Go to the Erwin site for the brand you want (should come up on Google), create an account (it's free). This gives you access to the digital service history database but also lets you pay for access to the workshop manuals. It's all pretty straightforward, just bear in mind they charge in Euros so choose a car with the lowest exchange fees.
I used Deutsche parts recently, I can’t sing their praises high enough, incredibly efficient and knowledgeable and they only sell genuine parts, which these days is rare. Great video, thanks.
No problem! Make sure it's a decent one at that price as you really don't want to cut corners with brake fluid. And make sure you depressurise it before disconnecting, you will forget once but never again - always keep water close by to pour on any spills :)
Have been overhauling my 2007 TT 3.2V6 Quattro suspension. That includes wheel bearings ,steering knuckles(Audi £500 each), strut, spring, top mount, trackrod end, sway link, brake discs (EBC) and pads(EBC). and all fixings brake pipes etc. so. almost complete except wishbones (which is aluminium and in almost perfect shape. Problem was that all bolts were rusted in, and the strut and wheel bearing impossible to separate. Most of the bits were from Autodoc, who are superb, just enter your vin, and or the part number and up comes the part, and exceptional good prices and a selection of suppliers. For example, rear calipers (TRW) £50 each!!) and they do videos of most activities..
Nice video. Just done our 2013 TT (once a year). This time I used Mannol 5w30 Longlife 504/507 which is correct spec & only £25 for 5 litres. I always have a habit of going up on ramps when I change oils, as I find there is more room to move around taking the undertray off. Never bother to use torque wrench for either filter or plug. Mine actually took all the 5 litres, but I do leave it to drain most of the morning.
Hi, I would have left the undertray off until checking for any sump plug leaks ? Also, never start an engine with a rag left on top of your engine maybe ? Just friendly observations that's all 🙂
Thanks for the observations. If you use a new sump plug and tighten it to the correct torque it won't leak and if it does (I know this from experience as once I reused the sump plug on this car) it will leak through undertray. As for the rag, really no risk and its there as a reminder to check level after starting. it's easy to forget spanners which will fall off and drop somewhere impossible to access so best practice is to check and empty engine bay before starting engine.👍🏻
I most definitely don't! Tomorrow morning it will be raining in there as the water that condenses on the uninsulated roof tiles freezes then defrost and rains down. So a bit of late summer rain in this video is better than icy water down the neck! Also the light is a lot better which is handy for underneath the car shots. And then we have the ****hole landlord who took over from the one I had for 17 years after he sadly passed away.
Had a 2007…..had it remapped….sold it last year with 72k on it…..fsh….…..it was the easiest and best car I’ve owned….Cooper Works before that…..M5 before that….S2000 before that……I just loved that wee car…..did I say it was the best car I’ve owned…..😢
@@volkswizard Can't match the minimalism of the Mk3 interior though, with the only a screen in front of you. Always wondered why there are not more sport cars like that.
Hi just wondering if you have had any water ingress in the boot. I have mk2 tfsi black edition on a 2014. I get water gathering under the battey. Any help or suggestions would be Greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Love the channel 👍
Hi mate. This drove me mad. I adjusted the tailgate striker lower but very slightly. Then the bump stops on the tailgate. Still water gathering around the battery. I park on a dive that slopes towards the rear of the car and realised that the water was making its way there from elsewhere in the car and not the tailgate region. This is because the battery area is the lowest point in the boot. Believe it or not I found that it was coming through via the fuel filler area. I noticed a slight split in the rubber surrounding the fuel filler cap. I applied butyl sealant all around the join of the fuel hose. I used butyl because it doesn't set and it's always malleable so you can finesse over time should you need to. Just be careful filling up as fuel can deteriorate it. I have been careful and had no issues regarding filling up. I have had no water in the boot area since after doing this 2 years ago. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on. Cheers, Richard
@@richardlawrence273 hi mate this is exactly where it was getting in. I stripped the hole cap rubber seal and everything. Wheel off and outer arch cover and Renee rubber seal and eventually found out that the water was still passing coming in via the outer seal of the fuel filler cap. It turns out you would need to by a new cap as the outer o ring /seal isn’t sold separately. I also sealed the outer edge of the fuel filter cap and no more water. 👍
Thanks Tristan. Just create an account and log into erwin for whichever VWG brand you want (VW Audi Seat Skoda) and then you can access them for 7 Euros per hour including downloading/printing. I just grab a load of PDFs and save them to my hard drive. It's brilliant!
