Il you like to create some bullet impacts effects on your plastic models, there's a neat trick I often use : Heat the tip of a small cruciform screwdriver with a lighter, then stick the model with it where you want to create the impact. Depending on the heat you put on the screwdriver, the effect might be big of not, but it creates a truly nice effect of « impact hole + molten metal » that is pleasant to watch. 🥰
Thanks so much for creating this! I haven’t built a model in over 20 years and happened upon a model store today where I purchased this exact one and then happened upon this video, how strange. Thanks for showing your process and techniques, I learned a lot. Your model turned out great! Looking forward to more videos
Awesome video. I'm just now getting into this hobby. I just started order tools and supplies to start making my own Star Wars dioramas and kits. Can't wait to get started.
Wow, appreciate that, thank you so much. I'm a quick study and have been wanting to do this for years so I feel like I know the concepts but now I can actually execute it. That feedback means a lot.
Excellent build!! Thoroughly enjoyed your attention to detail. You can always try old t-shirts or lint free paper towels on your models, to avoid unwanted material being left when cleaning up.
Very cool. Nice job. You might consider a third airbrushed stippling layer using an even lighter color applied sparingly to just the areas where light would hit and to hatches, etc, for more fading to make it pop a bit more and to add some more contrast before the weathering stages. Weathering tends to tone down and desaturate the base colors. You would have to play around with the color of this a bit, maybe an off-white or perhaps a light buff in very thin layers. This would also act as a color modulator. The weathering will tone this down and darken it some, so it would blend really nicely. Also, an oil-dot filter would really add a lot of color variation and weathering effects quickly and easily and would add even more color modulation. Also, how do you turn the lights on and off?
Love the tips, thank you! I do plan to get into oil-dot filters at some stage. Maybe when I do the AT-AT. As for the lights, gotta pop the top and pull the battery haha. It was not elegant.
To avoid cracking due to thinners, sand and trim - or cut off - the assembly pins that stick in the holes to minimize the tension. By using thinners the Bandai plastic becomes brittle and the tension leads to cracks.
Amazing work on the paint job...! I am working on this one off and on (pretty chaotically ended up working on 11 kits simultaniously, some Bandai), currently in the weathering stages. Bandai plastics are indeed notoriously sensitive to some kinds of solvent, like turpentine/white spirit. The key is to prime the model well in water based/acrylic primer, applied in several thin layers. Use ample clear coating befor weathering as well and make sure you hit every spot (which isn't easy withthis kit with all its nooks and crannies). Despite knowing all this I managed to miss a spot and cracked a small piece, luckily I was able to repair it invisibly. The tolerances on these kits are so high that any amount of spray/paint, even an atom thick layer, will affect the fit, so your idea of priming everything even if it is not visible may present you with some problems regarding the ease with which you can build the model. It really is a case of priming, painting and gloss coating the kit well before weathering and MOST importantly, never let the thinner/solvent soak the kit, work with brushes damp with white spirit, never wet. These Bandai kits, despite this one vulnerability, are the pinnacle of model kit building, I have done a Y-Wing, an X-Wing, I'm working on weathering this AT-ST, the AT-AT and finishing the 1/144 Rise of Skywalker version Millennium Falcon and the B-Wing. Once they are all done,... I might finally start on that Holy Grail of Star Wars model kits that's been sitting in the corner of the room for 1½ years,... the 1/7 Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon,... I think I got enough airbrush practicing in now.... ;) If you want pointers on building and especially painting Bandai kits, find out the best procedure to deal with the solvent issue, I suggest you watch the full build and paint tutorial series on the MPG Milennium Falcon by Modelmaking Guru, he taught me all I need to know. ;) Hoping to see more videos of your builds soon.
Hey, thanks for providing all of that great insight! I've just learned the hard way on my current kit and am mentioning it in the next video. A few pieces just won't slide into place and I have to live with the unevenness. But, the primer coating on all the pieces worked well save for one. Some thinner snuck into a crevice of a gun barrel and caused a couple of cracks. I just can't give up on the enamels though! They are just too good for weathering haha. Good luck on your builds and one day I too shall tackle that holy grail.
@@wcgwmodels Very curious what kit you are working on atm,... the AT-AT perhaps? But I get it if you don't want to give it away just yet,... I'll see it when your video pops up. ;) I only use enamels for painting tiny details on kits, other than that it's Tamiya Acrylics (airbrushed) for base colors. I use oil paints for weathering which also takes care of panel lining where needed. You can also work a lot longer on it as oil paints take a lot of time to fully cure. Which means, no rush, no need to use too much solvent at once. Never going back to enamel washes/weathering. As for thinner, it's best to use Mineral-/White Spirit/Turpentine rather than actual thinner, which is often more aggressive. Looking forward to the video! :)
I've got a couple shorts that gives away what I'm working on right now 😉. I have been thinking about using oils. As long as they provide as good control and blending abilities. Perhaps I'll give some a go in the next one! Appreciate the advice 🙂
I’ve built a few Bandai kits and I also experienced the plastic cracking (mostly with the B-wing model’s wings), priming everything indeed might prevent that. Overall very professional build!
Thank you very much! Yeah the cracking was likely due to the thinner getting into the joint and eating from within where it wasn't primed. But that's what the next project is for, trying some new!
