I would avoid galvanizing - I had some done by Ashtree and they assure me they were straight but ended up using my forklift to pull them straight once on the chassis and as you mentioned the centre panel warps badly making the heater box/ lower dash a bugger to fit If it were mine I would dip it in a rust removing bath and powder coat it, then wax it - Dinitrol is the best in Europe Going back to galvanizing, I did a video a while back on fixing the top corners of the bulkhead and there are places that had electro static paint on the inside and the only way to get paint off is in a caustic bath - the galvanise shop uses hydrochloric acid which will not touch paint, thus, internal parts do not get plated Nice video on the bulkhead production - one wonders why they are so expensive! As for Turkish ones, - I would have to see one. Not many realize the bulkhead is key to body alignment for the doors and wings I see there is a place in Northern Ireland making them now - and as they are virgin steel, they are galvanizing them Mike PS I linked your channel on my page
Cheers Mike. I think I saw that video. Part of me feels like liquid zinc would be too thick to get into all the little gaps inside. If I can't sell my old bulkhead in the future i'll cut it up to see what the internal structure looks like. The Shielder ones you mention I think are having quality control issues reported on the forums by some of the early purchasers. Also thanks for the link :) Got a way to go before hitting your legendary status!
I suggest a rust removal bath as I see yours has been in the damp - just wonder what it is like on the insides? It would make a good video of cutting up bulkheads and making folk understand that a lot of bulkheads (and chassis) rust from the inside out due to condensation Interesting on Shielder - the pressings look correct, wonder if it is the galvanizing that is the issue? Actually just dipping to the top of the footwells would be a good idea
The inside's look quite good actually; mostly less rusty than the outside. But I agree a dip would be the way to go to give the most peace of mind. Here's some chat about those bulkheads: www.defender2.net/forum/topic62499-30.html
Interesting - you would have thought with all LR's tooling and setup they would make classic parts like they do for the BL heritage - after all there must be a world wide demand!? I sometimes roll my eyes at LR's business plan...
My bulkhead come out of the galvanizers like one of those yellow fruits that you peel to remove a soft edible inner section. They grow on tree's in warmer climates and there are European Regulations regulating "abnormal curvature". Banana, it is a banana.
I've galvanised loads, they're fine as long as its not an old rotten repaired thing- you will be fine, they will dip it in acid before it's galvanised and as yours isn't E-coated or seam sealed yet. I remember buying the cheap bulkheads, genuine front doors for £90, and whole genuine 110 tub sides and arches for £180- it pays to check your part numbers. Seam seal after primer that's were people go wrong! it's the puma vents that go wobbly after galvanising.
I’ve had a ex Australian army 110 bulkhead sand blasted then HD galvanised. I have not fitted it up yet but all looks ok. Including the 2 door Pilar’s being in the same plane
Very interesting on the differences in those bulkheads. I've also heard about issues with galvanized and warping, even if braced. I'd be tempted to clean it up as best as possible then try and get a really good quality primer and paint, should last long enough.
Thanks for that, interesting video. You know Landy drivers have at least two things in common. We like to wave to each other on the road and the other is collecting parts for future builds..lol. How many sheds, garages and lofts are full of turbos, injection pumps my shed has a britpart rear fuel tank, murder when you need to get the lawn mower oot... GN
Galvanising is fine if they know what they're doing but it's rare to find someone who can do it cheaply enough. But you've got to have them completely chemically stripped inside and out and it's damn near impossible. Add to that, that almost every hold and working edge on the one my friend had done needed to be be drilled or filed and you've wasted your time. I use corroless products which is on a par with Dinitrol from what I understand.
Know it might be a mad question 🙋♂️ why can’t they make bulkheads out of aluminium? I know they are fire/walls .. is it that ? Strength… can’t be that ..
I would avoid galvanizing - I had some done by Ashtree and they assure me they were straight but ended up using my forklift to pull them straight once on the chassis and as you mentioned the centre panel warps badly making the heater box/ lower dash a bugger to fit
If it were mine I would dip it in a rust removing bath and powder coat it, then wax it - Dinitrol is the best in Europe
Going back to galvanizing, I did a video a while back on fixing the top corners of the bulkhead and there are places that had electro static paint on the inside and the only way to get paint off is in a caustic bath - the galvanise shop uses hydrochloric acid which will not touch paint, thus, internal parts do not get plated
Nice video on the bulkhead production - one wonders why they are so expensive!
