I love that you made this video. I find that there isn't a lot of discussion/videos on YT regarding ski bindings as compared to the actual skis or even ski boots. Particularly in the Backcountry/Alpine Touring space it can be difficult to find good information. A detailed video like this goes a long way towards educating new or prospective backcountry skiers and I'm sure those with more experience can find something useful in here as well. Thanks for making and uploading this video.
31k+ views on a super in-depth review from a trusted subject matter expert with huge following. All for the cost of some free gear. Deal of the century for ATK!
I fitted these bindings to my 4Frnt Ravens last season and I fully concur. They’re epic! I fitted the toe shims because ultimately they’re for touring so more level comfort and I’m also older so who am I kidding trying to be ‘aggressive’ 😂. For clearing snow and ice out of them I use an MSR pot/pan scraper. It’s palm size, flat, costs about a tenner and you don’t notice it in your pocket. It worked on my Ions and Zeds and works on these too. See you around Cham’ 🤙🏻😎
This was fantastic, Dave - I learned a lot. Great tip on removing ice from the front pin holes. And I wish more toe pieces had the 'No Snow' feature. Thanks!!
what an amazing Video this is!! Thank you so much for your effort in this Videos😍 i‘m currently searching for a new touring setup - and not quite sure about which atk binding to get… is there a chance we could get a video on the different kind of ATK bindings and when to use which? Cheers!
It would be a pretty big video! Reach out to the guys at ATK and they can advise you. My top picks are the raider series or the rt 11 evo (ski Alper binding of the year 2025)
@@DaveSearlethanks! In your eyes, are the extra 25g per binding worth the Upgrade in downhill Performance from the Raider 13 to the Freeraider 15 ? Thanks a lot!🤗🤗
I got the Raider 12s last season, and was very impressed vs others I've tried before. Feeling slight fomo on the new evos, but i expect to stay on these for quite a few seasons. Got em on a couple pairs of skis now (Also you still don't have snow over there? I probed 170cm while skiing in BC, Canada last weekend 😁. I'm often feeling the lack of infrastructure/access we have vs the alps so gotta take the wins where they come)
@@DaveSearle Dave, would you know by any chance if the drill hole distances are compatible with the marker Alpinist, or sufficiently different for safe redrilling?
Random opinion: it's not very good. It's hard to justify an overpriced simple paulownia core/carbon weave combo for that high of a price it still comes in as heavy as 1550g in a 184cm. There's pure Poplar core skis that are almost that weight and/or hybrid cores that ski far better if the snow is anything but pristine which is what the La Machine 2's absolutely require. Spent a season on them and sold them.
Ace video Dave, thanks so much. Love how indepth you go! Would you be happy skiing these all day on piste? I know they'll not be as safe as an alpine binding as designed for a different purpose, but just curious after your comment of them being the perfect do it all binding. Gonna stick some on a set of echos so well excited!
I would LOVE to ski pin bindings for the weight savings, but I’m the kind of person who wants to build jumps in the backcountry and I really love all my cruciate ligaments so I take the weight penalty and use Salomon SHIFTs.
I think if you’re crashing a lot then that makes sense. I feel very confident that these will come off when I need them too though. My ligaments feel safe!
Great explanatory video! What I'd have liked a bit more dwelling into the use of those distance or heel-plate height adjustment shims in terms of a concrete example. At least 4 now I've got a rough idea of what they're good for. BTW: U live in Germany - where are you going to ski? Maybe we could have an off-slope tour together... 😊
Great video! I've heard rumours that the length of the front lever isn't so friendly towards bulky toeboxes like on the mindbender boot - are these valid or do they work well with any boot with tech inserts?
Awesome explanation. As i think of a lighter setup as my Agent 3 i was wondering what you think of the La Machine mini with a Raider 13 evo as a setup for Steep Terrain (colouirs)? Would this also work in harsher or hard conditions?
Maybe a dumb question, I thought there is just a one way to install spacer under the heel. Just screw it under the brake pad tightly. Are there more plates coming with the binding that you can put under the spacer to make it higher? And finally, you should be able to pull the paper between the boot and the spacer when the boot is clipped in both front and back but with nobody standing in that right? 😅
Hi Dave. With skimo bindings with brakes (no leash) there is the risk to loose your ski when skiing in powder if you fall and ski detaches from your boot (and ski sinks inside the powder snow) . Do you have a tip to minimize that risk? Thanks.
Brilliant vid Dave I loved all the technical info. I've just gone over to ATK Binding from Shift , all skis previously mounted with quiver killers. I've got the 13s on Scott Superglide 95s but have some heavier and wilder skis that these 15s would suit . Are the 15 evos a more heavy duty binding compared to the 13 evos ? I have spacers. I don't intend to go as high as 13 Din Are the mounting points the same ? Could I use quiver killer inserts on the ATKs for the 13 & 15 ?