No, enamel/oil doesn't eat the plastic. What happened was that the enamel thinner seeped into the joints---the hole-and-peg system that allows you to build these kits without glue. As you may have noticed when you assembled the kit, the fit for the hole-and-peg system is really tight. And that is where the problem lies. While enamel or oil is drying, it gives off a thermal reaction-meaning it produces a small amount of heat. The heat expands the plastic. Unfortunately, with the extremely tight fit, the plastic breaks and cracks as it expands. I usually circumvent this by taking time to shave off the pegs or completely cut them out. I also file and enlarge notches. Then I apply plastic cement, just like building a normal model kit. By cementing the parts, you seal off the joints. Together with the gloss coat, this completely prevents the enamel from seeping into the joints. If the enamel does seep into the joints, the shaved pegs/filed notches will provide more than enough space for the plastic to expand safely as the enamel cures. Obviously, the caveat is that cementing the parts will prevent you from posing the model. So, you have to decide its final display pose while building.
Hello, first let me tell you that you have a great model assembled and above all painted here, congratulations! Regarding the painting problem, I suppose that only the washing (pin wash) since it is enamel-based, has diluted the acrylic, which is much more solvent compared to this type of enamel paint, which is more delicate. For that next time, try to use acrylic inks or use a protective layer of glossy varnish, and once you finish the wash, go back to varnishing in matt. (Marabú and AK have good matt varnishes) Dont try to use the acrilyc paint as wash, the acrylic is gouache (Vallejo or AK) or lacquer base (Tamiya is lacquer for example) and don't work as enamel paint as wash. Due to the different capillarity and surface tension of the paints. Remember before pin wash o use decals, use gloss varnish.
Looks great. I think these should have markings and individual paint schemes done on them. I'll either print one bigger or get this when Hobby Lobby has their 40% off sale.
Thank you! I appreciate that a lot. I actually look at the cockpit now and feel like I could do more with the detail. One build gains a lot of confidence quickly!
This was great, thank you! I love the video format, the content is very informative and the music selection was perfect throughout. Can’t wait to see more from you.
Great first video. There’s a company called Evan designs that has all types of LED’s for all kinds of modeling. Also there’s a company called archive x that has original colors for Star Wars. Just a few tips. I’ll keep watching. I like the way it came out. Great job. Just too add to this I’m just starting myself. Huge Star Wars fan and I like seeing others techniques or process and like to incorporate something into what I do. Thanks
Thank you very much! I just heard about Archive X so definitely going to check it out. I'm glad my experience could help you out and glad to have you aboard. Good luck as you start out!
I really enjoyed this video. I am thinking of getting i to modelling, and seeing this was a great way to not oly learn techniques, but also earn from the mistakes of others and find better ways to do things. Your video was very clear nd presice and well eplained, and think the result was great. I would love to see just a video on what gear and equipment you use and have s well as what paints and bushes. Great video over all!
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it and found it inspirational. I think once I have a few more videos established I might do a gear and equipment video. Already it takes me so long to make a model buuld video though lol.
Very impressive build, for first time. I’ve seen people use LED filaments to simulate laser fire. I’m still planning my first build also after watching TH-cam for months
Thanks, I appreciate that! Those filaments do look cool but a bit out of my depth right now. I hope to get into dioramas at some point and will probably look at them then. Good luck with your build!
Liking that dude 👍. Great looking model in the end. I’ll have to put lighting in mine now I’ve seen yours 😅. Nice video. Defo deserved a like and sub for that 👍
Awesome job, bro. You an inspiration. I have multiple models I’ve been keeping project ready for far too long. You have just motivated me to get back into the hobby. New subscriber.
Hey, thanks! Really appreciate the comment. Awesome that I could do that for you. I think that's what this community is all about. Glad to have you aboard.
The strange affect that you experienced whereby the paint seemed to draw itself onto the surface from a paintbrush placed nearby but not touching any model surface may have an explanation. The act of handling the model develops a small static charge on the surface of the fine plastic parts. Application of paint or primer can push this static charge around as you work on it. The dryer the air environment in your workspace the greater the static affect. Tiny dust particles on the surface build up like small whiskers that are charged and can draw volatile paint particles directly from the air. Dissolved paint particles in the paint fumes are attracted to and adhere to the charged surface of the model. These particles are so tiny you will not be able to see them until they concentrate on the surface. You can negate this static charge by using a Zero-Stat gun on the surface of your model. Zero-Stat is also used to decrease static charges on vinyl LPs and film media before and after handling. Although this is an unexpected result it could be developed to provide another type of weathering that is more random then direct application of paint. Happy modeling!
Finally, after a year, someone has provided a hypothesis! That makes a ton of sense and, in the absence of any other attempted explanation, I will take it as fact. Thank you very much!
I always enjoy a good SW Bandai build. Great video and walkthrough of your techniques. I had no clue those weathering pencils existed, i like the results and might have to give them a try. I look forward to future videos.
Thank you. I really appreciate you watching the video and sharing your thoughts. I've got a stack of Bandai kits waiting to go so there will be more to come!
Very nice work! Great job on the editing! Bandai kits are the best model kits I've built in a long time! Though i can say some of the top tiers are really stepping up their game. Try some older AMT/Ertl/MPC kits. Those will ramp up those skills in a hurry. LOL! Again, AT-ST looks famtastic!!
