Lots of good info and tips here. I use a lot of them as well. Have to have a little pen vise for 3D printed clean out! For bearing fitment, may try some rolled up sandpaper. Few twists in the bearing race and boom!
Thanks Brian, yeah that's a good tip with the sand paper! I do need to invest in a pin vice for those little drill bits for sure! Thanks for hanging out mate, much appreciated 👏
Amazing build, with an equally great overview. I'm impressed by it all. The design is unique, performance is great, and, while it is a long video, it is so packed full of good info!
Looks great! I wet sanded the body before painting with Behr premium soft Iron metallic. The paint stuck well and even. Smart move de-casing the esc. Thanks for sharing
Wow love the color choice, looks pretty sweet. Appreciate your sharing looks awesome on the rocks, haven’t fiddled with mine yet appreciate the different tips, I’ll be watching out for more until next time peace and chicken grease 😁👍👍😎
Thanks mate! It's a fun build for sure, what color are you planning on? Thanks for hanging out! I've been crazy busy lately and RC has kind of taken a back seat, I'm hoping to get back to making videos soon!
@@havikhobbies Thank you. But your videos are very informative, too - much better than the "normal" micro truck videos of today. BTW ... did remove the tiny parts of RC4WD 1/24 Trailfinder body some time ago (last year, before painting), but guess those videos are too late for you now - was not very difficult ;-)
@@donaldsneffeWell thanks mate I really appreciate the compliment! I was able to remove the small details from the RC 4WD body fairly easily by pushing them out from the inside with a small pick, would be great if they sold the body as an unassembled kit 👍
I'm glad you enjoyed the video enough to subscribe, Thanks! I really do try to present information that is fair, honest and as unbiased as possible. At least that's what I'm aiming for 😂
What chassis does that body from Matt sit on? I just purchased the cab only Willy’s body from him and I’d like to figure out how to mount it to my mofo af build.
The FJ45 is designed to use an Injora LCG chassis setup for regular c10/JLU links. I think it can also work with a Maz Design chassis, but I'm not 100% sure on that one.
@@havikhobbies I would imagine with a little creativity you can make any body fit a chassis. If not though I have an Injora LCG chassis build to toss it on. But I really want to get it to fit the mofo chassis. Matt said the battery mount would be my biggest problem. But I don’t have to run the battery up front.
I think you probably could get it to work, the sweet part of using the Injora chassis is that the included sliders integrate perfectly with the body/chassis its a result nice setup!
Love the rat rod body. Hope someone comes out with a vac formed Lexan version. And yeah, doesn't take much to blow a paint job. From personal and professional experience, on some materials, even detergent like Dawn can leave a residue. Good to follow up with a cleaner that completely flashes off. Acetone, alcohol, etc as they leave nothing. BUT must test to make sure it's compatible and doesn't dissolve your plastic!!! And priming is another good base. Cheap and quick and can save the PITA of re-sanding. IMPO, the claim of primer being included is just marketing wankery.
Yeah I agree wiping the body over with alcohol as a final step before painting is probably good insurance. I would not normally skip the primer, but followed a recommendation on the FJ45 resin body with fantastic results! I figured with the rat rod also being a printed resin body I could repeat my success....I was wrong, and felt like sharing that aspect of the process would save the next person some trouble 👍
I soak my 3D printed bodies I print in in IPA for an hour or two as also helps the finish (in saying that I buy IPA in 60 litre drums as own a wrap and print shop), do prime coats and then paint. But mine are printed in PETG not resin printed.
Yeah ok, so tackyness could be related to post print cleaning? I'm not familiar with the process mate but maybe that's why scrubbing in denatured alcohol seemed to help?
It would appear as though that is the case here. However with the WT Micro which is also a resin printed body there was no such "film" or tacky feeling it was just hard plastic. So I wasn't really anticipating any issues and washed it the same way with soapy water. I had no idea I was supposed to scrub the shit out of the thing with alcohol 🤣 Thanks for the tip and for hanging out mate!
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Lots of good info and tips here. I use a lot of them as well. Have to have a little pen vise for 3D printed clean out! For bearing fitment, may try some rolled up sandpaper. Few twists in the bearing race and boom!
Thanks Brian, yeah that's a good tip with the sand paper! I do need to invest in a pin vice for those little drill bits for sure! Thanks for hanging out mate, much appreciated 👏
As long as the super glue doesn’t get in the head of the screw, it’s a great way to go. I use super thin to do that all the time.
Good tip 👍 yeah I've never used the super glue on motor screws so just stuck to what I always do!
Amazing build, with an equally great overview. I'm impressed by it all. The design is unique, performance is great, and, while it is a long video, it is so packed full of good info!
Wow thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video! There certainly seems to be a lot of interest in this new kit from Mofo RC!
Looks great, bro!
Cheers Mate 🍻
Thank you for sharing and tips. Awesome color combo . Look great on the rocks
Thanks Chris, my original color scheme involed some orange wheels but I like this better! Thanks for hanging out mate!
Sick little rig, I'd love one in 1/10 scale ❤
Thanks mate, haha that would be sick!
Just built mine and I watched your video the whole time 😂 great build man
Very cool! How did it turn out? What color did you go with? Thanks for hanging out mate!