The 13 and 15 have the same mounting pattern. The only difference is the release value and that they come with the Freeride spacer stock. You can always buy that aftermarket to upgrade the r13
Would you recommend it over a shift for a 50/50 ski on a QST106 or Echo> at what point do you feel the weight benefit of shift for increased safety is worth it?
Hi Dave, I had the following situation last season. When I twisted the heel piece around the go into downhill mode my spring shot out. I basically lost the spring and the cap. This was the cap where also the release value is adjusted. Do you know what it may have caused this? I am now afraid, that it might happen again. Thank you!
Hi Dave! great video, very informative. Would there be any benefit on getting the Freerider 15 evo VS the Rider 13 evo; if my DIN is around 10 and can add the spacer? i guess im mostly asking because i can get the 13 significantly cheaper
Your din on alpine boots might be 10 but your release value on the raider it might be 12 or possibly 13…that might be a reason to go for the 15 but I would say that it sounds like the 13 is fine for you.
@@DaveSearle right. hadn't considered that. i am a rather beefy dude (186cm, 100kg) so i guess the extra cash is probably worth it. Thanks a lot for taking the time to give me your thoughts
Great video Dave! I enjoy it a lot to see all ATK binding details on this specific model. I am set up in the Pyrenees and normally we go up (from car park) to reach a peak and go down back. I was thinking to get ATK RT 11 EVO to get benefit of the EVO system and because it is more touring than freeride. Do you think is it a good selection? Thanks!
Hi Dave, thank you very much for your explanations. I am really excited for this combination...Faction La Machine Massive and ATK Freeraider. What are your honest opinion about this Ski? For sure I am not a Pro like you but I am a good skier and looking for a big, light and playful ski for ski touring. Can you recommend the ski and what is your mounting position for the ATK binding on it? I am looking forward for your honest opinion! :) Flo
Hi Flo, I have so much fun on that ski I think it’s my favourite setup. The ski is a little tricky in icey bumps but who has fun in that anyway? It’s mega surfy and playful in the soft stuff and is great when things get tight. Ideal combo with the freeraider. Faction don’t pay me so I hope you can see this is my honest opinion
You should 100% get a shop to mount these or at least get them to drill the holes using the ATK jig. I really can’t recommend using a paper jig for any tech binding as any minor discrepancy in mounting will result in the binding not functioning properly as the pins will be loaded weirdly.
Thanks for the super comprehensive video. I myself have toured the last season on a FR15 binding, was super satisfied and it’s good to know what has changed in 24/25 model. Just got myself some real powder skis that are a bit heavier (around 2100g per ski) and am stuck between choices of bindings for it. Do you think the FR15 can handle them? ATK only recommends them for skis weighing below 2000g
I have some Faction Dancer 4 which are 2100g and I’m probably going to chuck a set of Cast freetour 2.0 on them. That’s mostly because I want to ski my Nordic’s dobermans with them!
hm, but if you remove the front plate from under your binding it basically means destroying the holes, right? unless you use the inserts. And the same applies to the freeride insert and the back alu plate? As for clipping in, I don't see what they really did differently? What you show seems same as previous ATK and most other brands, still already R12 are great bindings and those surely expand further toward freetouring.
No you can carefully remove and reinstall bindings in the same holes. It’s not recommended to do it a lot but as longs as they bite well when they go back in. I agree most brands are easy to step in but some are still tricky.
Where to start! The ion does not have a release value at the toe. It doesn’t have a snow free toe design either so icing could occur. It’s heavier than this binding by 180g. It’s set at a fairly flat ramp angle so if you upright touring boots there is no way to get the boot more forward into a more agressive ski stance. It doesn’t have a Freeride spacer so you have torsional twisting at the pins. It doesn’t have heel elasticity either. The g3 ion was a great binding 8-9 years ago when it won all its awards but the ATK freeraider 15 evo is now far superior. Hope that helps!
Do you not ski with leashes on the Kuluar? Noticed no leashes/brakes when you showed it. Have been contemplating this move for my pow skis as I find brakes less effective than one would hope and leashes too fiddly.
Why do you have the Kuluar? Like you said, stepping in is harder, it doesn’t have the newer closed toe piece design. It also creates a high ramp angle. Haute Route Plus is similar weight, nice easy to step and easy to turn heels, and now has the new toe piece design too.
I wanted to try it out and at the time when I got it didn’t realise how much harder it is to step in and also it predates the lighter snow free bindings that ATK make.
My Scarpa Maestrale RS actually presses with the sole against the spacer - so, I guess I should lower that spacer. How can I do that as I see there are no shims (pre-installed) to remove? Does that mean I'm already at the lowewst possible shim's height?... Great video and thank you.
@gioradetsky9857 options are take off the Freeride spacer, trim some rubber off the bottom of the sole, buy new boots or live with it. I can’t help with the choice I’m afraid!
@@DaveSearle Luckily it does work now... I was placing the paper sheet wrongly - beneath the heel plate... If I place it above it, in line with the top edges of the spacer, I can pull the paper sheet OK. Thanks again.
