choose to look for help in videos and see if I can fix it by myself. Using a camera that was meant to be the tiniest of SLR with an external exposure meter seems pretty bad and is't obviously what I had in mind wile buying it.
Could you please make a video or give me instructions on how to fix it? If you need I can send you a video of the problem, I am really desperate about it.
The shutter issue is not related to the meter issue. The slow speed
escapement needs to be addressed for the issue with the 1 second speed.
Be on the watch for a FOC video showing how to access the slow speed
escapement. In the mean time the slow speed escapement is located under
the bottom cover plates in the mirror box. The cover plates are held in
place with glue and the felt strips the line the lower edges of the
mirror box. See if the issue with the meter is related to the aperture
setting. If so then the error is being caused by the aperture meter
linkage. The edge of the aperture linkage tab should rest next to the
red dot on the lens mount bayonet. The tab is about 3mm by 10mm and
should slide under the lens mount in a counter clockwise direction and
spring back when release. When moving the linkage it should change the
position of the meter needle.
I'm not sure if I completely followed your explanation. I think I found the tab you're talking about but it doesn't move at all although when the lens are placed the needle changes its position with aperture and speed changes. It is more like the needle is loose, if you shake the camera the needle will move freely and start measuring all whatever it wants. For example it happens a lot when you start moving the A and S rings from min to max that the needle gets stuked in the higher points or just gets crazy as you decrease the light.
Hope you could get what I mean
Maybe, if I read your description correctly, you have an issue with galvanometer itself. Could be a dirty in the winding of the coil. A very gentle flush into the galvanometer with alcohol might help. Be VERY CAREFUL not to allow any alcohol to flow under the prism onto the view finder screen.It could damage the screen. If cleaning does not help or makes it worse than the issue with the meter is probably a short in the winding and the galvanometer will have to be replaced. Because of the linkage string attached to the top of the meter there is a timing concern that makes the replacement of the meter a little tricky.
Okey that sounds pretty complicated but I will try my best because I got no other choice.
can you give more specific instructions on how to clean the galvanometer?
Also, throw the viewfinder I can see a few black stains, is that related to the foam that you clean in this video? How can I clean it?
If you already see black stains then the prism is probably already damaged from the degrading foam. But the old foam should still be removed to arrest any more damage. Maybe you should wait on the tackling the galvanometer issue until after you have sharpened your camera repair skills a bit. In the mean time you can still use your camera to great success with out your meter. You may have heard of the the "sunny 16 rule." On a bright sunny day if you set your aperture to F/16, and you shutter speed to match your ASA/ISO of your film you will get a good exposure. For instance if your ASA is 400 your would set the shutter speed to 500 or if the ASA is 200 you would set the shutter speed to 250. Following the “sunny 16” rule you’ll get an exposure that is neither too bright nor too dark. For snow or a white sandy beach f/22. On a slightly overcast day when it’s mostly sunny but there is a high cloud in the sky blocking out some of the light, you can use the slightly overcast F11 rule to get the right exposure. If it is a completely overcast day, you would set your aperture to F8. On heavy overcast days and fog, just set your aperture to F5.6. Shooting into a sunset with the sun below the horizon, F/4 should work. If you want to change the shutter speed off of the inverse of the ASA you will increase your aperture by one full stop every time you decrease you shutter speed by one full stop and visa versa every time you decrease the aperture. Also printed on the inside of the film box is an exposure chart.
Hi, I bought a used om-2n with the rewind shaft dropped and the door is closed, what can I do?
Watch the Fix Old Cameras video on OM-1 Prism Cleaning at about the 6:55 point for one technique. If the rewind shaft has dropped completely free, a paper clip bent to a hook that will fit into the rewind shaft opening can be used to access the film door latch. The door latch plate hiding under the leatherette can also be removed ( a word of caution - watch for the door latch bushings). The procedure will be demonstrated on several camera models in an up coming Fix Old Camera video.
I seem to have Fungus in the actual Prism of my Olympus OM-1 Camera. I took out the focusing screen to check to see if it was from that angle, but it seems that the problem is with in the prism itself. Do you have a video that goes beyond this video to show how to get into the prism itself? Maybe removing the eye piece?
Please let me know if you have anything like that.
A video showing how to remove the prism from an OM-1 would be a suitable subject for a Fix Old Camera video. The marking that you are seeing is probably separation of the reflective coating from the glass of the prism. The degrading foam has already damaged your prism. By removing the foam you have at least arrested the process. Thank you for your comments and suggestion.
Love the page! I actually need to replace the viewfinder assembly on an OM-1 with a better one from another OM-1 I have since I have exactly the problem Jessica mentioned! Could you tell me if you ever made a video on this? Thanks! James
Does a Pentax K1000 have foam on top of the penta-prism that needs to be removed? How do you know the foam needed to be removed?
The K1000 does not have the foam living on top of the prism so it is not an issue for it. If you have an OM-1 and you do not know is history, remove the top cover and inspect. If you can see what looks like shadowy spots when looking into the viewfinder of an OM-1 than the damage as already started to occur.