Thanks a lot! I think editing took me as long as the model itself lol. I do have a bunch of old AMT/ERTL Star Trek kits that I plan on building. Already looking at some of the pieces and I know they will be a different challenge than Bandai for sure.
I really liked your video and the finish you have achieved with the AT-ST. It's amazing for your first video. I am making the same model and I am going to start the weathering phase so your techniques are going to be very helpful. I hope you will delight us with more videos. I would like to see you making a Bandai 1/144 Millennium Falcon. Mine is in the box waiting for me to find a place for it.
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and it helps with your build. I've got lots more to come but the Millennium Falcon may be a while. I have a lot of respect for that paint job and need to practice a bit before I tackle that one!
Great first video, i really like your approach of 'what could/did go wrong' - it's nice to see that everyone makes mistakes and after all those are great opportunities to get the job done in a better way on the next project. Keep it up, looking forward to your next projects! I can recommend the Falcon PG and B-Wing kits from bandai, you will like both a lot.
Hey thanks for that! Glad you liked it. I do have the B-Wing waiting in the stash but the PG Falcon...that's end game stuff haha. Plus its pricey. One day I'll get to that point.
Nice build, and good video production really doesn’t look like your first time so looking forward to what comes next. I also have these weathering pencils and I think they’re a great tool, it’s surprising how few people include them in their videos and stick to the more traditional weathering techniques so it’s nice to see them used here.
Thanks a lot! Video production and editing was something I always wanted to try as well so this seemed like a good fit. The weathering pencils are indeed amazing but I'm actually very intimated by all the choices! Haha.
@@wcgwmodels I bought mine in the individual sets as buying them that way actually worked out cheaper than the full set in the big box and I had no need of the big box (I have the hobbyzone modular system, and the smaller sets fit nicely in the drawers!). Having them in the little sets helps I think as they are grouped making it easier to focus, at least for me :)
Great work. This looks amazing and you make it seem much easier than other videos out there. I’ve just jumped back into the hobby and will be following your steps. What color did you use for the chipping? Also a pity you stopped after only 3 kits. Would love to see more of your work in the future.
Thanks so much! I'm glad you find it helpful! For the AT-ST chipping I used Tamiya Sky Grey for the light chips and Tamiya Medium Grey for the dark chips. I haven't stopped, it just takes me like 6 months to build and make the video lol. Full time job and a 4yr old doesn't leave me much time. I'm close to finishing a build and video right now so hopefully I'll have some new content for you soon.
@@wcgwmodels I’m hearing you. A 3&5yr old at my house. I think mine get naturally weathered it takes me that long to finish a kit. Thanks for the reply on what paint you used. Just finished priming my chicken walker. Onto the fun part. Can’t wait for the next vid.
@@shaunthiel2821 I don't recall adding any white to it but this was 2 years ago. Likely the sky grey is showing lighter because its fully opaque vs being sprayed over a dark grey.
subscribed! good job sir! i just want to know your tools especially what type/brand of brush you used on painting the seat. it would be nice if you put the brand of tools you've used in the description box
Thanks, appreciate that! Honestly these brushes are cheap Amazon buys so I didn't really want to advertise that 🤣. But the ones I used for the seats are these: a.co/d/7ytjMg7
Hello. I watched your video on gluing AT-ST and I liked it very much. I wanted to ask because I'm coming back to modeling after 18 years, but mainly to painting because I haven't done it before. And the most important thing is the light fixture, where do you buy it from and what needs to be done for installation. I'm from Poland and I don't know where to buy this type of stuff. 🖐
Hi! I am glad you enjoyed the video. The light fixture was actually homemade using 5050 SMD LEDs and 28 AWG wires purchased off of Amazon. The battery casing was actually part of a kids Halloween ring toy I recycled it from so not something I can suggest to buy but you can try searching for a battery casing that holds two LR44 batteries. Honestly the lighting was improvisation at the last minute and doesn't really have any steps for installation beyond what's in the video. The battery casing just sort of slides behind the figurines in the cockpit loosely. If I had could do it over again I would run wires through model to the base and power it using a DC power source. I don't know where about in Poland you could purchase material from but I'd suggest trying Amazon first. Then look for hobby stores locally or somewhere that sells electronic components.
Excellent video mate! Super model. I’m just getting into this hobby in my mid fifties and bought the Das Boot U96 and the Bandai perfect edition Millenium Falcon. Can you tell me if you used water based paints or the lacquers? Many thanks
Thanks so much! Good luck on those models! That Millennium Falcon is like my holy grail lol. For the exterior I used Tamiya acrylics which are alcohol based, not water. I thinned them with Tamiya lacquer thinner when airbrushing as I really like it's finish. For the interior details and figures I used water based acrylic Vallejo paints.
Impressive, quite impressive! Very nice job. Your work shows a great passion. Also the video is well balanced. How long did it take to complete this whole project? Also have you thought about building gunpla? I’m glad you tried so many products and techniques, especially the AK weathering pencils. They are a favorite of mine. I’ve weathered several gunpla just with the pencils. I’ve the videos on my channel. Keep up the great work. I subscribed.
Thanks for those comments! The whole project took 6 months beginning to end but thats only working on it an hour or two here and there. The next one will be much quicker though! I'm definitely going to use the pencils more. There's some really cool techniques I've seen online and am eager to try them.