I have a set of these bindings and boots, and I noticed a strange issue with their combination. When the skis are placed on a stand (with the brakes fully deployed), the brake ends up catching on the heel of the boot, preventing the brake from being pressed down. I noticed that in this video, the author intentionally places the skis on the table when pressing down the brake, and I wonder if it’s for the same reason. Indeed, if the brake is partially retracted (for example, when placed on the ground and pushed upward slightly by the surface), all brake functions work as expected. However, I am unsure whether it would be easy to press down the brake on soft snow, where the brake might not have enough support. Could this be an issue in such conditions?
Hello dave. What position you mount the binding in faction la machine 2 and 4, i thinking to buy this faction skis and i am between new school or progresive. What is your experience. Thanks
Another question - regarding the release values "DIN". The ski-man who set up my ATK on Blizzard skis suggested values of 8 for vertical as well as lateral releases (i.e., the heel part), but a value of 7 for the front piece. I am not arguing about the absolute values, but the DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BACK AND FRONT. Is this customary, and what would be the rationale for that? Thanks again and regards.
Here is the official word from ATK - VERY IMPORTANT: never ever ski the binding with a different toe - heel release value. All the systems in the bindings must be adjusted at the same values, if it’s 13 it must be 13 for both the lateral release values (the one in the heel piece and the one in the toe piece) and the vertical release value on the heel piece.
@@DaveSearle They also told me so on the phone. Do not understand how a reputable (he is) ski man can make such a sugestion. I'll set them all at same value, so.
To close the circle... Given the top apps for setting DINs suggest, in my personal case, values at 7.5, do you agree it makes sense for me to go for 8 on the ATK Evo (taking into account that ski-alp bindings are not TUV-certified...)
I must be a nerd because I sat through that whole thing... Started off kind of chatty but that may be for your regular viewers. This being my first time watching I nearly turned it off. So glad I didn't. Those will be my future bindings.
Yes it has a release value at the toe. (It’s not DIN though as that pertains to plastic on plastic) very nice to be able to set both the back and front though.
Great video! I figured out how to adjust the DIN on the heel piece, both rotational and vertical release adjustments. But I'm not sure I understand the toe piece, I see the front screw allows you to set it to soft, mid, or hard. Is there an actual DIN value? Thanks!
Sorry to bother you again... Something I had already noticed is the difficulty in reading the "DIN" values, especially on the toe piece. The tiny window is definitely too small and the digits printed underneath follow suit - moreover, in some cases half of the print is outside the window's contour so you cannot be sure about what number are you seeing. .Not only that, it seems that passing from e.g. value 7 to 8 requires much more screwing than shifting on other couples of digits. Is this "variability" normal?. When I think I see number 8, my appropriate value, I feel unsure that it's really 8. Are we sure about the gauge system even despite these quirks? Thanks again.
... Please disregard this last question - I later realized that 7 and 8 are not "glued" to each other but that you have to keep screwing in til the digit 8 comes "fully" into view, and ditto for any other coupe of consecutive numbers. I think the ski man who sold me and mounted these bindings should have showed me then these few "tricks", but he did not.... May be in the hope I will keep going back to him and thus, eventually, buy some more stuff?🤣
Too bad that they require turning the heel. The Front12 is a much better binding in my view. Hopefully they bring back a Front15 EVO. Also in the manual it states that the freeride spacer can have up to one mm of pretention to the boot sole. But sounds a bit much in my view to I set them up with less but still couldn't do the paper test.
Great video! But still, if you are somewhat into tech bindings, and you don’t already know basically every letter and number of this video, you must have been living under a rock for the last five years. I was hoping for more detail, like really deep dive into the differences between u-springs and fully functional heels, elasticity curves and characters compared to the competition, what has changed in the last 2-3 generations of Freeraiders, more about the difference to the lower end Crest series and the lighter HR options and so on. Also the toe release adjustment and how that works in technical details. This was as I said a very nice video, but it was just straight up standard info.
I tend to disagree…Unfortunately the level of detail you are describing would go over the head of 99.999% of skiers. Sorry you were disappointed but there is a limit to what people will sit through and I’m not psyched to spend hours diving into those topics. If you are interested, ATK will indulge you with the specs!
@@DaveSearle You are right of course, but still, never under estimate the curiosity of the gear nerds of skiing :) There are hundreds of basic videos, but almost no detailed ones. It would be a way to stand out. Most of those topics you can probably pull right out of your back pocket. ATK are pretty much unique in the 300 gram segment in how they offer fully functional heel pieces and if more customers understood the difference, ATK would dominate even more. The safety concern with U-springs and their sensitivity to worn heel tech inserts is the most important factor for me to go ATK instead of Salomon MTN or any of the Dynafit offerings.
Omg this guy..! Thanks dave for being so polite but im sure he wanted to say: shut up martin! "Blabla must be living under a rock" "i want so see curves" Jesus bro.. if you want in depth information then just google it. There are 150 coments and bet everyone is positive because this is an awesome video, but there is always that one guy. Go shoot your arrows and keep behaving like you know everything, bet youre fun!