Looks great! I wet sanded the body before painting with Behr premium soft Iron metallic. The paint stuck well and even. Smart move de-casing the esc. Thanks for sharing
Nice, glad you got some nice results! Thanks for watching!
This "Thing" looks gooood ! 👍
Thank you!
Damn bro it came out so sick! Looks amazing in the wild!🤘🏻
Haha! Thanks Eric, yeah she's a head turner that's for sure!
Wow love the color choice, looks pretty sweet. Appreciate your sharing looks awesome on the rocks, haven’t fiddled with mine yet appreciate the different tips, I’ll be watching out for more until next time peace and chicken grease 😁👍👍😎
Thanks Andrew! Yeah I felt like this build deserved to be a little bit wild 👍
Awesome Build❤
Thank you! It's a fun little truck!
I belive my Friend ❤!
Congrats for the Amazing RC 💪🏻🏆👍🏻
Wow, that is sweet, haven’t put mine together yet. Love that color looks great I just subscribed I’ll be watching for more.
Thanks mate! It's a fun build for sure, what color are you planning on? Thanks for hanging out! I've been crazy busy lately and RC has kind of taken a back seat, I'm hoping to get back to making videos soon!
Awesome vid and info. Even more awesome rig 👊
Thanks mate I appreciate that! It's a wild little truck 🤜
Very cool rig!
Thanks, yeah Mofo RC really knocked this one out of the park! Thanks for hanging out mate!
Nice one mate, she turned out sweet
Cheers Mate, yeah its a fun little rig. Pretty good performance too 👍
Very kewl rig man, awesome colour choice too!
Thanks Durp, yeah the colors turned out great!
Why did I miss your supercool channel for such a long time?
Supercool and informative videos, exactly the stuff I like!
(of course subbed now)
Haha, Thanks mate! I've been enjoying your videos for a while 👍 very informative. Thanks for hanging out!
@@havikhobbies Thank you. But your videos are very informative, too - much better than the "normal" micro truck videos of today.
BTW ... did remove the tiny parts of RC4WD 1/24 Trailfinder body some time ago (last year, before painting), but guess those videos are too late for you now - was not very difficult ;-)
@@donaldsneffeWell thanks mate I really appreciate the compliment! I was able to remove the small details from the RC 4WD body fairly easily by pushing them out from the inside with a small pick, would be great if they sold the body as an unassembled kit 👍
I subscribed. Your integrity is ❤
I'm glad you enjoyed the video enough to subscribe, Thanks! I really do try to present information that is fair, honest and as unbiased as possible. At least that's what I'm aiming for 😂
Boy you got some money in that their paint don't you that stuff is expensive killer job bro
Haha about 6-7 bucks a can from my local Walmart. Primer was 6 bucks at the craft shop 👍
What chassis does that body from Matt sit on? I just purchased the cab only Willy’s body from him and I’d like to figure out how to mount it to my mofo af build.
The FJ45 is designed to use an Injora LCG chassis setup for regular c10/JLU links. I think it can also work with a Maz Design chassis, but I'm not 100% sure on that one.
@@havikhobbies I would imagine with a little creativity you can make any body fit a chassis. If not though I have an Injora LCG chassis build to toss it on. But I really want to get it to fit the mofo chassis. Matt said the battery mount would be my biggest problem. But I don’t have to run the battery up front.
I think you probably could get it to work, the sweet part of using the Injora chassis is that the included sliders integrate perfectly with the body/chassis its a result nice setup!
Love the rat rod body. Hope someone comes out with a vac formed Lexan version.
And yeah, doesn't take much to blow a paint job. From personal and professional experience, on some materials, even detergent like Dawn can leave a residue. Good to follow up with a cleaner that completely flashes off. Acetone, alcohol, etc as they leave nothing. BUT must test to make sure it's compatible and doesn't dissolve your plastic!!! And priming is another good base. Cheap and quick and can save the PITA of re-sanding.
IMPO, the claim of primer being included is just marketing wankery.
Yeah I agree wiping the body over with alcohol as a final step before painting is probably good insurance. I would not normally skip the primer, but followed a recommendation on the FJ45 resin body with fantastic results! I figured with the rat rod also being a printed resin body I could repeat my success....I was wrong, and felt like sharing that aspect of the process would save the next person some trouble 👍
@@havikhobbiesYes, for sure! Saving others grief by showing ones mishaps is a great gift to people. :)
need to ipa and crap to get contaminants off
I soak my 3D printed bodies I print in in IPA for an hour or two as also helps the finish (in saying that I buy IPA in 60 litre drums as own a wrap and print shop), do prime coats and then paint. But mine are printed in PETG not resin printed.
Yeah ok, so tackyness could be related to post print cleaning? I'm not familiar with the process mate but maybe that's why scrubbing in denatured alcohol seemed to help?
@havikhobbies when get a new body you need to wash of the film, with some type of degreaser, or a high % rubbing alcohol
It would appear as though that is the case here. However with the WT Micro which is also a resin printed body there was no such "film" or tacky feeling it was just hard plastic. So I wasn't really anticipating any issues and washed it the same way with soapy water. I had no idea I was supposed to scrub the shit out of the thing with alcohol 🤣 Thanks for the tip and for hanging out mate!