To prevent any scratching or damaging a piece, just do this. Scan the nib, print new nibs and tidy them up with a good craft knife and magnifier. You'll always have nibs if you can print them, and it'll be very difficult to scratch plastic with plastic. Or you could always just use a feather quill, they're plentiful, hold even more ink, and can scribe a hairline if you can cut it fine enough.
I don’t think you can print the split in the nib with the accuracy you need to make it work well. Otherwise I guess you could also buy plastic nibs. The feather is a neat idea though!
@@evolutionxstudios You wouldn't need to print a nib 'perfectly', but even better. If it was printed as small as possible, without the slit, all you would have to do is cut one even smaller than is possible by stamping a sheet of metal. The blade of a scalpel will provide a thinner inkwell than could ever be bought from AliExpress!
I usually wet the surface with water and wipe away most of it with my finger. I leave it for a few seconds to dry and when I touch the brush it just flows into the recess. The area around the recess dries up - and the water remains only inside the recess. The ink / wash will spread there like magic :) Though the fountain pen idea that is showcased here is intriguing.
By the way - the thing I really like for the same purpose are manga brush pens. They sell them in a variety of sizes. It is a bit firmer than a brush and it gives you really really good control. I am not sure what paint is uses, but when I made a mistake it wiped away with finger. After I left it to dry it is rock solid. You might want to give that a go as well, if you do tons of panel lines.
Also a good idea! But don’t you get problems with opacity with the water in the recess, let’s say if you want to get a solid black line from the first go? I will check out those brushes too, thank you!
@@evolutionxstudios Not really - it depends how long you wait for evaporation. I have seen this trick on some gundam modellers instagram and it is really nice. It also depends on how strong you mixed the wash. With ink and acrylic washes it might not be enough - but with oil washes... I mean my mixes usually have so much pigment in them that it is not an issue at all. Plus if it was not enough, dip it again in the wash and add more pigment :) But I mean oils can be diluted a lot and they still have lots of pigment in them. Give it a go, I'd love to see how it works for you! I'll also try to find my fountain pen. I want to try this method from the video. I loved the part where you traced some protruding parts on the model. The water method does not work well if the part is not a recess. And it looks soooooooo nice to just pull the dip pen next to it!
I can easily tell you that nib is the School Pen- one of the popular ones for manga artists. You could also try and play with Speedball's Crowquill and Map nibs if you want something local/cheaper
Cool, looks a bit weird though, off topic but have u checked out the new Vallejo paints formula? They feel kinds thin and transparent and the coverage isn't as good as the old formula.
@@evolutionxstudios Only bought their Game Color Black and Model Air but asked around and all their Game Colors are like this and prob their Model Colors too, they're focusing on miniature painters. They aren't terrible but not as good as the old formula, will maybe test more of their colors i particularly like the old Model Color Glossy Black, want to see how the now one compares. The Air line barely covers the colors underneath, they recommend using a primer for coverage which is weird, what's the point of the colors then.
@@evolutionxstudios Lots Of ppl are liking the new Warpaints Fanatic, those have great coverage, Green Stuff World also has an opaque line with high pigment density.
You can buy a plastic fountain pen to avoid scratching the model and it will be much cheaper than this one. Or better yet, you can buy gunpla oil markers that are designed for this purpose
@@evolutionxstudios $15 vs say, $3-$4. Sure it looks nice and if people want to pay it, go nuts. but 4-5x the price for something that has been around unchanged for hundreds of years and marketed as some new type of hobby tool . . . ?
I used to think that capillary action wasn't exactly rocket science, now I'm not so sure 🤔 Just touch the nib to the panel line and let the liner flow on it's own. You don't need to 'write' with it and end up scratching the surface 🤷♂ The only reason it has a 'pen style' nib at all is just to hold more of the liquid through surface tension.
Most of the color is stored in the reservoir hole. But you have to apply a certain amount of pressure to the nib because that's what pushes the ink towards the tip and then onto the paper. I guess that's also the reason why a pen doesn't drip if you don't write. Another problem is the material itself. Plastic and pens don't work well together. Paper sucks up the ink, plastic doesn't. I guess that's why it's a bit harder to get it out of the pen.
I use mine with Tamiya panel liner and it flows so well once you dip it deep.
This is just an ink pen, we used them at school when I was young. I still have one somewhere.
To prevent any scratching or damaging a piece, just do this.
Scan the nib, print new nibs and tidy them up with a good craft knife and magnifier.
You'll always have nibs if you can print them, and it'll be very difficult to scratch plastic with plastic.
Or you could always just use a feather quill, they're plentiful, hold even more ink, and can scribe a hairline if you can cut it fine enough.
I don’t think you can print the split in the nib with the accuracy you need to make it work well. Otherwise I guess you could also buy plastic nibs. The feather is a neat idea though!
@@evolutionxstudios You wouldn't need to print a nib 'perfectly', but even better.