What do you think of carbon cleans. I’ve got a mk2 TT tdi 2011 with 65,000 miles on. Running spot on with a stage 1 map. Just wondering if a carbon clean would be of benefit
I always have bled brakes with just a simple pipe that has a non return valve at the end, so can sit in container while i press the brake pedal a few times until it runs clear & no bubbles visible. Also just start at wheel furthest from reservoir nearside rear, finishing with offside front. Don't get why this should alter on different cars, but not sure.
The sequence is probably to do with the ABS pump fluid routing, VWG vary it from car to car so it's best to stick with the official order but ultimately order is just there to do it with least fluid possible. The reason I'd never press pedal for a brake fluid change is that it's been known for seals in the master cylinder to come out of position when the pedal is extended past its normal operating range. Also if you are pressing pedal you can't see what's happening at the nipple unless you have a helper which I don't.
Hi, how do I get hold of the Irwin Service check sheets, I do all my servicing, so these would be very handy, thanks
Go to the Erwin site for the brand you want (should come up on Google), create an account (it's free). This gives you access to the digital service history database but also lets you pay for access to the workshop manuals. It's all pretty straightforward, just bear in mind they charge in Euros so choose a car with the lowest exchange fees.
I don’t even have an Audi but happily watch Andrew toil away😂. Cheers, Kevin.
Just bought a mk2 TT tfsi Quattro and all your videos have been invaluable. 👍
Great to hear Martin! Mk2 TT really is a nice era of car, good looks, good materials and unlike Mk1, largely reliable, enjoy
@@volkswizard yeah watching the videos have helped me choose the right car and finally pull the trigger and buy. Thanks again. 👍
Great video, i bought the same spec car as yours because of your advise. Just done haldex service with pump 👍🏻More videos on the TT would be great
I used Deutsche parts recently, I can’t sing their praises high enough, incredibly efficient and knowledgeable and they only sell genuine parts, which these days is rare. Great video, thanks.
Thanks for another informative video on brake bleeding. Also, I found that pressure bleeding kit for just £24 on eBay.
No problem! Make sure it's a decent one at that price as you really don't want to cut corners with brake fluid. And make sure you depressurise it before disconnecting, you will forget once but never again - always keep water close by to pour on any spills :)
@@volkswizard Thanks for the tips! I'll bear them in mind when I give it a go.
You really should do the MK3 buy guide.
Mk2 is old enough to have 100 buy guides. But few only decent buy guides for mk3
Have been overhauling my 2007 TT 3.2V6 Quattro suspension. That includes wheel bearings ,steering knuckles(Audi £500 each), strut, spring, top mount, trackrod end, sway link, brake discs (EBC) and pads(EBC). and all fixings brake pipes etc. so. almost complete except wishbones (which is aluminium and in almost perfect shape. Problem was that all bolts were rusted in, and the strut and wheel bearing impossible to separate. Most of the bits were from Autodoc, who are superb, just enter your vin, and or the part number and up comes the part, and exceptional good prices and a selection of suppliers.
For example, rear calipers (TRW) £50 each!!) and they do videos of most activities..
I am eyeing a TTRS when one comes my way ..Great service tips
Thanks Ivan, Mk2 TT RS is an amazing car, my friend as done 50k in his with no issues apart from broken glovebox lid
Mines decided to stop unlocking the driver door with the fob 🤬.
Nice video. Just done our 2013 TT (once a year). This time I used Mannol 5w30 Longlife 504/507 which is correct spec & only £25 for 5 litres.
I always have a habit of going up on ramps when I change oils, as I find there is more room to move around taking the undertray off. Never bother to use torque wrench for either filter or plug.
Mine actually took all the 5 litres, but I do leave it to drain most of the morning.
Hi, I would have left the undertray off until checking for any sump plug leaks ?
Also, never start an engine with a rag left on top of your engine maybe ?
Just friendly observations that's all 🙂
Thanks for the observations. If you use a new sump plug and tighten it to the correct torque it won't leak and if it does (I know this from experience as once I reused the sump plug on this car) it will leak through undertray.
