Your not talking to a wall, your videos will be referred to and watched for many many years to come, I watch every video you post, even if it may not pertain to my truck or situation because you may have a tip or trick that can be applied to many other situations. THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEOS!
Gday mate, great informative and practical video. Especially enjoyed the lack of edits when things get tough. It shows just how hard shit can be! Well done 👍
Awesome video. The TM is very helpful as well for the disassembly. I wish you had this video when I did mine but the TM worked great for a me as an amateur. That snap ring on the input shaft bearing is a MFer. I finally gave up and let the trans shop that swapped my input shaft bearing get it on and off for me. You mentioned Waterloo Specialties for your overdrive kit. Just so people know they have all the correct bearings for this trans including the idler shaft bearings and thrust washers and the 14 rollers for the main shaft assembly.
Thank you so much for this video. I've been hoping for a video like this for a few years now. I bought a Spicer 3053a (new old stock like yours) about 5 years ago for a 71 F250 Crew that I have with an Isuzu 6bd1-t diesel. It was just about the only manual that mates up with the SAE #3 bellhousing. From day one, it has never stayed in 5th gear under load. Every shift into 5th gear, under acceleration it slowly backs out and eventually pops out of gear after about 5 seconds. If I let out of the throttle before it backs all the way out, it'll suck back into gear. So deceleration holds it in gear. I've since lived with it and just not used 5th gear which really sucks and i'm tired of doing that and ready to figure this out. Also a few years ago I lost the 2/3 synchro and just learned to match my shifts, but i've got a replacement synchro and with your video i'm ready to dive in and do this! I'm still baffled by the 5th gear thing though. The other day I was talking to my dad about it and he thought maybe some old sticky grease from sitting around in a warehouse for 50 or so years might be to blame and it kinda makes sense, but i'm not sure. Any thoughts there? He said i should dump some diesel fuel in there and run it for a while to loosen things up. To me that sounds like a terrible idea, but maybe I could do some cleaning while i'm in there. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Sounds like the 5th gear dogs that hold the slider in gear on the 4-5 synchro are bad. Likely that your transmission was a rebuilt and repacked unit, not new like you thought. Lots of times out of spec parts make it past inspection and get recycled. I've seen this before. Just replace the 4-5 synchro assembly.
My 5th gear pops out too. Sometimes it runs for a long time, sometimes it pops out after a few seconds. Can I fix that with the transmission in place? Mine isn't overdrive. Direct 5th.
I need your input.....have a Deuce that's been sitting too long. Shift lever was completely stuck. Took top cover off and things are rusty. Got it to move back and forth, but, no side to side movement. Have soaked for weeks in different oils. Any thoughts on how to free it up? I don't have the capability to totally disassemble the top cover.
That sounds good to me.....may be a stupid question, but, does a replacement shifter just fit correctly or do the shift forks have to be adjusted or fitted? Where is the best place to buy a replacement shift cover?
I’ve got a 67 m35a2,sometimes when I put it in gear or whenever I come to a stop it won’t shift out of gear and when I let the clutch out it won’t move like it is stuck between gears… Please help on any advice
if you use a off set pry bar and at the some time tap on the housing the .rear bearing will walk its self/ if you heat the inner part of the bearing the race not the cage it will slide off you don,t need to use a puller. i have rebuilt these this type and many others on daily for 40 years ..
Greetings, I have an M35 and I need to change the seal that goes between the engine and the transmission. I already removed the transmission, but I don't know how to remove the clutch. Could you explain to me how to remove it?
You need to remove the aluminum ring that the transmission bolts to ( the adapter ring) then remove all the clutch pressure plate bolts, drop clutch out, then remove the flywheel.
Yes it'll only mate with the hub one way, but it will go on both ways. So make sure it grabs the hub before you put it together. At least as far as I remember. It's been about two years now since I've been in one and things are getting fuzzy.
@@RageCzar I agree totally, Not just that but he has such a great personality that is just right for this work and could make even a bigger realty show on T.V.
you need to just take the bell housing off its a lot easier to remove the input shaft/ tap on the bearing with brass hammer and you can pull the snap ring off
@@shawnwright5332 so I only do phone calls and one on one messaging with patreon members. Otherwise it isn't fair to my members. I'm happy to help you here if I can, or I invite you to consider subscribing to our patreon to help support the channel.