I use atk for more than 10 years...and yeah, they have good and prizey products...but not enough quiality for this prize rate and not good aftermarket standarts. i have the freerider 14 evo and in 2 seassons the sliders and the freerader spacers of my 2 skis broke...so really poor quality for a 600€ binding..but worse, cant be replace by myself so need to send to a distributor and the replacement its 70€ more...not fun and not fair for a 75k skier that even having a "freeride binding" didnt jump at all:) Another improvement will be brakes...are too soft, thin and short for the skis we are talking about...just falling in alps and see my ski with the brake released and in soft snow cant stop after 300m sliding...happy to my partner can catch it before go straigh into a crevasse... So i vote for a much stronger brake spring, longer pauls, and bigger and rugered plastic brake ends in my opinion. Thanks for your channel
The problem with bigger is that it’s heavier and this type of binding still needs to be light. No brakes really work in powder in my experience… I’m sorry to hear about the service I’ve always had great service and I’m sure they will take on the feedback!
I think if you are only ever downhill free riding then something like a look pivot would be better but there are no legitimate reasons you can’t take this binding anywhere that skis have already been.
Movie about bindings, but no bindings in video. Why u put camera so far from ski and bindings, where is close-up ?) Info job 11/10 Cameramen job 3/10 ))
Tha is for the feedback. I’m not a camera man so I do the best I can as a one man band. Most people found it fine but I’m always looking for ways to improve.
ATK should def pay you for this video. It's by far the most comprehensive explanation of the binding.
I'll let them know!
@@DaveSearle let them know I agree!
I agree, this is the best video on the internet for this binding. Many shops that are installing these don't know how to properly set them up.
@ yeah it’s true!
The people DO want to see the kitty cat! 😅
I know that’s why I kept that part in. Maybe I’ll do a review video of him.
@@DaveSearleThe only cat you'll ever need?
BUILD quality and materials in ATK are top-notch! Functionality is superb.
👊
I love that you made this video. I find that there isn't a lot of discussion/videos on YT regarding ski bindings as compared to the actual skis or even ski boots. Particularly in the Backcountry/Alpine Touring space it can be difficult to find good information. A detailed video like this goes a long way towards educating new or prospective backcountry skiers and I'm sure those with more experience can find something useful in here as well. Thanks for making and uploading this video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
31k+ views on a super in-depth review from a trusted subject matter expert with huge following. All for the cost of some free gear. Deal of the century for ATK!
😆🙌
Dave erklärt die Bindung wirklich hervorragend in allen spezifischen Details. TOP👌
Thanks!
I fitted these bindings to my 4Frnt Ravens last season and I fully concur. They’re epic! I fitted the toe shims because ultimately they’re for touring so more level comfort and I’m also older so who am I kidding trying to be ‘aggressive’ 😂. For clearing snow and ice out of them I use an MSR pot/pan scraper. It’s palm size, flat, costs about a tenner and you don’t notice it in your pocket. It worked on my Ions and Zeds and works on these too.
See you around Cham’ 🤙🏻😎
TH-cam used to only be about “passion” but now everyone wants to get paid. Wish everyone had your mindset. That’s true passion.
Don’t get me wrong, it would be great to be paid! Haha
The best ATK binding video out there
Thanks!
Mounted these last season. Most easy to use, no fuss solid touring binding ever!
Excellent igh quality video... probably one of the best executed and informative videos I have seen... Well done. Subscribed!!
Glad you liked it!
Ive gotten about 40 days on my pair of FR with the spacer and it has completely changed my trust in pin bindings
Nice!👍
This was fantastic, Dave - I learned a lot. Great tip on removing ice from the front pin holes. And I wish more toe pieces had the 'No Snow' feature. Thanks!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
i have the first atk freeraider on a massive powder gun and i am close to 100kg. it delivers constantly. amazing quality
🙌
Nice one Dave. I'm on the ATK Crest and love it !
Nice! good choice.
Love the tips on safely stepping in
🙌
I would like to see a full setup video of one of these Bindings on a new Ski. This wold be really helpful to see if the Binding is set up correctly.
The Full setup requires a Ski Jig for making the holes that I don't have unfortunately.
yes to all of this.
👊
Good explanation 👍
Great video Dave. Rocking the gringo ‘tache as well. 🤘
Oh yeah! 🙌
Instead of keeping special shims in various thicknesses on hand to check binding gaps, just use something you already own: a set of metric Allen keys.
Great tip. 👊
what an amazing Video this is!! Thank you so much for your effort in this Videos😍
i‘m currently searching for a new touring setup - and not quite sure about which atk binding to get… is there a chance we could get a video on the different kind of ATK bindings and when to use which?
Cheers!
