*You can find a LOOOOT of battery maintainers like the one shown in the video and a LOT more at **amzn.to/3hTtf5f* Appreciate the Tip? *CLICK SUBSCRIBE NOW!* to see more of these videos & Support our Family Owned & Operated Business! Like us on Facebook Now at facebook.com/haylettrv/ to catch more content or Join Us Now on Instagram at instagram.com/haylett_rv/ if that's your preference! We are Haylett Auto & RV of Coldwater Michigan! Family Owned & Operated Since 1989 and Going Strong! | 800-256-5196 | www.haylettautoandrv.com/
@@theclutteredbasement4081 I would also like to know this. I am looking to upgrade away from the batteries that came with the camper to some that can drain down further. Without significant modification to my Coleman camper.
@@theclutteredbasement4081 an AGM will eliminate the need for a lot of maintenance and upkeep, but still shouldn't be used below 50% And you still want to make sure the RV's converter is AGM compatible (most are thankfully)
Also very true! I want to do a separate video on that. I always try to jam too much into one video and am working to make each topic a focused video of its own this year.
I have a truck I only use 2 or 3 times a month and the battery would always be low or dead. I bought a 20w solar panel I mounted on the hood and a solar controller for less than $50 total. Even though I was told the battery was shot, It starts up every time with no problem and it's been 3 years now.
Thanks for the video! I have a 2023 Jayco Flight with a solar panel. Is it OK to leave battery hooked up while in storage for the winter (Montana) Thanks!
Hey josh love your videos! Got a helpful tip for you. When disconnecting a battery always take off the negative first. Then when hooking it back up start with the positive. That way it doesn’t arc on the positive terminal.
rko517 is spot on. What helps me remember this is when connecting the battery you are “adding to” so positive connect first but when disconnecting you are “taking away” from the battery so negative first. Picked up this hint a long time ago from some other person. You do nice videos. Thank you.
Hooking the positive first does nothing for the arcing. The real reason you want to do that is because the metal all around the battery is all hooked to the ground. If you hook up the positive first and bump the frame with your wrench, nothing will happen. If you hook the ground first, and then bump the frame with the wrench hooking up the positive, you’ll have a huge spark at minimum, worst case would be a fire and battery exploding spraying everything/one with acid. Disconnect neg, then positive Connect pos then neg
I took pictures of every label on the camper and put it in a file I shared with myself and my wife. I included the wiring on my battery, hitch setup, and any repairs I make. It is a good reference and I can put it all on a thumb drive to give to the next owner if we sell it. Thank you for posting these tips!
Another important tip: ALWAYS disconnect the negative (ground) wire first! That way, if your wrench touches the battery and something else it will never cause a short circuit. VERY nicely presented video!!
I’m impressed. Usually dealers and salesmen are trying to create a sale and give bad advice. I’ve been a mechanic for over 35 years, 20 of them professional diesel and fleet mechanic, and everything you said was absolutely eleventy billion percent true. Only thing I would have touched on is the difference between a float charger and a trickle charger. Otherwise, well done.
I added the Duravolt Marine Solar Panel Battery Charger 8.3watt. Works great with new batteries keeping them topped off and it comes with an onboard regulator so it doesn’t overcharge. It’s not meant to charge a discharged battery but it is made to keep a charged battery up to snuff. They also make a larger watt unit (13 watts) if you have dual batteries. For those who take them home to charge “Battery Tender “ makes a lot of different size chargers and Maintainers for your needs!
Excellent video on battery maintenance! One thing to add. If you live in a very hot environment, the heat will kill your battery quicker than anything else. Good luck storing in in your garage though since it is often warmer than the outside temps. 120F+. The cheaper batteries will only last a year or two. Buy a higher quality agm battery or a lithium.
AGM batteries are different from flooded lead-acid. AGM batteries cost quite a bit more, and they prefer a different charging type, good chargers generally have a setting for AGM and one for FLA. AGM batteries can also sit on their sides. AGM does not off-gas as FLA batteries do. They can be placed in the cab of a truck, like in some of the Western Star dump trucks I work on. The batteries are mounted under the passenger seat. AGM's are better in extreme weather.
Also a good time to check the water levels (fill with distilled water only) clean the terminals and put a light layer of vaseline on them. Also if you have other batteries, it helps to mark it as to what it goes to; RV, zero turn, tractor etc.
Josh you are the best. You’ve provided us with so much great info over the last two years. Your videos helped us choose the camper we wanted and we are now part of this great rv community. Just felt moved to say thank you so much for what you do and for cracking your quirky jokes too.
Pro Tip. Lock Washers. A loose connection can melt a terminal, void the warranty, even start a fire. Also, the bolt is only there to hold the lug onto the lead, not to make the connection. The lead at the bottom of the threads is where the connection happens, so make sure that the lead is clean using a wire brush.
Awesome info in this vid. I've owned a boat for YEARS and never replaced the batteries. I use a Marine grade AGM smart trickle charger. Checks each cell, checks health, and only charges when it gets below 80%. Charges to 100% (or as close to it as possible) then stops charging. I've got one set of AGM batteries that have lasted 3 years so far with this charger. I LOVE IT. I expect it would do the same for an RV. Which is what I am hoping anyway.
During the camping season, I use a knife switch on the battery itself to disconnect them while I’m not using them. It fits under the lid of the battery box and takes only a second to “disconnect” the batteries when it’s in storage during the camping season.
Good information as always. This goes for almost anything with a battery. In reading through my F-150 owners manual (yes, I actually read owners manuals) I found a statement that said the engine must be started (or hooked to a battery charger) and run if the truck has been sitting for more than 3 weeks to prevent the battery from draining and damaging the battery.
Love it. Thank you. Please MORE winterizing tips and tricks! I want this to be the first and last camper i buy. With your buying tips i have narrowed the large selection down to 4-5. And will be buying something in the spring. Now teach me to maintain it for a lifetime.
Great video!! Love the idea of taking a picture and using colored tape for proper connection!! Once we did a wrong connection...it was a $1,000 mistake!!
