just found your channel. Very cool. Im on my third evo 9... planning on adding a 5 and 10 before I'm in the ground. Love these cars!! We need to pressure some of the bigger oem-like part manufacturers to start producing replacements for now discontinued parts. Good example is ct9a evo fenders run for 1200 each. While you can find replacement oem-quality ones for regular lancer for $49.99. Now imagine this across the board on relatively easy to produce parts. We have to keep these cars alive for good.
Man, thank you so much for the kind words. I was literally having the same thought this morning as I was looking at some of the prices people want for used OEM parts for these cars. I was searching for OEM caliper mounting bolts and the cost per bolt was $20 🥴. I love this car and hope I can preserve it and enjoy it for many years to come.
When car is stone cold, fill up coolant reservoir to low level only for evo 456. It will expand into it when the cars hot and suck back in overnight when cooling down. If you fill it too high it will push excess out the overflow hose when driving or at set of lights
I replaced the hood heat shield on my evo 6 with a brand new one , which are still available new but I'm not sure if the e4 are available. However like the drip mouldings... they're usually too expensive to ship or not available to ship. Some people in Australia do ok when they buy 10-20 of them from at once from Japan which helps spread the shipping costs. you can fix that bonnet vent by plastic welding a new little post on it and get another "razor blade" clip for it. A lot of parts are identical on the basic CE Lancer (if you got them) so you might find new seatbelts from a Wrecker/dismantler in your country. First thing I would do would be to remove the rear suspension, diff and fuel tank to find out how bad the chassis legs are. If they need replacing (like they do on my white evo 6) you can use evo 7,8,9 rails too with only slight mods.
Amazing advice. Thank you. I haven't even been able to find the heat shield online as of yet, but haven't made a concerted effort to source. As for the chassis legs, I plan to dig into it soon. When going through it the metal underneath seemed hard. Also the fuel neck was in good condition and the metal around the fuel door was also good. In addition, I checked in the trunk under the spare tire and all the metal is hard and little rust visible. Fingers crossed that when I dig into it further I don't find anything lurking.
I would also take off the side skirts to remove the foam block on the inside of them as it holds all the water which rots the corners of the car in front of the rear wheels! Just had mine taken off and has revealed very bad rust! Just a preventative measure if it’s not been removed already!
Are you aware that the Evo IV/V/VI all share a chassis code with the Mirage sedan sold from 1997-2001 in NA? Same moldings for door and roof. You're getting ripped off buying those kinds of parts from abroad.
@@shautohaus Go easy on the fixes. Many would say that the journey matters but in your case I believe the destination matters more -- destination being the track!
I wonder if they make plates you can weld onto the body where the rear subframe bolts for extra strength. It's a must do mod on a bmw e36 or else the subframe rips through the sheet metal of the car. If you search bmw rear subframe reinforcement, you will get a lot of good ideas. Great videos keep them coming!
They have lots of braces for the car. There is a subframe brace that goes on the underside of the vehicle near the transmission. There are strut tower braces for the front and rear, was well as another brace that goes in the trunk on the frame right infront of the rear bumper. Lots of great options for stiffening the body of the car. I actually looked a car here in Atlanta that had all of those and was clearly used as a track vehicle previously, but it was in a bit rougher shape than this car.
Keep up the content, subbed. Love to see anything and everything , show some of the hands on DIY stuff when you start doing it
Thanks so much man. Really appreciate the comment and support 🙏🏽
just found your channel. Very cool. Im on my third evo 9... planning on adding a 5 and 10 before I'm in the ground. Love these cars!!
We need to pressure some of the bigger oem-like part manufacturers to start producing replacements for now discontinued parts. Good example is ct9a evo fenders run for 1200 each. While you can find replacement oem-quality ones for regular lancer for $49.99. Now imagine this across the board on relatively easy to produce parts. We have to keep these cars alive for good.
Man, thank you so much for the kind words. I was literally having the same thought this morning as I was looking at some of the prices people want for used OEM parts for these cars. I was searching for OEM caliper mounting bolts and the cost per bolt was $20 🥴. I love this car and hope I can preserve it and enjoy it for many years to come.
When car is stone cold, fill up coolant reservoir to low level only for evo 456. It will expand into it when the cars hot and suck back in overnight when cooling down. If you fill it too high it will push excess out the overflow hose when driving or at set of lights
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.
I replaced the hood heat shield on my evo 6 with a brand new one , which are still available new but I'm not sure if the e4 are available. However like the drip mouldings... they're usually too expensive to ship or not available to ship. Some people in Australia do ok when they buy 10-20 of them from at once from Japan which helps spread the shipping costs. you can fix that bonnet vent by plastic welding a new little post on it and get another "razor blade" clip for it. A lot of parts are identical on the basic CE Lancer (if you got them) so you might find new seatbelts from a Wrecker/dismantler in your country. First thing I would do would be to remove the rear suspension, diff and fuel tank to find out how bad the chassis legs are. If they need replacing (like they do on my white evo 6) you can use evo 7,8,9 rails too with only slight mods.
Amazing advice. Thank you. I haven't even been able to find the heat shield online as of yet, but haven't made a concerted effort to source. As for the chassis legs, I plan to dig into it soon. When going through it the metal underneath seemed hard. Also the fuel neck was in good condition and the metal around the fuel door was also good. In addition, I checked in the trunk under the spare tire and all the metal is hard and little rust visible. Fingers crossed that when I dig into it further I don't find anything lurking.
@@shautohaus ok cool. Let me know if I can help
I would also take off the side skirts to remove the foam block on the inside of them as it holds all the water which rots the corners of the car in front of the rear wheels!
Just had mine taken off and has revealed very bad rust!
Just a preventative measure if it’s not been removed already!
Great tip.
Are you aware that the Evo IV/V/VI all share a chassis code with the Mirage sedan sold from 1997-2001 in NA? Same moldings for door and roof. You're getting ripped off buying those kinds of parts from abroad.
Yes and I also source parts from Rock Auto and local Mitsubishi dealers. If you watch my first video I mention my first ever car was a 1998 Mirage.
If you can't punch a hole with a screwdriver, you're good. : )
I was sweating there for a minute Jay 😰
@@shautohaus Go easy on the fixes. Many would say that the journey matters but in your case I believe the destination matters more -- destination being the track!
I wonder if they make plates you can weld onto the body where the rear subframe bolts for extra strength.
It's a must do mod on a bmw e36 or else the subframe rips through the sheet metal of the car.
If you search bmw rear subframe reinforcement, you will get a lot of good ideas.
Great videos keep them coming!
They have lots of braces for the car. There is a subframe brace that goes on the underside of the vehicle near the transmission. There are strut tower braces for the front and rear, was well as another brace that goes in the trunk on the frame right infront of the rear bumper. Lots of great options for stiffening the body of the car. I actually looked a car here in Atlanta that had all of those and was clearly used as a track vehicle previously, but it was in a bit rougher shape than this car.