It would be a pretty big video! Reach out to the guys at ATK and they can advise you. My top picks are the raider series or the rt 11 evo (ski Alper binding of the year 2025)
@@DaveSearlethanks! In your eyes, are the extra 25g per binding worth the Upgrade in downhill Performance from the Raider 13 to the Freeraider 15 ?
Thanks a lot!🤗🤗
Yes. The Freeride spacer makes a big difference for me.
interesting, just recently saw Nikolai talked a mouthful of the new ATK. What a coincidence :) They know their job obviously
I wonder if he gets paid?
again, awesome content!
Glad you enjoy it!
Own a pair of these and another Kuluar one for lighter touring skis, they are amazing. It's expensive, but I'm sold to ATK.
Couldn't agree more!
I got the Raider 12s last season, and was very impressed vs others I've tried before. Feeling slight fomo on the new evos, but i expect to stay on these for quite a few seasons. Got em on a couple pairs of skis now
(Also you still don't have snow over there? I probed 170cm while skiing in BC, Canada last weekend 😁. I'm often feeling the lack of infrastructure/access we have vs the alps so gotta take the wins where they come)
Well done Video.
I may go for this one should I replace the Marker Alpinist
If I had to choose one binding for the rest of time it would be this.
@@DaveSearle Dave, would you know by any chance if the drill hole distances are compatible with the marker Alpinist, or sufficiently different for safe redrilling?
@@mathiasbucher6102 I don't know sorry. Normally your local ski shop can tell you. You might have to mount + or -1cm
Hi! Could You please make a quick review of the Faction La Machine 2 for us?
Random opinion: it's not very good. It's hard to justify an overpriced simple paulownia core/carbon weave combo for that high of a price it still comes in as heavy as 1550g in a 184cm. There's pure Poplar core skis that are almost that weight and/or hybrid cores that ski far better if the snow is anything but pristine which is what the La Machine 2's absolutely require. Spent a season on them and sold them.
Would also like to see a la machine video!
Ace video Dave, thanks so much. Love how indepth you go! Would you be happy skiing these all day on piste? I know they'll not be as safe as an alpine binding as designed for a different purpose, but just curious after your comment of them being the perfect do it all binding. Gonna stick some on a set of echos so well excited!
Absolutely. For me this is the perfect binding for a one ski quiver.
I would LOVE to ski pin bindings for the weight savings, but I’m the kind of person who wants to build jumps in the backcountry and I really love all my cruciate ligaments so I take the weight penalty and use Salomon SHIFTs.
I think if you’re crashing a lot then that makes sense. I feel very confident that these will come off when I need them too though. My ligaments feel safe!
Great explanatory video!
What I'd have liked a bit more dwelling into the use of those distance or heel-plate height adjustment shims in terms of a concrete example.
At least 4 now I've got a rough idea of what they're good for.
BTW: U live in Germany - where are you going to ski? Maybe we could have an off-slope tour together... 😊
I live in Chamonix, not Germany.
@DaveSearle I see. Watched some more videos of yours.
Excellent information.
Glad it was helpful!
Really interesting - thanks!
🙌
Hey Dave great video- where do you like to set that binding on the LaMachine 4. Recommended ? For touring and powder as priority
Great video! I've heard rumours that the length of the front lever isn't so friendly towards bulky toeboxes like on the mindbender boot - are these valid or do they work well with any boot with tech inserts?
I’ve not heard that but the hivemind might be able to answer it!
so If you don't have the Riade Research thing on your zero G it might be nice to not have the toe riser plate so you are more forward?
Awesome explanation. As i think of a lighter setup as my Agent 3 i was wondering what you think of the La Machine mini with a Raider 13 evo as a setup for Steep Terrain (colouirs)? Would this also work in harsher or hard conditions?
i wish you would've talked about the adjustability in the toe. it was the biggest reason I went for the EVO instead of the old raider design
The release value adjustment?
Looks like this might work w my R12’s, ATK AL09 FREERIDE SPACERS
Maybe a dumb question, I thought there is just a one way to install spacer under the heel. Just screw it under the brake pad tightly. Are there more plates coming with the binding that you can put under the spacer to make it higher? And finally, you should be able to pull the paper between the boot and the spacer when the boot is clipped in both front and back but with nobody standing in that right? 😅
What did you mount your agent 3 at ?
Hi Dave. With skimo bindings with brakes (no leash) there is the risk to loose your ski when skiing in powder if you fall and ski detaches from your boot (and ski sinks inside the powder snow) . Do you have a tip to minimize that risk? Thanks.
I mean the obvious tip is to avoid loosing it in the first place… correct release value, and skiing conservatively!
Brilliant vid Dave I loved all the technical info.
I've just gone over to ATK Binding from Shift , all skis previously mounted with quiver killers.
I've got the 13s on Scott Superglide 95s but have some heavier and wilder skis that these 15s would suit .
Are the 15 evos a more heavy duty binding compared to the 13 evos ? I have spacers.
I don't intend to go as high as 13 Din Are the mounting points the same ?
Could I use quiver killer inserts on the ATKs for the 13 & 15 ?