Videos like this are exactly why our next RV will come from Haylett RV......I only wish I had discovered your channel before we bought our 1st travel trailer from one of the "national chains". We are only a few hours away in the Metro Detroit area, 100% worth the drive. Great advice as always 'Uncle Josh' 😊
@@Hoomi2 I fully understand that's quite the hike and I cannot blame you for it. I wouldn't be doing my job if I didn't mention that folks have come from further... but yeah.. that's a drive lol :) Thanks so much. Just keep watching and commenting and we'll call it square. Deal? :)
What about solar? Some are hardwired to the battery. Mine is and I have 3. But I park in covered storage. My solar doesn't make power. However, all 3 controllers I have pull power to give that Bluetooth connectivity.
Solar does a great job of tending the battery for sure. But if it's going to be really cold, then I do feel batteries should still be pulled and stored where it's not crazy freezing And if the RV has solar and you pull the battery, then you need to either flip the solar disconnect (assuming the RV has one) or cover the panel so it doesn't burn out the controller with no battery in place
I live in 5th wheel in hot environment with hook ups,with nowhere to store battery in cool area. What are my options? I'll take it out for a week 3 times a year.
An additional visual aid is to also mark your colored tapes with "+" and "-" as appropriate. This can be easier to see in poor light (assuming you have good contrast between your marks and the background color) when colors can be harder to determine.
Uncle Josh, your suggestion about taking a pic of the batt connection, THEN, suggesting color coding the pos and neg cables are GENIUS!!! So simple, yet, so NOT commonly done. Thanks, Unk@ Y'all Be Safe!
This is very important if you have an older model that has a red, white, and black wire. Black and white are both negative and red is positive. All negatives inside the RV are white, but the positives are a rainbow.
I have to agree with everyone here that this is a great video on batteries. I passed it on to my neighbor who just returned home with a nice Rockwood popup. She was/is grateful for the information. I did find it amusing that elementary school children are taught that there are "eight primary colors". It has been more than fifty years since I was in ART school but back then there were only three...
lol I've caught a lot of flack for my comment about the 8 crayons in a basic box which is what I meant Obviously I'm not an art major. Just a silly RV nerd :)
Shared this with my sister that is new to RVing. She had a dead battery today when getting ready to go camping. No matter how many times I have told her to buy a tender. You explained it so well. Hope she buys a tender now.
Minor point with possible major consequence. Always disconnect the negative (black) terminal first. If you disconnect the positive (red) and let it contact metal, you might short the battery through the frame. Lots of sparks and excitement ensue. Edit: the danger lies during disconnection. If you take off the positive first, and your wrench hits metal during, standby for fireworks and maybe worse.
@@billjones5178 I'm sorry. I was not clear. The danger lies in your ratchet contacting metal under the hood while you are removing the positive lead. Sparks fly, and you can even weld your wrench to the chassis, resulting in a runaway short and battery fire. Thank you.
I’m currently starting to renovate my RV an noticed nothing in the RV is working (I don’t have it plugged up as it is sitting in my backyard). I didn’t know what to do with my battery nor how to charge it (I know terrible lol) anyway this video was super helpful and the comments are too thank you so much!!
Deltran Battery Tender Jr. are the BEST IMO. I use them on everything I own that has a 12v battery. They have literally eliminated battery early replacements in my world!
Easy fix put a 187-Series Circuit Breaker - Surface Mount 200A by Blue Sea System on the hot at the battery. zero trickle draw then. Also a Trickle charger is better for storage then a Maintainer charger. Maintainers can overcharge. Redarc also makes some AMAZING DC and charge controllers even if you want to use solar and never overcharge or have dead batteries.
Keeping your batteries off the concrete floor can not be understate. I do not know how or why the cement seems to kill them, but as Josh said setting them in a block of wood makes a big difference.
www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/general-science-you-asked/concrete-truth-about-batteries-stored-concrete Science says otherwise. An old-timers belief, and I'm an Old Timer.
There are a lot of RV videos on keeping the house batteries fresh. The very minimum is to keep a trickle charger on the batteries. Harbor Freight sells one for $5. Also its very important to never let lead acid batteries draw down below 50% of its capacity. It will kill the longevity of the battery. Solar panels are so cheap right now and are so easy to install (without drilling into the roof). Watch all the TH-cam video's on that. The solar panel keeps the battery well above 12.6 volts (about 100% charge). keeping a battery fully charged also prevents sulfation (another killer of batteries) Usually mine are about 13.2 volts. I don't like to disconnect the battery because you lose the memory of the radio presets and also I keep the fantastic fan going on low speed in the summer time as it gets pretty hot inside the coach. The solar panel can handle all these draws plus any parasitic draws you might have. I use the Ever Start Walmart deep cycle batteries for around $100 as lithium are just too expensive at $1000 each. Mine are going on 5 years now
@@darrellthody6125 I've got all three types on six different vehicles. They all work . Granted the smart IC controlled charger can assess the condition of the battery better. Sometimes old technology is not that bad.
@@sherab2715 Is the system working? What is the voltage output of the solar panel to the solar charge controller? If the battery is dead than you could have a worn out battery that wont hold a charge. What is turned on in the RV that drains the batteries? A 100 watt panel delivers up to 6 amps to a battery. That would easily top off a battery in an RV being stored. I'm assuming the panel gets a good amount of daylight hours to even work. Have someone check out your system if you don't know how to.
Hey, so . I thought this video was going to be another bull crapper video with false information that I was going to be like "no, no, no!" But.... Yes! You guys know what you're talking about! I've been in RV, mechanics, automotive, AND battery industry for a while... I can say, I agree with everything! One simple thing to do while docked is to flip the charger off from the breaker once in a while if stationary... Thanks for actually giving full accurate info to your viewers
I try man. I certainly don’t get. All right and if you ever catch me stating something incorrectly, then please point it out. Giving good info is always the goal here
Haha! I love it! First time we went camping I swapped my battery lines and fried a conductor at my panel. Hard lesson learned. Great tips Unc. See you in your nightmares. -Freddy
Yes take a picture!!!! Omg talk about some high end cheese information there. That has helped me out so much. Now when I walk around in my pants I feel fancy so now I am technically a fancy pants, who new. Tyvm
Removing the battery for long-term parking also prevents one other potential costly problem - battery thieves. The battery that was stolen off our old popup was probably already bad, but the thief didn't unclamp the cables. They just cut them. If we were going to use the trailer again, not only would I need to replace the battery, I would need to repair the cut cables. New trailer has a lock and chain around the battery box, to hopefully at least slow down the thieves, if not deter them towards easier pickings.