@@wcgwmodels you are welcome! There are indeed so many techniques available and TH-cam is a great source. Also, you can experiment on your own. Keep up the great work. I look forward to your next build.
hi !! congratulations for your work!! I really like it! ..can I ask you a question? when you apply the light gray tone on the base grey tone, could you tell me what pressure you are working at? and in what dilution? Thank you !! 🙂
Yeah I've heard about that. My plan for this AT-ST, though, will be to build a Yavin shield base diorama around it so I wanted it to be close to the reference material.
Hah, thanks. I did build a 1:1400 Enterprise E ahead of this so I got some airbrushing experience with that but the rest is brand new. Just a student of TH-cam university and didn't rush it. Only took 5 months start to finish for the model and the video lol.
Not really as far as I know. Unless it doesn't need any cleaning up and you like it really thick. I really really like the enamels so I'll continue to use that but will try to protect the plastic better next time.
I've heard it's pretty close to the same size but not sure how different. I haven't done any Legion stuff so folks in that community may have better insight.
Il you like to create some bullet impacts effects on your plastic models, there's a neat trick I often use :
Heat the tip of a small cruciform screwdriver with a lighter, then stick the model with it where you want to create the impact. Depending on the heat you put on the screwdriver, the effect might be big of not, but it creates a truly nice effect of « impact hole + molten metal » that is pleasant to watch. 🥰
At some point I'll have the balls to do that lol. I'm still working on getting over my hesitation to drill holes for lighting. Appreciate the advice!
Thanks so much for creating this! I haven’t built a model in over 20 years and happened upon a model store today where I purchased this exact one and then happened upon this video, how strange. Thanks for showing your process and techniques, I learned a lot. Your model turned out great! Looking forward to more videos
Thank so much for saying that! I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Good luck on your build!
Thanks! Is there a way you could add the various tools, pens, brushes you used in the video description? I’m sure everyone would find it very useful.
When you can get it to look like a movie prop your EPIC!
Hey, thanks for saying that! Really appreciate it.
Nice, really nice build mate, and it’s Star Wars. So it’s a win win. Look forward to your next project.
Thanks for that! Appreciate the feedback.
I like the way you build with a loose hand on the rains approach. Hope to see more.
Thanks. I think that's mostly because I'm still fairly new at this. Don't know any other way!
Excellent first video! I would have thought you'd been doing this for a long time. Model looks great as well. Good job all around.
Hey, thanks! Really appreciate you saying that. Thanks for watching.
The chipping looks incredible 😮
Hey, thanks! My carpel tunnel appreciates that ;) lol
Hard to believe you’re a beginner. Can’t wait for more. Excellent work.
Thank you! That means a lot.
I just started modeling too and this was the first one i stuck together just a week or so ago
A great first choice in my opinion!
Awesome video. I'm just now getting into this hobby. I just started order tools and supplies to start making my own Star Wars dioramas and kits. Can't wait to get started.
Thanks a lot. That's fantastic. I hope to start doing some dioramas myself but starting off slow for now. Good luck with your upcoming projects!
I would have thought from your editing and the work you did with the model while filming you had been doing this a while. Good job, keep it up!
Wow, appreciate that, thank you so much. I'm a quick study and have been wanting to do this for years so I feel like I know the concepts but now I can actually execute it. That feedback means a lot.
I second this
Excellent build!! Thoroughly enjoyed your attention to detail.
You can always try old t-shirts or lint free paper towels on your models, to avoid unwanted material being left when cleaning up.
Hey, thanks, that's really nice of you to say. I'm glad you enjoyed it and appreciate the tip!
Very very nice work! Can't wait to see the next project
Appreciate that! Next one is coming soon!
Very cool. Nice job. You might consider a third airbrushed stippling layer using an even lighter color applied sparingly to just the areas where light would hit and to hatches, etc, for more fading to make it pop a bit more and to add some more contrast before the weathering stages. Weathering tends to tone down and desaturate the base colors. You would have to play around with the color of this a bit, maybe an off-white or perhaps a light buff in very thin layers. This would also act as a color modulator. The weathering will tone this down and darken it some, so it would blend really nicely. Also, an oil-dot filter would really add a lot of color variation and weathering effects quickly and easily and would add even more color modulation.
Also, how do you turn the lights on and off?
Love the tips, thank you! I do plan to get into oil-dot filters at some stage. Maybe when I do the AT-AT.
As for the lights, gotta pop the top and pull the battery haha. It was not elegant.
I enjoyed this video! Thanks for sharing, awesome job! Love it! 🤩
Thanks so much. Glad you enjoyed it!
Look forward to your future builds
Thanks, there's lots more to come!
To avoid cracking due to thinners, sand and trim - or cut off - the assembly pins that stick in the holes to minimize the tension. By using thinners the Bandai plastic becomes brittle and the tension leads to cracks.
Ah, I didn't think about that. Thanks for the tip!
Yep same happened on my model ..side parts just crak while using AK oil ...
i spended a lot time to hide it
Amazing work on the paint job...!
I am working on this one off and on (pretty chaotically ended up working on 11 kits simultaniously, some Bandai), currently in the weathering stages.
Bandai plastics are indeed notoriously sensitive to some kinds of solvent, like turpentine/white spirit.
The key is to prime the model well in water based/acrylic primer, applied in several thin layers.