The 13 and 15 have the same mounting pattern. The only difference is the release value and that they come with the Freeride spacer stock. You can always buy that aftermarket to upgrade the r13
Thanks Dave.
I'll stick with my Evo 13s then with spacers & get quiver killers installed on my other skis
Would you recommend it over a shift for a 50/50 ski on a QST106 or Echo> at what point do you feel the weight benefit of shift for increased safety is worth it?
Hi Dave. A great video. Will the bindings release if you take a fall?
As long as they are set up correctly yes!
@ thanks for that
Hi Dave, I had the following situation last season. When I twisted the heel piece around the go into downhill mode my spring shot out. I basically lost the spring and the cap. This was the cap where also the release value is adjusted. Do you know what it may have caused this? I am now afraid, that it might happen again. Thank you!
Best to ask ATK about this!
What an instant classic. Best movies are the ones that inspire, and I’m fired up to get bucking
Hi Dave! great video, very informative. Would there be any benefit on getting the Freerider 15 evo VS the Rider 13 evo; if my DIN is around 10 and can add the spacer? i guess im mostly asking because i can get the 13 significantly cheaper
Your din on alpine boots might be 10 but your release value on the raider it might be 12 or possibly 13…that might be a reason to go for the 15 but I would say that it sounds like the 13 is fine for you.
@@DaveSearle right. hadn't considered that. i am a rather beefy dude (186cm, 100kg) so i guess the extra cash is probably worth it. Thanks a lot for taking the time to give me your thoughts
Quick question: Any issues that you see running this binding on a wide (110 - 116mm) ski?
Using them on a 116jj ul for 2nd season.. theyre perfect!
It’s not ideal if you are doing lots of hard snow with a ski that wide but for powder skiing it’s a good option.
Great video Dave! I enjoy it a lot to see all ATK binding details on this specific model. I am set up in the Pyrenees and normally we go up (from car park) to reach a peak and go down back. I was thinking to get ATK RT 11 EVO to get benefit of the EVO system and because it is more touring than freeride. Do you think is it a good selection? Thanks!
Yeah that sounds like a good plan! That’s what I would do
Any thoughts on the new ATK HY?
Unfortunately I’ve got the same info as most other people. Yet to have it in my hands!
What do you think of the new ATK Hy?
Not seen it or had my hands on it yet so I don’t know!
Hi Dave,
thank you very much for your explanations. I am really excited for this combination...Faction La Machine Massive and ATK Freeraider.
What are your honest opinion about this Ski?
For sure I am not a Pro like you but I am a good skier and looking for a big, light and playful ski for ski touring.
Can you recommend the ski and what is your mounting position for the ATK binding on it?
I am looking forward for your honest opinion! :)
Flo
Hi Flo, I have so much fun on that ski I think it’s my favourite setup. The ski is a little tricky in icey bumps but who has fun in that anyway? It’s mega surfy and playful in the soft stuff and is great when things get tight. Ideal combo with the freeraider. Faction don’t pay me so I hope you can see this is my honest opinion
@ thank you very much for your response! ✌️
Do you have the patterns to correctly fit these bindings on the ski please ?
You should 100% get a shop to mount these or at least get them to drill the holes using the ATK jig. I really can’t recommend using a paper jig for any tech binding as any minor discrepancy in mounting will result in the binding not functioning properly as the pins will be loaded weirdly.
Question. If your running a Roxa R3 130 and have a race minded ski style would you recommend the toe spacer or not
I'd probably start with it as that seems to be more of a freeride boot than a touring boot.
@ thank you!
Thanks for the super comprehensive video. I myself have toured the last season on a FR15 binding, was super satisfied and it’s good to know what has changed in 24/25 model.
Just got myself some real powder skis that are a bit heavier (around 2100g per ski) and am stuck between choices of bindings for it. Do you think the FR15 can handle them? ATK only recommends them for skis weighing below 2000g
I have some Faction Dancer 4 which are 2100g and I’m probably going to chuck a set of Cast freetour 2.0 on them. That’s mostly because I want to ski my Nordic’s dobermans with them!
@ I see, so if hypothetically the Dobermanns have pin inserts, you would mount the Dancers with ATKs as well. Thanks!
Doesn't that freeride spacer inhibit the sideways release of the rear binding, especially if the ski is compressed against the boot heel?
It’s on a slider to help with release. Normally you don’t want the ski coming off when it’s under compression (mid way through the turn)
hm, but if you remove the front plate from under your binding it basically means destroying the holes, right? unless you use the inserts. And the same applies to the freeride insert and the back alu plate? As for clipping in, I don't see what they really did differently? What you show seems same as previous ATK and most other brands, still already R12 are great bindings and those surely expand further toward freetouring.
No you can carefully remove and reinstall bindings in the same holes. It’s not recommended to do it a lot but as longs as they bite well when they go back in. I agree most brands are easy to step in but some are still tricky.
So what are some differences between the G3 ions and ATK bindings?
