Nice score. Very bulletproof machines, and around here, they were purchased by the thousands, and put into commercial service by all of the local mow-and-blow companies. I snap them up whenever I can still find them, along with their big brother, the T282. Just purchased a T282 a couple weeks ago for 10 bucks, and parts should be here in a couple days. That rebuild will be in a video, soon.
Well congrats on bringing it back from the dead and making it an official James Bond tool once again! The only thing I was hoping you were going to need to make a high and low adjustment, and just to see where that low one was located I think it’s down the barrel of the carburetor itself but still it’s pretty tricky to find.. anyWho I’m in Pismo Beach California, As the Gardener of Eden I’m gonna be 55 and I’m still doing it 27 years later and I’m still by myself rolling the power of one thanks for the tips brother appreciate you take care I’ll keep tuning in🤘🏽
@@austinado16 Dude small world indeed wow🤙🏽 Raphi at Apex Tool Sharpening use to cover us 5 cities brolio’s, but since he retired the only game in town is noble but nobles always been good I bought a lot of equipment from them! I gotta hand it to you man I can’t whip with the guard on, so you’re a special kind of whip master🤘🏽 right on dude well I’ll keep tuning in fellow 805 Juggernaut …
thanks for this! i have one that stopped working a few years ago. it being spring. i'm going to go into it and see what i can do now that i have a good view of what's inside and what to look for.
Good luck! IMO, they are infinitely repairable and rebuildable, and the overall quality is so much better than anything available today. Do a compression test to see what condition the piston rings and cylinder walls are in. If compression is above 120ish, you're good to go(and spend some time and money on it). Most of them have clogged exhaust ports, so inspect and clean as needed, because they either won't run at all, or will only bog, or won't reach full power, if that port is even partially coated with carbon build up. If the fuel tank reeks of old fuel, don't waste time with the carburetor, fuel hoses, and fuel filter. Just replace them, so that you have a guaranteed excellent result per what you spend. Don't install chinese kits or carburetors, as they are almost always some level of failed/bad. Once you have it running again, remove the drive shaft from the drive tube, give it a coating of grease, and re-install it. Remove the bolt from the side of the gear head, and push grease into the gear head assembly. Don't use white lithium for either location. Not uncommon for them to have a failed ignition coil, so don't hesitate to replace it. Sometimes it causes them to not start or run at all. Other times they will pop and backfire while pull starting them, but not start. And other times, they'll run, but they won't take throttle, and just bog, because the solid state timing advance circuit has failed. The coils are sold based on serial number, so be sure to look up the correct part number, using your serial number. New NGK BPM8Y spark plug, and an air filter, and you'll be back in business!
Thank you so much for your presentation quite enjoyed it. The problem I have with my old shindaiwa is, I’ve recently installed a new carburettor, non genuine, I struggle with the pull start, as if it’s got huge pressure. With the spark plug removed it ‘s ok. Is there anything i can do, to allow me to turn it over ? Kind regards Rick
Hello Rick, The aftermarket carburetors are typically junk right out of the box. If you still have the old carburetor, you may have some luck swapping the soft parts from the fake carburetor, into the original carburetor. Otherwise, you'll need to just replace the carburetor with the correct OE carburetor. www.partstree.com is a great resource for parts and who I typically purchase from.
I noticed the ignition coil part numbers were different in your two separate 242 videos: A411001540 and A411001541. Do you know what the difference is? Timing? My C242 SN takes the A411001541, would both coils work?
I believe there some difference in the timing, because I once made a mistake and grabbed the wrong coil. The engine would run, but it wouldn't take throttle, and sounded like it had a clogged spark arrester. I learned to pay attention to the serial numbers after that!
The M231 and M242 Power Heads both use the 65000 series of attachments. The challenge now is that Shindaiwa has been absorbed into Echo, and both the Echo and "Shindaiwa" badged power heads now use Echo's system of attachments, which are 66000 series. Echo/Shindaiwa has stopped manufacturing the upper drive tube and it's drive shaft, that fit the M231 and M242, and their 65000 series attachments. So while you can still purchase just the articulating hedge trimmer head, which fits the AH and AS hedge trimmers, and the M power heads, you'd need the drive tube from your old hedge trimmer attachment in order to use it. Be careful purchasing something like this from Amazon, because it may be a cheap replica, so it won't fit, and/or won't last. There are sellers on ebay, both here in the US and in the UK, who occasionally have the 65000 series hedge trimmers, or the correct short drive tubes.