Robert here. We live way down south but really like your info. You are a good man. You have a lot of solutions. We'll look forward to see your next video.🙂
Okay Josh - I'm a Granny in an RV. I stair at my Battery and it looks like the one you are showing. Which side do I open to check the water? And do I have to take off the terminals before I add water, and there looks to be some green crustiness to them, how do I clean that off, I'm afraid to get electrocuted. No I don't have anyone who can help me. Thank-you.
@@JoshtheRVNerd The one in this video, is identical...in the black covering , the front tongue in your thumb nail looks just like my trailer. Please do a little snippet on the maintenance of the battery, how to add watch, dangers if any. I would be so grateful. Thank-you so kindly for your quick response.
My early 2022 Rockwood 2205s was built with a red crimps on the negative frame ground cable. What’s worse, is in spite of a (easily lost) sticky white label around the red crimped ground end at the frame, they used the red crimp on the ground to battery connection as well! AND, they used extra long cable for this ground and looped it into and back out of the cable access pathway toward the pass-through storage area. A tug on each cable suggested they are each connected inside the pass through to other terminations. But THE apparently ‘TWO’ cables are the same, looped in and back out of the circular cable port as you can see only from the underside of the trailer! In this case, it’s easy to be misled and reconnect a frame ground on the positive terminal. 😨 Taking a picture of the factory connection before removing wires off terminals is the best suggestion. Apparently someone did this, cuz the ground cable is too long to leave dangling freely. Neither end of this grounding cable should have been crimped with red, and the routing loop into and out of the trailer makes it difficult to know that the free end of the red factory cable termination crimp should go on the negative battery post!
A solar panel with a good charge controller can help too as long as the panel doesn't get snowed over in the winter. Don't need much just to maintain the battery.
@@JoshtheRVNerd Pulling it is the best option but my 300 watt solar system does not like being disconnected from the batteries (2). When the batteries are disconnected the charge controller gets confused as to whether the batteries a dead and sends full amps or full and shuts down. So without the batteries my battery connections would spend the winter cycling between 14.4 volts and 0 several times a minute. I'd have to probably put a disconnect to the panels themselves from the charge controller. I also have an onboard 2/4 amp tender which I plug in for the winter in case the panels do snow over, but if you are storing on a lot then you can't do that, so this solution won't work for most people. If I were storing at a lot I would definitely pull the batteries for winter and somehow disconnect the panels. My trailer is a bit older so the fridge and hot water heater do not draw when off. I found my other trickle loads which were the entertainment system and the CO detector. They happen to both be on the same circuit so I pull that fuse for winter. But ya, if all you have is a battery and not all this fancy stuff, I agree pull it and put it in the garage. It will freeze otherwise even if you disconnect it. Had that happen once on my old pop-up trailer, what a mess. Even though the battery was in a marine case, the case filled up with battery acid. Not fun to deal with.
I have a 2018 29rks had a battery problem just like that I disconnected the battery and it's good now thanks for your updates Phillip from Ludlow Falls Ohio
I just put a couple battery warmers on my batteries and leave that plugged in all winter. The battery disconnect is flicked but the solar still charges. So it has trickle charge feed and the battery warmers prevent freezing in -40. This has worked well for me for the last 10 years.
My camper has a battery shutoff switch located inside the forward storage compartment and I’m confident that it, and ANY such switch connected directly to the battery, creates the ‘open switch’ condition which allows NO electrical draw on the battery. Otherwise some great tips here!
The battery trickle charger/maintainer is only a good thing. One point tho is to make certain the one you buy has a desulfation cycle as well as the bulk and float cycles.
I want to thank you so much. Watching your videos helped me out in my choice of a travel trailer. I bought a 2021 Jayco 224bh. We freakin love it. Thanks
Well then congratulations are in order! Since our videos proved helpful, then would you mind dropping us a review at www.haylettautoandrv.com/review-us/ in return for the efforts? It would mean a lot and cost you nothing! :)
So good I had to like and subscribe to all. I’m hoping my batteries will last longer. New Rv owners need to watch this and take notes. As we say in Maine, “You’re wicked smart”
Thank you for that straight forward and very helpful video! We’re about to start storing our travel trailer and this was extremely helpful! Much appreciated Sir!
Just disconnect the negative cable from the battery or add a battery switch to the battery box. I leave the battery on the RV all winter in NY state and it’s still fully charged in the Spring. I could even open the slide outs with it before hooking up 120 V power.
Hey Uncle Josh, I like these old videos of tips that you had produced prior to Bish’s. Keep reshowing or reproduce them with updated information. Happy camping.
I have been adding different tips since then and have glossed back over some of these haylett-era tips now and then. But if a video is still getting views, then I tend to just let it ride regardless of which name is on it
CTEK makes phenomenal battery maintainers/chargers, little pricey but like you stated, cheaper than a battery. I use mine for our camper in the off season and our towing truck when not in use, 2016 truck still running the OE ford battery
Hi Josh. LOVE your videos. They've helped me in lots of ways. I just bought a brand new Sunset Trail 253rb (from Bish's!). It has a switch for Power On, Power Off and "Remove Cover". I'm guessing that this would be the same as disconnecting the battery but wanted to check with the RVNerd.
Yeah that’s called the giggy box Basically it’s your battery disconnect. Technically more than that.. but that’s all you really need to know about it as a user
DEEPLY appreciate yur info on how to better care for batteries. This type of information seems to only come from your RV company! THANKS!!!!!! Hey - maybe a future video on “how to” on maintenance for gas/diesel class A, B, C’s, 🤔. Keep up the GR8 work!!!!
A battery disconnect should always be installed on the ground cable and as close as possible to the negative post on the battery. That way you can be certain that ALL circuits will be open when the switch is on. (On my RV the power tongue jack circuit seems to bypass the main panel since there's a dedicated fuse for the jack right near the battery) So, unless my RV has a second ground (which would probably be against code) there shouldn't be anything drawing power. When I disconnect the battery using the switch everything I can see that doesn't also have it's own battery (like a smoke detector) goes dark.
Thank you for your informative videos. You've taught me quite a lot that will extend the life of my camper, and increase the enjoyment my wife and I get from my camper.
Distilled water, battery maintainer and dont forget and VERY important keep top of battery clean this helps keep current from trying to traveling back and fourth between terminals!
