Hat Yai Update | 26 May 2023
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2023
- Video Description
I rarely go into central Hat Yai these days, but now and again I'll take a look around just to see what has changed. That's what I did today, and I took a camera along to share the experience.
Shops close. New shops open. Restaurants close. New restaurants open. It's always changing, but in many ways it stays the same. The biggest change to ever hit Hat Yai was in 2013 when Central Festival opened. That single event caused a mass exodus of people and businesses, who moved away from Lee Gardens Plaza to relocate at Central Festival. The town has never been quite the same since.
Despite this, the Lee Gardens Plaza area still remains popular with tourists and that's where you can still find the old, traditional markets along with many massage shops.
How I Book Hotels In Thailand And Elsewhere
Having lived in Thailand since 2003, I have booked many hotels while travelling around the country. Occasionally, I have spent an enormous amount of time trying to find the best deal. However, I almost invariably end up booking through Agoda. Not only are Agoda rates almost always the lowest, but it is a company I have learnt to trust over the years. In 2023 there were stories about another large online hotel Booking company (whose name I won't mention) who failed to pay accommodation hosts and whose customers turned up at hotels to find that they did not have a reservation. I have never had any such problems with Agoda, and the few minor issues I've had have been dealt with efficiently by their customer service representatives.
Agoda is a company I trust and recommend. Use the following link to book your next hotel room!
www.agoda.com/partners/partne...
Disclaimer. I am an Agoda affiliate and will receive a small commission for any completed bookings that are made through my links. However, I only promote goods and services that I am happy with and use myself.
Are You Interested In Learning How To Read Basic Thai?
Being able to read enough basic Thai so that you can negotiate menus and read signs is incredibly useful, and it's not that difficult. It's not like Japanese or Chinese, where you have to remember thousands of characters. Like English, it's just consonants and vowels. Yes, there are more characters than English, but phonetically Thai is a lot more consistent. English vowels and vowel combinations change sound in different words (cough, rough, through, thought, bough, etc). In many ways, Thais is actually easier to learn than English. If you are interested, try the tutorials on my other TH-cam channel. With some effort and dedication, you will be able to read quite well after around six months.
/ learntoreadthai
Thank You for the Update,Well Done...🤗🤗🤗
Thanks for your comment!
I have be a regular watching your video on TH-cam..You have done a Great Job for people like Me who have been visiting Hatyai very often,keep Up the Good Job..🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
@@gayranger7777 Appreciate your kind words. Thanks!
Very interesting keep it up well done. Thanks you
Thanks!
Thanks for the update 👍
Cheers ✌
My pleasure!
Love Hat Yai but visit only rarely from our home in Narathiwat. And when we are in HY, we always stay on the far east side, near PSU.
Great walkthrough of the city center. Keep making these vids!
Thanks for your comment. It helps me to know what people want. I'd like to take a look around Narathiwat one day.
New subscriber, thanks for the video! 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Great intel, tks 👍 I was last there 2mths ago and alrdy there are some changes, the main one being the new Robinsons (previously Central store). I also see that the 7-11 next to Grand Pink (where the busker is) is also open.. that was still closed (IIRC) as of March this year. Might be year-end b4 I'm next in Hat Yai, so yr videos do help in touching base with the place 👌
That's right, that particular 7-Eleven had been closed for a long time. The busker must have distracted me! Thanks for your comment. If I know these videos are useful to people, I can do more.
Hatyai đang làm tốt hơn nhiều thành phố khác trong việc hạ ngầm dây cáp khu vực trung tâm. Đường phố sạch đẹp, thoáng đãng
Google translate: "Hatyai is doing a better job than many other cities in undergrounding cables. The streets are clean, beautiful and airy."
I understand that similar projects are being carried out in other Thai cities as well. The first phase in Hat Yai was done around 2006 and concentrated on the central tourist district around Lee Gardens Plaza. This second phase was along Sripoowanart Road. Hopefully, they will continue with other areas in the future. It makes a big difference!