@@Efffshams You're welcome! I looked at the one on Amazon. The brand name that starts with a "Y" and it appears to be an exact replica of the original Shindaiwa 65003 articulating hedge trimmer attachment. If you're using the machine as a homeowner, I'd go for it. When it arrives, use a grease gun and via the 2 zerk fittings, pack the gear case and the pivot gears with a good quality grease of your choice, give the blades a shot of TriFlow, and see how it does. The factory units all suffered from the same wear damage: Right at the opening of the upper aluminum gear box housing, where the blades come out, that aluminum opening would get worn really wide, because the blades want to move sideways as they exit and enter that opening. So keep the Amazon unit greased, and don't let the blade bolts get worn thin in their shanks (or purchase the hardened OEM bolts) in order to keep the side thrust of the blades to a minimum. You might get years of use out of it with a little extra care. Cool find, and I appreciate you telling me about them. I always try to rescue the M231/M242 powerheads when I can find them, along with any 65000 series attachments, but it's getting more and more difficult. Handy combination of tools, especially for a homeowner, and especially here in CA with battery junk being the only thing that's available now.
That's a great suggestion. I occasionally get machines that have noisy or failed bearing in that location. Next time I have one, I'll shoot a short video. In the meantime, if you look at the parts diagram here: www.partstree.com/models/t-242-shindaiwa-string-trimmer-sn-t73814001001-t73814999999/fan-cover-clutch-5/ You'll see a big rubber sleeve bushing #3, that's held in place by an inside snap-ring #2. Remove that snap-ring. Give the bushing a little bit of penetrant on the outer area, wiggle it a bit to wick in that penetrant, and then pull it out. This will give you enough space to use a standard pair of snap-ring pliers, as long as they are the smallest size, so that they aren't to large for the amount of space you have. And don't be gentle with the snap-ring. Just spread it wide, which will bend it, but make it slide right up. Otherwise you'll be fitting it. You can re-use it by crimping it back into a round shape, using a pair of pliers. Or order a new one, when you order the other parts that you wind up needing.
@@austinado16 I greatly appreciate that. This has been a great trimmer in the 12 years I've owned it the only repairs it has ever needed was a line head twice. Since Echo bought Shindaiwa local dealers and repair shops have stopped working on them because getting parts from the company is a fight anymore.
@@dustinpittman1743 Shindaiwa was just merged and had been sharing machines, like their chainsaws, with Echo brand name, for a long time. Parts are readily available for Shindaiwa, as they are made in the same plant, as Echo, in Chicago. It's no problem to service, repair, or even rebuild a 242 machine, whether a powerhead, a string trimmer, or an articulating hedge trimmer. I'm glad I could help you out!
You'll have to come up with a way to hold onto the plate that the bolt is threaded into, and keep it stationary so that you can spin your bolt in the tightening direction when facing it, which is what will loosen it. Typically that base plate has a notch that lines up with a notch in the gear head, and you can use a correctly sized allen key, or similar, to lock the base plate and keep it from spinning. You can see the notch on part #17 in this parts diagram: www.partstree.com/models/t-242-x-shindaiwa-string-trimmer-sn-t73914001001-t73914999999/gear-case-s-n-7/
Just bought a used one that was used once, for 50 bucks from a friend… he is a stihl man and it was a gift 😊😊😊
Nice score. Very bulletproof machines, and around here, they were purchased by the thousands, and put into commercial service by all of the local mow-and-blow companies. I snap them up whenever I can still find them, along with their big brother, the T282. Just purchased a T282 a couple weeks ago for 10 bucks, and parts should be here in a couple days. That rebuild will be in a video, soon.