Input shaft comes out the back. The gear won't physically fit through the front bearing bore in the case. Removing the bellhousing is pointless in this case because you still have to remove the throwout bearing guide to access the snap ring on the outside of the input bearing before you slide it out to the inside of the case. Don't need to remove the bellhousing to do that, so I've never seen any need to aside from the gasket leaking, which this one wasn't.
i should have clarified after you remove the main shaft then the imput shaft .i personally always disassemble the complete main shaft to check for any other Possible issues, and to clean out the housing of any debris . its all good like your videos ; ] @@tacticalrepair
I'm glad you guys are enjoying the videos. Really great when you guys comment and offer your thoughts. Sometimes I feel like I'm talking to a wall.
Your not talking to a wall, your videos will be referred to and watched for many many years to come, I watch every video you post, even if it may not pertain to my truck or situation because you may have a tip or trick that can be applied to many other situations. THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEOS!
Thanks. That means a lot. I'm not being depressed or anything, it's just nice to get more interaction you know.
@@matthewjones8620 same goes here for me Mathew , I agree with you.
Tactical repair is my favorite you tube channel.
Good video, comment about having a “good woman” that stands behind us is so true ...
You have bye far the best deuce and a half videos on TH-cam . thank you very much. 🙋♂️
I thought I was the only MV owner that still rocks skate shoes from his youth lol.
😂
As always, great video. Always enjoy watching your videos, rambling and hammer hitting and all. I've learned so much from your vids, keep em coming!
Thanks!
I will have to try to remember to document and record things when I start tearing into my M928A1 heap. @@tacticalrepair
Gday mate, great informative and practical video. Especially enjoyed the lack of edits when things get tough. It shows just how hard shit can be! Well done 👍
Awesome video. The TM is very helpful as well for the disassembly. I wish you had this video when I did mine but the TM worked great for a me as an amateur. That snap ring on the input shaft bearing is a MFer. I finally gave up and let the trans shop that swapped my input shaft bearing get it on and off for me. You mentioned Waterloo Specialties for your overdrive kit. Just so people know they have all the correct bearings for this trans including the idler shaft bearings and thrust washers and the 14 rollers for the main shaft assembly.
That's why i like your videos!! So i'm not the only one the mechanic God's F with!!
half the time it goes great until that one last bolt takes you an hour to remove lol
Thank you for showing how this stuff works. I have been meaning to install my OD kit for 2 years and your video's are a great reference
Used to rebuild these when I was stationed at Ft Knox back in the 80s
That's really cool.
Thank you so much for this video. I've been hoping for a video like this for a few years now. I bought a Spicer 3053a (new old stock like yours) about 5 years ago for a 71 F250 Crew that I have with an Isuzu 6bd1-t diesel. It was just about the only manual that mates up with the SAE #3 bellhousing. From day one, it has never stayed in 5th gear under load. Every shift into 5th gear, under acceleration it slowly backs out and eventually pops out of gear after about 5 seconds. If I let out of the throttle before it backs all the way out, it'll suck back into gear. So deceleration holds it in gear. I've since lived with it and just not used 5th gear which really sucks and i'm tired of doing that and ready to figure this out. Also a few years ago I lost the 2/3 synchro and just learned to match my shifts, but i've got a replacement synchro and with your video i'm ready to dive in and do this! I'm still baffled by the 5th gear thing though. The other day I was talking to my dad about it and he thought maybe some old sticky grease from sitting around in a warehouse for 50 or so years might be to blame and it kinda makes sense, but i'm not sure. Any thoughts there? He said i should dump some diesel fuel in there and run it for a while to loosen things up. To me that sounds like a terrible idea, but maybe I could do some cleaning while i'm in there. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Sounds like the 5th gear dogs that hold the slider in gear on the 4-5 synchro are bad. Likely that your transmission was a rebuilt and repacked unit, not new like you thought. Lots of times out of spec parts make it past inspection and get recycled. I've seen this before. Just replace the 4-5 synchro assembly.
My 5th gear pops out too. Sometimes it runs for a long time, sometimes it pops out after a few seconds. Can I fix that with the transmission in place? Mine isn't overdrive. Direct 5th.
awesome video!!
I need your input.....have a Deuce that's been sitting too long. Shift lever was completely stuck. Took top cover off and things are rusty. Got it to move back and forth, but, no side to side movement. Have soaked for weeks in different oils. Any thoughts on how to free it up?
I don't have the capability to totally disassemble the top cover.