Hello Phil, thank you for this video which I enjoyed very much. I have not yet been down to Hat Yai but it is definitely on my radar now. I am currently living in the far north, in Chiang Mai, after having spent my first year in Thailand living in Chiang Mai. Because of the terrible pollution during the smokey season, I have decided to relocate south to escape the smoke next year and in the future. I have been trying to find a small house to rent near Chumphon but no luck so far. One of the attractions of the south is obviously the possibility of being near the beach, something that is obviously missing up north. I have heard (on youtube) a lot of positive things about Songkhla and started looking for rental properties there but have not found anything online yet. I watched your video about the house for sale near Hat Yai airport and was curious whether any of those (sorts of) houses are also available for rent?
I think that Hat Yai - as a large commercial city - probably has online estate agents. Chumphon not only has an appealing 1970s feel but is also a bit 1970s so far as the internet is concerned i.e. there is practically nothing online, so I am searching "door to door", in a very old fashioned way :)
(I realise how spoilt we are up north. There are literally hundreds of newly built houses available to rent or buy on the outskirts of the city).
Thanks for your comment! I read a little while ago that the haze in Chiang Mai has been particularly bad this year. It's one of the downsides with living in the north. Indonesia also carries out slash and burn farming techniques. This often affects Singapore and Malaysia, and very occasionally the smog reaches as far north as southern Thailand. I've encountered this twice in Hat Yai in the last 20 years.
It's interesting that you are looking at the south. I always wanted to live in Chiang Rai, but my wife wanted to stay near her family. Last night I was again looking at Chiang Rai on Google Maps with a view to moving. If my daughter goes to Chiang Rai to attend university in the future, this may convince my wife to move. I prefer mountains and rice fields to beaches and islands. I don't dislike it here, but after 20 years in Hat Yai it would be good to have a change of scenery.
Chumpon is a good choice. I went there some years ago for a quick look around and I agree with your assessment of it being less developed than many other parts of Thailand. I like these kind of places. It's fairly easy to get to Bangkok, which is always convenient, and close to the beaches of Hua Hin and Cha-Am. I went out to the beach at Chumpon Cabana and there are miles of deserted beach with no one around. When I went, there was a 'Biker Week' taking place, which I guess might appeal to you!
There are all sorts of property to rent here - detached houses, townhouses, high rise condos, etc. In other parts of Thailand with lots of farangs, such as Chiang Mai, you can expect to be able to find everything online, but that isn't the case here. You can find a few places online, but not many. If someone has a place to rent, they will normally just get signs made and put them in front of the house and stick them on electricity poles in the local area. The signs are in Thai. I have never seen one in English. It will be different in places where there are lots of farang expats, but there aren't many here. "บ้านว่างให้เช่า" - house available to rent.
I rented a house when I got married up until when I bought the place that we live in now. I found it via a handwritten sign on an electricity pole. The best way to find somewhere is to ask locals if they know of anywhere. Book into a hotel for a few days, and then just put on a pair of walking shoes and walk around looking for signs advertising houses for rent.
Songkhla and Hat Yai are closely connected, but very different in terms of character. Hat Yai is very commercial, whereas Songkhla is more laid back. There are lots of government offices in Songkhla, a beach, and an attractive old part of town. It's a nice place for day trips, but I know a South African couple who lived there for a year and then moved to Hat Yai because Songkhla had become boring. Making day trips and short visits to a place is very different to living there. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
Your videos are really good. You capture the atmosphere of Hat Yai so well with your information of past to present. My first visit to Hat Yai was in 2000. I loved it so much that I returned to live there briefly. I was lucky enough to visit Hat Yai for a couple of days in June 2022. It was fantastic to walk around the streets and feel the way I felt all those years ago. Hopefully I can get back there sooner next time.
Thank you! There was a big flood in November 2000, though not as big as the flood in 2010. Did it affect you? As I tried to explain in the video, Hat Yai is still busy - the tourist industry has been busy since they reopened the borders - but the overall character of the town has changed. The opening of Central Festival effectively split everything into two areas, whereas in the past everything was centered around Lee Gardens Plaza. The closing down of the visible commercial sex industry also changed the character of the town. Not that I was a regular customer, but the seedy side of life gave the town an edge, which no longer exists. Also, things like the snake house restaurant, which has now gone. When you saw places like that, you really knew you were in Asia. Everything has been cleaned up, but - similar to Singapore - it can now seem a bit sterile.