@Josh - You mentioned both a "battery charger" and a "battery maintainer". A battery maintainer is by default a battery charger, but a battery charger is not necessarily a battery maintainer. A battery charger can "cook" a battery. I keep my RV and boat batteries in my garage over the winter, off the floor and connected to marine style battery maintainers.
You can't just get any battery maintainer. It has to be designed for your battery, and if you own different types of batteries (lead acid, lead acid AGM, Lithium Ion) you'll need multiple maintainers or a maintainer that can switch between battery types.
Your colored tape suggestion is fantastic. Wish I though of that? Too easy. I have two batteries so I pulled out the label maker and printed up numerous left positive, L negative as well as R positive and R negative. Then attached them to all the wires for future reference. Probably a little overkill on my part....
I don't have my battery cables color coded but I do have the dump valve handles coded green for gray water tank red for black water tank [Red STOP don't pull] and on the weight distribution bars the chain link I fasten into is painted so don't have to count links every time
So let's get technical here. There are trickle chargers and battery minders/maintainers. A trickle charger on a disconnected battery would also over charge at some point, correct? Now how about three stage converters? It is my understanding that WFCO 8955 is a three stage converter meaning there is "bulk" to charge a low battery, "absorb" to get a deep charge for deep cycle batteries like the ones usually on RVs and then there is "float" which means it senses what the battery needs and provides the right amount of energy...or am I am wrong here? In any case the battery water level needs periodic checking and use a hydrometer to check state of charge.
I revised the wiring in my trailer so that the battery disconnect switch is the only thing connected to the positive side of the batteries. That way, turning it to “OFF” will disconnect all loads. I just have to turn the switch back to “ON” before towing so the breakaway switch has power.
Mfgs can’t do that because it could disconnect the emergency brakes in the event of a brake away if the switch isn’t on But otherwise yeah it’s a good call
Hey there Josh my comment is a techy needs to meet up with the new batteries exploding being close to a gas lines on a non-exclusive gas tank, not properly marked with red or caution. Seems like another possible safety hazard for those less experienced 🤔. And yes I exaggerated to make my points but seems to be effective along with the run on. Make up for jogging. Lol.pass it on!!?
My question is when plugged in at a campground we leave for the week we'll leave the battery switch on so if we lose power we have backup I would imagine the trailer monitors the battery when its full charge preventing overcharging
Josh, I was told by an Advance Auto tech that cold weather is the culprit that ruins batteries. Room temperature trickle charging is best he thinks. Batteries HATE the cold, charging or not.
I suggets finding another Tech. A trickle charger doesn't know whether a battery is fully charged or not and tries to continuously pump amps into a fully charger battery. That's bad. It's 2021, time for a Float or Smart charger. Trickle Chargers should be banned. Also Consumer Reports disagrees with your TEch; www.consumerreports.org/car-batteries/how-hot-weather-affects-your-car-battery-what-to-do-about-it/#:~:text=Summer%20heat%20is%20tougher%20on,the%20onset%20of%20battery%20failure.
*You can find a LOOOOT of battery maintainers like the one shown in the video and a LOT more at **amzn.to/3hTtf5f*
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What type of battery would you recommend that's better than lead acid but can hook up to a stock unmodified camper?
@@theclutteredbasement4081 I would also like to know this. I am looking to upgrade away from the batteries that came with the camper to some that can drain down further. Without significant modification to my Coleman camper.
@@theclutteredbasement4081 an AGM will eliminate the need for a lot of maintenance and upkeep, but still shouldn't be used below 50%
And you still want to make sure the RV's converter is AGM compatible (most are thankfully)
Iex is McGill
A RV dealer suggesting ways to save money that’s a first you have my respect
We try Ian!
That’s why we drove 3hrs to buy our first RV from them last year.
Couldn’t find that at La Mesa RV in Albuquerque. Prompted me to take a RV Technician course, and scour the web for better ways!
One forgotten thing to do is check the water level in your battery annually . Top off with distilled water 👍
Also very true! I want to do a separate video on that. I always try to jam too much into one video and am working to make each topic a focused video of its own this year.
@@JoshtheRVNerd That is good advice if you are running "golf cart" batteries but AGM's are sealed and cannot be serviced.
@@JoshtheRVNerd Yes, please do!
Should check levels once a month during peak season
I check monthly.
I have a truck I only use 2 or 3 times a month and the battery would always be low or dead. I bought a 20w solar panel I mounted on the hood and a solar controller for less than $50 total. Even though I was told the battery was shot, It starts up every time with no problem and it's been 3 years now.
I leave it in the rv and plug a 1.5 amp solar charger on it, never had an issue. Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for the video! I have a 2023 Jayco Flight with a solar panel. Is it OK to leave battery hooked up while in storage for the winter (Montana)
Thanks!
Hey josh love your videos! Got a helpful tip for you. When disconnecting a battery always take off the negative first. Then when hooking it back up start with the positive. That way it doesn’t arc on the positive terminal.
ABSOLUTELY! Wish I had said something about that. TY :)
Mine still arcs! Is something up with it?
rko517 is spot on. What helps me remember this is when connecting the battery you are “adding to” so positive connect first but when disconnecting you are “taking away” from the battery so negative first. Picked up this hint a long time ago from some other person.
You do nice videos. Thank you.
@@thebrowns5337
No, it’s normal.
Hooking the positive first does nothing for the arcing.
The real reason you want to do that is because the metal all around the battery is all hooked to the ground. If you hook up the positive first and bump the frame with your wrench, nothing will happen. If you hook the ground first, and then bump the frame with the wrench hooking up the positive, you’ll have a huge spark at minimum, worst case would be a fire and battery exploding spraying everything/one with acid.
Disconnect neg, then positive
Connect pos then neg
I took pictures of every label on the camper and put it in a file I shared with myself and my wife. I included the wiring on my battery, hitch setup, and any repairs I make. It is a good reference and I can put it all on a thumb drive to give to the next owner if we sell it. Thank you for posting these tips!
Genius
Another important tip: ALWAYS disconnect the negative (ground) wire first! That way, if your wrench touches the battery and something else it will never cause a short circuit. VERY nicely presented video!!
Also attach the negative last
Negative terminal:
First off
Last on
I’m impressed. Usually dealers and salesmen are trying to create a sale and give bad advice.
