I know this video is old but I wanted to say thanks. You saved me a lot of time and money. I never paid attention to only one bolt there. I would have never thought about a leak being there.
Fellas quick warming if you do this after having a leak for a while you steering will feel massively lighter than what you’re used to, do be careful taking corners
You're a legend mate. Thanks so much for tsking the time to make and post this video. I was having the exact same issue. But I watched this video. Ordered the part. Pulled off the old one (it broke off). Did the lock turns. Not a stiff turn anymore ;) Thanks again mate
Just started having this issue today. 02 Subaru impreza sport, the whirring goes away after the car warms up and some forums said it could be this Oring you're talking about here. I'm gonna check it out tomorrow morning and post again with an update!
My spec b's oring still _felt_ good, was still pliable, but putting a new one in fixed it. The old one was actually compressed over the past 16 years, because with the new oring in, the male part didn't just drop in flush with the female side. I had to apply a little effort to torque the 10mm bolt back down. Once I did, years of obnoxious whine when < 50F degrees fixed in only a few min!
On my Aussie MY06 wrx Hawkeye this worked with the same oring part number. After a timing belt change, the old oring must have been distributed and was whining. Oring wasn’t plastic hard or broken but was flat around the edge, almost rectangle like. The top hose connecting to this section had turned hard, so I replaced it as well. Thank you for posting this
Thanks, hopefully this fixes my issue as it is very easy and cheap. I knew this was the first thing to try but I like to watch videos before I attempt anything :)
Looks like the problem here is because Subaru designed that P/S pipe to be held by only 1 bolt at that location and air ends up getting in there eventually through the opposite side where that bolt attaches.. If it had 2 bolts securing it, that connection would stay air tight much longer. Ideally, the full turns on the steering wheel should be done with the front of the car jacked up.
@@TuanTran-rf4rh After replacing the orange O-ring on mine, the leak stopped. Just make sure when you place it where it goes and return the P/S pipe there to place it carefully as to not bite a piece of the O-ring.
If this doesnt work. But some ATF gasket sealer. Make sure its the red high temperature one. And put it not on the o ring but where it sits on around the hole/bolt hole on too of the power-steering pump, worked for me.
I don't have hard steering or noise, but I have power steering fluid all over the front of my engine, and I'm filling up my power steering fluid once every 2 weeks or so.
could this O-ring account for an overall leaky power steering pump? I don't have hard steering, but my whole power steering pump gradually gets coated with a sticky residue (I guess ATF). I suspect I need to replace my whole pump, but would there be any point of trying to replace just this O-ring in this case?
Is this a 2002? I have a leak near here and also have my inlet pressing on the line the leak was there when I got the car. Steering feels good. I’ll try this. Thank you
I have one question, when you’re done replacing the seal and you want to bleed it out do you leave the power steering cap off while the car is on? Or do you leave the cap on while the car is on and you twist lock to lock? Thank you
Some years/ models do in fact have two o rings stacked on the tube going into the pump. The return suction hose end that goes into the top of the pump. (The hose comming from bottom of fluid resivior).
Surprise! The bugeye's use a different power steering pump. Low pressure PS line connects to the passenger side of the pump instead of on top as shown in the videos i have found so far. Not as easy to access the the 10mm bolt and o-ring. Will also probably spill more PS fluid when you disconnect the line. Oh well, I'm going to remove the pump anyway for access when i replace the factory turbo inlet with a Mishimoto.
I know this video is old but I wanted to say thanks. You saved me a lot of time and money. I never paid attention to only one bolt there. I would have never thought about a leak being there.
Fellas quick warming if you do this after having a leak for a while you steering will feel massively lighter than what you’re used to, do be careful taking corners
Thank´s for showing the part number! It made ordering the part much easier!. Thank´s for the tip on over tightening too! Cheers! from Finland!
You're a legend mate. Thanks so much for tsking the time to make and post this video. I was having the exact same issue. But I watched this video. Ordered the part. Pulled off the old one (it broke off). Did the lock turns. Not a stiff turn anymore ;) Thanks again mate
This man saved me so much stress and time thank you so much!!
Thanks mate,watched your video changed mine, already month without problems 🔥🔥🔥
Been having this issue for the longest time. Thanks for the video. Easy fix
Just started having this issue today. 02 Subaru impreza sport, the whirring goes away after the car warms up and some forums said it could be this Oring you're talking about here. I'm gonna check it out tomorrow morning and post again with an update!
My spec b's oring still _felt_ good, was still pliable, but putting a new one in fixed it. The old one was actually compressed over the past 16 years, because with the new oring in, the male part didn't just drop in flush with the female side. I had to apply a little effort to torque the 10mm bolt back down. Once I did, years of obnoxious whine when < 50F degrees fixed in only a few min!