Phil, I wasn’t there during the flood. I was back in Melbourne, Australia when that happened. I was in a relationship with a Thai girl at the time who lived in Hat Yai. She was stranded on the second floor of her house for a week or more. Food had to be delivered helicopters and small boats. She sent pics to me at a later date and the images were quite disturbing. I’d never seen flood levels like that in my life. You can imagine the damage done to everything they owned on the first floor. It was my first time abroad back in 2000 and Hat Yai was the first city visited. What an eye opener for a farang having his first overseas trip. I can still remember the heat hitting me in face when I walked out of Hat Yai Airport and into the carpark. The air felt different, the sky looked different, strange smells and the surroundings were something I hadn’t witnessed before. I stayed at the President Hotel for two weeks for 600 baht per night. I used to love watching all the cars, trucks, buses and motorcycles going in and out the huge roundabout in front of the hotel. I used to walk from the President to Lee Gardens and back a fair bit. I remember the heat knocking me about to the point I felt sick in the stomach and needed to get back to the air conditioner of hotel and lie down to recover. My stomach did play up a bit on the first visit. I never had that problem again and could walk around as much as I liked as long as I stayed hydrated. I frequented Lee Gardens, Central Department store, Robinson, Diana, and the old Big C. Can you remember Toscana restaurant ? (I can’t remember where that was situated) I think there was another restaurant I like called Piano near PSU end but the name could be wrong. Jai Lek was another. I’m not much of a drinker but I did sometimes go to Post Laser Disc and Westside. Oh! And the Pub. My greatest enjoyment was the walking around. It gave me an absolute feeling of freedom. My last visit was really enjoyable because I had booked pre covid but had to cancel when the Australian government put a ban on international flights. It was a little different this time around because I found great enjoyment out of a few simple things. I sat on the steps of the disused President Hotel for 30 minutes or so and it really took me back to those early days. An icy cold water in hand and remembering what it was like as a fresh 35 year old falling in love with what was going on around him. I did go to Central Festival but I found it to have very little character. Not like Lee Gardens Plaza back in the early 2000’s. I must admit that I did find it odd when I occasionally came across another farang in Hat Yai back in those days. It was very rare if one would acknowledge me or make an effort to talk. Might be a bit different now because I’m sure more farangs have stumbled across Hat Yai and found it to be quite pleasant. I will go back there but I’m hoping to stay a little longer. My in-laws live in Bangkok which makes it a little difficult to slip away. Anyway, I think your videos are very good and you’re doing such a great job promoting Hat Yai and giving people a great insight of the city. Can’t wait to see your next video. Cheers, Shaun
Oh Phil, raan ahaan R was my go to restaurant. Very cheap! Maybe Cello was the other restaurant I was thinking of. One of my favourite things was going to PSU to kick my Aussie rules football on the field near the entrance. I’d then walk laps of the small lake in PSU for exercise. One very vivid memory of my first visit was when I went to where my girlfriend lived. It was a small village filled with mostly Muslims yet my girlfriend was Buddhist. The roads had a soft sandy surface and all you heard were cows, goats, chooks, frogs croaking, dogs barking and muslins chanting and singing. I felt like I was in a 60 minutes documentary. I guess the people living there never saw a farang in the area so it was nothing for them to simply drop what they were doing and stare at me. I have lots of fond memories of Hat Yai and probably to many things to write about. I’ve been to many parts of Thailand but I’ll always have a soft spot for Hat Yai. Cheers
@@shaunterry1769 Hi Shaun, from what you've written, your first trip to Hat Yai had a big effect on you! Thailand does that to people. I will never forget my first trip back in 1987. The problem now is that I've probably been here too long. The unfamiliar and exciting has become familiar and routine.
When I got to Hat Yai in 2003, the big 2000 flood was still fresh in people's memories. In August 2010 I got married and found a rented house. It was in a bad state, but I did a lot of work and spent quite a lot of money on it. The biggest flood ever to hit Hat Yai arrived in November 2010 and destroyed everything. We had 2 meters of flood water downstairs. Not a great experience.