Use ample clear coating befor weathering as well and make sure you hit every spot (which isn't easy withthis kit with all its nooks and crannies). Despite knowing all this I managed to miss a spot and cracked a small piece, luckily I was able to repair it invisibly.
The tolerances on these kits are so high that any amount of spray/paint, even an atom thick layer, will affect the fit, so your idea of priming everything even if it is not visible may present you with some problems regarding the ease with which you can build the model.
It really is a case of priming, painting and gloss coating the kit well before weathering and MOST importantly, never let the thinner/solvent soak the kit, work with brushes damp with white spirit, never wet.
These Bandai kits, despite this one vulnerability, are the pinnacle of model kit building, I have done a Y-Wing, an X-Wing, I'm working on weathering this AT-ST, the AT-AT and finishing the 1/144 Rise of Skywalker version Millennium Falcon and the B-Wing.
Once they are all done,... I might finally start on that Holy Grail of Star Wars model kits that's been sitting in the corner of the room for 1½ years,... the 1/7 Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon,... I think I got enough airbrush practicing in now.... ;)
If you want pointers on building and especially painting Bandai kits, find out the best procedure to deal with the solvent issue, I suggest you watch the full build and paint tutorial series on the MPG Milennium Falcon by Modelmaking Guru, he taught me all I need to know. ;)
Hoping to see more videos of your builds soon.
Hey, thanks for providing all of that great insight! I've just learned the hard way on my current kit and am mentioning it in the next video. A few pieces just won't slide into place and I have to live with the unevenness. But, the primer coating on all the pieces worked well save for one. Some thinner snuck into a crevice of a gun barrel and caused a couple of cracks. I just can't give up on the enamels though! They are just too good for weathering haha. Good luck on your builds and one day I too shall tackle that holy grail.
@@wcgwmodels
Very curious what kit you are working on atm,... the AT-AT perhaps?
But I get it if you don't want to give it away just yet,... I'll see it when your video pops up. ;)
I only use enamels for painting tiny details on kits, other than that it's Tamiya Acrylics (airbrushed) for base colors. I use oil paints for weathering which also takes care of panel lining where needed.
You can also work a lot longer on it as oil paints take a lot of time to fully cure.
Which means, no rush, no need to use too much solvent at once.
Never going back to enamel washes/weathering.
As for thinner, it's best to use Mineral-/White Spirit/Turpentine rather than actual thinner, which is often more aggressive.
Looking forward to the video! :)
I've got a couple shorts that gives away what I'm working on right now 😉.
I have been thinking about using oils. As long as they provide as good control and blending abilities. Perhaps I'll give some a go in the next one! Appreciate the advice 🙂
If you enjoyed the weathering, you should try building an F-14 Tomcat. They were really grubby while on a carrier.
I'd love to build a 1/32 F-14 at some point!
Fantastic work!! Just Wow!
Thank you! Really appreciate it!
Great work and very usefull video!! CONGRATS!! 👍
Thanks so much!
Very good video. I learnt a few things.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it and had something to take away.
An amazing model, well done.
Thank you very much!
Nicely done!
Thanks a lot!
Great build .. awsome video
Thanks for saying that! Appreciate it!
Great job. It turned out very nice.
Thanks so much!
I enjoyed that. Thank You
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it!
It looks real good.
Thanks, mate. Appreciate that!
I’ve built a few Bandai kits and I also experienced the plastic cracking (mostly with the B-wing model’s wings), priming everything indeed might prevent that. Overall very professional build!
Thank you very much! Yeah the cracking was likely due to the thinner getting into the joint and eating from within where it wasn't primed. But that's what the next project is for, trying some new!
Rad, brother. Looks amazing.
Thanks a lot! I appreciate it!
Excellent first build and video! Congratulations on a fine work Sir!
Thank you very much! Really appreciate it!
No, enamel/oil doesn't eat the plastic. What happened was that the enamel thinner seeped into the joints---the hole-and-peg system that allows you to build these kits without glue. As you may have noticed when you assembled the kit, the fit for the hole-and-peg system is really tight.
And that is where the problem lies. While enamel or oil is drying, it gives off a thermal reaction-meaning it produces a small amount of heat. The heat expands the plastic. Unfortunately, with the extremely tight fit, the plastic breaks and cracks as it expands.
I usually circumvent this by taking time to shave off the pegs or completely cut them out. I also file and enlarge notches. Then I apply plastic cement, just like building a normal model kit.
By cementing the parts, you seal off the joints. Together with the gloss coat, this completely prevents the enamel from seeping into the joints. If the enamel does seep into the joints, the shaved pegs/filed notches will provide more than enough space for the plastic to expand safely as the enamel cures.
Obviously, the caveat is that cementing the parts will prevent you from posing the model. So, you have to decide its final display pose while building.
Great 1st video. Great build
Thank you. Much appreciated!
Hello, first let me tell you that you have a great model assembled and above all painted here, congratulations!
Regarding the painting problem, I suppose that only the washing (pin wash) since it is enamel-based, has diluted the acrylic, which is much more solvent compared to this type of enamel paint, which is more delicate. For that next time, try to use acrylic inks or use a protective layer of glossy varnish, and once you finish the wash, go back to varnishing in matt. (Marabú and AK have good matt varnishes) Dont try to use the acrilyc paint as wash, the acrylic is gouache (Vallejo or AK) or lacquer base (Tamiya is lacquer for example) and don't work as enamel paint as wash. Due to the different capillarity and surface tension of the paints. Remember before pin wash o use decals, use gloss varnish.