Where to start! The ion does not have a release value at the toe. It doesn’t have a snow free toe design either so icing could occur. It’s heavier than this binding by 180g. It’s set at a fairly flat ramp angle so if you upright touring boots there is no way to get the boot more forward into a more agressive ski stance. It doesn’t have a Freeride spacer so you have torsional twisting at the pins. It doesn’t have heel elasticity either. The g3 ion was a great binding 8-9 years ago when it won all its awards but the ATK freeraider 15 evo is now far superior. Hope that helps!
Do you not ski with leashes on the Kuluar? Noticed no leashes/brakes when you showed it. Have been contemplating this move for my pow skis as I find brakes less effective than one would hope and leashes too fiddly.
Never leashes for me. I really dislike them. Fiddly and also not good in an avalanche.
Why do you have the Kuluar? Like you said, stepping in is harder, it doesn’t have the newer closed toe piece design. It also creates a high ramp angle. Haute Route Plus is similar weight, nice easy to step and easy to turn heels, and now has the new toe piece design too.
I wanted to try it out and at the time when I got it didn’t realise how much harder it is to step in and also it predates the lighter snow free bindings that ATK make.
@@DaveSearle I also just realised you have the high release value bindings, and the Haute Route only goes to 10.
My Scarpa Maestrale RS actually presses with the sole against the spacer - so, I guess I should lower that spacer. How can I do that as I see there are no shims (pre-installed) to remove? Does that mean I'm already at the lowewst possible shim's height?... Great video and thank you.
It come stock with no spacers so you won’t be able to lower it more… just make sure you can pull a piece of paper out otherwise it might be too tight.
@@DaveSearle Cannot pull it out... what can I do, if anything. Thanks again Dave.
@gioradetsky9857 options are take off the Freeride spacer, trim some rubber off the bottom of the sole, buy new boots or live with it. I can’t help with the choice I’m afraid!
@@DaveSearle Luckily it does work now... I was placing the paper sheet wrongly - beneath the heel plate... If I place it above it, in line with the top edges of the spacer, I can pull the paper sheet OK. Thanks again.
Would you trust the ATK 15 for in bounds and slack country use?
I do for sure!
I have a set of these bindings and boots, and I noticed a strange issue with their combination. When the skis are placed on a stand (with the brakes fully deployed), the brake ends up catching on the heel of the boot, preventing the brake from being pressed down.
I noticed that in this video, the author intentionally places the skis on the table when pressing down the brake, and I wonder if it’s for the same reason. Indeed, if the brake is partially retracted (for example, when placed on the ground and pushed upward slightly by the surface), all brake functions work as expected.
However, I am unsure whether it would be easy to press down the brake on soft snow, where the brake might not have enough support. Could this be an issue in such conditions?
Yeah that’s totally normal. Same with any ski brake really. It’s also not a problem in deep snow, that I’ve found.
Would you do something this beefy on a narrower (90) ski?
I’ve got a raider 13 on my 86mm ski. The Freeride spacer doesn’t work on skis sub 95mm. That’s an important point I forgot to mention!
@ ohh good to know. Was looking at the RT EVO as well for a smaller ski with a diff mount pattern.
Hello dave. What position you mount the binding in faction la machine 2 and 4, i thinking to buy this faction skis and i am between new school or progresive. What is your experience. Thanks
I’m progressive for both and it feels good for me.
Another question - regarding the release values "DIN". The ski-man who set up my ATK on Blizzard skis suggested values of 8 for vertical as well as lateral releases (i.e., the heel part), but a value of 7 for the front piece. I am not arguing about the absolute values, but the DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BACK AND FRONT. Is this customary, and what would be the rationale for that? Thanks again and regards.
Here is the official word from ATK - VERY IMPORTANT: never ever ski the binding with a different toe - heel release value. All the systems in the bindings must be adjusted at the same values, if it’s 13 it must be 13 for both the lateral release values (the one in the heel piece and the one in the toe piece) and the vertical release value on the heel piece.
@@DaveSearle They also told me so on the phone. Do not understand how a reputable (he is) ski man can make such a sugestion. I'll set them all at same value, so.
To close the circle... Given the top apps for setting DINs suggest, in my personal case, values at 7.5, do you agree it makes sense for me to go for 8 on the ATK Evo (taking into account that ski-alp bindings are not TUV-certified...)
@gioradetsky9857 sounds like 8 is a good starting point.
Good. Thanks and good Cham.
Would you say the evo 13 is enough and the machine mega stable enough for 82kg ?
It depends how you ski! I could be just fine or it could be pushing it.
@ thanks, fast but not like Mr Schirmer
I must be a nerd because I sat through that whole thing...
Started off kind of chatty but that may be for your regular viewers. This being my first time watching I nearly turned it off. So glad I didn't.
Those will be my future bindings.
Thanks for the feedback. I find it’s good to set the scene for new comers!
And the toe piece can have a DIN set unlike the other light weight tech bindings
Yes it has a release value at the toe. (It’s not DIN though as that pertains to plastic on plastic) very nice to be able to set both the back and front though.