Post Laser Disc was hugely popular when I first got here. It had got a mention in Lonely Planet and was very popular. At that time, immigration was very lax and lots of farangs lived here permanently just by doing a border run every 30 days. When immigration clamped down, a lot of the farangs moved on and quite a few bars closed. A few years ago the Post stopped doing Western food and now it is fairly quiet. Westside has been closed for a long time.
For the first 6 months I was here, I just walked around to explore my new surroundings. It was a good experience, as you discovered.
At one point I was staying in an apartment building fairly close to the President, but I rarely go to that area nowadays. The original Siam Nakarin store was opposite the hotel and it was like an Aladdin's cave. The new Siam Nakarin building is very different. On one occasion I got permission to go up to roof of the President to take some photos of the big roundabout and the Kor Hong hills.
Farangs don't generally acknowledge one another in Thailand. It's a kind of unwritten law. I'm very wary of farangs in Thailand because there are so many and chancers who don't really have the money to live in Thailand and are here for not very good reasons. I do have a few farang friends, but I'm quite selective about the people I associate with.
Thanks for sharing your memories and thanks for watching!
Being flooded out after the work you put into your house would’ve been devastating. I saw people sweeping water out of their homes last time I was in Hat Yai. There was a huge downpour with massive thunder. The heavy rain lasted around 30 minutes. I was stuck under the shelter of a shop until it backed off enough to continue my walk. A side street was under water after that brief time of rain. People were sweeping the water out only to have go back into their house after cars drove down the street. That’s a part of Hat Yai one must expect I suppose. Were you a teacher early days? I mean you’re not that old and could still be teaching. Oh! Funny you mentioned the roof of the President Hotel. I used to go to the top of it to hang clothes I had washed. A lady working there let me do that. I used the employees lift. I learnt later that a laundry service down the road was charging an insanely low price so I never did my washing again. Thanks for your replies, Phil. I could go on and on about Hat Yai!! I look forward to watching more of your videos in the future.
Shall be here next week. Will check out the roads on my daughters motorbike
The roads are starting to look better already!
Hi Phil ,Glad to see your Hatyai update apparently I am now in Hatyai for 6 days with family of 3 staying in New season square hotel from my point of view I heard from my friends according to them Hatyai has not change much after COVID 19 inevitable shops change hands as a result of poor business but in the evening like today Friday lots of tourists from Malaysian and Singaporean throng the popular lee garden walking street I also observe a lots of massage shops is doing a brisk business especially along lee garden and the shop next to Kan Eng restaurant opposite the large Thai Chinese temple for your infors the exchange rate is one Sing dollar to twenty five point six this exchange rate is about 10 yrs ago not sure is'it the strong dollars or the weak Thai bath impact even the Malaysian ringgit depreciate further over the weeks .
Hello Francis. Nice hotel - I took a look around when it first opened and was quite impressed. I can't believe how many new massage shops have opened recently. You'd think that supply would outstrip demand, but they seem to be doing OK.
Exchange rates have changed enormously in the last 20 years. When I first moved to Asia I was getting almost 75 Baht or 3 SGD to the pound. It's very different now! Enjoy your stay 🙂
Francis, it was great to meet you today! An unexpected surprise, and quite a coincidence. You made a good choice for dinner. There are some good restaurants on Yo island. I actually prefer another place on the other side of the island, but it wasn't my decision today. My wife remarked that Sirada was a little expensive. Our bill was Bt22,000 for 29 people. The food was pretty good, though. Enjoy the rest of your visit!