Well congrats on bringing it back from the dead and making it an official James Bond tool once again! The only thing I was hoping you were going to need to make a high and low adjustment, and just to see where that low one was located I think it’s down the barrel of the carburetor itself but still it’s pretty tricky to find.. anyWho I’m in Pismo Beach California, As the Gardener of Eden I’m gonna be 55 and I’m still doing it 27 years later and I’m still by myself rolling the power of one thanks for the tips brother appreciate you take care I’ll keep tuning in🤘🏽
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment. I'm also in the 805.
@@austinado16 Dude small world indeed wow🤙🏽 Raphi at Apex Tool Sharpening use to cover us 5 cities brolio’s, but since he retired the only game in town is noble but nobles always been good I bought a lot of equipment from them! I gotta hand it to you man I can’t whip with the guard on, so you’re a special kind of whip master🤘🏽 right on dude well I’ll keep tuning in fellow 805 Juggernaut …
thanks for this! i have one that stopped working a few years ago. it being spring. i'm going to go into it and see what i can do now that i have a good view of what's inside and what to look for.
Good luck! IMO, they are infinitely repairable and rebuildable, and the overall quality is so much better than anything available today. Do a compression test to see what condition the piston rings and cylinder walls are in. If compression is above 120ish, you're good to go(and spend some time and money on it). Most of them have clogged exhaust ports, so inspect and clean as needed, because they either won't run at all, or will only bog, or won't reach full power, if that port is even partially coated with carbon build up. If the fuel tank reeks of old fuel, don't waste time with the carburetor, fuel hoses, and fuel filter. Just replace them, so that you have a guaranteed excellent result per what you spend. Don't install chinese kits or carburetors, as they are almost always some level of failed/bad.
Once you have it running again, remove the drive shaft from the drive tube, give it a coating of grease, and re-install it. Remove the bolt from the side of the gear head, and push grease into the gear head assembly. Don't use white lithium for either location.
Not uncommon for them to have a failed ignition coil, so don't hesitate to replace it. Sometimes it causes them to not start or run at all. Other times they will pop and backfire while pull starting them, but not start. And other times, they'll run, but they won't take throttle, and just bog, because the solid state timing advance circuit has failed. The coils are sold based on serial number, so be sure to look up the correct part number, using your serial number.
New NGK BPM8Y spark plug, and an air filter, and you'll be back in business!
@@austinado16 cool beans. thank you! do have a place or brand for parts you might recommend?
@@rickolson1738 I typically use partstree, ereplacementparts, and ebay.
@@austinado16 cool. thank you!
@@rickolson1738 You're welcome! Happy to help!
Thank you so much for your presentation quite enjoyed it. The problem I have with my old shindaiwa is, I’ve recently installed a new carburettor, non genuine, I struggle with the pull start, as if it’s got huge pressure. With the spark plug removed it ‘s ok. Is there anything i can do, to allow me to turn it over ? Kind regards Rick
Hello Rick,
The aftermarket carburetors are typically junk right out of the box. If you still have the old carburetor, you may have some luck swapping the soft parts from the fake carburetor, into the original carburetor. Otherwise, you'll need to just replace the carburetor with the correct OE carburetor. www.partstree.com is a great resource for parts and who I typically purchase from.
I noticed the ignition coil part numbers were different in your two separate 242 videos: A411001540 and A411001541. Do you know what the difference is? Timing? My C242 SN takes the A411001541, would both coils work?
I believe there some difference in the timing, because I once made a mistake and grabbed the wrong coil. The engine would run, but it wouldn't take throttle, and sounded like it had a clogged spark arrester. I learned to pay attention to the serial numbers after that!
Will a ah242 amazon hedge trimmer fit a m242? Jus curious if you'd know thanks.
The M231 and M242 Power Heads both use the 65000 series of attachments. The challenge now is that Shindaiwa has been absorbed into Echo, and both the Echo and "Shindaiwa" badged power heads now use Echo's system of attachments, which are 66000 series.
Echo/Shindaiwa has stopped manufacturing the upper drive tube and it's drive shaft, that fit the M231 and M242, and their 65000 series attachments. So while you can still purchase just the articulating hedge trimmer head, which fits the AH and AS hedge trimmers, and the M power heads, you'd need the drive tube from your old hedge trimmer attachment in order to use it.