Fix Old Cameras
Thank you. I am seeing what looks like black mold when I look through the view finder of my Pentax K1000. I am wondering if it would be easy to remove the view finder screen to clean th prism.
any videos for OM-30?
Thank you for you suggestion. The OM-30 and OM-F are somewhat uncommon and the opportunity for them to be featured in a Fix Old Cameras video is remote, but still a possibility as they are interesting in and of themselves.
I'm having a very hard time with the first step (removing the decorative cover above the advance lever. The spanner wrench flexes but the plate simply won't spin. Any suggestions?
+Andrew Viny Remove the black decorator plate so if the spanner slips you don't leave a mark. Make sure you apply pressure in counter clockwise direction. Seep isopropyl alcohol under the spanner screw and apply heat from the tip of a solder iron for 2 to 3 minutes (longer if needed).
The problem I'm having is removing the decorator plate. It just won't budge. Wouldn't an iron melt it?
The decorator plate is painted soft alloy metal. Seep alcohol under the plate down through the spanner holes it will soften the glue and the plate will pop right off. Then you can work on the spanner screw with heat and alcohol to get the threads to release. Be patient. It will work.
I had this problem too. I was pressing down too hard with a twin spiked lens tool and digging into the wind lever, so nothing would turn. When I made a tool with a length of hard alloy and two squared off small diameter nails set into holes drilled the right distance apart, I released the decorative black item OK. But I had to drill two new holes because I'd damaged it too much using the original spiked tool. Black nail varnish may be called for!
Thanks very much for these video guides.
Just curious why cleaning the degraded foam was necessary in the first place. Was it causing an issue with the camera's function?
If the degraded foam is left, overtime it will attack and destroy the reflective coating of the prism. The damaged coating will show as dark stains in the viewfinder.
It totally wrecks the prism and is visible in the viewfinder as an ugly black smear. Not good!
is this for the 'fluffy' stuff at the bottom of the viewfinder?
If the degrading foam has damaged the reflective coating of the prism, it might appear as if there is fluffy stuff in the viewfinder. However once the damage is done it can not be reversed only stopped from progressing.
Fix Old Cameras is there no way to clean the damage at all? Is the only option really finding a ‘dead body’ to replace the prism? Thanks!
Interesting. Electrical tape eventually fails in 2 ways. Either the adhesive turns to goo and slimes everywhere, or the plastic tape turns into a potato chip and cracks and snaps off. Wondering if you have considered cotton of some kind, that won't degrade?
(I actually clicked on your video thinking maybe you were going to get behind the focusing screen for replacement/cleaning. I have a Canon AV-1, non removable focusing screen that needs either replacement or a miracle to get rid of the adhesive foam from the mirror foam that disintegrated all over.)
So what is the purpose of this foam in the first place?
My mirror lock up will not raise the mirror fully (although otherwise it is fine). Can you demonstrate how to fix this?
+Kevin MacNutt Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras. The subject of a malfunctioning mirror lock up lever on the OM-1 would be a suitable repair demonstration for a FOC video. At some point in time it might be featured.
+Fix Old Cameras These videos are a wonderful service, thank you.
Does anybody know how to fix shutter speed on Olympus OM-1. No matter the shutter speed setting i put, the speed is all the same. Thank you
The shutter speed dial and the shutter speed changer gear are possibly not meshing. The contact point of the shutter speed dial ring and the shutter speed changer gear is visible by removing the the bottom cover plate inside the mirror box. The cover plate glue can be softened with alcohol. Be sure NOT to get any alcohol on the veiw finder screen as it will damage the fresnel plastic of the screen.
Thank you for the fast response. You are awesome. I can see the black plastic gear on the ring moving a metal horizontal small gear on the bottom. It seems to be changing but the shutter speed remains the same.
The gears can sometimes slip and lose timing. When the camera is set on the B position and in the proper timing you will see a small hole facing front and center in the speed changer gear. Also check to see if the levers are following the speed changer cam stack. Look for misplaced springs. Look for sticking levers. The slow speed escapement the sets toward the back right of the camera mirror box could be stuck.
FIxed it. Again, you are awesome. Thank you very much.
Very good. Glad to hear of you success.
Why was the foam in there if it can just be removed without replacement?
A good question that perhaps someone from the inner circle of Mr. Yoshihisa Maitani could answer. Maybe it was placed there for sound dampening, but regardless of the original intent the camera will operate perfectly with out it. If you would like maybe replace with a felt strip or more of the same foam... just remember in 30 years when it degrades again it will have to be replaced.
The prisms are the same as on om10s apparently.
They are indeed. The OM-2 can be swapped out also.
I found a list on the internet that says these are all the same prisms :
OM1, 1N, 2, 2N, 10 , G , 20.
Handy to know.
Thanks for posting a list of compatible cameras.
Came for infinite? Only me? Ok then
Very good. OK then.
destroyed my camera
what size are the cross point screwdrivesrs