Hi Phil, Thanks for the updated info on Hatyai City even the weather is so hot. It's nice to see that at least Robinson is now taking over the Central Departmental store, hopefully business is good for them and they will expand to higher floors (just like the old days, pre-Covid time). I didn't see 7-11 open (opposite), I thought they should open it back again as tourist are back now. Agreed that Hatyai has not changed much since 40 years ago except the night life vibes has changed a lot, it is much a shopping destination and food haven now for Malaysian/Singaporean tourists. Will try the Kaitod rice, it looks aroi. Planning to go there end of June and also planning to rent a car for few days to drive around Hatyai (for food, cafe hopping and sightseeing) and also to Songkhla. Any recommendation of good car rental company there. Just wandering whether do I need to pay road side parking around Hatyai City. I noticed that there is no parking meter or parking attendant issuing parking tickets. Thanks again bro. Take care and safe healthy. Cheers!!!
The old Central department store is in a prime location, so it was strange seeing it empty for so long. Someone else, in another comment, mentioned that the 7-Eleven opposite is now open. I did see it, but omitted to mention that it had opened after a long closure. The busker guy was doing his thing in front of 7-Eleven.
You're right, the nightlife vibe has really changed, especially the commercial sex scene. At the start of that walk I went through the New Market area, where there used to be four bathhouse brothels close together. They are all closed now. All the other places also closed several years ago - Chaophaya 4, Pink Lady, Nice Lady, etc etc. That element of Hat Yai's nightlife went to Dannok (although a small part of it still remains) and Hat Yai has become more family friendly.
A car is a good idea. Rental places exist in quite a few places, but most are inside (or just outside) the airport. With the small places, be very careful about insurance. I once hired a car and read the contract after I had returned it. If I had been in an accident I would have been responsible for all the damage to the rental car and other vehicles, all medical bills for any people injured, and I would also have had to pay compensation each day the car was off the road while it was being repaired. For this reason, I would advise using one of the the big, well known companies, and check the insurance very carefully.
On many roads in central Hat Yai, you can only park on one side of the road depending if it is an odd or even date. Of course, the signs telling you about this are all in Thai! I have seen many Malaysian vehicles that have been clamped for failing to observe this law. I don't think the fine is very much - maybe around Bt500 - but you may have to wait a long time for your car to be unclamped. In some areas parking is free, but sometimes you will be approached by a parking warden just after you park and asked for Bt10. There are also car parks underneath some of the department stores. If you buy something in the store and show your receipt on the way out, it is free. Otherwise, you need to pay.
@@expatlivinginthailand Thanks for the advice on car rental in Hatyai, need to look out for the establish one and also the parking condition. That's great the said 7-11 is open.
Yes the weather is really hot. Staying at home or in the mall is the best option. 😊😊👍👍
We've had a bit of rain as well, which cools things down temporarily, but then the heat returns!
Walked round there a few times.
Hope you're well.
Fine thanks, apart from a lot of lethargy recently. Not sure if it's boredom, the heat, age, or something else. Anyway, forced myself to do something today and feel better for it. Hope you're well too!
@@expatlivinginthailand cheers
Well it is too hot at the moment.
It's quite unbearably in Bangkok.
Agreed with u that numbers of massage parlours in Hatyai has increased drastically, out of every five shops is a massage parlour, however the quality of massage is not to the standard 15, 20 years ago. Now out 10 massage u go maybe only 2 is above average as compare to the past 7 out 10 is good. Btw any good massage parlour u strongly recommend within walking distance from Lee Garden?..
It's crazy how many there are, and renting a shop in central HY is very expensive, but they all seem to do OK. The problem with making recommendations is that it depends on the individual girl, rather than the shop. When I was single I went for massages all the time, but these days not too often.
Great video. So many familiar places. I too have fallen in love with Hat Yai. Just recently got my Elite Visa and am now calling Hat Yai my home. So disgusted with the political landscape in the USA. Would still like to meet you to learn more about this city. Maybe one day I'll see you out and about recording a video 🙂
Unbelievable what a mess the current administration is making of the country, but the UK is no better. Better off in Thailand! Last year, I was stopped twice in a week while carrying a camera around. I might see you around!
I lived in Hat Yai in 2005-2006. I wonder if we met :) I bet you know my friend Tom, he was there for a while and a great guy! Is "The Swan" still open? I had a lot of great nights there.
The Swan is still open. I had lunch there a little while ago. They do a pretty good Indian curry!