That's really insightful! Thanks for taking the time to provide some tips. I really appreciate it.
Looks great. I think these should have markings and individual paint schemes done on them. I'll either print one bigger or get this when Hobby Lobby has their 40% off sale.
Thanks! Would look good with a paint scheme but I was starting off easy. Maybe next time.
Really good job
Thank you very much!
Love the vid pal. Looking forward to more content. Such a professional video, both content and production quality.
Thanks so much! Really appreciate that comment. I hope it just gets better from here!
Great channel..! Coming out of the gate swinging. Nice job…
Thanks a lot! Lots more to come!
great vid man, love seeing attention to details on the cockpit. that's serious love and commitment! :)
Thank you! I appreciate that a lot. I actually look at the cockpit now and feel like I could do more with the detail. One build gains a lot of confidence quickly!
Awesome ! Nice job👍👍
Thank you!
This was great, thank you!
I love the video format, the content is very informative and the music selection was perfect throughout. Can’t wait to see more from you.
Thank you very much! There's lots more to come!
i'm trying to get into this stuff too, looks like you're doing a great job with two hobbies now. videos and models
Thanks a lot! Good luck on getting started.
nice model.... I used only acrylic products --- no enamels , unless its acrylic ....
Thanks! I found I really like the way enamels can be manipulated but I haven't tried using acrylics for weathering. Maybe next build.
@@wcgwmodels acrylics dry quickly and many are water based…super easy for dry brush technique …..no plastics melting….
Great video ! Love how you edit it and show us all the painting process. Beautiful model !
Thank you! Really glad you enjoyed it.
Great work. Really enjoyed the video. 😊👍
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed ☺️
Great first video! Good storytelling and relaxed vibes! Excellent job on the build as well! Looking forward to seeing more...
Thanks, I appreciate that! Glad you liked the vibe, that's what I'm aiming for.
Nice job.
Thank you!
Great job 👏 🎉, thanks for
Thanks so much!
Great first video. There’s a company called Evan designs that has all types of LED’s for all kinds of modeling. Also there’s a company called archive x that has original colors for Star Wars. Just a few tips. I’ll keep watching. I like the way it came out. Great job. Just too add to this I’m just starting myself. Huge Star Wars fan and I like seeing others techniques or process and like to incorporate something into what I do. Thanks
Thank you very much! I just heard about Archive X so definitely going to check it out. I'm glad my experience could help you out and glad to have you aboard. Good luck as you start out!
Just got the same kit for a shampoo bottle scratch/kit bash build lander, great video & subbed.
That sounds really cool! Good luck with that build!
great video
Thanks a lot!
Fantastic first video, it’s a great kit too, I’ve done a few myself and they’re always fun. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do next
Thank you! Really appreciate you saying that. Stay tuned as I've got many more kits already in the stash to do!
Excellent work
Thank you very much!
I really enjoyed this video. I am thinking of getting i to modelling, and seeing this was a great way to not oly learn techniques, but also earn from the mistakes of others and find better ways to do things. Your video was very clear nd presice and well eplained, and think the result was great. I would love to see just a video on what gear and equipment you use and have s well as what paints and bushes. Great video over all!
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it and found it inspirational. I think once I have a few more videos established I might do a gear and equipment video. Already it takes me so long to make a model buuld video though lol.
Very impressive build, for first time. I’ve seen people use LED filaments to simulate laser fire. I’m still planning my first build also after watching TH-cam for months
Thanks, I appreciate that! Those filaments do look cool but a bit out of my depth right now. I hope to get into dioramas at some point and will probably look at them then. Good luck with your build!
@@wcgwmodels well, that answers my question of whether you would be getting into dioramas. I am eager to see how your channel grows!
@@sorenzx1923 That's the hope! I love the idea of hanger bays and still life. Once I get into a flow I'll start looking at what I could do.
I’m actually sad you only have one video. Incredible work.
Wow, thanks, man. Working on my next one as we speak though!
Great vid man!🤙🏻
Thanks a lot!
Part - D1,1. Only builders know 😂 Great video and great build.
😉
Thanks very much!
Liking that dude 👍. Great looking model in the end. I’ll have to put lighting in mine now I’ve seen yours 😅.
Nice video. Defo deserved a like and sub for that 👍
Thanks, man! You'll have the chance to put a real switch in for the lights 😂
Great video, great presentation. You've got a new subscriber. I look forward to your next videos
Thank so much! Glad to have you aboard.
Incredible job! Thanks for taking us on this wonderful journey learning :) Totally makes me wanna build, too! Curious what comes next, keep it up! :)
Thanks a lot! That's the way I've been thinking of this, as a learning journey people can join me on. Already working on the next one so stay tuned!
Wonderful!!!!!!
Thank you!
Awesome job, bro. You an inspiration. I have multiple models I’ve been keeping project ready for far too long. You have just motivated me to get back into the hobby. New subscriber.
Hey, thanks! Really appreciate the comment. Awesome that I could do that for you. I think that's what this community is all about. Glad to have you aboard.
Hard to believe you're a "new guy". Great Job!