Be careful purchasing something like this from Amazon, because it may be a cheap replica, so it won't fit, and/or won't last.
There are sellers on ebay, both here in the US and in the UK, who occasionally have the 65000 series hedge trimmers, or the correct short drive tubes.
@@austinado16 must appreciate the feed back man. Big thanks
@@Efffshams You're welcome! I looked at the one on Amazon. The brand name that starts with a "Y" and it appears to be an exact replica of the original Shindaiwa 65003 articulating hedge trimmer attachment. If you're using the machine as a homeowner, I'd go for it. When it arrives, use a grease gun and via the 2 zerk fittings, pack the gear case and the pivot gears with a good quality grease of your choice, give the blades a shot of TriFlow, and see how it does. The factory units all suffered from the same wear damage: Right at the opening of the upper aluminum gear box housing, where the blades come out, that aluminum opening would get worn really wide, because the blades want to move sideways as they exit and enter that opening. So keep the Amazon unit greased, and don't let the blade bolts get worn thin in their shanks (or purchase the hardened OEM bolts) in order to keep the side thrust of the blades to a minimum. You might get years of use out of it with a little extra care.
Cool find, and I appreciate you telling me about them. I always try to rescue the M231/M242 powerheads when I can find them, along with any 65000 series attachments, but it's getting more and more difficult. Handy combination of tools, especially for a homeowner, and especially here in CA with battery junk being the only thing that's available now.
@@austinado16 Thanks again sir. Big help.
@@Efffshams Happy to help. If you wind up getting that unit, I hope you'll report back on the fit/quality/function.
Todd could you please make a video showing how to remove the Circlip from the clutch drum shaft? I can't find a tool that will grip the clip.
That's a great suggestion. I occasionally get machines that have noisy or failed bearing in that location. Next time I have one, I'll shoot a short video.
In the meantime, if you look at the parts diagram here: www.partstree.com/models/t-242-shindaiwa-string-trimmer-sn-t73814001001-t73814999999/fan-cover-clutch-5/
You'll see a big rubber sleeve bushing #3, that's held in place by an inside snap-ring #2. Remove that snap-ring. Give the bushing a little bit of penetrant on the outer area, wiggle it a bit to wick in that penetrant, and then pull it out. This will give you enough space to use a standard pair of snap-ring pliers, as long as they are the smallest size, so that they aren't to large for the amount of space you have. And don't be gentle with the snap-ring. Just spread it wide, which will bend it, but make it slide right up. Otherwise you'll be fitting it. You can re-use it by crimping it back into a round shape, using a pair of pliers. Or order a new one, when you order the other parts that you wind up needing.
@@austinado16 I greatly appreciate that. This has been a great trimmer in the 12 years I've owned it the only repairs it has ever needed was a line head twice. Since Echo bought Shindaiwa local dealers and repair shops have stopped working on them because getting parts from the company is a fight anymore.
@@austinado16 wait your seriously telling me that #3 actually comes out?!
@@dustinpittman1743 As you seen in the diagram, yes.
@@dustinpittman1743 Shindaiwa was just merged and had been sharing machines, like their chainsaws, with Echo brand name, for a long time. Parts are readily available for Shindaiwa, as they are made in the same plant, as Echo, in Chicago. It's no problem to service, repair, or even rebuild a 242 machine, whether a powerhead, a string trimmer, or an articulating hedge trimmer.
I'm glad I could help you out!
I hold a shop vacuum cleaner next to port while I’m cleaning carbon out 😊😊😊
That's a cool way to do it!
Hey,
I'm trying to remove the bolt in the head of my shin T242X so I can put my brush blade on. It's backward threads, still not able to remove bolt
You'll have to come up with a way to hold onto the plate that the bolt is threaded into, and keep it stationary so that you can spin your bolt in the tightening direction when facing it, which is what will loosen it. Typically that base plate has a notch that lines up with a notch in the gear head, and you can use a correctly sized allen key, or similar, to lock the base plate and keep it from spinning.
You can see the notch on part #17 in this parts diagram: www.partstree.com/models/t-242-x-shindaiwa-string-trimmer-sn-t73914001001-t73914999999/gear-case-s-n-7/