As for the rag, really no risk and its there as a reminder to check level after starting.
it's easy to forget spanners which will fall off and drop somewhere impossible to access so best practice is to check and empty engine bay before starting engine.👍🏻
Miss the old workshop 😢
I most definitely don't! Tomorrow morning it will be raining in there as the water that condenses on the uninsulated roof tiles freezes then defrost and rains down. So a bit of late summer rain in this video is better than icy water down the neck! Also the light is a lot better which is handy for underneath the car shots. And then we have the ****hole landlord who took over from the one I had for 17 years after he sadly passed away.
I have just had my brake fluid changed on an Audi TT Roadster but not done by me
As ever, like the odd 'getting the gloves dirty' video. And the bonus of some extra exercise doing that TT job as well, Andrew. 😁👍
Thanks! Yes the getting up of floor thing is definitely good exercise!
Had a 2007…..had it remapped….sold it last year with 72k on it…..fsh….…..it was the easiest and best car I’ve owned….Cooper Works before that…..M5 before that….S2000 before that……I just loved that wee car…..did I say it was the best car I’ve owned…..😢
They are a great car and that engine does respond to a map. They don't make them like that any more, Mk3 doesn't really do it for me
@@volkswizard Can't match the minimalism of the Mk3 interior though, with the only a screen in front of you. Always wondered why there are not more sport cars like that.
Great video Andrew with TT tinkering - such a nice coupe and design ageing well when a OEM good spec 👏🎯🏆
Thanks Malcolm, yes Mk2 TT is a really nice generation, best of the lot of reliability and quality if materials
Hi just wondering if you have had any water ingress in the boot. I have mk2 tfsi black edition on a 2014. I get water gathering under the battey. Any help or suggestions would be Greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Love the channel 👍
Hi mate. This drove me mad. I adjusted the tailgate striker lower but very slightly. Then the bump stops on the tailgate. Still water gathering around the battery. I park on a dive that slopes towards the rear of the car and realised that the water was making its way there from elsewhere in the car and not the tailgate region. This is because the battery area is the lowest point in the boot. Believe it or not I found that it was coming through via the fuel filler area. I noticed a slight split in the rubber surrounding the fuel filler cap. I applied butyl sealant all around the join of the fuel hose. I used butyl because it doesn't set and it's always malleable so you can finesse over time should you need to. Just be careful filling up as fuel can deteriorate it. I have been careful and had no issues regarding filling up. I have had no water in the boot area since after doing this 2 years ago. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on. Cheers, Richard
@@richardlawrence273 hi mate this is exactly where it was getting in. I stripped the hole cap rubber seal and everything. Wheel off and outer arch cover and Renee rubber seal and eventually found out that the water was still passing coming in via the outer seal of the fuel filler cap. It turns out you would need to by a new cap as the outer o ring /seal isn’t sold separately. I also sealed the outer edge of the fuel filter cap and no more water. 👍
What springs is your car lowered on
Good Evening brilliant video as always thank you very much. Also just wondering how do you get hold of those service sheets please?
Thanks Tristan. Just create an account and log into erwin for whichever VWG brand you want (VW Audi Seat Skoda) and then you can access them for 7 Euros per hour including downloading/printing. I just grab a load of PDFs and save them to my hard drive. It's brilliant!
@@volkswizard thank you very much for replying much appreciated
When your rolling around under your car changing your oil in the rain , even at this age....lol Me too.
Question: 20:48 what is the function of the foam liner? Just to make it as air tight as possible? Seems superfluous.
Think it’s sound deadening
Did you not bleed the clutch? On the TDI you have to remove air box to gain access to clutch bleed screw.
It’s an auto/dsg/s-tronic from memory
What do you think of carbon cleans. I’ve got a mk2 TT tdi 2011 with 65,000 miles on. Running spot on with a stage 1 map. Just wondering if a carbon clean would be of benefit
I always have bled brakes with just a simple pipe that has a non return valve at the end, so can sit in container while i press the brake pedal a few times until it runs clear & no bubbles visible. Also just start at wheel furthest from reservoir nearside rear, finishing with offside front. Don't get why this should alter on different cars, but not sure.
The sequence is probably to do with the ABS pump fluid routing, VWG vary it from car to car so it's best to stick with the official order but ultimately order is just there to do it with least fluid possible. The reason I'd never press pedal for a brake fluid change is that it's been known for seals in the master cylinder to come out of position when the pedal is extended past its normal operating range. Also if you are pressing pedal you can't see what's happening at the nipple unless you have a helper which I don't.