If it was printed as small as possible, without the slit, all you would have to do is cut one even smaller than is possible by stamping a sheet of metal.
The blade of a scalpel will provide a thinner inkwell than could ever be bought from AliExpress!
I usually wet the surface with water and wipe away most of it with my finger. I leave it for a few seconds to dry and when I touch the brush it just flows into the recess. The area around the recess dries up - and the water remains only inside the recess. The ink / wash will spread there like magic :) Though the fountain pen idea that is showcased here is intriguing.
By the way - the thing I really like for the same purpose are manga brush pens. They sell them in a variety of sizes. It is a bit firmer than a brush and it gives you really really good control. I am not sure what paint is uses, but when I made a mistake it wiped away with finger. After I left it to dry it is rock solid. You might want to give that a go as well, if you do tons of panel lines.
Also a good idea! But don’t you get problems with opacity with the water in the recess, let’s say if you want to get a solid black line from the first go?
I will check out those brushes too, thank you!
@@evolutionxstudios Not really - it depends how long you wait for evaporation. I have seen this trick on some gundam modellers instagram and it is really nice.
It also depends on how strong you mixed the wash. With ink and acrylic washes it might not be enough - but with oil washes... I mean my mixes usually have so much pigment in them that it is not an issue at all. Plus if it was not enough, dip it again in the wash and add more pigment :) But I mean oils can be diluted a lot and they still have lots of pigment in them.
Give it a go, I'd love to see how it works for you!
I'll also try to find my fountain pen. I want to try this method from the video. I loved the part where you traced some protruding parts on the model. The water method does not work well if the part is not a recess. And it looks soooooooo nice to just pull the dip pen next to it!
@@HuntersOA Thanks for sharing! I'll definitely try that method too.
Thanks for doing these test! Great video
Thanks man
I can easily tell you that nib is the School Pen- one of the popular ones for manga artists. You could also try and play with Speedball's Crowquill and Map nibs if you want something local/cheaper
thanks for the hint man!
How awesome 👍👍
Thank you 🙏🏻
Cool, looks a bit weird though, off topic but have u checked out the new Vallejo paints formula? They feel kinds thin and transparent and the coverage isn't as good as the old formula.
Thanks mate! I think I only have the new gun metal so far and there I didn't really notice a huge difference. But that doesn't sound good.
@@evolutionxstudios Only bought their Game Color Black and Model Air but asked around and all their Game Colors are like this and prob their Model Colors too, they're focusing on miniature painters. They aren't terrible but not as good as the old formula, will maybe test more of their colors i particularly like the old Model Color Glossy Black, want to see how the now one compares. The Air line barely covers the colors underneath, they recommend using a primer for coverage which is weird, what's the point of the colors then.
@@TheIcemanModdeler hmm okay. I'll check that out when ordering some re-supplies
@@evolutionxstudios Lots Of ppl are liking the new Warpaints Fanatic, those have great coverage, Green Stuff World also has an opaque line with high pigment density.
I am sure it has it uses and a nice gift idea!
Agree!
I actually use a fountain pen for panel lining
nice! Thanks for sharing
i used koh-i-noor pen or using crushed pastel chalk, diswashing soap and few drops of water
I’ll check that out too, thanks!
You can buy a plastic fountain pen to avoid scratching the model and it will be much cheaper than this one. Or better yet, you can buy gunpla oil markers that are designed for this purpose
Thanks for the tip!
Sooooo, it's literally a basic dip pen you get get for a couple of bucks?
That’s right. But in its defense, you also get this one for just a couple of bucks - and it looks really nice
@@evolutionxstudios $15 vs say, $3-$4. Sure it looks nice and if people want to pay it, go nuts. but 4-5x the price for something that has been around unchanged for hundreds of years and marketed as some new type of hobby tool . . . ?
I used to think that capillary action wasn't exactly rocket science, now I'm not so sure 🤔
Just touch the nib to the panel line and let the liner flow on it's own. You don't need to 'write' with it and end up scratching the surface 🤷♂
The only reason it has a 'pen style' nib at all is just to hold more of the liquid through surface tension.
Most of the color is stored in the reservoir hole. But you have to apply a certain amount of pressure to the nib because that's what pushes the ink towards the tip and then onto the paper.
I guess that's also the reason why a pen doesn't drip if you don't write. Another problem is the material itself. Plastic and pens don't work well together. Paper sucks up the ink, plastic doesn't. I guess that's why it's a bit harder to get it out of the pen.
@@evolutionxstudios I have and use the Dspiae pen. Dip it into Tamiya liner and touch it to the groove, job done 🤷♂
@@RichardJRussell Great if it works for you that well! Maybe the tamiya panel liner has a lower viscosity?
They pretend to have reinvented the fountain pen?
It’s not even a fountain pen, just a dip pen :D
🤔Comic G Pen
Should work the same yeah