I’ve been a mechanic for over 35 years, 20 of them professional diesel and fleet mechanic, and everything you said was absolutely eleventy billion percent true. Only thing I would have touched on is the difference between a float charger and a trickle charger.
Otherwise, well done.
I won’t claim to get everything right but I do try. I’m really glad I work for a company that encourages me to make good content like this.
Ounce of prevention to prevent a pound of cure…. You will be the wise man that once told me. Love your videos!
I added the Duravolt Marine Solar Panel Battery Charger 8.3watt. Works great with new batteries keeping them topped off and it comes with an onboard regulator so it doesn’t overcharge. It’s not meant to charge a discharged battery but it is made to keep a charged battery up to snuff. They also make a larger watt unit (13 watts) if you have dual batteries. For those who take them home to charge “Battery Tender “ makes a lot of different size chargers and Maintainers for your needs!
That's fantastic!
Excellent video on battery maintenance! One thing to add. If you live in a very hot environment, the heat will kill your battery quicker than anything else. Good luck storing in in your garage though since it is often warmer than the outside temps. 120F+. The cheaper batteries will only last a year or two. Buy a higher quality agm battery or a lithium.
I had this issue. I switched to a big gel battery and added my own inline kill switch. Been flawless. 👍
I’m a girl, no offense to other girls, but I usually have a hard time understanding mechanisms but this was the BEST video. Thank you!!!!!!
Well thank you! Glad it helped!
I installed a male/female twist lock plug on my battery. So simple to just unplug when not in use and plug back up when in use. Works perfectly
Great idea
AGM batteries are different from flooded lead-acid. AGM batteries cost quite a bit more, and they prefer a different charging type, good chargers generally have a setting for AGM and one for FLA. AGM batteries can also sit on their sides. AGM does not off-gas as FLA batteries do. They can be placed in the cab of a truck, like in some of the Western Star dump trucks I work on. The batteries are mounted under the passenger seat. AGM's are better in extreme weather.
Also a good time to check the water levels (fill with distilled water only) clean the terminals and put a light layer of vaseline on them. Also if you have other batteries, it helps to mark it as to what it goes to; RV, zero turn, tractor etc.
100% -- yes!! I am trying to keep each video a little more focused & didn't want to put too much info in at one time. Thx for saying something :)
@@JoshtheRVNerd what about putting actual battery acid back in the battery instead of water that is sold at your local battery suppliers?
Josh you are the best. You’ve provided us with so much great info over the last two years. Your videos helped us choose the camper we wanted and we are now part of this great rv community. Just felt moved to say thank you so much for what you do and for cracking your quirky jokes too.
Happy to help!
Pro Tip. Lock Washers. A loose connection can melt a terminal, void the warranty, even start a fire. Also, the bolt is only there to hold the lug onto the lead, not to make the connection. The lead at the bottom of the threads is where the connection happens, so make sure that the lead is clean using a wire brush.
This is the kind of brilliant "two cent tip" that can save from some massive problems. TY for this
Awesome info in this vid. I've owned a boat for YEARS and never replaced the batteries. I use a Marine grade AGM smart trickle charger. Checks each cell, checks health, and only charges when it gets below 80%. Charges to 100% (or as close to it as possible) then stops charging. I've got one set of AGM batteries that have lasted 3 years so far with this charger. I LOVE IT. I expect it would do the same for an RV. Which is what I am hoping anyway.
Right on target Josh! Full timing or seasonal, experienced or novice, this is always an important subject.
TY Donald!!
During the camping season, I use a knife switch on the battery itself to disconnect them while I’m not using them. It fits under the lid of the battery box and takes only a second to “disconnect” the batteries when it’s in storage during the camping season.
Those are handy and so affordable
Josh, honestly this is one of your best videos. Please make more like this.
TY. I am working on it. Like I said in my January video I didn't feel I was putting out my best work and am trying to get myself out of the 2020 funk
Good information as always. This goes for almost anything with a battery. In reading through my F-150 owners manual (yes, I actually read owners manuals) I found a statement that said the engine must be started (or hooked to a battery charger) and run if the truck has been sitting for more than 3 weeks to prevent the battery from draining and damaging the battery.
What's the owner's manual? Is that the thing I'm using to keep my card table level? LOL
Love it. Thank you. Please MORE winterizing tips and tricks! I want this to be the first and last camper i buy. With your buying tips i have narrowed the large selection down to 4-5. And will be buying something in the spring. Now teach me to maintain it for a lifetime.
:)
Great video!! Love the idea of taking a picture and using colored tape for proper connection!! Once we did a wrong connection...it was a $1,000 mistake!!
Yeah.. penalty for fail lure is fairly severe
Videos like this are exactly why our next RV will come from Haylett RV......I only wish I had discovered your channel before we bought our 1st travel trailer from one of the "national chains". We are only a few hours away in the Metro Detroit area, 100% worth the drive. Great advice as always 'Uncle Josh' 😊
Thanks for joining us. Welcome to the #RVNerdHerd
And sounds like you'll also soon be a member of the #HaylettNation
Were it not nearly 1900 miles one way from where we live to Coldwater, Michigan, I would have been very tempted to buy from Haylett.
@@Hoomi2 I fully understand that's quite the hike and I cannot blame you for it. I wouldn't be doing my job if I didn't mention that folks have come from further... but yeah.. that's a drive lol :)
Thanks so much. Just keep watching and commenting and we'll call it square. Deal? :)
What about solar? Some are hardwired to the battery. Mine is and I have 3. But I park in covered storage. My solar doesn't make power. However, all 3 controllers I have pull power to give that Bluetooth connectivity.
Solar does a great job of tending the battery for sure. But if it's going to be really cold, then I do feel batteries should still be pulled and stored where it's not crazy freezing
And if the RV has solar and you pull the battery, then you need to either flip the solar disconnect (assuming the RV has one) or cover the panel so it doesn't burn out the controller with no battery in place
@@JoshtheRVNerd thanks, didn't think about controller issues with no batteries.
The only RV dealer that helps the RV'er with helpful videos. Thanks Josh. 😊
Ty man. I try
I live in 5th wheel in hot environment with hook ups,with nowhere to store battery in cool area.
What are my options?
I'll take it out for a week 3 times a year.
Basically what I have done for years my AGM battery is 10 years old and still going strong.
Use RED tape on your + terminal and cable. Use BLACK tape on the - terminal and cable. Keep it simple!