Haha, thanks! I selectively didn't show the finger print mark I left while the clear coat was still wet ;)
The strange affect that you experienced whereby the paint seemed to draw itself onto the surface from a paintbrush placed nearby but not touching any model surface may have an explanation. The act of handling the model develops a small static charge on the surface of the fine plastic parts. Application of paint or primer can push this static charge around as you work on it. The dryer the air environment in your workspace the greater the static affect. Tiny dust particles on the surface build up like small whiskers that are charged and can draw volatile paint particles directly from the air. Dissolved paint particles in the paint fumes are attracted to and adhere to the charged surface of the model. These particles are so tiny you will not be able to see them until they concentrate on the surface. You can negate this static charge by using a Zero-Stat gun on the surface of your model. Zero-Stat is also used to decrease static charges on vinyl LPs and film media before and after handling. Although this is an unexpected result it could be developed to provide another type of weathering that is more random then direct application of paint. Happy modeling!
Finally, after a year, someone has provided a hypothesis! That makes a ton of sense and, in the absence of any other attempted explanation, I will take it as fact. Thank you very much!
I always enjoy a good SW Bandai build. Great video and walkthrough of your techniques. I had no clue those weathering pencils existed, i like the results and might have to give them a try. I look forward to future videos.
Thank you. I really appreciate you watching the video and sharing your thoughts. I've got a stack of Bandai kits waiting to go so there will be more to come!
1st Video? 1st build? Subscribed, brother! Looking forward to see how you grow as a modeler.
Thanks, man! Really appreciate it. Glad to have you along for the journey.
Great job!
Thanks, mate!
Very nice work! Great job on the editing! Bandai kits are the best model kits I've built in a long time! Though i can say some of the top tiers are really stepping up their game. Try some older AMT/Ertl/MPC kits. Those will ramp up those skills in a hurry. LOL! Again, AT-ST looks famtastic!!
Thanks a lot! I think editing took me as long as the model itself lol. I do have a bunch of old AMT/ERTL Star Trek kits that I plan on building. Already looking at some of the pieces and I know they will be a different challenge than Bandai for sure.
I really liked your video and the finish you have achieved with the AT-ST. It's amazing for your first video. I am making the same model and I am going to start the weathering phase so your techniques are going to be very helpful. I hope you will delight us with more videos. I would like to see you making a Bandai 1/144 Millennium Falcon. Mine is in the box waiting for me to find a place for it.
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and it helps with your build. I've got lots more to come but the Millennium Falcon may be a while. I have a lot of respect for that paint job and need to practice a bit before I tackle that one!
great build.
Thanks! I appreciate that.
Awesome job! 👌🏻
Thank you!
Great first video, i really like your approach of 'what could/did go wrong' - it's nice to see that everyone makes mistakes and after all those are great opportunities to get the job done in a better way on the next project. Keep it up, looking forward to your next projects! I can recommend the Falcon PG and B-Wing kits from bandai, you will like both a lot.
Hey thanks for that! Glad you liked it. I do have the B-Wing waiting in the stash but the PG Falcon...that's end game stuff haha. Plus its pricey. One day I'll get to that point.
Great build! Subbed 🙂
Awesome, thank you!
Nice build, and good video production really doesn’t look like your first time so looking forward to what comes next. I also have these weathering pencils and I think they’re a great tool, it’s surprising how few people include them in their videos and stick to the more traditional weathering techniques so it’s nice to see them used here.
Thanks a lot! Video production and editing was something I always wanted to try as well so this seemed like a good fit. The weathering pencils are indeed amazing but I'm actually very intimated by all the choices! Haha.
@@wcgwmodels I bought mine in the individual sets as buying them that way actually worked out cheaper than the full set in the big box and I had no need of the big box (I have the hobbyzone modular system, and the smaller sets fit nicely in the drawers!). Having them in the little sets helps I think as they are grouped making it easier to focus, at least for me :)
That's smart! I am far from organized and when I look at that box I have mild panic attacks lol
I enjoyed watching this build. It turned out really great.
What's next on the bench?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Next up is a surprise but I can tell you it's a starfighter 🤫
@WCGW Models
Im assuring it's a Star Wars starfighter?
@@IRMAOCUSTOMMODELS you assume correctly!
Please do more!
I've got lots more to come!
Great work. This looks amazing and you make it seem much easier than other videos out there. I’ve just jumped back into the hobby and will be following your steps. What color did you use for the chipping? Also a pity you stopped after only 3 kits. Would love to see more of your work in the future.
Thanks so much! I'm glad you find it helpful! For the AT-ST chipping I used Tamiya Sky Grey for the light chips and Tamiya Medium Grey for the dark chips.
I haven't stopped, it just takes me like 6 months to build and make the video lol. Full time job and a 4yr old doesn't leave me much time. I'm close to finishing a build and video right now so hopefully I'll have some new content for you soon.
@@wcgwmodels I’m hearing you. A 3&5yr old at my house. I think mine get naturally weathered it takes me that long to finish a kit. Thanks for the reply on what paint you used. Just finished priming my chicken walker. Onto the fun part. Can’t wait for the next vid.
@@wcgwmodelssorry. You used sky grey for your 2nd base coat and also for the first part of chipping? Did you add white to it? It looks a lot whiter.