If it was me, I'd just get a new old stock or good used top cover assembly. They're not terribly expensive.
That sounds good to me.....may be a stupid question, but, does a replacement shifter just fit correctly or do the shift forks have to be adjusted or fitted?
Where is the best place to buy a replacement shift cover?
@@zanenelson8564 there's no adjustments necessary. Bolts right on. Try bigmikesmotorpool.com, memphisequiment.com, TNJmurray.com, army6x6parts.com
Could you have used the cummins transmission or did you have to use the stock one?
I’ve got a 67 m35a2,sometimes when I put it in gear or whenever I come to a stop it won’t shift out of gear and when I let the clutch out it won’t move like it is stuck between gears… Please help on any advice
Sounds like you need to just replace the whole transmission top cover assembly. They get worn and do that.
if you use a off set pry bar and at the some time tap on the housing the .rear bearing will walk its self/ if you heat the inner part of the bearing the race not the cage it will slide off you don,t need to use a puller. i have rebuilt these this type and many others on daily for 40 years ..
Great video!!
can that rear output bearing be changed with the trans still in the truck. without opening up the top cover. it looks like it could be done
Greetings, I have an M35 and I need to change the seal that goes between the engine and the transmission. I already removed the transmission, but I don't know how to remove the clutch. Could you explain to me how to remove it?
You need to remove the aluminum ring that the transmission bolts to ( the adapter ring) then remove all the clutch pressure plate bolts, drop clutch out, then remove the flywheel.
Im replacing all of the synchros can I still do that while leaving the transition on the truck
Yes.
Can we get ahold of the waterloo guy and see If he could start making the OD Kits again???
I'm good friends with him. He has no plans or intentions of making them ever again.
@@tacticalrepair dang ok bro
Have you found anyone that has a full kit for a rebuild for this transmission? And have you seen any modified input bearing retainer?
Does it matter which way the 4th/5th synchro goes in ?
Yes it'll only mate with the hub one way, but it will go on both ways. So make sure it grabs the hub before you put it together.
At least as far as I remember. It's been about two years now since I've been in one and things are getting fuzzy.
Can you repost the link to The guy you get parts from Mike's
Is it possible to replace the 2-3 synchro with the trans still in ?
yes, easily.
So what was the issue up with the transmission
At this point it's been so long and I've done so many that I can't remember anymore.
Ha Ha
You should wear gloves when using a harbor freight impact. Wouldn’t want to catch cooties. 🤣
What weight oil do you refill m35a2 transmission with?
Non detergent 30wt or 40wt
You can also use synthetic 75w90 if it is brass synchro safe, like Royal Purple, Redline MT-90, etc.
Tactical Repair thank you so much, please don’t stop making videos your like my go to for when I need to know how to fix stuff on my deuce.
@@RageCzar I agree totally, Not just that but he has such a great personality that is just right for this work and could make even a bigger realty show on T.V.
Reusing cutter pins damages my soul.
It did get replaced. Just had to locate my set.
you need to just take the bell housing off its a lot easier to remove the input shaft/ tap on the bearing with brass hammer and you can pull the snap ring off
Hopefully some day you will make enough money to buy an adjustable work bench so you can sit or stand while you are working
That would be nice.
@@tacticalrepair would like to call you to ask a few questions you could send me a message at sbewright@hotmail.com thanks
@@shawnwright5332 so I only do phone calls and one on one messaging with patreon members. Otherwise it isn't fair to my members. I'm happy to help you here if I can, or I invite you to consider subscribing to our patreon to help support the channel.
@@tacticalrepair ok how do you become a Patreon member?
@@shawnwright5332 follow the link and select the tier that suits you best. Totally up to you.
www.patreon.com/Tacticalrepair
The engine is a hercules multi fuel
Mine was Continental, but yes Hercules did make them too.
its easier if you take the bell housing off and remove the input shaft in order to remove the main shaft
Input shaft comes out the back. The gear won't physically fit through the front bearing bore in the case. Removing the bellhousing is pointless in this case because you still have to remove the throwout bearing guide to access the snap ring on the outside of the input bearing before you slide it out to the inside of the case. Don't need to remove the bellhousing to do that, so I've never seen any need to aside from the gasket leaking, which this one wasn't.
i should have clarified after you remove the main shaft then the imput shaft .i personally always disassemble the complete main shaft to check for any other Possible issues, and to clean out the housing of any debris . its all good like your videos ; ] @@tacticalrepair