Full time rv’ers … being plugged into to shore power. Should battery be disconnected so it won’t be overcharged? Or does that matter ?
Leave it hooked up. Otherwise you’re causing your converter to work full time
An additional visual aid is to also mark your colored tapes with "+" and "-" as appropriate. This can be easier to see in poor light (assuming you have good contrast between your marks and the background color) when colors can be harder to determine.
So what you're saying is DON'T use "hunter green" and "Dark Green" together? Got it LOL :)
Youer right for years I work at a trucking company 200 trucks at are barn put a cut off switch on up at the battery never have a problem agen
Uncle Josh, your suggestion about taking a pic of the batt connection, THEN, suggesting color coding the pos and neg cables are GENIUS!!! So simple, yet, so NOT commonly done. Thanks, Unk@
Y'all Be Safe!
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then!
This is very important if you have an older model that has a red, white, and black wire. Black and white are both negative and red is positive. All negatives inside the RV are white, but the positives are a rainbow.
I have to agree with everyone here that this is a great video on batteries. I passed it on to my neighbor who just returned home with a nice Rockwood popup. She was/is grateful for the information. I did find it amusing that elementary school children are taught that there are "eight primary colors". It has been more than fifty years since I was in ART school but back then there were only three...
lol I've caught a lot of flack for my comment about the 8 crayons in a basic box which is what I meant
Obviously I'm not an art major. Just a silly RV nerd :)
@@JoshtheRVNerd Glad you could chuckle too...
Wow Uncle Josh you must have been reading my mind I did that exact same thing when I winterized my trailer A couple months ago
Great minds think alike?
Shared this with my sister that is new to RVing. She had a dead battery today when getting ready to go camping. No matter how many times I have told her to buy a tender. You explained it so well. Hope she buys a tender now.
They die annoying quickly left alone
A small solar panel can also do the trick nicely
Minor point with possible major consequence. Always disconnect the negative (black) terminal first. If you disconnect the positive (red) and let it contact metal, you might short the battery through the frame. Lots of sparks and excitement ensue.
Edit: the danger lies during disconnection. If you take off the positive first, and your wrench hits metal during, standby for fireworks and maybe worse.
Yes. Thank you
Once the red lead is disconnected there is no battery power on the red lead! Power is back at battery post which u are not connected to anymore.
@@billjones5178 I'm sorry. I was not clear. The danger lies in your ratchet contacting metal under the hood while you are removing the positive lead. Sparks fly, and you can even weld your wrench to the chassis, resulting in a runaway short and battery fire. Thank you.
@@billjones5178 I edited my original comment. Thanks again.
I put the disconnect switch on the battery case. Nothing is drawing power when it is turned off
I’m currently starting to renovate my RV an noticed nothing in the RV is working (I don’t have it plugged up as it is sitting in my backyard). I didn’t know what to do with my battery nor how to charge it (I know terrible lol) anyway this video was super helpful and the comments are too thank you so much!!
Thanks for the information. We have a new trailer and I was wondering why the battery is constantly draining sitting in the driveway.
Deltran Battery Tender Jr. are the BEST IMO. I use them on everything I own that has a 12v battery. They have literally eliminated battery early replacements in my world!
Ty for sharing!!
What a beautiful, simple tip on reconnecting the battery. Thank you Josh.
My wife says "Simple works best for you" lol
Easy fix put a 187-Series Circuit Breaker - Surface Mount 200A by Blue Sea System on the hot at the battery. zero trickle draw then. Also a Trickle charger is better for storage then a Maintainer charger. Maintainers can overcharge. Redarc also makes some AMAZING DC and charge controllers even if you want to use solar and never overcharge or have dead batteries.
Never set battery's on concrete without wood as barrier. Excellent advice. Most people don't know that.
TY
fall/winter season i take battery out put in basement on shelf where it is cool /warm place my battery is 5 years still strong
Keeping your batteries off the concrete floor can not be understate. I do not know how or why the cement seems to kill them, but as Josh said setting them in a block of wood makes a big difference.
Very true!
It's conductivity. The ground will suck any heat it can via direct contact thru that concrete. Wood is an AMAZING insulator & gives you a great buffer
www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/general-science-you-asked/concrete-truth-about-batteries-stored-concrete
Science says otherwise. An old-timers belief, and I'm an Old Timer.
There are a lot of RV videos on keeping the house batteries fresh. The very minimum is to keep a trickle charger on the batteries. Harbor Freight sells one for $5. Also its very important to never let lead acid batteries draw down below 50% of its capacity. It will kill the longevity of the battery. Solar panels are so cheap right now and are so easy to install (without drilling into the roof). Watch all the TH-cam video's on that. The solar panel keeps the battery well above 12.6 volts (about 100% charge). keeping a battery fully charged also prevents sulfation (another killer of batteries) Usually mine are about 13.2 volts. I don't like to disconnect the battery because you lose the memory of the radio presets and also I keep the fantastic fan going on low speed in the summer time as it gets pretty hot inside the coach. The solar panel can handle all these draws plus any parasitic draws you might have. I use the Ever Start Walmart deep cycle batteries for around $100 as lithium are just too expensive at $1000 each. Mine are going on 5 years now
Trickle Charger = BAD, Float or Smart Charger = GOOD . It's not the 70's anymore.
Have a 100watt solar panel on my rv and batteries are still dead
@@darrellthody6125 I've got all three types on six different vehicles. They all work . Granted the smart IC controlled charger can assess the condition of the battery better. Sometimes old technology is not that bad.
@@sherab2715 Is the system working? What is the voltage output of the solar panel to the solar charge controller? If the battery is dead than you could have a worn out battery that wont hold a charge. What is turned on in the RV that drains the batteries? A 100 watt panel delivers up to 6 amps to a battery. That would easily top off a battery in an RV being stored. I'm assuming the panel gets a good amount of daylight hours to even work. Have someone check out your system if you don't know how to.
Why do I need a battery if I always hook up other than the brakeaway switch which has already been bypassed?
Good to see you Josh! Always appreciate the videos and the tips!
More to come!
Hey, so . I thought this video was going to be another bull crapper video with false information that I was going to be like "no, no, no!" But....
Yes! You guys know what you're talking about!