Great video! I figured out how to adjust the DIN on the heel piece, both rotational and vertical release adjustments. But I'm not sure I understand the toe piece, I see the front screw allows you to set it to soft, mid, or hard. Is there an actual DIN value? Thanks!
Sorry to bother you again... Something I had already noticed is the difficulty in reading the "DIN" values, especially on the toe piece. The tiny window is definitely too small and the digits printed underneath follow suit - moreover, in some cases half of the print is outside the window's contour so you cannot be sure about what number are you seeing. .Not only that, it seems that passing from e.g. value 7 to 8 requires much more screwing than shifting on other couples of digits. Is this "variability" normal?. When I think I see number 8, my appropriate value, I feel unsure that it's really 8. Are we sure about the gauge system even despite these quirks? Thanks again.
... Please disregard this last question - I later realized that 7 and 8 are not "glued" to each other but that you have to keep screwing in til the digit 8 comes "fully" into view, and ditto for any other coupe of consecutive numbers. I think the ski man who sold me and mounted these bindings should have showed me then these few "tricks", but he did not.... May be in the hope I will keep going back to him and thus, eventually, buy some more stuff?🤣
Too bad that they require turning the heel. The Front12 is a much better binding in my view. Hopefully they bring back a Front15 EVO.
Also in the manual it states that the freeride spacer can have up to one mm of pretention to the boot sole. But sounds a bit much in my view to I set them up with less but still couldn't do the paper test.
0:20 talk for yourself, leave the cat! ^^
Haha
Great video! But still, if you are somewhat into tech bindings, and you don’t already know basically every letter and number of this video, you must have been living under a rock for the last five years. I was hoping for more detail, like really deep dive into the differences between u-springs and fully functional heels, elasticity curves and characters compared to the competition, what has changed in the last 2-3 generations of Freeraiders, more about the difference to the lower end Crest series and the lighter HR options and so on. Also the toe release adjustment and how that works in technical details. This was as I said a very nice video, but it was just straight up standard info.
I tend to disagree…Unfortunately the level of detail you are describing would go over the head of 99.999% of skiers. Sorry you were disappointed but there is a limit to what people will sit through and I’m not psyched to spend hours diving into those topics. If you are interested, ATK will indulge you with the specs!
@@DaveSearle You are right of course, but still, never under estimate the curiosity of the gear nerds of skiing :) There are hundreds of basic videos, but almost no detailed ones. It would be a way to stand out.
Most of those topics you can probably pull right out of your back pocket. ATK are pretty much unique in the 300 gram segment in how they offer fully functional heel pieces and if more customers understood the difference, ATK would dominate even more. The safety concern with U-springs and their sensitivity to worn heel tech inserts is the most important factor for me to go ATK instead of Salomon MTN or any of the Dynafit offerings.
Omg this guy..! Thanks dave for being so polite but im sure he wanted to say: shut up martin!
"Blabla must be living under a rock" "i want so see curves"
Jesus bro.. if you want in depth information then just google it.
There are 150 coments and bet everyone is positive because this is an awesome video, but there is always that one guy.
Go shoot your arrows and keep behaving like you know everything, bet youre fun!
I use atk for more than 10 years...and yeah, they have good and prizey products...but not enough quiality for this prize rate and not good aftermarket standarts.
i have the freerider 14 evo and in 2 seassons the sliders and the freerader spacers of my 2 skis broke...so really poor quality for a 600€ binding..but worse, cant be replace by myself so need to send to a distributor and the replacement its 70€ more...not fun and not fair for a 75k skier that even having a "freeride binding" didnt jump at all:)
Another improvement will be brakes...are too soft, thin and short for the skis we are talking about...just falling in alps and see my ski with the brake released and in soft snow cant stop after 300m sliding...happy to my partner can catch it before go straigh into a crevasse... So i vote for a much stronger brake spring, longer pauls, and bigger and rugered plastic brake ends in my opinion.
Thanks for your channel
The problem with bigger is that it’s heavier and this type of binding still needs to be light. No brakes really work in powder in my experience… I’m sorry to hear about the service I’ve always had great service and I’m sure they will take on the feedback!
Only ski biding-my a$$. Mount it on a pair of FIS SL ski, see how it goes. 😂😂
You’ll notice it was a question not a statement…
Nope, I came here for the cat.
*if you only tour* . Would never ski that in a real freeride setting or at whistler.
I think if you are only ever downhill free riding then something like a look pivot would be better but there are no legitimate reasons you can’t take this binding anywhere that skis have already been.
Movie about bindings, but no bindings in video. Why u put camera so far from ski and bindings, where is close-up ?)
Info job 11/10
Cameramen job 3/10 ))
Tha is for the feedback. I’m not a camera man so I do the best I can as a one man band. Most people found it fine but I’m always looking for ways to improve.
FfS, give the cat some screen time!
🐈 ⛷️
😺