On my Aussie MY06 wrx Hawkeye this worked with the same oring part number. After a timing belt change, the old oring must have been distributed and was whining. Oring wasn’t plastic hard or broken but was flat around the edge, almost rectangle like. The top hose connecting to this section had turned hard, so I replaced it as well. Thank you for posting this
Thanks mate, I just changed my timing belt and now have power steering noise. I'll change the o rings.
awesome. my power steering pump has fluid all over the top of it. Must be this O-Ring! Will replace and fingers crossed.
Thanks, hopefully this fixes my issue as it is very easy and cheap. I knew this was the first thing to try but I like to watch videos before I attempt anything :)
Thank you for this
Thanks I fixed all I paid $2.80 at the Subaru dealer. No more problems . Before the steering wheel was shaking and making noise.
You helped save me a lot of $$$ THANK YOU!!!
Simple and didactic video. Thanks.
Great video! Thank you so much for the clear explaination!
Thanks man this video was spot on i appreciate u
Looks like the problem here is because Subaru designed that P/S pipe to be held by only 1 bolt at that location and air ends up getting in there eventually through the opposite side where that bolt attaches.. If it had 2 bolts securing it, that connection would stay air tight much longer. Ideally, the full turns on the steering wheel should be done with the front of the car jacked up.
Same problem here change the new o ring still leaked….can we apply rtv on it to stop leak note that my connection hose is aluminium
@@TuanTran-rf4rh After replacing the orange O-ring on mine, the leak stopped. Just make sure when you place it where it goes and return the P/S pipe there to place it carefully as to not bite a piece of the O-ring.
If this doesnt work. But some ATF gasket sealer. Make sure its the red high temperature one. And put it not on the o ring but where it sits on around the hole/bolt hole on too of the power-steering pump, worked for me.
I wonder if Forester had this too. Mine was loose steering wheel, then grinding, then no power steering. WTH!
I don't have hard steering or noise, but I have power steering fluid all over the front of my engine, and I'm filling up my power steering fluid once every 2 weeks or so.
Can I use any o ring once it fitting and is the same size
could this O-ring account for an overall leaky power steering pump? I don't have hard steering, but my whole power steering pump gradually gets coated with a sticky residue (I guess ATF). I suspect I need to replace my whole pump, but would there be any point of trying to replace just this O-ring in this case?
Same problem here gonna replace the oring and hope for the best. Not gonna replace a $500 part when it works fine but leaks.
Thanks for this video!
Thanks bud. Iv had this issue for almost a year now. Problem solved
Great video thank you!!
Is this a 2002? I have a leak near here and also have my inlet pressing on the line the leak was there when I got the car. Steering feels good. I’ll try this. Thank you
How much torque on the bolt? 1/4 turn after hand tighten?
my bolt holding it was a 12mm... weird
on 2006 FXT
I watched a different video that said it was a 12mm also, then another that said 10mm. I think it just depends.
Does anyone know the part number or bolt size for the single 10mm bolt holding it in???
I need this information also!
34439FG000 Part number from the video.
There is supposed to be a bracket for that for support. I dont see it.
copper ring is what you need
I have one question, when you’re done replacing the seal and you want to bleed it out do you leave the power steering cap off while the car is on? Or do you leave the cap on while the car is on and you twist lock to lock? Thank you
Luis Guerra I started the car took the cap off. Turned the wheels lock to lock over and over until the bubbles stopped.
nakedonadrenaline thank you! The car is working now. Turns out the seal was pinched when I put everything back on.
Luis Guerra yep that’s what I did that’s why I figured to make this video. It’s very easy to pinch that o ring
Just put a new o-ring in and sure enough, it pinched and cut in half. 3 days delivery. This time, I'll order 2.
Thanks!!!
Do you need to empty your steering fluid before doing this?
Nope just dribbled a bit
Where can I buy it please? Nothing on eBay or Amazon
Subaru dealer is where to get it
Is this the only o ring for the power steering? Or are there more then one
Manuel Guerrero-Morales the only one on the suction side of the pump that causes it to be air bound
Some years/ models do in fact have two o rings stacked on the tube going into the pump. The return suction hose end that goes into the top of the pump. (The hose comming from bottom of fluid resivior).
Now if only the hoses off the resevoir wasn't so pricey to replace.
Why couldn’t have I seen this before I bought a new pump🤦🤦🤦
Damn I almost did that same thing😭
Not sure thats correct part number for the WRX i know it is for STI models.
jaygsi it was for my 04 wrx
Why is my whole setup different and everyone else has a simple fix wtf mine is not that easy . Same car 02 wrx sedan
Every video is this setup like mine don't exist why is mine such a pos .
bro me to the part he first unbolted and put the oring on I don't have that on 04 blob like wtf
Surprise! The bugeye's use a different power steering pump. Low pressure PS line connects to the passenger side of the pump instead of on top as shown in the videos i have found so far. Not as easy to access the the 10mm bolt and o-ring. Will also probably spill more PS fluid when you disconnect the line. Oh well, I'm going to remove the pump anyway for access when i replace the factory turbo inlet with a Mishimoto.
Power. Steering. Go’son off. And. Nozee
Tried it , didn’t work
How did u get it flush? Any tips. I still keep getting that gap