I've been in RV, mechanics, automotive, AND battery industry for a while... I can say, I agree with everything! One simple thing to do while docked is to flip the charger off from the breaker once in a while if stationary... Thanks for actually giving full accurate info to your viewers
I try man. I certainly don’t get. All right and if you ever catch me stating something incorrectly, then please point it out. Giving good info is always the goal here
Haha! I love it! First time we went camping I swapped my battery lines and fried a conductor at my panel. Hard lesson learned. Great tips Unc. See you in your nightmares. -Freddy
Oh no!
Thanks Uncle Josh for some positive information on the negatives of RV battery life.
You bet!
Yes take a picture!!!! Omg talk about some high end cheese information there.
That has helped me out so much. Now when I walk around in my pants I feel fancy so now I am technically a fancy pants, who new. Tyvm
Yep, people forget about that "thing" in your pocket. It's a great tool.
Removing the battery for long-term parking also prevents one other potential costly problem - battery thieves. The battery that was stolen off our old popup was probably already bad, but the thief didn't unclamp the cables. They just cut them. If we were going to use the trailer again, not only would I need to replace the battery, I would need to repair the cut cables. New trailer has a lock and chain around the battery box, to hopefully at least slow down the thieves, if not deter them towards easier pickings.
Good point!
Constantly stressing your wife usually lowers YOUR lifespan. You still need to check fluid levels in the battery while stored.
lol true :)
But stretching your wife can expand both of your lives.
Robert here. We live way down south but really like your info. You are a good man. You have a lot of solutions. We'll look forward to see your next video.🙂
Wow, thank you
Great information Josh! Thanks again from Ontario Canada!
Cheers Jim!
The tape explanation was 😂. Great video. Save your $$$. Campers and camping is already expensive. Same your money for camping.
Great info. Excellent job, using Green Bay Packer's colors for your example.... #GoPackGo
LOL -- I was thinking of a sponge with an abrasive scrub pad but to each their own :)
My AGM batteries lasted 8 years. I always brought them in the garage and applied a battery maintainer during the off season.
Keeping them maintained is the key. Well done
Okay Josh - I'm a Granny in an RV. I stair at my Battery and it looks like the one you are showing. Which side do I open to check the water? And do I have to take off the terminals before I add water, and there looks to be some green crustiness to them, how do I clean that off, I'm afraid to get electrocuted. No I don't have anyone who can help me. Thank-you.
Without seeing your battery I am not able to really assist and guide you via purely text. I’m sorry
@@JoshtheRVNerd The one in this video, is identical...in the black covering , the front tongue in your thumb nail looks just like my trailer. Please do a little snippet on the maintenance of the battery, how to add watch, dangers if any. I would be so grateful. Thank-you so kindly for your quick response.
My early 2022 Rockwood 2205s was built with a red crimps on the negative frame ground cable. What’s worse, is in spite of a (easily lost) sticky white label around the red crimped ground end at the frame, they used the red crimp on the ground to battery connection as well!
AND, they used extra long cable for this ground and looped it into and back out of the cable access pathway toward the pass-through storage area. A tug on each cable suggested they are each connected inside the pass through to other terminations. But THE apparently ‘TWO’ cables are the same, looped in and back out of the circular cable port as you can see only from the underside of the trailer! In this case, it’s easy to be misled and reconnect a frame ground on the positive terminal. 😨
Taking a picture of the factory connection before removing wires off terminals is the best suggestion. Apparently someone did this, cuz the ground cable is too long to leave dangling freely. Neither end of this grounding cable should have been crimped with red, and the routing loop into and out of the trailer makes it difficult to know that the free end of the red factory cable termination crimp should go on the negative battery post!
A solar panel with a good charge controller can help too as long as the panel doesn't get snowed over in the winter. Don't need much just to maintain the battery.
Solar is great for battery tending but I really still recommend pulling the battery if it’s cold
@@JoshtheRVNerd Pulling it is the best option but my 300 watt solar system does not like being disconnected from the batteries (2). When the batteries are disconnected the charge controller gets confused as to whether the batteries a dead and sends full amps or full and shuts down. So without the batteries my battery connections would spend the winter cycling between 14.4 volts and 0 several times a minute. I'd have to probably put a disconnect to the panels themselves from the charge controller. I also have an onboard 2/4 amp tender which I plug in for the winter in case the panels do snow over, but if you are storing on a lot then you can't do that, so this solution won't work for most people. If I were storing at a lot I would definitely pull the batteries for winter and somehow disconnect the panels.
My trailer is a bit older so the fridge and hot water heater do not draw when off. I found my other trickle loads which were the entertainment system and the CO detector. They happen to both be on the same circuit so I pull that fuse for winter.
But ya, if all you have is a battery and not all this fancy stuff, I agree pull it and put it in the garage. It will freeze otherwise even if you disconnect it. Had that happen once on my old pop-up trailer, what a mess. Even though the battery was in a marine case, the case filled up with battery acid. Not fun to deal with.
Should have a disconnect switch between the panels and the controller.
I have a 2018 29rks had a battery problem just like that I disconnected the battery and it's good now thanks for your updates Phillip from Ludlow Falls Ohio
Awesome! Happy Camping!
Your voice and animation is very good, friendly and fun. Thanks for you and how you helped me.
Our pleasure!
I just put a couple battery warmers on my batteries and leave that plugged in all winter. The battery disconnect is flicked but the solar still charges. So it has trickle charge feed and the battery warmers prevent freezing in -40. This has worked well for me for the last 10 years.
As long as you're keeping the battery warm and tended you're good. Glad you took the precautions!
My camper has a battery shutoff switch located inside the forward storage compartment and I’m confident that it, and ANY such switch connected directly to the battery, creates the ‘open switch’ condition which allows NO electrical draw on the battery. Otherwise some great tips here!
Right on Josh, however - - remember though, some digital items may need to be reset unless they have their own small internal battery..
The battery trickle charger/maintainer is only a good thing. One point tho is to make certain the one you buy has a desulfation cycle as well as the bulk and float cycles.
I want to thank you so much. Watching your videos helped me out in my choice of a travel trailer. I bought a 2021 Jayco 224bh. We freakin love it. Thanks
Well then congratulations are in order! Since our videos proved helpful, then would you mind dropping us a review at www.haylettautoandrv.com/review-us/ in return for the efforts? It would mean a lot and cost you nothing! :)
So good I had to like and subscribe to all. I’m hoping my batteries will last longer. New Rv owners need to watch this and take notes. As we say in Maine, “You’re wicked smart”
Take out the battery at the end of the season and hook it up to a NoCo 3500 battery maintainer. Three years, no problems.