@@shaunthiel2821 I don't recall adding any white to it but this was 2 years ago. Likely the sky grey is showing lighter because its fully opaque vs being sprayed over a dark grey.
subscribed! good job sir! i just want to know your tools especially what type/brand of brush you used on painting the seat. it would be nice if you put the brand of tools you've used in the description box
Thanks, appreciate that! Honestly these brushes are cheap Amazon buys so I didn't really want to advertise that 🤣. But the ones I used for the seats are these: a.co/d/7ytjMg7
Hello. I watched your video on gluing AT-ST and I liked it very much. I wanted to ask because I'm coming back to modeling after 18 years, but mainly to painting because I haven't done it before. And the most important thing is the light fixture, where do you buy it from and what needs to be done for installation. I'm from Poland and I don't know where to buy this type of stuff. 🖐
Hi! I am glad you enjoyed the video. The light fixture was actually homemade using 5050 SMD LEDs and 28 AWG wires purchased off of Amazon. The battery casing was actually part of a kids Halloween ring toy I recycled it from so not something I can suggest to buy but you can try searching for a battery casing that holds two LR44 batteries. Honestly the lighting was improvisation at the last minute and doesn't really have any steps for installation beyond what's in the video. The battery casing just sort of slides behind the figurines in the cockpit loosely. If I had could do it over again I would run wires through model to the base and power it using a DC power source.
I don't know where about in Poland you could purchase material from but I'd suggest trying Amazon first. Then look for hobby stores locally or somewhere that sells electronic components.
Hello! What are you using on the brush to spread the weather pencil effects?
Just water! They are brilliant.
Excellent video mate! Super model. I’m just getting into this hobby in my mid fifties and bought the Das Boot U96 and the Bandai perfect edition Millenium Falcon. Can you tell me if you used water based paints or the lacquers? Many thanks
Thanks so much! Good luck on those models! That Millennium Falcon is like my holy grail lol. For the exterior I used Tamiya acrylics which are alcohol based, not water. I thinned them with Tamiya lacquer thinner when airbrushing as I really like it's finish. For the interior details and figures I used water based acrylic Vallejo paints.
@@wcgwmodels Many thanks for the info on the paints, very much appreciated. I’ll look forward to your next video.
Impressive, quite impressive! Very nice job. Your work shows a great passion. Also the video is well balanced. How long did it take to complete this whole project? Also have you thought about building gunpla? I’m glad you tried so many products and techniques, especially the AK weathering pencils. They are a favorite of mine. I’ve weathered several gunpla just with the pencils. I’ve the videos on my channel. Keep up the great work. I subscribed.
Thanks for those comments! The whole project took 6 months beginning to end but thats only working on it an hour or two here and there. The next one will be much quicker though! I'm definitely going to use the pencils more. There's some really cool techniques I've seen online and am eager to try them.
@@wcgwmodels you are welcome! There are indeed so many techniques available and TH-cam is a great source. Also, you can experiment on your own. Keep up the great work. I look forward to your next build.
hi !!
congratulations for your work!! I really like it!
..can I ask you a question?
when you apply the light gray tone on the base grey tone, could you tell me what pressure you are working at?
and in what dilution?
Thank you !! 🙂
Hey, so glad you like it! For the light grey I had it thinned down a lot. Probably something like 70% thinner to paint and around 8-10 PSI.
Thanx !!!
😉👍👍👍
#14:00 it was the force..!
That's the only conclusion I could come to myself
Not a bad job but you need to check out the Empire strikes back because these also appear in the Hoth scene..
Yeah I've heard about that. My plan for this AT-ST, though, will be to build a Yavin shield base diorama around it so I wanted it to be close to the reference material.
there is no way u r the first timer!!!!!!!! noooooooo!!!!! I envy your talent!
Hah, thanks for that! A lot of patience and a lot of time helped. Couldn't do the same thing quickly.
Not bad for your first attempt? are you sure you haven't been doing this longer? great work it looks good.
Hah, thanks. I did build a 1:1400 Enterprise E ahead of this so I got some airbrushing experience with that but the rest is brand new. Just a student of TH-cam university and didn't rush it. Only took 5 months start to finish for the model and the video lol.
@@wcgwmodels Nice work, it really does look great.
Do you know if there a way to apply the wash without using the enamel thinner, if it erodes the plastic?
Not really as far as I know. Unless it doesn't need any cleaning up and you like it really thick. I really really like the enamels so I'll continue to use that but will try to protect the plastic better next time.
I use clear "Pledge Care Finish" to work with Enamel !
It was a Internet Tip
I've heard that too. Keeping my eye out for some!
Just found your channel, dropped u a sub.
Thanks! Glad to have you!
Could I use this for starwars legion? Like for the same or close size?
I've heard it's pretty close to the same size but not sure how different. I haven't done any Legion stuff so folks in that community may have better insight.
@@wcgwmodels Bandai is little smaller. Bandai scale is 1:48, Legion one is 1:43.
Is that thing from a movie or a cartoon?
This is from Star Wars: Return of the Jedi. The AT-ST also makes an appearance in the first season of The Mandalorian and I believe Star Wars Rebels.
Bandai made nice kit but paints and oil not safe 4 plastic..
i made some custom decals 4 this model
Yeah, found out about the enamel thinner the hard way!
Great job, very well done.
Hey, thanks a lot!