As for Turkish ones, - I would have to see one. Not many realize the bulkhead is key to body alignment for the doors and wings
I see there is a place in Northern Ireland making them now - and as they are virgin steel, they are galvanizing them
Mike
PS I linked your channel on my page
Cheers Mike. I think I saw that video. Part of me feels like liquid zinc would be too thick to get into all the little gaps inside. If I can't sell my old bulkhead in the future i'll cut it up to see what the internal structure looks like.
The Shielder ones you mention I think are having quality control issues reported on the forums by some of the early purchasers.
Also thanks for the link :) Got a way to go before hitting your legendary status!
I suggest a rust removal bath as I see yours has been in the damp - just wonder what it is like on the insides?
It would make a good video of cutting up bulkheads and making folk understand that a lot of bulkheads (and chassis) rust from the inside out due to condensation
Interesting on Shielder - the pressings look correct, wonder if it is the galvanizing that is the issue?
Actually just dipping to the top of the footwells would be a good idea
The inside's look quite good actually; mostly less rusty than the outside. But I agree a dip would be the way to go to give the most peace of mind.
Here's some chat about those bulkheads: www.defender2.net/forum/topic62499-30.html
Interesting - you would have thought with all LR's tooling and setup they would make classic parts like they do for the BL heritage - after all there must be a world wide demand!?
I sometimes roll my eyes at LR's business plan...
My bulkhead come out of the galvanizers like one of those yellow fruits that you peel to remove a soft edible inner section. They grow on tree's in warmer climates and there are European Regulations regulating "abnormal curvature". Banana, it is a banana.
I've galvanised loads, they're fine as long as its not an old rotten repaired thing- you will be fine, they will dip it in acid before it's galvanised and as yours isn't E-coated or seam sealed yet. I remember buying the cheap bulkheads, genuine front doors for £90, and whole genuine 110 tub sides and arches for £180- it pays to check your part numbers. Seam seal after primer that's were people go wrong! it's the puma vents that go wobbly after galvanising.
good advice, cheers
You're Land Rover knowledge is proper nurdy...... Just like me👍😂
I’ve had a ex Australian army 110 bulkhead sand blasted then HD galvanised. I have not fitted it up yet but all looks ok. Including the 2 door Pilar’s being in the same plane
Very interesting on the differences in those bulkheads. I've also heard about issues with galvanized and warping, even if braced. I'd be tempted to clean it up as best as possible then try and get a really good quality primer and paint, should last long enough.
Cheers David. I think whatever happens i'll be pumping cavity wax through every orifice! (The bulkhead that is)
I got mine spray galvd so no warping. The guy said it's the same process as what's used on oil rigs and should give it a 70 year + life.
Most of the vehicles I have bought were bargains by most measures. Interesting to see this info on bulkheads, hope I never need one for my Tdci.
Thanks for that, interesting video. You know Landy drivers have at least two things in common. We like to wave to each other on the road and the other is collecting parts for future builds..lol. How many sheds, garages and lofts are full of turbos, injection pumps my shed has a britpart rear fuel tank, murder when you need to get the lawn mower oot... GN
Galvanising is fine if they know what they're doing but it's rare to find someone who can do it cheaply enough. But you've got to have them completely chemically stripped inside and out and it's damn near impossible. Add to that, that almost every hold and working edge on the one my friend had done needed to be be drilled or filed and you've wasted your time. I use corroless products which is on a par with Dinitrol from what I understand.
I've seen lots of dodgy galv'd bulkheads on forums or ebay. I'd hate to screw one up
My Best Buy was a cast iron sign that said “ happy as a pig 🐖 in shit “. €5
Know it might be a mad question 🙋♂️ why can’t they make bulkheads out of aluminium? I know they are fire/walls .. is it that ? Strength… can’t be that ..
£90 savage…….. you jammy git …. Jealous