That was funny about your wife!!!! That's awesome sence of humor! Thanks!!!!!!
I bought a solar charger and hook it to the battery, works great and I do not have to unhook anything.
Good idea
i do this with my lawn mower battery, i'm on my 2nd battery now. (tractor is 17 years old).
Thank you for that straight forward and very helpful video! We’re about to start storing our travel trailer and this was extremely helpful! Much appreciated Sir!
Just disconnect the negative cable from the battery or add a battery switch to the battery box. I leave the battery on the RV all winter in NY state and it’s still fully charged in the Spring. I could even open the slide outs with it before hooking up 120 V power.
The Battery Tender brand of charger works perfectly for this application!
Hey Uncle Josh, I like these old videos of tips that you had produced prior to Bish’s. Keep reshowing or reproduce them with updated information. Happy camping.
I have been adding different tips since then and have glossed back over some of these haylett-era tips now and then. But if a video is still getting views, then I tend to just let it ride regardless of which name is on it
CTEK makes phenomenal battery maintainers/chargers, little pricey but like you stated, cheaper than a battery. I use mine for our camper in the off season and our towing truck when not in use, 2016 truck still running the OE ford battery
Hi Josh. LOVE your videos. They've helped me in lots of ways. I just bought a brand new Sunset Trail 253rb (from Bish's!). It has a switch for Power On, Power Off and "Remove Cover". I'm guessing that this would be the same as disconnecting the battery but wanted to check with the RVNerd.
Yeah that’s called the giggy box
Basically it’s your battery disconnect. Technically more than that.. but that’s all you really need to know about it as a user
DEEPLY appreciate yur info on how to better care for batteries. This type of information seems to only come from your RV company! THANKS!!!!!! Hey - maybe a future video on “how to” on maintenance for gas/diesel class A, B, C’s, 🤔. Keep up the GR8 work!!!!
Thanks for watching!
A battery disconnect should always be installed on the ground cable and as close as possible to the negative post on the battery. That way you can be certain that ALL circuits will be open when the switch is on. (On my RV the power tongue jack circuit seems to bypass the main panel since there's a dedicated fuse for the jack right near the battery) So, unless my RV has a second ground (which would probably be against code) there shouldn't be anything drawing power. When I disconnect the battery using the switch everything I can see that doesn't also have it's own battery (like a smoke detector) goes dark.
Excellent advice from ‘Uncle Josh”. Thanks for sharing. I am so pleased to be a member of the RV Nerd Herd.
Glad to have you! :)
Thank you for your informative videos. You've taught me quite a lot that will extend the life of my camper, and increase the enjoyment my wife and I get from my camper.
Great to hear!
Distilled water, battery maintainer and dont forget and VERY important keep top of battery clean this helps keep current from trying to traveling back and fourth between terminals!
Good point on the top cleaning
@Josh - You mentioned both a "battery charger" and a "battery maintainer". A battery maintainer is by default a battery charger, but a battery charger is not necessarily a battery maintainer. A battery charger can "cook" a battery. I keep my RV and boat batteries in my garage over the winter, off the floor and connected to marine style battery maintainers.
You can't just get any battery maintainer. It has to be designed for your battery, and if you own different types of batteries (lead acid, lead acid AGM, Lithium Ion) you'll need multiple maintainers or a maintainer that can switch between battery types.
Your colored tape suggestion is fantastic. Wish I though of that? Too easy. I have two batteries so I pulled out the label maker and printed up numerous left positive, L negative as well as R positive and R negative. Then attached them to all the wires for future reference. Probably a little overkill on my part....
Better than cross-wiring it!
The safety devices will drain a battery very quickly. And turning the power off does not turn these devices off.
I don't have my battery cables color coded but I do have the dump valve handles coded green for gray water tank red for black water tank [Red STOP don't pull] and on the weight distribution bars the chain link I fasten into is painted so don't have to count links every time
Smart!
So let's get technical here. There are trickle chargers and battery minders/maintainers. A trickle charger on a disconnected battery would also over charge at some point, correct? Now how about three stage converters? It is my understanding that WFCO 8955 is a three stage converter meaning there is "bulk" to charge a low battery, "absorb" to get a deep charge for deep cycle batteries like the ones usually on RVs and then there is "float" which means it senses what the battery needs and provides the right amount of energy...or am I am wrong here? In any case the battery water level needs periodic checking and use a hydrometer to check state of charge.
I revised the wiring in my trailer so that the battery disconnect switch is the only thing connected to the positive side of the batteries. That way, turning it to “OFF” will disconnect all loads. I just have to turn the switch back to “ON” before towing so the breakaway switch has power.
Mfgs can’t do that because it could disconnect the emergency brakes in the event of a brake away if the switch isn’t on
But otherwise yeah it’s a good call
Hey there Josh my comment is a techy needs to meet up with the new batteries exploding being close to a gas lines on a non-exclusive gas tank, not properly marked with red or caution. Seems like another possible safety hazard for those less experienced 🤔. And yes I exaggerated to make my points but seems to be effective along with the run on. Make up for jogging. Lol.pass it on!!?
Awesome bit of common sense mixed in with the proper sass!! I Love it! 👍🏻
Boom!
Great easy to follow tip for those not in the know. Thanks Uncle Josh.
Glad to help!!
It’s a good idea to disconnect the negative cable first
Absolutely. Thank you
My question is when plugged in at a campground we leave for the week we'll leave the battery switch on so if we lose power we have backup I would imagine the trailer monitors the battery when its full charge preventing overcharging
That should be fine
Josh, I was told by an Advance Auto tech that cold weather is the culprit that ruins batteries. Room temperature trickle charging is best he thinks. Batteries HATE the cold, charging or not.
I suggets finding another Tech. A trickle charger doesn't know whether a battery is fully charged or not and tries to continuously pump amps into a fully charger battery. That's bad. It's 2021, time for a Float or Smart charger. Trickle Chargers should be banned.
Also Consumer Reports disagrees with your TEch;
www.consumerreports.org/car-batteries/how-hot-weather-affects-your-car-battery-what-to-do-about-it/#:~:text=Summer%20heat%20is%20tougher%20on,the%20onset%20of%20battery%20failure.