Was in Hatyai 10-13 May 23. First trip after covid, where I used to visit 3-4 times every year. Sad to see many businesses still struggling and many had closed down particularly eating outlets. In my opinion, Hatyai is still getting tourist from Malaysia and getting popular with Malay and Indians but the Chinese has declined. Was surprise when the waitress demand for tip in เรือนเพชร กะทะร้อน. I'm not sure whether it's a common practice now or they only do it to tourist.
Some businesses have closed, but others seem to be doing very well. Malaysians make up the bulk of the HY tourist trade. I see groups of Indians and Malays, but most still seem to be Chinese. Unlike the US, where a 15% tip is as good as compulsory, tips are still optional in Thailand. Ive noticed that many Thais don't leave tips. I will often tip, but not a huge amount. I've never had a waitress demand a tip, but those massage girls around Lee Gardens can get a bit pushy. The cost of living keeps increasing in Thailand, whereas wages stay the same. This is probably why they are getting more demanding. It was interesting to read your comment.
@@expatlivinginthailand Tipping in eating outlets is Thailand is rare. Normally I just leave small change on the return tray and probably estra THB20 or max 50 if I felt it's really value for money. However tipping is pretty normal in Bangkok nowadays particularly in more posh restaurants.
For massage parlors in Hatyai, I used to tip THB50, 6-10 yrs ago, then increased to THB100, 1-2 yrs before covid - as the massage girls were explaining hard life and low pay, then few places "pressed" for more eg THB150 or more....that's when I stopped going for massage.
Malaysian tourists were badly effected by falling Ringgit vs THB mid 2019. It went to a high THB10 = RM1.38. Covid soften THB to RM1.21 in 3rd Qtr 2022, before it start moving again . Now is it's RM1.32.
For my observation especially Malaysian aged 35 and above, many still have the mentality or impression THB10 = RM1.00, thus whenever they see the price tag, they will divide it with 10, thinking it's still cheap.
Since early last year inflation in Malaysia was pretty high and thus the disposable income has depreciated significantly.
@@boonkhenglim2184 It's an interesting subject. Did you see the tipping scene in Reservoir Dogs?! Many years ago, a Thai told me only to tip if the restaurant had A/C, and only to tip Bt20. It's not a percentage of the bill, as it is in other parts of the world. Many Thais don't tip, but I always feel sorry for the low-paid staff.
I've noticed that in areas where there are lots of tourists, restaurants will add a service charge to the bill. A trick they've learnt from foreigners. If I see this, I won't leave a tip as they have already included it.
I used to tip Bt100 for massage, but in recent years I have only had foot massages and leave around Bt50. In the area away from Lee Gardens they seem satisfied with this amount, but in the Lee Gardens area you get a disgusted look if it is only Bt50.
I appreciate that massage is very cheap in Thailand and that the girls get very low salaries, but that doesn't obligate customers to give much bigger tips to make up for the shortfall. It's not the customers' problem. You always get problems with money in areas where there are lots of tourists. That's one of the reasons why I stay away from tourist areas.
I've been here a long time, and I also have the mentality that 1 MYR = Bt10 because it was that was for a long time, but the fact it's now only Bt7.5 makes a big difference. Inflation is a worldwide problem. Everyone is suffering.
25:32 yellow color of the rice from tumeric used to cooked the Basmati rice.
Thank you! I should have guessed. My wife uses a lot of turmeric when cooking. This turns the food - and everything else - yellow.
This weekend Hatyai will be more crowded with Malaysians than normal due to Hatyai Marathon on this Sunday (28/5) & beginning of School holiday. Malaysian like Hatyai Marathon partly cos of variety foods after the race and more winner prizes for runners with more than 10 different age categories compare to Malaysia which have only four (Men and Women open n senior categories respectively). And also cheap massage for the tired/sored muscles after the race.
Thanks for the info. Sounds good and, as you say, cheap massaged will be very popular after the event. Hopefully, it won't be too hot.
Hi 👋, do you know of any good and nice AirBnB in Hatyai of reasonable price. To accommodate 6 adults.
Thank you.
Sorry, but I've never used AirBnB. I always use Agoda for my accommodation in Thailand.